Chapter M: JOUANNIN and his companion indeed, by all the accounts which I (4)

2d. July. We were obliged to hire our horses from this stage forwards at four _piastres_ each. The master of the _Menzil Khonéh_ assigned as a reason, that this village paid more than others to the _Miri_, and was consequently relieved from the burthen of any stated establishment, and was not required to furnish travellers at the common rate. Notwithstanding therefore all our assertions that we were on the business of government; notwithstanding our _boyouroultee_ or public orders, (and others more immediately from the _Musselim_ of _Carahissar_, in whose jurisdiction the place is) we were obliged to comply. Yet the horses for which we had paid so largely and unusually were too bad to carry us further than twelve miles; we were obliged therefore to unload the baggage, and rest them on a fine pasturage in an open part of the mountains. Our course had been N. 50 W. During our ride we traversed forests of pine trees, (intermixed with hazels, oak-bushes, and a variety of other plants) here and there forming most beautiful pictures. In some places the wood had been burnt down; and the countrymen were ploughing the land between the old trunks, where probably they would sow rye. The people here cut their trees about five feet from the ground, burning them a little, and then applying the hatchet.

3d. We had not however long taken possession of our station, and our cattle had not long indulged on the fat pasture that extended itself around, before a party of armed Turks, some on horseback and some on foot, came to us and desired us to withdraw our horses from the grass, for it was the property of their village. This startled the Persians, who swore that the grass was common property, for that it was the gift of God, and that their horses had as much right to feed upon it as any other: the Turks, however, soon made them understand, that the usages of their several countries differed in this respect: one of them at the same time remarking, “You might as truly say, that corn, goats, cows, and sheep are common property, for they are all, as well as grass, the gifts of God.” The peasants here indeed take much pains with their grass, which they cut and dry into hay, and store up for the winter: whereas in Persia, grass is unappropriated; and even barley is open to the King’s people; for we used to turn our horses into the barley fields, where, in the King’s name and right, they devoured all around, while the poor cultivator did not dare to say a word to us. We were no longer in Persia, and therefore obeyed the summons; and departed an hour after sun-set to seek a fresh pasturage.

We rode for five hours through thick woods of pine trees beautifully enlightened by the moon, which rose an hour after we had mounted. We again stopped, and in a charming valley fed our cattle till morning dawned; when we proceeded, and in four hours reached the village of _Isker Sou_. From the general direction of our road, we averaged probably about N. 70 W. on a distance which might be twenty-seven miles. Three hours before we reached _Isker Sou_ is the large village of _Kizzil Javeran_, high on the mountain on the left; and afterwards on both sides a number of villages, the small wooden houses of which are scattered unconnectedly in various directions on the declivities and summits of the hills. The people build their houses entirely of wood, laying trunks of the pine trees horizontally one over another, and fitting their extremities at the angles by notches and holes. About five miles from _Isker Sou_, on the left of the road, is a rock completely insulated among green fields. The substance is a hard grey granite, in which is excavated, certainly with great labour, a chamber nine feet square, with a seat and two recesses. On the left of the inside on entering is a figure, which, from its resemblance to a Cross, induced me to suppose that the spot, in which it appeared, had been the retreat of some of the primitive Christians.

Our Bosnian Quixote had been missing since the preceding evening; and we felt a general apprehension that he had fallen a prey to the Turks, who warned us from their pasture. He was late in preparing to follow us, was encumbered with two horses, and with trappings so numerous, that notwithstanding his warlike appearance he would have presented an easy conquest to any attack; above all, he was known to carry much gold. But his life was in fact uninjured, and he rejoined us in a subsequent part of our route. The poor creature was now and then wont to sing some of his patriotic songs, which are of a peculiarly doleful and melancholy harmony; and every time he begun his lay it happened that rain fell soon after. I unluckily told the Persians, who were too credulous and superstitious not to believe me, that the singing of the people of _Bosnia_ invariably draws down rain: so that the poor fellow’s strains, whenever he attempted to renew them, were afterwards stopped by the joint force of all his comrades.

The people of _Isker Sou_ informed me, that for six months of the year the snow lies on the ground. The night indeed which we passed in their village was so sensibly cold that all our warmest clothes were brought into use, before we could get ourselves tolerably comfortable. In a general view of our route, I should think that we had been rising for some time. The country was in a state of internal warfare, which however did not interfere with the passage of strangers. In the village there was then from _Janik_ one of JUSUFF PACHA’S _Tuffenchee Bashees_, or captains, who with fifty followers was feeding at the expence of the peasantry. CHAPPAN OGLU was the principal object of terror in the neighbourhood; his troops had lately fired the _Bazar_ of _Niksar_, which is under the jurisdiction of HAZNADAR OGLU, Governor of _Janik_.

4th. of July. From _Isker Sou_ we went to _Niksar_. We were seven hours on the road on a bearing of West, which, from the unequal surface of the country, may be reckoned at twenty-one miles. About one mile and a half from _Isker Sou_ we came to a wooden bridge over a small stream, which is the termination of the Government of _Arz-roum_; when therefore a _Pacha_ is appointed, the ceremony of sacrificing is performed at this spot. After this we passed several villages on all sides, but totally abandoned by their inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the different countries against the depredations of the _Delhis_, and the occasional visits of the soldiers of CHAPPAN OGLU. There is a village immediately at the pass (where we entered the mountains); and here commenced a series of mountain scenery, of the wildest and most romantic character. No description is adequate to paint the brilliancy and luxuriance of vegetation, and the picturesque forms of this region; and few imaginations are sufficiently fertile to supply the idea of a spring in these mountains. Trees of every denomination grow here in the wildest profusion, whilst their roots are embalmed by the odour of myriads of flowers. The oak here is but an indifferent tree; but there are walnut and plane-trees, pines and firs of a fine growth. Yet lovely as the spring was here, the cold on the mountains is said to be intense in winter; and even where we crossed the highest part of the range we were enveloped some time in clouds, which came from the North, and which now and then broke in frequent and sharp showers.

The descent to _Niksar_ continues for three hours, and in some places is rapid. The road winds through the thickest shrubbery, and at its extremity is a collection of lofty plane-trees, which form a fine shade to recruit the traveller after the tedious length of the hills. About an hour before we reached _Niksar_ we discovered the town, situated in a valley, and, in the back-ground, a plain watered by the _Kelki Irmak_, the stream which we had followed under another name near _Carahissar_, and which empties itself into the river of _Amasia_, and thus is carried into the Black Sea. The approaches to _Niksar_ exceeded, if possible, in beauty and rich vegetation those to _Carahissar_. The corn here again was quite ripe, and we got cherries and mulberries.

_Niksar_[44] is a long town crowned by a ruined fort of considerable extent; the walls and towers appear works of the Saracenic age, and at a distance still constitute a picturesque object; though they might now afford but a sorry and impotent defence. A stream from the hills rushes through the valley, and turns the wheels of many mills for cutting the pines into planks. The houses here are no longer terraced; their roofs are mostly of wood, shelving and covered with tiles.

5th. From _Niksar_ to _Tocat_ is nine hours, on a bearing of S. 60 W. a distance which I place at thirty miles. On quitting the town the road continues through a variety of fine landscapes, and then comes to the banks of the _Kelki Irmak_, which here flows from S. to N. After much delay, and an ineffectual attempt to ford, we passed this river in a boat, which could receive at once only a few of our party, and a small portion of our equipage, and which was still more unequal to the numbers of the peasantry crowding into it, anxious to cross the water, with hoes, sickles and spades to their daily labour on the opposite side.

We then traversed a very rich country, the yellow appearance of which announced the approach of harvest. In the plain were large plantations of rice. We now entered the pass between the mountains which leads to _Tocat_, and which here bore W. from _Niksar_. On the right is a small village; the pass then narrows into a road delightfully shaded by a wild profusion of trees, whilst a continual rushing of water over a number of small cascades, refreshes the air, and gives a new charm to the scenery around. At the extremity of this pass are one or two villages; and the road afterwards quits the shade of the trees, and crosses a more open country.

Three hours before we reached _Tocat_, we came to the bed of a river, flowing in the direction of our road, and enlivening a rich country of corn, which was then all ripe. On the right of the road, about four miles before the end of our journey, is a rock with excavated chambers[45]; one of which has an ornamented front. Soon after we had a view of the great town of _Tocat_, situated in the hollow of two mountains, in its first appearance considerably diminished below its real size. As we approached, we crossed the river over a large and solid bridge of five arches; and then came to a paved road, shaded here and there by the foliage of immense walnut-trees. The surrounding territory is very rich in corn, besides a number of enclosures abounding in fruit-trees of every description. We eat here, as at _Carahissar_, the largest and finest cherries that I ever saw.

The _Musselim_ of this place is appointed at _Constantinople_. The person, who at the time of our arrival filled the office, took no part in the quarrels of the chiefs, who were fighting all around him; and seemed indeed to care little about his own government. When it was announced to him that an _Elchee_ from Persia was about visiting his town on the way to the presence of his sovereign, and required his good offices; he said, that the _Elchee_ if he chose might take up his lodgings in a _caravanserai_; that he should have as many horses as he might want to convey him away; but as for the rest, he himself could do nothing more for us. We had hitherto experienced, in general, more hospitality, but we now accordingly took up our quarters in a _caravanserai_ on the _Maidan_, and very conveniently lodged ourselves and cattle.

6th. _Tocat_ is situated on the declivity of three hills, whose bases join. To the Westward it is overlooked by the ruins of a fort, so completely dilapidated, that its remains are scattered unconnectedly over the surface of the rock on which they stand. To the north is a large open spot or _Maidan_; on one side of which is an excellent _caravanserai_ called the _Vaivoda-Khan_, and on the other, a very good and well-built mosque. In the centre of the town there is another mosque of equal beauty. The town is said to contain about twenty thousand houses, or one hundred thousand inhabitants. The _bazars_ here are very numerous, and every thing common to Turkey and its wants seemed to be here in plenty. The Armenian merchants complained to us indeed of the great dearth of trade, and particularly of that part of it which is connected with the mines. Those mines, which are at _Kebban_, eight days journey from _Tocat_, and nearer to _Malatia_ than to any other great town, produce, (besides silver which is sent to _Constantinople_,) between one hundred and one hundred and fifty thousand _okes_ of copper annually, which comes unwrought to _Tocat_, and is there made up in cakes. The works indeed connected with copper, and which occupy about three hundred shops, are the only particular manufactures, for which the town is noted. From these the copper wares are dispersed through all parts of Turkey.

In the evening of the 7th we continued our journey. We left the city on the same road by which we had entered; and, crossing the bridge, traversed a plain about five miles broad and fifteen long, where the harvest was fully ripe, over one of the richest corn countries that can be imagined. The distance of our stage to _Turkhal_ was about twenty-five miles, on a general bearing of W. This large village comes abruptly to the view, and is remarkable principally as being built about a high rock, which stands isolated from the surrounding mountains, and on the extreme summit of which is the ruin of a fort. The village itself extends round the rock to the Westward. The _Tozzan Irmak_ that flows from _Tocat_, passes close to the place from S. to N. At _Turkhal_, though we were housed in a _caravanserai_ (there called _khan_), our expences were defrayed by the _Cazi_ of the place. He had been informed of the treatment which we had received from the _Musselim_ of _Tocat_, and told us that he would spend his hundred purses rather than we should experience a similar reception from his hands. Finding ourselves however uncomfortably situated in the _caravanserai_, (where, besides our baggage and servants, were our horses) we sought refuge in the garden of a hospitable Turk, who permitted us to spread our carpets on a raised platform under a tree, and helped us without limit to the mulberries and apricots which grew around. But we had not sat there long, before we were surprised by a heavy shower of rain and hail, which obliged us once more to retire to our heated _caravanserai_. There are very large water wheels here, which are used for irrigating the gardens and fields of the place, and which are turned by the fine river that runs through the village. Close to the mosque is a large corn mill, which also is worked by two large wheels.

We proceeded from _Turkhal_ in the evening, and travelled for the distance of six hours. On passing through two masses of rock, which in the obscurity of the night were extremely grand, we espied a strong light, illuminating a hut and two or three lofty pine-trees. This was one of the guard-houses, called _durand_, which are stationed at the interval of about four hours, and are common to the territory of CHAPPAN OGLU. They are at once places of security and rest. There is generally a party of eight or ten men kept in them to watch over the safety of the roads. This one, which we were approaching, was peculiarly picturesque. The _Tatars_, the _Mirza_, and I, dismounted from our horses; whilst we permitted the rest of our caravan to proceed. We entered an enclosure of stone-walls, built at the foot of a high pine-tree. In one corner blazed an immense fire. An old Turk, who received us, immediately spread goat’s-skins for our seats; whilst a young man prepared to give us coffee. He first placed the water to boil on the outer-embers of the fire, and then begun to pound the coffee in a wooden vase, which he continued with much activity to a sort of musical stroke, until the whole was beat into an impalpable powder. He then put the pounded coffee into the water, and boiled it up three or four times; when he poured it into his coffee cup, kept neatly bright, on a circular platter. We then resumed our march, and in six hours from _Turkhal_ made a halt at a large _caravanserai_ where we slept in the open air until the morning. The _caravanserai_ was an extensive building, of strong materials and in good repair. Besides ourselves there were many peasants with their carts drawn by buffaloes, who were waiting the dawn of day to proceed on their journey. Our route led over a mountainous country, till we descended towards _Amasia_, through a narrow pass bordered on each side by rocks of a surprising size. The opening was not seen, until we were close upon it, when it formed a beautiful and curious picture. The approaches to _Amasia_ from this side are very striking. On the right is a long chain of heights, which appear in many places to have been worked by the hand of man. Close to the road, and at the foot of these mountains, is a deep channel cut into the rock, which extends at least two miles, and is traced up to the river. It is unquestionably the bed of an aqueduct, and has been the work of immense labour, for the masses, through which in some places it is carried, are of a prodigious thickness.

On the left in the valley below, are detached houses, embosomed in gardens and orchards. These are planted with fruit-trees of every kind, and when we passed, were in full perfection. In this direction the city of _Amasia_ is hardly seen until almost its very entrance. The approach is extremely grand; and every step prepares the stranger for a view which his imagination has already pictured as sublime; and which realizes every expectation.

CHAP. XVIII.

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

AMASIA: EXCAVATIONS--MARCIVAN--OSMANJIK--PRECIPICES: ROAD OF THE GENOESE--TOSIA--THE DELHIS--CHERKES: REMAINS--STORM--GEREDÉH--IMPORTANCE OF THE TATARS--PERSIAN DRESS--INSCRIPTION--BOLI: FOREST: GUARDS OF THE MOUNTAINS: TIMBER FOR THE ARSENALS--LANDSCAPES: KHANDACK; OUTLAWS--SABANJA: CAUSEWAY; LAKE--ISMID--GEVISA--CONSTANTINOPLE.

_Amasia_ is situated in the recess of an amphitheatre of strong featured lands, which arise almost abruptly from the banks of a beautiful stream, the _Tozzan Irmak_, that winds majestically at their roots. The houses are built on either side, on the gradations of the declivities; and the town extends itself all around. On the North, situated in the highest and most conspicuous part of the mountains, is the castle, which appeared to me much in ruins; and on the same portion of land, just upwards from the boundaries of the town, are five very conspicuous monuments cut into the rock. I crossed the river over a stone bridge, and ascended the mountain in which they were excavated, escorted and guided by a young Turk. We passed by the ruins of a fort built upon a projecting part of the range, and came to three excavated chambers. The first has a triangular ornamented front. The others have platforms before them, and a vestibule cut into the rock behind. We then proceeded on towards the left, and arrived at the two largest excavations. A path of about three feet in breadth, cut deep within the front of the mass into the appearance of a covered gallery, and guarded by a parapet wall of solid rock, leads along the side of the mountain. One of these monuments is a mass of hard granite twelve paces square, severed completely from the mountain by an interval (about four feet broad) all around and above it, and excavated into a chamber. The other contiguous and last monument has no passage behind or around. These chambers are said to have been the retreats of ST. CHRYSOSTOM;[46] but I could discover no inscription upon them, which might throw any light upon the subject. In the castle above indeed, my young conductor told me there were not only inscriptions but sculptures; but my time would not permit me to ascend, and I had now only a momentary leisure to enjoy the beauty of the view; where was the town arranged all about me, the river winding at my feet and struggling under numerous water wheels, and the whole scenery enriched by the last rays of the setting sun. The minarets of many mosques, (of which one near the river is a very fine building,) break the sameness of the flat-tiled roofs.

The inhabitants of _Amasia_ are distinguished for their urbanity and attention to strangers; and their women particularly are celebrated as the fairest and most engaging of _Asia Minor_. Of this I had but a single and chance opportunity to form a judgment: in riding through the streets, I saw an unveiled female who was joking at the door of her house with a black slave girl, and who was more beautiful than any whom I had long seen; nor as I passed did she shrink from my observation, for our curiosity was equal. We had a lodging assigned to us in the dwelling of an opulent Turk, close on the banks of the river. He had three brothers who lived in three houses contiguous to his own, and who severally came to pay their respects to us. They were all fairer than any Turks or Asiatics whom I had ever seen. Their manners were peculiarly mild and agreeable, and they treated us with the greatest civility. They spoke in raptures of their own city, although none of them had ever seen any other place.

I was anxious to reach _Constantinople_ as soon as possible, and resolved therefore to leave the Persian Envoy to follow at his leisure, and to proceed myself with increased expedition. Taking fresh horses then, I set off from _Amasia_ at the close of the night. There is an ascent of two hours towards _Marcivan_; and then, as far as I could judge in the dark, the road leads through one uniform plain. The total distance from _Amasia_ is reckoned twelve miles, which we had travelled two hours before the sun rose. [11th.] _Marcivan_ abounds with walnut-trees, and is surrounded by corn fields, which, as we were leaving the place at break of day, were animated by the reapers.

Four hours from _Marcivan_, on the left of the road is the large village of _Haji Kieu_, where the great caravan roads from _Smyrna_, _Angora_, &c. meet. Shortly after we came to a house where travellers usually stop; but the inhabitants had now fled to the mountains, in consequence of the passage of the _Delhis_; and we found only one old man, who brought us some _yaourt_ and cold _pillau_, and some bread that had been concealed. Then again proceeding, we struck into a steep mountain pass, at the foot of which led a torrent strewed with immense fragments of rocks, that (by an earthquake, or by the washing away of the soil beneath them) had been dislodged from the heights around: and vast masses, which seemed to threaten our destruction as we passed, were still sustained only by large poles or trunks of trees.

After this pass we entered into a rich but limited plain, thickly studded with trees of every kind, and abounding in corn. At its extremity we stopped at a delicious grove of immense walnut-trees beautifully watered. In this charming spot was encamped a _bayrack_ or company of soldiers going from _Marcivan_ on their road towards _Constantinople_. The passage of this species of troops is not dreaded by the country, as they are composed of respectable men, who go to the war through a spirit of religion.

From an eminence on the road we first discovered the rock of _Osmanjik_, forming a striking point amid the green and lively scenery of the plain. On this aspect no part of the town of _Osmanjik_ appears, except a few houses on the skirts of the rock. The bridge, indeed, which leads out of the place is a conspicuous object in the view. On a nearer approach, that which at a distance appeared an immense black mass is found to be broken into several detached heights, all of the same species of stone, and all originally connected by the art of man into one impregnable fortress. The walls and turrets, which still cover the various surfaces, appear the remains of Saracenic work. _Osmanjik_ in its present state is only a large village; the distance from _Marcivan_ is reckoned a march of fourteen hours. The plain around is cultivated principally with corn and vines; it is thickly wooded and well watered by the _Kizzil Irmak_, the ancient _Halys_, in its course to the W. The river is a deep yellow bordering on the colour of sand, and very much troubled. We crossed it over a well-built bridge of fourteen arches, the materials of which (still white and fresh) attest that it was a structure of the best times of the Government. Four arches on the left are dry, the earth having encroached upon the bed so substantially, that houses and gardens exist now where the water once flowed.

The passage of the _Delhis_ through this place was marked with peculiar acts of hostility. The inhabitants, who found themselves outraged by their insolence, actually came to blows with them; and, when at length the troops departed, for several days kept closed the wooden gate on their bridge, until the soldiers were completely out of their neighbourhood.

We departed from _Osmanjik_ about an hour before sun-set, and paced the banks of the _Halys_ as far as our next stage _Haji Hamza_, called eight hours from _Osmanjik_. The scenery of the river appears to partake of every quality which can make landscape admirable. Very fine lands rise above it; along which, still following the stream in all its windings, the road is carried, presenting to the travellers at every reach new and striking pictures. Here and there we came to fine collections of walnut-trees; and then crossed large plantations of rice, which, for the facility of irrigation, were situated immediately on the borders of the water. At about two hours from _Osmanjik_ we turned to the left, and ascended a very steep part of the mountains, on a broad paved road, which, as far as the dusk of the evening permitted me to observe, seemed good. On reaching the extreme eminence, I perceived that we were on the brink of an immense precipice, under which the river was winding; and that we were enclosed on all sides by stupendous heights. The obscurity and stillness of the night gave a solemnity to the scene which I cannot describe. We continued along this precipice, viewing the same grandeur of scenery for some time, but in perfect security: for we were travelling on a road of a smooth and easy surface, and guarded on the side of the danger by a parapet wall. My _Janizary_ told me that the road was cut into the vivid rock by the Genoese. He was probably right in the materials, as in the present age nothing but rock would have been in so good order: perhaps he was right also in the founders, to whom he ascribed the original work; but the darkness prevented my forming any judgment of the correctness of his information.

We came to _Haji Hamza_ in the dead of the night. The post-house is on the banks of the river. There are few other habitations, except indeed the fort. We had scarcely taken the rest of an hour, when we were again on our horses, on the road to _Tosia_, called a distance of twelve hours. We came to _Tosia_ about four hours after sun-rise, after having met several caravans, the mules of which were the finest that I had seen in the country. In fact, the mules of Turkey, and particularly in this part of it, are much larger and finer limbed than any of the sort in Persia. So that the _Mirza_, when we were travelling together, was on the point of buying several as a present for the King, declaring that His Majesty had none of equal beauty.

_Tosia_ is a large town situated among beautiful environs on the slope of a hill, and presents itself in its whole extent intermixed with several handsome mosques. The post-house is just on the skirts of the town.

We proceeded from _Tosia_ to _Coja Hissar_, distant eight hours. On leaving _Tosia_ we entered on an amphitheatre of land, rising in gentle acclivities all around, cultivated more richly than I can describe. The bed of the valley was one layer of corn fields, fenced off by hedges of evergreens and fine trees. We then came to large plantations of rice, and extensive tracts of vineyards. The road was beautifully shaded on both sides, until we came to a station of guards of the mountains, where we entered their waste district, and quitted the cultivation. We reached _Coja Hissar_ about three hours before sun-set. I went into the coffee-house attached to the post-house; and after having eat some soup and meat-balls,[47] I laid myself down to sleep. We had heard that two thousand of the _Delhis_ were encamped in the neighbourhood, about two hours distant from the place; and accordingly determined to pass them in the night. Little sleep is necessary to the body: when I was awakened by my _Janizary_, just at the dusk of the evening, I thought that it was the grey of the morning, and that I had slept through the night; and I upbraided him therefore with laziness, for not having proceeded as we had agreed the night before. I felt as refreshed with the three hours rest, as if I had slept undisturbed through a whole night, although I had taken no sleep since I had left _Amasia_, except what had been forced upon me when on my horse. Though sleep will certainly overcome us in defiance of all our efforts, a few minutes suffice; and when the strongest paroxysm is over, refresh indeed as much as hours in bed. We are seldom aware how little food and how little sleep are necessary for health and strength.

When we left _Coja Hissar_ the weather portended a storm. Dark clouds were gathering over the mountains; and as the night closed, we now and then only got a glimpse of a star. This proved very favourable to us, for we had not rode long before we discovered the numerous fires of the _Delhis_ that illuminated the whole of the country to a considerable distance. They were encamped on the opposite side of the river to that on which our road lay, so that guarded by the water and by the darkness, we passed them without being challenged by a single one.

On the 13th, about one o’clock in the morning, we reached _Carajol_, a distance of eight hours; and departed again to _Carajalar_, distant four hours. It is remarkable that the country from _Carajol_ is entirely destitute of trees; losing, as it were by magic, all that variety of foliage which characterizes the preceding region. We were detained at _Carajalar_, from the morning till the evening, by a deficiency of horses. Although we gave five _piastres_ for the hire of each, yet it was not till we had witnessed a scene of strife and contention amongst the villagers, in which there was some blood shed, that we were supplied. The post-house had been broken up for some time past; and the burthen, in consequence fell upon the people, who, in their several turns, furnished the travellers with horses at the rate of five _piastres_ each; though on every emergency there was a similar difficulty to enforce the regular levy in succession. As I was waiting for my horses, a deputation from this village returned, which had been sent to the Chief of the _Delhis_ for the purpose of offering him a certain sum of money, in case he did not remain there with his troops longer than one night. The object was attained, though I could not learn the amount of the stipulated payment. In this manner the _Bey_ commanding the _Delhis_ enriches himself during his march.

At length, after having collected my horses from various quarters, I departed for _Geredéh_, distant sixteen hours. At six hours from _Carajalar_ is a large town called _Cherkes_, situated in a plain, environed by some pretty groupes of trees. It is surrounded by a wall, and on entering one of the gates, I casually observed on the outside a Greek inscription in good character, carved on a stone which formed the lowermost part of the arch. On quitting the place I noticed on the road side, at several intervals, shafts of small columns terminated on either side by a plinth and tores, and apparently erected as monuments in places of burial; for all around were spread other blocks of stone, more obviously designed to cover graves. As the night closed we deviated from the road to avoid _Hamanlee_, the town and fortress of a man (HAJEE AHMET OGLU,) who, being a rebel to the Porte, is always in arms; and whose parties (patroling the hills in watch for his safety) infest the whole country, and sometimes have not spared travellers. Instead, therefore, of ascending the mountain, we turned to the left through a valley. There was every appearance of a storm as the night fell; and our apprehensions were soon realized. We were overtaken in the open country by one of the severest tempests of rain, thunder, and lightning, that I ever witnessed. Our horses refused to proceed, and turned their backs instinctively to the storm. The whole country was lighted by the flashes, which, ceasing at intervals, left us in impenetrable darkness. I can bear witness in this instance to the excellence of English broad cloth, a cloak of which preserved me from the heaviest torrents of rain, whilst my _Janizary_, who had a Turkish cloak made of a species of felt, was drenched from head to foot. After the storm had expended itself, we proceeded, till we reached the skirts of a village, where we fed our horses, and slept for an hour on the wet grass. 14th. The morning broke with unusual splendour, and introduced a most romantic country to us. We had now ascended to a region, the elevation of which was marked very sensibly by the increase of the cold, and by the tardiness of vegetation in comparison to that of the plains below. The peasantry were here ploughing the ground; and some delightful patches of cultivation were interspersed amongst the ranges of pines and other forest trees, that covered the summits and enlivened the declivity of the mountains.

_Geredéh_ is a large town; at the entrance is a very extensive tannery. The shops and coffee-houses of the _bazars_ seemed also well peopled by a great number of well-looking Turks, sitting down and enjoying themselves with their pipes. We had been taught to apprehend here also a second detention for horses, from the great number of _Tatars_ who had been passing. One of them indeed had just preceded us; and had left us a part of his meal of fried eggs and soup. The _Tatars_ look upon themselves as great personages on the road; and expect proportionate attention at the post-houses, which, as I observed, was scarcely ever denied to them. The _Tatar_ who accompanied me was so tenacious of this consequence of his class, that he always took the best things for himself, and treated me as his inferior. Whenever he arrived, a soft seat and a cushion were spread for him, and, as he lighted his pipe, a dish of coffee was prepared for him; whilst to me he transferred an indifferent seat and the second dish. The fact is, indeed, that my appearance bespoke very little of the master; and I could hardly wonder therefore that the _Tatar_ was treated with all the respect which I might have expected as due to myself. My black skin cap was become very dusty; my silk trowsers were all torn; my Persian boots were soaked with rain and twisted under the heel; whilst my coat and great coat were all in dirt and in rags. As I did not wish to travel in my own character, knowing how extravagantly _Frangees_ (and Englishmen in particular) are made to pay, I was well content to pass for a Persian: and the little notice that was thus taken of one looking so miserable, gave me liberty to walk about and make my observations at my ease. Of all this contrast of our appearance however, my _Tatar_ profited; travelling as a gentleman at my expence, whilst I as easily passed for his attendant.

_N^o. 6. From Boli._
_N^o. 1. From Shapour p. 87._
_Two Colossal figures on horseback: figures on the right._
_N^o. 3. Sculptures at Nakshi Rustam p. 127._
_Greek Inscription on the rock under the Horses belly nearly
obliterated: then the following_
_N^o. 2. From the first Sculpture to the N. at Nakshi Rustam p. 126._
_N^o. 4. Inscription on the Windows of the Rock p. 128._
_N^o. 5. Inscription at Mesjed Madré Suleiman, p. 144._

_Published by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
May 1^{st}, 1811._]

From _Geredéh_ to _Boli_ is twelve hours. On quitting _Geredéh_ we crossed one of the most beautiful regions that I had ever seen. It was a continual garden of vineyards and corn-fields, shaded by walnut and oak trees, growing here to a greater size than any that I had hitherto found in the country. At very frequent intervals, on each side of the road, were large collections of blocks of stone, of different shapes, squares, oblongs, and pillars of five or six feet high: several with Greek inscriptions upon them. That these spots were ancient places of burial is more certain, because there are now mixed among them many modern tomb-stones. There are two inscriptions near the _durand_ or guard-house: one, on a column on the left of the road; and one, inserted in a wall on the right. I did not care for the chance of decyphering them to stop the rapid progress of our journey, (for we now went generally on a full gallop;) but on coming up to a very conspicuous pillar on the side of the road near a fountain, I could not neglect the opportunity of copying it, (see plate XXIX.) while our horses were drinking. It was terminated by a cross, which was an evidence that the monument had some connection with the primitive Christians. I wished much to have taken the other inscriptions; as, in general, they seemed legible; but I found that any notice of Greek was incompatible with the character of a Persian, and might have excited a suspicion of my disguise. As we approached _Boli_, the beauty of the country and the richness of cultivation increased. The plain, in which the town is situated, is quite a garden; and was then displaying all the lively green of the height of spring, except where the ripened corn broke in upon the general verdure. The quantity of rain, that had so lately fallen, had left this brilliant freshness on nature; but, even without this extraordinary supply, there is never any dearth of water. _Boli_, on the side by which we approached it, is not seen until we enter its very streets, as it is situated behind a hill. It is a large place surrounded by an open palisade, which indeed is its only defence. From the appearance of the streets and _bazars_ the place is well peopled. As we galloped into the town in the true haste and style of couriers with our _surujees_ (or conductors), making a kind of hideous noise to announce our approach, a company of Turkish soldiers, with colours flying (and preceded by a man beating a sort of little kettle drum tied to his middle) entered at a very slow and admirably-contrasted pace.

We departed from _Boli_ in the evening; and, having quitted its delightful plain, begun to wind among mountains, and entered the large forest to which _Boli_ gives its name. Through the whole there is a fine causeway made by some pious Mussulman[48], which is a sufficient guide to the traveller if he will only follow it through all its windings. The _Tatars_ prefer the side to the road itself; though the path which they thus make for themselves may be full of water and mud. We chose the same, even when it was dark; for of the two evils, the fatigue of wading is less to the horses and mules, than that of scrambling and stumbling over the pavement.

Having rode six hours through the forest we reached a small wooden hut, the station of the guards of the mountains. Here we determined to wait till morning, as my _Tatar_ told me that the forest grew so much thicker as we advanced, that in so dark a night it became dangerous to proceed. We unloaded therefore our baggage, and seated ourselves among a party of a dozen Turks, the chief of whom, a merry fellow, did the honours of his hut very agreeably. He was seated in the corner, and his men were strewed around him on the floor. Pistols, swords and muskets, and every implement of a soldier, were hung along the walls. Whilst the oldest of the party made some coffee for us, the youngest took down a rude guitar from a peg, and broke the stillness of the night by a song, to which he applied the whole force of his lungs, and which did not ill express the wild life of himself and his companions. I attempted to compose myself to sleep in a corner, but the heat of an immense wood-fire had given so much animation and impertinence to the fleas and vermin of the hut, that I was obliged to take refuge in an open shed on the outside, where I slept very soundly till the morning.

15th. As the morning broke, we proceeded on our journey, and penetrated the deeps of the forest. The road, in some of its windings through the rich woodland, presented some of the most fanciful and picturesque landscapes that the imagination of a painter could wish. I remarked some of the finest specimens of ash, elm, plane, poplar, larch and beech; with, now and then, some oaks larger than any that I had ever seen in Asia. This forest, which extends over a vast tract of country[49], supplies an unceasing source of timber to the arsenals of _Constantinople_. Their mode of felling the tree is susceptible of much improvement; for they first burn it towards the root, (by which they injure the finest part of the wood) and then apply the axe. In our progress we overtook immense spars which were dragged by buffaloes, and by slow journies are thus brought to _Constantinople_. Each end is supported on a light carriage of two wheels; but it requires all the prodigious strength of the buffaloe (and no other animal is equal to the attempt) to be able to cope with the difficulties which the extreme badness of the roads in the rainy season presents. We heard the howling of wolves all around us; and their great numbers are sometimes fatal to those travellers, who risk themselves at night through the wilds of the forest.

_Khandak_, our next stage, twelve miles from _Boli_, is famed for the ferocity and wild freedom of its inhabitants. It is a village situated in the very heart of the forest, and its first appearance presents all the beauty that an intermixture of wood, water, cultivation, and buildings can combine. The low houses, with their shelving roofs nicely tiled, at the foot of lofty trees, (with partial openings here and there, where murmured a stream of pure water); still more enlivened by the most picturesque looking men and women, really formed a landscape which a CLAUDE, a HOBBIMA, or a RUYSDAEL would have envied. We soon discovered however the temper of the inhabitants: all the men and even boys of ten years old, wore a brace of pistols, and a large knife in their girdles; and displayed countenances more expressive of savage hardihood than I recollect to have ever seen. This horde of desperadoes is extremely obnoxious to the Porte; but, entrenched in their woods, they bid defiance to _firmans_ or _Capidgi Bashees_. Within these few years (and the fresh appearance of the houses attests the fact) an officer from _Constantinople_ was sent with a large body of men to surprise the inhabitants, and either to destroy them or take them prisoners; but they had notice of the design, and fled into the fastnesses of the woods, leaving their homes as the prey of the invaders, who immediately burnt them to the ground, destroying all the poor creatures that happened to fall into their way. No sooner however had the troops of the Porte quitted the territory than the natives returned, cleared away the smoking rubbish, and rebuilt their houses, as if nothing had happened.

16th. We were here obliged to pay five _piastres_ a horse to proceed to _Sabanja_, distant twelve hours. As we departed from _Khandak_, the road begun gradually to open, and presented to us extensive tracts of cultivation. We came to a long causeway of wood, formed indeed only of trees thrown across and so completely out of repair, that we passed it in many places at the hazard of our lives. At its termination (several hours from _Khandak_) there is a wooden bridge of considerable extent, but a part of it had fallen; and we were obliged therefore to ford the river over which it is built, and which was broad but not deep or rapid, although much rain had lately fallen. We followed a cart dragged by buffaloes across the stream, and got in safety over it. After the passage of the river we reached the borders of the beautiful lake of _Sabanja_, surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery; its distant mountains and waters dying away in the softest tints on the horizon. We traversed its shores for nearly three hours, passing lands the fine projections and woods of which reflected in the water below the most beautiful pictures.

_Sabanja_ is a place situated in a very thick wood, and notorious equally for the impudence and the independance of its inhabitants. We were not long detained at the post-house; and departed for _Ismid_, hoping to reach it before the close of night, as the road was reported unsafe after a certain hour. Although it was too dark to analyse the beauties of the plain towards _Ismid_, yet the general outline of the country was sufficiently discernible to impress me with an idea of its beauty and magnificence: and something also I gained by the solemn and dubious light of evening, as it softened and harmonized the whole landscape.

It was, however, entirely dark when we crossed the long causeway that leads into _Ismid_. The plain was here and there illumined by the fires of the caravans that had encamped for the night. We put up at the coffee-house adjacent to the post, and early in the morning departed for _Gevisa_, distant nine hours. _Ismid_ is a large town most delightfully situated on the declivity of the mountain bordering on the branch of the sea, that forms its deep and beautiful gulph. In my rapid progress I could just ascertain that the place contained some well-built houses, and some in situations that must have commanded fine and extensive views of all its scenery. The water is so girt around with high mountains that it appears a great lake; but the imagination is soon undeceived by remarking the large boats which navigate it, and which I soon recognized to be those of _Constantinople_ and the _Bosphorus_. My anxiety to reach the end of my journey was now increased; and I stopped not to examine the antiquities of _Ismid_.[50]

At about four hours from _Ismid_, having in many parts of the road paced the shores of the sea, we reached a small village situated on the very borders of it. Here were passage-boats to _Constantinople_, and many persons were going. I preferred, however, the surer route, and continued with my post-horses to _Gevisa_, ascending a steep road near an old and ruined fortification.

_Gevisa_ is a small town with a good mosque and neat minarets nicely white-washed. The country around it was little cultivated and less wooded, so that it excited in me no other interest than that which its vicinity to the capital might give. Yet, in any other circumstances than those of my eagerness to reach _Constantinople_, I should not have overlooked the delight of searching for the tomb of HANNIBAL. I now however, made every haste to get to _Scutari_ before dark, but I did not succeed, and was obliged to pass the night in a coffee-house on the borders of the _Bosphorus_.

The next morning, the 18th July 1809, I crossed from _Scutari_, and took up my abode in _Pera_, having completed the journey from _Teheran_ in two months and ten days, in which time I had not once slept out of my clothes.

CHAP. XIX.