Chapter I: Persia--Administration of the (2)

On Sunday the 18th, when I had performed divine service in the Envoy’s tent, we paid a visit of ceremony to MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN. According to the fashion of the country, we proceeded on horseback, although his tent was within a stone’s throw. We were met by one of his officers, and an escort of ten men, who made their obeisance to the Envoy, and preceded his horse, until we arrived at the door, where the _Khan_ himself was waiting. He received us most graciously, and after we had pulled off our boots and shoes, and Sir HARFORD and the _Khan_ had gone through some little polite difficulties about their seats, we finally settled ourselves on chairs prepared for us. The _Khan’s_ tent was very neat, and appeared to us a most desirable residence. It had a large exterior covering, and close to the extremity a wall all round; and in the interior, there was a clean little recess closely covered with carpets, and lined with the finest chintz, the borders of which were adorned with a broad fringe. Our host was a man of great notoriety both in Persia and in India; his manners were greatly in his favour, and he was dressed more like a noble than any other man whom I had yet seen in the country. His beard presented no plebeian roughness, and the dagger in his girdle glittered with precious stones. When the usual compliments had been severally paid, that silence of solemnity, which generally marks the visits of form, succeeded, till the _kaleoons_, or water pipes, were introduced to our relief. The coffees and sherbets followed, and the whole entertainment concluded with a course of sweetmeats, which was brought upon separate trays, each serving two guests. The only unsatisfactory part of the visit was the intended politeness of two lusty attendants, who broke some of the sweetmeats in their suspicious hands, blew the dust off the fragments with their more suspicious mouths, and then laid them before us. After a washing of hands, (in which we felt the full want of towels), and a parting _kaleoon_, we took our leave, and left the Envoy to a private conference with the _Khan_.

The trays, from which we eat, had the appearance of silver, though I understood afterwards that they were plated only. They were neatly carved in flowers and other ornaments. The articles which they contained were made of almonds, pistachio nuts, and a paste of sugar; others were like our alicampane and barley sugar, and all were very nice. The Persians are almost indescribably fond of sweetmeats, which they eat in very great quantities. The abundance indeed of fruits and sherbets presented daily to the Envoy by the _Mehmandar_, proved the immense supply which the taste of the country demanded. The presents were arranged prettily in trays and boxes, and carried in great form on the heads of servants, but they were less acceptable, because for each the conductor required a present in money. By such means the great men in Persia pay their servants, who in general receive no other wages. The person, therefore, to whom such an office as that of _Mehmandar_ is entrusted, is, of course, surrounded by hordes of adherents, who are allured by receipts so certain and valuable.

The new Governor had consulted the astrologers of _Bushire_ to determine the most propitious time for his entrance into the town, which, by their predictions, was at three hours before sun-set on the 19th. In conformity therefore to the decision, he was now delaying his advance till the happier period should arrive. When, on a former occasion, he was departing from _Bushire_ to embark on board the ship, which was to carry him on his mission to _Calcutta_, he was ordered by these astrologers (as the only means of counteracting the influence of a certain evil star) to go out of his house in a particular aspect: as unfortunately there happened to be no door in that direction, he caused a hole to be made in the wall, and thus made his exit.

In the evening we dined with _Mahomed Nebee Khan_. We did not go till the _Khan_ had sent to the Envoy to say, that the entertainment was ready for his reception, a custom always observed on such occasions.[26] When we arrived at his tent, the same ceremonies passed as in the morning, except that we sat upon the ground, where the inflexibility of our knees rendered the position more difficult than can be described. The _Khan_, who seemed to commiserate the tightness of our pantaloons, begged that we would extend our legs at their full length: fearing, however, to be rude, we chose to be uncomfortable, and to imitate their fashion as faithfully as possible; and really, with respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried further. The guests besides ourselves, were our _Mehmandar_ and the Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation: in talking of the admirable skill with which the guns of the _Nereide_ were fired in the re-capture of the _Sylph_, the _Mehmandar_ said to the Secretary, “you ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution was so effectual; and walked around and around them, and in gratitude for your deliverance, to have put up prayers to Heaven for their preservation and prosperity.”

After having sat some time _kaleoons_ were brought in, then coffee, then _kaleoons_, then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of sugar and rose-water); and then _kaleoons_ again. All this was rapidly performed, when the _Khan_ called for dinner. On the ground before us was spread the _sofra_, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very savory smell; but the Persians are content, for they say that changing the _sofra_ brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest; on these trays were three fine china bowls, which were filled with sherbets; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite species of lemonade. There were besides, fruits ready cut, plates with elegant little arrangements of sweetmeats and confectionary, and smaller cups of sweet sherbet; the whole of which were placed most symetrically, and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In the vases of sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep bowls, and worked so delicately, that the long handle just slightly bent when it was carried to the mouth. The _pillaus_ succeeded, three of which were placed before each two guests; one of plain rice called the _chillo_, one made of mutton with raisins and almonds, the other of a fowl, with rich spices and plumbs. To this were added various dishes with rich sauces, and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce. Their cooking, indeed, is mostly composed of sweets. The business of eating was a pleasure to the Persians, but it was misery to us. They comfortably advanced their chins close to the dishes, and commodiously scooped the rice or other victuals into their mouths, with three fingers and the thumb of their right hand; but in vain did we attempt to approach the dish: our tight-kneed breeches, and all the ligaments and buttons of our dress, forbade us; and we were forced to manage as well as we could, fragments of meat and rice falling through our fingers all around us. When we were all satisfied, dinner was carried away with the same state in which it was brought: the servant who officiated, dropping himself gracefully on one knee, as he carried away the trays, and passing them expertly over his head with both his hands, extended to the lacquey, who was ready behind to carry them off. We were treated with more _kaleoons_ after dinner, and then departed to our beds.

On the morning of the 19th, the camp broke up at sun-rise. We took a hasty breakfast in the Envoy’s tent, but a visit from MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN (which was preceded by a present of two horses and his own sword) kept us on the ground till nine o’clock. The _Khan_, with all his attendants, accompanied us about two miles. He was preparing to enter _Bushire_, his new government, with all splendour. From the town to the swamps were erected stages on which bullocks were to be sacrificed, and from which their heads were to be thrown under his horse’s feet, as he advanced; a ceremony indeed appropriated to Princes alone, and to them, only on particular occasions. Yet, however anxious originally for his station, and however splendid in his present appearances, he felt the full dangers of his pre-eminence, and betrayed an absence and uneasiness in his words and actions, which to us evinced all his apprehensions. He was so conscious indeed of the difficulties of his situation, that he had transmitted to the King a present of two thousand _tomauns_, with a memorial, beseeching to be excused from his government.

We marched at first north-westerly, till we came to the bed of a river, or rather of a mountain-torrent, in which the actual stream of water when we passed, was not above ten feet in breadth, though the channel itself was perhaps thirty yards. It falls into the sea in a due E. and W. direction.

At two o’clock we came to _Ahmadiéh_: at half past two we passed a small fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were waiting our passage.[27] They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks, swords and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then advanced to us, and being announced by the _Arz-beg_, wished us a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility, “_khosh amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded, our party was headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us, until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army who were waiting our reception at _Borazjoon_: these also fired their muskets.

From _Khosh Aub_ to _Borazjoon_ the ground appeared cultivated; and as we were approaching the latter village, we saw some of the peasants, who, after having finished their toil in the fields were walking home with their ploughs over their shoulders. I think we may fairly reckon at twenty-five miles the distance from _Alichangee_ to _Borazjoon_: the Persians call it nine _fursungs_. The avenues to _Borazjoon_ are through plantations of date and tamarisk trees: the village is a collection of huts, which surround a fort; and the fort, like the rest of those which I had seen, was a square, with turrets at each corner, which were cut into small chequers at the top. There are the ruins of many small forts all over the _Dashtistan_, which were built by some unsuccessful rebel, and which were left to decay as soon as he was quelled. I understand that the population of this district has been decreasing ever since the happy days of SHEIK NASR. Almost the whole of its geography present places which have names, but no inhabitants; or if there are any, they are the refuse only of former more flourishing families.

In our road to-day, we saw immense flights of the _toowee_, or desert partridge, and some ravens. The _Mehmandar_ and the oldest of our _moonshees_ amused themselves in scouring the plains, and playing at the dangerous game of the _girid_, in which the old scribe got a severe blow. The Persians ride with great courage, for they drive their horses at their greatest speed over any ground. They of course get frequent falls, by which they are seldom much injured; for though they generally alight on their heads, they are there saved by their immense sheep-skin caps.[28]

It was a quarter past eight before we mounted our horses on the morning of the 21st, and ten minutes past twelve when we arrived at _Daulakee_, a distance called four _fursungs_, and which may be computed at about twelve road miles. The site of _Daulakee_ is marked by a break in the mountains, where the road which leads among them commences. It bore N. 30 E. when we mounted. Our road was much broken by the beds of numerous torrents, which, after the rain and melted snows, fall from the adjacent mountains. We here and there met with small encampments of the _Elauts_. They appear like the _Turcomans_, whom I have so frequently seen at _Smyrna_, and through the whole of Asia Minor. At the distance of two miles we were met by the _Istakball_, who fired their salute, and frightened the horses as before. This ceremony was repeated every day, so that a repetition of the description will not be always necessary. They were all arranged on a rising ground, at the foot of which ran a stream of mineral water, of a most sulphureous smell. Further on we crossed other streams of the same quality; the heat of one of which, as it gushed from under the rocks, was almost scalding. We brought home specimens of the incrustation which the spray of the bubbles left on the surrounding rocks. The bed of the stream was mostly of the colour of sulphur, although there were patches here and there of a copper hue. Still a little further on, on the left of the road, are two springs of naptha. The oil swims on the surface of the water, and the peasantry take it off with a branch of date tree, and collect it into small holes around the spring ready for their immediate use. They daub the camels all over with it in the spring, which preserves their coats, and prevents a disease in the skin, which is common to them.

The huts in the village of _Daulakee_, as we rode through it, appeared mostly to be covered on the tops with the entwined leaves of their date trees, while the better houses are built of mud, and terraced. The mosque was the most creditable building that met our eye in the whole place: its interior seemed neatly arranged in arches, and preserved clean with a white stucco. There was a little bath at the extremity of the town. The customary fort (for such are found in most of these villages) was situated in the middle of the huts, at the top of which many an eager Persian was perched. This place, and indeed all we had seen, presented a picture of poverty stronger than words can express. There was nothing but what mere existence required; nor to our very cursory observation did the most trifling superfluity shew itself.

The river that runs by _Daulakee_ meanders through the plain which we had passed. All the mineral streams, which crossed our road, fall into it, and renders its waters salt and brackish. The soil itself indeed, at the roots of the mountains, is, in some places, saturated with a nitrous acid, of which, in the neighbourhood of _Daulakee_, the people make a pleasant beverage. In one of the recesses of the mountains, however, there is a stream of pure and delicious water. In the evening I walked to the spring, which is embosomed in date trees: it is beautifully clear, and rather tepid. Its short course down into the plain is marked by a wood, which more immediately flourishes under its influence, and follows its progress. In the lower country there is an extensive tract covered with date trees, and forming a mass of verdure on which the eye delights to rest after the constant glare of an arid desert. It is extraordinary how vegetation thrives in this country, wherever there is the least water. It is, indeed, a general rule, that wherever they can irrigate they can produce vegetation; and indeed with no other moisture than the dews, and the few occasional showers of the winter, the plain of _Bushire_ (which all observers have agreed to call a barren land) produces one hundred for seven. The rude manner of cultivation here is sufficient to display the intrinsic goodness of the soil; for they just sprinkle with seed the spot marked out for the plough, then make the superficial furrows, and obtain most abundant crops.

We mounted this morning at eight o’clock, and arrived at our encampment at ten minutes before one. It is called four _fursungs_, but we compute it at sixteen miles. We soon entered the mountains, and followed the road through them to the Eastward. We came to the river (which in its lower course passes near _Daulakee_) at half past nine o’clock: we crossed it a second time about a quarter of an hour after, and at ten o’clock passed it for the third and last time, at a ruined bridge, of a structure which had once been neat. After hard rains its bed is very extensive, and its current most rapid: so that it entirely impedes the passage of travellers and caravans. At the fords where we crossed, it was a very fine stream up to the bellies of our horses. After that, we paced its banks, for the distance perhaps of half a mile, in a S. E. direction. We saw it for the last time winding on a southern course, when we had ascended an elevated peak of the _Cotul_ range. We gained this summit at half past eleven; the road then continued through the mountains till twelve o’clock, when we came on the plain of _Khisht_. At ten minutes before one we reached our encampment. The extreme capriciousness of the windings of the road, rendered it almost an impossible task to ascertain the ultimate and exact direction of our bearing from _Daulakee_ to _Khisht_. However it was evident, that we had made a great deal of Easting, with a little Northing. The mountains rose around in most fantastical forms, their strata having their highest elevation towards the South, forming a dip of perhaps forty-five degrees. The soil is mostly of a soft crumbling stone, large fragments of which seemed just balancing at the brink of the precipice above, and appearing to require only a touch to impel them into the great chasms below. The passage of the river by our numerous party, and the winding of the horsemen and loaded mules in the mountain-passes, animated the whole of the dreary scenery around into the most romantic pictures. The only verdure which cheered the sameness of the glaring yellow of the mountain, was that of a few wild almond trees.

Before we ascended to the plains of _Khisht_, a long string of matchlock men and horsemen (the _Istakball_) who came out to meet the Envoy, appeared on the brink of the precipice above us. As we ascended they fired a volley, the sound of which returned in repeated echoes through the mountains; and when we came into the midst of them, the horsemen begun their gambols; moving around us in all directions, stopping their horses, couching their long lances, throwing them, and then again galloping forwards. The footmen with their matchlocks made a charge into the plain, shouting as they advanced, as a representation perhaps of the ardour of their attack in real combat. When we approached our encampment, we were met by the Governor of _Khisht_ himself, ZAUL KHAN, a man of remarkable appearance, without eyes, and with the fragment of a tongue, the rest of which he had forfeited during the troubles of Persia. He came riding on a mule conducted by a young Persian. But the most extraordinary part of his history is, that, notwithstanding his tongue is cut, he still talks intelligibly. Before, indeed, this operation was performed, he had such an impediment in his speech, that he was scarcely able to make himself understood; but the mutilation was fortunate, and his articulation has been improved. This the Envoy, who had known him before the punishment, avers.

The plain of _Khisht_ seems to form a complete oval, and presented stronger marks of cultivation than any part of the _Dashtistan_ which we had seen. The _Konar_ bushes were thickly sprinkled by the roadside, and apparently all over the plain, besides plantations of date trees. At _Konar-a-Tackta_ (a village four miles and a half from _Khisht_, and the place where we encamped,) there is a _Caravanserai_, which has lately been erected by one of the wives of _Zaul Khan_, and is really a neat and commodious building. An arched gateway introduces the traveller into a square yard, around which are rooms, and behind which are stables. There is also a small suite of rooms over the gateway. In the centre of the court is an elevated platform, the roof of a subterraneous chamber called a _zeera zemeon_, whither travellers retire during the great heats of the summer, and which in those heats is a very refreshing habitation. Behind the building is a tank or reservoir for rain-water, which has newly been added, and is not indeed yet finished. The whole forms an establishment most acceptable to travellers, and worthy of the Persian governments of a better age.

On the 23d we rose before the sun, and though in a region so much more elevated than the one in which we were on the preceding day, the temperature of the atmosphere seemed the same. The sky was clouded all over, and some predicted rain. One of our _moonshees_, who was considered an astrologer, told me that, according to his observations, “it would rain, _if God pleased_.” However, the day passed without rain, and the opinion of the astrologer was, at any rate, equally indisputable.

The trumpet, the signal for departure, sounded at twenty minutes before eight, and we went off with the usual clatter and parade. The course of the road bore N. E.: but when we had rode for about four miles its direction was nearly due East. In an hour after our departure we came to the banks of a river, which is the same that, flowing by _Zeira_, falls into the _Daulakee_ river at _Deerooga_, and which, according to my information, takes its rise in the mountains near _Shapour_. Immediately on coming on its banks we began to wind through the difficult passes of the mountains, which in various parts are very dangerous. The Arab horses, who had been accustomed to the equal surface of their own sandy plains, trode the rocky sides of the mountains with fearful and uncertain steps, and one or two of the most valuable of the Envoy’s stud suffered by severe falls: the Persian horses, on the contrary, scramble over the threatening eminences, and confidently walk by the sides of the precipices with an indifference, which gives an equal consciousness of security to their riders. Our _Mehmandar_, by way of bravado, urged his horse over a rocky heap, which appeared almost as the feat of a madman.

There were some particular points of view in our progress, that were picturesque and grand in the extreme. The path wound so fantastically along the side of the mountain, that those who were yet at the bottom saw the whole surface intersected by the ranges of our procession; and the travellers at the upper point appeared so diminutive, that man and brute could scarcely be distinguished from each other. Just before we reached the very highest top of the mountain we came to a station of _Rhadars_, and to the dwelling of a _derveish_, which was formed in the crevice of a rock. In parts of our route we saw the _Rodo-dendron_, one of the strongest symptoms of the change of our climate. We reached our encampment at twenty minutes past eleven, and we found it pitched near a _Caravanserai_. The village of _Khaumauridge_ is situated on a small plain, and is distant about a mile N. 20 W. from the _Caravanserai_. On an eminence over us was a small tower, where a rebel stood a long siege.

The mountains through which we passed were infested by a race of robbers called the _Memméh Sunni_. They live in the deepest recesses of their wild valleys, and commit their depredations on the unguarded travellers with an impunity quite characteristic of the state of the country. Although some attempts have occasionally been made to terrify them into submission, by inflicting the severest tortures on the few individuals who have chanced to be caught, yet the example has been lost on the living, and the love of independence and plunder has outweighed the terrors of barbarous punishment and ignominious death. The abrupt formation of their mountain haunts (labyrinths to those who have not long practised them,) favours this community so materially, that instances have been known of their having snatched from the very centre of a caravan, some traveller who promised less resistance than his companions, or some well loaded mule, that seemed to announce more booty than others. When Brigadier-General MALCOLM went through their mountains on a former mission, the robbers bore off some of his mules which carried part of the rich presents destined for the King of Persia. So firmly are they now established in their fastnesses, that the neighbouring _Khans_ and Governors of districts have chosen, since the evil itself was inevitable, to take a part in its advantages, and, it is said, maintain their own agents amongst the _Memméh Sunni_, with whom they have stipulated agreements about the fruits of their plunder. They happened to be less predatory at the time of our passage, and we proceeded through the mountains without the least molestation.

The _Caravanserai_ close to our encampment was a solid, though rather ancient structure, and the walls, scribbled over with names or couplets, attested the passage of frequent travellers. We saw a cock blackbird, and Sir HARFORD fired three times on a thrush, which, notwithstanding, kept its ground, until it was taken up in the hand, and indeed permitted itself to be taken up frequently without offering to fly away.

A road is making at the sole expence of HAJEE MAHOMED HASSAN, a merchant and inhabitant of _Bushire_, which will cut through the mountains from _Kauzeroon_ to _Khaumauridge_, and shorten the distance two _fursungs_. Its direction bore E. from us at _Khaumauridge_.

On the 24th our march commenced at eight, and we arrived at _Kauzeroon_ at half past two. We were about one hour pacing the plain of _Khaumauridge_, and, allowing one mile for the other extremity, (which we had passed on the preceding day) we may fairly calculate its whole length at five miles. Its opening towards _Kauzeroon_ is through a pass called the _Tengui Turkoun_, between two high branches of the mountains. There is besides a road to the left, which leads over the mountain, and which the Envoy and some of the party took, because the pass is very famous for the attacks of the robbers. The road was, however, guarded at different stations by matchlock men, who had been placed there by the direction of the Prince, which was one of the numerous instances of his great attention to the mission.

Having descended once again, we came into the plains of _Kauzeroon_. From the eminence we perceived the river, which we had passed near _Khisht_, winding in a N. and S. direction behind the western hills. The city of _Shapour_ we just discovered at the foot of a mountain, then bearing N. 50 E. Hills of very subordinate elevation run out from the great range of mountains, and leave here and there little plains which are all comprehended under the name of the plain of _Kauzeroon_.

We were met at _Derees_ by a great crowd, who gambolled and saluted as usual. As we passed between the huts, the women of the village were collected on the roofs, and greeted our approach by a loud and tremendous species of song, which yet at a distance was not disagreeable. Money was thrown amongst the crowd, which added much to the confusion of the scene, and excited a most active and querulous scramble.

About two miles from _Kauzeroon_ we were met by MAHOMED KOULI KHAN, the Governor of that place, who was attended by a numerous company of horsemen. Mr. BRUCE, Dr. JUKES, and myself dismounted to pay him the usual compliment, and he then turned back with us to his own town. About a mile further, almost the whole male population was collected to meet us. A bottle, which contained sugar-candy, was broken under the feet of the Envoy’s horse, a ceremony never practised in Persia to any but to royal personages; and then about thirty wrestlers, in party-coloured breeches, (their only covering) and armed with a pair of clubs called _meals_, begun each to make the most curious noise, move in the most extravagant postures, and display their professional exploits all the way before our horses, until we reached our encampment. It would be difficult to describe a crowd so wild and confused. The extreme jolting, running, pushing, and scrambling almost bewildered me: while the dust, which seemed to powder the beards of the Persians, nearly suffocated us all. Probably ten thousand persons of all descriptions were assembled. Officers were dispersed among them, and with whips and sticks drove the crowd backwards or forwards, as the occasion required. Nothing could exceed the tumult and cries. Here men were tumbling one over the other in the inequalities of the ground; there horses were galloping in every direction, while their riders were performing feats with their long spears; behind was an impenetrable crowd; before us were the wrestlers dancing about to the sound of three copper drums, and twirling round their clubs. On every side was noise and confusion. This ceremony is never practised but to princes of the blood, and we considered, therefore, the honours of this day as a further proof of the reviving influence of the English name.

On Christmas day Sir HARFORD JONES and I visited the ruins of _Shapour_. We reckoned the distance at fifteen miles, in nearly a north direction from _Kauzeroon_. About seven miles from our encampment, we passed again through the village of _Derees_, which, from the extent of the ruined houses, must once have been a large town. Every house is covered with an arched roof, a mode of building which probably originated in the scarcity of timber. It is indeed common in all the places which we have seen; and the doors and porticoes are universally formed by a Saracenic arch. A miserable population, thinly interspersed among the ruins of _Derees_, came out to greet our passage. On the northern extremity of the town there is a place of burial, and over one of the tomb-stones there was the figure of a lion.

After having passed two tombs, one on the right side and one on the left of the road, we came to the bed of a torrent, over which there seems to have been built an aqueduct; for, on either side of its banks, are the remains of masonry, and the trace of its conduit is perceived on the southern bank. The extent of the ruins of _Shapour_ to the southward is marked by a beautiful stream of water. Over the spring, from which it issues, the road is built, sustained by fragments of architecture, which are a part of the entablature of some public building, and by their dimensions must have appertained to a very considerable edifice.

Immediately after having passed this spring we came upon the ruins of _Shapour_.[29] When standing on an eminence we computed the whole to be comprised, on a rough calculation, within a circumference of six miles. This circumference enclosed a tract of plain, and a hill on which the remains of the ancient citadel formed a conspicuous and commanding object. Whether by a mere caprice of nature, or whether by the labour of man, this hill or _Acropolis_ is distinctly separated from the great range of mountains, forming the Eastern boundary of the plain of _Kauzeroon_. Between this and another imposing mass of rock runs the beautiful river of _Shapour_: we reckoned the space between the two rocks at thirty yards, which formed a little plain of verdure and shrubbery, intersected indeed by the stream of the river.[30] The opening betwixt the two grand masses presented a landscape the most varied, the most tranquil, the most picturesque, and, at the same time, the most sublime that imagination can form. A black and stupendous rock (the strata of which were thrown into strong and wild positions, and formed an acute angle with the horizon) flanked the right of the picture: whilst another still more extraordinary rock, as richly illumined as the other was darkened, supported the left. Between both a distant range of mountains, whose roots were terminated by a plain, filled up the interstice, forming a fine aerial perspective; whilst the river and its rich shrubbery completed a most enlivening fore-ground. The hill, on which the remains of the citadel stand, is covered with the ruins of walls and turrets. On its eastern aspect, the nature of the fortification can be traced easily; for walls fill the chasms from rock to rock, forming altogether a place of defence admirably strong.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

The first object which arrested our attention, was a mutilated sculpture of two colossal figures on horseback, carved on the superfices of the rock. The figure on the right was the most injured; the only part indeed, which we could ascertain with precision, was one of the front and two of the hinder feet of a horse, standing over the statue of a man, who was extended at his full length, his face turning outwardly, and reposed upon his right hand, and his attire bearing marks of a Roman costume. A figure in the same dress was placed in an attitude of supplication at the horse’s knees, and a head in alto-relievo just appeared between the hinder feet. The equestrian figure on the left was not quite so much mutilated, the horse and parts of the drapery on the thighs being still well preserved. The dimensions of the figures are as follows: length of the foot of the figure under the horse, fifteen inches; length of the whole figure sixteen feet one inch; length of the arm five feet; chin to the summit of the head one foot two inches; length of the horse’s leg from the lower part of the shoulder to the hoof four feet four; the dress of the figures was a short petticoat, from the waist downwards just below the knees.

The next piece of sculpture (which, like the former, was carved upon the mountain of the citadel), is perfect in all its parts. It consists of three grand compartments, the central and most interesting represents a figure on horseback, whose dress announces a royal personage. His head-dress is a crown, on which is placed a globe; his hair flows in very large and massy curls over both shoulders, whilst a slight mustachio just covers his upper lip, and gives much expression to a countenance strongly indicative of pride and majesty. His body is clothed with a robe which falls in many folds to his girdle, and then extends itself over his thigh and legs as low as his ancle. A quiver hangs by his side; in his right hand he holds the hand of a figure behind him, which stands so as to cover the whole hind quarter of his horse, and which is dressed in the Roman tunic and helmet. A figure, habited also in the Roman costume, is on its knees before the head of the horse, with its hands extended, and with a face betraying entreaty. Under the feet of the horse is another figure extended, in the same attire and character as that of the other two Roman figures. To the right of the tablet stands a figure (behind that in a suppliant attitude) with his hands also extended, but dressed in a different manner, and, as far as we could judge, with features more Egyptian than European. In the angle between the king’s head and the horse’s is a Victory displaying the scroll of Fame. A figure (part of which is concealed by the one on its knees) completes the whole of this division. (Plate X.) The second grand compartment, which is on the right, is divided again into six sub-compartments; in each of these are carved three figures, the costumes and general physiognomies of which are all different. They appear mostly in postures of supplication; and, I should suspect, are representations of vanquished people. On the left, in the third grand compartment, are two rows of horsemen divided by one line into two smaller compartments. They all have the same characteristic dress and features as the royal figure in the centre, and certainly represent his forces. The whole of this most interesting monument is sculptured on a very hard rock, which bears the finest polish, and which we pronounced to be a coarse species of jasper. The shortness of our stay did not afford me an opportunity of delineating the detail of the many figures, which have been so faithfully pourtrayed. The artist has preserved so much distinction in the countenances and features of the different characters brought together in this groupe, that, if their respective countries could be ascertained, (and study and close investigation would probably secure the discovery) some important point of ancient history would be elucidated by an evidence as ingenious as it would be convincing. The dimensions we took are as follows: figures on foot, height five feet nine inches; figures on horseback from the rider’s cap to the horse’s hoofs six feet five inches: the minor tablets are four feet ten inches in length; the grand tablet eleven feet eleven inches.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq.^r_
_Published by Mess.^{rs} Longman Hurst Rees Orme & Brown Paternoster
Row May 1., 1811._]

Having examined these, we next crossed the river to the sculptures on the opposite rock. The first is a long tablet, containing a multitude of figures. The principal person, (who is certainly the King represented in the former tablet) is placed in the very centre of the piece, alone in a small compartment, and is seated with a sword placed betwixt his legs, on the pummel of which rests his left hand. It is a most ridiculous object, with a head swelled by a singular wig to an immense circumference. On his right, on the uppermost of two long slips, are many men who seem to be a mixture of Persians and Romans; the former are conducting the latter as prisoners. Under these in the lower slip are others, who by their wigs appear to be Persians: their leader bears a human head in both hands, and extends it towards the central figure. On the left are four small compartments; the first (nearest that figure, and the highest from the ground) incloses a crowd of men whose arms are placed over one another’s shoulders. Below these are five figures, one of whom leads a horse without any more furniture than a bridle. The two other compartments are filled up with eight figures each. We considered this to represent, in general, a king seated in his room of audience surrounded by his own people, and by nations tributary to him. The length is eleven yards four inches.

On the left of this were two colossal figures on horseback, carved in an alto relievo. The one to the right had all the dress, character and features of the King above described; the other, on the left, appeared also a royal personage, but differing in dress, and in the furniture of his horse. Both had their hands extended, and held a ring, which we conceived to be emblematical of peace. The Envoy, who had seen both these remains and _Nakshi Rustam_, prepared me to expect a similar sculpture at the latter: and as I had not leisure to detail all the subjects of _Shapour_, I preferred to delineate those, of which no other specimen might exist, and therefore proceeded in our general examination. I must not however omit to say, that the sculpture of these two figures was exquisite; the proportions and anatomy of both horses and men were accurately preserved, so that the very veins and arteries in the horses’ legs and belly were most delicately delineated.

Walking forwards we came to a very extensive piece of sculpture, the lower parts of which were entirely destroyed. We saw, however, on the right, a row of camels’ and men’s heads intermixed; and under them a row of horses’ and men’s heads, which were demolished from the horse’s eye downwards. In front of these, at the distance of about four feet, was part of a figure on a horse, the King as before, holding a bow and four arrows in his right hand. We supposed that this might be the commencement of a hunting piece. [Plate XI.]

Our research terminated in a most perfect sculpture: the extreme interest of which only increased our regret, that the shortness of our time would not allow us to give it all the observation and study which it required. This piece contained a greater number of objects than any of the others, and a much greater diversity of characters. The surface of the rock is here divided into a variety of unequal compartments, all of which are occupied by a multitude of figures. In the middle, is a rather reduced copy of the second relievo which I have described (that of the King and the suppliant) except that, facing the King there is an additional personage with a hand extended holding a ring. In the first row, at the top on the right, are a number of slight figures with their arms folded. The second is filled with a crowd, of which some carry baskets. The third is equally covered; and in the right corner there is a man conducting a lion by a chain. In the fourth, and just opposite to the King, is a very remarkable groupe, whose loose and folded dresses denote Indians: one leads a horse, whose furniture I have drawn with some care, and behind the horse is an elephant. Under this, and close to the ground, are men in a Roman costume; amongst them is a chariot to which two horses are harnessed; this also I have exactly delineated.[31] In five compartments on the left (corresponding with those on the right) are placed thick squadrons of Persian cavalry, all in a regular and military order, marshalled as it were in echelon. Fourteen yards was the length of the whole sculpture from point to point.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq.^r_
_Published by Mess.^{rs} Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row May 1, 1811._]

_Drawn by James Morier Esq.^r_
_Published by Mess.^{rs} Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

The path that conducted us round to these beautiful monuments, is the course of an aqueduct, which appeared to be of more modern workmanship. Bordering on the road which winds behind the hill of the citadel, are numerous canals of water, formed most artificially and closely cemented with _darna_. Besides these, there are very deep wells, in parts of which the channels of the aqueduct are seen to pass. After having repassed the river, we walked over the numerous mounds of stones and earth which cover the ruined buildings of _Shapour_, and which, if ever explored, would discover innumerable secrets of antiquity. We were conducted by the peasants who were with us, to the remains of a very fine wall, which in the symmetry of its masonry equalled any Grecian work that I have ever seen. Each stone was four feet long, twenty-seven inches thick, and cut to the finest angles. This wall formed the front to a square building, the area of which is fifty-five feet. At the top were placed sphinxes couchant, a circumstance which we ascertained from discovering accidentally two eyes and a mutilated foot at the extremity of one of the upper stones. In this wall there is a window, which is arched by the formation of its upper stone. Behind this square building, we traced most correctly the configuration of a theatre, thirty paces in length, and fourteen in breadth. The place resembled at least those called theatres which I have seen in Greece. From a comparison of their positions, we were led to suppose that the building still extant must have been connected with the other behind it, and may have formed perhaps the entrance to it. [Plate XIII.]

There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of _Kauzeroon_ relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at _Shapour_, and connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of the least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had advanced some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his fears appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself however so far as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he found a sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock. As a measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would require twenty _mauns_ of oil, (a _maun_ is seven pounds and a quarter) to light any one through all their intricacies.

The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and about the surrounding plain, were the _palma christi_, _rodo-dendron_, the willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call _shauk-a-booz_, and _caveer_, reeds, and _benak_ or spice plant. The plain towards _Shapour_ is much more cultivated than towards _Kauzeroon_, and is intersected by a variety of small artificial channels, which receive their supplies from the river. The river itself is a stream of very fine water, but after having run for about eighteen miles, it meets with a bed of salt among the mountains, which renders its waters in its farther progress towards the sea quite salt.

After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we returned to _Kauzeroon_. This town covers a large extent of country, but its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green spot near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees, and belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted and stuccoed, with painted glass windows; and after having so long roamed over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to meet with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.[32] The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate.

We set off at eight o’clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived at our encampment in the valley of _Abdoui_, at half past twelve. The road led by the walls of _Kauzeroon_, and through the plain, until we came to a causeway called the _Poul-aub-guinee_, which is reckoned two _fursungs_ from _Kauzeroon_. From this spot (which is a swamp forming the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind up a high mountain called the _Dockter_ or “Daughter.” Over this, in the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and parapet walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the precipices, which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road. Formerly this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and ingenuity of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary to conduct their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that the driver, when his mule was about descending a very steep part of the pass, would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold it fast, until the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when again he helped it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety. We reached the summit of the _Dockter_ at about half past ten, and from thence we marched over a better road, until we descended into the small and beautiful valley of _Abdoui_. It is thickly covered with oak trees, which, though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a verdant and refreshing spot.

Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one of his old Persian friends MAHOMED REZA KHAN was about to meet him on his route; that he was the bearer of good news, and would therefore demand his _moodjdéhlook_, the customary present. The news was the defeat of the Russians at _Erivan_, whose loss in killed and prisoners amounted, according to the Persian’s report, to six thousand men. A _firman_ from the King was also announced to be at this time on the road for the Envoy.

Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning of the 27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain, perhaps four miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of the _Peera zun_, or “Old Woman,” a mountain, the greatest height of which formed the termination of our several ascents. We were at the top at twelve o’clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain of _Desht-e-arjun_, at the north extremity of which is situated the village of the same name. Before we entered it, we were met by MAHOMED REZA KHAN, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court of _Shiraz_, and who received our compliments on the success of the Persian arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we were met by the _istakball_, which was like all the others, excepting that it was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass, who was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile from the village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs as at _Derees_, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees, watered by a fine gushing spring.

The plain itself is swampy; but the heights which bound it are all of a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innumerable, ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant, and rendered the plain of _Desht-e-arjun_ one of the most delightful spots which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are in summer covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just peeping out of the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed the mountains; for we had scarcely reached our encampment, when thick clouds covered their summits, and here and there left extensive layers of snow.

On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke up; we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued all the road in the same region as the plain of _Desht-e-arjun_, nor do I think that any very considerable descent had brought us much below the summit of the _Peera Zun_. The people of the country reckon _Khoné Zenioun_ colder than _Desht-e-arjun_, and indeed than any other habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At _Khoné Zenioun_ there is only a _Caravanserai_; near it a small stream runs to the Eastward; we came to its banks at half past ten o’clock, but did not cross it till close under the walls of the _Caravanserai_.