Chapter IV (2)

On the writer’s visit to Arbroath, in the end of March, he was anxious to land upon the Bell Rock, to ascertain the precise state of the Beacon, after the storms of the winter, that he might be enabled to judge of the propriety of converting it into a habitable place for the artificers during the working season. He accordingly sailed from Arbroath on the 30th current, at 1 A. M. in the Light-house Yacht. The wind was from E.NE., but the weather, though cold, was upon the whole favourable for the trip. At 7 the Floating-light was hailed, and all on board found to be well. It was now unfortunately too late in the tide for landing upon the rock this morning; and it became necessary to cruise about till the following day, there being at this season only one tide with daylight. In the mean time, in sailing round the rock, just as it was beginning to be covered with the tide, the base of the Beacon was distinctly seen between the rolling seas, which broke upon it; while at the top, the flag-staff proudly continued to surmount the whole.

[Sidenote: Floating-Light.]

In the course of the day the writer examined the Floating-light, where every thing connected with the security of the vessel, and her moorings, was in good order. What seemed chiefly to please Mr Wilson the commander, was a late improvement in the application of a winch, with wheel and pinion fixed at the break of the quarter-deck, which was now employed to great advantage in working the cable with stoppers as on board of war-ships, the hempen cable, forming part of her moorings, being too thick and unwieldy for _holding-on_ by hand. The vessel’s manner of riding during some late gales was described as having been very difficult, and even alarming at times; but it was nevertheless, added, that nothing had been felt so severely as the gale of the 6th and 7th of September last, when the writer was on board.

[Sidenote: The crew spend their time happily.]

The crew were observed to have a very healthy-like appearance, and looked better than at the close of the works upon the rock. They seemed only to regret one thing, which was the secession of their cook, Thomas Elliot,--not on account of his professional skill, but for his facetious and curious manner. Elliot had something peculiar in his history, and was reported by his comrades to have seen better days. He was, however, happy with his situation on board of the Floating-light, and, having a taste for music, dancing, and acting plays, he contributed much to the amusement of the ship’s company, in their dreary abode during the winter months. He had also recommended himself to their notice as a good shipkeeper, for as it did not answer Elliot to go often ashore, he had always given up his turn of leave to his neighbours. At his own desire, he was at length paid off, when he had a considerable balance of wages to receive, which he said would be sufficient to carry him to the West Indies, and he accordingly took leave of the light-house service.

[Sidenote: The Light is comparatively feeble.]

Mr John Reid, the principal light-keeper, stated, that every thing specially connected with his department on board, answered its purpose to his entire satisfaction. In stormy weather, however, when the ship rolled much, great difficulty was experienced in trimming the lights, which often required the assistance of all hands. In the course of this night’s cruise, the writer had a good opportunity of observing the lights at different distances from the vessel. Even at the distance of two or three leagues, it appeared feeble, compared with a regular reflecting-light. It was also upon the whole so unsteady, from the rolling motion of the ship, that, in running for it, mariners could never venture to make very free with their course.

[Sidenote: Landing at the rock found difficult.]

At day-break, on the following morning, the Light-house Yacht, attended by a boat from the Floating-light, again stood towards the Bell Rock. On coming within a proper distance of it, the usual tools carried by the artificers on such occasions were put into this boat, and every thing was got into a state of readiness for making an attempt to land. The weather felt extremely cold this morning, the thermometer being at 34 degrees, with the wind at east, accompanied by occasional showers of snow, and the marine barometer indicated 29.80. At half-past 7, the sea ran with such force upon the rock, that it seemed doubtful if a landing could be effected. At half-past 8, when it was fairly above water, the writer took his place in the Floating-light’s boat with the artificers, while the Yacht’s boat followed, according to the general rule of having two boats afloat in landing expeditions of this kind, that in case of accident to one boat, the other might assist. After several unsuccessful attempts, the boats for a time were beat back by the breach of the sea upon the rock. On the eastern side, it separated into two distinct waves, which came with a sweep round to the western side where they met; and at the instant of their confluence, the water rose in spray to a considerable height. Watching what the sailors term a _smooth_, we caught a favourable opportunity, and in a very dexterous manner the boats were rowed between the two seas, and made a favourable landing at the western creek.

[Sidenote: State of the Beacon.]

At the latter end of last season, as was formerly noticed, the Beacon was painted white, and from the bleaching of the weather and the sprays of the sea, the upper parts were kept clean; but within the range of the tide, the principal beams were observed to be thickly coated with a green stuff, the conferva of botanists. Notwithstanding the intrusion of these works, which had formerly banished the numerous seals that played about the rock, they were now seen in great numbers, having been in an almost undisturbed state for six months. It had now also, for the first time, got some inhabitants of the feathered tribe: in particular the Scarth or Cormorant, and the large Herring-gull, had made the Beacon a resting-place, from its vicinity to their fishing grounds. About a dozen of these birds had rested upon the cross beams, which, in some places, were coated with their dung; and their flight, as the boats approached, was a very unlooked for indication of life and habitation on the Bell Rock, conveying the momentary idea of the conversion of this fatal rock, from being a terror to the mariner, into a residence of man, and a safe-guard to shipping.

[Sidenote: Propriety of converting it into a Barrack.]

Upon narrowly examining all the parts of the Beacon, then in the state represented in Plate VIII., and especially the great iron stanchions with which the beams were fixed to the rock, the writer had the satisfaction of finding that there was not the least appearance of working or shifting at any of the joints or places of connection; and excepting the loosening of the bracing-chains, every thing was found in the same entire state in which it had been left in the month of October. This, in the estimation of the writer, was a matter of no small importance to the future success of the work. He, from that moment, saw the practicability and propriety of fitting up the beacon, not only as a place of refuge in case of accident to the boats in landing, but as a residence for the artificers during the working months. With a view to this, he determined on the entire removal of the bracing-chains, which, in general, were either so relaxed or loosened by the unlocking of the screws, the stretching of the links, or the drawing of the chain-bats, from the tremulous motion of the beacon, as to be comparatively of little use. Measures were therefore taken for procuring great iron-bars to fix in a horizontal position between each pair of the principal beams, at the height of about 8 feet from the rock, as the best means of strengthening them.

[Sidenote: Bread and water chest.]

Having made these remarks upon the lower parts of the beacon, and its connection with the rock, the writer ascended to the higher parts, where he had also the satisfaction to find that the fixtures of the cross beams were in the same good condition. Upon looking into the bread and water-chest fixed on the top, in case of accident to the boats, or in the event of shipwreck upon the Bell Rock, the sea-biscuits which had been carefully put into a tin cannister, were in good order; but, in the compartment of the chest allotted for water, the fragments of several of the quart bottles in which it was contained were found, which had probably burst with the freezing of the water, for it can hardly be supposed to have arisen from the shaking or tremulous motion of the beacon; be this as it may, only twelve of the eighteen bottles remained entire.

[Sidenote: Advantages of the Beacon in its present state.]

While upon the top of the beacon, the writer was reminded by the Landing-master, that the sea was running high, and that it would be necessary to set off while the rock afforded any thing like shelter to the boats, which, by this time, had been made fast by a long line to the Beacon, and rode with much agitation, each requiring two men with boat-hooks to keep them from striking each other, or from ranging up against the beacon. But even under these circumstances, the greatest confidence was felt by every one, from the security afforded by this temporary erection. For, supposing that the wind had suddenly encreased to a gale, and that it had been found unadvisable to go into the boats; or, supposing they had drifted or sprung a leak from striking upon the rocks; in any of these possible and not at all improbable cases, those who might thus have been left upon the rock had now something to lay hold of, and, though occupying this dreary habitation of the sea-gull and cormorant, affording only bread and water, yet _life_ would be preserved, and, under all such circumstances, the mind would still be supported, by the hope of being ultimately relieved. After, with some difficulty, getting off the Beacon, a proper time was again watched, and, by active rowing, the boats soon cleared the Rock in safety, though not without shipping two or three pretty heavy seas. About 12 noon the Light-house Yacht bore away, and at 7 in the evening she reached the Bay of Arbroath, where the writer landed about 8 P. M., and on the following day returned to Edinburgh.

[Sidenote: Impress Service, how it affected the Bell Rock operations.]

The Impress Service--that much-to-be-regretted system--being in great activity, not only at the larger ports, but, owing to the pressure of the war with France and the Northern Powers, orders having likewise been issued for the establishment of an Impress at Dundee, Arbroath and Aberdeen, it became necessary to be doubly careful in obtaining protections for all our seamen. There being now five vessels employed in the service of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, including the Bell Rock craft, a requisition was accordingly made to the Admiralty for a protection for 35 seamen, which was readily granted. In so far as the liberty of the subject is infringed by the impress service, its existence is much to be regretted; but, in regard to the works in question, it had the effect of rendering them popular, instead of their being shunned by seamen, which might otherwise have been the case.

[Sidenote: Protection Medal.]

As the impress officers were extremely rigid in the execution of their duty, it became necessary to have the seamen carefully identified; and, therefore, besides being described in the usual manner in the Protection-bills, which, agreeably to the Admiralty regulations, must always remain on board of the respective ships for which they are granted, it was found advisable to give each man a ticket, descriptive of his person, to which was attached a silver medal emblematical of the Light-house service, as represented in Plate XII. On the one side of this medal was the figure of the Bell Rock Light-house, and on the other, the word ‘Medal,’ referring to the Admiralty Protection, and a description of the person by the Engineer. The following is a copy of the ticket of one of our best seamen.

[Sidenote: 1808, April.]

[Sidenote: Protection Ticket.]

“_Bell Rock Work-yard, Arbroath, 31st March 1808._

“John Pratt, seaman in the service of the Honourable the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, aged 35 years, 5 feet 8
inches high, black complexion, and slightly marked with the small-pox.

“ROBERT STEVENSON, “_Engineer for Northern Light-houses_.”

OBVERSE.

“The bearer John Pratt, is serving on board of the Sir Joseph
Banks Tender and Craft, employed at the erection of the Bell Rock
Light-house.

The signature of the Master of the Tender, “DAVID TAYLOR.

The signature of the bearer, “JOHN PRATT.”

These tickets were found to be indispensably necessary in the Light-house service, as it was impossible that every man, or even each boat’s crew, could carry the ship’s protection about with them. But the check afforded by the several signatures as noted above, was generally respected by the Impress officers.

[Sidenote: Light-house Yacht again visits the Rock.]

Directions having been given in the month of March for tightening the bracing-chains, and fixing certain ring-bolts, both at the eastern and western landing places of the rock, for the conveniency of the boats, the Light-house Yacht again sailed on the 12th of April, carrying off artificers and all necessaries for the service. After accomplishing this duty she returned to Arbroath on the 14th, and in this state things remained till the commencement of the works in the month of May.

[Sidenote: Preparatory state of the Works.]

The several implements already alluded to and described, were in a state of great forwardness about the close of the winter, having been prepared in Edinburgh, under the immediate directions of the writer. At Aberdeen, Mr Alexander Gildowie, stone-agent, used every exertion to procure an additional supply of granite from Rubislaw and other quarries. But the severity of the winter was such as to prevent much progress from being made. At Mylnefield Quarry, owing to the liability of that stone to board or split in frosty weather, from its lying in regular strata, by which moisture is more readily absorbed and acted upon in the laminæ, the operations had been entirely suspended for several months.

[Sidenote: Use of Granite restricted to the lower courses.]

In the month of April, the writer visited the works at Arbroath, which he found still in a much retarded state, for want of a regular supply of granite. Owing to this, it had not as yet been possible to complete even one entire course of the building, although the figure and dimensions of the moulds had been repeatedly altered to accommodate the quarries. It had already become apparent, that the works would unavoidably be stopped, if the whole of the outward casing were to consist of granite. In order, therefore, to avoid a circumstance which might prove hazardous to the whole operations, the Light-house Board resolved to restrict the use of this material to the lower courses of the building.

[Sidenote: Use of Sandstone extended.]

It having thus been found necessary to lessen the quantity of granite at the Bell Rock, and proportionally to encrease the quantity of sandstone, a new engagement was entered into with the proprietor of Mylnefield, for an additional supply, at the rate of one shilling and sixpence _per_ cubic foot, put free on board. On visiting this quarry in the month of April, the writer had assurance of being largely supplied with stone, if a greater range or variety in the thickness of the courses were allowed. This, however desirable, was altogether impossible, in so far as regarded the lower courses; the thickness of which could only be regulated piecemeal, as the dimensions of the granite stones could be determined.

[Sidenote: Mr Skene’s contract to supply Granite.]

Every exertion had already been made on the part of Mr Skene of Rubislaw, who had entered into a contract with the Light-house Board to supply granite, at the rate of one shilling and threepence per cubic foot, for the use of the Bell Rock,--having been chiefly induced to enter into this contract, on account of the celebrity of the work;--but after furnishing a few of the lower courses, he found that he could not implement his agreement without incurring considerable loss, and running the risk of retarding the building: he therefore applied to be relieved of his contract. From the commencement of the work, Mr Skene had, with much liberality, stated, that in case the quarries upon his estate should be found defective in producing the necessary size and quantity of materials, his contract should never be allowed to form any bar or stoppage to the Commissioners in applying to others. This had accordingly been acted upon by the Stone-agent; but after making every exertion for the space of about 12 months, he had been able to procure only a few additional blocks of the requisite dimensions, even with the range of all the quarries of Aberdeen, besides those of Rubislaw. The price of suitable blocks had, in the mean time, advanced to three shillings and threepence, and even to five shillings per cubic foot. At the commencement of the Bell Rock works, the quarries of Aberdeen were chiefly worked for paving-stones, and for common house purposes, and were consequently unprovided with implements or tools suitable either for working or transporting stones of large dimensions, for which they had hitherto had no regular demand.

[Sidenote: He is remunerated for loss.]

Mr Skene having sustained considerable pecuniary loss, in opening additional quarries for the Light-house, he had certain claims upon the Board, which were remitted to Mr Kennedy, advocate, of Aberdeen, upon whose opinion and report remuneration was made to the extent of about L. 370.

[Sidenote: The Sir Joseph Banks takes the station of the Light-house Yacht.]

The Light-house Yacht being employed in the general service of the Northern Light-houses, she left the Bell Rock on the 16th of April, to load stores at Leith. But the Sir Joseph Banks Tender being now completely equipped, she sailed to supply her station, for the first time, on the 20th of May, having on board several sets of moorings for the use of the vessels in attendance at the Rock. The mushroom-anchors of these moorings weighed about one ton each, and had about thirty-two fathoms of chain attached to them, which was made from iron, measuring seven-eighths of an inch in thickness. These moorings were laid down in fourteen fathoms water, at about 200 fathoms apart, on a rocky bottom, and at the distance of about a quarter of a mile on the north-western side of the Rock, as will be seen from Plate V. After completing this operation, and supplying the Floating-light with necessaries, the Tender returned to Arbroath previously to the commencement of the operations at the Rock for the season.

[Sidenote: 1808, May.]

[Sidenote: Wednesday 25th.]

[Sidenote: The writer begins the operations of the season.]

In the month of May, the number of artificers in the work-yard, consisting of masons, smiths, mill-wrights, joiners and labourers, amounted to sixty. On the 25th, the writer embarked at Arbroath, on board of the Sir Joseph Banks, for the Bell Rock, accompanied by Mr Logan _senior_, foreman-builder, with twelve masons, and two smiths, together with thirteen seamen, including the master, mate and steward. The vessel sailed at 3 o’clock P. M., under a salute of three hearty cheers from a great assemblage of people on the quays; but before getting to the Rock, it was too late for making fast to the moorings that night; and she kept cruising about, with the Floating-light in view, which proved a great comfort to the seamen, in directing them to tack the ship, before she got too near the Rock.

On this occasion, the prospects of the writer were very different from the state of things upon his sailing to commence the last year’s operations, when much doubt and uncertainty attended every step. The experience of last season, together with the facility and confidence afforded by the erection of the Beacon, which had withstood the storms of a winter, together with the use of a new Tender, which could now be moored so near to the Rock as to be perfectly convenient for the boats, and was at the same time capable of being cast loose from her moorings, to take the people on board on any emergency;--these circumstances gave a degree of security and promptitude to the work, which relieved all concerned of much anxiety.

[Sidenote: Thursday 26th.]

The wind to-day was at south-east, and though the weather was not very pleasant, yet it was moderate. Mr James Wilson, now Commander of the Pharos Floating-light, and Landing-master, in the room of Mr Sinclair, who had left the service, came into the writer’s cabin this morning at 6 o’clock, and intimated that there was a good appearance of landing on the rock. The bell being accordingly rung, the boats were hoisted out, and at half-past 7 the artificers were seated and arranged by the landing-master in their respective boats, who, with the foreman-builder, went into the boat on the _off-side_, while the writer steered the one on the side of the ship next to the Rock. Every thing being arranged, both boats proceeded in company, and at 8 A. M. they reached the Rock. The light-house colours were immediately hoisted upon the flag-staff of the Beacon, a compliment which was duly returned by the tender and floating-light, when three hearty cheers were given, and a glass of rum was served out to all hands, to drink success to the operations of 1808.

[Sidenote: State of the Bell Rock after the storms of winter.]

When the writer made a landing here, in the month of March, he was so entirely occupied in examining all the parts of the Beacon, that little attention was paid to the general appearance of the Rock. Its surface was now found to be covered with a new crop of _Fuci_, where it had been destroyed and rubbed off in the course of the last season. Even the iron work, and lower parts of the Beacon, and the site of the foundation of the Light-house, where it had been dressed and worked with the pick, was now also thickly coated with a species of _Conferva_, of a deep green colour, resembling very fine grass where the water had left it, while in the pools it had the most beautiful arborescent appearance. The limpets and white bucky were, as formerly, in considerable numbers, and the barnacle had coated all the higher parts of the rock, giving it a whitish appearance. On the extreme points, a few detached clusters of mussels were seen, of a very diminutive size, varying from a quarter to half an inch in length. The six blocks of granite, which had been landed as an experiment on the 1st of September 1807, were now scattered about in different directions, covered with the delicate looking plant above described. The general aspect of the rock remained otherwise unaltered.

[Sidenote: State of the Foundation-pit.]

The north-western half of the site of the building being higher than the other, it had, in the course of last season, been wrought down to a regular surface; but the other half contained depressions or holes, varying in depth from six inches to no less than three feet. By 8 o’clock the tide had left the higher parts of the foundation dry, when it appeared from observation, that the water ebbed at the rate of one inch in two minutes and thirty seconds, and that the difference of the perpendicular height, between the lowest and highest parts of the foundation-pit, at the commencement of the works this season, was still about four feet. After having been an hour and three quarters at work, the water began to overflow the site of the building, when the boats left the rock, the landing-master taking the lead; but after getting clear, he waited, agreeably to usual practice, till the other boat got out of the creek, when both proceeded for the Tender.

[Sidenote: Landing attended with considerable difficulty.]

In the evening tide the artificers landed at a quarter past 7, though the sea ran pretty high, and the boats shipped a good deal of water. Being rather early in the tide for working at the site of the building, the time was occupied in getting the smith’s forge put in order upon the cross-beams of the Beacon, a step of great importance to the future progress and advancement of the work. At half-past 7, the higher parts of the foundation being left dry, a few of the artificers set to work, the others beginning as the water went off. At half-past 9 the tide again overflowed the rock, when the boats left it, after the artificers had been two hours at work. In coming out at the eastern creek this evening, the landing-master’s boat was struck by a heavy sea, and thrown to one side of the creek; but, by his dextrous management, the boat’s head was fortunately kept seaward, and she got out in safety, though not without having shipped a good deal of water.

[Sidenote: Friday, 27th.]

This morning the wind was at east, blowing a fresh gale, the weather being hazy, with a considerable breach of sea setting in upon the rock. The morning-bell was therefore rung, in some doubt as to the practicability of making a landing. After allowing the Rock to get fully up, or to be sufficiently left by the tide, that the boats might have some shelter from the range of the sea, they proceeded at 8 A. M., and upon the whole made a pretty good landing; and after two hours and three quarters’ work returned to the ship in safety.

[Sidenote: Found necessary still to excavate to the depth of fourteen inches.]

In the afternoon the wind considerably increased, and as a pretty heavy sea was still running, the Tender rode very hard, when Mr Taylor, the commander, found it necessary to take in the bowsprit, and strike the fore and main top-masts, that she might ride more easily. After consulting about the state of the weather, it was resolved to leave the artificers on board this evening, and carry only the smiths to the Rock, as the sharpening of the irons was rather behind, from their being so much broken and blunted, by the hard and tough nature of the rock, which became much more compact and hard as the depth of excavation was increased. Besides avoiding the risk of encumbering the boats with a number of men, who had not yet got the full command of the oar in a breach of sea, the writer had another motive for leaving them behind. He wanted to examine the site of the building without interruption, and to take the comparative levels of the different inequalities of its area; and as it would have been painful to have seen men standing idle upon the Bell Rock, where all moved with activity, it was judged better to leave them on board. The boats landed at half-past 7 P. M., and the landing-master, with the seamen, was employed during this tide, in cutting the sea-weeds from the several paths leading to the landing-places, to render walking more safe, for, from the slippery state of the surface of the rock, many severe tumbles had taken place. In the mean time the writer took the necessary levels; and having carefully examined the site of the building, and considered all its parts, it still appeared to be necessary to excavate to the average depth of fourteen inches, over the whole area of the foundation. Having made these remarks, we again left the rock, at half-past 9, after having been two hours upon it. At the entrance of the eastern creek, the sea ran high, and all on board got a thorough wetting; but so long as the boats were kept from striking upon the rock, the sprays which came on board were but little regarded.

[Sidenote: Saturday 28th.]

[Sidenote: Artificers much afflicted with sea-sickness.]

The wind still continued from the eastward, with a heavy swell; and to-day it was accompanied with foggy weather, and occasional showers of rain. Notwithstanding this, such was the confidence which the erection of the Beacon had inspired, that the boats landed the artificers on the Rock, under very unpromising circumstances, at half-past 8, and they continued at work till half-past 11, being a period of three hours, which was considered a great tide’s work, in the present low state of the foundation. Three of the masons on board were so afflicted with sea-sickness, that they had not been able to take any food for almost three days, and they were literally assisted into the boats this morning by their companions. It was, however, not a little surprising, to see how speedily these men revived upon landing on the Rock and eating a little dulse. Two of them afterwards assisted the sailors in collecting the chips of stone, and carrying them out of the way of the pickmen; but the third complained of a pain in his head, and was still unable to do any thing. Instead of returning to the tender with the boats, these three men remained on the Beacon all day, and had their victuals sent to them along with the smiths. From Mr Dove, the foreman-smith, they had much sympathy, for he preferred remaining on the Beacon at all hazards, to be himself relieved from the malady of sea-sickness. The wind continuing high, with a heavy sea, and the tide falling late, it was not judged proper to land the artificers this evening, but in the twilight the boats were sent to fetch the people on board who had been left on the Rock.

[Sidenote: Sunday 29th.]

[Sidenote: Misunderstanding among the Artificers about their wages.]

The wind was from the S. W. to-day, and the signal-bell rung, as usual, about an hour before the period for landing on the Rock. The writer was rather surprised, however, to hear the landing-master repeatedly call, “All hands for the Rock;” and, coming on deck, he was disappointed to find the seamen only in the boats. Upon inquiry, it appeared, that some misunderstanding had taken place about the wages of the artificers for Sundays. They had preferred wages for seven days statedly, to the former mode of allowing a day for each tide’s work on Sunday; as they did not like the appearance of working for double or even treble wages on Sunday, and would rather have it understood that their work on that day arose more from the urgency of the case, than with a view to emolument. This having been judged creditable to their religious feelings, and readily adjusted to their wish, the boats proceeded to the Rock, and the work commenced at 9 A. M. The artificers were chiefly employed in removing the iron-stanchions, or frame-work of the forge, which had last year been fixed on the rock, and which was now set on a temporary scaffold erected for it on the Beacon. Having now got two smiths’ hearths above the reach of the tide, the work of this department made great progress, both in the sharping of the numerous picks and irons, and in making bats for fixing the different railway tracks upon the Rock. After getting three and a half hours’ work, the boats returned to the ship at 12 noon, when the excellent prayer, composed by the Rev. Dr Brunton, given in a former part of this work, was read upon the ship’s quarter-deck, in the same manner as had been done last year.

The sloop Smeaton arrived this afternoon with a quantity of cast-iron rails, to be laid upon the Rock, for transporting the blocks of stone from the different landing-places to the site of the building. She had also on board some Norway logs, intended to be batted on the Rock, for supporting the railways across the gullies, or inequalities of the surface. The boats of the Sir Joseph Banks and Floating-light, being employed during the evening tide in delivering the Smeaton, by landing the cast-iron on the Rock, and bringing the timber on board of the Tender, the artificers could not be landed this evening.

[Sidenote: Monday 30th.]

[Sidenote: Fish very abundant at the rock.]

The weather to-day was moderate, and there was much less breach in the sea than there had been since the commencement of the work this season. The wind kept steadily in the south-west, and the barometer had changed its range from 29.40 to 29.90, and the thermometer from about 40° to 45°. The abundance of fish caught near the Rock was another proof of the more favourable state of the weather; for the fish never failed to come upon the anchorage-ground during good weather, while they as regularly disappeared on a change for the worse.

The Tender’s bell rung this morning, as the signal for going to the Rock, at 9 o’clock; and at half-past 9, the water having partially left the foundation-pit, the work commenced, and continued two and three-fourth hours, or till a quarter from 1 o’clock P. M., when the tide again overflowed the whole site of the building. The masons and seamen returned with the boats on board the Tender, but the mill-wrights and joiners, who had come off with the Smeaton to fit up the railways, and such of the masons as were apt to be sick, remained with the smiths on the Beacon throughout the day.

[Sidenote: General usefulness of Sailors as men of all works.]

The number of workmen at the Rock was now increased to twenty-eight, including six sailors from the landing-master’s crew, who were constantly employed in baling water, and keeping the foundation clear of the chips, struck off by the pick. They also conveyed the irons to the forge, by hoisting them up to the Beacon by a _whip-tackle_. The seamen were of the greatest service in many of the operations, for _Jack_ is a man of all trades; but as they had their boats to attend, and were always at the landing-master’s call, they were not taken into account in the enumeration of artificers.

[Sidenote: Mortar Gallery fitted up.]

Mr Francis Watt commenced, at this tide, with five joiners, to fit up a temporary platform upon the Beacon, about twenty-five feet above the highest part of the Rock. This platform was to be used as the site of the smith’s forge, after the Beacon should be fitted up as a barrack; and here also the mortar was to be mixed and prepared for the building, and it was accordingly termed the Mortar Gallery. This platform was supported with joisting, well framed, and properly fixed to the principal beams; but the flooring or boarding, though two inches in thickness, was only slightly nailed to the joisting, so that when the sea rose, and struck it in bad weather, it might lift, without endangering the general frame of the fabric. At the end of the working season this floor was lifted, and the joisting only left during the winter months.

[Sidenote: Smeaton is ballasted at the Bell Rock.]

The landing-master’s crew completed the discharging from the Smeaton of the remainder of her cargo of the cast-iron rails and timber. It must not here be omitted to notice, that the Smeaton took in ballast from the Bell Rock, consisting of the shivers or chips of stone, produced by the workmen in preparing the site of the building, which were now accumulated in great quantities on the Rock. These the boats loaded, after discharging the iron. The object in carrying off these chips, besides ballasting the vessel, was to get them permanently out of the way, as they were apt to shift about from place to place, with every gale of wind; and it often required a considerable time to clear the foundation a second time of this rubbish. The circumstance of ballasting a ship at the Bell Rock afforded great entertainment, especially to the sailors; and it was perhaps with truth remarked, that the Smeaton was the first vessel that had ever taken on board ballast at the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 31st.]

The winds were variable to-day, but chiefly from the north, accompanied with fine weather. On landing at a quarter from 11 A. M., the higher parts of the site of the building were dry, and the work continued two and a quarter hours, when it was again stopped by the return of the flood-tide. The joiners and smiths, together with those who were apt to be sick on board of the Tender, remained on the Beacon throughout the day, and at a quarter past 1 P. M. the boats left the Rock with the masons.

There were eighteen seamen from the Smeaton, Sir Joseph Banks, and Floating-light, employed to-day under the direction of Mr Wilson, the landing-master, in laying the cast-iron work of the railways in a compact manner, into the various crevices and holes in the Rock, to prevent its being tossed about by the sea, until it should be wanted in the course of fixing the tracks to the Rock.

[Sidenote: Chips of the rock in great request at Leith.]

The Smeaton being finally discharged, and partly loaded with stone shivers from the Bell Rock, she sailed for Leith, in order to fetch the remainder of the cast-iron, and some additional logs of timber. Mr Pool, the commander of this vessel, afterwards acquainted the writer, that when the ballast was landed upon the quay at Leith, many persons carried away specimens of it, as part of a cargo from the Bell Rock; when he added, that such was the interest excited, from the number of specimens carried away, that some of his friends suggested, that he should have sent the whole to the Cross of Edinburgh, where each piece might have sold for a penny.

[Sidenote: Fish caught at the Bell Rock.]

In the evening the boats went to the Rock, and brought the joiners and smiths, and their sickly companions, on board of the Tender. They also brought with them two baskets full of fish, which they had caught at high water, from the Beacon, reporting, at the same time, to their comrades, that the fish were swimming in such numbers over the rock at high water, that it was completely hid from their sight, and nothing seen but the movement of thousands of fish. They were almost exclusively of the species called the Podlie, or young Coal-fish. This discovery, made for the first time to-day by the workmen, was considered fortunate, as an additional circumstance likely to produce an inclination among the artificers to take up their residence in the Beacon, when it came to be fitted up as a barrack.

[Sidenote: 1808, June.]

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 1st.]

The boats landed to-day at 11 A. M., but the tides being neap, the water went off very slowly, and it was 12 noon before it left the site of the building. After continuing at work one hour and three quarters, the artificers left the rock with all hands, when the tender immediately got under weigh, or rather _cast off_ from her moorings, by simply letting go one end of the mooring hawser, and sailed for Arbroath. But the wind being N.N.W., it was 8 o’clock P. M. before she got into the harbour.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.]

[Sidenote: First course finished to-day. Its cubical contents, &c.]

This being the birth-day of King George III., who now entered into the 70th year of his age, and 50th of his reign, a considerable effort was made to get the first entire course of the building laid upon the platform at Arbroath, where it was to be marked and numbered, and made ready for shipping for the Rock. It may seem strange, that after continuing the operations of the work-yard for about twelve months, there should only have been but one course ready to ship for the Rock. Such also was the difficulty of procuring granite of a large size, that this course was obliged to be hewn of the thickness of only one foot. The chief advantage of thick courses in water buildings, besides a saving of hewing, is that of getting sooner out of the reach of the tide, there being nearly as much time necessary for laying a thin course as a thick one. The stones for the first entire course were not quarried particularly for it, but were taken from the whole materials in the yard. The enumeration of the various kinds and quantity of work in this single course of the Light-house, may perhaps surprise the reader. Though only one foot in thickness, it contained 508 feet cubic of granite in outward casing; 876 feet cubic of Mylnefield stone in the hearting; 104 tons of solid contents; 132 feet superficial of hewing in the face work; 4519 feet superficial of hewing in the beds, joints and joggles; 420 feet lineal boring of trenail holes; 378 feet lineal cutting for wedges; 246 oaken trenails; 378 oaken wedges in pairs.

[Sidenote: Certainty of commencing building this season.]

In the work-yard, about sixty stone cutters were employed in hewing and preparing the various courses of the solid part of the building. Stones were now got pretty readily from Mylnefield quarry; and besides the quarries at Aberdeen, others had been opened near Peterhead, belonging to Mr John Hutchison, which produced a great many fine blocks. As much of the Aberthaw limestone had been broken and prepared for burning as would charge the kiln. A number of casks of the capacity of about 32 gallons, had also been provided and were ready to be filled, in equal numbers, of clean sharp sand, lime and pozzolano earth, in the state of fine powder. After much trouble and correspondence with timber-merchants in Leith, London, and other parts, a considerable quantity of trenails and wedges of British oak were procured, which were to be used in connecting the courses of the solid part of the building, while the works were low, and in danger of being washed away or injured by the sea. These oaken trenails and wedges were made up in bundles, containing about 20. In short, every thing was in a state of readiness in the work-yard, for building the first three courses of the Light-house. The preparations for its foundation at the Rock were now also in considerable forwardness, and the works, upon the whole, put on an appearance which left no doubt as to the commencement of the building this season.

[Sidenote: Artificers sail for the Rock.]

The writer sailed from Arbroath in the evening of the 6th of June in the Tender, with a fine breeze of northerly wind, having on board 34 artificers, consisting of masons, smiths, mill-wrights and joiners, besides the landing master’s crew, consisting of twelve seamen, who worked the ship. There were also on board Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder; Mr Francis Watt, foreman mill-wright; Mr James Dove, foreman smith; Mr James Wilson, landing master; Mr David Taylor, master; Mr William Reid, mate, and Mr John Peters, steward, counting in all fifty-four persons. The weather was clear, and the vessel had no sooner got out of the harbour, than the lights of the float were distinctly seen; and before day-break, the Tender was made fast to her moorings off the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 7th.]

[Sidenote: Arrangements at landing at an early hour on the Rock.]

At 3 o’clock in the morning, the ship’s bell was rung as the signal for landing at the Rock. These artificers, to which this had been the first trip, found their quarters rather confined in the ship, and some of them being sickly, were glad of an opportunity of landing, and came almost immediately upon deck, notwithstanding the earliness of the hour at which the tide happened. But those who were more accustomed to the business, calculated their time, knowing that sufficient warning was always given, especially at hours so early. When the landing was to be made before breakfast, it was customary to give each of the artificers and seamen a dram and a biscuit, and coffee was prepared by the steward for the cabins. Exactly at 4 o’clock, the whole party landed from three boats, including one of those belonging to the Floating-light, with a part of that ship’s crew, which always attended the works in moderate weather. The landing-master’s boat called the Seaman, but more commonly the Life-boat, took the lead. The next boat called the Mason, was generally, steered by the writer; while the Floating-light’s boat Pharos, was under the management of the boatswain of that ship.

[Sidenote: How the Artificers are employed.]

Having now so considerable a party of workmen and sailors on the Rock, it may be proper here to notice how their labours were directed. Preparations having been made last month for the erection of a second forge upon the beacon, the smiths commenced their operations, both upon the lower and higher platforms, where forges had been erected. They were employed in sharpening the picks and irons for the masons, and in making bats and other apparatus of various descriptions, connected with the fitting of the railways. The landing-master’s crew were occupied in assisting the mill-wrights in laying the railways to hand. Sailors, of all other descriptions of men, are the most accommodating in the use of their hands. They worked freely with the boring irons, and assisted in all the operations of the railways, acting by turns as boatmen, seamen, and artificers. We had no such character on the Bell Rock as the common labourer. All the operations of this department were cheerfully undertaken by the seamen, who, both on the rock and on ship-board, were the inseparable companions of every work connected with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house. It will naturally be supposed, that about twenty-five masons, occupied with their picks in executing and preparing the foundation of the light-house, in the course of a tide of about three hours, would make a considerable impression upon an area even of forty-two feet in diameter. But in proportion as the foundation was deepened, the rock was found to be much more hard and difficult to work, while the baling and pumping of water became much more troublesome. A joiner was kept almost constantly employed in fitting the picks to their handles, which, as well as the points of the irons, were very frequently broken. At 8 o’clock, the water overflowed the site of the building, and the boats left the rock with all hands for breakfast. Several of the artificers would willingly have remained upon the beacon to avoid the rolling motion and sickness incident to the ship; yet, being all wetted, and those especially who were employed in excavating the site of the light-house and railways, being completely bespattered with the chips and particles elicited from the Rock, the whole party embarked in the boats; but such as chose were at liberty to return to the beacon with the smiths after breakfast.

[Sidenote: Interesting appearance of the Rock.]

Excepting at the erection of the principal beams of the beacon, the Bell Rock this morning presented by far the most busy and active appearance it had exhibited since the erection of the Beacon. The surface of the Rock was crowded with men, the two forges flaming, the one above the other, upon the Beacon, while the anvils thundered with the rebounding noise of their wooden supports, and formed a curious contrast with the occasional clamour of the surges. The wind was westerly to-day, and the weather being extremely agreeable, as soon after breakfast as the tide had sufficiently overflowed the rock to float the boats over it, the smiths, with a number of the artificers, returned to the Beacon, carrying their fishing-tackle along with them, which had all been put in a state of requisition before they left the shore. In the course of the forenoon, the Beacon exhibited a still more extraordinary appearance than the Rock had done in the morning. The sea being smooth, it seemed to be afloat upon the water, with a number of men supporting themselves in all the variety of attitude and position; while, from the upper part of this wooden house, the volumes of smoke which ascended from the forges, gave the whole a very curious and fanciful appearance.

[Sidenote: Artificers remain on the rock all day.]

The length of the day now afforded two tides with day-light. The boats, therefore, landed the artificers at 5 o’clock P. M., and after three hours’ work, as in the morning, all hands again left it at 8 o’clock, and returned on board of the Tender. Those who had been left upon the beacon, complained of being very tired, with supporting themselves so long in one position without motion, or even a sufficient space to rest their feet upon.

From the excellence of the weather, and for the greater conveniency of the work, the Tender had been made fast to one of the Stone-lighter’s floating buoys, to be nearer to the Rock than her own moorings, which were placed at such a distance as might enable her, in casting off, to clear the Rock on any tack. But, in the course of this tide, it was observed that a heavy swell was setting in from the eastward; and the appearance of the sky indicated a change of weather, while the wind was shifting about. The barometer also had fallen from 30 to 29.60. It was therefore judged prudent to shift the vessel to the SW. or more distant buoy. Her bowsprit was also soon afterwards taken in, the top-masts struck, and every thing made _snug_, as seamen term it, for a gale. During the course of the night, the wind increased and shifted to the eastward, when the vessel rolled very hard, and the sea often broke over her bows with great force.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 8th.]

[Sidenote: Tender bears away for Leith Roads.]

Although the motion of the Tender was much less than that of the Floating-light, at least in regard to the rolling motion; yet, she _sended_ or pitched much. Being also of a very handsome build, and what seamen term very _clean aft_, the sea often struck her counter with such force, that the writer, who possessed the aftermost cabin, being unaccustomed to this new vessel, could not divest himself of uneasiness; for, when her stern fell into the sea, it struck with so much violence, as to be more like the resistance of a rock than the sea. The water, at the same time, often rushed with great force up the rudder-case; and forcing up the valve of the water-closet, the floor of his cabin was at times laid under water. The gale continued to increase, and the vessel rolled and pitched in such a manner, that the hawser by which the Tender was made fast to the buoy snapped, and she went adrift. In the act of swinging round to the wind, she shipped a very heavy sea, which greatly alarmed the artificers, who imagined that we had got upon the Rock. But this, from the direction of the wind, was impossible. The writer, however, sprung upon deck, where he found the sailors busily employed in rigging out the bowsprit, and in setting sail. From the easterly direction of the wind, it was considered most advisable to steer for the Firth of Forth, and there wait a change of weather. At 2 P. M. we accordingly passed the Isle of May; at 6 anchored in Leith Roads, and at 8 the writer landed, when he came in upon his friends, who were not a little surprised at his unexpected appearance, which gave an instantaneous alarm for the safety of things at the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.]

The wind still continued to blow very hard at E. by N., and the Sir Joseph Banks rode heavily, and even drifted with both anchors ahead, in Leith Roads. The artificers did not attempt to leave the ship last night; but there being upwards of fifty-people on board, and the decks greatly lumbered with the two large boats, they were in a very crowded and impatient state on board. But to-day they got ashore, and amused themselves by walking about the streets of Edinburgh, some in very humble apparel, from having only the worst of their jackets with them, which, though quite suitable for their work, were hardly fit for public inspection, being not only tattered, but greatly stained with the red colour of the rock.

[Sidenote: Friday, 10th.]

To-day the wind was at S. E., with light breezes and foggy weather. At 6 A. M. the writer again embarked for the Bell Rock, when the vessel immediately sailed. At 11 P. M., there being no wind, the kedge-anchor was _let go_ off Anstruther, one of the numerous towns on the coast of Fife, where we waited the return of the tide.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 11th.]