Chapter VI (5)

This accident obliged the vessel to be anchored all night in the Bay of Arbroath, and having got another boat she sailed this morning at 5 o’clock. On reaching the Rock, it was found that a very heavy sea still ran upon it; but the writer having been disappointed on the two former occasions, and, as the erection of the house might now be considered complete, there being nothing wanted externally, excepting some of the storm-shutters for the defence of the windows, he was the more anxious at this time to inspect it. Two well manned boats were therefore ordered to be in attendance; and, after some difficulty, the wind being at N.N.E., they got safely into the western creek, though not without encountering plentiful sprays. It would have been impossible to have attempted a landing to-day, under any other circumstances than with boats perfectly adapted to the purpose, and with seamen who knew every ledge of the Rock, and even the length of the sea-weeds at each particular spot, so as to dip their oars into the water accordingly, and thereby prevent them from getting entangled. But what was of no less consequence to the safety of the party, Captain Wilson, who always steered the leading boat, had a perfect knowledge of the set of the different waves, while the crew never shifted their eyes from observing his motions, and the strictest silence was preserved by every individual except himself. Under such regulations, which were observed on all occasions of difficulty, the landings at the Rock proceeded with the greatest regularity, and by this means, safety, and even comfort, were enjoyed, where, under different circumstances, there would have been much peril. The second or attending boat was steered by James Shepherd the experienced coxwain of the Floating-light, whose directions were to keep about two oars’ length astern. This boat was generally kept light, and as free of incumbrance as possible, that she might be ready to assist in any case of emergency. The writer is the more particular upon this subject, as he conceives that much of the success of the Bell Rock operations depended on the safety which attended the many thousands of landings made in all sorts of weather.

[Sidenote: State of the Railways.]

On landing at the Rock this morning, the writer found the Railways much broken up on the eastern-reach and the circular track round the building; while the western-reach, extending to upwards of 290 feet, had also materially suffered. In several places it had got an inclination to one side, by the force of the N.E. seas, which came sweeping round the Rock, and it was evident it could not withstand the gales of winter. The Norway logs, on which these railways were supported, had not only been much reduced in strength, by the ravages of the insect formerly noticed, but, from this cause also, the rails had got a tremulous motion in heavy seas, which had shaken loose several of the bolts. It was, however, so far well that they had already answered the immediate purpose intended by them.

[Sidenote: State of the beams of the Beacon.]

The Beacon-house was found, upon examination, to be in general in a good state of repair, though the lower parts, where the beams rested upon the Rock, had suffered from the insect. Several of them, as before noticed, had been so much hollowed, where they at first rested on the Rock, that the hand could be introduced into the heart of the log, while the exterior of the timber, for an inch or two in thickness, remained quite entire; the charring of the surface, and the hot-pitch, wherever it could be applied, having completely preserved it. Several of the beams, however, now rested chiefly upon the bolts, which passed through the great iron-stanchions sunk into the Rock, as represented in Plate VIII. But this fabric had nearly served its purpose, and there was a prospect of its being taken down next summer. It has before been noticed that these effects, at the parts where the beams rested, or were in contact with the Rock, had not been anticipated. But, in the event of a similar erection on any part of the British coast, it would be proper to provide against this by sinking the foot of the principal beams 8 inches into the Rock, and shoeing them with sheet lead or copper; though the action of the latter metal with the iron-work might be somewhat objectionable, and might render a coating with tin advisable.

[Sidenote: State of the Light-house.]

Having examined the Beacon-house, he next passed to the Light-house, by the horizontal rope-ladder represented in Plate IX. The lower part of the building, as high as the perpendicular range of the tide, was coated all over with marine plants; toward the north-east, this appearance had indeed reached about 50 feet in height. On entering the house, he had the pleasure to find it in a somewhat habitable condition, the lower apartments being closed in with temporary windows, and fitted with proper storm-shutters. It may here be remarked as a strong instance of the very fortunate position of the Entrance-door, that although the sea had risen to the height of upwards of 80 feet, on the eastern side of the Light-house, it had not, as yet, been found necessary to have it hung, although Mr Slight was now setting about this operation, by the insertion of the Lewis-bats or tails of the hinges, into their respective brass-boxes, previously built into the walls. There being, as yet, no inner-door for the passage, temporary-hatches were also still wanting for the man-holes of the several floors, to check the sifting air, which, in westerly winds, made the house very cold, and carried along with it particles of dust, which might have become injurious to the reflecting-apparatus.

[Sidenote: Condition of the several apartments.]

The lowest apartment at the head of the stair-case was occupied with water, fuel, and provisions, put up in a temporary way, until the house could be furnished with proper utensils. The second or light-room store was, at present, much encumbered with various tools and apparatus for the use of the workmen. The kitchen immediately over this had, as yet, been supplied only with a common ship’s coboose, and plate-iron funnel, while the necessary cooking utensils had been taken from the Beacon. The bed-room was, for the present, used as the joiners’ workshop, and the strangers’ room, immediately under the light-room, was occupied by the artificers, the beds being ranged in tiers, as was done in the barrack of the Beacon. The light-room, though unprovided with its machinery, being now covered over with the cupola, glazed and painted, had a very complete and cleanly appearance. The balcony was only as yet fitted with a temporary rail, consisting of a few iron stanchions, connected with ropes; and in this state it was necessary to leave it during the winter.

[Sidenote: Light-house put under charge of Mr John Reid.]

Having gone over the whole of the low-water works on the Rock, the Beacon and Light-house, and being satisfied that only the most untoward accident in the landing of the machinery could prevent the exhibition of the light, in the course of the winter; Mr John Reid, formerly of the Floating-light, was now put in charge of the light-house as principal keeper; Mr James Slight had charge of the operations of the artificers; while Mr James Dove and the smiths having finished the frame of the light-room, left the Rock for the present. With these arrangements the writer bade adieu to the works for the season. At 11 A. M. the tide was far advanced; and there being now little or no shelter for the boats at the Rock, they had to be pulled through the breach of sea, which came on board in great quantities, and it was with extreme difficulty that they could be kept in the proper direction of the landing-creek.--On this occasion, he may be permitted to look back with gratitude on the many escapes made in the course of this arduous undertaking, now brought so near to a successful conclusion.

[Sidenote: November.]

[Sidenote: Saturday, 3d.]

[Sidenote: The Boat is washed off the Beacon.]

The wind having, on Saturday the 3d of November, shifted to the N. E., with showers of snow, accompanied by a very heavy swell of sea, it was stated, in the monthly return from the Rock, that the water had come in considerable quantities into the threshold of the entrance-door, which, on this occasion, had to be shut. During this gale, it was thought that the Beacon would certainly have been carried away by the force of the tremendous seas which fell upon it, and often washed over it at high-water. The small boat suspended from projected davits at the height of 30 feet above the Rock, as shown in Plate VIII., got full of water by the accidental stopping of the eyelet-hole, while the friction occasioned by the tremulous motion of the Beacon, and beating of the waves, chaffed one of the bow-tackle ropes: she then hung suspended from the stem-tackle, and every sea which came rolling along gave her a new impulse: this soon wore out the remaining tackle, and she was at length swept away, after having kept her position since mid-summer.

[Sidenote: Sprays rise 104 feet on the Light-house.]

On one occasion, while the inmates of the Light-house were standing on the balcony, looking with attention at the wonderful state of the sea, the sprays conducted by the walls, came full in their faces, and, passing partly over their heads, struck upon the second tier of the glass-panes of the light-room, which is 104 feet from the Rock! During this gale, a thrilling motion was sensibly felt throughout the building, upon leaning against the walls at particular periods, when the seas struck the base of the house. The rise of the spray to the height above mentioned rather surprised the writer, as he had not himself at any time seen it higher than about 70 feet. He had, however, felt the tremulous effect alluded to; and it has already been remarked, that it is not while the gale continues that the sea strikes so hard, or rises to so great a height; but after the abatement of the storm, when the waves begin to break in the manner represented in the frontispiece.

[Sidenote: Sprays fly over the Floating-light.]

This gale was also much felt on board of the Floating-light. Captain Wilson states, in his account of the weather, that he had to veer out the long-service, or about 90 fathoms of cable, and often to freshen hawse, or to shift that part of the cable which was immediately in the hawsehole of the ship. The seas also which struck the bows of the vessel were generally carried as far aft as the quarter-deck, and were not unfrequently thrown over the stern. This gale was, therefore, considered to have been as severe as that of September 1807, already described. The Light-house Yacht, now acting as Tender at the Rock, having been driven from her station, had taken shelter in Burntisland Roads, ready on the first change of weather to return to the Rock. The Smeaton and Patriot were fortunately in Arbroath, discharging their cargoes of stones from Milnfield, for the establishment on shore.

[Sidenote: Mr Reid and Mr Fortune left in the Light-house.]

On Monday the 5th, the Yacht again visited the Rock; when Mr Slight and the artificers returned with her to the work-yard, where a number of things were still to prepare connected with the temporary fitting up of the accommodation for the light-keepers. Mr John Reid and Peter Fortune were now the only inmates of the house. This was the smallest number of persons hitherto left in the Light-house. As four light-keepers were to be the complement, it was intended that three should always be at the Rock. Its present inmates, however, could hardly have been better selected for such a situation; Mr Reid being a person possessed of the strictest notions of duty, and habits of regularity, from long service on board of a man-of-war, while Mr Fortune had one of the most happy and contented dispositions imaginable.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 13th.]

[Sidenote: Experience a heavy gale.]

From Saturday the 10th till Tuesday the 13th, the wind had been from N.E., blowing a heavy gale; but to-day, the weather having greatly moderated, Captain Taylor, who now commanded the Smeaton, sailed at 2 o’clock A. M. for the Bell Rock. At 5 the Floating-light was hailed, and found to be all well. Being a fine moon-light morning, the seamen were changed from the one ship to the other. At 8, the Smeaton being off the Rock, the boats were manned, and taking a supply of water, fuel, and other necessaries, landed at the western side, when Mr Reid and Mr Fortune were found in good health and spirits. They reported, that the sea had run very heavily, and rose at times nearly to the balcony of the Light-house, when it fell with great weight and violence on the Beacon-house; that, on Sunday the 11th, the wooden-frame of the western wharf was carried away; and that the railways to the eastward were also much shattered and broken by large detached masses of rock, brought from deep water by the impulse of the sea, some of which left on the Rock were apparently of the cubical contents of several tons. Though none of these stones have yet been traced as belonging to any particular part of the Rock, yet they are all of the same red sandstone. It was intended at this time, that a large stock of coals and water should have been got into the Light-house, before the Smeaton went to Leith, to load the remainder of the apparatus; but this, from the state of the weather, was found impracticable, and she therefore returned to Arbroath, to wait a change of weather.

[Sidenote: 1810, November.]

[Sidenote: Saturday, 1st.]

[Sidenote: Their description of the effects of the Sea upon the Light-House.]

It having been intimated at the work-yard, that a log of timber had come ashore at West-Haven, about six miles from Arbroath, James Glen, who knew every piece of timber upon the Bell Rock, was dispatched, to ascertain if it had drifted from thence; and, on his return, reported that the log had belonged to the Western Wharf. Mr Slight having got his apparatus prepared, went again off to the Rock with the workmen, when a large additional supply of water, fuel, and provisions, was also landed. It was now ascertained, that the whole of the western wharf, and part of its connecting railway, had been carried away, and that the circular-track and eastern-reach of the railways were much damaged. Mr Reid farther stated, that, during the late gales, particularly on Friday the 30th, the wind veering from S.E. to N.E., both he and Mr Fortune sensibly felt the house tremble, when particular seas struck, about the time of high-water; the former observing that it was a tremor of that sort which rather tended to convince him that every thing about the building was sound, and reminded him of the effect produced, when a good log of timber is struck sharply with a mallet; but, with every confidence in the stability of the building, he nevertheless confessed, that, in so forlorn a situation, they were not insensible to those emotions which, he emphatically observed, “made a man look back upon his former life.”

[Sidenote: 1810, December.]

[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.]

[Sidenote: The Red-coloured glass arrives at Leith.]

The Smeaton was now much wanted at Leith, where Mr Forrest had arrived from London on the 1st, with the plates of red-coloured glass; but the weather continued boisterous, and she was detained in the harbour of Arbroath with a gale at S.W. To-day the writer got notice from Mr Andrew Roger, merchant in St Monance, that some fishermen belonging to that village had picked up a raft of timber, strongly bolted together. This turned out to be part of the timber of the Western Wharf, which had drifted from the Rock on the 11th, and had been ever since floating about the Firth of Forth. It was picked up on the coast of Fife, about nine miles to the westward of the Isle of May.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.]

[Sidenote: The Reflecting apparatus sent from Leith.]

The wind having shifted last night, the Smeaton sailed from Arbroath at 10 P. M., for Leith, to take on board the whole of the remaining appurtenances necessary for the exhibition of the Light. She got into Leith harbour on the 9th, about mid-day, when the apparatus was immediately put on board; but the weather was unfavourable for going down the Firth of Forth. To-day, however, the wind being west, with a better appearance, the following persons sailed for the Rock, viz. Mr James Dove, smith, who was to screw together the frame for the Reflecting-apparatus; Mr James Clark, clock-maker, who had constructed, and was now to regulate, the Revolving-machinery for the lights; and Mr John Forrest, who had the general superintendance of the keepers’ duty of the Northern Light-houses, and being also foreman for Light-room repairs in the service, was to adjust the reflectors and lamps, and remain at the Bell Rock until every thing was found to proceed in a satisfactory manner.

[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.]

[Sidenote: An attempt is made to land at the Rock.]

At day-light this morning, however, the Smeaton was still eight or nine miles from the Light-house, with hardly any wind. In the prospect of effecting a landing, Captain Taylor manned the boat when about two miles distant from the Rock, intending to leave the above persons, and afterwards to take the earliest opportunity of landing the apparatus, the tide being now too far spent for attempting the latter operation. The only articles taken in the boat, besides their personal luggage, were the two boxes of red-glass, which having already cost so much trouble, and requiring so much care, Mr Forrest, with his usual caution, had determined not to lose sight of. The party thus proceeded, but, on reaching the Rock, they had the mortification to find it nearly under water, with such a breach of sea that no boat could approach it. They were, therefore, obliged to return to the ship, perishing with cold, and chagrined with disappointment.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.]

[Sidenote: Reflecting-apparatus safely landed.]

The wind still continued from N.W., but, most fortunately for the business of the day, the weather was moderate. Having last night called at the Floating-light, it was arranged with Captain Wilson, that he should attend by day-light at the Rock, with one of his boats, to assist in landing the Smeaton’s cargo. The passengers went off first, carrying in their boat the two cases of coloured-glass, and a few other articles, while the Floating-light’s boat followed with the machinery; and by noon the whole of the Reflecting-apparatus was got safely into the Light-house. Mr Forrest having thus been enabled to give advice, which reached the writer on the 17th, that all the articles had been safely landed; and foreseeing that every thing would be in readiness in the course of about four weeks, a specification of the appearance of the light was prepared, to the following effect, for public advertisement.

[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.]

[Sidenote: The Light is advertised to the Public.]

“NAVIGATION OF THE NORTH SEAS.--A Light-house having been erected
upon the Inch Cape, or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the
Friths of Forth and Tay, in north Lat. 56° 29´, and west Long. 2°
22´,--The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses hereby give
notice, That the Light will be from oil, with reflectors, placed
at the height of about 108 feet above the medium level of the sea.
The light will be exhibited on the night of Friday, the 1st day
of February 1811, and each night thereafter, from the going away
of day-light in the evening until the return of day-light in the
morning. To distinguish this light from others on the coast, it is
made to revolve horizontally, and to exhibit a bright light of the
natural appearance, and a red-coloured light, alternately, both
respectively attaining their greatest strength or most luminous
effect in the space of every four minutes; during that period,
the bright light will, to a distant observer, appear like a star
of the first magnitude, which, after attaining its full strength,
is gradually eclipsed to total darkness; and is succeeded by the
red-coloured light, which in like manner increases to full strength,
and again diminishes and disappears. The coloured-light, however,
being less powerful, may not be seen for a time after the bright
light is first observed. During the continuance of foggy weather,
and showers of snow, a Bell will be tolled, by machinery, night and
day, at intervals of half a minute. NOTICE is hereby also given,
That the Floating-light, moored two and a half miles N.W. ½ N. from
the Bell Rock, will, from and after the 1st day of February 1811, be
_discontinued_, and, as soon thereafter as the weather permits, the
vessel will be removed from her station.”

[Sidenote: List of Newspapers.]

To give this Notice publicity, it was advertised in the following Newspapers:

SCOTCH.

Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle.

---- Courant.

---- Correspondent.

---- Mercury.

---- Advertiser.

---- Star.

---- Journal.

Leith Telegraph.

Dundee Advertiser.

---- Mercury.

Perth Courier.

Montrose Review.

Aberdeen Journal.

---- Chronicle.

Inverness Journal.

Glasgow Journal.

---- Courier.

---- Western Star.

---- Sentinel.

---- Packet.

---- Herald.

Greenock Advertiser.

ENGLISH.

London Gazette.

---- Globe.

---- Morning Post.

London Courier.

---- Chronicle.

Plymouth Telegraph.

---- Chronicle.

Bristol Gazette.

---- Journal.

---- Mirror.

---- Mercury.

Liverpool Courier.

---- Advertiser.

---- General Advertiser.

---- Saturday Advertiser.

Cumberland Packet.

Newcastle Courant.

---- Chronicle.

---- Advertiser.

---- Tyne Mercury.

Hull and Rockingham Packet.

Hull and Rockingham Advertiser.

York Courant.

---- Herald.

---- Chronicle.

Norwich Mercury.

Hampshire Telegraph.

IRISH.

Dublin Evening Post.

---- Patriot.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.]

[Sidenote: The Light-keepers are left in possession of the House.]

The Tender having got a landing made on the 27th December, every thing at the Light-house was found in a prosperous state. Mr Dove and Mr Clark had finished their work about two hours before the Smeaton came in sight; and Mr Slight had also completed all that was proposed to be done to the interior finishing of the apartments this winter; so that Mr Forrest, with Messrs Reid, Bonyman, Leask, and Fortune, the keepers, were now left in possession of the Light-house.