Chapter IV: Introduction (1)

ACCOUNT OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS AND OF THE PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

[Sidenote: Institution of Board of Northern Light-houses.]

Among the Nations of Europe, the SCOTS have always been allowed to possess a considerable share of maritime enterprise. The local situation and circumstances of Scotland necessarily directed the genius of its people to the pursuit of nautical affairs. Their voyages to the Hanseatic Towns, and to all the commercial countries of Europe, were naturally longer than those of their more southern neighbours of England, who were separated from the Continent only by a narrow channel, which must have rendered their communication in the rude periods of maritime discovery comparatively easy. The voyages of the Scots even to the most contiguous parts of France and the Low Countries were upwards of 140 leagues, along a coast intersected by innumerable shoals; and, in the time of war, lay so open to the attacks of English ships, that, in prosecuting them, the navigators were obliged to abandon the usual track, and hold a course far from the shelter of the land, exposed to all the dangers of the seas and the vicissitudes of the weather.

In those early periods of our national history, when Britain was divided into two separate and independent states, jealous of each other, it became necessary for Scotland to form alliances with foreign powers, when distant voyages, and much intercourse by sea was indispensable. The frequent struggles with the marauding powers of the North, obliged her to keep a more considerable navy than would otherwise have been required for the protection of her commerce. The connection likewise, with Denmark and Norway, through the marriage of James III. with Margaret daughter of Christian I., in 1469, was attended with the final annexation of the Orkney and Shetland Islands to the Crown of Scotland;--circumstances which naturally extended her foreign traffic, and completely united the dominion and the navigation of the whole line of her coast.

It was reserved, however, for the influence and happy effects of the Union of the Crowns and Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, to draw forth the full energies of these countries. During the long and glorious reign of his late Majesty, the name and character of the United Kingdom have been highly advanced in arms, while her works of industry, have not only flourished at home, but been extended to the remotest parts of the world.

[Sidenote: Improvement of the Highlands.]

About the middle of the last or eighteenth century, the true value of the Highlands of Scotland, and the best interests of these extensive districts, may be said for the first time to have been understood. Since that period, the object of the Government has been more especially directed to the industry of the inhabitants, in giving every encouragement and facility to the establishment of fisheries, towns and harbours, along the shores of the north and west of Scotland; and in opening interior communications, by the introduction of a system of roads, the formation of an extensive inland navigation, and the execution of other national works.

[Sidenote: Extension of Trade.]

Soon after the internal disturbances which marked the year 1745, the trade on the coast of Scotland with sloops or vessels of small tonnage, became considerable, in consequence of the bounties and encouragement given to the extension of the British fisheries. About this time also, the important manufacture of kelp or marine alkali, from certain species of _fuci_ abundant on the northern and western shores of Scotland, was introduced. Besides carrying the kelp to market, a considerable number of small vessels was employed in conveying salt and other articles required for the fisheries,--in the Irish coasting trade,--in carrying slates from Argyleshire,--and in transporting the rich iron-ore of Cumberland to the foundries on the eastern shores of the kingdom. A trade was likewise carried on from the Firth of Clyde, Liverpool, and the west of England in general, and north of Ireland, with Norway, the Baltic, and the other States in the north of Europe, in timber, iron, tar and other commodities; and in exchange for these were received coal, salt, and the various exports of Britain. These all became sources of commerce, which created a demand for shipping, and promoted numerous voyages along the northern and western coasts of Scotland, which now became more known and frequented. But such was the length and peril of a voyage round the coast of Scotland, by the Orkneys and Western Islands, without the aid of light-houses, or even of correct charts, that the traffic along these shores was still comparatively small.

[Sidenote: Inland Navigation.]

It was to remove these difficulties in some measure, that the formation of a navigable canal between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, had long been in agitation; and in the year 1767, the measure was brought forward in the House of Commons. This canal, upon a voyage from the Forth to the Clyde, is calculated to save no less than about 628 miles; the distance, by the inland navigation being reduced to about 35 miles. This work having been carried into execution, was opened from sea to sea in 1790, forming an important step in the progressive intercourse by water-carriage, a system which has since been so remarkably extended to all parts of the united kingdom. But the usefulness of the Forth and Clyde Canal was greatly marred by an unfortunate error in its construction, its depth having been limited to 9 feet, and its consequent incapacity for carrying _sea-borne_ ships of large burden; so that the inconveniences of a circuitous voyage round Scotland still remains for all the larger classes of shipping. In the formation of the Caledonian Canal, the error of the Forth and Clyde navigation has been avoided; this noble work being capable of receiving ships which draw 21 feet of water.

[Sidenote: Voyage of James V. in 1540.]

Notwithstanding these great improvements, it was still found necessary, from the increasing state of trade, to give further facilities to the navigation of the northern shores, by the Orkney and Western Islands. The first step taken towards this object, was to procure accurate surveys of the coast; for it is a curious fact, deserving of notice, that the little journal and chart of the enterprising voyage of James V., with many of the Scottish Nobles, from the Firth of Forth to the Solway Firth , by the Orkneys, was long consulted as the only guide for these seas. This voyage, so honourable to the naval annals of Scotland, was undertaken by James with twelve ships in the year 1540, under the direction of Alexander Lindsay, the most skilful pilot of his time.

[Sidenote: Original Charts.]

At the request of the Philosophical Society (now the Royal Society) of Edinburgh, the Rev. Alex. Bryce of Kirknewton, about the year 1740, made a geometrical survey of the North-west coast of Scotland, including the shores of Caithness and Sutherland. This paved the way for the more extensive labours of Mr Murdoch Mackenzie, who, after finishing his excellent charts of the Orkney Islands in the year 1750, was employed by Government in a survey of the whole of the Western Highlands and Islands, from Cape Wrath in Sutherlandshire to the Mull of Kintyre. But long after the publication of these valuable charts, the navigation of the sounds and sheltered seas of this district was seldom ventured upon by the larger class of shipping employed in foreign trade. The danger of falling in prematurely with the land during the night, and the rapidity of the tides on these shores, induced the mariner to keep along the extreme points and headlands of the coast, holding his course even to the northward of Orkney and Shetland, and to the westward of the Lewis Isles by St Kilda, exposed to the heavy seas of the Atlantic Ocean. In this way, much hazard to shipping, and loss of time, were incurred; and when overtaken with gales of wind, such vessels were unable to avail themselves of the numerous bays and anchorages of the Highlands;--considerations of much importance to heavy laden ships, but especially to the smaller classes of coasting and fishing vessels. It therefore appeared, that nothing but the erection of Lighthouses, by which the mariner might identify the land under night, would render this navigation at all a safe one.

[Sidenote: Proposition of a Light-house Board.]

Representations had often been made by shipmasters to their owners, of the difficulties and dangers encountered in sailing along the coast of Scotland. The establishment of a Light-house Board, and the erection of Light-houses on our Northern Shores, became the topic of conversation among mercantile men; and the subject was at length brought forward at the meeting of the Convention of the Royal Boroughs of Scotland, in the year 1784, by the late Mr DEMPSTER of Dunnichen, then Provost of Forfar, and Member of Parliament, as worthy of the notice of the Legislature.

[Sidenote: Passing of the Original Act, 1786.]

A bill was accordingly framed by the late Mr JOHN GRAY, writer to the Signet, agent for the Royal Boroughs, which was brought into Parliament by Mr Dempster, in the session of 1786. By this act, the 26th Geo. III. chap. 101., a Board was appointed, for the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the preamble stating that “it would conduce greatly to the security of navigation and the fisheries, if four lighthouses were erected in the northern parts of Great Britain,” viz. one on Kinnaird Head, in Aberdeenshire; one on the Orkney Islands; one on the Harris Isles, and one at the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyleshire; for which a duty of one penny _per_ register ton, for British, and twopence _per_ ton upon foreign ships, should be paid by every ship or decked vessel which should pass one or all of these lights.

[Sidenote: Commissioners _ex Officio_.]

The Commissioners appointed for putting this act in execution, are, “His Majesty’s Advocate and Solicitor-General for Scotland; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Edinburgh; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Glasgow; the Provosts of Aberdeen, Inverness and Campbeltown; the Sheriffs of the Counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, Renfrew, Bute, Argyle, Inverness, Ross, Orkney, Caithness, and Aberdeen;” and to these have since been added, the Sheriffs of the Counties of Ayr, Fife, Forfar, and Wigton, agreeably to a clause which authorises the Commissioners to add to their number.

[Sidenote: First Meeting of the Board.]

The first meeting of the Commissioners was held at Edinburgh on the 1st day of August 1786; and consisted of the following members:

His Majesty’s Solicitor-General, Robert Dundas of Arniston. The Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Hunter-Blair, Bart. The First Bailie of Edinburgh, James Dickson, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Bute, Bannatyne Macleod, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Aberdeen, Alexander Elphinston, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Lanark, Sir William Honyman, Bart.

[Sidenote: Mode of raising Funds.]

The meeting having elected Sir James Hunter-Blair to be their Preses, and appointed Mr Gray to be their Secretary, deliberated upon the measures to be taken for giving effect to the statute. The first object of the Board was to borrow the sum of L. 1200, which they were authorised to raise. As all the Commissioners were acting _ex officio_, it was suggested, that the most convenient method of arranging the security for the funds to be borrowed, would be for the Magistrates of the five boroughs mentioned in the act to become security, upon assignment of the duties leviable for the lights,--a mode which was accordingly adopted.

[Sidenote: Progress of Northern Light-houses.]

[Sidenote: Information about Light-houses.]

The preses informed the meeting, that he had corresponded with persons the most likely to afford information relative to the best construction of Light-houses, and had received answers from Liverpool to a variety of queries regarding Light-houses, where the use of coal-fires had been laid aside, and where oil lights, with reflectors, had been introduced: That he had also got various plans and estimates for Light-houses lighted with oil: That the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh had furnished a plan of the Light-house on the Island of May, in the Firth of Forth, and also a description of the light on the Island of Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde, both of which were then open coal-fires: In particular, that he had received from the late Mr THOMAS SMITH of Edinburgh, plans and observations on the construction of Light-houses with Lamps and Reflectors; which having been ultimately approved of, Mr Smith was nominated Engineer to the Board. After appointing a Committee for preparing matters for a general meeting, they adjourned till the 23d of January 1787.

[Sidenote: Transactions of 1787.]

In pursuance of the act of Parliament, the Commissioners gave directions that a correspondence should be opened with the several proprietors of the land where the four original Light-houses were specified to be erected. An answer was immediately received from Mr Traill of Westness in Orkney, requesting the Board’s free acceptance of the ground necessary for erecting the Light-house proposed for the Northern Isles of Orkney, on any part of his property. Application was made to the Duke of Argyle, as to the ground for the erection of a Light-house on the Mull of Kintyre; to Lord Saltoun, relative to the station of Kinnaird-Head, in Aberdeenshire; and to Mr Macleod of Harris, as to the site of a Light-house on Island Glass. Measures were also taken for obtaining fit persons to contract for erecting the necessary buildings, and for conducting the operations at the different stations.

_Kinnaird Head._

[Sidenote: Kinnaird-Head Light-house.]

The result of the correspondence with Lord Saltoun, was the purchase of the old building of Kinnaird Castle from his Lordship, on which a lantern or light-room was erected. After encountering considerable difficulties in the outset of this establishment, the house was got ready for the exhibition of the light by the month of December 1787, and the following notice to mariners was officially given by the Secretary in the London Gazette, and in the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen newspapers.

“By order of the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for erecting four Light-houses in the northern parts of Great Britain, a Light-house is now erected on Kinnaird Castle, at Kinnaird-Head, near Fraserburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, Lat. 57° 42´, and Long. 2° 19´ West of London, Cairnbulg from the Light-house bearing, by compass, S.E., distant 2 miles; and Trauphead W.NW., distant 9 miles. The lantern is 120 feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and will be seen from SE. to W.NW. and intermediate points of the compass on the north of these points. The lantern will be lighted on the night of the first day of December 1787, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

_Mull of Kintyre._

[Sidenote: Mull of Kintyre Light-house.]

At the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most inaccessible and difficult of the Northern Light-house stations, the buildings were nearly prepared for the light-room by the month of November; but the season being too far advanced, and it appearing from Mr Smith’s report, that there would be some risk in conveying the apparatus to the light-house at this inclement season, the Commissioners resolved to delay the further progress of the work at Kintyre till the following spring.

[Sidenote: ~1788.~]

The operations at the Mull of Kintyre were recommenced in the month of April, but, owing chiefly to the inaccessible great difficulty that was experienced in transporting the building materials connected with the lantern or light-room, over the mountainous district of Kintyre, it was the month of October before the light could be announced for exhibition, when public advertisement was made of the lighting of the house to the following effect.

“The Mull of Kintyre Light-house is situated immediately above the rocks known to mariners by the name of The Merchants, in North Lat. 55° 17´, and Long. 5° 42´ west of London; the eastern entrance of the Sound of Isla, bearing from the Light-house by compass, N. by E., distant 33 miles; the Mull of Kinho in the Island of Isla N. NW., distant 25 miles; and the northern extremity of Rathlin Island, on the coast of Ireland, NW. ½ W. distant 13 miles; the Maiden Rocks S. by W. ½ W., distant 21 miles; and Copland Light-house S. by W. ½ W., distant 40 miles. The light-room is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from N. NE. to S. by W., and all intermediate points of the compass north of these points. The light will be exhibited on the 1st day of December 1788, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

[Sidenote: Light-house duty too small.]

In the progress of the works of the Northern Light-houses, it soon became evident, from the diminished state of the funds, that the light-house duty of 1d. _per_ ton upon British vessels, and 2d. upon foreign bottoms, was too small. By the original act, also, this duty was only to be levied after the whole of the lights at the four stations had been exhibited to mariners; but the Board having found that it would be expedient to commence the collection of the duties so soon as two were lighted, resolved on applying to Parliament for a new act.

[Sidenote: Act of 1788.]

A bill was accordingly brought into the House of Commons by Sir Ilay Campbell, M. P., when Lord Advocate for Scotland, and _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, which passed in the session of 1788, empowering the Commissioners to levy a duty of 1½d., or one halfpenny more _per_ ton upon British ships, and 3d., or one penny _per_ ton additional upon foreigners; and, in the mean time, to commence collecting half duties till the whole of the four light-houses mentioned in the former act were lighted, when the full duties were to become exigible. Already about L. 4000 had been expended on the light-houses of Kinnaird-Head and Kintyre. By this new act, however, the Commissioners being empowered to borrow a further sum of L. 3000, were not only enabled to forward the operations already commenced, but, with this additional duty, it was expected that they would soon be in a condition to answer the calls of the shipping interest for additional erections on the coast.

_Island Glass._

[Sidenote: ~1789.~]

Considerable progress had been made in the course of the former season with the erection of the Light-house at Island Glass in Harris, which was finished and lighted on the 10th day of October 1789, the following being its specification:--The Point of Island Glass, one of the Harris Isles, is situated in North Lat. 57° 50´, and Long. 6° 33´ west of London. Ru-Ushiness bears from the light-house, per compass, E. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles; northern extremity of Shiant Isles E., ½ S., southern extremity of ditto E. by S. ½ S., distant 11 miles; Skerne Rock SE., ½ E., distant 3 miles; Skergraidish Rock S. SE. ¼ E., distant 9 miles; Point of Trotternish in Sky S. SE. ¼ E., distant 16 miles; Point of Vaternish S. SW. ¼ W., distant 15 miles; Dunvegan-Head SW. ½ S., distant 20 miles; Point of Roudil, at the entrance of the Sound of Harris, W. by S., distant 14 miles. The light-room is elevated 70 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from E. NE. ½ E., from W. by S., and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house.]

While the works of Island Glass were proceeding, a light-house was also erected, and lighted 10th October 1789, on the island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney; but, as the light at this station was afterwards removed to the neighbouring island of Sanday, it will fall more properly to be noticed in the form of a Tower or Beacon, into which the building was converted, after a Light-house had been established at the Start Point of Sanday.

_Pladda._

[Sidenote: Application for Pladda Light-house.]

The erection of the four light-houses of Kinnaird Head, North Ronaldsay, Island Glass, and the Mull of Kintyre, completed the operations of the Northern Light-house Board, referred to in the original act of 1786; and at the time of passing that act, it was not foreseen that a greater number would be required on the coast of Scotland for a series of years. But the benefit of the lights which had already been erected, in affording much greater safety and facility to the mariner in those dangerous seas, became so apparent, that they were no sooner exhibited than applications from different quarters for new erections followed. Among these, a memorial was presented to the Commissioners by the Merchants’ House of Greenock, accompanied by a letter from the Chamber of Commerce of Glasgow, setting forth the advantages which the shipping of the Clyde would derive from the erection of a light-house upon the small island of Pladda, situated at the southern extremity of the island of Arran, and entrance of the Firth of Clyde. This memorial concluded by requesting, that the Commissioners would “take such measures as should to them seem most proper, for procuring an act of Parliament, in order to carry the erection of a light-house on the island of Pladda into execution as soon as possible.”

[Sidenote: Act of 1789.]

[Sidenote: Collectors appointed.]

An act was accordingly obtained, in the session of 1789, not only for the erection of Pladda Light-house, but for extending the powers of the Commissioners to the erection of such other light-houses on the coast of Scotland as to them should seem necessary, whenever the free produce of the duties of 1½d. and 3d. _per_ ton respectively on British and foreign ships should enable the Board to do so. In consequence of the act of 1788, authorising the collection of half duties so soon as two of the four light-houses mentioned in the original act should be lighted, collectors at the different customhouses of all the ports of Great Britain were appointed to receive the Northern Light-house duty, and for their trouble they were to be paid at the rate of 10 _per cent._ upon the sums they should respectively receive: But the business being scarcely organized in 1789, and only half duties being exigible, the whole money collected in that year amounted but to L. 290:14:6, and even this small sum formed part of two years’ collection. From the smallness of the duties, and the extent of the operations which the Commissioners had now on hand, they were much pressed for the necessary funds, and but for the liberality of their bankers Sir William Forbes and Company, the operations of the Board must have been greatly hampered. Indeed, Sir James Hunter Blair, one of the partners of that house, when Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and _ex officio_ a member of the Board, had been highly instrumental in forwarding the establishment of the Northern Light-houses; and it was, perhaps, from such adventitious circumstances, together with the economy of the measures originally pursued, that the progress of the Light-house works proceeded, without experiencing any interruption from want of funds.

[Sidenote: ~1790.~]

The light-house of Pladda was finished in the course of the year 1790, and lighted on the 1st day of October. As before noticed, it is situated in the Firth of Clyde, on the small island of Pladda, near the south-west point of the island of Arran, in North Lat. 55° 30´ and Long. 5° 4´ west of London; the entrance of Campbeltown Loch bearing, by compass, W.NW. ¼ N., distant 18 miles; Island of Sana W., distant 20 miles; Craig of Ailsa SW. by S., distant 15 miles; entrance to Loch Ryan S.SW., distant 25 miles; and the Heads of Ayr E.SE., distant 16 miles. The light-room is elevated above the medium level of the sea 70 feet; and the light is seen from NE. by E. to NW. by W. and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: ~1791.~]

[Sidenote: Distinguishing light at Pladda.]

In order to distinguish Pladda Light-house from the light upon the Promontory of Kintyre on the one hand, and that upon the island of Cumbrae, further up the Firth of Clyde, and also from the Copeland light on the Irish coast, it was found necessary, in the course of the year 1791, to erect a small Light-room, immediately under the principal light, that, by shewing two distinct lights at this station, the one 20 feet higher than the other, it might be distinguishable from those above alluded to. This small light-room being rather of a temporary construction, the Board have it in view to erect one upon a more efficient plan, when certain repairs which are in contemplation at Pladda shall be made.

[Sidenote: Annual supply and inspection of the Lights.]

The Northern Light-houses being situated in parts of the country remote and inaccessible, it became necessary to arrange some systematic and proper plan for managing the ordinary business of the Board, which, at this time, had only one stated meeting, held by act of Parliament in the month of July annually. A special meeting was accordingly convened by the Secretary, in the month of March 1791; at which there were present, the Lord Advocate of Scotland; the Lord Provost of Edinburgh; the Sheriff of Aberdeen; the Sheriff of Renfrew; and the Sheriff of Orkney, Mr Charles Hope, now Lord President of the Court of Session. This meeting having taken into consideration the proper mode of supplying the light-houses, and of attending to the conduct of the light-keepers, it was resolved, That the engineer should charter a vessel annually, to carry a full complement of stores and other necessaries for the use of the lights, and such artificers, implements and materials as might, from time to time, be found necessary for making repairs at the light-houses; and also, that the engineer should annually visit each light-house, and report upon the state and condition of the buildings, and upon the conduct of the respective light-keepers in keeping the lights, and in the management of the stores and appurtenances committed to their charge; with power to dismiss them for neglect of duty.

[Sidenote: Light-keepers’ Salary.]

The light-keepers already engaged in the service, had been verbally informed by the engineer, that they would be paid L. 30 of yearly salary; and this meeting having before it a range of salaries paid to light-keepers both in England and Scotland, varying from L. 20 to upwards of L. 70, it was resolved, That in ordinary situations, the salary of the light-keepers in the service of the Northern Light-houses should be L. 30 _per annum_, with a piece of garden-ground and pasture for a cow, and a sufficient quantity of fuel for the use of their families.

[Sidenote: First voyage of the Engineer.]

[Sidenote: Light-house keeper dismissed the service.]

In consequence of this arrangement, a vessel of about 100 tons burden was chartered and fitted out with stores and other necessaries for the use of the Northern Light-houses; and in the course of the summer of 1791, Mr Smith made his first annual visit by sea to the light-houses--the journeys of the engineer having hitherto been performed chiefly by land. On this voyage, every thing was reported to be in good order at the several stations, excepting at the Light-house of North Ronaldsay, which he found to be very improperly kept: it appeared also that the light-keeper at this station had been embezzling the stores committed to his charge. This person was formerly a ship-master, who, finding it difficult to get employment in the line of his profession, had been very improperly recommended to the attention of the Light-house Board. Under circumstances of such misconduct, the engineer immediately dismissed him from the service, and his conduct was further taken cognizance of by the Sheriff of the county.

[Sidenote: Economical plan of the early Light-houses.]

The business of the Light-houses was now so arranged, that matters went on in a very prosperous and successful manner. So well, indeed, had the plans and buildings of their engineer been considered, and made to meet the slender funds of the Board, that, with an expenditure of little more than L. 10,000, five lights had been exhibited upon the coast. Though these buildings were unavoidably very much circumscribed in their accommodations, and even temporary in their construction, yet the speedy exhibition of the lights was of great benefit to navigation, while the improving state of the light-house duties enabled the Commissioners to extend their influence along a greater range of coast; and the different buildings have since been enlarged and completed in a much more substantial manner, by applying the surplus funds to these purposes.

[Sidenote: ~1793.~]

[Sidenote: Application for additional light-houses.]

In the year 1793, the prosperous state of funds induced and enabled the Commissioners to attend to the applications of mariners for additional light-houses on the coast. In particular a letter, to be afterwards more fully noticed, was addressed to the Light-house Board by Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane, then commanding his Majesty’s ship Hind upon the Leith station, setting forth the great benefit that would accrue to shipping, from the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. Representations were likewise made at this time by the merchants of Liverpool, regarding the propriety of erecting a light-house upon the Skerries, situated in the middle of the Pentland Firth , which separates the Orkney Islands from the Mainland of Caithness. The object of a light here, was to open this Firth as a passage to shipping in general, and to enable the mariner to avoid a circuitous and dangerous voyage to the northward of the Orkney Islands.

[Sidenote: State of the Light-house funds.]

At this period, however, the Commissioners could not venture to undertake a work of such magnitude and difficulty, as the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. The amount of the light-house duties at first was extremely limited; and though in a progressive state, yet, for 1789, as before stated, they only amounted to L. 249:14:6. For 1790, the sum was L. 1477:5:1; for 1791, it was L. 2736:9:2; for 1792, it rose to L. 3160:18:1. But in the year 1793, of which we are now treating, the duties rather declined, and they only netted L. 2868, 3s. 5d. The Commissioners were nevertheless enabled to pay off L. 4200, which, by the acts of 1786 and 1788, they had been empowered to borrow, and likewise to discharge the advances made by Sir William Forbes and Company; still leaving a balance of about L. 2000 of surplus duties in the hands of their treasurer. The funds being, therefore, still very limited, and only in a condition to enable the Board to erect a light-house of the ordinary construction, the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries was resolved on; and the further consideration of the Bell Rock light-house reserved, until the funds should be in a more advanced state.

_Pentland Skerries._

[Sidenote: Regarding the site of the Pentland Firth Light-house.]

Some difference of opinion arising among the gentlemen and merchants of Orkney, whether the light-house proposed for the Pentland Skerries should not rather be erected upon the island of Copinsha, situate about fifteen miles northward of the Portland Firth , the matter was referred to the opinion of the Association of Ship-owners of Liverpool, and to the Chambers of Commerce of Glasgow and Greenock, when these public bodies unanimously and strongly recommended the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries, as the site best calculated for a direction to the Pentland Firth ; which was accordingly fixed upon by the Board. To mark this Light-house from the other lights upon the coast, it was necessary to make it a Distinguishing-light, which was effected by the erection of a higher and lower light-house tower, respectively 80 and 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, built at the distance of 60 feet asunder, and each having a light-room with reflectors, so as to show two distinct stationary lights, for as yet the Revolving-light had not been introduced upon this coast.

[Sidenote: ~1794.~]

[Sidenote: The author’s first voyage to the north.]

The works at the Pentland Skerries were begun early in the spring of 1794. The masonry was executed by builders of Orkney; and the materials having been prepared, were partly landed on these small islands in the course of the preceding summer. The Skerries consist of two uninhabited islands, with some contiguous sunken rocks. They lie exposed to the uninterrupted force of the waves of the North Sea, and to the rapid tides and currents of the Pentland Firth , and present many convincing proofs of the wasting state of the land, by the action of the sea. The works here had been so laid out, that the towers should be in readiness for the erection of the light-rooms by the month of August; and it was expected that the lights would be ready for exhibition in the month of October. The author, to whose superintendance the completing of these light-houses was to be entrusted, as his first work for the Board, sailed from Leith on this service on the 2d July 1794; and after touching at Kinnaird Head Light-house, he landed at the Pentland Skerries on the 11th of that month, and found the masonry of the two light-house towers in such a state of forwardness, as to be then nearly ready for the light-rooms. In the month of September, these works were completed, and the lights were exhibited on the 1st day of October 1794.

These lights are from oil, with reflectors, and may be described as erected on the largest of the Pentland Skerries, in Lat. 58° 43´ and Long. 3° 3´ west of London; the northmost or highest light-room being elevated 100 feet, and the lower light-room 80 feet above the medium level of the sea. The two light-rooms, relatively to each other, bear S. SW. and N. NE., distant 60 feet. The bearings, as taken from the highest light-room, by compass, are the western extremity of the Little Pentland Skerry S. by W., distant 1¼ mile; extremity of the foul ground off that Skerry SE., distant 1½ mile; Duncan’s Bay Head in Caithness; W. SW. distant 4½ miles; Noss Head SW. by W., distant 14 miles; northmost point of the Island of Stroma NW. by W., distant 6½ miles; south-western extremity of the Loather Rock on the Orkney shore N. by W., distant 3½ miles; Island of Copinsha NE. by E. ¼ E., distant 17 miles.

[Sidenote: Loss of the sloop Elizabeth.]

The author, having remained to complete the works at the Pentland Skerries, and to see the house lighted, sailed from Orkney on the 9th of October, in the sloop Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day, the vessel got within three miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in Aberdeenshire; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, Mr Sinclair, the master, with much attention and kindness, landed the author, who continued his journey to Edinburgh by land. A very different fate, however, awaited his shipmates; for the Elizabeth having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven to Orkney, and ultimately lost, when all on board perished.

[Sidenote: Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch presented with pieces of Plate.]

In the affairs connected with the erection of light-houses in Orkney, Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr Riddoch, collector of the customs at Kirkwall, having respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble in the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to each of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of the services they had thus rendered to the public.

[Sidenote: Act for Incorporating the Commissioners.]

Some inconveniency having been experienced in conducting the business of the Light-house Board, in consequence of its not being an incorporated body, and not having a common seal, particularly in the holding of stock and other property, in laying out and investing the surplus funds arising from the light-house duties, application was made to Parliament, and an act passed in 1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57. erecting the Commissioners into a Board or Body-politic, by the name of “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;” and under that title to have perpetual succession, and hold a common seal.

[Sidenote: Additional Works at the first erected Light-houses.]

After the completion of these two light-houses on the Pentland Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed before the erection of any additional light-house was undertaken on the coast of Scotland. This delay was rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the necessity of extending the accommodation of the light-keepers at the different stations,--in making landing places and roads,--enclosing grounds,--and, in short, putting the whole establishment of the light-houses into a more complete and finished state.

[Sidenote: Light-House proposed as a direction for Cromarty Firth .]

In the mean time, several propositions for new light-houses were brought under the notice of the Commissioners. In the year 1797, for example, the late Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of a light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one of the principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great Britain. Mr Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a Beacon should be erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the dangerous channel of Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken for the entrance to Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and buoy for Dornoch, was considered by the Commissioners as not strictly in the high seas, and therefore not properly belonging to the concerns of the Board, and, together with the light-house, were delayed for the present, that attention might be paid to more urgent demands on other parts of the coast.

[Sidenote: Proposition for altering the site of Kinnaird Head Light-House.]

Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection of Kinnaird Head light-house, shipwrecks were still occurring on a dangerous reef of rocks called Rattray Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward of Kinnaird Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798, petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants and traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head would be much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray Head. This matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who accordingly made a survey of this part of the coast. After maturely considering the subject, it was deemed advisable to decline the removal of the light-house from Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely useful for directing ships into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and also to vessels making the land from the northward. Although it might not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters bound from the south, yet the Commissioners found, that it would be better, under all circumstances, to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station, and, at some future period, to erect an additional light upon this important part of the coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the south-eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.

_Start Point Beacon._

[Sidenote: ~1801.~]

[Sidenote: Numerous Wrecks on the Island of Sanday.]

Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney.]

In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.

[Sidenote: Quarries at Sanday and Eda.]

[Sidenote: Encroachments of the Sea upon the Land.]

[Sidenote: Of Ruble Building.]

[Sidenote: Houses built with Double walls.]

It having been ascertained that there was no workable sandstone on the island of Sanday, where the Beacon was to be erected, permission was granted by Mr Laing, the proprietor of the contiguous island of Eda, to open a quarry at Calf Sound, where sandstone of a pretty good quality was obtained. With a view to render this building substantially water-tight, it had been originally intended to make it wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses, technically called _ashlar_ or _aisler-work_, a term derived from the aisle of a church, where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda being about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent creeks or havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was found necessary to make only the principal stones of hewn-work, while the body of the work was executed in ruble-building, for which excellent materials were got at the Start Point, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Dundas, consisting of _sandstone-slate_, of a greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with shining particles of mica. The rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8 inches in thickness, and could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15 to 20 square feet. Indeed, the encroachments of the sea had heaped up immense quantities of these schistose stones at high-water mark, all round the Start Point, the shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of some large city. These stones, however, were more applicable for the purposes of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external work; for, after having been exposed on the beach for ages to the alternate changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they were found to have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and although the pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently open to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is, that houses built with _drift_-stones of this description, are said by the cottagers of these islands to keep out moisture much better when built with _puddle_ or clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which, under certain circumstances, is known to attract moisture, while the clay resists it. But after all the care that can be taken in building with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from the quarry, they still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are built in the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or _dip_, as the workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of wetness. I have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing moisture, until they have been _rough cast_,--an operation which is so very troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally renewed, that I have found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build the outward walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a comfortable house free of dampness.

[Sidenote: Laying the foundation stone of Beacon.]

The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house. Preparations were accordingly made;--the year of our Lord 1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft. The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.

[Sidenote: Rev. Walter Trail’s Address.]

“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building of incalculable value;--a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.--To the goodness of GOD, in the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the wind.--Consider the great national objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.--This day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.--Even you, my friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are strangers in a strange land.--It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but GOD only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every tongue and nation.”

The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of the least interesting parts of it.

[Sidenote: Beacon Completed.]

Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in circumference.--But this tower having been afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more particular specification of the building.

_Inchkeith Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1803.~]

Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many fatal accidents had occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from the want of a light to direct ships past the island of Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the course of the winter of 1801, from this cause, a very severe misfortune happened at the rocks lying off Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast, by the loss of the smack Aberdeen, Freeman, master, one of the traders bound from Aberdeen to London. This vessel had been put up the Firth in a storm, loaded with a general cargo, which was valued at upwards of L. 10,000, and had on board 13 passengers, besides the ship’s crew, all of whom perished, excepting the master, the mate, and a lady. So very distressing an accident, with other instances of a similar nature, produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also found, that vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered the Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet venture to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty of passing the island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in its neighbourhood. The mariner was thus obliged to _lie off and on_ in this narrow sea, without being able to run for the anchorage of Leith Roads till day-light: but, before morning, the wind perhaps had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe anchorage, he was too often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of a ship in this situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of Norway.

[Sidenote: Inchkeith Light-house resolved on.]