Chapter V: Introduction (2)

It was from considerations of this kind that an application was brought forward by the Corporation of the Trinity House of Leith, for the erection of a light-house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and rendezvous for his Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved upon the propriety and expediency of this measure in the year 1802. Various difficulties occurred about procuring the ground necessary for this establishment, not indeed with the noble proprietor of the island, the Duke of Buccleuch, who forthwith ordered every facility to be given to the work; but time was lost in arranging matters with his Grace’s agent. It was not, therefore, till the summer of the year 1803, that the building on Inchkeith commenced, and the masonry of the light-house was not ready for the light-room till the following year, when the light was exhibited on the 1st day of September 1804. Its position is described as follows:

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Light-house.]

“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith, situate in the Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian, in North Lat. 56° 2´, and Long. 3° 8´. west of London, is elevated 220 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light is from oil with reflectors, and will be seen from every point of the compass as a _Stationary light_” (since altered to a _Revolving light_, as shall be afterwards noticed). “From the light-house Ely-ness bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles; Light of May E. ½ N., distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14 miles; Craig Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour Light SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile; Ox-Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N., distant 6½ miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles; Kinghorn-ness N. NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”

[Sidenote: Originally proposed to be a Leading light.]

This light-house was originally proposed to have been made a double or _leading light_, to guide ships up the Firth , and especially past the dangerous rock called the Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above Queensferry; but it was thought advisable to erect a light, in the first instance, upon the top of the island, and to defer the erection of a lower or western light till the effect of a single light should be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the light on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second light-house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.

[Sidenote: Light duty for Inchkeith modified.]

By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house Board is entitled to take the full duties of three halfpence _per_ ton, from the local trade of the Firth of Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of which, only one halfpenny _per_ ton is exacted from such vessels as are not liable to the duty, in consequence of passing some other of the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this light-house, and the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are exacted, gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of the country.

[Sidenote: Accommodation of Light-keepers’ houses extended.]

It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of Inchkeith Light-house, forms a new era in the works of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; which, as formerly observed, had been necessarily executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan that could be devised, and with such materials as could be easily transported, and most speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls of shipping, and answer the very limited state of the funds. But from the thriving condition of the trade of the country, the yearly duties which, in 1790, amounted only to L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802 encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore, considered advisable, from its being ultimately more economical, to erect and finish the several works of the light-house Board in the most substantial manner, and more like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.

[Sidenote: Houses covered with leaden roofs.]

[Sidenote: Disadvantage of slated roofs.]

From the vicinity of Inchkeith to sandstone quarries, the buildings there were executed of aislar masonry. A platform roof covered with lead, and defended by a parapet wall, was adopted for the light-keepers’ house, instead of a slated roof, with garrets of the common construction; a slated roof being not only more liable to be injured by high winds, but when the attic apartments of such houses are occupied, the premises became more exposed to accident from fire. The slated roof, with iron nails, is also subject to decay, owing to the saline particles with which the air is impregnated, and the sprays of the sea, which, even in such situations as Inchkeith, are often blown over the island, though the site of the light-house is about 175 feet in height. Indeed, at all the original light-house stations in the north, the nails were soon rusted, and the slates getting loose, were often blown off in great numbers, so that in the very depth of Winter, the light-keepers have been obliged to make such a requisition as the following: “A slater is much wanted here, to repair the roof of the house, as upwards of 50 slates have been blown away during the late gales.” Instead, also, of a dwelling-house consisting of only two small apartments as formerly, the house at Inchkeith has four rooms, with other conveniencies, laid out for the accommodation of the families of a principal light-keeper and an assistant, who are now appointed to the charge of each of the Northern Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Construction of Light rooms improved.]

[Sidenote: Rendered Fire-proof.]

An entire change also took place at this period upon the construction of the Light-rooms and the reflecting apparatus, as well as in the extension and enlargement of the accommodation for the light-keepers. The early light-rooms were constructed wholly of timber, excepting the window-sash frames, which were made of cast-iron. The outside of the wooden cupola, covered with sheet copper, and the ceiling and floor with fire-proof plates of tinned iron. But it soon appeared that this construction was liable to great objections, particularly to the risk of accidental fire. The timber roof being also unavoidably shut up from the air, and exposed to a degree of heat sufficient to dry it to the state of tinder, its strength and fibrous qualities were soon lost, and the buildings in danger of being destroyed by the storms of winter. At Inchkeith, on the contrary, the roof is framed of iron, and covered with copper, and the floor is laid with flag-stones; while the window-frames, and all the materials exposed to the immediate action of the weather, are made of copper; the windows are glazed with plates of polished glass, measuring 29 inches by 18 inches, and ¼ of an inch in thickness, instead of sash panes of crown-glass, measuring only 12 inches by 8 inches, by which so many astragals were unavoidably introduced into the windows, that much of the light was obstructed and lost.

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Silvered Mirror-glass.]

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Copper, plated with Silver.]

[Sidenote: The use of Argand lamps and Spermaceti Oil introduced.]

The reflectors of the first of the Northern Light-houses were formed to the parabolic curve, upon principles susceptible of considerable accuracy; their powers were, however, small from their reflecting surfaces being composed of facets of silvered mirror-glass, and one point only of each facet coinciding with the curve of the parabola. As many of the rays are thus lost or weakened by transmission through the glass of the reflector, the light is much less brilliant than when reflected from a metallic speculum of a uniform parabolic figure, of a more white and dense body, such as silver. Another objection to mirror-glass reflectors, is the great number of interstices or subdivisions between the pieces of glass, which unavoidably induces a want of cleanliness and uniformity in the reflecting surface as a whole. The improvement upon this part of the reflecting apparatus, as more recently fitted up, consists in employing sheets of copper, plated or coated with silver, which, with much labour and great nicety of workmanship, are formed as nearly as may be into the parabolic curve,--a subject to which we shall again recur, in treating of the reflectors for the Bell Rock Light-house. Instead, also, of whale oil, and the use of the Common lamp, spermaceti oil, and the Argand lamp, were introduced at Inchkeith. Upon these principles, all the new erections of the Northern Light-houses are constructed; and such of the original light-houses, as require considerable repairs, are directed by the Board to be altered to the improved construction. But the erection of such a light-house as that of Inchkeith, in place of requiring an expenditure of only about L. 1000 like the original establishments, cost upwards of L. 5000.

[Sidenote: Inscription on Inchkeith Light-house.]

The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before the late Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired from the situation of Engineer for the Northern Light-houses, and being the first of the light-houses erected upon the coast of Scotland on the recently improved principles, it is thought proper to give a plan and elevation of the house and offices, in one of the plates of this work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete light-house establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of the light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:--“For the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this Light-house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803, and lighted on the 1st of September 1804. THOMAS SMITH, _Engineer_.”

[Sidenote: Pilots and Shipwrecked Seamen receive shelter.]

As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room is provided for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck upon the coast, in the neighbourhood of any of the light-house stations, from the more extended state of the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only directed to be lodged in the best manner that the circumstances of the case will admit, but, in necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners have even been allowed a sum of money by the Light-house Board, to clothe and carry them to their respective homes. In this way, it has not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the keepers of the Northern Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen, to succour many poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and unlucky individuals of _water parties_, when driven by stress of weather to these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied forms, it will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of protecting the navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a chief part of the design of the _Fire Towers_ and _Nautical Colleges_ of the ancients, is thus in some measure restored.

_Start Point Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1806.~]

[Sidenote: Shipwrecks still take place on Sanday.]

[Sidenote: Striking examples of this.]

Notwithstanding the precautions which had been taken to prevent the frequent occurrence of shipwreck upon the island of Sanday, by the erection of a Beacon or Tower of masonry on the Start Point, the loss of ships did not appear to be diminished. It had even become proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe, “that if wrecks were to happen, they might as well be sent to the poor island of Sanday as any where else.” On this and the neighbouring islands, the inhabitants have certainly had their share of wrecked goods; for here the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in almost every form. For example, although quarries are to be met with generally in these islands, and the stones are very suitable for building dikes, yet instances occur of the land being inclosed, even to a considerable extent, with ship timbers. The author has actually seen a park paled round, chiefly with cedar wood and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras built ship; and in one island, after the wreck of a ship laden with wine, the inhabitants have been known to take claret to their barley meal porridge, instead of their usual beverage. On complaining to one of the pilots of the badness of his boat’s sails, he replied to the author with some degree of pleasantry, “Had it been His (God’s) will that you came na here wi’ these lights, we might a’ had better sails to our boats and more o’ other things.” It may further be noticed, that when some of Lord Dundas’s farms are to be let in these islands, a competition takes place for the lease, and it is _bona fide_ understood, that a much higher rent is paid than the lands would otherwise give, were it not for the chance of making considerably by the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the shores of the respective farms. The author was so struck with some of these circumstances, that he collected, and shall here insert a list of shipwrecks for the twelve years immediately following the erection of North Ronaldsay light-house, in procuring which he was obligingly assisted by the Rev. William Grant, minister of Cross-kirk parish, including the island of North Ronaldsay, and part of Sanday.

[Sidenote: List of Shipwrecks for Twelve Years.]

LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay, Sanday
and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately after the
erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.

Key: A: Year. B: Voyage. C: Cargo. D: Tonnage. E: Supposed Value of Ship and Cargo.

+-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ | A | B | C | D | E | +-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ |1789.|Norway to America, |Spirits, &c. | 150 | L. 3500 0 0| |1790.|Hamburgh to do. |Cordage, &c. | 100 | 2800 0 0| |1792.|Norway to Wales, |Wood and Iron, | 90 | 1100 0 0| |---- |Sweden to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3100 0 0| |---- | Do. to Greenock, |Timber, | 400 | 3400 0 0| |1793.|Norway to Spain, |Fish and Oil, | 100 | 2000 0 0| |---- |Copenhagen to Santa Cruz,|Silks, &c. | 250 | 35,000 0 0| |1794.|Copenhagen to Surinam, |Muslins, &c. | 250 | 20,000 0 0| |---- | Do. to Dundee, |Flax, &c. | 90 | 2000 0 0| |1795.| Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 300 | 12,200 0 0| |1796.| Do. to Liverpool, |Timber, | 250 | 2500 0 0| |---- | Do. to Whitehaven,|Timber, | 150 | 1300 0 0| |---- |Liverpool to Ostend, |Wine and Rum, | 400 | 15,300 0 0| |1797.|Baltic to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3000 0 0| |1798.|Sweden to Hull, |Timber and Iron, | 200 | 2500 0 0| |---- |Norway to Liverpool. |Timber, | 200 | 1800 0 0| |---- | Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 200 | 5000 0 0| |---- |Altona to Do. |Spirits and Cloth,| 450 | 18,000 0 0| |---- |London to Gibraltar, |Stores, | 300 | 5000 0 0| |1799.| Do. to Dublin, |Staves, | 150 | 2200 0 0| |1800.|Hamburgh to America, |Cambric and Linen,| 200 | 45,000 0 0| |---- |Dantzic to Liverpool, |Timber, | 900 | 10,000 0 0| | ----------| |22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value L. 196,400 0 0| +---------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Sidenote: Start Point Tower proposed to be converted into a Light-house.]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house to be converted into a Beacon.]

This list of shipwrecks strongly points out the dangerous nature of the navigation of the seas and friths of the northern islands of Orkney. From a consideration of these numerous accidents, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year, and seeing the mangled remains of some fine ships which still appeared upon the island of Sanday, the author was induced to bring this matter again under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in his report to the Board in the year 1805, when he proposed that the Start Point Beacon should be converted into a light-house, and that North Ronaldsay light should be discontinued, and its tower converted into a beacon, as wrecks were found to happen comparatively seldom upon that island, while hardly a year passed without instances of this kind on the island of Sanday; for, owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island, the lowness and whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful manner in which the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water, it becomes even in day-light a deception, and has often been fatally mistaken for an open sea. The removal of the light from North Ronaldsay to Sanday, was also calculated to be equally, if not more, useful to the navigation of North Ronaldsay Firth ; the Start Point being only four miles from the sunken rock called the Reef-dyke, as will be seen from the general chart of the coast which accompanies this work. It therefore appeared that if only a single light were allowed for the protection of this coast, it would be much better upon Sanday than on North Ronaldsay.

[Sidenote: Opinion of persons conversant with the Navigation of these Seas.]

On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion of persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly, when on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted the subject to the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of the Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising for several months off these islands, by order of Government, for intelligence relative to the motions of the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a landing on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr Riddoch, Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at Kirkwall; to Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday; and to the ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all united in opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of Sanday.

[Sidenote: Light-house resolved on.]

This measure having been resolved on by the Board, the plans were remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr William Rae, (now Sir William Rae, Bart. Lord Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the county of Orkney. The works at the Start Point were accordingly commenced early in the summer of 1805; by the month of November the light-room was finished, and the light exhibited on the 1st day of January 1806. Intimation was at the same time given to the public, that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the year 1803, upon the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for preventing the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had been converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: Description of Start Point Light.]

The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of Orkney, in North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of London, from which North Ronaldsay light-house Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles, and the Lamb Head of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light at the Start Point is from oil with reflectors, elevated 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, and is visible from all points of the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a favourable state of the atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other lights on this coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light, without colour_, exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and more obscure, until it be totally eclipsed.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and Artificers sail for Leith in the Traveller.]

The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-house, and the erection of houses for the light-keepers, were placed under the management of Mr George Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed with every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and such of the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness on the mainland of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a passage to the southward. The party consisted of six in number; and Charles Peebles, the foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to his native place, took his passage in a vessel bound from Stromness to Anstruther, while Mr George Peebles, and the remaining four men, embarked on board of a schooner, called the Traveller, Cruickshanks master, bound for Leith.

[Sidenote: The Traveller is wrecked.]

[Sidenote: Captain Manby’s Apparatus much wanted.]

This vessel sailed with a fair wind early on the 24th of December 1806. On the following morning they got sight of Kinnaird Head light-house, in Aberdeenshire, and had the prospect of speedily reaching the Firth of Forth; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, increased to a tremendous gale, which did much damage on the coast. The Traveller immediately _put about_, and steered in quest of some safe harbour in Orkney. At two o’clock in the afternoon, she passed through the Pentland Firth , and got into the bay of Long Hope; but could not reach the proper anchorage; and, at three o’clock, both anchors were _let go_ in an outer roadstead. The storm still continuing with unabated force, the cables parted or broke, and the vessel drifted on the island of Flotta. The utmost efforts of those on board to pass a rope to the shore, with the assistance of the inhabitants of the island, proved ineffectual, (for want of some apparatus like Captain Manby’s); the vessel struck upon a shelving rock, and, night coming on, sunk in three fathoms water.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and four of the Artificers are drowned.]

Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted to swim ashore, but in the darkness of the night, they either lost their way, or were dashed upon the rocks by the surge of the sea; while those who retained hold of the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the piercing coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died before morning,--when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of the wreck of no fewer than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies, the mournful subjects of the care and pity of the islanders. In one of these wrecks, all on board were lost; and, in the Traveller, only the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from whom these particulars were learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from the severity of the blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone, he clung to the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed in the morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.

A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther, from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles Peebles escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate of his brother and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house service lost a most active and faithful servant, whose next charge would have been at the operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From the peculiar circumstances of this case, the Commissioners were pleased to grant small annuities to the mother of the foreman, and also to the family of another of the sufferers.

_Bell Rock Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1807.~]

In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory account of the Northern Light-houses, we may observe that the attention of the Commissioners was occupied with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9, and 10. But as the detail of the operations of these four years forms the chief object of this work, it is not necessary that they should be further noticed here. We therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in the order of time.

_North Ronaldsay Beacon._

[Sidenote: ~1809.~]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light extinguished, and its Tower converted into a Beacon.]

It having been considered superfluous to have two light-houses on this part of the coast, within 8 miles of each other, the Light-house Board resolved to extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was accordingly intimated in the newspapers of the principal ports of the United kingdom that the light on the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, situated in North Lat. 59° 40´, Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would be discontinued, and cease to be lighted from and after the 1st day of June 1809; but that the Light-house Tower would be preserved as a Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a Circular Ball of masonry, measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-room. This beacon bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of Sanday, N.NE., ½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be lighted as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the low shores of the North Isles of Orkney.

_Isle of May._

[Sidenote: ~1814.~]

[Sidenote: Light of May first Lighted 1635.]

[Sidenote: Patent ratified 1641.]

The island of May holds a prominent position at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, as will be seen by referring to the charts of the coast which accompany this work. From its connection also with the estuary leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal ports of her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest public light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed acts of the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was granted, in the reign of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and John Cunninghame of Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of May, and collect certain duties from shipping for its maintenance: The patent for this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in 1641.

[Sidenote: Much complained of after the Union.]

The duties leviable for the light of May produced much dissatisfaction after the Union, English and Irish vessels having been charged with double rates, as foreigners. There was, besides, a general dislike to any thing that was payable in the form of a tax being held as private property. This light being also a coal-fire, exposed in an open choffer to the vicissitudes of the weather, was found to be very insufficient. After the appointment of a Light-house Board in Scotland, in the year 1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire that the light of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that it might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the spirit and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious distinction between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to the light-house duties, might be done away; and also that there might be some prospect of the duties being modified, and ultimately ceasing. In the year 1809, the author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, the navigation of this part of the coast would still be very incomplete, unless the light of May were improved, took an opportunity of bringing this subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; but it did not then appear that this could be taken up by the Board, unless it were at the instance of the proprietor.

[Sidenote: Family of Scotstarvit become Proprietors of the Island.]

[Sidenote: Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.]

[Sidenote: Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.]

The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the property of the island and light of May came by purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of Westbarnes, in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging the choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light with reflectors. Statements to this effect having been laid before the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh, a Committee of that body visited the island in the year 1786, and reported on the state of the light. In consequence of the representation of this Committee, the choffer was enlarged to the capacity of a square of three feet; and, instead of about 200 tons of coal _per annum_, formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now doubled. The Chamber further recommended, that the stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the open air on the island, should in future be kept under cover, and that the supply should be invariably got from the collieries of Wemyss, which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light, Wemyss coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the Continent.

[Sidenote: Light of May considered the best Coal-Light in the kingdom.]

[Sidenote: Portland Family get possession of the Island.]

These conditions were most readily complied with by the tutors of Miss Scott, the proprietor; and the light of May, from that period, was found to be very considerably improved, the choffer for containing the fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-house choffer on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this period, may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very unsteady, in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns and other accidental open fires upon the neighbouring shores, were also apt to be mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such dangerous mistakes, there was no other method but the introduction of a light from oil, with reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room. The Trinity-house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial to this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose possession the light and Isle of May had come by his Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless applications urged from time to time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the light altered, the measure was at length given up by them as hopeless.

[Sidenote: Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates.]

[Sidenote: Their prize-ship arrives in safety.]

[Sidenote: Nine men drowned.]

Early in the morning of the 19th day of December 1810, however, two of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates Nymphen and Pallas, had the misfortune to be wrecked near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed, of the light of a lime-kiln on the coast of Haddingtonshire having been mistaken for the coal light of the island of May. These frigates having come along the northern coast of Scotland, their situation, as may be seen from the annexed maps, was very different from that of ships approaching the land from a distant voyage, who are much more liable to mistakes of this kind. But what renders the error in this instance more unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in the afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the same time and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under the command of a Midshipman,--who, in his course up the Firth of Forth, saw the Bell Rock floating light, (for at this time the light-house was not completed),--then the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith in succession, and before day-light in the morning of the 19th he anchored his little vessel in the Roads. In reporting the prize to the Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman expressed his surprise that the frigates had not reached their station before him. In the course of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express arrived, stating the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had happened in the course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of Dunbar. Soon afterwards, another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral the loss of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same mistake. It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed in company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their similar fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late in the day on which the accidents happened. It was, however, so far fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks, only nine men were lost of their joint crews, amounting to about 600 men; all of whom might probably have perished, from the rocky and exposed shore on which they were stranded, had not the weather been very moderate.

[Sidenote: Lord Melville applies to the Light-house Board about the Isle of May Light.]

[Sidenote: Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;]

[Sidenote: And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees, which is rejected.]

[Sidenote: The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.]

Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates, valued at not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount Melville, first Lord of the Admiralty, applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, proposing that the light of May should be assumed as one of the northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations. It may here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident, the Duke of Portland entertained serious intentions of altering this light; and the author had been employed to report to his Grace on its alteration, from the use of pit-coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which he had estimated at the annual sum of L. 600. The communication from the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the Light-house Commissioners and the Duke of Portland, who proposed to give the Light-house Board an allowance of L. 600 _per annum_, for taking burden of the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to levy the duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the Commissioners, who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or constitution of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could only take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to lessen the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present state of the light-house funds, this purchase could only be made by a special act of Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government: as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and the right to the light-duties, was unavoidably great, amounting to no less than Sixty Thousand Guineas.

[Sidenote: Memorial presented to the Admiralty.]

[Sidenote: Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.]

In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, was directed to acquaint Mr Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent, that the Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light of May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house Board; when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance and support to a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island of May. This bill was accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed in the Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be made from the Treasury to the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses, and empowering them to make the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the sum of L. 60,000.

[Sidenote: Duty of the Light of May reduced by the Act of 1814.]

This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to all _British_ vessels, from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny _per_ ton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.

[Sidenote: Additional Apartments at the Isle of May.]

As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds in occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.

[Sidenote: Notice given of the alterations at Isle of May and Inchkeith.]

In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was published.

[Sidenote: Description of the Light of May.]

[Sidenote: Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.]

“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´, and Long. 2° 36´ west of London. From the light-house, Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E. ½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple Rocks lying off Dunbar, S. by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being formerly from coal, exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was discontinued on the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light from oil, with reflectors, known to mariners as a _Stationary Light_, was exhibited. The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous to the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore similar to the old tower in point of height. The new light is defended from the weather in a glazed light-room, and has a uniformly _steady_ appearance, resembling a star of the first magnitude, and is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of about seven leagues, and intermediately according to the state of the atmosphere.”--The old light-house tower on the Island of May, has been reduced in height to about 20 feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has been converted into a _guard-room_ like that upon Inchkeith, for the use and conveniency of pilots and fishermen.

_Inchkeith Revolving Light._

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Revolving Light.]

The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page 25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May island to the Bell Rock.

The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light known to mariners as a _Revolving light without colour_, on the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.

_Corsewall._

[Sidenote: ~1815.~]

[Sidenote: Additional Light proposed for the western coast on Corsewall Point.]

It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses, the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch Ryan.

[Sidenote: Light-houses necessary for the navigation of the Irish Channel.]

In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the coast.

[Sidenote: Foundation-stone of Corsewall Light-house laid.]

After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.

[Sidenote: ~1816.~]

[Sidenote: Light-house finished.]

The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the autumn, and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.

[Sidenote: Description of Corsewall Light.]

“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light with colour_, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights, respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a distance.”

_Isle of Man._

[Sidenote: Rate of Light-house duties for the Isle of Man.]

The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be high, a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Author’s Report on this subject.]

Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island, where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthing _per_ ton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”

[Sidenote: Scotch Light-house Board applied to for lights on the Isle of Man.]

When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of one farthing _per_ ton was considered a sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of the Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.

[Sidenote: Act of 1815.]

This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons, and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.

[Sidenote: Difficulty in fixing the position of the Isle of Man lights.]

In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position, called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main Island.

[Sidenote: A person stationed on the Island to observe the state of the weather.]