Chapter IV (3)

Before leaving Leith Roads, the muster-roll was called, to see that all hands were on board; and we also shipped an additional seaman. The vessel, therefore, required a great stock of provisions and water, and, from her very hampered situation, with the stores and apparatus of various kinds which she had on board, it became necessary to embrace every opportunity of filling up the stock of water, as landsmen use a much greater quantity of that indispensable article for every purpose than seamen. Mr Taylor, who commanded the Tender, and whose attention in this respect was quite indefatigable, sent the boat ashore at Anstruther, at a very early hour this morning, for an additional supply.

[Sidenote: Work continued on the Rock till midnight.]

Throughout these twenty-four hours, the winds were variable and the weather was hazy. At 6 A. M. the Sir Joseph got under weigh, and at 11 was again made fast to the southern buoy at the Bell Rock. Though it was now late in the tide, the writer being anxious to ascertain the state of things after the gale, landed with the artificers, to the number of forty-four. Every thing was found in an entire state; but, as the tide was nearly gone, only half an hour’s work had been got when the site of the building was overflowed. During the period of high-water, the boats were employed in bringing stores and provisions from on board the Smeaton, which had also returned from Arbroath, whither she had run for shelter. In the evening the boats again landed at 9, and, after a good tide’s-work of three hours, with torch-light, the work was left off at midnight.

[Sidenote: Appearance of the Rock at night.]

To the distant shipping, the appearance of things under night on the Bell Rock, when the work was going forward, must have been very remarkable, especially to those who were strangers to the operations. Mr John Reid, principal light-keeper, who also acted as master of the Floating-light during the working months at the rock, described the appearance of the numerous lights situate so low in the water, when seen at the distance of two or three miles, as putting him in mind of Milton’s description of the fiends in the lower regions; adding, “for it seems greatly to surpass Will-o’-the-Wisp, or any of those earthly spectres of which we have so often heard.”

[Sidenote: Sunday, 12th.]

The weather was somewhat blowy to-day, and the wind veered from E. to S.W. The boats landed at a quarter past 9 this morning, but not without considerable difficulty, owing to a heavy swell of sea which accompanied the change of wind. After continuing at work for three hours and a half at the site of the building, and the fixtures for the railways, the water came in upon the artificers, and the boats left the rock with all hands, after having experienced some difficulty at the entrance of the eastern landing creek, by the breach of the sea. In this respect, the larger boats of the new Tender were not found to be so well adapted for pulling through a swell of sea in these narrow creeks, as the smaller boats of the Floating-light. The breadth of the former being greater, the oars were more apt to get entangled with the sea-weed and jutting points of the rock, so that it was with difficulty they could be equally pulled on each side; and if they did not exactly stem the sea, but got a preponderance to one side, the waves were apt to throw them upon the shelving rocks. Smaller boats, under these particular circumstances, would have been more handy, but of two evils we are often left to choose the least, and the larger boats were found to be more generally useful. For the conveniency of accommodating a greater number of artificers, it was necessary to have the boats of as large dimensions as the Tender could stow; it being hardly possible in this service to have more than two upon deck, and one over the stern.

[Sidenote: Sixty persons on the quarter-deck at prayers to-day.]

About 1 P.M. the boats returned to the Tender in safety; and prayers were soon afterwards read upon deck, when all hands, including the boats crews from the Floating-light and Smeaton, being present, they counted sixty individuals. Owing to the difficulty experienced in getting clear of the rock this morning, and the swell of the sea still continuing, a landing was not attempted in the evening.

[Sidenote: Monday, 13th.]

The wind blew fresh from the S.W. this morning, and the tides were again getting into the state of neap; yet the ebb was very considerable yesterday, and some parts of the rock were even dry about half an hour before the calculated time. The boats landed to-day at 11, and left the Rock again at half-past 2 o’clock P. M. The artificers were again landed in the evening, but the tide did not leave the foundation-pit. All hands, however, were employed on the higher parts of the rock, in the tracks of the railways, where bat-holes were to bore and seats for the cast-iron props or supports of the railways to level. After being employed in this manner for an hour and a half, the boats returned to the Tender.

[Sidenote: Artificers appear backward in landing on the Rock to-day.]

From the difficulties attending the landing on the rock, owing to the breach of sea which had for days past been around it, the artificers showed some backwardness at getting into the boats this morning; but after a little explanation this was got over. It was always observable, that for some time after any thing like danger had occurred at the Rock, the workmen became much more cautious, and on some occasions their timidity was rather troublesome. It fortunately happened, however, that, along with the writer’s assistants and the sailors, there were also some of the artificers themselves who felt no such scruples, and in this way these difficulties were the more easily surmounted. In matters where life is in danger, it becomes necessary to treat even unfounded prejudices with tenderness, as an accident, under certain circumstances, would not only have been particularly painful to those giving directions, but have proved highly detrimental to the work, especially in the early stages of its advancement.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 14th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails for Arbroath.]

The wind was at south this morning, accompanied with very heavy showers of rain; and though the boats effected a landing at 12 noon; yet, during the whole tide, there was not less depth than 15 inches of water on the highest part of the site of the building, while the sea was continually ranging into it. The artificers were, therefore, employed on the higher parts of the eastern railway-track. After an hour and three-quarters work, the boats returned to the Tender, which had already cast off from her moorings, and kept plying about till they left the rock with the artificers, when she immediately sailed for Arbroath, and got into the harbour at 6 P. M. Here the artificers were employed in the work-yard for six days, until the return of spring-tides. During this interval ashore, the smiths were busily employed in giving the picks and other tools a thorough repair. Every measure was also adopted that could possibly facilitate the fitting up of the railways, without the aid of which the blocks of stone could not possibly be conveyed along the rugged surface of the rock after they were landed.

[Sidenote: First entire course removed from the platform.]

The operations at the rock, both in the preparation of the foundation of the building, and in the fitting up of the railways for landing the materials, became more and more urgent as the work advanced ashore. The first course had now been removed from the platform, and the greater part of the second was laid in its place; and, in the course of three weeks, it was also expected to be in readiness to ship for the rock, while a number of the higher courses were in a considerable state of forwardness. Some of the Aberthaw limestone having been burnt, and reduced to a state of powder, it was put into casks, while equal quantities of pozzolano and clean sharp sand were also made up in the same manner, to be used in building up the inequalities on the south east or lowest part of the margin of the foundation-pit, that by this means the water might be more speedily pumped out, and a longer period of the tide obtained for carrying on the work.

[Sidenote: Trial of the landing apparatus.]

It being apparent, from the present state of things, that we should be ready for building in the course of the next spring-tides, if the weather proved favourable, it was necessary to have all the apparatus for landing the stones at the rock in a working state. While at Arbroath, the writer had a trial made of one of the new praams or stone-lighters, by towing her into the bay of Arbroath, with a large stone upon deck, where the sloop Smeaton had been previously anchored with her gaff-boom and tackle rigged. This experiment was made in pretty rough weather, when the block of stone was lifted with the tackle in and out of the Smeaton’s hold, and again placed on the praam’s deck, as was to be done in the operation of landing at the rock. The apparatus is represented in Plate XI., and the trial was highly satisfactory, the tackle requiring only some trifling alterations. The Smeaton was then brought into the harbour and trimmed with ballast, consisting of pieces of granite, neatly fitted into her hold, over which a platform was laid, which completed her for the service of taking the stones from Arbroath to the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Monday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails for the Rock.]

Things on shore having been thus arranged, the writer again embarked on the 20th in the Sir Joseph Banks Tender, and sailed for the Bell Rock at 1 P. M., accompanied by the sloop Smeaton, and having on board of both vessels sixty-two artificers and seamen. At 8 the Floating-light was hailed, and at 9 the Tender and Smeaton were made fast to their respective buoys.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 21st.]

[Sidenote: Fifty-eight artificers land.]

At 3 o’clock this morning, the bell was rung, as a signal for landing at the rock. From the number of artificers, it required considerable management and exertion on the part of the landing-master to get them properly seated in the four boats belonging to the Tender, the Smeaton, and Floating-light, which last attended the rock during the morning tides, and assisted in all the operations of the landing-master’s department. At 4 o’clock fifty-eight persons landed; but the tides being extremely languid, the water only left the higher parts of the rock, and no work could be done at the site of the building. A third forge was, however, put in operation, during a short time, for the greater conveniency of sharpening the picks and irons, and for purposes connected with the preparations for fixing the railways on the rock.

[Sidenote: Advantage of a Bell as a signal at the Rock.]

The weather towards the evening became thick and foggy, and there was hardly a breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the water; had it not therefore been the noise from the anvils of the smiths who had been left on the Beacon throughout the day, which afforded a guide for the boats, a landing could not have been attempted this evening, especially with such a company of artificers. This circumstance confirmed the writer’s opinion with regard to the propriety of connecting large bells to be rung with machinery in the light-house, to be tolled day and night during the continuance of foggy weather, by which the mariner may be forewarned of too near an approach to the Rock, while every distant object is obscured in the mist.

The tides went so little back at the Rock to-day, that no work was done excepting to the railways; it being impossible to pump the water out of the foundation-pit, as the tide never left the south-eastern margin of it. After remaining two hours, all hands returned towards the Tender, where guns were occasionally fired, horns sounded, and the ship’s bell tolled, as signals for the boats to find their way from the Rock to the vessels; and, in this manner, the whole party got safely on board about 8 o’clock P. M.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 22d.]

At 6 A. M. the artificers landed, but the foundation could only be partially cleared of water, so as to enable a few hands, standing ankle-deep in water, to work round the edges where the site of the Light-house was highest. After two and a half hours’ work, the boats, with the artificers, returned to their respective ships.

[Sidenote: Building materials landed for the first time this season.]

This morning several casks of pozzolano, lime and sand were landed, to make mortar, in order to build round the lower edges of the foundation-pit. This being something like an approximation to the long wished-for commencement of building the Light-house, the artificers thought the opportunity too good to pass over in silence, and the casks were accordingly landed under a salute of three hearty cheers. At half past 6 P. M. the boats again landed upon the rock, but, even when the tide was at the lowest, the water stood to the depth of 18 inches upon the site of the building, and no work was done. This was rather a relief to the smiths, who having no irons to sharp, got rapidly forward with the necessary fixtures for the railways.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 23d.]

[Sidenote: Small ruble walls built instead of cofferdam.]

The weather continued to be extremely mild, and the winds were generally from the eastward and southward, accompanied with thick and hazy weather, which, in communicating with the rock, was not only irksome but even dangerous. At 7 o’clock this morning, the tide proving more favourable, the artificers began to work. At 9 the rock was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the Tender after two hours’ work. Part of the operations of this morning’s tide consisted in building up the crevices and inequalities of the rock round the margin of the foundation, with pozzolano mortar, and the chips produced from the excavation, with a view to dam out the water. These little walls varied from six inches to eighteen inches in height; a small sluice or aperture being formed in one of them by which the water, during ebb-tide, was allowed to drain off.

It formed part of the writer’s original design, as formerly noticed, to erect a cast-iron coffer-dam of about five feet in height, round the site of the building; but the surface of the rock was so irregular, that the difficulty of tightening it, and also of emptying the contained water, so as to get the benefit of it during ebb-tide, would have been so great, that, taking these circumstances into account, together, with the loss of time which would attend the erection of such a preparatory work, the idea of a coffer-dam was laid aside, soon after entering upon the actual execution of the work.

[Sidenote: Inconveniencies of foggy weather.]

The boats landed this evening, when the artificers had again two hours’ work. The weather still continuing very thick and foggy, more difficulty was experienced in getting on board of the vessels to-night, than had occurred on any previous occasion, owing to a light breeze of wind which carried the sound of the bell, and the other signals, made on board of the vessels, away from the Rock. Having, fortunately, made out the position of the sloop Smeaton, at the N.E. buoy,--to which we were much assisted by the barking of the ship’s dog, we parted with the Smeaton’s boat, when the boats of the Tender took a fresh departure for that vessel, which lay about half a mile to the south-westward. Yet such is the very deceiving state of the tides, that although there was a small binnacle and compass in the landing-master’s boat, we had, nevertheless, passed the Sir Joseph a good way, when, fortunately, one of the sailors catched the sound of a blowing-horn. The only fire-arms on board, were a pair of swivels of one inch caliber; but it is quite surprising how much the sound is lost in foggy weather, as the report was heard but at a very short distance. The sound, from the explosion of gunpowder, is so instantaneous, that the effect of the small guns was not so good as either the blowing of a horn, or the tolling of a bell, which afforded a more constant and steady direction for the pilot. It may here be noticed, that larger guns would have answered better, but these must have induced the keeping of a greater stock of gunpowder, which, in a service of this kind, might have been attended with risk. A better signal would have been a bugle-horn, the tremulous sound of which produces a more powerful effect in fog, than the less sonorous and more sudden report of ordnance.

[Sidenote: Friday, 24th.]

The artificers landed to-day, both with the morning and evening tides. During the first, they had two hours and three-quarters, and in the latter, two hours and a quarter, making together five hours work; the weather still continuing thick and foggy, with the wind at south-east.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 25th.]

The boats landed this morning at a quarter from 8 o’clock, and the artificers left off work at half-past 10. During the evening’s tide, the operations were again continued with torch-light, from half-past 7 till 11 o’clock P. M., having to-day had four hours and three-quarters work upon the rock.

[Sidenote: Force of the sea upon the Rock.]

A remarkable fact may here be mentioned as an evidence of the force of the sea upon the Bell Rock. The reader may remember, that the mushroom anchor, with its chain and buoy, which had drifted during the very hard gale of the 6th September 1807, were found upon the Rock after the gale: at that time the buoy and chain were taken up, but the anchor having got into a pretty large hole or cavity of the rock, no convenient opportunity occurred for lifting it last season. No doubt, however, was entertained that a mass of iron, weighing about a ton, without any timber or buoyant matter attached to it, would remain in this position undisturbed, till a convenient time should occur for recovering it. But, at the commencement of the works this season, to the surprise of every one, the anchor in question could not be seen. To-day, however, it was discovered at the opposite side of the Rock, by one of the smiths who was at work upon the highest platform of the beacon; and the weather being extremely fine, it was weighed or lifted by the landing-master’s crew. For this purpose, spars were laid across two boats, between which the anchor was made fast: as the tide rose the boats floated, and the anchor thus suspended, was conveyed to one of the vessels in the offing; when a chain and buoy being attached to it, it was again laid down in a proper _birth_, as the moorings of one of the praam-boats.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 26th.]

The weather kept still very favourable for the operations at the rock, though, from the prevailing fogs, it was not only inconvenient, but hazardous, to ply even in the short distance between the rock and the vessels in the offing. The boats landed this morning at half-past 8, and again returned to the Tender at 12. In the evening, they landed at half-past 8 and continued with torch-light till half-past 11 P. M., having had five hours work during the two tides.

[Sidenote: Monday, 27th.]

The weather was still thick and hazy, but the sea kept smooth, and the tides were very favourable, so that in the morning, the artificers were at work from half-past 8 till half-past 11 o’clock; and in the evening, from a quarter past 9 till midnight; or had altogether five hours and three-quarters work to-day.

The writer wishing, in such favourable weather, to try the practicability of bringing the Stone-lighters directly into the landing creeks of the Rock, with the stones and building materials, by which great facility might occasionally be given to the work, in landing the stones directly from the vessels, instead of doing it on all occasions by loading and discharging the praam-boats; an experiment was accordingly made this evening, and the sloop Smeaton was towed into the eastern creek, when it was ascertained that her cargo, in such weather, might have been very speedily landed. But when the tide left the rock, the vessel heeled to the one side, her sails hung loose, and she had so much the appearance of a wreck, that the sight cast an immediate gloom particularly upon the countenances of the seamen, to whom a vessel, in this state, could not be viewed without some degree of horror. Whether it was partly from this circumstance, or that the tide and weather would so seldom answer this nice operation, or that the landing-master’s crew had become so expert in transporting the praam-boats, the idea of laying the stone-vessels upon the rock, was, from this night’s experiment, completely abandoned.

[Sidenote: Tuesday 28th.]

Land in the morning at 9, and continue at work till 1 P. M., and again in the evening, when the work is continued by torch-light, from half-past 10 till half-past 12, having had five hours’ work to-day.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 29th.]

The wind was at south-east this morning, with gentle breezes and clear weather. The boats landed at 11 A. M., and the foundation pit having been speedily cleared of water, the work was continued till half-past 1. P. M., being three hours. The evening tides now falling late, and becoming neap, no landing was made this night.

[Sidenote: Monday, 30th.]

[Sidenote: Artificers leave the Rock. Progress of the works.]

The boats landed the artificers on the rock at half-past 11 this morning, but the tides being extremely languid, there was only about an hour’s work got upon the site of the building, and about 2½ hours’ at the Railways. Finding that little more could be got done during the present set of spring-tides, on returning to the vessel at 3 P. M., she was got under way, and sailed for Arbroath, which she reached at 7 P. M.; but, being too early in the tide for getting into the harbour, the author landed with the boat, and felt not a little satisfied with the progress and success of the work. The site of the building had been excavated as low in some parts as it was necessary or proper to carry it, and there was now a good prospect of having it completely prepared in the course of the next spring-tides. About 100 feet of the eastern branch of the Railway had also been laid, while the best of the season was still to come. The business of the work-yard was going on with no less vigour ashore. The greater quantity of the stones wanted from Aberdeen for the courses in hand, had been brought to Arbroath, and the supply was becoming both more regular and abundant from the quarry of Mylnefield. The second course, which contained very weighty stones, being 18 inches in thickness, was now nearly all laid down upon the platform in the middle of the work-yard, where each stone was carefully fitted and marked as it was to lie in the building, in the same manner as had been done with the first course.

[Sidenote: The Artificers’ pay and premiums this month.]

It so happened that the artificers employed afloat, or, at the Bell Rock, were upon this occasion ashore on the regular pay-day, which took place on the first of every month. The seamen’s wages were paid once a quarter, and their premiums at the end of the working season. Such of the artificers as had been off at the Rock this month, had each a considerable sum to receive for wages and premiums, say L. 6, the stated wages being L. 1 for six days; and having no disbursement to make for victuals, the situation of those afloat became enviable, and the workmen who had not been at the Rock, now began to make application for what they called their _turn afloat_. This change was not a little gratifying, considering the hesitation and backwardness shewn last season to this part of the service.

[Sidenote: 1808, July.]

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.]

[Sidenote: Artificers embark for the Rock.]

At 11 o’clock P. M., the Sir Joseph Banks Tender set sail from Arbroath for the Bell Rock, to commence the operations for the ensuing spring tides, having on board 38 masons, 6 joiners, 3 smiths, and the landing-master’s crew, consisting of 12 seamen, in all 59. The winds being variable, the vessel only got a short way off the shore in the course of the night, and did not reach her moorings till the next day at noon.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 6th.]

[Sidenote: Commence operations for the ensuing Spring-tides.]

Landed on the Rock, with the three boats belonging to the Tender, at 5 P. M., and began immediately to bale the water out of the foundation-pit, with a number of buckets, while the pumps were also kept in action with relays of artificers and seamen. The work commenced upon the higher parts of the foundation, as the water left them, but it was now pretty generally reduced to a level. The pumps were laid in a diagonal position as represented in Plate XI.; four men wrought at the cross handle and guided the pump-spear, to which a rope was attached, and in this manner, about 20 men could be conveniently employed at each pump, and it is quite astonishing in how short a time so great a body of water could be drawn off. The water in the foundation-pit at this time, measured about two feet in depth, on an area of 42 feet in diameter; and yet it was drawn off in the course of about half an hour. After this, the artificers commenced with their picks, and continued at work for two hours and a half, some of the sailors being at the same time busily employed in clearing the foundation of chips, and in conveying the irons to and from the smiths on the beacon where they were sharped. At 8 o’clock, the sea broke in upon us, and overflowed the foundation pit, when the boats returned to the Tender.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.]

[Sidenote: How employed.]

The landing-master’s bell rung this morning about 4 o’clock, and at 5 the boats landed the artificers, when the pumps and buckets were set to work to clear the foundation-pit of water. The pumps, as formerly noticed, were left upon the Rock, being fixed between four bars of iron, batted or wedged into it, upon which plates were fitted with forelocks, which kept them from shifting. It was common also to drive a few wedges of iron between the pumps and these fixtures, for greater security against their being lifted by the pressure of the water, which, in spring tides, was from 12 to 14 feet in depth. At half-past 5, the foundation being cleared, the work commenced on the site of the building. But from the moment of landing, the squad of joiners and mill-wrights was at work upon the higher parts of the Rock, in laying the railways, while the anvils of the smiths resounded on the Beacon, and such columns of smoke ascended from the forges, that they were often mistaken by strangers at a distance, for a ship on fire. After continuing three hours at work, the foundation of the building was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the ship at half-past 8 o’clock. The masons and pickmen had, at this period, a pretty long day on board of the Tender, but the smiths and joiners were kept constantly at work upon the Beacon; the stability and great conveniency of which had now been so fully shewn, that no doubt remained as to the propriety of fitting it up as a barrack. The workmen were accordingly employed, during the period of high-water, in making preparations for this purpose.

[Sidenote: Foundation stone prepared.]

The foundation-pit now assumed the appearance of a great platform, and the late tides had been so favourable, that it became apparent that the first course, consisting of a few irregular and detached stones for making up certain inequalities in the interior parts of the site of the building, might be laid in the course of the present spring-tides. Having been enabled to-day to get the dimensions of the foundation or first stone accurately taken, a mould was made of its figure, when the writer left the Rock, after the tide’s work of this morning, in a fast rowing boat, for Arbroath; and upon landing, two men were immediately set to work upon one of the blocks from Mylnefield quarry, which was prepared in the course of the following day, as the stone-cutters relieved each other, and worked both night and day, so that it was sent off in one of the Stone-lighters without delay.

On returning to the Rock, the writer found that the artificers had been able to land regularly, both at the morning and evening tides, and that they had added eight hours to the working period. He was, however, extremely sorry to find that he had missed the visit of his excellent friend Mr Patrick Neill, who, in the zeal of his pursuits in botany and natural history, had expressed a strong desire to examine the fuci and animals upon the Bell Rock, and had taken the opportunity of a passage with the Smeaton from Leith. But his engagements did not admit of his remaining till the writer’s return; and he had left the rock in a boat going to the Redhead, about seven miles east from Arbroath, where he expected to overtake the writer, but instead of which, they unluckily passed each other under night.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 9th.]

The weather still continued to be very agreeable, the wind being moderate and chiefly from the S.W. At 6 A. M. the signal bell was rung for embarking for the Rock. At 7 the artificers landed, and began to clear the foundation-pit of water, and the work continued from a quarter past 7 till half-past 11, having had three hours’ and a quarter’s work, when the Rock was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the Tender.

[Sidenote: Foundation stone landed at high-water.]

The site of the foundation-stone was very difficult to work, from its depth in the Rock, but being now nearly prepared, it formed a very agreeable kind of pastime, at high-water, for all hands to land it upon the Rock. The landing-master’s crew and artificers accordingly entered with great spirit into this operation. The stone was placed upon the deck of the Hedderwick Praam-boat, which had just been brought from Leith, and was decorated with colours for the occasion. Flags were also displayed from the shipping in the offing, and upon the Beacon. Here the writer took his station with the greater part of the artificers, who supported themselves in every possible position while the boats towed the praam from her moorings, and brought her immediately over the site of the building where her grappling anchors were let go. The stone was then lifted off the deck by a tackle hooked into a Lewis-bat, inserted into it; when it was gently lowered into the water, and grounded on the site of the building, amidst the cheering acclamations of about sixty persons. The landing of this stone at high-water became necessary, from there being still a want of a sufficient length of railway for conveying it along the Rock at low-water to the site of the building. But this method was rarely resorted to, as it was apt to skirt or break the edges of the stones; and as a continuation of good weather was not to be calculated upon, it was observed as a rule never to land more stones in any one tide than could be built, because the force of the sea was more than sufficient to remove the heaviest stones, as we have seen in the case of the first six blocks of granite which were landed by way of experiment, and also of the cast-iron mushroom anchor, which was drifted about the Rock, although it weighed upwards of a ton.

The boats landed at half-past 7 this evening, and the artificers immediately began to bale and pump the water from the foundation-pit, and the work was afterwards continued by torch-light till a quarter-past 11, having had three hours’ and a quarter’s work this tide.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 10th.]

[Sidenote: Foundation-stone laid with masonic ceremony.]

The wind to-day was variable, with gentle breezes varying from S.E. to N.E.; and every thing being in a state of preparation for laying the foundation-stone, which had yesterday been landed with so much eclat, the sailors again displayed their flags at all points, and a cheerful happiness was discernible in every countenance. At half-past 8 the boats landed the artificers, and the weather being remarkably fine, as many of the crews of the Floating-light, the Tender and the Smeaton, as could be spared from their respective ships, landed this morning, to witness the long-wished-for ceremony of laying the first stone of the Light-house. We had, besides, an acquisition to our numbers, in a party consisting of about sixteen persons from Dundee, who came to the Rock, just as preparations were making for laying the stone.

Whether we consider this building as an erection of great difficulty, or, in a nautical point of view, as adding much to the comfort and protection of the mariner, and safety of property, upon a range of coast extending almost to the whole eastern shores of Great Britain, its importance is evident. If it be proper, therefore, on any occasion, to attach importance to the act of laying the first stone of a public building, that of the Bell Rock Light-house cannot be said to yield to any in point of celebrity, either for the peculiarity of its situation, or the importance of its object. Under these considerations it is obvious, that but for the perilous and uncertain nature of any arrangement which could have been made for this ceremony, instead of its having been performed only in the presence of those immediately connected with the work, and of a few accidental spectators from the neighbouring shore, counting in all about eighty persons, many thousands would have attended upon an occasion which must have called forth the first dignitaries of the country, in conferring the highest honours of masonry. The writer may, however, confidently affirm, that, situate as the work was, nothing could add to the satisfaction felt by all present, in having now got matters in so advanced a state, as to be able to commence the building operations.

At 11 o’clock, the foundation stone was laid to hand. It was of a square form, containing about 20 cubic feet, and had the figures or date of 1808 simply cut upon it with a chisel, a derrick or spar of timber having been erected at the edge of the hole and guyed with ropes. The stone was then hooked to the tackle and lowered into its place, when the writer, attended by his assistants Mr Peter Logan, Mr Francis Watt, and Mr James Wilson, applied the square, the level, and the mallet, and pronounced the following benediction: “May the Great Architect of the Universe complete and bless this building,” on which three hearty cheers were given, and success to the future operations was drunk with the greatest enthusiasm.

[Sidenote: Prayers read after the tide’s work.]

By 12 o’clock noon, the tide had overflowed the site of the building, and the boats left the Rock after a tide’s work of three hours and a half. On returning to the ship, prayers were read, when every heart perhaps felt more than ordinary thankfulness. The artificers were again landed in the evening at half-past 8, and continued at work, with torch-light, till a quarter past 12, having been three hours and three quarters’ at work, or seven hours in all to-day.

[Sidenote: Monday, 11th.]

The boats landed at 9 o’clock this morning, and after three hours’ and a quarter’s work, they left the Rock at a quarter past 1 P. M. The artificers landed again in the evening, and work with torch-light from 10 to a quarter past 12, having had two hours’ and a quarter’s work.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 12th.]

After clearing the foundation-pit of water, by means of the two pumps and a number of buckets, the work commenced at a quarter past 10, and left off at half-past 12 noon, having had two hours’ and a quarter’s work. In the evening, the artificers again landed at 9, but it was not till a quarter past 11 that the water was cleared out, and it began to overflow the site of the building again at midnight, so that only three quarters of an hour’s work was got upon the Rock with the evening tide.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 13th.]

Land at a quarter before 10 A. M., and begin to work at half-past 10, and left off at a quarter from 1 P. M., having had two hours’ and a half. In the evening at 12 o’clock, the foundation-pit was cleared of water; but at a quarter past 12, the sea broke into it again, so that no work was done, owing to the state of the tide.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 14th.]

[Sidenote: Tender leaves the Rock.]

Land to-day at half-past 12 noon, and had one hour’s work. But the tides being now in the state of neap, the Tender sailed with the artificers and landing-master’s crew to Arbroath, to wait the return of spring-tides. The work now put on a very promising appearance. The first stone had been laid, and the levelling of the site of the building was in such a state, as to afford every prospect of being able to commence the building of the first entire course, after a few good tides. The _reach_ of the Railways from the site of the building, to the eastern landing-place, was also in a state of great forwardness, and the other parts of the apparatus being now in readiness, there was every prospect of making rapid progress after the foundation course was laid, and building operations were fairly begun.

[Sidenote: Price of granite advanced.]

In the work-yard, however, things had not so prosperous an appearance, as a number of blocks of granite were still wanting to complete the first four courses of the building; and such was the urgency of the demand, lest the work should be stopped in its progress, that the writer authorised Mr Gildowie of Aberdeen to advance the price of stone, according to circumstances, as an additional stimulus to the exertions of the quarriers. From this state of matters, it was now pretty obvious, that not more than two or three courses of the light-house could be built this season.

[Sidenote: Friday, 22d.]

[Sidenote: Artificers sail for the Rock.]

To-day, at 1 o’clock P. M., the Tender left Arbroath for the Bell Rock, having on board 16 masons, 5 mill-wrights and joiners, 2 black-smiths, and 13 seamen, in all 35 persons, including the officers of the ship. The wind was at E. N. E., with light breezes and fine weather; but as it fell calm, the boats left the Tender at 5 P. M. with the artificers, while yet about 5 or 6 miles from the rock: but owing to the strength of the ebb-tide, it was found impossible to reach it in time for the tide, and they returned to the vessel at 9 P. M. without having effected a landing.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.]

At half-past 5 A. M., the Tender was made fast to the south-west buoy, when the artificers landed. The two pumps were immediately set to work, and at half-past 7 the work commenced, and continued till a quarter past 9, when the site of the building was again overflowed, and the boats left the Rock after an hour and three-quarters’ work. In the evening the work commenced at 7, and left off at half-past 9, after two hours’ and a half’s work.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 24th.]

[Sidenote: A raft of timber goes adrift.]

The wind was at S.S.E., with strong gales, accompanied with a heavy breach of sea, so that the boats could not land, and there was consequently no work done to-day. The ship had also such a rolling motion, that the people could not be collected on deck, as usual, for reading prayers. The wind was at east, accompanied with a pretty heavy swell of sea to-day, so that it was not without considerable difficulty that the boats landed, when two hours’ and a quarter’s work were got, having been on the Rock from three quarters past 7 till 10 A. M. But in this state of the weather a landing was not attempted in the evening. In the course of this night, a raft of six Norway logs, intended for laying the railways over certain gullies or inequalities of the rock, drifted from one of the floating buoys to which it had been made fast. It was afterwards picked up by some fishermen in the Firth of Forth, near Anstruther, who were paid L. 2 for their trouble, in name of salvage and expences.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.]

The weather was more settled to-day, and the sea had become much smoother. At a quarter past 8 A. M. the work commenced, and left off again at half-past 11, after an excellent tide’s work of three hours and a quarter. The masons were chiefly employed at the foundation of the building,--the millwrights and joiners at the railways,--the blacksmiths were kept busy at both operations,--while the landing-master’s crew took part in the whole.

The boats landed again in the evening at 8 P. M., and the foundation having been cleared, the artificers began to the low-water works at a quarter past 9, and continued till 11. After an hour and three-quarters’ work they left the rock, but the joiners and blacksmiths had been employed on the beacon since morning.

[Sidenote: State of things, at night, upon extinguishing the torches.]

The wind being at S.E. this evening, we had a pretty heavy swell of sea upon the rock, and some difficulty attended our getting off in safety, as the boats got a-ground in the creek, and were in danger of being upset. Upon extinguishing the torch-lights, about twelve in number, the darkness of the night seemed quite horrible; the water being also much charged with the phosphorescent appearance which is familiar to every one on ship-board, the waves, as they dashed upon the rock, were in some degree like so much liquid flame. The scene, upon the whole, was truly awful.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.]

[Sidenote: The first, or foundation course is finished to-day.]

The work on the rock began this morning at 9 o’clock, and left off at a quarter past 12 noon, when the tide overflowed the site of the building. The masons then went on board of the Tender, but the smiths and joiners, as usual, continued their operations on the beacon. The weather being moderate, the boats landed again in the evening, at a quarter past 10, and left off at midnight, having had altogether four hours’ and three quarters’ of low-water work to-day, when the last of the eighteen detached pieces of stone, forming the Foundation-course, were laid. The several holes or cavities in it, varying in depth from six to eighteen inches, had now been built up with stones, exactly cut and fitted to their respective places, as represented in Plate XV.; and which brought the whole surface to a uniform level.

[Sidenote: The force of habit exemplified in landing at night on the Bell Rock.]

In leaving the Rock this evening, every thing, after the torches were extinguished, had the same dismal appearance as last night, but so perfectly acquainted were the landing-master and his crew with the position of things at the Rock, that comparatively little inconveniency was experienced on these occasions, when the weather was moderate: such is the effect of habit, even in the most unpleasant situations. If, for example, it had been proposed to a person accustomed to a city life, at once to take up his quarters off a sunken reef, and land upon it in boats at all hours of the night, the proposition must have appeared quite impracticable and extravagant; but this practice coming progressively upon the artificers, it was ultimately undertaken with the greatest alacrity. Notwithstanding this, however, it must be acknowledged, that it was not till after much labour and peril, and many an anxious hour, that the writer is enabled to state, that the site of the Bell Rock Light-house is fully prepared for the First entire course of the building.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 28th.]

[Sidenote: First cargo of an entire course landed.]

The sloop Smeaton had accordingly loaded the first cargo of cut stone at Arbroath for the Light-house, consisting of twenty blocks of the First entire course, and had last night come to her moorings; and this morning the praam-boats were employed in landing her cargo upon the Rock. From the want of a complete line of Railway from any of the landing-places to the site of the building, this operation could only be effected at high-water, when the stones were let down, one after another, upon the unincumbered area of the foundation of the Light-house, by means of a slip-rope passed through the Lewis-bat of each stone. This, as before noticed, was by no means a very desirable mode of landing the materials, and was indeed, one that could rarely be resorted to, except in the finest weather. The artificers having landed at 9 A. M., the foundation was cleared of water by 10, when the masons made preparations for commencing the building operations. Having had two hours’ and three quarters’ work, they left the Rock, after laying the blocks of stone which had been landed, in a compact and regular manner upon the site of the building.

[Sidenote: Friday, 29th.]

The wind was at east to-day, with a gentle breeze. At 10 A. M. the workmen landed, but the tides becoming neap, it was two hours and a half before the foundation could be cleared of water, and at a quarter from 2 P. M. it was again overflowed, having only had an hour and a quarter’s work with the morning tide, when the twelve remaining blocks of the Smeaton’s cargo were laid to hand, and ready for being built with mortar. In the present state of the tides, it was not judged necessary to land this evening.

[Sidenote: The Smeaton makes a second trip for a cargo in 20 hours.]

The Smeaton having been unloaded yesterday forenoon, she was again dispatched to Arbroath for another cargo of the First course, which she got on board that same night by 12 o’clock, and had returned to her moorings at the Bell Rock this morning; Captain Pool, with his usual activity, having only been absent from the Rock about twenty hours. In the mean time, the writer visited the operations of the work-yard, to ascertain more fully what prospect there was of having a supply of prepared stones for continuing the works of this season, to the extent of three or four courses of the Light-house. Some arrangement also was necessary for the removal of Cranes and other articles of machinery for the use of the building operations.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 30th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails for Arbroath.]

The Tender left her moorings at the Rock this morning for Arbroath, with such of the artificers as could be spared. Those left shifted on board of the Smeaton, and were to be employed at the Beacon, and in laying the Railways, now much wanted, for transporting the stones along the Rock. They also attended to the arrangement of the materials landed upon the site of the building, where, from the lowness of its situation, they lay in safety. In the work-yard considerable progress had now been made with the Second entire course of the building, and after much trouble, the necessary blocks of granite had at length come to hand, for completing it, but still many stones were wanting for the higher ones.

[Sidenote: 1808, August.]

[Sidenote: August, Wednesday, 3d.]

[Sidenote: Returns to the Rock.]

The Tender sailed this afternoon from Arbroath, having on board two of the cranes already alluded to, as in preparation for the work, upon a new construction, as will be seen in Plate XIV. These were intended to be erected on the site of the building, for laying the stones in a more perfect and expeditious manner than had hitherto been followed in operations of this kind. She carried also forty-seven persons, including artificers and seamen; but as the winds were light, little progress was made during the afternoon, for, as yet, the utility of the Steam-boat, in cases of this kind, had not been developed.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.]

[Sidenote: Four stones laid.]

At 4 o’clock this morning the Tender reached her moorings, and was made fast to the south-west buoy, as laid down upon Plate V. At 5 o’clock, 32 artificers and 11 seamen landed upon the Rock, from three boats. The landing-master’s crew transported one of the cranes from on board of the Tender, on one of the praams, and landed it at high-water upon the Rock. Having again landed in the evening, the foundation-pit was cleared of water by 6 o’clock, when the Crane was set up and properly guyed with ropes. The center-stone and three others were then laid with mortar, and trenailed to the Rock. After two hours’ work, the site of the building was again overflowed, and at 8 o’clock the artificers returned on board of the Tender.

[Sidenote: Advantages of the new cranes over sheer-poles.]

As the stones were all dove-tailed into one another, they required to be laid perpendicularly into their respective places, which was also essential to preserving a proper bed of mortar under them. This could only be effected in a speedy and dextrous manner by means of a crane; but it will further be seen, from the angular figure of the stones, that this could not be effected by one of these machines of the ordinary construction, as has formerly been noticed. It had been recommended to the writer to use the common sheer-poles, with which the Edystone Light-house was built, which, notwithstanding all the improvements in machinery, were still chiefly in use for laying heavy stones; but sheer-poles, besides being difficult to preserve on a sunken rock, could neither have laid the materials so well, nor with a tenth part of the expedition, as the crane with the moveable beam delineated in Plate XIV.

[Sidenote: Mr Smeaton’s plan of Trenails and Wedges followed.]

Stones laid at the depth of about 14 feet under high-water mark, required more than merely laying them on their respective beds, and trusting to their own gravity. For this purpose nothing seemed to be so well adapted as the oaken trenails which Mr Smeaton used in the erection of the Edystone Light-house. Two jumper-holes, of an inch and a half in diameter, had accordingly been drilled through each stone, which were continued or perforated to the depth of six inches into the rock or course immediately below, which became the most tedious part of the building operation. When the oaken trenail was inserted into the hole, it had a saw-draught across the lower end, into which a small wedge was inserted: and when driven home, it became quite firm. The trenail was then cut flush with the upper bed of the stone, and split with a chisel, when another wooden wedge was inserted and driven into the upper end of the trenail, as represented in diagram 10. of Plate X. Nor was this all, for, in following up Mr Smeaton’s principle, two pairs of oaken wedges, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 11. were also driven gently into the perpendicular joints, prior to grouting them with mortar. The whole stones of a course had thus to be laid with great nicety, corresponding to a number of checks and marks, previously arranged in the work-yard, that the wedges might fit without trouble at the Rock, and preserve the respective positions of the superincumbent courses, and make band throughout the whole fabric.

[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.]

[Sidenote: 16 Stones laid.]

The boats landed the artificers this morning at half-past 5 o’clock, and the foundation-pit being cleared of water, seven stones were laid and secured with trenails by 8 o’clock. The artificers are again landed at 6 P. M. and in the course of two hours nine additional stones were laid.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th, till Wednesday, 10th.]

[Sidenote: 92 Stones laid.]