Chapter III (1)

PHAROS FLOATING LIGHT-SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE
BELL-ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND FURTHER PROGRESS OF THE
LIGHT-HOUSE WORKS IN 1807.

[Sidenote: Floating-Light.]

The Act of Parliament, by which the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses were empowered to undertake the works at the Bell Rock, having only received the Royal Assent late in the month of July 1806, there was not sufficient time for making the necessary preparations for their commencement that season. But the writer, on his return from London, received instructions from the Board to have such preliminary steps in view, as would enable him to begin the operations early in the summer of 1807. This being arranged, he sailed in the month of August, on his annual voyage, for the inspection of the Northern Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Act provides for a Floating-Light and Beacon.]

The bill for the Bell Rock Light-house was drawn up, under a strong impression of the uncertainty which must attend the whole of the works at the rock, and doubts were accordingly entertained as to the estimated expence being adequate to the accomplishment of the undertaking. A clause had, therefore, been introduced, authorising the collection of the light-house duties of one penny halfpenny _per_ register ton from British vessels, and threepence _per_ ton from foreigners, “immediately upon mooring or anchoring a ship or vessel, and exhibiting a floating or other light, at or near the Bell Rock,” and “half the amount of the said duties respectively,” on the erection of “a proper beacon or distinguishing mark or object on the said Bell Rock.” The measures first in order were, consequently, to fit out and moor a floating-light and to erect a beacon on the Bell Rock, that shipping might derive immediate advantage from them, while the light-house was in progress; and also that the funds of the Board might, as early as possible, have the benefit of the additional duties. We therefore proceed to give an account of the outfit and mooring of this vessel, and of the erection of the beacon-house, without attending strictly to the chronological order of the works.

The writer had frequent communications with the late Captain Huddart, of the Trinity-House of London, and other nautical men, both as to the form of a vessel, and the moorings proper for a situation like the Bell Rock: here the depth of water could not be less than from seventeen to nineteen fathoms at the lowest tide, whereas, on the English coast, the depth where floating lights are, in general, moored, does not exceed seven or eight fathoms, and their moorings, consequently, much more easily managed. The writer had also visited the floating light of the Nore, at the entrance of the river Thames; and he was induced, upon the whole, to conclude, that a vessel built after the manner and construction of the Dutch fishing-doggers, would be the most suitable for riding at anchor in the open sea, and that her moorings should consist partly of an iron chain, and partly of a hempen cable.

_Pharos Floating Light-ship._

[Sidenote: Fishing Dogger purchased, and named The Pharos.]

In the year 1806, a great number of vessels were taken by our cruizers, upon the coasts of Holland, Denmark, and Norway, many of which were carried into Leith to be sold. One of these, a Prussian, which happened to be captured while fishing on the Dogger Bank, was purchased for the Bell Rock service. This vessel was of a flat construction, rounded off both at the stem and stern, agreeably to the ordinary make of these doggers. She was called the Tonge Gerrit, but was afterwards named the Pharos, in allusion to the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria. She measured 67 feet in length, and 16 feet in breadth, upon deck, 8 feet depth of hold, and was 82 tons register. It was, however, only the form of her hull that fitted her for our purpose; her rigging and whole equipment having to undergo a complete alteration, for the light-house service.

[Sidenote: Fitted out under the direction of the Trinity-House, Leith.]

The establishing of a floating-light being quite new upon the coast of Scotland, and that every thing connected with this vessel might be done upon the best principles, the writer procured the assistance of Mr Joseph Webb, an experienced pilot of Yarmouth, who had attended the fitting up of one of the floating lights stationed off that coast, and who had been recommended by the Trinity Board of London as a person of skill, for instructing the master of the vessel in all the details of the service. Several of the Captains of the Trinity-House of Leith also obligingly formed themselves into a committee, and from time to time assisted in giving directions as to the necessary repairs and outfit of the vessel.

Agreeably to this arrangement, the Prussian dogger was put into one of the graving docks of Leith, in the month of March 1807, and underwent a complete examination, when it was found that she required a few new timbers in her bottom; and that to strengthen her upper works, several new beams and additional knees were necessary. Her bottom had to be new trenailed and caulked, and then sheathed with fir plank. Her ceiling, or interior lining, was also caulked, and made water-tight, in case of accident to the outer plank, in the event of her breaking adrift, and getting upon the Bell Rock. Her deck-plank and upper works were also entirely renewed; and from stem to stern, under deck, her accommodations were laid out anew. She was furnished with three masts, of a length calculated to enable her to ride with as little incumbrance as possible in a storm; the main-mast being only thirty-five feet above the deck, while the fore and mizen masts were each twenty-five feet. The rigging was also made of light cordage, and she was provided with storm-sails, to be used in the event of her breaking adrift in bad weather. By the time, therefore, that this vessel came from the hands of the carpenters, very little of the old work remained, as nothing had been omitted, which could, in any manner, add to her strength and durability. She was fitted up with births for about thirty artificers, besides her ordinary crew and officers, amounting to thirteen in number, independently of her hold for oil and stores of various descriptions. In the distribution of these, the fore-peak of the ship was allotted for the sailors; the waist for the artificers; and galley appropriated to the cooking of the victuals. Next to this, a large cabin was set off for the master, mate, and principal light-keeper, and for the foremen of the works; while the after or stern part of the ship formed a cabin for the use of the engineer.

[Sidenote: Peculiar construction of Lanterns.]

The Pharos was furnished with a large copper lantern for each mast, containing ten lamps, with small silver-plated reflectors, ranged upon a chandelier, moveable at pleasure, in a horizontal direction, for the conveniency of turning the lamps to trim them and clean the reflectors. To make the vessel ride as easily as possible, in a situation so exposed, the lanterns were made of a peculiar construction, so as to screw together upon the masts, in two pieces, longitudinally, as represented in Plate X., Figs. 1, 2, and 3. By these means, the light could be seen in every direction, without the necessity of suspending them in the usual manner from yards, or other weighty apparatus, which tend not only to obscure the light, but also to make the ship ride heavily in bad weather.

[Sidenote: Construction of Moorings.]

The moorings of the floating light consisted of a large mushroom anchor, of cast-iron, weighing about a ton and a half, and made with a shank and head, resembling in form, as nearly as may be, the vegetable from which it takes its name. This anchor was made with a malleable iron shank, but latterly these mushroom anchors were made wholly of cast-iron, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 4. A chain of fifty fathoms in length, was attached to the anchor, made of inch and half bars of iron, to which a hempen cable, of 14 inches in circumference, and 120 fathoms in length, was connected, to be veered out according to the state of the weather.

[Sidenote: Pharos is towed to the Roads.]

The Pharos being ready for sea, was, on the 9th of July, towed out of the harbour of Leith to the Roads, by the Light-house Yacht, a cutter-rigged vessel attached to the general service of the Northern Light-houses. The Yacht had the Pharos’ moorings on board, and was appointed to conduct her to the Bell Rock, and lay them down. A curious enough circumstance took place, when the crew of the floating-light was mustered, before leaving the harbour: two of the seamen having taken alarm, at the destination of the ship, and the nature of the service in which they were about to embark, suddenly turned about, and, to the great surprise of their comrades, ran with the utmost precipitation from the ship; to which they never again returned. Their places, however, were supplied with others, without much inconvenience.

[Sidenote: Committee of the Trinity-House go to the Bell Rock.]

As the gentlemen of the Trinity-house of Leith, had all along taken a particular interest in the fitting out of the floating-light, the Commissioners requested their assistance in fixing upon the precise spot in which she should be moored, for the direction of ships passing the Bell Rock. This they readily complied with, suggesting, at the same time, that some of the shipmasters of Arbroath, who were locally acquainted with the coast, should also be invited to give their opinion and advice upon this point. A few of the most experienced ship-masters and merchants of Arbroath were accordingly invited to come off, when the floating light should make her appearance in their neighbourhood. Matters being thus arranged, the writer went on board of the Light-house Yacht, on the 10th, accompanied by Mr Thomas Grindlay, master of the Trinity-house of Leith, with Mr John Hay, and Mr Thomas Ritchie, Assistant-Masters.

[Sidenote: Pharos sails for the Bell Rock.]

At 8 A. M. the Pharos got under way in Leith Roads, and sailed for her station at the Bell Rock, under the command of Mr George Sinclair, with a crew of twelve in number. But as she sailed very heavily, the Yacht, with her party, did not follow till noon, and about 2 P. M. came up with her, and took her in tow, when it came to blow fresh breezes from SW. At 6, both vessels anchored for the night on the eastern side of the Isle of May, as, by continuing our course, we should have reached the Bell Rock under night, which was then an object of terror to every seaman, and must have been attended with danger, from its then undistinguished state.

[Sidenote: Committee from Arbroath join the party.]

While the Yacht and Pharos lay at anchor at the Isle of May, Mr David Balfour, Mr Andrew Duncan, Mr David Cargill, Mr John Fleming, and Mr William Kidd, as a Committee from Arbroath, having hired a vessel, left that place in the morning, and hailed the Yacht, soon after she came to an anchor, when some of their party joined us on board. As the accommodations of the floating light were very ample, having only the ship’s company on board, it was proposed that the whole party should meet in her, and pass the night; but she rolled from side to side, in so extraordinary a manner, that even the most sea-hardy of our number were content to remain in a state of separation, rather than accept of the best birth in the floating light. It was humorously observed of this vessel, “that she was in some danger of making a round turn, and appearing with her keel uppermost.” Another said, “she would roll out her masts;” and a third that she would “even turn a halfpenny, if laid upon deck.” These, and such like remarks, afforded much pleasantry on board of the Light-house Yacht, and were suggested by the manner in which the Pharos rolled and _yawed_ about, when compared with the more easy motion of the other vessels. Being then in light ballast trim to fit her for riding in bad weather, and very flat in the bottom, the smallest wave set her in motion, when at anchor; and when under way, she was little better, for she answered the helm with so much difficulty, that a large decked Praam-boat, which she had in tow, was upset in the passage from Leith. The writer is the more particular on this subject, as the rolling motion of the floating-light became proverbial in the Light-house service, and continued a source of much trouble and uneasiness to all concerned, especially while she was used as a tender or store-ship for the works.

[Sidenote: Pharos anchors in a temporary birth.]

Early in the morning of the 11th, the vessels left their anchorage at the Isle of May, and sailed for the Bell Rock; but on reaching it, in the course of the forenoon, the wind came to the eastward, accompanied with thick hazy weather, and drizzling showers of rain, which so completely hid the distant landmarks from view, that there was a necessity for ordering the Pharos to come to an anchor with her best bower, on the smoothest spot of ground that could be found, until a change of weather should admit of her being moored in a proper manner. The weather afterwards became so foggy that every object was lost sight of. The vessel which had brought our friends from Arbroath, put into that harbour in the course of the evening, but the Light-house Yacht kept at sea till the morning of the 12th, when it came to blow so fresh, that she also went into that harbour, to wait a change of weather. On the 14th, it improved, and the Yacht again sailed for the Bell Rock. On returning to the floating light, we were happy to find that all was well on board, though Mr Sinclair and Mr Webb, the pilot, complained that their anchorage was not very good, as the bottom was hard, and the soundings or particles brought up with the lead exhibited sharp coral and coarse gravel. After plying about for some time with the Yacht, and sounding in every direction, a place was at length fixed upon, about a mile and a half in a north-westerly direction from the Bell Rock. The Yacht, as before noticed, having on board the floating-light’s moorings, anchored on the spot most approved of for laying them down.

[Sidenote: In laying down her Moorings, the whole chain goes overboard.]

Some arrangements having been made among the nautical gentlemen, as to the precise mode of going about this operation, it was resolved to suspend the mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the chain upon deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of it fast to the lower part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a very strong and perfectly new stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7 inches in circumference. It was not doubted but that this strong rope would have held the chain against any strain that might have been brought upon it, in the process of letting down the moorings. But the mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the ship’s tackle, than the part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck went overboard with such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus to the remainder of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately upon the stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of the chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with the mushroom-anchor.

[Sidenote: Moorings recovered with great difficulty.]

This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and embarrassed the operations of mooring the floating-light, as the chain had now to be fished or hooked at the bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen fathoms. After many trials, we at length succeeded in hooking it with a grappling-iron, but as it happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from the anchor, it required all the purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht and Pharos to raise it: for the weight, including the anchor, and so large a portion of the chain, could not be less than about three tons. This operation was begun at mid-day, and, although the united force of the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it was not till two o’clock on the following morning,--being a period of fourteen hours,--that the moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought alongside of the Yacht, to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to the _clinch_, or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather was fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety and exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he to judge by his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would join in saying, that it was one of the most painfully laborious days they had spent in the course of their existence. For the space of about twenty hours, the crews of both ships had never been off deck, and during twelve of these the hand-spike, or the tackle, had not been five minutes together out of their hands, as the refreshments which they got were served up at the windlass. The same observations are literally applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck, who divided their attention severally to the different tackles and purchases employed in raising the moorings.

The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light having been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she would ride at anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the public. The writer accordingly returned on board in the course of three weeks, and examined the moorings, which were found in good order. The anchorage ground was also considered of a very proper description, in so far as observations, made during a tract of favourable weather, had afforded the means of judging. The vessel lay in an excellent position for the direction of shipping; and being at this time only about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a hulk or store-ship for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the relative position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.

[Sidenote: Description of the Floating-Light.]

“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of Geo. III. chap. 132. authorising the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses to erect a Light-house on the Bell Rock, to place a floating light there, and to collect duties thereupon,--notice is hereby given, that a vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now moored off the Cape or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.

“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor, and chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by compass, E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E. distant thirteen miles; Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles; and the island of May S. W. ¾ S. distant seventeen miles.

“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of the 15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the going away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from the double lights at the entrance of the Firth of Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of Northumberland, and also from the single light on the Island of May, three distinct lights will be shown from the Bell Rock Floating-light, by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast, which will be visible from every point of the compass, at the distance of from two to three leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being elevated 23 feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck; the lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance of a triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one above the other.

“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger, and appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue flag, with a light-house in the field, will be displayed from the main-mast; and, in thick and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled, night and day, on board, with an interval of about one minute.

“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner, and every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all floating-lights are liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather, mariners are requested not to neglect their landmarks, and to run with caution for the floating-light.

“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship, while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of which due notice will be given.”

_Commencement of the Operations on the Bell Rock._

[Sidenote: 1807, August.]

As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring stones of large dimensions, is unavoidably tedious, especially in the collecting of materials, we shall at present only notice, that the Light-house Board having resolved on the use partly of granite and partly of sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock, measures were duly taken for procuring a supply of the former from the quarry of Rubeslaw near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near Dundee. But, instead of following out this part of our subject in its order, we shall first proceed to a detail of the operations _afloat_, as they may be termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season of 1807,--particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the beacon-house, or temporary residence for the artificers on the rock, and of the progress made in the preparation of the foundation or site of the main building.

[Sidenote: Sloop Smeaton.]

We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at Leith, in the course of the spring, expressly for the Bell Rock service, to be employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a stone-lighter for the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month of June; she measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in all respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for the perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called The Smeaton,--a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting, as a mark of respect for the memory of the celebrated engineer of the Eddystone Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of text-book for the Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea in the beginning of August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of that month. Arbroath being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell Rock, naturally pointed out itself as the proper place for establishing the works, and preparing the materials, before shipping them for the rock. The writer had, accordingly, been here for some time, making the necessary preparations; and when the Smeaton arrived, he found himself in a condition for commencing the operations, in a systematic manner, upon the rock itself.

[Sidenote: The Positions of the Light-House and Beacon fixed on.]

The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and had hitherto been supplied with necessaries by the Yacht belonging to the general service of the Light-house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips had also been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton, the Yacht sailed on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern Light-houses. In these preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his own mind, upon the parts of the rock most favourable for the position of the light-house, and on the south-west of it, he chose the site of the beacon-house, that it might be sheltered, in some measure, from the breach of the north-east sea; and by placing them contiguous, or about twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a ready communication with each other in the more advanced stages of the work.

[Sidenote: 1807, 7th August.]

[Sidenote: First trip of the Artificers to the Bell Rock.]

The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the floating-light, and three sets of chain-moorings with mushroom-anchors, and large floating buoys, the writer sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock on the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, and five artificers, selected, on this occasion, from their having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the writer being aware of the distressing trial which the floating-light would necessarily inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he remained till the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was effected daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-weed from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at the buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that situation, could seldom have been purchased or lifted again, as it would constantly have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which the mushroom anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable, as will be understood by examining the diagram representing it in Plate X. Fig. 4. The artificers having fortunately experienced moderate weather, returned to the work-yard at Arbroath, with a good report of their treatment afloat; when their comrades ashore began to feel some anxiety to see a place of which they had heard so much, and to change the constant operation with the iron and mallet in the process of hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock, which they figured to themselves as a state of comparative ease and comfort.

[Sidenote: Rate of Artificers’ wages fixed on.]

In answer to some advances which had been made on this subject by the artificers, the foreman was instructed to select fourteen of the stone-cutters, who had been accustomed to the use of the pick-axe, and to boring or drilling holes with a jumper, after the manner of quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a few days. When these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely, some of them were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate, demanding two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions, and L. 1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed, that the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath. The artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions, with certain premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the work, particularly for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be accounted and paid for as a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble, two or three of the men acceded to the foreman’s proposals, others refused to engage themselves, excepting at the highest rate; while a third party objected only to working on Sunday. In any agreement to be entered into, it was held as an express condition, “That every man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should remain for the space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those chiefly wanted at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were accustomed to the use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite. Being engaged only from week to week in the work-yard, they were desirous of knowing the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when they were informed that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from sea sickness, and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to return ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the work, by too frequent a change of hands. They were further told, that, by continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that time, become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till the end of the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could not last for many weeks. This condition was considered of importance in the commencement of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as the writer assured them that he should himself remain with them during that period. As one condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen masons, they felt no hesitation in proposing another on their own part, and they accordingly handed the following offer of service, addressed to the foreman, dated 12th August 1807, which, from the tenor of the document, we shall here insert.

[Sidenote: Letter from the Aberdeen Masons.]

“In consequence of our communing with one another concerning the Bell Rock, we hereby agree to stay with you from the above date, till August 1808, being twelve months certain, and to take our turn at whatever work may start up concerning the Bell Rock business,--only, it is to be understood, that the rest of the masons must take turn and turn about with us: the terms of our agreement to be 20s. per week, summer and winter, wet and dry, with free quarters ashore, and likewise our victuals when we are at the rock.--As for the Sunday’s work and premiums, we leave that to the honour of our employers. (Signed) William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks, Alexander Sherif, John Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald, Robert Ferres, John Mason, William Chalmers.”

Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the 15th, the vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding that this would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred until Monday. Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted for the operations at the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking with a degree of consideration, which fully marked their opinion as to the hazardous nature of the undertaking on which they were about to enter. They went in a body to church on Sunday, and whether it was in the ordinary course, or designed for the occasion, the writer is not certain, but the service was, in many respects, suitable to their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend Mr GLEG, the minister of the parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the success and safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was remarkably serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract of weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as an omen of good fortune.

[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.]

[Sidenote: Twenty-four Artificers embark for the Rock.]

The tide happening to fall late in the evening of Monday the 17th, the party, counting twenty-four in number, embarked on board of the Smeaton about 10 o’clock P. M., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle breeze at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying all day in compliment to the commencement of the work, the other vessels in the harbour also saluted, which made a very gay appearance. A number of the friends and acquaintances of those on board having been thus collected, the piers, though at a late hour, were perfectly crowded, and just as the Smeaton cleared the harbour, all on board united in giving three hearty cheers, which were returned by those on shore in such good earnest, that, in the still of the evening, the sound must have been heard in all parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of the venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon the responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of all who should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations he retired to his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined to move about the deck than to remain in their confined births below, his repose was transient, and the vessel being small, every motion was necessarily heard. Some who were musically inclined occasionally sung; but he listened with peculiar pleasure to the sailor at the helm, who hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,

“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft,
To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”

_Erection of the Beacon-House._

The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the morning of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was intended to lay down an additional set of chain-moorings which she had on board. Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands were called at 5 o’clock, A. M., just as the highest part of the Bell Rock began to shew its sable head among the light breakers, which occasionally whitened with the foaming sea. The two boats belonging to the floating-light attended the Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the rock, as her boat could only accommodate about six or eight sitters. Every one was more eager than his neighbour to leap into the boats, and it required a good deal of management on the part of the coxswains, to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take their places for rowing and at the same time trimming her properly. The landing-master and foreman went into one boat, while the writer took charge of another, and steered it to and from the rock. This became the more necessary in the early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for more than two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always stationed, one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off, and the other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.]

[Sidenote: Commence work at 6 A. M.]

As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of wind from the east, we landed without difficulty upon the central part of the rock at half-past 5, but the water had not yet sufficiently left it for commencing the work. This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied; the first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock were accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on occasions like the present, the steward of the ship attended, when each man was regaled with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock about 6, some began to bore the holes for the great bats or holdfasts, for fixing the beams of the Beacon-house, while the smith was fully attended in laying out the site of his forge, upon a somewhat sheltered spot of the rock, which also recommended itself from the vicinity of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These preliminary steps occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be done during this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with great eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick picked dulse (_Fucus palmatus_), which they ate with much seeming appetite; others were more intent upon collecting limpets for bait, to enjoy the amusement of fishing when they returned on board of the vessel. Indeed none came away empty handed, as every thing found upon the Bell Rock was considered valuable, being connected with some interesting association. Several coins, and numerous bits of shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every description; and, in particular, a marking-iron lettered JAMES,--a circumstance of which it was thought proper to give notice to the public, as it might lead to the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps unheard of till this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock began to be overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the respective boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule, which the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person who left the rock. Another maxim was, to allow the landing-master’s boat to proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the other boats, that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and when he had thus cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of the respective creeks; after which they proceeded in company. Upon the present occasion, the boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after having been two hours upon the rock, and three hours absent from the ship.

In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and the weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its place could not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,--a circumstance which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of this rock, even during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state of the sea. During the interval between the morning and the evening tides, the artificers were variously employed in fishing and reading, others were busy in drying and adjusting their wet clothes, and one or two amused their companions with the violin and German-flute.

[Sidenote: Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock.]

About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the rock was again rung, when every man was at his quarters. In this service it was thought more appropriate to use the bell than to _pipe_ to quarters, as the use of this instrument is less known to the mechanic than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the morning, was at the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was pretty well cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged surface of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to be extremely difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could possibly be occupied, was now employed in assisting the smith to fit up the apparatus for his forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the hearth, was now got into its place; and the four legs which supported it were let into holes, bored from six to twelve inches into the rock, according to the inequalities of the site: and then firmly wedged, first with wood, and then with iron, a method followed in all the operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly preferable to running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the anvil was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid, without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into its seat, depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its place against the effects of the sea. In this state things were left on the rock at 9 P. M., when the boats returned to the tender, after other two hours work, in the same order as formerly, perhaps as much gratified with the success that attended the work of this day, as with any other in the whole course of the operations. Although it could not be said that the fatigues of this day had been great, yet all on board retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no movement on deck, it was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that the bell awakened the greater number on board from their first sleep; and, though this observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself, yet he was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces of the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]

[Sidenote: Landing-master’s duty.]

It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer, throughout the whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as far as possible, the charge should be arranged into departments. It therefore fell to the officer termed the _Landing-master_, who was also master of the Floating-light, to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing of the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the weather, he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be rung, when the boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a special injunction laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather, when it was necessary for the boats to leave the rock and return to the tender.

[Sidenote: Indications of the weather.]

Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward with fixing the smith’s forge, on which the progress of the work at present depended, the writer requested that he might be called at day-break to learn the landing-master’s opinion of the weather, from the appearance of the rising sun, a criterion by which experienced seamen can generally judge pretty accurately of the state of the weather for the following day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the sun’s upper limb or disk had just begun to appear, as if rising from the ocean; and in less than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but after a short interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was considered emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock being still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene in itself was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled, we were gratified with the happy forebodings of good weather, and the expectation of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]

The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this morning, and landed upon the rock at 7. The water had gone off the rock sooner than was expected, for, as yet, the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with its periodic appearance, and the landing-master being rather late with his signal this morning, the artificers were enabled to proceed to work without a moment’s delay. The boat which the writer steered happened to be the last which approached the rock at this tide; and, in standing up in the stern, while at some distance, to see how the leading boat entered the creek, he was astonished to observe something in the form of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of the ledges of the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow entrance to the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his mind. He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock during the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed with dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in this situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at all events, make them much more timid in their future operations. In the midst of these reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper landing place; but, without waiting to push her off, he leapt upon the rock, and making his way hastily to the spot which had privately given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to ascertain, that he had only been deceived by the peculiar situation and aspect of the smith’s anvil and block, which very completely represented the appearance of a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully suppressed his feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad effect upon the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the evening tide.

[Sidenote: Dangerous situation in foggy weather.]

After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the forge, and boring the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-house, we again took to our boats, and left the rock at 10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting for the other till it cleared the rock, as formerly. In the course of this morning’s work, two or three apparently distant peals of thunder were heard, and the atmosphere suddenly became thick and foggy. But as the Smeaton, our present tender, was moored at no great distance from the rock, the crew on board continued blowing with a horn, and occasionally fired a musket, so that the boats got to the ship without difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however, became a serious consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change of quarters to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a few hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.

[Sidenote: Artificers amuse themselves with fishing.]

The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was transient, being what seamen term an easterly _hoar_, arising from the heat of the weather, which disappeared soon after mid-day. The weather being clear in the evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when the artificers were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and returned again to the ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of the day-light was eagerly spent in catching fish, which were got, at this time, in great abundance, both alongside of the vessel and in the boats at a distance; and in the course of an hour about five dozen of codlings were caught, which not only afforded an agreeable relaxation, but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different messes on board.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: Complete the fixing of the smith’s forge.]

The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and the sky had a heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea was smooth, though there was an undulating motion on the surface, which indicated easterly winds, and occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats found no difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening the artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past 8, having completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a wooden board or bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock, to the great joy of all, under a salute of three hearty cheers. From an oversight on the part of the smith, who had neglected to bring his tinder-box and matches from the vessel, the work was prevented from being continued for at least an hour longer.

[Sidenote: Valuable services of the smith at the Bell Rock.]

[Sidenote: Much wanted at the Eddystone.]

It may here be proper to notice, that although a considerable quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks, and other quarry-tools, had been brought, in good order, for the use of the work; yet, from the extent of work in preparing the foundations, together with the hard and compact nature of the sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is composed, the tools soon became blunt, and the work must have often been completely at a stand, had it not been for the conveniency of having a smith and his forge so near at hand. The writer doubts not that his readers may be at a loss to account for the operation of the bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it may therefore be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates of this work, to give some explanation of this _arcanum_ of Vulcan, on which the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented in Plate XI. was of course in _open space_: the large bellows were carried to and from the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition of which, together with the tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former fire, the smith was held responsible. Those who have been placed in situations to feel the inconveniency and want of this useful artizan, will be able to appreciate his value in a case like the present. Mr Smeaton often felt the want of a forge permanently upon the rock, and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-house required more extensive preparations, this useful implement could hardly have been dispensed with; but the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to have room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus. Could the operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been continued, from the commencement of the operations, even for half an hour longer every tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have added much to the facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or platform, in that case, must have been erected, to which there were a number of intervening obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the temporary inconveniency felt from the want of this additional time. It often happened, to our annoyance and disappointment, in the early state of the work, when the smith was in the middle of a _favourite heat_, in making some useful article, or in sharpening the tools, after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to strike work, a sea would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and endanger his indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was smooth, while the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide rose by imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place, or hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from below. The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety of the blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert the effects of the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection of the Beacon was looked forward to as a happy period, when the smith should be removed above the reach of the highest tides.

[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.]

[Sidenote: Seals desert the Bell Rock.]