Chapter V: Progress of the Works in the Year 1809 (1)

[Sidenote: 1809, January.]

In the month of January 1809, the winds prevailed much from the east and north-east, which never fail to produce a heavy sea on the eastern shores of Great Britain, and particularly at the Bell Rock, from its exposed position to these points. This state of the weather, therefore, rendered it extremely difficult to communicate with the Floating-light, for the purpose of relieving the seamen in their turns ashore, and supplying the ship with provisions and necessaries.

[Sidenote: Railways injured, and Bracing chain-bolts unlocked.]

It was also found impracticable to land upon the Rock itself sooner in this month than the 20th, when, after several attempts, Mr Francis Watt and Captain Wilson, two of the engineer’s assistants, landed with four seamen, and four artificers with their tools, at 12 noon, and remained till a quarter past 1 P. M. By this time several of the supports of the iron-railways on the Rock had got loose, and two of the castings forming the waggon-track and footpath had broken adrift. One of these was found at a considerable distance from its place, but the other had entirely disappeared, and must have been washed off the Rock, although it weighed upwards of 100 lb. In these gales, no fewer than ten of the bracing-chains of the Beacon were shaken entirely loose, seven of which had unscrewed the tightening-bolts, and the remaining three lifted the pieces of rock into which the chain-bats had been fixed. The tightening-bolts were again screwed up, and pieces of small wire twisted round the points of the screws, to prevent the nuts from unlocking. The three bolts, with their chains, which had lifted the parts of the rock, were disengaged from the Beacon altogether, to prevent injury to the wooden beams, by their motion with the force of the sea; and things were otherwise left in as serviceable a state as the circumstances of a limited stay upon the Rock at this season of the year would admit. It was, upon the whole, highly satisfactory to learn, that the Beacon, this important auxiliary to the operations, had received no material injury, after such a continued tract of stormy weather; the great iron stanchions sunk into the Rock, which kept the main beams in their places, and all the joints and fixtures of the higher parts of the framed work, being quite entire, and without the smallest appearance of having shifted.

[Sidenote: Proofs of strong currents in the Sea.]

On this trip to the Rock, the Light-house Yacht picked up a floating-buoy belonging to the navigation of the river Weser. It was marked “Bremen 1808, W. R. No. 2.,” and measured six feet in length, and three feet in diameter over the head, being of the form known to mariners as a Cann buoy. It appeared to have drifted, in the course of this winter, from the shores of Germany, which, in a direct line, is a distance of at least 340 miles. This circumstance, as the buoy presented, while afloat, but a small surface for the wind to act upon, being heavily bound with iron, and having about two fathoms of mooring chain appended to it, affords an extraordinary proof of the effects of the tides and currents in the ocean. We may likewise here notice, among other instances corroborative of this curious anomaly of the tides, the drifting, within the same period, of part of the apparatus belonging to the works of the Bell Rock; particularly the two buoys, formerly mentioned, that parted from their moorings, and came ashore, the one, along with a raft of timber, at Fifeness, and the other at the Island of May, after having been upwards of two months at sea. But, perhaps, the most remarkable occurrence of this kind, was that of the Praam-boat, also formerly mentioned, which broke loose from the Floating-light, and was found at the Redhead about 13 miles distant, having been at sea for the space of three months and eight days.

[Sidenote: Three large drift-stones found upon the Rock.]

The artificers again landed at the Rock on the morning of the 31st at 7 o’clock, being rather before _day-break_, and left it again at 10, after having been on it about three hours. Several of the bracing-chains were found loosened, notwithstanding the precautions hitherto used for preventing the bolts from unlocking. But the writer had resolved, when the weather would admit, to remove these chains altogether, and introduce strong bars of malleable iron, about eight feet above the Rock, as represented in Plate VIII., to connect the several beams in a horizontal direction. At this landing, three large masses of rock were found close to the Beacon, which had been drifted upon the Rock by the force of the sea. They were of various dimensions, the largest containing no less than about 20 cubic feet, equal perhaps to a ton and a quarter in weight. After a careful examination, in every direction, of the low-water surface of the rock, it was ascertained that these stones had formed no part of it, though of the same description of rock; and it was therefore concluded, they must have been thrown up from deep water. The refitting of the chains of the Beacon and the cast-iron Railways, so occupied the time of the artificers, that they could not get the stones so broken as to be removed, and thereby prevent their being perhaps thrown, by the force of the sea, against the Beacon and Railways, like so many battering rams.

[Sidenote: February.]

During the month of February, the weather continued to be extremely boisterous, and it was not without considerable difficulty that the Floating-light could be visited at the stated periods; while two unsuccessful attempts were made, on the 1st and 20th, to land at the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Progress of the Works at Arbroath, and exertions made at the Quarries.]

In the work-yard, the preparation of the several courses of the building was going progressively forward. The Ninth course was now finished, and part of the Tenth laid upon the platform. At Mylnefield Quarry, the operations were at a stand; for in winter, as formerly mentioned, no work is done here, owing to the liability of the stones to split in frosty weather, especially when newly taken from the quarry, the laminæ of the strata being then charged with moisture. But, as granite imbibes water very slowly, and is not liable to those changes, every exertion continued to be made at the quarries of Aberdeenshire, that, if possible, the outside casing of granite might be carried to the height of 30 feet, or to the top of the solid part of the building, instead of 16 feet, or to high-water mark, as had been latterly intended. The stone-agent at Aberdeen, accordingly, had a person traversing the numerous quarries in that neighbourhood, while one of the foremen from the work-yard at Arbroath, was similarly employed, during the winter months, at Peterhead; and whenever a stone was found answerable to the Light-house moulds, it was immediately purchased, and laid aside for the use of the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: 1809, February.]

[Sidenote: Employment of Shipping.]

The sloops Smeaton and Alexander made several trips to the North, and also to Mylnefield, near Dundee, for stones which had been quarried in the course of the summer months, and were in no danger from the frost; but owing to the difficult nature of the navigation of the Tay in winter, these voyages were frequently attended with considerable danger. On the last trip which the Smeaton made to this quarry, she had a very narrow escape, and lost both her boat and an anchor; but the hazardous state of the vessel and all on board, will be better understood by the following very distinct and explicit letter or journal from Mr Thomas Calder, commander of the Light-house Yacht, who, on this occasion, was acting master on board of the Smeaton.

[Sidenote: Captain Calder’s account of a trip to the Tay.]

_“Arbroath, 25th February 1809._

“Mr STEVENSON.

“Sir,--At 3 o’clock P. M., on the 21st inst., I got under way from the South Ferry Roads for Mylnefield quarry, wind at West. At 7 were about a mile from the quarry pierhead. Light airs of wind. Got beset amongst ice, and brought up with the small bower-anchor. At midnight, all hands employed hanging fenders over the bows and sides, to save the vessel from getting cut with the ice.

“At day-light, on the 22d., being high-water, got under way; ice all round, and had frequently to let go an anchor, to allow it to drift past us. Could not get up to the quarry, and at 10 put into Dundee. During the remainder of this day had light breezes, with hard frost.

“On the 23d, at 7 A. M. got again under way, with a westerly wind, but still could not make up to the quarry. At 10, had drifted down as far as the Lights of Tay, having little wind, but a heavy sea from E.SE. At 11, the boat filled, and was turned bottom up; nothing could be done for her safety; cut her adrift. At noon, had a very heavy sea on our broadside, breaking over all, with little or no wind. Got into three fathoms water, the sea sweeping every thing off the deck that was moveable. All hands in the rigging for safety, except the man at the helm. Endeavour if possible to get back, but all in vain. Let go our anchor in two fathoms water, the sea breaking over all. At 9 o’clock P. M., being then high-water, let go the best bower-anchor. At midnight calm weather, with heavy breaking seas.

“At 9 A. M. of the 24th, got under way again, and took our fate, being in much peril to ride longer. Could not purchase our anchor, and were therefore obliged to cut the cable. Had light airs of wind, but still a heavy sea. Went over the bank in going out of the Tay, and, at 9 in the evening, had the good fortune to get into Arbroath. In the course of this trip we saw one sloop sink with all hands in the rigging, while close by us, but we could render them no assistance, and we were still drifting towards the shore. Another sloop, named the Lady Kinnaird, I believe bound for Leith, God only knows what her fate was; being thick with snow I lost sight of her frequently. It was often impossible for a man to stand on deck; and we took to the rigging for safety. The Smeaton and these two vessels being a long way a-head of six of the Dundee London smacks, were certainly the means of saving them. The ship’s company is now employed in rigging the Light-house Yacht, and fitting her for sea. I am, Sir, your humble servant,

THO^S. CALDER.”

[Sidenote: 1809, March.]

[Sidenote: Large Stones removed. Joisting of platform lifted by the sea.]

The month of March set in with some pretty good weather, and eight artificers landed upon the Rock on the 5th, at half-past 11 A. M., and remained till half-past 1, when they got the three large stones, formerly mentioned as lying near the Beacon, broken, and reduced to such a size as to admit of their removal. Several of the fixtures of the Railways had got loose, and were again secured; and two lengths of the waggon-tracks were broken to pieces by the movement of the above mentioned stones, which, in their progress across the rock, had made indelible ruts upon it. The bracing-chains of the Beacon still required to be screwed up; but the essential parts of this fabric were in the most entire and perfect state; although all the joisting of the lower platform, excepting three pieces, had been carried away. The deals of this floor had been lifted at the end of the working season, being only about 30 feet above the Rock, but the joisting presented so little resistance to the waves, that it had been allowed to remain, being only fixed in a slender manner, that both the floor and the joisting might lift with the force of the sea, without endangering the safety of the Beacon.

[Sidenote: A vessel in danger of being wrecked on the Bell Rock.]

On this occasion, the people of the Floating-light informed the landing party, that they had just been spoken to by the crew of a large brig from Gottenburgh, bound for Liverpool. This vessel having got out of her reckoning, had been lying-to in the entrance of the Firth for three days, not knowing the land. But having been directed as to their situation, the strangers now shaped their course for the Orkneys. Had it not been for these instructions, this vessel, in all probability, might have been wrecked on the Bell Rock; and, therefore, looking prospectively to the completion of this work, we may see its extensive and important advantages to shipping.

[Sidenote: Fourteenth course laid on the platform, and further progress of the Work.]

During the remainder of this month, no opportunity occurred for landing on the Rock, but the other departments of the service went forward with all possible dispatch. The Thirteenth course was nearly completed, and a part of the Fourteenth had been laid on the platform. The last of the moulds for the granite stones, to the height of 30 feet, had now been sent to the quarries of Aberdeen and Peterhead, where the Smeaton, and the hired sloop Alexander, were each loading a cargo. Mr Peter Logan had now left the quarries at Peterhead, where he had been for some months; and Alexander Davidson, one of the principal granite masons, appointed to attend the quarries at Aberdeen, was also soon to be removed from that station, to perform the same duty at the sandstone quarry of Mylnefield. Measures had likewise been taken for providing the necessary castings for the extension of the Railways to the western landing place at the Rock, which altogether were to include a range of about 800 feet.

[Sidenote: Cast-iron Mushroom Anchors. Difficulty in procuring Trenails.]

The uncertainty attending the fixing of the malleable iron shank into the large cast-iron head of the mushroom anchor, represented in Plate X. Fig. 4., from its liability to shake loose, had induced the writer to make trial of a mushroom anchor, made wholly of cast-iron, which was finished in a very complete manner by the Shotts Iron Company. At the same works, castings were also made for a set of new sheers for those broken in the month of September at the eastern landing creek, which answered all the purposes of a crane, as represented in Plate XI. The two new praam-boats building at Arbroath, had advanced considerably in the course of this month, and were now ready for the laying of the decks. Of all the materials connected with those which may be termed of a trifling nature, none was more difficult to be procured than the oaken trenails, for fixing the stones of the lower or solid part of the building while the work was in progress. After much correspondence with London and other ports, a considerable quantity was procured from trenail merchants of Wapping. But such was the demand for oak timber at this period, owing to the great supply wanted for the Navy, that it was not only at a considerable expence, from about L. 3 to L. 5 per hundred, but with great difficulty, that trenails of the dimensions wanted could be collected. It was found by a calculation, at this time, that 2544 trenails, from 20 to 26 inches in length, and 1¼ inches in diameter, and 3720 pairs of wedges, from 15 to 19 inches in length, 3 inches in breadth, and 1 inch in thickness at the top, would still be wanted. Fortunately, however, a great quantity of oak timber, suitable for trenails, was brought about this time from the Highland districts to Perth, for making the spokes of carriage-wheels. A supply of these was accordingly got, at a much cheaper rate than the ordinary trenails of the carpenter, and which were also considered better for the purposes of the work.

[Sidenote: Purchase of the Sloop Patriot.]

In order that the building operations at the Rock might suffer as little delay as possible, from the difficulty attending the regular transportation of the stones from Arbroath, and also to provide against the numerous accidents to which the vessels in this service were incident, it was judged proper to have another vessel besides the Smeaton for this department of the service. The writer consequently corresponded with various ports, with a view to procure a vessel of about 40 tons burden, or nearly the size of the Smeaton. Two vessels of this description were offered for sale, at the same price of L. 470; but one of them, the sloop Patriot of Kirkaldy, was stated to be a new vessel, which had hardly been at sea, while the other was several years old; the Kirkaldy vessel was therefore preferred.

[Sidenote: 1809, April.]

On the 5th and 6th April, the boats of the Floating-light landed the artificers on the Bell Rock at 11 o’clock A. M., and they remained till 1, having had two hours’ work each tide in refitting the railways, and setting up the bracing-chains of the Beacon, which were still found in a loose state. Notwithstanding all the precautions used, one of them had unscrewed its nut to the extent of 3 inches, by the friction arising from the agitation of the sea, but every thing else was found to be in good order.

[Sidenote: Floating-light encounters some heavy seas.]

From the 6th to the 20th, the weather was particularly boisterous, the winds being chiefly from the eastward, with occasional showers of snow. On the 16th it was found necessary to veer out the cable of the Floating-light from the 30th to the 90th fathom service; and, on the 17th, at 2 o’clock A. M., she had shipped so heavy a sea, that it filled both of the boats amid-ships, and ran down the companion and hatches in such quantities as to give great alarm to all on board, who, for a time, concluded that the vessel was sinking.

[Sidenote: Twelfth course completed by the Stone-cutters.]

About the beginning of this month, the stone-cutters in the workyard had just completed the hewing of the sandstone or hearting of the Fourteenth course of the building: but those employed at the granite blocks of the course were at a stand, both with that and the Thirteenth course, for want of materials: a supply, however, having timeously arrived from Aberdeen and Peterhead, these courses were proceeded with, though, as yet, none higher than the Twelfth was in a finished state. As the sandstone masons were considerably ahead of those who wrought the granite, the former were chiefly employed in laying the courses on the platform, and boring the trenail holes. The necessary implements were also prepared, and in readiness for shipping for the Rock, with 62 barrels of lime, 78 barrels of pozzolano, and 60 barrels of sand.

[Sidenote: Employment of Shipping.]

The Light-house Yacht was now fitted out for her voyage with stores for the Northern Light-houses, and the other general business connected with her department. The Sir Joseph Banks Tender was ready for sea by the 17th of April; and the Smeaton and Alexander were still making trips to the quarries, and occasionally supplying the Floating-light with provisions.

[Sidenote: Sloop Patriot condemned.]

[Sidenote: Opinion of Mr Solicitor-General Boyle.]

The sloop Patriot, of 45 register tons, formerly mentioned as having been purchased for the work, had her hatches enlarged, for the conveniency of loading and delivering stones; and was otherwise fitted up for the service at the Rock. On the 20th, she took on board five cast-iron mushroom anchors, with chains and floating-buoys, together with a quantity of cast-iron work for extending the Railways. With this cargo she sailed from Leith on the 21st of April, reached the Bell Rock on the morning of the 22d, and was discharged with the assistance of the boats of the Tender and Floating-light. In the course of this trip, the Patriot was observed to make a considerable quantity of water; and instead, therefore, of proceeding for the quarries for a cargo of stone, it was found necessary to send her to Arbroath for examination, when James Macdonald, the master, reported that he could not proceed to sea until the vessel underwent repair. A warrant was accordingly obtained from the Judge-Admiral for a survey of carpenters, who declared her “not sea-worthy.” On farther opening the bottom planks, it appeared, that, upon the starboard-bow, both planks and trenails were in a state of decay, and the expence of the necessary repairs was estimated at L. 80. Upon this report of the carpenters being produced, a correspondence was entered into with the late owner of the vessel, who resisted the charge; and the matter being submitted by the Light-house Board to Mr Solicitor-General Boyle, then _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners, (now Lord Justice-Clerk,) he was of opinion, from the circumstance of the Patriot’s having been sold as an almost new vessel, that the late owner was liable for the estimated repairs. Upon this opinion being made known, the sum of L. 80 was immediately paid, and the vessel was put under repair.

[Sidenote: Two Praams launched.]

Two of the praam-boats built at Arbroath had been launched, by the names of “Fernie,” and “Dickie,” after the respective builders, and were fitted out with complete sets of warps and grapplings for landing the stones at the Bell Rock. Every thing being in readiness for commencing the operations, it was fully expected that the solid part would be completed in the course of the ensuing season, and the Light-house thus carried to the height of 30 feet.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails. Floating light put under charge of Mr Reid.]

The Sir Joseph Banks Tender, having been fitted out for sea, sailed on the 20th of April, with the Hedderwick praam-boat in tow, to attend the works at the Bell Rock. She had also on board 15 artificers, consisting of mill-wrights, joiners, smiths and masons, to be employed in extending the Railways, and fitting up the Beacon-house as a place of residence for the workmen. Having left the harbour of Arbroath at 5 A. M., the Floating-light was hailed at 8, when her boat came alongside with Captain Wilson, the landing-master, who was now to leave his charge on board of the Floating-light for a time, and attend as landing-master at the Bell Rock, while Mr John Reid, mariner, and principal light-keeper, took charge as master of the Floating-light, acting in these capacities with much credit to himself and advantage to the service.

[Sidenote: Two sets of Moorings laid down.]

The first attention of the landing-master was to lay down a mushroom-anchor, weighing 18 cwt. 1 qr. with 32 fathoms of ⅞th inch chain, in 13 fathoms water, as the future moorings of the Tender; the Beacon on the Bell Rock bearing E. by S. distant ¼ mile. A set of moorings were also laid down about 300 fathoms to the eastward of this for the praam-boat, with a mushroom-anchor, weighing 15 cwt. 24 lb., with 25 fathoms of chain, in 11 fathoms water. The artificers, having left the Tender in two boats, landed on the Rock at 9 A.M. and returned on board again at half-past 12 noon. But, in the afternoon, the weather becoming more coarse, with the wind from the NE., accompanied with showers of snow, a landing was not attempted in the evening.

[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.]

[Sidenote: Tender slips her moorings.]

The wind to-day being still from the NE., a heavy sea set upon the Rock. The artificers, notwithstanding, left the Tender in two boats, at 10 A. M., but, after various attempts to land at the western creek, it was found impracticable, and the boats returned to the vessel at half past 11; when the Tender was found to ride so heavily at her moorings, that it was judged advisable to slip her hawser; when she set sail, and at 5 P. M. anchored in the bay of Arbroath; but, in the course of the night, she again returned to her moorings off the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 22d.]

[Sidenote: Other three sets of Moorings laid down.]

The wind having come round to the south to-day, the weather had moderated; and at 10 A. M. the artificers landed, their number having been augmented by nine additional men from Leith, so that they now counted twenty-five. The latter part of this day was employed in laying down three sets of moorings with mushroom-anchors, weighing from 15 to 23 cwt., for the use of the Stone-Lighters, and other craft employed at the work. The positions of these, as nearly as may be, will be seen in Plate V.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 23d.]

[Sidenote: Artificers cannot land.]

At 6 A. M. the artificers left the vessel, with an intention to land on the Beacon at high-water, but there being too much sea, they returned without effecting their purpose. At one P. M., being low-water, fifteen of them made a landing, and remained till 4 o’clock, making preparations for commencing the operations at the Railways and Beacon-house. This afternoon the Smeaton supplied the Floating-light and Tender with necessaries, and returned to Arbroath, carrying with her twelve of the artificers for the work-yard.

[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.]

At 7 A. M. the artificers left the Tender, and landed on the Beacon, where they remained all the day. The masons, who could only be employed on the Rock during low-water, in boring holes for the bats, and in dressing the Rock for the supports of the Railways, landed at 1 P. M., and left off work at 3, having been two hours at work, when the tide overflowed the Rock; but the joiners and smiths continued on the Beacon till 7 P. M.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.]

During these twenty-four hours the wind was from the westward, with moderate breezes and showers of rain. At half-past 6 A. M., the smiths and joiners landed on the Beacon, and continued the whole day. At half-past 3 P. M., the low-water artificers landed, and the whole returned again on board of the Tender at half-past 8.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.]

[Sidenote: Sailors account for the unsettled state of the weather.]

The weather continued to be very unsettled, and there being still great quantities of snow lying on the hills of Angus, it was an observation made by the sailors, “That the wind never continued twenty-four hours in one direction, while there was any whiteness on the Braes of Angus.” To-day, it was at E.NE., with strong breezes and hazy weather. At half-past 8 the joiners and smiths left the vessel for the Rock, but could not make a landing, and returned again at half-past 9, when she immediately slipped her moorings and sailed for Arbroath, to wait the return of the spring-tides.

[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]

At Arbroath, the several departments of the work went forward with alacrity, and the courses of the building, as high as the 19th, were now ready for shipment. The Patriot having undergone a complete repair, was equipped for sea. The Smeaton was employed chiefly in attending the quarries at Mylnefield, and the Alexander those of Aberdeenshire. The Tender took on board provisions, water, and other necessaries for the supply of the Floating-light and artificers, and also some of the dressed timber for fitting up the cabins of the higher parts of the Beacon-house.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails for the Rock.]

The Tender accordingly left the harbour of Arbroath this morning, under the command of Mr David Taylor, and sailed for the Bell Rock with Mr Francis Watt and eighteen artificers. At 6 A. M. they spoke the Floating-light, and got Mr James Wilson, the landing-master, on board. The wind being from the westward with moderate breezes, the artificers were landed at 7 A. M., and remained on the Rock till 11 P. M. While the water was low they were employed at refitting and extending the Railways; and when the Rock was overflowed, they ascended to the Beacon, and continued their operations. The wind came to blow so fresh from the N.W., or in the direction of the Tender’s moorings from the Rock, that it was not judged safe to make her fast; and as soon as the artificers got on board, she beat to windward and got into St Andrew’s bay for the night.

[Sidenote: 1809, May.]

[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.]

In the morning the Tender stood again towards the Bell Rock. In the course of the day the wind shifted from W.NW. to N.E. The writer reached the Rock this morning, in the Smeaton, at half-past 7, when he landed with nineteen artificers, and remained till noon, and then went on board of the Tender, now at her moorings.

[Sidenote: Writer visits the Rock.]

The several tides’ work which had been got upon the Rock this season, had enabled the artificers to refit the damage which the railways had sustained during the winter months, and to make further progress with the great circular track round the building, which measured fifty-five feet in diameter; but, as yet, the western reach had made but little advancement. The fitting up of the temporary residence on the higher part of the Beacon, began to make some more habitable-like appearance; the joistings for the respective floors were laid, and a few of the upright spars of the framing had also been set up. This work continued to create much interest with every one connected with the operations, as its completion was to relieve those affected with the sea-sickness, and the whole troop from the continual plague of boating to and from the Rock by day and night. Having examined the works here, the writer left the Rock at 11 P. M. with the artificers, who went on board of the Tender, while he embarked in the Smeaton and sailed for Arbroath.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2d.]

It blew so fresh, from West to N.W., that no landing could be made to-day, and the Tender was obliged to slip her moorings, and beat up into St Andrew’s bay, to pass the night in smooth water.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3d.]

[Sidenote: Some timber is landed.]

The wind was still blowing fresh from the same quarter, and, of course, directly upon the Rock from the moorings of the Tender; it was therefore judged proper, in the present unsettled state of the weather, that she should keep under sail, instead of making fast. At 9 A. M. the artificers landed, and returned on board at 1 P. M. In the evening they again landed and remained till 9. Notwithstanding the state of the weather, several boat-loads of timber and iron were landed for the use of the Railways and Beacon.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.]

From the state of the winds at W.NW., instead of making fast to her moorings, the Tender kept plying about the Rock all day, and passed the night reaching about in St Andrew’s Bay, and returned to the Rock at the proper time of tide in the morning. At 7 A. M., eighteen artificers landed, and remained at work till 6 P. M., when they again returned on board.

[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.]

This morning, Captain Taylor embraced the opportunity of the wind having veered to the north, to make the Tender fast to her moorings, but there was too much wind and sea for landing on the Rock. The vessel was, therefore, made as snug as possible, with her top-masts struck, her yards lowered, and boltsprit run in, to enable her to ride more easily.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.]

[Sidenote: Tender in danger of drifting upon the Rock.]

The wind was at North to-day, and the weather being more moderate, Mr Watt, with eight of the artificers, landed at 6 A. M., on the Beacon, and at 10, being then low-water, the remaining twelve followed. At half-past 3 P. M., the whole returned on board, as the wind blew very hard. The boltsprit was launched out, and the ship was got ready for sea, in case of the wind shifting to the N.W., which might endanger the vessel’s drifting upon the Rock.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.]

The wind remained in the same direction, but the weather was much more moderate, and at 7 A. M., eight artificers left the vessel for the Beacon, where they were employed at the upper works. At 10 the remaining twelve artificers landed and continued at work till 4 P. M., when the whole returned on board of the vessel. At 5, the joiners and smiths again went to the Beacon, and remained till half-past 8.

[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.]

At 6 A. M., the artificers employed at the Beacon landed, and at noon the low-water workmen followed, and returned on board again at 5 P. M. At 9, the joiners and smiths also returned to the vessel for the night. The weather was so fine to-day, that the crew of the Tender were enabled to paint her upper works; for, although this had been intended all the season, yet the present was the first favourable opportunity.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.]

[Sidenote: Artificers return to Arbroath.]

The weather still continued moderate, but as the tides became neap, little could now be done to the Railways. The operations were, therefore, confined, at this time, chiefly to the upper works of the Beacon. At 6 A. M., eight artificers went to the Beacon, and at half-past 10, the other twelve landed on the Rock, and remained till half-past 1. At 6 P. M., the whole came on board, when the vessel made sail for Arbroath, to wait the return of spring-tides.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.]

[Sidenote: Tender sails for the Rock.]

The Sir Joseph Banks having been supplied with necessaries for the ensuing spring-tides, left Arbroath at 2 A. M., having in tow the Hedderwick praam-boat; and at 2 P. M., both the ship and praam were made fast to their respective moorings, when six joiners and two smiths were landed on the Beacon. At 5, the remaining eighteen artificers landed on the Rock, and continued till 9, when the whole returned on board of the Tender, after a good evening’s work at the Railways and cabins of the Beacon.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.]

[Sidenote: Joiners get high premiums. One of them is hurt.]

At half-past 6 A. M., twenty-seven artificers landed on the rock, and returned again at half-past 9. At half-past 10, the joiners and smiths again went to the Beacon, and at 6 P. M. the remaining eighteen artificers landed, and the whole returned to the ship at half-past 9; the masons having been six hours and a half on the rock to-day, while the joiners and smiths were about fourteen hours at work on the rock and Beacon together, so that their premiums for extra hours’ work, independently of their stated pay and allowances, were considerable, averaging about L. 3 per month for the workmen, and double that sum for the foremen. Unfortunately, one of the joiners was pretty severely hurt, by the fall of a mason’s pick upon one of his feet, from the smith’s gallery on the Beacon, which disabled him for some time from working in the water.

[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.]

[Sidenote: The work makes rapid progress.]

The weather continuing moderate, and the tides being good, the work went on without interruption during these tides. This morning at half-past 6 o’clock, twenty-seven artificers landed on the rock, and continued till a quarter past 10. At noon, the joiners and smiths returned to the Beacon, and commenced their operations, as usual, at the higher parts of it; and at half-past 6, or at low-water, the remaining eighteen artificers landed, when the whole were employed at the railways, fixing mooring rings, and laying down small floating-buoys as guides for the landing-master, in approaching the rock from the westward with the loaded praams. In all these operations, the sailors took an active part, and the number of hands at work to-day, including them, amounted to thirty-eight. In this manner, the work was continued without any material interruption during five days. The low-water operations, including the night-tides, generally continued for six hours, and the joiners and smiths, for twelve or fourteen hours each day.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: One of the Buoys gets water-logged. Tender leaves her station.]

The wind, which had been easterly during these spring-tides, continued moderate till yesterday, when it blew what sailors term a _stiff breeze_, which soon set up a considerable sea upon the Rock, and the tides being now in the state of neap, no landing was attempted to-day. One of the mooring buoys having got water-logged, must soon have disappeared and sunk, had not the Tender been hauled alongside, when it was taken upon deck. An auger-hole was bored in it and the water let off, being what the sailors term “_bleeding_;” when the hole was closed with a plug, and the buoy was again lowered in the water, and floated as before. The spring-tides being now considered over, the Tender sailed for the bay of Arbroath, where she was made fast to a set of moorings laid down for the conveniency of the work during the summer months, and at 8 P. M. the artificers came on shore in the boats.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.]

[Sidenote: Tender again sails for the Rock.]

The operations at the Rock, during the last spring-tides, had exhausted the stock of timber, of which a great quantity could not be kept either on board of the Tender, or on the Beacon, while much loss and inconveniency had frequently been experienced by attempting to keep it afloat in rafts. At 5 o’clock this morning, the boats left Arbroath with seventeen artificers, and two rafts of timber, which were taken on board of the Tender, when she immediately sailed for the Bell Rock. But there being little wind, it was 7 in the evening before she was made fast to her moorings; and, from the state of the tide, no landing was made this evening.

[Sidenote: Monday, 22d.]

[Sidenote: Great exertions made in laying the circular track of Railway.]

The weather was moderate to-day, and, at 9 A. M., Mr Watt and the artificers left the vessel for the Beacon; but the wind having been at S.E., it was with great difficulty that a landing was effected. At half-past 11, the masons and other low-water artificers landed, and proceeded with the operations of the railways; but the spring-tides being as yet very languid, little work was done, and the boats returned to the Tender in about an hour and a half. The joiners and smiths, however, continued their operations on the higher parts of the Beacon till 9 P. M. Had it not been a matter of extreme importance to get the circular track of the Railway completed, so that the waggons might be wheeled round the site of the building, and the materials brought within reach of the building-cranes in every direction, as will be understood from Plates VI. and IX., the artificers, at this period of the tides, would not have remained at the Rock, but have returned to the work-yard at Arbroath. In this stage of the work, however, the gaining of a single tide was an object of great moment to its future progress.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 23d.]

[Sidenote: Attempt made to erect one of the cranes.]

The artificers employed at the Beacon, landed upon it at 6 o’clock A.M., being then high-water. At 12 noon, one of the building cranes was brought to the Rock in a praam, by the landing-master’s crew; but, as the water did not leave the Rock sufficiently for getting hold of the ring-bats of the guy-tackles, the crane could not be set up: it was therefore laid upon the building, and made fast to Lewis-bats fixed in the upper course, and left in that state for the present. The praam-boat was towed to her moorings at 2 o’clock P. M., but the joiners and smiths continued at work till 10 o’clock, when they came on board of the Tender.

[Sidenote: Smeaton sails with the first stones this season.]

Things being now in a state of preparation for commencing the building operations for the season, the sloop Smeaton was loaded with twenty-six blocks of stone belonging to the Fifth course. She had also on board a few casks of pozzolano, cement, lime, and sand, with trenails, wedges, and other materials connected with the building. At 5 P. M., the writer embarked with Mr Peter Logan the building-foreman, Captain Wilson the landing-master, and fifteen masons, and sailed for the Bell Rock with the first cargo of stones for this season’s operations. The wind was moderate, but being easterly, it was not till 9 o’clock that the vessel reached the floating-light, when the writer, accompanied by the landing-master, went on board to examine her moorings after the gales of winter, while the Smeaton continued her course to the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.]

[Sidenote: Floating light’s moorings examined.]

The last night was the first that the writer had passed in his old quarters on board of the Floating-light for about twelve months, when the weather was so fine, and the sea so smooth, that even here he felt but little or no motion, excepting at the turn of the tide, when the vessel gets into what the seamen term the _trough of the sea_. At 5 A. M., all hands were called to man the windlass for heaving up the moorings, consisting of a cast-iron mushroom anchor, weighing 17 cwt., and forty fathoms of chain, made from bars of iron one and a half inch square, and a hempen cable of 120 fathoms, measuring 16 inches in circumference. At 6, the crew began to lay the part of this cable upon deck that had been in the hold, and afterwards to heave up that which was in the water: the whole was found in a serviceable condition, excepting where the operation of _worming and rounding_ had been used to defend the part which was most liable to be chafed on the ground. This operation consists in warping a small rope of about two and a half inches in circumference, round between the strands or hollows in the cable, so as to give the whole a more uniform surface. This small rope, however, was found in several places, to cut yarns of the cable, and appeared to be attended with very bad consequences. The master and mate therefore concurred in opinion, that the worming should be discontinued in future, as the small rope stretched more than the cable, and chafed it. There was also a small rope wound round the cable in a circular form, which, being laid with parcelling, or strips of canvas, was a good defence to it.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.]

[Sidenote: State of the Floating-light’s Moorings.]

At 8 A. M., the best bower-anchor and cable were in readiness to be let go, to hold the ship while the mushroom-anchor was lifted. The crew then began to heave up the mooring-chain, which had now been in the water upwards of two years. The first 10 fathoms of the chain were distinctly observed to have suffered by the action of the marine acid. The links had a grooved-like appearance, perhaps, from the softer parts of the iron being wasted, in the lengthway of the link, and those parts which were more hard were observed in a raised form like threads; but at the weldings or joinings of the links, where the iron was more consolidated, from having received additional beating, it had not suffered oxidation in the slightest degree. The next 10 fathoms of the chain had also a slight appearance of waste. It may be remarked, that the half of the chain next to the hempen cable, was generally suspended between the ship and the ground, in moderate weather, and was therefore more exposed to waste from the current of the tides than the half next to the anchor. On heaving up this last part, which lay chiefly on the ground, it was found to be almost as free of rust, some trifling spots excepted, as when it was first laid down: in general, the hammer marks, and even somewhat of the bluish appearance peculiar to the surface of forged iron, were perceptible. The mushroom-anchor had not sustained the slightest change, and, although the ground was rather soft, did not appear to have been imbedded in the mud; so that the ship had rode chiefly by the weight of the chain. On narrowly examining it, when laid upon deck, two of the links were observed to be insufficient, the rust having exposed the faulty parts to view. These defective links were accordingly broken out or removed, and the sound ones connected by means of shackles, kept on board for this purpose. At noon, after seven hours of hard labour, the examination of the moorings was completed, and the writer left the Floating-light, accompanied by the landing-master, to attend the work on the Rock at low-water.

[Sidenote: State of the works at the Rock.]

At 6 A. M. Mr Watt, who conducted the operations of the Railways and Beacon-house, had landed with nine artificers. At half-past 1 P. M., Mr Peter Logan had also landed with fifteen masons, and immediately proceeded to set up the crane, which still lay lashed to the building. The sheer-crane or apparatus for lifting the stones out of the praam-boats at the eastern creek had been already erected, and the Railways now formed about two-thirds of an entire circle round the building: some progress had likewise been made with the Reach towards the western landing-place. The external framing of the cabins of the Beacon was in the state described in the second year’s work, and partly represented in Plate IX. The floors being also laid, the Beacon now assumed the appearance of a habitation. The Smeaton was at her moorings, with the Fernie Praam-boat astern, for which she was laying down moorings, and the Tender being also at her station, the Bell Rock had again put on its former busy aspect. At 11 A. M., the Hedderwick praam was loaded with 11 stones, which were safely landed upon the Rock: and at 2 P. M. the Fernie was loaded with 16 stones, and towed to her moorings, to wait the proper time of tide for getting to the Rock. The Smeaton being discharged, she sailed for Arbroath at 5 P. M.

[Sidenote: Plants and Animals on the building.]

The wind was from the east, with light airs, and there was hardly any ruffle or motion on the surface of the water. The masons were chiefly employed during this tide in clearing the upper course of the building from sea-weed, of which, since the month of September, it had acquired a thick coating. The weed consisted chiefly of _Fucus digitatus_, which, on the new wall, had attained the length of about 18 inches, with a proportional thickness of stalk and breadth of frond, during the preceding eight or nine months. The barnacle was also pretty numerous, and a good many white buckies and small mussels had attached themselves to several parts of the building. The masons left the Rock this evening at 6 o’clock, having had four hours and a half’s work; but the joiners and smiths continued till 10 P. M., and had therefore been 16 hours on the Rock to-day.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 25th.]

At half-past 2 this morning, the landing-master’s bell was rung on board of the Tender; and at a quarter past 3, the writer landed with fifteen masons, nine mill-wrights and joiners, two blacksmiths, and ten seamen, in all thirty-six, with their respective foremen. The low-water work continued two hours and a half, when those employed at the Beacon were left as usual to continue their operations. In the afternoon, at 3 o’clock, the builders were again landed, and remained on the Rock till 8, having been five hours at work, when all hands returned on board of the Tender.

[Sidenote: Friday, 26th.]

The wind had shifted to the south, with fresh breezes, which set a considerable sea upon the Rock. The boats landed the artificers at a quarter past 3 this morning, who continued on the Rock till a quarter past 6, when it was overflowed. They landed again at a quarter past 3 P. M., and remained till a quarter past 6, when all hands returned on board of the Tender for the night. The masons, for the two last days, were employed in cutting out the square joggle-holes in the upper course of last season’s work, represented with deep shaded lines in Plate XIII., which were not, as usual, cut in the respective stones before they left the work-yard, that there might be the less resistance to the waves during the storms of winter. The seamen were employed this tide in landing wedges and trenails, with cement, lime, sand, and pozzolano, the necessary materials for mortar: these were stowed on the mortar gallery or the lower floor of the Beacon-house; which, in a work of this nature, was found to be of inestimable value for this purpose. The mill-wrights, joiners, and smiths continued their operations as formerly at the Railways and upper part of the Beacon.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 27th.]

[Sidenote: Builders commence and lay 5 stones.]

The landing-master’s bell rung this morning at half-past 4, and at a quarter past 5, the artificers and seamen, thirty-six in number, commenced work, and continued for 2 hours and a half. The crane having been raised, and the necessary preparations made for beginning the building for the season, five stones of the Fifth course were landed and laid. In the afternoon, the artificers returned to the Rock at a quarter past 4, and remained till 9, when other five stones were laid. The seamen landed six stones with the Hedderwick praam, and sixteen stones with the Fernie, being her first cargo. The mill-wrights, joiners, and smiths, were employed at the Railways, and fitting up the cabins of the Beacon-house.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 28th.]

[Sidenote: 22 stones laid.]

Landed this morning at half-past 5, and continued at work till a quarter to 9; and, in the evening tide, the work commenced at a quarter past 5, and continued till 9, when all hands left the Rock. The landing-master’s crew brought two cargoes of the praam-boats to the Rock, consisting of 22 stones, which were laid or built. During the first and middle parts of these twenty-four hours, the wind was from the west, blowing fresh, but towards the evening it shifted to the N.E., with rain.

[Sidenote: Monday, 29th.]

[Sidenote: Tender rides very hard.]

The wind having blown fresh all night, and a considerable sea set up, there was no possibility of landing on the Rock to-day. In the course of the night it blew so fresh, that Captain Taylor struck the top-masts of the Tender, launched in her boltsprit, hoisted the boats on board, and had every thing in a state calculated to make her ride at her moorings as easily as possible. At 2 P. M. the vessel pitched very hard, and one of the mooring-hawsers having got foul of the cathead or timber, the ship came with such a jerk, from the run of the sea, as was sufficient to carry it away. But the Tender still kept her station, in company with the sloop Smeaton, and the praam-boats Hedderwick and Fernie.

[Sidenote: Tuesday 30th.]

[Sidenote: Apparatus on the Rock viewed from a boat.]

To-day the wind shifted from N.E. to west, but there was still too heavy a sea for landing on the Rock. The writer being on board, looked often and anxiously for the safety of the crane and the unfinished course of the building. At low-water, he accompanied the landing-master in a boat, and went round the Rock, when he had the satisfaction to find that every thing had the appearance of being in good order.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 31st.]

[Sidenote: 13 stones laid. Landing rendered difficult from snow showers.]

The landing-master’s bell, often no very favourite sound, rung at 6 this morning; but on this occasion, it is believed, it was gladly received by all on board, as the welcome signal of the return of better weather. At a quarter past 7, the artificers landed, and continued at work four hours and a half. At 7 P. M. they landed again, and at 10 all hands, 36 in number, returned to the Tender. The masons laid 13 stones to-day, which the seamen had landed, together with other building materials. During these twenty-four hours the wind was from the south, blowing fresh breezes, accompanied with showers of snow. In the morning, the snow showers were so thick, that it was with difficulty the landing-master, who always steered the leading-boat, could make his way to the Rock through the drift. But at the Bell Rock, neither snow, nor rain, nor fog, nor wind, retarded the progress of the work, if unaccompanied by a heavy swell or breach of the sea.

[Sidenote: 1809, June.]

[Sidenote: Thursday, 1st.]

[Sidenote: State of the weather. Zeal of the Writer’s assistants.]