Chapter X: Letter II

_The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port
to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception on landing
there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom
that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on
Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a
Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been
considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans had ever before
been permitted to enter the Gates on Horseback._

TO THE SAME.

Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792.

_The emperor's[95] letter ordering the port of Santa Cruz to be
opened to the Dutch_, having reached Mogodor, and having received
my instructions from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general to
this empire, to act as agent for him at that port, until my
appointment be ratified and confirmed by the States General, of
which he informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded hither in the
Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, master; and after being becalmed off
(Affernie) Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning after my
departure from Mogodor. I sent my horses by land; and on our
59 approach to the shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain
on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after we came to anchor in the
road, the boats came off, and the battery, which is situated about
half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, saluted me with
8 guns, (the Muhamedans always saluting with an even number.) This
compliment being unexpected, we were about half an hour preparing
to return it, when we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain
of the port received me with great courtesy, and was ordered by the
bashaw El Hayanie, governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most
unqualified attention to my wishes. I landed amidst an immense
concourse of people, assembled on the beach to witness the
re-establishment of their port, most of whom were without shoes,
and very ill clad.

[Footnote 95: See specimens of Arabic epistolary
correspondence, Appendix, Letter 9th.]

The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation were manifested
by the people when I landed; a merchant was come to establish, once
more, that commerce by which the fathers of the present generation
had prospered; and their sons appeared to know full well the
advantages that again awaited their industry, which for 30 years
had not been exercised. I mounted my horse on the beach, amidst the
general acclamations of the people, and ascended the mountain, on
the summit of which is the town. On my arrival at the gate, I was
courteously received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, informed
60 me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was ever considered holy ground,
and that Christians, during its former establishment, always
descended and entered the town on foot, intimating at the same time
that it was expected I should do the same. I had been before
cautioned by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, not to
expostulate at this request, as it would certainly be required of
me to conform to ancient usages. But I knew too well the
disposition of the people, and the great desire that pervaded all
ranks to have the port established; I therefore turned my horse,
and told the bashaw's sons, that I was come, with the blessing of
God, to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor rich, and to
improve the condition and multiply the conveniences of the opulent;
that I came to establish commerce for _their_ advantage, not for
mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I returned to Mogodor
or remained with them. The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and
entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till they should report
to the bashaw my words and observations. I consented, and soon
after they returned with their father's earnest request that I
should enter a-horseback: old customs, said the venerable old
bashaw when, immediately afterwards, I met him in the street; old
customs are abolished, enter and go out of this town a-horseback or
a-foot, we desire the prosperity of this port, and that its
commerce may flourish; _All the people of Suse hail you as their
61 deliverer, God has sent you to us to turn the desert into_ (jinen
afia) _a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, and God be with
you._

I was conducted to the best house in the town, a house which
belonged to our predecessor, Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that
if any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting my entrance
through the sanctuary or holy ground, it might have caused an
immediate insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all ranks of
people for the new establishment of this eligible port of Suse.

The privilege thus established, of riding in and out of the town, I
continued; and I procured it immediately afterwards for all
Christians! even masters of ships and common sailors.
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