Chapter XXXI: Introduction (1)

In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments the naked truth
is stated, without the embellishments of language, or the labour of
rhetoric, which the wiser part of mankind have always approved of
as the most instructive way of writing; and all such as are
acquainted with books will readily agree with me, that many authors
stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, from an affectation of
elegance of style.

The following facts, therefore, will form the materials for a
history, rather than a history itself.

The study of the _language and customs of the Arabs is the best
comment upon the Old Testament_. The language of the modern Jews is
little to be regarded; their dispersion into various nations,
277 having no fixed habitation, being _wholly_ addicted to their own
interest, their conformation to the respective customs of the
various nations through which they are dispersed; have caused them,
in a great measure, to forget their ancient customs and original
language, except what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise
of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have continued in the constant
possession of their country many centuries, and are so tenacious of
their customs and habits, that they are, at this day, the same men
they were three thousand years ago. Accordingly, many of their
customs, at this day, remind us of what happened among their
ancestors in the days of Abraham.

_Trade with Sudan_.

1795, June 14th. Two (_Akkabas_) accumulated caravans of Gum Sudan,
called in England "Turkey[182] Gum Arabic," have reached the Arab
encampment of Dikna, not far from the northern confines of the
Sahara; and will be at Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a
fortnight.

[Footnote 182: This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria,
in Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or
Constantinople, and from thence imported into England.]

_Wrecked Ships_.

278 A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound to Lima, has been
wrecked near Cape Noon; the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens,
superfine cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, to be
worth half a million of dollars.

_Wrecked Ships on the Coast_.

Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. at Mogodor, to
their correspondents in London. January, 1801.

The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, wrecked on the
coast of Suse, have been recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo,
the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just received them safe by
a boat. If this vessel had been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall,
it is more than probable that the cargo would have been plundered.
We have presented the governor with twenty dollars, for his
extraordinary energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery of
the whole of this property.

The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, was wrecked near
Cape Noon, in 1790; the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to my
house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards of two years in captivity
in the Desert: and I sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on
mules, where, after remaining about two months, the Bull-dog sloop
of war came down from Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to
her by the imperial order.
279
_Wrecked Sailors_.

English seamen that are so unfortunate as to be wrecked on the
coast of Sahara, are generally better treated than the French,
Italian, or Spanish, because there is a greater probability of a
ransom; and because it is well known that the English admit no
slaves in their own country.

_Timbuctoo Coffee_.

Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of Timbuctoo, _south of
the Nile Elabeed_. I sent a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly
Consul for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, which is the
general character of this grain before it is improved by
cultivation.

_Sand Baths_.

The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to the chin, as a remedy
for several disorders, particularly syphilis.

_Civil War common in West Barbary_.

In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly in the mountainous
districts, intestine wars frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl,
village against village, house against house, family against
280 family. In these lamentable wars, which so continually disturb the
peace of society, retaliation is considered an incumbent duty on
every individual who may have lost a relation, so that the embers
of hostility are thus incessantly fanned; and this lamentable
revenge pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction of every
humane and philanthropic propensity, converting the human race to a
degradation below the beasts of the field.

_Policy of the Servants of the Emperor_.

The Bashaws, and others holding responsible situations in the
empire, are continually purchasing a good name and good report at
court, by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of the Emperor to
report favourably of them, whenever opportunity may offer.
Incredible sums are sometimes expended in this way.

_El_[183] _Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis_.

The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of the reigning Emperor,
Muley Soliman, purchased, on his return from the pilgrimage to
281 Mecca, a domain in (Santariah[184]) the Oasis of Ammon or Siwah, as
a retreat; and being appointed by his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy
of the province of Suse[185], he was enabled to give succour to the
Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, on their pilgrimage to
Mecca, and to entertain them with the comforts of hospitality on
their passage through the Desert. This was the more agreeable to
these Shelluhs, because, after passing a long journey of some
thousands of miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, not
only a territory yielding every comfort and necessary of life, but
a country wherein their own prince had authority, and wherein their
own native language is spoken and understood.

[Footnote 183: In the Lybian Desert there are three _Wahs_ (or
_Oasises_, as we call them): the greater, called _El Wah El
Kabeer_; the lesser, called _El Wah Segrer_; and the Oasis of
Ammon, called _El Wah El Grarbie_, i. e. the Wah of the West.]

[Footnote 184: The Wah of the West is also called by the
Mograbines _Santariah_.]

[Footnote 185: See the map of West Barbary.]

When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi Muhamed died[186], the
prince Abdsalam engaged Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor
of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain for him; which
he accordingly did. It is more than probable that the Shelluhs of
Siwah are an _emigration_ from Suse.

[Footnote 186: About twenty-eight years since.]

_Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco_.

282 An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to the court of Marocco,
during the reign of Seedi Muhamed, father of the present emperor,
Soliman. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court was at that time
held,) the (_Mule M'shoer_) Master of the Audience, who was the
(_Sherreef_) Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador and
informed him, that it was customary for all persons coming into the
imperial presence to take off their shoes, and to prostrate
themselves. To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, alleging
that he was received by the king his master with his shoes on; and
that he presumed the Emperor, on a proper representation being made
to him, would not exact from him greater obedience than he paid to
his own sovereign. The master of the audience reported the
interpretation of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial master.
The emperor paused, and (insinuating that the ambassador was
somewhat presumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par with a
Muselman emperor) commanded the prince to dismiss the ambassador
for that time, till the following day. In the interim, the Emperor
urged the master of the audience to make diligent inquiry how the
Christians conducted themselves in the act of prayer before the
Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered their feet, and
prostrated themselves, as Muhamedans did. The morning following,
the master of audience procured the necessary information
respecting this point, and acquainted the Emperor that the English
283 Christians, like the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered
their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of Nazareth. "Go,
then," replied the emperor, "and let the ambassador be presented to
me without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; for I
cannot require more obeisance from a foreigner, than he himself
pays to Almighty God."

_Massacre of the Jews_, _and Attack on Algiers_.

In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked by the Arabs of the
mountains, and by the inhabitants of the plains, the Jews of the
city were massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor of
Marocco that a favourable opportunity now offered to subdue
Algiers, and add it to the empire: but the Emperor replied, "That
it was wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces that
his father had left him, than to endeavour by _uncertain and
expensive_ warfare to extend his dominions, by invading a
neighbouring nation."

_Treaties with Muhamedan Princes_.

Treaties of peace and commerce between the Muselmen princes and
Christian powers, are regarded by the former no longer than it is
284 expedient to their convenience. Muselmen respect treaties no longer
than it is their apparent interest so to do. When an ambassador
once expostulated with his imperial majesty for having infringed on
a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco replied--"Dost thou think I
am a Christian, that I should be a _slave_ to my word?"

_Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh_.

This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains west and south-west of
Mequinas. They are a fine race of men, well-grown, and good
figures; they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy
resembles the ancient Roman. The laws of hospitality, however, are
disregarded among them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn
with them, whenever they have an opportunity.

_The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation_.

The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded from Mequinas to Marocco,
with an army of thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against
the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of the province of
Abda, acting conjointly with the bashaw of the province of
Duquella, who had collected an army of eighty thousand men, of
285 which fifty thousand were horse. The Emperor, on his arrival at
Marocco, was exasperated against the kabyls of the south; and was
informed that the merchants of Mogodor had supplied his rebel
subject, Abdrahaman, with ammunition. Enraged at this report, which
the exasperated state of his mind prompted him to believe, he
issued an order to the Governor of Mogodor, implicating the greater
part of the European merchants of that port of high treason, and
ordered their decapitation. This order was brought by one Fenishe,
a relation of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some years before,
ambassador from Marocco to the court of St. James's. The Governor,
however, suspecting that the order had been issued in a moment of
irritation, delayed its execution, in the hope that it might be
countermanded; or, in hope that the result of a battle would render
it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon afterwards, news
arrived at Mogodor that the two armies had met, had fought, and the
Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who had more than double
his force, but was himself dangerously wounded. This induced the
governor still further to delay the execution; having now
ascertained that the order was obtained by a stratagem of malicious
and ill-disposed people. The next day news came that the Emperor
suffered extremely from a ball in the upper part of the thigh,
286 which the surgeons could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of
frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (_kumaya_) dagger, cut open
the wound to the ball, and expired soon after. Thus were the
merchants of Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely death.

_The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred_.

When the united armies of Abda and Duquella were vanquished and
dispersed by the Imperial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco,
the report became general that the Emperor was wounded. It is
asserted that several men in ambush had orders to wait their
opportunity to fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; and
when the Emperor did approach the bush wherein these men lay
concealed, they all fired. It appears, however, that only one shot
had effect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, instead of being
discouraged, was reanimated to the combat, and entered into the
midst of it; a soldier by his side observed to him, that he was
wounded, and whilst expressing his hope that it was not dangerous,
the Emperor, with one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even
after the death of this redoubted warrior, the people trembled,
doubting the truth of his decease. Abdrahaman went personally to
Marocco and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact,
suspecting that the report of his death might be a stratagem; but
287 having ascertained it, he returned to Saffy, and his brother Muley
Esslemmah was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. Doubts of the
Emperor's death still pervaded the minds of men: it was reported
that he had been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in Suse. At
length a person somewhat resembling him in person, appeared between
Wedinoon and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic took; and men
from all parts of the country, who had known the Emperor, hastened
to Wedinoon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too curious were
shot by order of this pretender, to prevent the possibility of
their returning to give notice of the imposture. The immense number
of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid was incalculable; his
party increased and multiplied, and he soon had thousands of
followers who supported his cause. The infatuation of the vulgar
and the bulk of the community was astounding; for the renowned
Muley Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the first horseman
in his empire, and the most accomplished gentleman: whereas
Buhellesa[187], for so he was called in derision, was so bad a
horseman that he generally rode a mule.

[Footnote 187: So called from his generally riding a mule, with
a large stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering
the whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat.
This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called _Hellesa_;
and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called _Bû Hellesa_;
that is the father of a _Hellesa_.]
288
This man was reported to be an adept in the occult sciences; and it
was both reported and credited, that the occult art enabled him to
multiply corn and provision for the army to any quantity he might
want. I was established at Santa Cruz, which was three days'
horse-travelling from Buhellesa's standard; the (_Shereef,_) Prince
Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then resident there, and Viceroy
of Suse. It was the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this
pretender; for his army and followers exceeded now thirty thousand
men, the Prince sent to Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and
sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was about thirty miles
south of Santa Cruz. Delemy and the Prince were sworn friends: the
latter proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, and so prevent
the empire from being usurped. Neither Delemy nor the Prince had
funds to raise an army; so that neither of them knew what steps to
take. _Delemy, however, with the true spirit of a Bedouin Arab,
supported his friend in his adversity,_ and promised to exert
himself to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite
Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the various kabyls of Suse, he
made an energetic harangue to them; and discussed with them the
expediency of their uniting together, to repel the impostor. The
sheiks were all loyal, and well affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose
289 government of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to the
hospitalities with which the Prince entertained the people of Suse
at his domain, the _Wah el Grabie_, or the Oasis of Ammon, called
_Santariah_, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much in their favour
and esteem, that they all unanimously (_passed l'âad_[188]) joined
hands, and determined, each individually, to raise his respective
kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. In a short time they
raised an army among themselves of ten thousand horse, and
determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he should begin to move
forwards, and before he should reach Terodant, in his way to
Marocco; for there he had a strong party, which would augment his
forces. The hero Delemy, who was as valiant a soldier as Muley
Yezzid himself, and as expert and dextrous in the management of the
horse, determined therefore, with less than half the force of his
antagonist, to attack him, before he should be able to gather more
strength. The army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards
Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, with an army of
290 22,000 men, mostly horse, having been apprised of Delemy's
preparations and movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran
towards Shtuka, and that he intended to attack Delemy's castle. On
hearing this, the army halted for an hour, and returned towards
Shtuka again. In the morning they came up with Buhellesa, who was
encamped about four hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of
Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of valour, was so
rapid, that Buhellesa was taken by surprise. The battle lasted
seven hours; during which Delemy's brother was wounded and
unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's troops: but being unknown,
and in a similar dress with the rest, he recovered himself by the
assistance of some friends, sent to him by his brother the khalif,
and was enabled to rejoin his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard
pressed, that he made his retreat into a house: on being attacked
there, his pistol missed fire, and he was overcome. They
immediately cut off his head and his arms, when his army dispersed,
most of them making the best of their way to Wedinoon. That same
night, the man of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was
dispatched with his head and feet to Muley Abd Salam, at Santa
Cruz.

[Footnote 188: The _L'aad_ of the Arabs is a joining of hands,
without Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties
coming in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each
other. This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to
witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and
defensive; a swearing to stand by each other till death; an
obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a
man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected from
society!]

The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so strong a force, had
urged me to ship all the property I could collect; and I was on the
291 beach early the following morning, directing the shipment of my
property; when taking a ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with a
basket before him, and a foot sticking out of it. "_Salam u alik_,"
I exclaimed, "And what have you got there?"--"_Alik Salam_," said
the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head and feet here: I killed him
myself; and the khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the Prince.
Dost thou think the Prince will reward me?"--"Certainly," said I,
"for such an essential service." The Prince gave the Arab one
hundred duckets[189]; the guns were fired; and the head and feet
were hung over an embrasure of the round battery, facing the south.
Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa.

A short time after this, I was on a visit to Delemy, and he
accompanied me to the field of battle; which was an undulating
plain, not unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to which
Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike the hotel de la Belle
Alliance on the plains of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof.

[Footnote 189: Worth 5_s._ each, but equal to 100_l_., or more,
in that country.]

_Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation._

A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had been a servant in the house
292 of Mr. Hutchison, British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it
happened to be twenty years since a relation of his, in Suse, had
been killed, to whom he was the next of kin but one: but the next
of kin dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; no
opportunity, however, having occurred, he determined to go to Suse
to fulfil this his calling. Now above twenty years had elapsed
since the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, the
Consul's servant. This man, foregoing the eligibility of his place,
apprised the Consul of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison,
who esteemed him not a little for his long and faithful services,
was astonished to hear of his determination to depart; and,
apprehending that he might want an increase of pay, he offered to
increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an imperious duty
devolved on him to revenge the blood of his ancestor. Accordingly
he received his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A few
months afterwards he found an opportunity of killing his enemy,
which being done, it was expected that this Shelluh would now
return to Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a parity of
reasoning, it devolved to the next of kin of the man recently
killed to seek revenge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem,
to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. This duty of
revenging death, is rigidly pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one
murder often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each revenging
his relation or next of kin.
293
_Travelling in Barbary._

It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in this country, to
ascertain from the natives the distance of any (_douar_) encampment
of Arabs: the general answer to such a question is (_wahud saa_),
"an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, being used for a
distance from two to twelve miles, or more; therefore, as these
people have no definite notions of time or distance, the only way
of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the rate at which the
caravan goes, which is a regular pace, and consulting your watch;
by this means, the distance of any journey, however long, may be
accurately ascertained.

_Anecdote displaying the African Character, and showing them to be
now what they were anciently, under Jugurtha._

A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having killed a man; and after
remaining there some time, it was expected that the Emperor's order
would come to have him shot, or to have his right hand cut off,
with which it was presumed he killed his enemy. A friend of the
prisoner, willing to liberate him, that he might escape the
punishment that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted with
the prison to procure his enlargement; accordingly he promised him
294 a sum of money, if he would effect this purpose. It was agreed that
the money should be paid. The liberator was then to prove to the
man advancing the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. The
night in which his liberation was to be attempted was fixed on;
ropes were ready to enable the prisoner to escape over the
prison-wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the man who had
been murdered, sought the blood of the prisoner, and was persuaded
by the man that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, that the
latter was not in prison, that he had made his escape, but that the
former would undertake to put him in his power, so as to enable him
to accomplish his revenge. This was agreed to, and accordingly a
sum of money was paid as a remuneration for the service. All
matters were arranged, and the person who paid the money was
desired to be on the rock, near the prison, outside of the town
wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and there he would find his
enemy. The person who made the first engagement was directed to be
at the same spot at three o'clock. In the mean time the liberation
was effected at two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that his
friend would meet him under the rock at three o'clock, to conduct
him to a place secure from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the
next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had killed came and
295 plunged a dagger into his heart; afterwards came the other man, and
saw the body of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating
with the liberator, the latter replied, "I have executed my
engagement to liberate your friend; I am entitled to my reward:
what has happened to him since his liberation is no concern of
mine; see you to that. But I should inform you, that soon after his
liberation, I saw a man approach, and fearing that I was
discovered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a short time I
returned and found your friend weltering in his blood. When I
approached him, he had just time before he expired to name to me
his murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the man he had
himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs consider it a duty incumbent
on them, each, individually to revenge the blood of their family;
that they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly he can be
found. Such is their invariable attention to this principle of
revenging blood for blood, that I have known instances of men who
have relinquished eligible appointments, to go into distant
countries, several years after a murder has been committed, to
revenge the death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening
death, the next of kin of the murdered person.

The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation is such, that one
death often produces twenty murders, and afterwards involves whole
kabyls in intestine wars.
296
It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they use in these horrid
transactions, the more merit is ascribed to the agent; who is
praised in proportion to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity,
as was the case with the liberator above mentioned.

_Every Nation is required to use its own Costume._

The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a predilection for the
European costume, in preference to their own, the former being
respected, the latter not: moreover the character of a _merchant_
is highly respected by the Moors, and the European dress is a kind
of passport to a man as such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the
place of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, apparently an
European ambassador, ordered the master of the audience to go and
see who he was, and what nation he represented; but it being
discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, his scarlet and gold dress
was torn from him, and a _burnose_, (a large black cloak, the
costume of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, when he
was buffetted and kicked out of the place of audience. The Emperor
was exasperated at this circumstance, which he considered a vain
deception: he ordered his secretary to write to all the ports in
his dominions, to desire that Jews should wear the _burnose_, that
297 Christians only should wear the European costume, and Moors and
Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual might be known by their
respective dress. On this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at
Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed to, from wearing
the Jewish costume, that he actually paid several thousand dollars
to obtain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, which, in
consequence of his being an opulent man, and a foreign merchant,
was granted to him.

The name of this gentleman would here be mentioned to gratify the
curious; but as it might give umbrage to his family, and as the
intention here is only to describe the character and manners of the
country, there is, I conceive no necessity for stating
personalities.

_Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name._

This extraordinary character visited Marocco about the year 1805 or
1806. He pretended to be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic
_Hellebee_, and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, which
signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." Europeans, as well as himself,
since his return to Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey,
of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman possessed abilities
of no ordinary degree, he was supplied with money in abundance by
298 the Spanish government. He had not been long at Mogodor, when his
munificence began to excite the suspicion of the governor, as well
as the admiration and applause of the populace. Adopting the
costume of the country, he professed himself to be a Muselman; and
as a pretext for not speaking the[190] Arabic language, he
pretended that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his nativity,
to England when very young, and had forgotten it. He had, as he
declared, considerable property in the Bank of England. Being
desirous of collecting all the information possible respecting the
country, he procured two young Spanish renegado musicians, who
played on the guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with which he
affected to be highly delighted, these musicians, however, served
his purpose in another way; for, being apprehensive of creating
suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on these renegadoes to
procure the information he desired, by giving them from time to
time several questions to which they procured direct answers, as
reported by the natives.

[Footnote 190: He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I
believe spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country
and proceeded to Mekka.]

One day he gave a _fête champêtre_ at (_L'arsa Sultan_), the[191]
299 Sultan's garden, situated near a very picturesque rivulet, and
contiguous to springs of excellent water, which being collected in
a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, which extended the
length of the garden, to immerge or irrigate the various beds of
flowers and plants. On his return home, as he was crossing the
river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh shot a large fish as it
was passing the shallows, Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired
the dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, was
nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and desired him to take the fish to
his house at Mogodor, which he accordingly did, and received from
Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. This Shelluh was a keen
sportsman, and seldom or never missed his shot: he generally
accompanied me in my shooting excursions, and he told me this
circumstance himself, adding, that Ali Bey was such a liberal man,
that, where any other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful.
It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased his popularity.

[Footnote 191: This garden is in the province of Haha, about
five miles S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European
Commerce, to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi
Muhamed ben Abdallah.]

The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed ben Abdsaddock now began to
suspect, not only the faith of this _soi disant_ Muhamedan, but
that he had some design unavowed; and desirous of ascertaining to
what nation of Christendom he belonged, the governor engaged
Monsieur Depras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, who
understood several languages, to ascertain if he was a Frenchman,
300 and if not, who and what he was. The governor, in order to enable
M. Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them both to tea; this
introduction being effected the next day, Depras called on Ali Bey,
and conversed with him during an hour in the French language, which
he spoke so well, that the former thought there was no doubt of his
being a Frenchman. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was
announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey changed his discourse
to Spanish, which he also spoke so correctly, that Depras now
altered his opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took his
leave. He then reported to the governor what he had seen and heard,
that he spoke French and Spanish so fluently, that he really did
not know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard.

Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous and costly style, and
afterwards resolved to visit Marocco. On his journey thither, he
was particularly inquisitive respecting the population, produce,
names and residencies of the (sheiks) chiefs of Haha and Shedma,
through which provinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he
still continued his magnificent establishment and sumptuous mode of
living; distributing money to the people bountifully, on the most
trifling occasions, which mode of conduct procured him universal
popularity among the lower orders. This soon excited the suspicions
301 of Alkaid Bushta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously informed
him, that such liberality was fit only for a Christian country, and
that he was mistaken if he flattered himself that it would be
tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him to adopt a different
and a more parsimonious system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging,
that his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial Majesty, which
was highly indecorous; but afterwards finding little attention was
paid to his injunction, he published a decree throughout the city,
that any one that should be found asking for, or receiving money
from Ali Bey, should have a very severe bastinado! After residing
some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to visit the Atlas
mountains, which appear a few miles east of Marocco, but which are,
in fact, a whole day's journey; their immense size and height
making them to appear so much nearer than they really are. Ali Bey
apprehending the hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an
imperial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed it, and would
not, he said, permit him, he being governor of Marocco, without
having himself directly from the Emperor a permission to that
purpose. He then represented to the Emperor the impolicy of
allowing him to go and examine that country; and the imperial order
was immediately countermanded.

People now began to imagine that he was an agent of Bonaparte; and
their suspicion that he was a Christian spread far and near. It was
302 discovered also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences unknown
to Muselmen, whose shoes are made tight over the instep, and loose
over the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and at liberty,
they never have corns.

Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy and suavity of
the manners of Ali Bey had such influence on the imperial mind,
that Muley Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside in,
wherein there was a (_kôba_) pavilion. Ali Bey, finding his
influence considerable, erected with architectural taste several
edifices, suited, as he thought, to the imperial _gusto_, in which
he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, when he returned
the next year to Marocco, resided almost exclusively in one of the
pavilions which he had erected.

The splendour of the imperial favour did not however continue long;
for Ali Bey began now to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and
it was bruited that his renegadoes had acted treacherously towards
him.

Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly gratifying to the
Emperor. He could not altogether withdraw from him his attention.
The Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, and become an
useful member of society; but Ali objected, alleging various
motives for refusing. He was however at length prevailed on to
comply with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor gave him a
303 young girl to marry. It was anticipated that his new wife was a
political one, and would betray him to be an uncircumcised dog. The
wife, however, became extremely attached to him, and no information
could be procured from her to favour the plot that had been laid
for him. Various suspicions having increased respecting him, the
Emperor finally resolved that he should quit his territory; and an
order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves should be
escorted to the port of L'Araich, and there embark for Europe. When
the military guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, the
boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to embark, when, not
suspecting any stratagem, the boatmen pushed off, leaving his
disconsolate wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. The
lady appeared deeply affected with this sudden and unexpected
separation; and jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled
hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with loud shrieks, which
pierced the air, demonstrated to him how sorely she lamented his
premature departure, and violent separation. His principal slave
was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, to Seed Abdel'mjeed
Buhellel, a merchant of Fas, who was lately in London, and the
money was given to his wife.

During his residence at Fas, he predicted an eclipse, and, having
foretold to the people of that city, that it would happen at such a
304 time, they waited for the event with considerable curiosity. Now
his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad with demonstrations of
amazement; the eclipse happened precisely at the time he had
predicted, which established his fame as an (_alem min alem_), a
man wiser than the wise.

During the latter part of his residence in West Barbary, a report
prevailed that Bonaparte was preparing an immense army to invade
and subjugate the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected to be his
secret agent, but some persons were even ridiculous enough to
declare that he was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly
he was denominated _Parte_, for they would not add _Bona_, as that
word signifies good, in the _lingua franca_ of Barbary, and
Bonaparte, they said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so they
called him Parte. Last year I met in London the Moor who had
purchased Ali Bey's slave, and he told me that his son by the
before-mentioned wife lives at Fas; that he is a very amiable and
intelligent youth, about fifteen or sixteen years of age; and that
he is very poor, and would have starved, but for the charity and
protection of the highly respected fakeer of the city of Fas, Muley
Dris, under whose roof he resides, and is indebted to him for
protection and patronage. This man would be an acquisition to the
African Association, and means might be adopted to engage him in
305 their service to explore Sudan.

_The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas_.

The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah levied a powerful army, and
took the field against Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of
Marocco. The people of Diminet, and the territory of Berebbers,
east of that country, had also levied a strong force to defend
themselves. The Diminets were taken by surprise; for they had not
had intimation of an attack from Marocco. The Emperor himself, with
a few attendants disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced a few
miles ahead of the army. A party of mountaineers had received
orders from their sheik, (when the latter was informed that the
Emperor's army was coming against them,) to seek the Emperor, and
endeavour to kill him. They mistook the Emperor and his party for
Berebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, and had in
the early part of his life lived among them. "Where is the
Emperor's guard?" the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search
of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in our inaccessible
mountains; but we will be beforehand with him, and dispatch him
before he reaches us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his
guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; "for, about an hour
behind us, we passed a few men on horseback, among whom was the
Emperor; but the army is a long way behind: if you make speed, you
will soon pass him, and it will be an easy matter for you to put
306 the whole party to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether."
The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated from a party
whom they mistook for brethren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off
at speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time found themselves
surrounded by the Emperor's army, who were scattered about in
ambush. These Berebbers were all secured, and were threatened with
torture if they would not discover where the army of their brethren
was, and what was their plan. The party discovered the plan and the
place of their encampment, which was not far off in recesses of the
mountain, and received a promise of remuneration if found correct.
By this discovery, the imperial army was enabled to surprise the
rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses burned. Thus
were they prevented from _harassing_ the Emperor's army, which is
their ordinary mode of warfare. To subjugate these people would be
impossible: it has often been attempted, but never succeeded. The
only lien the Emperor can get of them is, by having at court about
his person their sheik, whom he then makes answerable for the
obedience of the kabyl.

_Moral Justice_.

The imperial army being encamped in Temsena, on the confines of
307 Tedla, (see the map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend of the
Emperor came into his _keyma_[192] at night, and took liberties
with his wife. The Arab suspected that he was (_shereef_) a prince,
and therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred a complaint
to the Emperor. The Emperor was vexed to hear of such a gross
breach of hospitality, and asked what time he made his visits? "At
one hour after midnight," the Arab replied. Then, said the Emperor,
"when he comes, do you let me know by giving the watch-word to this
man, and he will then know what to do; and depend thou on my seeing
justice done to thee for the aggression." The marauder came; the
Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial tent, and gave the word;
the guard apprised the emperor, as he was directed, who personally
repaired to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced of the fact,
ran the man through with his lance; this was done without a light.
The body was brought before the tent, and it was discovered to be
an officer of the imperial guard. The Emperor, on seeing that it
was not a shereef (a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer
for a considerable time. The courtiers who were all assembled by
this time to witness this extraordinary occurrence, wondered what
could induce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; which his
majesty observing, told them, "that he went alone to the tent,
308 thinking that nobody but a shereef would have dared to commit such
a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; therefore he killed
him without having a light, lest, on discovering him to be a
prince, personal affection might give way to justice; but that when
he discovered that it was not a relation, he returned thanks to God
Almighty, that, in his determination to have justice administered,
he had not killed his own son!"

[Footnote 192: _Keyma_ is the name for an Arab's tent; they are
made of goats' hair, and are black.]

_Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas_.

March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds with a powerful army
against the warlike province of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs'
retreat. The imperial army takes some of the women who are renowned
for personal charms. The army can get no food; and, being in danger
of starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise submission, in
hopes of having the women restored; but the Emperor's officers
violate them. The Arabs swear vengeance (_alia l'imin_[193]) by
their right hand. The emperor attacks them again, is repulsed, and
returns to Fas.

[Footnote 193: _Alia l'imin_, swearing by the right hand, is a
sacred oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its
obligation, which is peremptory.]

_Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans_.

One of the Emperor's ministers, when an English fleet was cruising
309 off Salee, and just after some impost had been levied on the
merchandise already purchased and warehoused by the Christian
merchants, suggested the impolicy at that moment, of harsh measures
against Europeans: the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked what harm
he could suffer from the fleets of Europeans? "They could destroy
your Imperial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. "Then I would
build them again for one-half what it would cost them to destroy
them. But if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by sending
out my cruisers to take their trading ships, which would so
increase the premiums of insurance (for the (_kaffers_) infidels
insure all things on earth, trusting nothing to God[194]), that
they would be glad to sue for peace again."

[Footnote 194: The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their
mistrust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships,
merchandise, &c.]

_Political Deception_.

When an embassy is going to the Emperor, the alkaid of the escort
endeavours to make the present, which necessarily accompanies every
embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, that the Arabs of
the kabyls through which they pass, may be dazzled and astounded
with the great appearance of the presents, which the alkaid
proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or treasure. The Arabs
accordingly observed, on Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents,
that the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in Egypt, and were
masters of the ocean and seas, yet were tributary to the Sultan.
This idea is industriously propagated by the officers of the
Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, "that these
Christians give such large presents with a free-will? Certainly
not! They are compelled to do so. The (_Romee_) Europeans are too
fond of money to give it away in such loads,--even the English,
thou seest, are tributary to the Seed." [195]

[Footnote 195: A higher title among the _true Arabs_ than
Emperor: it implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People,
Protector, and Brother.]

_Etiquette of the Court of Marocco_.

The European commerce of Mogodor went to pay their respects to the
Emperor Seedi Muhamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as is
customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El Mamune, was master of the
audience, and ordered the commerce to advance into the imperial
presence; and standing barefooted, as is the custom before the
Emperor, he requested the merchants to take off their shoes, as
_he_ had done; but they expostulated, and said it was not their
custom. The Prince, however, stopped them, and would not allow them
to approach the imperial presence without first submitting to this
ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing the impediment, and knowing the
311 cause, but willing at the same time to initiate the young prince in
the custom of foreign countries, called his son to him, and said,
"What do muselmen do, when they enter the _Jamaa_?"[196] "Revere
the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied the prince.--"And
what do the Christians, when they enter their church?"--"They take
off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (_Allah e berk Amer
Seedi_,[197]) "God bless your Majesty's life."--"Then, what would
you more of these my merchants, than that they pay me, even the
same respect that they pay when they pray to _Allah_. Let them
approach uncovered, with their shoes on, which they never take off,
but to go to bed to rest".

[Footnote 196: An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the
congregation of prayer, or mosque.]

[Footnote 197: A term invariably used at court, in addressing
the Emperor.]

* * * * *

The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, in Lower Suse, is
considered as an independent province, and it pays no tribute. They
have a great dislike to _kadis_[198], _talbs_, and attornies,
alleging that they only increase disputes between man and man,
which is not at all necessary; all disputes are, therefore, decided
by the sheik, who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according
312 to the simplest manner. The following decree of their sheik is on
record:--

"Four men conjointly bought a mule, which for elucidation, we will
call A, B, C, and D: each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind
one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it was agreed to cure
it by (_el keeh_) burning it with a hot iron, (a common remedy in
this country.) This done, the mule was turned out, and went into a
field of barley. Some spark was attached to the hoof, and set fire
to the corn, which was consumed. The proprietors of the barley
applied to the sheik for justice; and A, B, C, and D, the owners of
the mule, were summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the leg which
caused the barley to be burnt, belonged to D, ordered him to pay
the value of the barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he had
no right to pay; for, if it had not been for A, B, and C's portions
of the mule, the barley would have remained. "How so?" replied the
sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which belongs to me cannot
touch the ground; but it was brought to the corn-field by the legs
of A, B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the ignition of
the barley. The sheik reversed his decree, and ordered A, B, and C
to pay the damage, and D got off without expense.

[Footnote 198: _Kadis_, i.e. judges. _Talbs_, i.e. record
writers. _Kadi_ is generally spelt by the Europeans of the
south _Cadi_, because they have no K in their alphabet: the
Arabs have no C; the letter is _Kaf_ or K, not C.]

313
_Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz. of Idaultit_
(_in Lower Suse_.)

The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a courageous and
powerful people, strict to their honour and word, unlike their
neighbours of Elala. They make verbal contracts between themselves,
and never go to law, or record their contracts or agreements,
trusting implicitly to each other's faith and honour. If a man goes
to this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive it while
there, but must first leave the country, and trust to the integrity
of the Idaultitee, who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot
bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge any sultan,
but have a divan of their own, called _Eljma_, who settle all
disputes between man and man. These people cultivate the plains,
when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there is, they retire to
the fastnesses in their mountains, and defy the arm of power;
satisfying themselves with the produce of the mountains.

_Connubial Customs_.

The (_shereef_) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of the present Emperor
Soliman, was married to the daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben
Nassar, who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented the Emperor
for some time from proceeding to the south. This couple was married
314 in 1803. The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 she was
divorced, and sent by the Emperor to Mogodor, with orders to a
sheik of Shedma to marry her, it being considered a degradation for
a prince to be united to the daughter of a rebellious subject. This
happened in January, 1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley
Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, and who was elder
brother to the Emperor Soliman, has been recently sent by the
Emperor to Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the city of
Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These marriages are promoted by
the royal decree, to prevent the females from contaminating the
royal blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, without
a new husband.

_Political Duplicity_.

A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a state prisoner, his
friend, who was confined in the island of Mogodor (the state prison
of the empire, except for princes, who are sent to Tafilelt), the
Emperor assured him he would release him; and urged the fakeer to
proceed to Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. The
fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival at Mogodor, he learned
that the Emperor was not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor
showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering him to retain the
prisoner in safe keeping, and not attend to what the fakeer should
say. This system of breaking engagements and promises, is too often
315 denominated policy. "Dost thou think I am a Christian," said an
emperor to a prince who was expostulating with him for not
fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I am a Christian, to
be a slave to my word?"

Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter from the Emperor,
directed to the (_alkaid_) governor of Rabat, ordering him to show
Senor P. every attention, and to assist him if he should be
desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. Senor P. left the court
at Mequinas, well satisfied with his letter; but a few days after
his arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark and quit the
country in twenty-four hours, by the Emperor's order, which he
showed to Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was obliged to embark
immediately.

_Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco_.