Chapter XVII: Letter IX

_Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey
of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No one enters the
imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode of travelling.--The
Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the
Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of
Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at
Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, east
and south of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of
eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of
the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan_.

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.

Mogodor, 1788.

The emperor having departed from Mequinas where he passed the
winter, to Marocco, his summer residence, it becomes an incumbent
duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects to him. All the
bashaws of provinces, south of the river Morbeya, which divides the
northern part of his dominions from the southern, as well as all
the alkaids or governors of towns and districts under the authority
of the bashaws of the provinces, are expected to show their
loyalty, by obtaining permission to present themselves to the
imperial presence; when they give an account of the state of the
87 district which they respectively govern. The bashaw of each
province communicates with the emperor, and determines which of the
alkaids[105] shall have the honour of presenting themselves. On
these occasions, that is, when the emperor comes to Marocco, it is
customary for the merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to
the metropolis[106] of the south, and to present his imperial
majesty with a present; indeed, it is not the etiquette of this
court for any one to demand an audience (which the lowest subject
in the realm may claim) without being prepared to present
something; so that the poor may have an audience by presenting half
a dozen eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or flowers;
but no one enters the imperial presence (_khawie_, as they term it,
_i. e._) empty-handed. The routine is this: The European merchants,
together with the house of Guedalla and Co., who are native Jews,
are called _el commercio;_ the commercio, therefore, solicit the
honour of presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer their
congratulations on his arrival; this is acceded to, and the
minister, who is denominated the _talb cadus_, a term designating a
man who disperses orders and communications to every one, writes a
88 letter to the commercio, expressive of the emperor's disposition to
see them, and requesting them to repair to his presence: a guard is
given by the alkaid of Mogodor, and a present _ought_ to be
selected of such articles as are not to be bought at the markets of
the country. A present consisting of such articles, previously
ordered from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better calculated
to gratify the emperor, than ten times the value injudiciously
collected. The merchants accordingly prepared themselves to proceed
to Marocco; some rode mules, some horses, for there are no
carriages in this country; and every individual had his tent and
servants with him. We travelled three days through a fine country,
and reached the city of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon,
travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of four miles an hour.
On our approach to the city, we sent an express to the _talb
cadus_, who, by the imperial order, appropriated the emperor's
garden, _jinnen el afia_, for our reception, the pavilion in which
was appropriated to our service; we preferred, however, in this
delightful climate, sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted
to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in the _coba_, or
pavilion. The (_talb cadus_) minister paid us a visit, to say that
the emperor requested we would take the following day to rest from
our journey, and at eight o'clock on the following morning, he
would receive us; the present was accordingly prepared, which was
89 carried by four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky ones
excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona silk handkerchief. The
emperor was in the (_m'ushoir_) place of audience, on that side of
the city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our presentation we
did not prostrate ourselves, but bowed, in the European manner; the
emperor said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which he uses in
interviews with Europeans, and which is equivalent to his saying,
you are welcome, merchants. To this we replied, _Allah iberk amer
seedi_, God bless the life of my master. The emperor asked if we
were recovered from the fatigue of our journey, and was quite
affable; he then said, communicate with the effendi[107], and
whatever you want shall be granted to you; for I am disposed to
encourage and (_amel el k'here_) to do good to my merchants. The
master of the audience then came to us, and signified that we might
depart; we made our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. This
was the audience of introduction, which is always short; the second
audience is for business; and the third is the audience of
departure. We remained encamped in the imperial garden a fortnight
before we had another audience; in the mean time we amused
ourselves in riding about the country, and in visiting some of the
90 most respectable inhabitants, among whom was the _cadus_, who has a
noble mansion, replete with every convenience, and a garden in the
centre of it. The rooms of this house were long and narrow, with a
pair of high doors in the centre of the room, through which alone
the light is admitted; the floors were paved with small glazed
tiles, about two inches square, very neatly fitted, and of
different colours; the walls were the same, a mode of building
which in this warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the
ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with brilliant
colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, having an insensible
declivity, just sufficient to give the rain that falls a course,
which falling into the pipes, is received in the (_mitfere_) a
subterraneous cistern, which supplies the family with water the
whole year, till the rainy season returns again.

[Footnote 105: In each province, or bashawick, there are
several alkaids or governors of districts.]

[Footnote 106: The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north,
as Marocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the
north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such as
are employed in the service of the crown.]

[Footnote 107: This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in
the presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but _cadus_
is the Arabic term.]

There is near to the walls of Marocco, about the north-west point,
a village, called (_Deshira el Jeddam_) i.e. the Village of Lepers.
I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was told that any
other excursion would be preferable; that the Lepers were totally
excluded from the rest of mankind; and that, although none of them
would dare to approach us, yet the excursion would be not only
unsatisfactory but disgusting. I was, however, determined to go; I
mounted my horse, and took two horse-guards with me, and my own
servant. We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants
91 collected at the doors of their habitations, but did not approach
us; they, _for the most part_, showed no external disfiguration,
but were generally sallow; some of the young women were very
handsome; they have, however, a paucity of eyebrow, which, it must
be allowed, is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some few had no
eyebrows at all, which completely destroyed the effect of their
dark animated eyes. They are obliged to wear a large straw hat,
with a brim about nine inches wide; this is their _badge of
separation_, a token of division between the clean and unclean,
which when seen in the country, or on the roads, prevents any one
from having personal contact with them. They are allowed to beg,
and accordingly are seen by the side of the roads, with their straw
hat badge, and a wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity of
passengers, exclaiming (_attanie m'ta Allah_) "bestow on me the
property of God;" (_kulshie m'ta Allah_) "all belongs to God!"
reminding the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable
for the appropriation of his property; that he derives his property
from the bounty and favour of God. When any one gives them money,
they pronounce a blessing on him; as (_Allah e zeed kherik_) "may
God increase your good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in
lepers; and it is said that the Arganic[108] oil, which, is much
used in food throughout this picturesque province, promotes this
loathsome disease!

[Footnote 108: This oil, which is excellent, and generally used
for frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the
learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the
_Commercio_ of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes
perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other bad
quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large onion
cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of bread,
equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few minutes more,
take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through a sieve,
and bottle it for daily use.]

92
The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually covered with snow,
gives a pleasant coolness to the air of the city, in the summer
season, particularly in the morning and evening; the coolness is
generally said, however, to produce ophthalmia.[109] These
mountains are immensely high, and their magnitude makes them appear
not more than five miles from the city. It is, however, a day's
journey to the foot of them, after which the ascent is so gradual,
that it takes two days more to reach the snow. This part of the
chain of Atlas, east of the city of Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty
miles west of Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles from
93 Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of Marocco to the foot of
Atlas; and it is two days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the
snow, which constantly covers the summit of these immense
mountains. They are thus seen at a distance of 245 miles:

20 miles from land at sea.
120 do. Mogodor to Marocco.
35 do. Marocco to the foot of
the mountains.
70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow.
---
Seen at 245 miles distance.
---

[Footnote 109: Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of
Marocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews live in
great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are in some
places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan doctrine does not
allow the Moors to neglect personal cleanliness, which, among
these people, is a cardinal virtue; and this, I presume, is the
cause of their being, in a great measure, exempt from
ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the contrary, are generally
affected with it.]

In this calculation, the direct distance in the ascent of the
mountain, is less than the travelling distance; but without taking
notice of the distance from the border of the snow to the summit of
this lofty mountain, which is said to be another day's journey, the
one may balance the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles as
the direct longitudinal distance, although I am persuaded it is
much more from the foot to the summit of that part of the Atlas
which is visible at sea.

H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted in the Asiatic
Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, that it requires an elevation of
28,000 feet, for an object to be visible at the distance of 200
94 geographical miles; now 245 English miles are equal to 211-1/2
geographical miles; consequently, if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the
summit of Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is seen at a
distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, must be 29,610 feet high,
or above five miles and a half.

Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, which lies east of Elala,
and which is constantly covered with snow, is situated three days'
journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from Elala, in Lower
Suse; Elala is three days' journey from Santa Cruz, horse
travelling, making together 180 miles: add for distance from the
foot of the Elala mountains to the snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in
Lower Suse will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 207
geographical miles.

Thus, from Santa Cruz to the }
foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles.
district of Elala, in Lower Suse }

Add for distance from the foot }
of the Elala mountains to the } 60
snow }
---
So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, }
being seen at a distance of } 240

Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude of 28,980 feet.

On the north side of the city of Marocco is a gate called _Beb El
Khummes_, and near it is held, every Thursday, a market called soke
_El Khummes_; at which immense quantities of horses, camels, mules,
asses, oxen, sheep, goats, wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums,
95 almonds, dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, &c. &c.
&c.; also, slaves, male and female. Such a horse as would cost in
London 50_l._, sells here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the
same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a cow, 15 dollars;
sheep, a dollar and a half, each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large
grained wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, sells at
one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar per Winchester bushel.
The slaves are conducted through the market by the auctioneer
(_delel_), who exclaims, occasionally, (_khumseen reeal aal
zeeada_, i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he finds no one
will advance; when he goes to the owner and declares the price
offered; the owner then decides if he will sell or not; if he
sells, the money is paid immediately, but if not, he takes his
slave away with him, and tries him again the next market-day, or
waits in expectation that this wretched article of trade will rise
in value.

A stranger passing through Marocco would consider it an irregular
miserable town; but the despotic nature of the government induces
every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; so that the
houses of the gentry are surrounded with a shabby wall, often
broken or out of repair, at a considerable distance from the
dwelling house, which does not appear, or is invisible to the
passenger. Some of these houses are very handsome, and are
furnished with couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other
96 furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a visitor or a guest
enters one of these houses, slaves come in with perfumes burning,
in compliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then presented in
small cups, having an outer cup to hold that which contains the
liquor, instead of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the
pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already sweetened with
sugar, a negro boy generally takes his station in one corner of a
spacious room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the guests by
another boy. The tea table is a round stand, about twelve inches
from the ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a leather
cushion, cross legged.

When dinner is served, the food is in a large dish or bowl, on a
round stand, similar to that above described; three, four, or more
sit round it; a servant comes to the company with a ewer and
napkin; each person wash their right hand, and eat with their
fingers; in the higher circles, rose-water is used instead of
plain; if soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; in this
respect the emperor himself sets them the example, who reprobates
the use of the precious metals with food.

When the Moors sit down to eat; high and low, rich and poor, (for I
have partaken of food with all ranks, from the prince to the
plebeian,) they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous to the
repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. Their first grace is,
invariable, short, and comprehensive; _bis'm illah_, "In the name
97 of God." The after grace is, _El Ham'd û littah_, "Praise be to
God."

A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this country, called
_cuscasoe_; it is made with flour, granulated into particles the
size of a partridge shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the
steam has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce the
effect of boiling; it is then taken off, broken, and returned to
steam a second time; in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is
boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with onions, turnips,
and other vegetables; when the _cuscasoe_ has been steamed a second
time, it is taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with some
butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in a large round bowl or
dish, garnished with the chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a
very nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when well cooked.
It is in high estimation with the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs,
and Negroes. When they sit down to eat, each person puts his
fingers into the dish before him; and in respectable society, it is
remarkable how dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths,
which never come into contact with their hands; so that this mode
of eating is scarcely objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as
some travellers have represented it; but who probably had
associated with the lower ranks of society, who, indeed, are not
particular in these observances.
98
All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: jewellers,
goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, tanners, &c. &c.; but that
which is the most honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed
himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent shoes, of leather
impervious to water, for 1_s._ 8_d._ per pair.

The time now approached for our audience of business, and we had
represented to the _Talb Cadus_, that the export duties on some
articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, and olive oil; also
on certain imports, viz. iron, steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but
no diminution was obtained, except in the duty of bees' wax. The
emperor gave hopes of an exportation of grain, and desired us to
write to Europe for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian
corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We were favourably
received; the emperor asked several questions respecting Europe,
and informed us we should return to Mogodor in a few days. Three
days after this audience we were ordered to meet the emperor in the
_Jenan En neel_, where we had our audience of leave, and the
emperor gave each of us a fine horse, chosen by ourselves out of
his own stable; and we took our leave and departed for Mogodor the
following evening. We slept encamped under the magnificent and
lofty date trees, in the neighbourhood of the city, the first
night.
99