Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter X: Part 10

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A neat tablet, at the east end of the church, commemorates Thomas Astle, who was long a distinguished member of the Society of Antiquaries, Keeper of the Records in the Tower, a Trustee of the British Museum, and author of Treatise "on the Origin and Progress of Writing." He died in 1802, and left a valuable collection of manuscripts. Here are also interred, Arthur Collins, Esq., known as the author of an "Historical Account of the Peers and Baronets of England;" William Curtis, author of the "Flora Londinensis," and the Rev. Joseph Gardner, author of "Views on the Rhine," and otherwise distinguished by his attachment to the arts. Bolingbroke House was a spacious edifice, said to have contained fifty rooms on a floor, of which a few only remain; among which is the favourite apartment of Lord Bolingbroke, wainscotted with cedar. A horizontal air-mill now occupies the site of this mansion, and in the gardens have been erected bullock-houses. Sherwood Lodge, near the Thames, is the residence of James Wolf, Esq. whose valuable collection of plaster-casts, from antique statues, are deposited in a gallery of Doric architecture, remarkable for the purity of its style. A wooden bridge was built over the Thames at this place, in 1771.

[Sidenote: Sir E. Wynter's exploits.]

[Sidenote: Bolingbroke house.]

[A] BATTLE, anciently called Epiton, derived its present denomination from the conflict between William the Norman, and Harold Harefoot, which decided the fate of these realms, and gave to the former the surname of Conqueror. This engagement happened on the 14th of October, 1066, and continued from morning until sunset, when the Normans had sustained a loss of 15000 men, and the English four times that number, among whom was their king. The Conqueror, grateful for his victory, and in performance of a vow, commenced the foundation of an abbey on that part of the field where the battle had raged most fiercely, causing the high altar to be raised on the spot where the body of his valiant antagonist; or, as others say, his standard had been found. This abbey was dedicated to St. Martin, and the privileges enjoyed by the superiors within its precincts were almost regal; an exclusive right of inquest in cases of murder--the property of all treasure discovered there--free warren and exemption, even for their tenants, from all ecclesiastical jurisdiction--right of sanctuary for their church in cases of homicide--and the power of pardoning any condemned thief whom they should meet going to execution. From the foundation of this abbey, till its dissolution, it was governed by thirty-one abbots. Sometime after the latter period, it was the property of the Montagues, who sold it to Sir Thomas Webster, and that gentleman made it his residence. Sir Godfrey Webster, Bart., is the present owner. In its present state, Battle Abbey bears ample testimony to its ancient magnificence, the ruins being extensive, and exhibiting a mixture of the light Norman with the solid Saxon architecture. These remains occupy two sides of a quadrangle, of which one is an ancient gateway. Nine elegant arches, now filled up, are all that remain of the church. Two detached buildings, supposed to have been refectories, are now converted into offices. The town of Battle consists of one street, and has a handsome church, the windows of which are embellished with stained glass. The chancel contains a fine altar-monument to the memory of Sir Anthony Browne, armour-bearer to Henry VIII. This place is celebrated for a manufacture of gunpowder, inferior only to that at Dartford.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Monday; Nov. 22, cattle and
pedlary; second Tuesday in every month, cattle.--_Bankers_, Smith,
Gill, and Co., draw on Spooner and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 4.20 morning;
departs 9.40 afternoon.--_Inn_, George.

[Sidenote: The Abbey.]

[B] BATTLE. The church is placed upon an eminence on the east side of the Escir river. It is a low edifice surrounded by a cemetry, bounded by a wall. A few straggling houses give this place the name of a village. History has fixed this spot as the scene of action where the fate of Brecknockshire was decided, upon its attack by Bernard Newmarch. The vestiges which indicate such an event, are, a well called Ffynon Pen Rhys; a lane called Heol y Cymri, and a long upright stone below the church on the south side; no other vestiges remain to recall the event. Half a mile eastward from Battle, appears the stately residence of the vicar of Llandevalle. Upon the wall of an inner court is an inscription in Latin. From the windows of this house are three most beautiful views; on the east side through a small vista, are seen the village of Llanddew, and in the back ground the black mountain beyond Talgarth. From the library, in which is a capital picture of our Saviour bearing the Cross, by Correggio, looking west, is the vale of Usk, with the highly ornamented grounds above Penpont; beyond which, Abercamlais, and the mountains in Llywel and Devynock close the scene. Nearly opposite is the gradually rising knoll of Benni, covered to the top on all sides with wood, beyond which appear the precipitous and majestic summits of the Beacons. Merthyr Cynog, or Saint Cynog, lies about four miles north. Cynog or Canoc, was the illegitimate son of Brychan Brecheinog. He was slain or murdered in one of the early eruptions of the Saxons into Wales, in the 5th century, on the summit of a hill in this parish, nearly opposite Castlemadoc, called Vanoleu, and according to Owen, was buried in Merthyr church. The edifice which remains, does not appear to be of an earlier date than the Norman era; it is situated upon a lofty ridge between the vales of Escir fawr and Escir fechan, in nearly the centre of the parish. It resembles a large barn, in which are some divisions, like pens for sheep, thrown in disorder to rot, when unfit for use.

[Sidenote: Scene of a Welsh battle.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From |
+--+--------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+
25|Battle Bridge ham|Middlesex |Holborn Bars 1|Paddington 2|
3|Battleden[A] pa|Bedford |Woburn 3|Hockliffe 2|
33|Battlefield[B] pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 4|Wem 9|
16|Baughurst pa|Hants |Basingstoke 7|Kingsclere 3|
4|Baulking ham|Berks |Farringdon 4|Wantage 6|
34|Baumber pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 6|Wragby 8|
15|Baunton pa|Glocester |Cirencester 2|Northleach 9|
56|Bauseley to|Montgomery|Welch Pool 10|Shrewsbury 12|
41|Baverstock pa|Wilts |Wilton 4|Salisbury 7|
29|Bavington, Great to|Northumb |Hexham 12|Bellingham 12|
29|Bavington, Little to|Northumb | ... 11| ... 12|
+--+--------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+--------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+
25|Battle Bridge ham|Hoxton 2| 1| |
3|Battleden[A] pa|Leighton 4| 39| 145|
33|Battlefield[B] pa|Shawbury 4| 155| 70|
16|Baughurst pa|Newbury 11| 54| 434|
4|Baulking ham|Lambourne 7| 66| 185|
34|Baumber pa|Louth 12| 141| 356|
15|Baunton pa|Gloucester 17| 91| 144|
56|Bauseley to|Oswestry 11| 165| 365|
41|Baverstock pa|Shaftesbury 13| 292| 166|
29|Bavington, Great to|Newcastle 20| 88| 70|
29|Bavington, Little to| ... 2| 291| 72|
+--+--------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BATTLEDEN lies between the two great north-western roads. The family of Firmband, or Fremband, twice represented the county in parliament, as early as the reign of Edward III. In the reign of Elizabeth it became the property of the Duncombes; and it is to one of this family that we are indebted for the accommodation of the now antiquated sedans, or close chairs; and in the year 1634, Duncombe is said to have procured a patent, which vested in him and his heirs the right of carrying persons "up and down in them," for a certain term. "It is probable, (observes Lysons,) that Sir Saunders, who was a great traveller, had seen them at Sedan, where Dr. Johnson, supposes that they were first made; and it is remarkable that Captain Bayley first introduced the use of Hackney Coaches in the same year." In the year 1706, this manor was purchased by Allen Bathurst, Esq., a distinguished political character during the reigns of Queen Anne and George I. It was for many years the country seat of Lord Bathurst, and the resort of a celebrated constellation of wits, of whom he was the patron and friend.

[Sidenote: The invention of Sedan chairs.]

[B] BATTLEFIELD is a parish in the liberties of Shrewsbury, and derives its name from a sanguinary battle which was fought there on Saturday the 21st of July, 1403, between Henry the Fourth and the Rebels, under Percy, Earl of Nothumberland, and in which Lord Henry Percy, well known as the valiant Hotspur, was slain, together with nearly 2300 gentlemen and others, and upwards of 600 common soldiers fell on that memorable occasion. After this signal victory, Henry the fourth caused a collegiate church to be erected on the spot for secular canons, which was dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene, the battle having been fought on the anniversary of that day. This college was dissolved in the general wreck of establishments of this kind, when its revenues amounted to L54 10s. 4d. per annum; it is now the parish church. At the east end, over the altar window, is a figure of Henry the Fourth, much defaced by the corroding hand of time. In a niche in the south wall, is a rude carving in wood of the Virgin and child; and in the east window are still to be traced some mutilated remains of stained glass; but the most interesting object in this church, is a splendid gothic monument, recently erected to the memory of the late John Corbet, Esq. of Sundorne. This beautiful specimen of architecture is called the Tudor gothic; the interior represents the miniature aisle of a cathedral or cloister, with its elaborately groined roof, and the front is adorned by the heraldic blazonings of the family. This fine and highly prized piece of art was designed by the Rev. Archdeacon Owen, of Shrewsbury, and most admirably executed by Messrs. Carline of that town, in a warmly tinted fine grained stone, from the Grinshill quarries in the neighbourhood.

[Sidenote: Battle between Henry the Fourth and Percy of Northumberland.]

[Sidenote: Splendid monument.]

[A] BAWTRY is a small town situated on the edge of Yorkshire, adjoining Nottinghamshire. It is handsome and well built; and the high street, through which lies the great North Road from London to Edinburgh, is very broad, and contains some elegant houses. At the upper part of this street is the market-place, in which are some excellent shambles. The town stands on a gentle but pleasant eminence, which slopes from the north and east down to the river Idle, which river is navigable to this place for small craft. On the western side of the town the ground is high and exceedingly pleasant, but the eastern, or marshy side, is subject to frequent winter inundations. The object which most travellers consider more especially worthy of attention, is the elegant mansion of the Viscountess Galway. The edifice is built of brick and is pleasantly situated at the southern extremity of the town; it has an extensive and handsome front, but a high brick wall secludes it from public view. The pleasure grounds which are kept in excellent condition, are stocked with Chinese pheasants, and other rare and curious birds. Near this place the Archbishops of York had a palace; and at this mansion, Archbishop Savage, in the time of Henry VII. delighted to take his pleasure in hunting; and in the next reign it was the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. The palace stood in a very low and damp situation, close to the confluence of the small river Ryton with the Idle. The great gateway, and the porter's lodge, were taken down towards the end of the last century, and what remains of the palace has been converted into a farm house.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Tuesday; and November 22, for
cattle and horses.--_Inn_, Crown--_Mail_ arrives 2.0 afternoon;
departs 11.30 morning.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Viscountess Galway.]

[B] BAYSWATER is situated on the Oxford Road, and is the first place passed after leaving London; it has been much increased of late by the building of new streets and genteel residences. A reservoir, under the same management as the water works of Chelsea, is in the neighbourhood. Bayswater Tea Gardens were formerly the Botanic gardens of Sir John Hill, who cultivated there his medicinal plants, and prepared his Water Dock, Essence, and Balsam of Honey. The reservoir before mentioned, was intended for the supply of the palace at Kensington, and the bason before the palace was to be kept constantly full by the proprietors; and, it was upon this condition that the property was granted them. It now supplies that part of the city estates situated in about Bond-street, with water.

[A] BEACHAMPTON. The remains of the mansion of the Bennetts have been converted into a farm-house, but the great hall is still standing. In the parish church are some monuments of this family; among which there is one to the memory of Sir Simon Bennett, who was created a baronet in 1627, and is recorded in history as having been a great friend to the poor, and to University College, Oxford. This monument, it appears, was set up by the college 100 years after his death, and great blame is imputed to them for having delayed it so long. Mr. William Elmer, by his will, bearing date 1648, founded a free grammar school in this parish. The school-house was finished in 1667. The master, by an express clause in the founder's will, must be a single man, and is to reside in the school-house. It is endowed with lands, which are charged with the payment of a certain pension of L2. per annum, to eight poor men, and L1. per annum to as many poor women; and it is further provided, that three of each of these shall be inhabitants of this parish.

[Sidenote: Free grammar school.]

[B] BEACHLEY from its almost insulated situation, has always been of great importance in a military point of view, for there are extensive earthworks of British origin still remaining. Offa's-dyke, which terminates here, is still to be traced. In the civil wars this place was considered of much importance, for Prince Rupert despatched a body of 500 horse and foot to occupy and fortify it. But history relates, that even before the fortifications were completed, the garrison was dislodged with great loss, by Governor Massie. After this, a battle was fought between the royalists and the parliamentary forces, under Sir John Wyntor, when the latter was defeated with the loss of 220 men; and it is currently reported that he himself was forced to leap from the cliff into the river Severn, where a small boat lay ready to receive him; it is certain the place still goes by the name of "Wyntor's leap." The ferry over the river Severn has been before mentioned at page 63. Here is an inn called Beachley Passage House Inn. The time of high water is nearly the same as at Bristol Quay, and is always to be seen in the Bristol Newspapers. If the wind be northerly, this passage may be crossed for five hours before high-water; and if the wind be southerly or westerly, it may be passed for seven hours after high-water.

[Sidenote: Once a place of great importance.]

[Sidenote: Waller, the poet.]

[C] BEACONSFIELD is a small place, although it is one of great thoroughfare, but the market is almost wholly disused; in fact, Wycombe and Uxbridge appear to have drawn away the business. The manor, anciently an estate of the Windsors, afterwards became the property of the Monks of Burnham Abbey, a building but a few miles distant. Edmund Waller, the poet, was born at Coleshill, in this neighbourhood, at which place see his life; he was proprietor of the very pleasing seat, called Hall Barns, an ancient mansion belonging to the family; he lies buried in the churchyard, and a monument has been erected to his memory, with a latin inscription, too long and too dry to be given in our work. Gregories, in this parish, was the seat of the celebrated Edmund Burke, who, for critical taste and brilliancy of language, will ever be ranked amongst the most fascinating of English writers. His company was sought for by all who could make the slightest pretension to kindred genius. He died in this town, and was buried in the church, where a marble tablet is set up, with a short inscription, to his memory. The apartments at Butler's Court, formerly Gregories, contained some fine paintings, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and some valuable marbles. This seat, we believe, came into the possession of Mr. Burke through the friendship of Lord Verney and the Marquis of Rockingham, by whose munificence he was enabled to purchase it. The widow of the late Mr. Burke continued to reside at Butler's Court till the period of her death, which took place a few years after that of her late husband; the mansion and estate was afterwards purchased by James Dupre, Esq., who let the house to the master of a boarding-school, and in whose occupation it was destroyed by fire: the grounds have since been adapted to the purpose of agriculture. For the following interesting sketch of the illustrious and distinguished statesman, (Burke,) we are indebted to Dr. Watkin's Biographical Dictionary:--"He was born at Dublin, in 1730. His father was an attorney, and a Protestant. The son received his education under Abraham Shackleton, a Quaker, who kept a school at Ballytore, near Carlow, and it is recorded to the honour of Mr. Burke, that whenever he visited Ireland he always paid his respects to his old tutors: in 1746 he entered as a scholar at Trinity College, which he left on taking his bachelor's degree in 1749, and soon after became candidate for the professorship of logic at Glasgow, but did not succeed. In 1753 he entered of the Middle Temple, where he applied more to general literature than to the law, and supported himself by writing for the booksellers. Falling ill, through too close an application to his studies, he removed to the house of Dr. Nugent, a physician, whose daughter he afterwards married. In 1756 he published a pamphlet, entitled, "A Vindication of Natural Society." This piece was purposely drawn up in the manner of Lord Bolingbroke, and for a time imposed upon the friends of that writer as his real productions. His next performance was the Essay on the Sublime and Beautiful, published in 1757. This philosophical piece of criticism, written in a fine and elegant style, procured the author a great reputation, and the esteem of the first literary characters of the age; the principal of whom was Dr. Johnson. In 1758, he suggested to Mr. Dodsley, the bookseller, the plan of the "Annual Register," the historical part of which he wrote for several years. In 1761 he went to Ireland as the companion of his friend Mr. Hamilton, secretary to the Earl of Halifax, then Lord-Lieutenant. That gentleman, who was generally known by the name of Single-speech Hamilton, from the circumstance of his making only one speech in parliament, but one of uncommon eloquence, procured him a pension of L300. on the Irish establishment. On his return from Ireland he was made private secretary to the Marquis of Rockingham, First Lord of the Treasury, who brought him into parliament for Wendover. The Rockingham party continued in power but a short time, and on going out of office, Mr. Burke wrote a forcible pamphlet upon the subject, entitled, "A Short Account of a Short Administration;" after which, he became an active member of the opposition, as a senator and also as a writer. A pamphlet of his, entitled, "Thoughts on the Causes of the present Discontents," excited considerable interest as a bold exposure of court intrigues and favourites, in controlling the operations of ministers. In the struggle between Great Britain and the colonies, Mr. Burke bore a distinguished part as an opponent to the ministry. His speeches were vehement, and had so powerful an influence upon the people, that the citizens of Bristol, in 1774, invited him to be one of their representatives, without his being at the least expense. But at the next election in 1780, he was rejected by them for having supported the Irish petition for a free trade, and the bill for relieving Roman Catholics. He was then returned for Malton, in Yorkshire. At this time he gained great popularity by his introduction of a bill for a reform in the national expenditure, on which he spent prodigious labour, but it was unsuccessful. When the Marquis of Rockingham returned to power on the resignation of Lord North, in 1782, Mr. Burke obtained the post of Paymaster-general of the Forces, and a seat in the Privy Council; but this was of short duration, for on the death of his patron, Lord Shelbourne became First Lord of the Treasury, and Mr. Burke, with several of his friends, resigned their places. In the coalition, which for a little while succeeded the Shelbourne administration, Mr. Burke had his share both of emolument and abuse. The leading particulars of his political life, after this, were his exertions against Mr. Hastings, in which he manifested uncommon industry to fasten guilt upon that gentleman, with no small share of personal asperity; his vigorous opposition to Mr. Pitt's design of forming a limited regency on the King's illness in 1788; and above all, his ardour against the actors and defenders of the French revolution. On the latter subject he evinced peculiar sagacity at the outset, and when many worthy men were rejoicing at the prospect of rising liberty and happiness to the world, Mr. Burke predicted, with remarkable precision, the desolation, bloodshed, anarchy, and misery which ensued. He displayed his detestation of the revolutionists in the House of Commons, and separated himself in consequence from Mr. Fox, and many other of his old associates. In 1790 he published his famous "Reflections on the Revolution in France," which attracted wonderful attention, and produced a surprising effect upon the public mind. Many publications appeared in answer to this book; the most noted of which was Paine's pamphlet, entitled "The Rights of Man," wherein the principles of republicanism were so artfully addressed to the feelings of ordinary persons, as to excite for a time no small alarm to the friends of government. Mr. Burke, after this, published a variety of pamphlets in support of his positions: as, "A Letter to a Member of the National Assembly;" "An Appeal from the New Whigs to the Old;" "Thoughts on a Regicide peace," &c. His zeal on this occasion, as well as his extraordinary talents, recommended him to the royal favour, and he obtained a pension, which gave room for those who had been galled by his arguments, to reproach him, and some illiberal animadversions were made upon him in the senate, which drew from him that admirable defence, his "Letter to a Noble Lord," in which he retaliates upon a celebrated Duke in a strain of keen irony and dignified remonstrance. Mr. Burke withdrew from parliament in 1794, leaving his seat for Malton to his son, an accomplished young man, who died shortly after. This melancholy event hastened his death, which happened the 8th of July, 1797. A little before his death he caused to be read to him Addison's paper in the Spectator, on the Immortality of the Soul. Mr. Burke was very amiable in his private life, of correct deportment, faithful in his attachments; charitable to the poor, and religious without being superstitious. He had a fine taste for the arts, and was fond of gardening and architecture," Bulstrode, the seat of the Duke of Portland, is within three miles of the town; a more detailed account of this elegant mansion will be given in a future portion of our work.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Feb. 13; and Holy Thursday, for
horses, cows, and sheep.--_Mail_ arrives 11.10 night; departs, 3.30
morning.--_Inn_, Saracen's Head.

[Sidenote: The celebrated Edmund Burke.]

[Sidenote: Sketch of his life.]

[Sidenote: Burke's reflections on the French revolution, &c.] [Sidenote: His death.]

[A] BEAMINSTER is a town of very great antiquity; it is situated on a fertile spot near the banks of the small river Birt. The prebendaries of Salisbury were formerly lords of the manor, until the parliamentary commissioners (who appear to have made very free with church property) seized it, and for a time it passed into other hands, but it was only for a time: the right at length became acknowledged, and in the possession of the prebendaries of Sarum it now remains. This town has suffered much by the devastation of fire, and still more by the destructive sword of civil, or rather uncivil, warfare. Britton speaks of a record of the former being preserved in a blank leaf of an old Bible, in the possession of a gentleman of this town, which memorandum ran as follows:--"The towne of Beaminster was burnt on Palme Sunday, being the 14th day of April, and in the year of our Lord 1644. At the same time prince Maurice, being in the towne seven dayes before the fire, and there continued till the fire burnt him out of his quarters. The fire was first kindled in John Sergeant's house, in North-street; it was a musket discharged in the gable; and it was wild-fire, and the winde lying directly with the towne, the whole place was destroyed in two hours; and those goods for the most part which were saved out of the fire were carried away by the soldiers. There were seven score and four dwelling-houses, besides barns and stables, burnt." An eye-witness in Sir Thomas Fairfax's army describes it as "a place of the pitifullest spectacle that man can behold; hardly a house left not consumed by fire." Two thousand pounds were granted by the parliament to assist in re-building the town: this, with other sums, raised by the neighbouring gentry, answered the purpose. But it appears that the place was doomed to destruction, for in June, 1684, it was again consumed, and the loss is said to have amounted to L10,000.: nor did its misfortunes end here, for in the gusty month of March, in the year 1781, upwards of fifty dwelling-houses, besides barns, stables, and other buildings, were reduced to ruins in the short space of three hours. Mrs. Tucker founded a free-school here, in 1684, for the purpose of affording education to twenty of the poorest boys in the town; three or four of these boys were to be apprenticed annually, and it is necessary that one of these, at least, should become a seaman. The Rev. Mr. Samuel Hood, father of Lord Hood, was master of this school in the year 1715. The inhabitants are principally engaged in the manufacture of sail-cloth, and in the production of iron, tin, and copper ware. The work-house is a large commodious building; formerly an alms-house.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, April 4; September 19, for horses,
sheep, and cattle.

[Sidenote: Destroyed by fire in 1644.]

[Sidenote: Burnt down in 1684, and again in 1781.]

[B] BEAUDESERT. This place is situated in the hundred of Barlichway. The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and exhibits some good specimens of ancient architecture. The village was the birth-place of Richard Jago, the poet, who was the son of the rector: he was born in 1715, and was educated at Solihull grammar-school, about eleven miles distant from this place. His first poetical production which attracted notice was an "Elegy on the Death of a Blackbird," and this was followed by a poem, descriptive of the "Battle of Edgehill," which is considered the most finished of his works: the subject was in all probability suggested by his residence in the neighbourhood of the scene of action. He died on the 8th of April, 1781.

[A] BEAULIEU. The river Exe, over which there is a bridge, is navigable up to this village. Here is a manufacture of coarse sacking. The ruins of Beaulieu Abbey are beautifully situated on the eastern banks of the river. The delightful valley which surrounds these venerable remains, is of a circular form, bounded by well-wooded hills, and in itself, consists of a rich variety of ground. The Abbey was founded, A.D. 1204, by King John, for monks of the Cistercian order; a class of friars to which that monarch had been previously particularly adverse. The king, it is said, after various oppressive measures exercised against the Cistercians, summoned the Abbots and principals of that order, to Lincoln, whither they hastened, flattering themselves that he would there confer upon them some marks of his grace and favor. Instead of this, say the monkish historians, "the savage monarch ordered the Abbots to be trodden to death, by horses: but none of his attendants being found sufficiently cruel to obey the sanguinary command, the ecclesiastics, dreadfully alarmed, retired hastily to their inn. In the course of the ensuing night, when the monarch slumbered on his bed, he dreamt that he was standing before a Judge, accompanied by the Cistercian Abbots, who were commanded to scourge him severely with rods and thongs; and when he awoke in the morning, he declared that he still felt the smart of the beating. On relating this dream to a certain ecclesiastic of his court, he was advised to crave pardon of the Abbots, whom he had before so barbarously treated; and assured, that the Almighty had been infinitely merciful to him, in thus revealing the mysteries of his dispensations, and affording him paternal correction. The king, adopting this counsel, ordered the Abbots to attend him; and, contrary to their expectations, received them with kindness:" and the remembrance of his dream still continuing to influence his conduct, he shortly after granted a charter for the foundation of the Abbey of Beaulieu. It was greatly enriched by succeeding grants; and at the Dissolution, its possessions were estimated at the annual value of L428. 6s. 8d. The manor of Beaulieu, with all its rights, privileges, and appurtenances, (the rectory and right of patronage excepted), was granted to Thomas Wriothesley, Esq. afterwards Earl of Southampton. The circumference of the manor embraces an extent of 28 miles, and the clear annual revenue amounts to between L4000 and L5000. The immediate precincts of the Abbey were encircled by a stone wall, the remains of which are richly mantled with ivy. An edifice, nearly square, now called the palace, but originally built for the Abbot's lodging, was converted into a family seat after the Dissolution. Over the entrance is a canopied niche, in which stood the image of the Virgin Mary. The hall is a well proportioned room, handsomely vaulted, the ribs springing from pilasters, and spreading over the roof in beautiful ramifications. Eastward from this edifice is a long building, supposed from the extent and height of the apartments, to have been the dormitory; beneath it are several good cellars. The ancient kitchen is also standing, and near it is the refectory, a plain stone edifice, with strong buttresses: this is now the parish church of Beaulieu; the Abbey church, which stood to the north-east, having been entirely destroyed. On the west side is the ancient rostrum, or pulpit, from which lectures were read when the monks were assembled at their meals below. The site of the Abbey Church may be traced by the unevenness of the ground; but not a vestige of the building is remaining. Fragments of demolished tombs are occasionally dug up here, this having been the burial-place of various illustrious and noble personages, and among them, Queen Eleanor, mother of King John. Some traces of the cloisters are yet distinguishable. Whilst Beaulieu Abbey was invested with the privilege of a sanctuary, its walls afforded a temporary protection to Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VI.; who, returning from the continent, in expectation of being reinstated in her former dignity, was informed of the imprisonment of her husband, the destruction of his army, and the death of the Earl of Warwick, and the elevation to the throne of Edward IV. Another celebrated fugitive, to whom this abbey afforded sanctuary, was Perkin Warbeck, who, after many vicissitudes, was executed at Tyburn, in 1499.

[Sidenote: The Abbey founded by King John.]

[Sidenote: The king's singular dream.]

[Sidenote: The manor extends 28 miles.]

[Sidenote: Burial place of Queen Eleanor.]

[A] BEAUMARIS, though but a small place, is the capital of the island; it is finely situated on a low shore, called Beaumaris Bay. The present town appears to have originated from the circumstance of a castle having been erected here about the close of the 13th century, by Edward I. It lies close to the town, covering a large space of ground, in a low situation. Its erection was subsequent to its proud rivals Conway and Caernarvon. The necessity of the present castle arose from Rhyddlan, upon the opposite shore, being often possessed by the Welsh princes. It appears to have been the last of the three great fortresses erected by Edward. On the conquest of Wales in 1295, he fixed upon this spot with a view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls, by a canal, part of which was, till lately, remaining. From the period of its erection to the time of Charles I., it does not appear to have been at all conspicuous on the page of history. A communication was made between various parts of the inner court, by means of a surrounding gallery, about six feet wide, a considerable portion of which is yet entire. Within recesses, in the sides of the gallery, are several square apertures, apparently once furnished with trap doors, which opened into rooms beneath; but their use has not been ascertained. Mr. Grose thinks they might have been used for the purposes of imprisonment. A tennis, fives court, and bowling-green, have been formed within the interior. The town of Beaumaris was surrounded with walls, for its defence, and placed under the government of a corporation, endowed with various privileges and lands. Mr. Lloyd supposes, from local tokens being circulated by opulent tradesmen, about the year 1650, of which he had several in his possession, that it was a place of considerable traffic. The present town consists of several streets, of which one terminated by the castle is handsome, and the houses are generally well built. Beaumaris is much frequented during the summer months, by numerous genteel families, attracted by the pleasantness of this part of the island, and to avail themselves of the benefit of sea-bathing. The parochial church is a handsome structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, and two aisles, with a large square embattled tower. In the vestry adjoining were deposited the remains of lady Beatrice Herbert, daughter of the celebrated mirror of chivalry, the Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Near which lies interred the Rev. Gronwy Davies, with an inscription concluding as follows:

"Here lies learning, friendship, love;
And innocency of the dove.
Within this grave and in the dust
His ever courteous body must
Until the resurrection lie;
Then he shall live and death shall die."

The free-school was erected and liberally endowed by David Hughes, Esq., in the year 1603, who ten years afterwards founded also an excellent alms-house for six poor persons, to whom he granted small annuities. He was born about the middle of the 16th century, in a cottage now in ruins. He left the island early in life, in a very humble station, but by prudence and propriety of conduct, he made a decent fortune.

"'T is here the active worth of Hughes appears,
A blessed asylum for the wreck of years!
If there his views the opening mind engage,
Here he supports the trembling limbs of age;
His breast embrac'd within his godlike plan,
At once the morn and evening hours of man!
And ye who here his lasting bounty share,
Whose tranquil days decline without a care!
If still, as night shall close, day greet your eyes,
No grateful aspirations reach the skies,
Indignant heaven beholds you with a frown,
Nor gives the ingrate, life's immortal crown." LLOYD.

The old town-hall, built in 1563, has been taken down, and under the patronage of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, another more elegant has been erected upon its site. The town, re-incorporated in the 4th year of Elizabeth, is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four burgessess, two serjeants at mace, a town clerk, jailor, four constables, and a water-bailiff. The county hall is a small low building, being neither conveniently formed nor respectable in its appearance. The custom-house stands upon the green near the edge of the water. Beaumaris bay consists of an expansive opening in front of the town, so sheltered by the island of Priesholme and the great Ormeshead, as to allow vessels of considerable burden to ride in safety, during the most stormy weather. The depth of water near the town, at ebb-tide, is from six to seven fathoms, but the channel scarcely exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth. The greater part of the bay is left dry for several miles when the tide is out, which part is called the Lavan Sands. These once formed a habitable hundred, belonging to the territory of Arson. They were formerly called Wylofaen, or the place of Weeping, from the shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants at the time when the land was overwhelmed by the sea. Lavan is a corruption of Traeth Talaven, or the fermented heap, allusive to the boiling up of water in the quicksands. The ferry was granted by charter to the corporation in the 4th year of Elizabeth: it lies near the town. The place of embarking or landing is the point anciently known under the appellation of Penrhyn Safness, but afterwards Osmund's Air, from a malefactor, who on his way to execution, being asked where he was going, answered, "To take the air." The walk over the sand at low water is firm and good; they should be passed three hours after high water, and will be safe for four hours; or in other words, two hours before low water and two after. Precautions are essentially necessary to be taken, for near the times of the sands being covered by the sea they are frequently shifting, and in many places become so watery or quick, as to have proved both dangerous and fatal. This way is equally perilous in foggy weather, but as some persons are necessitated to pass in every season, the large bell at Aber is humanely rung, to direct them towards the sound.

_Market_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb. 13, Holy Thursday,
Sept. 19, and Dec. 19, for cattle.--_Inn_, Bull's Head.

[Sidenote: Chief town in Anglesea.]

[Sidenote: Much frequented in summer.]

[Sidenote: Its government.]

[Sidenote: Lavan sands]

[Sidenote: Caution.]

[A] BECCLES is a large and well-built town, situated on the river Waveny, which is navigable from this place to Yarmouth, and divides in its course the counties of Suffolk and Norfolk. It is governed by a portreeve and thirty-six burgesses, the office of the former being held in rotation by twelve of the latter. The church is gothic, with a steeple, containing twelve bells, and a porch, which is considered a fine specimen of the florid gothic. The ruins of Endgate church may be seen out of the town, but the inhabitants of the village appear to have been long esteemed parishioners of Beccles. Here is a theatre, a town hall, a jail, and a free school, endowed with 100 acres of land, in the reign of James I.; and a good grammar-school founded by Dr. Falconberge, and endowed with an estate, then worth forty pounds per annum, although now considerably increased in value. Near the town is a large common, on which the inhabitants of the town have the privilege of feeding their cattle on easy terms. In 1586 a fire consumed eighty houses in this place, and property to the amount of L20,000.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Whit Monday, June 29, and October 2,
for horses and pedlary.--_Bankers_, Gurney and Co., draw on Barclay
and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.15 morning; departs 3.45
afternoon.--_Inns_, King's Head, and White Lion.

[Sidenote: Fine gothic church.]

[B] BECKENHAM. The church of this village is a neat edifice, containing many monuments of the Style, Raymond, Burrell, and other families. On a slab in the chancel, is a remarkable brass, to the memory of dame Margaret, wife of Sir William Dalsell, Knt., and daughter of John Barnes. Esq., of Redhall, in Norfolk, who died 1563: she is represented in a flowered petticoat, and close-bodied gown; the sleeves slashed at the shoulders, and hanging down to the feet. Here is also the monument of Mrs. Jane Clarke, wife of Dr. Clarke, physician at Epsom, with an elegant inscription, by Gray. The parish register, under the date of Oct. 24, 1740, also records the burial of Margaret Finch, who lived to the age of 109 years. She was one of the people called gipsies, and had the title of their queen. After travelling over various parts of the kingdom, during the greater part of a century, she settled at Norwood, whither her great age, and the fame of her fortune-telling, attracted numerous visitors. From a habit of sitting on the ground, with her chin resting on her knees, the sinews at length became so contracted, that she could not rise from that posture: after her death, they were obliged to inclose her body in a deep square box. Her funeral was attended by two mourning coaches: a sermon was preached upon the occasion, and a great concourse of people attended the ceremony. Her picture adorns the sign-post of a house of public entertainment in Norwood, called the Gipsy House. Beckenham-place, the seat of John Cator, Esq., is partly in the parish of Bromley; but the mansion itself is in that of Beckenham. Rear-Admiral Sir Piercy Brett, who died in 1781, (and with his lady, lies buried in the church,) resided here. The estate, which had long been owned by the St. Johns, was alienated to the Cators, in 1773. The house is a handsome building, commanding a beautiful prospect. Kent House, the ancient seat of the Lethieullers, in Beckenham parish, is now occupied as a farm: the estate belongs to J.J. Angerstein, Esq. Clay Hill, or the Oakery, also in this parish, was the property of the late learned Edward King, Esq., F.R., and A.S. This gentleman, who was a native of Norfolk, was elected president of the Society of Antiquaries on the decease of Dr. Milles, in 1784; but, on the succeeding election in the year following, he was obliged to relinquish the chair to the Earl of Leicester, after an unprecedented contest. He was the author of various works; the principal of which are, his "Observations on Ancient Castles;" "Morsels of Criticism," tending to illustrate the Scriptures; and the "Monumenta Antiqua." He died in 1806, at the age of 72.

[Sidenote: Queen of the gipsies died here, at the age of 109.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
9|Beckermet, St. | | | |
| Bridgetts pa|Cumberland|Egremont 3|Ravenglass 10|
9|Beckermet, St. Johns pa|Cumberland| 4| 9|
4|Becket ti|Berks |Farringdon 6|Highworth 4|
15|Beckford pa|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 5|Sedgeberrow 4|
27|Beckham, East pa|Norfolk |Cromer 5|Holt 5|
27|Beckham, West pa|Norfolk | ... 5| ... 5|
41|Beckhampton[A] ti|Wilts |Marlbro' 7|Devizes 8|
24|Beckingham pa|Lincoln |Newark 5|Leadenham 5|
30|Beckingham pa|Nottingham|Gainsbro' 3|E. Retford 7|
34|Beckington[B] pa|Somerset |Frome 3|Trowbridge 6|
31|Beckley pa|Oxford |Oxford 5|Islip 3|
38|Beckley pa|Sussex |Rye 7|Newenden 3|
45|Beckwith Shaw |York |West End 4|Otley 7|
44|Bedale[C] m.t. & pa|N.R. York |Northallerton 8|Leeming 3|
+--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-----+-------+
9|Beckermet, St. | | | |
| Bridgetts pa|Whitehaven 9| 291| 545|
9|Beckermet, St. Johns pa| 10| 290| 549|
4|Becket ti|Lambourne 10| 73| |
15|Beckford pa|Evesham 7| 106| 433|
27|Beckham, East pa|Aylesham 9| 124| 50|
27|Beckham, West pa| ... 9| 124| 156|
41|Beckhampton[A] ti|Calne 6| 81| |
24|Beckingham pa|Sleaford 14| 126| 43|
30|Beckingham pa|Bawtry 10| 152| 481|
34|Beckington[B] pa|Bath 10| 105| 1340|
31|Beckley pa|Forest-hill 3| 53| 776|
38|Beckley pa|Lamberhurst 16| 56| 1477|
45|Beckwith Shaw |Ripley 5| 64| |
44|Bedale[C] m.t. & pa|Richmond 10| 223| 2707|
+--+-----------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BECKHAMPTON. Near this place is an enormous tumulus, perhaps the largest in England; it is called Silbury Hill, and common belief declares it the place of sepulchre of some British king. The two antiquaries, Greethead and Stukeley differ, as antiquaries frequently do, with regard to which of the British monarchs the honor of being supposed to lie beneath this stupendous monument should belong. The former learned writer asserting it to be that of Prydain, and the latter calling it that of Cynneda. Scattered over the neighbouring downs are numerous large stones called the Grey Wethers; they bear this name from their resemblance to a flock of sheep. Beckhampton Inn, stands at the junction of the two great Mail roads, leading from London to Bath; the southern road passing through Devizes and Melksham; and the northern through Calne and Chippenham. The inn is a large brick building, but has a most desolate appearance, according well with the character of the gloomy downs on the margin of which it stands; yet the traveller would do well to refresh here, as there is but little accommodation for many miles beyond.

The Falmouth Mail which passes through Devizes, arrives 5.5 morning;
departs 9.20 night. The Bristol Mail which passes through Calne,
arrives 5.5 morning; departs 9.35 night.

[Sidenote: Silbury Hill.]

[B] BECKINGTON was formerly a place of much importance in the clothing business, but the decline of that trade in the west of England has much reduced the town. It was the birth-place of Thomas Beckington, an English prelate, who was one of the three appointed to draw up a code of laws in conformity with which the Wickliffites were to be proceeded against. His book against the salique law is still in the possession of the Lambeth library.

[C] BEDALE is a tolerably well built town, situated in a rich valley, which with the surrounding country is exceedingly fertile, and both corn and grass yield abundant crops. The town lies to the west of the Great; Glasgow road, about two miles from Leeming Lane. Hornby Castle, the seat of the Duke of Leeds, deserves the admiration of the tourist. Bedale church is a large and handsome edifice, and the tower is said to have been constructed with so much strength, as to enable the inhabitants to defend themselves therein, during the inroads of the Scots.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, Whit-Tuesday; June 6 and
7; July 5 and 6, for horses, cattle, sheep, leather, &c.; Oct. 11 and
12, horned cattle, sheep, hogs and leather; and Monday-week before
Christmas, for horned cattle and sheep. The Glasgow Mail arrives at
Leeming Lane, two miles distant 7.54 evening; departs 4.58
morning.--_Inns_, Black Swan, and the Swan.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Leeds.]

Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+
13|Bedburn, North to|Durham |Bis. Auckld 6|Wolsingham 4|
13|Bedburn, South to|Durham | ... 6| ... 4|
50|Beddgelart[A] pa|Caernarvon|Caernarvon 12|Bettws 7|
+--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+
13|Bedburn, North to|Durham 12| 254| 387|
13|Bedburn, South to| ... 12| 254| 296|
50|Beddgelart[A] pa|Tan-y-Bwlch 8| 223| 1071|
+--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter X: Part 10

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