Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter VIII: Part 8

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[A] BARKING, in the hundred of Beacontree. The name is derived, according to some writers, from the Saxon words Beorce--a birch tree, and Ing--a meadow; but the most natural presumption is, that it takes its name from Berging, signifying a fortification in a meadow, and which seems to be borne out, as there is an encampment still to be traced, of the most extensive dimensions, being more than forty-eight acres in the area; near to which is a spring of fine water, which no doubt supplied the inmates. In 870, Barking was burnt by the Danes, and the abbey destroyed, and the nuns either murdered or dispersed. Soon after the conquest, King William retired to this place, while the Tower of London was being erected, not deeming it safe to continue in that city; and here he was visited during the preparation for his coronation, by Earl Edwin, of Mercia; Morcar, Earl of Northumberland; and many others of the nobility, who swore fealty to him, on the restoration of their estates. It is situated on the river Roding, which branches off in two different streams, and unites with the Thames about two miles distant. Barking Creek is navigable for ships of 80 tons burden, and the coal and timber, together with the fishing trade, is carried on to a considerable extent. About a hundred fishing smacks sail from this town. Near the creek is a large flour mill, formerly belonging to the abbey; and in the vicinity of the town are extensive potatoe grounds for the supply of the London market. Barking is rather a dull town, from the want of a main thoroughfare; it has the appearance of antiquity stamped upon it, particularly the market-house, which is an extensive and ancient building of timber and plaster, of the age of Elizabeth. Here is a town-hall and work-house. A free quay for landing goods, subject to a table of regulations, and a spacious new road from the Commercial-road, through Eastham and Wallend to Barking. The church is dedicated to St. Margaret, and is a spacious ancient structure, with a lofty embattled tower at the west end, having a beacon turret at one corner. A free-school, which now occupies part of the work-house, was founded by Sir James Campbell, in 1641, who bequeathed a sum of L666. 13s. 4d. for that purpose. John Fowke, Esq., bequeathed certain lands for the maintenance of eight boys in Christ's Hospital, two of whom are chosen from this parish. The importance formerly attached to the town of Barking was almost entirely to be attributed to the magnificent abbey that was established here in the year 670, by Erkenwald, Bishop of London, for nuns of the Benedictine order: it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This abbey was governed by a succession of Abbesses, of noble, and even royal descent After the destruction of the establishment by the Danes, in the year 870, it was again rebuilt in a style of greater splendour than before, and on the death of King Edgar, in 970, his queen became Abbess. From the earliest period to the time of its dissolution, it may be said to have been a seminary for the principal gentry of England. Its revenues amounted, at the suppression of the religious houses, to L1084. 6s. 2-3/4d. Destruction has done its worst to this beautiful abbey, for at present little or nothing remains but the gateway, an interesting object, and in good preservation; over which is a room, called the Chapel of the Holy Ghost. This gateway was denominated the fire-bell gate, from its having anciently contained the curfew; it is a square embattled structure, with an octagonal turret at one of the angles. The arch of the entrance is finely pointed, and enriched with deeply receding mouldings; above is a canopied niche, under a fine gothic window of three lights. Among the ruins of the abbey were discovered a fibula, and a gold ring, on which were engraved, the Salutation of the Virgin Mary, and the initials I.M. The tyranny exercised over the tenants of this manor by the fraternity, would almost create a feeling of surprise in our present liberal and enlightened age, were they not perfectly well known in a thousand other instances. The manor of Clayhall was held under the Abbess and convent of Barking, by the following services: viz. that every tenant should come in person to the Abbey Church, on the vigil of St. Ethelburg the Virgin, and there attend and guard the high altar, from the first hours of Vespers till nine the next morning; and that he should be ready at all times, with a horse and a man, to attend the Abbess and her steward, when going upon the business of the convent, any where within the four seas. And, lastly, that the Abbess should have by way of herriot, upon the death of every tenant, his best horse and accoutrements: these services, however, did not exempt them from the quit rents. Besides the above tenure, there were other vexatious contingencies; viz. one (Robert Gerard) was among other services, to gather a full measure of nuts, called a pybot, four of which should make a bushel; to go a long journey on foot once a year to Colchester, Chelmsford, Ely, or the like distances, on the business of the convent, carrying a pack; and other shorter distances, such as Brentford, &c., and maintaining himself upon the road. He was to pay a fine upon the marriage of his daughter, if she married beyond the limits of the manor. If his daughter had an illegitimate child, he was to make the best terms he could with the Abbess, for the fine called Kyldwyte. It appears also, that he could not even sell his ox fed by himself, without the Abbess's permission. Some of the tenants, according to Blount, were obliged to watch and guard thieves in the Abbess's prison. A few miles distant, in a glade in Hainhault Forest, formerly stood an oak, famed through many centuries, and known by the name of Fairlop Oak. Its age is traced by the traditions of the country half way through the Christian era. Part of this noble tree has been converted into the pulpit of St. Pancras new church. Its rough fluted stem was 36 feet in circumference, and about a yard from the ground, divided into eleven immense arms; yet not in the horizontal manner of an oak, but rather that of a beech. Beneath its shade, which formerly overspread an area of three hundred feet in circuit, an annual fair was held on the 2nd of July, and no booth was suffered to be raised beyond the extent of its boughs. The fair is still continued on the same spot the first Friday in July.

_Market_ disused.--_Fair_, October 22, for toys. It lies within the
three-penny post delivery.

[Sidenote: Origin of its name.]

[Sidenote: Burnt by the Danes.]

[Sidenote: Once a town of importance.]

[Sidenote: Singular services by which the manor of Clayhall was held.]

[Sidenote: Fairlop oak.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+
45|Barkisland to|W.R. York|Halifax 4|Huddersfield 8|
23|Barkston pa|Leicester|Melton 12|Belvoir Cas. 4|
24|Barkstone pa|Lincoln |Grantham 4|Sleaford 9|
46|Barkstone Ash to|W.R. York|Tadcaster 6|Abberford 5|
18|Barkway to & pa|Herts |Hertford 15|Puckeridge 8|
24|Barkwith, East pa|Lincoln |Wragby 3|M. Raisin 8|
24|Barkwith, West pa|Lincoln | 3| 8|
35|Barlaston pa|Stafford |Stone 4|Newcastle 6|
38|Barlavington pa|Sussex |Petworth 5|Chichester 12|
10|Barlborough pa|Derby |Chesterfield 8|Worksop 7|
46|Barlby chap|E.R. York|Selby 2|York 13|
23|Barleston chap|Leicester|Bosworth 3|Leicester 12|
18|Barley pa|Herts |Barkway 3|Cambridge 14|
22|Barley to|Lancaster|Colne 5|Clitheroe 5|
32|Barleythorpe chap|Rutland |Oakham 2|Melton 9|
14|Barling pa|Essex |Prittlewell 5|Rochford 5|
24|Barlings pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 7|Wragby 4|
46|Barlow to|W.R. York|Selby 3|Snaith 6|
10|Barlow, Great chap|Derby |Chesterfield 4|Dronfield 3|
10|Barlow, Little to|Derby | 5| 3|
+--+-------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+
45|Barkisland to|Rochdale 13| 196| 2292|
23|Barkston pa|Bingham 7| 115| 297|
24|Barkstone pa|Folkingham 11| 114| 430|
46|Barkstone Ash to|York 15| 185| 265|
18|Barkway to & pa|Cambridge 17| 35| 1108|
24|Barkwith, East pa|Louth 12| 147| 187|
24|Barkwith, West pa| 11| 146| 113|
35|Barlaston pa|Cheadle 8| 145| 514|
38|Barlavington pa|Arundel 8| 54| 111|
10|Barlborough pa|Sheffield 17| 150| 713|
46|Barlby chap|Howden 12| 183| 348|
23|Barleston chap|Ashby 9| 109| 582|
18|Barley pa|Ware 16| 37| 704|
22|Barley to|Burnley 5| 217| 707|
32|Barleythorpe chap|Stamford 13| 96| ...|
14|Barling pa|Southend 6| 45| 317|
24|Barlings pa|Bardney 8| 140| 280|
46|Barlow to|Howden 8| 179| 225|
10|Barlow, Great chap|Sheffield 10| 154| 581|
10|Barlow, Little to| 10| 155| 58|
+--+-------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+

[A] BARMING. Of this village the learned antiquarian, Mark Noble, was rector. His principal works were a history of the College of Arms, a Genealogical History of the Royal Families of Europe, Memoirs of the Protectorate House of Cromwell; and, also, of the illustrious house of Medici. On St. Thomas's Day there is an annual solicitation for charity, and with the money raised loaves of bread are purchased, and distributed to the resident poor. Great quantities of hops, cherries, and filberts, are grown in this parish.

[Sidenote: Mark Noble.]

[B] BARMOUTH, near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach, is a village singularly situated; the houses are disposed, either among the sand, in a low situation, or at different heights on the side of a huge rock, like a part of the city of Edinburgh, and are said to resemble the town of Gibraltar. These houses form eight tiers, to which there is no approach, but by steps cut in the rock. The floors of one row are about level with the tops of the chimnies immediately in front; so that a person standing at his door may look down the chimnies of the neighbourhood below. The first range regales the second with its smoke, the second the third, &c. till we arrive at the uppermost, which, in a westerly wind, takes the mixed perfume of all. Barmouth is the port of Merionethshire, not far from which the river Mawddach has its commencement. "Proceeding along the banks of this river towards Dolgelly," says Mr. Bingley, "when it was high water, the whole bed of the river being filled, made the different landscapes in the scene appear truly picturesque. The first two miles which lay along, what the inhabitants of Barmouth call, the Beach, formed the most interesting part of the journey. In the composition of the views, scarcely any thing appeared wanting; there was every requisite of mountain and vale, wood, water, meadows, and rocks, arranged in beautiful order. Beyond the beach, the road winds at a little distance from the river, among the low mountains; and from different stations, I had views of the most elegant and picturesque landscapes, the river partly hidden by intervening mountains. This stream is much diminished in width and depth: at present it will not admit so much as a pleasure-boat to reach Dolgelly, which obliges company to walk three-quarters of a mile to the town."

[Sidenote: A very curiously built town.]

[C] BARNARD CASTLE. The castle from which the town appears to have derived its name, was founded by Barnard, son of Guy Baliol, who accompanied William the Conqueror to England, and to whom William Rufus granted the noble forests of Teesdale and Marwood. Edward the First, determined to mortify the Bishop of Durham and to abridge his power; he, therefore, gave this castle to Guy Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in whose family it continued for five generations. It afterwards came to the crown, and the tyrant Richard III. who took very great delight in this place, contributed much to its beauty by the most tasteful embellishments; his armorial bearings still appear, not only on the castle but over many parts of the town, and it has been a crown domain ever since. Hutchinson in his history of the county of Durham, describes the remains of the castle as covering about six acres and three quarters of ground. The parts which were of chief strength, stand on the very brink of a steep rock, about eighty feet above the level of the river Tees, commanding a most beautiful prospect up the river. The area on the side of the market-place, appears not to have had any communication with the chief strongholds and bulwarks of the fortress, and is separated from the interior buildings by a deep fosse which surrounds the rest of the castle. In an adjoining ground called the Flatts, is a large reservoir cut in swampy ground; water was collected and conveyed to the castle in pipes, to supply the garrison and cattle enclosed within the walls of the outer areas in times of public danger. This area is now a pasture for sheep, and other parts enclosed by the walls have been converted into orchards.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday in Easter and Whitsun Week,
St. James's Day, and July 25, for horses, cattle, and
sheep.--_Bankers_, W. Skinner and Co. draw on Barclay and
Co.--_Inns_, King's Head, and Rose and Crown.--_Mail_ arrives 6.40
morning; departs 2.40 afternoon.

[Sidenote: Guy Baliol.]

[A] BARNBROUGH. The church is dedicated to Saint Peter, and contains a rude painting commemorative of "a serious contest that took place between a man and a wild cat." This conflict, which every body in Barnbrough firmly believes, is said to have occurred about the middle of the fifteenth century, between Percival Cresacre, lord of the manor, and a wild cat o' mountain. He is reported to have been attacked in one of the little woods in the neighbourhood, by this furious animal, and a running fight was kept up till they reached the church porch, where the mortal combat ended in the death of both. That some such circumstance did occur, is conjectured from the crest which the family afterwards adopted, viz. a cat o' mountain, which is still to be seen on the tower of the church; and the tradition is said to be further confirmed by the figure of an animal at the foot of the oak statue of this Cresacre, and also a rubiginous stone in the pavement of the porch of the church. We have many evidences in history that cats were beasts of chase, particularly in the charter of Ranulph Piperking, granted by Edward the Confessor:--

Hart and hind, doe and bock,
Fox and cat, hare and brock.

and again,

Four greyhounds and six raches,
For hare and fox and wild cates.

In the church is an ancient monument of Alicia Cresacre, wife of the above gentleman, who died in 1450, on which is carved in old text:--

Our bodys in stonys lye full still,
Our saulys in wandyr at Godys will.

In the north chancel is the monument of Percival Cresacre, a richly decorated altar-tomb under a flat arch, at the crown of which is the family arms, viz. three lions rampant, purple, on a gold shield. The effigies of Cresacre is in fine preservation, composed of carved oak, and representing a knight in a suite of plate armour, with his arms painted on a shield, and an animal (supposed to be a lion) at his feet. His sword which hung from his belt has been taken away, and both monuments are decorated with the favorite device of the family, a rosary of beads.

[Sidenote: Contest between the lord of the manor and a wild cat.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From |
+--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+
30|Barnby-in-Willows pa|Nottingham|Newark 4|Lincoln 16|
37|Barnes pa|Surrey |Kingston 6|Chiswick 2|
37|Barn-Elms[A] ham|Surrey | ... 6| ... 2|
+--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+
30|Barnby-in-Willows pa|Grantham 14| 124| 237|
37|Barnes pa|Wandsworth 3| 5|1417|
37|Barn-Elms[A] ham| ... 3| 5| |
+--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+

[A] BARN-ELMS. On the adjoining common stood the house in which the members of the celebrated Kit Cat Club assembled. Their original place of meeting was in London, but Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, who was their secretary, caused it to be transferred to a house belonging to himself, at Barn-Elms, and built a handsome room for their accommodation. The portrait of each member was painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, but the apartment not being sufficiently large to receive half-length pictures, a shorter canvas was adopted, and hence proceeded the technical term of Kit Cat size. We give a further account of this club from the graphic pen of Sir Richard Phillips, in his "Morning's Walk from London to Kew," 1817. "A lane in the north-west corner of the common brought me to Barn-Elms, where now resides a Mr. Hoare, a banker, of London. The family were from home, and I had some difficulty to gain admittance, the servants knowing nothing either of the club, or its former occupant. A walk covered with docks, thistles, nettles, and high grass, led from the remains of a gateway in the garden wall to the door which opened into the building. Ah! thought I, through this desolate avenue, the finest geniuses in England daily proceeded to meet their friends. Yet, within a century, how changed--how deserted--how revolting! A cold chill seized me as the man unfastened the decayed door, and I beheld the once elegant hall filled with cobwebs, a fallen ceiling, and accumulating rubbish. The door on the left led to a spacious, and once superb, staircase--now in ruins. The entire building, for want of ventilation, having become food for the fungus, called dry-rot, the timbers had lost its cohesive powers. I ascended the staircase, therefore, with a degree of danger to which my conductor would not expose himself, but was well requited for my pains. Here I found the Kit-Cat Club-room, nearly as it existed in the days of its glory. It is 18 feet high, and 40 feet long, by 20 wide. The mouldings and ornaments were in the most superb fashion of its age, but the whole was falling to pieces from the effects of the dry-rot. My attention was chiefly attracted by the faded cloth-hangings of the room, whose red colour once set off the famous portraits of the club that hung around it. Their marks and sizes were still visible, and their numbers and names remained, as written in chalk for the guidance of the hanger. Thus was I, as it were, brought into contact with Addison and Steele, and Congreve, and Garth, and Dryden, and with many hereditary nobles, remembered only because they were patrons of those natural nobles. I read their names aloud--I invoked their departed spirits--I was appalled by the echo of my own voice. The holes in the floor, the forest of cobwebs in the windows, and a swallow's nest in the corner of the ceiling, proclaimed that I was viewing a vision of the dreamers of a past age; that I saw realized before me the speaking vanities of the anxious career of man. On rejoining Mr. Hoare's servant in the hall below, he informed me that his master intended to pull the building down, and form of it a riding-house. I learn that this design has since been executed. The Kit-Cat pictures were painted early in the eighteenth century, and about the year 1710 were brought to this spot, but the room I have been describing was not built till ten or fifteen years afterwards. They were 42 in number, and are now in the possession of a Mr. Baker, of Hertingford-bury, where I lately saw them splendidly lodged, and in fine preservation. It may be proper to observe, that the house of Mr. Hoare was not the house of Mr. Tonson, and that Mr. Tonson's house stood nearer to the Kit-Cat club-rooms, having a few years since been taken down." A person died in this place, leaving in his will an annual sum, to be laid out in roses to be planted on his grave. The spot is distinguished by a stone tablet on the outside of the wall of the church, enclosed by pales, with some rose-trees planted on each side of it. This tablet is dedicated to the memory of Edward Rose, citizen of London, who died in 1653, and left L20. to the poor of Barnes, for the purchase of an acre of land, on condition that the pales should be kept up, and the rose-trees preserved.

[Sidenote: Kit Cat Club house.]

[Sidenote: As described by Sir Richard Phillips in 1817.]

[A] BARNET. This small busy town occupies an elevated situation on the high north road; and near this place was fought, in the year 1471, the famous battle between the houses of York and Lancaster, which terminated in the death of the Earl of Warwick, and established King Edward the Fourth upon the throne. An obelisk was erected by Sir Jeremy Sambrook, in memory of the battle in the year 1740. In the church is an altar monument in commemoration of Thomas Ravensworth, Esquire, whose effigy, in a recumbent position, is represented on the tomb in veined marble. He died in 1630. Several others of his family are also buried here; and among these, James, his eldest son, who erected and endowed an alms-house, or hospital in Barnet, "for six poor ancient women, being widows or maidens, inhabitants of the town; and neither common beggars, common drunkards, back-biters, tale-bearers, common scolds, thieves or other like persons of infamous life, or evil name or repute; or vehemently suspected of sorcerie, witchcraft, or charming, or guilty of perjury: nor any ideot or lunatic are admitted." The annual value of the original endowment is now about L45.; besides which, the trustees have a further income of L30. annually, arising from other sources. Another alms-house for six poor widows, was built and endowed about the year 1723, under the will of John Garrett, Gent., who bequeathed L800. for that purpose. Near the race ground, on Barnet Common, is a mineral spring, of a mild purgative nature, that was discovered about the middle of the 17th century, and was formerly in much repute. A few years ago a subscription was made for arching it over and erecting a pump. The town is at present governed by a presiding magistrate, a high constable and subordinate officers. The inhabitants of this township enjoy a very extensive common right over the adjoining wastes and chace. Between Barnet and South Mims, an extensive improvement has been effected in the road, which was a series of angular turnings and unnecessary hills, to an extent which renders it surprising how such glaring imperfections were suffered to exist, when a sufficiently direct line could be obtained.

_Market_, Monday. _Fairs_ April 8, 9, 10, linen drapery, mercery,
toys, &c. The harvest fair or Welsh fair, September 4, 5, Welsh
cattle and horses; Sept. 6, mercery, &c. and sometimes a few horses,
pigs, &c. The Leeds Mail arrives 9.11 evening, departs 7.48 evening.
The Glasgow mail arrives 9.20 evening; departs 4.18 morning. _Inns_,
Duke of Wellington, Green Man, and Red Lion.

[Sidenote: Battle between the houses of York and Lancaster.]

[Sidenote: Mineral spring.]

[B] BARNET, (Friern). John Walker, the author of a celebrated dictionary, was a native of this place, and was born in the year 1732. About the year 1767, he joined with a Mr. Usher in setting up a school at Kensington; this speculation not succeeding he removed to London, where he gave lectures on elocution. It is said that in his early youth he studied the art, intending to make the stage his profession, although his very questionable success induced him to adopt another pursuit. Mr. Walker was an amiable as well as a learned man; he was the author of several elementary works: such as "The Rhetorical Grammar," "Elements of Elocution," "Key to the correct pronunciation of Greek, Latin, and Scriptural names," and a "Rhyming Dictionary." He died at his house in Tottenham Court Road, August 1, 1807. This parish includes the hamlet of Colney Hatch, half of Whetstone, and a part of Finchley Common.

[Sidenote: Birth place of Walker, author of the pronouncing dictionary.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+
7|Barnhill ham|Chester |Chester 10|Tarporley 8|
36|Barningham pa|Suffolk |Ixworth 5|Botesdale 7|
44|Barningham pa & to|N.R. York |Greta Bridge 2|Richmond 10|
27|Barningham, Little pa|Norfolk |Aylsham 6|Holt 6|
27|Barningham pa|Norfolk | 8| 5|
27|Barningham Winter pa|Norfolk | 6| 7|
24|Barnoldby-le-Beck pa|Lincoln |Grimsby 6|Caistor 8|
45|Barnoldswick pa & to|W.R. York |Colne 5|Skipton 6|
7|Barnsham to|Chester |Knutsford 6|Middlewich 7|
15|Barnsley pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 4|Burford 13|
45|Barnsley[A] m.t. & to|W.R. York |York 39|Rotherham 13|
11|Barnstaple[B] bo.& mt|Devon |Exeter 38|S. Molton 12|
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+
7|Barnhill ham|Malpas 4| 172| |
36|Barningham pa|Thetford 9| 82| 514|
44|Barningham pa & to|Barnard Cas. 5| 238| 550|
27|Barningham, Little pa|Cromer 8| 119| 227|
27|Barningham pa| 5| 121| 42|
27|Barningham Winter pa| 8| 120| 114|
24|Barnoldby-le-Beck pa|Louth 16| 165| 232|
45|Barnoldswick pa & to|Clitheroe 10| 223| 2724|
7|Barnsham to|Congleton 8| 170| |
15|Barnsley pa|Fairford 6| 86| 318|
45|Barnsley[A] m.t. & to|Hudderfield 17| 172| 10330|
11|Barnstaple[B] bo.& mt|Ilfracomb 10| 193| 6840|
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+

[A] BARNSLEY. This large market town is built chiefly of stone, but being surrounded by coal pits and iron works, the smoke from which obscures the air, it is generally known by the name of Black Barnsley. The black glass bottles made here are of excellent quality, and the manufacture of linen is carried on to a great extent. Here also is made the best wire in the kingdom for needles. The town is seated on the side of a hill; the trade and population have considerably increased since the completion of the navigable canal, by means of which communications are opened with Wakefield, and all parts of the kingdom. The land in the vicinity of this town is highly distinguished for its fertility; the manor is possessed by the Duke of Leeds.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday before Feb. 28, horned
cattle and swine; May 12, ditto; October 10, ditto, horses, and
cheese.--_Mail_ arrives 2.55 afternoon; departs 11.31
night.--_Bankers_, Becket and Co., draw on Glyn and Co.--_Inns_,
King's Head, and White Bear.

[Sidenote: The trade.]

[B] BARNSTAPLE is said to derive its name from Bar, which in the ancient British signified the mouth of a river; and the Saxon word Staple, a mart. It is situated in the hundred of Braunton, and returns two members to parliament. The town appears to have been incorporated by Henry I., yet it retains some traces of feudal jurisdiction; a number of common burgesses claiming a right to vote with the corporate officers for members of parliament. The L10. householders are about 607; the returning officer is the mayor, who with two bailiffs, two aldermen, twenty-two common councilmen, and other officers form the corporation. Barnstaple is one of the neatest and most respectable towns in the county; it lies on the eastern bank of the river Taw, in a broad and fertile vale, bounded by a semi-circular range of hills. The Taw here spreads to a considerable breadth, but from the great accumulation of sand, the port is shallow, and vessels of more than 200 tons are not able to enter. Over the river is a bridge of sixteen arches, which is said to have been built by one of the Tracys, at the time that family were lords of the manor. The streets are spacious and regular, and the buildings generally good. The town, indeed, boasts some of the marks of a metropolis; there are balls every fortnight, and a regular theatre, and nothing but a good pavement is wanted to make it highly agreeable. A noble quay extends some way along the river, terminated by a handsome piazza, over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen Anne, with an inscription, testifying to the loyalty of Robert Rolle, of Stevenstone, in this county, the erector. The woollen trade formerly carried on here with considerable spirit, greatly increased the wealth of the town, and enabled its inhabitants to erect a number of very respectable houses: this trade has of late failed, but the manufacture of baize, silk stockings and waistcoat pieces, still gives life to the place. Besides this source of wealth and population, the beauty of the surrounding country, and the cheapness of provisions, have induced many respectable families to reside here entirely; a circumstance which renders Barnstaple the most genteel town in the north of Devon. Here is a celebrated Grammar School, which has been founded about three centuries, and is famous for having educated a number of distinguished men; among whom were John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury: his Theological antagonist, Thomas Harding, Professor at Louvain: the poet Gay, and the learned Dr. Musgrave. Bishop Jewel was a learned divine, who lived in the reigns of the last sovereigns of the house of Tudor, and was born near Ilfracombe, in 1522. Having acquired the rudiments of his learning in this school, he was removed to Merton College, Oxford. He was a most zealous and able champion of the Christian faith; and was indefatigable in the pursuit of knowledge, even at the expense of his health, which was materially injured by the closeness of his application. About the year 1551, he obtained the rectory of Sunningwell, in Berkshire, where he was much beloved for his zeal and assiduity as a parish priest. When Queen Mary succeeded her brother Edward, Jewel was deprived of an office he held in the university; and, notwithstanding he subscribed to a confession of faith drawn up by the Catholics, yet suspicions were entertained of his sincerity, and fearing he should be prosecuted as an heretic, he withdrew from Oxford, and made his escape to the continent. On the death of Queen Mary, Jewel returned to England, and was received very favorably by Queen Elizabeth, who raised him to the bishoprick of Salisbury, in the year 1560. From this time until the day of his death, he was principally engaged in his pastoral duties, and in the defence and support of the Protestant faith. He died September 1571. The admirable moralist and poet, Gay, was also educated in this school; he was the composer of "The Beggar's Opera," the notion of which appears to have been afforded by Swift. The purpose of this singular performance, was to bring into ridicule the Italian Opera, and it is not easy to define the mixture of pathos and ridicule which distinguishes this remarkable production. His celebrated "Fables," written for the instruction of the Duke of Cumberland, have been the means of unqualified delight to millions. His first poem, entitled "Rural Sports," and dedicated to Mr. Pope, gained him the friendship of that poet. The year following he was appointed Secretary to the Duchess of Monmouth: at this time he printed his "Trivia," in the composition of which he was assisted by Swift. He died of an inflammation of the bowels, in 1732, (sincerely lamented by all who knew him,) and was buried in Westminster Abbey, where his monument exhibits an epitaph by Pope, which is written with tasteful tenderness.

_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, September 19; Friday before April 21;
second Friday in December, for cattle. These are considerable fairs,
but are called great markets, as there is no charter to hold fairs on
those days.--_Mail_ arrives 7.0 morning; departs 5.0
afternoon.--_Bankers_, Pyke, Law and Co.; draw on Barclay and Co.;
Drake and Co. draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Fortescue Arms; Golden
Lion; Kings Arms.

[Sidenote: Incorporated by Henry I.]

[Sidenote: Amusements, &c.]

[Sidenote: Eminent men educated here.]

[Sidenote: Gay, the Poet, born here.]

[A] BARNWELL derives its name from some wells, which in the age of superstition, were widely famed for the miraculous cures they performed in diseases of children. Sacred veneration was at length paid them, and pilgrims from distant parts resorted hither to adore the spirit which infused such wonderful virtues into the waters. A castle was erected here in the reign of Henry I., by Reginald le Moine, and became afterwards the baronial residence of the family of the Montagues. The remains of this once magnificent structure consist of four circular massy bastion towers, each forming an angle of a quadrangular court, inclosed by walls three feet thick; the grand gateway on the south side is flanked by similar towers. The whole forms a fine and curious ruin, and is a rare specimen of the early Norman castellated form of building.

[A] GREAT BARR is an agreeable village, which has long been the property of the Scott family, who have here one of the finest mansions in the county. This seat stands in a beautiful valley, affording the most delightful prospects of hill and dale, varied by wood and water. Shady walks and rustic seats furnish the most attractive conveniences for the promenade. One object in particular fixes the attention; it is an urn near the flower garden, to the memory of Miss Mary Dolman, the cousin of Shenstone, whose elegant pen supplied a beautiful tribute in Latin. The summit of Barr Beacon, which is 653 feet in height, was the spot from whence the Druids gave notice, by watch-fires, of their periodical sacrifices; and it was used both by the Saxons and the Danes, as a beacon to alarm the country in times of danger. The chapel of the village is of remarkable beauty; its eastern window contains a painting on glass by Mr. Eginton, who has improved upon the design of the Rev. Mr. Peter's "Spirit of a Child."

[Sidenote: Barr Beacon, 653 feet high.]

[B] GREAT BARRINGTON is a parish containing about 1000 acres, including some portion of Oxfordshire within its limits, as well as a small tract belonging to Berkshire. Previous to the conquest, the manor was held by Earl Harold; the present owner is Lord Dynevor, Lord Lieut. and Cust. Rot. of Carmarthen. Barrington church appears to have been erected about the time of Henry VII. Beneath one of the windows of the aisle are the monument and effigies of Captain Edward Bray, grandfather of Sir Giles Bray, lord of the manor, who is represented in armour, with a ruff round his neck and a sword girt on the "right" side. This peculiarity originated from the captain having killed a man at Tilbury camp; and, in token of his sorrow, he determined never more to use his right hand. Lord Chancellor Talbot was buried in this church; he was the son of William Talbot, Bishop of Durham, and was born in the year 1684. After being elected a fellow of All Soul's College, Oxford, he married, and consequently was compelled to give up his fellowship. When he left the university, he was admitted a member of the society of Lincoln's Inn, and was speedily called to the bar. He was chosen to represent the now disfranchised borough of Tregony, in Cornwall, and afterwards was made member for the city of Durham. He died in the enjoyment of the highest character, after a short illness, on the 14th of February, 1737. Few Chancellors have been more lamented, both in public and private life. Lord Talbot acquired universal esteem. The Hall was built by him in the year 1734, soon after which it was destroyed by fire. The grounds furnish a good specimen of the "ferme ornee," (ornamental farm) and the park, about three miles in circumference, is well planted with a variety of beautiful trees.

[Sidenote: Capt. Edward Bray.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+
33|Barrow pa|Salop |M. Wenlock 4|Bridgenorth 6|
36|Barrow pa|Suffolk |Bury 6|Newmarket 9|
34|Barrow-Gourney pa|Somerset |Bristol 5|Axbridge 12|
7|Barrow, Great pa & to|Chester |Chester 6|Northwich 13|
24|Barrow-on-Humber pa|Lincoln |Barton 3|Grimsby 17|
34|Barrow, North pa|Somerset |Castle Carey 3|Ilchester 8|
34|Barrow, South pa|Somerset |... 4|... 7|
23|Barrow-on-Soar[A] pa & to|Leicester|Mount Sorrel 2|Loughboro' 3|
24|Barrowby pa|Lincoln |Grantham 2|Newark 12|
32|Barrowden pa|Rutland |Uppingham 6|Stamford 8|
22|Barrowford to|Lancaster|Colne 2|Clitheroe 5|
54|Barry pa|Glamorgan|Cardiff 9|Cowbridge 7|
54|Barry Isle[B] Isle|Glamorgan|... 9|... 8|
+--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+
33|Barrow pa|Broseley 2| 146| 351|
36|Barrow pa|Mildenhall 9| 69| 856|
34|Barrow-Gourney pa|Pensford 7| 120| 279|
7|Barrow, Great pa & to|Tarporley 5| 183| 436|
24|Barrow-on-Humber pa|Brigg 11| 167| 1334|
34|Barrow, North pa|Wincanton 8| 116| 150|
34|Barrow, South pa| ... 9| 117| 139|
23|Barrow-on-Soar[A] pa & to|Leicester 9| 107| 6254|
24|Barrowby pa|Colterswor 10| 112| 687|
32|Barrowden pa|Oakham 8| 92| 485|
22|Barrowford to|Burnley 6| 216| 2633|
54|Barry pa|Llandaff 9| 169| 72|
54|Barry Isle[B] Isle| ... 9| 169| ...|
+--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BARROW. This large and pleasant village appears to have taken its name from an ancient tumulus. It is occupied principally by gentlemen farmers, many of whom, however, derive great profit from the quantities of lime which they get up and burn. This village having been for many centuries celebrated for a hard blue stone, similar to that in the vale of Belvoir, and when calcined, produces a very fine matter, from which is prepared a particularly hard, firm, and greatly esteemed cement. Various fossil remains are found amongst the limestone. One of the petrifactions, still preserved at Cambridge, with Dr. Woodward's fossils, is a plain and bold representation of a flat-fish, about twelve inches long. Mr. Jones, in his "Philosophical Disquisitions," notices it by saying, that "our country hath lately afforded what I apprehend to be the greatest curiosity of the sort that ever appeared. It is the entire figure of a bream, more than a foot in length, and of a proportionable depth, with the scales, fins, and gills, fairly projecting from the surface, like a sculpture in relievo, and with all the lineaments, even to the most minute fibres of the tail, so complete, that the like was never seen before." Dr. William Beveridge, one of the most learned prelates of the English church, was born here in the year 1638. At St. John's College, Cambridge, he applied himself with intense application to the study of oriental literature. He reviewed the Hebrew, Chaldee, Syriac, Arabic, and Samaritan tongues, and produced a Syriac grammar. He was raised to the see of St. Asaph, in the year 1704, but he enjoyed his new dignity for a short period,--his death took place in the year 1708. In his divinity he was Calvinistic; from the simplicity and piety of his character, he was beloved by all parties. He lies buried in St. Paul's Cathedral.

[Sidenote: Superior lime quarries.]

[Sidenote: The pious Beveridge born here.]

[B] BARRY ISLAND, the name of which has been thought to have been derived from St. Baroche, a hermit, who, according to Cressy, died here in the year 700. This island, which lets for about L80. a year, is estimated to contain about 300 acres. In Leland's time there was, in the middle of it, a "fair little chapel used," but there was no dwelling. Since that period, however, a house has been erected for the residence of a farmer, which, in the summer, is converted into a boarding-house, for the reception of sea-bathers. The family of Giraldus de Barri, are said to have taken their title from this island, of which they were once lords. "It is remarkable," observes Giraldus, "that in a rock near the entrance of the island, there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear is applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at work--the blowing of bellows, strokes of hammers, grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces; and it might easily have been imagined, that such noises which are continued at the ebb and flow of the tides, were occasioned by the influx of the sea under the cavities of the rocks." Sir Richard Hoare, in his additions to Giraldus, observes as follows:--"Towards the southern part of the island, on a spot called Nell's Point, is a fine well, to which great numbers of women resort on Holy Thursday, and, having washed their eyes at the spring, each drops a pin into it. The landlord of the boarding-house told me, that on clearing out the well he took out a pint full of these votive offerings." On the main land, opposite the western extremity of the island, lies the village of Barry, near which are some remains of the castle. A few miles north-westward from Barry are the remains of Penmark castle, anciently the property of Sir Gilbert Humphreville, one of the followers of Fitzhamon. Llancarvan, in this vicinity, was once the seat of a religious house, said to have been founded by Cadoc the Wise, in the 6th century. Llancarvan is also distinguished as the birth-place of Caradoc, the Welsh annalist, who compiled a history of the Principality, from the abdication of Cadwaladyr, 686, to his own time. Tref Walter, or Walterston, in this parish, was the residence of Walter de Mapes, a writer of some note towards the middle of the 12th century. He was Archdeacon of Oxford, and Chaplain to Henry I. He built the church of Llancarvan, a large substantial edifice, and the village of Walterston, with a mansion for himself. His literary labours comprise a translation of the British Chronicle into Latin, and a Welsh version of Geoffrey of Monmouth's fabulous paraphrase of the same work. He wrote also a Treatise on Agriculture in the Welsh language.

[Sidenote: Remarkable noises heard here.]

[Sidenote: Curious custom.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+
36|Barsham pa|Suffolk |Beccles 3|Bungay 5|
27|Barsham, (East) pa|Norfolk |Fakenham 3|Walsingham 3|
27|Barsham, (North) pa|Norfolk |Walsingham 2|Wells 6|
27|Barsham, (West) pa|Norfolk |Fakenham 3|Walsingham 3|
39|Barston pa|Warwick |Warwick 12|Coventry 9|
17|Bartestree chap|Hereford |Hereford 5|Bromyard 14|
7|Bartherton to|Chester |Nantwich 2|Whitchurch 10|
21|Bartholomew lib.|Kent |Canterbury 13|Deal 7|
7|Barthomley[A] pa & to|Chester |Sandbach 7|Newcastle 7|
7|Bartington to|Chester |Northwick 4|Warrington 8|
6|Bartlow[B] pa|Cambridge|Linton 2|Haverhill 6|
14|Bartlow End ham|Essex | 3| 6|
4|Barton ham|Berks |Oxford 6|E. Illsley 9|
6|Barton pa|Cambridge|Cambridge 4|Caxton 8|
7|Barton to|Chester |Chester 10|Malpas 7|
+--+---------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
36|Barsham pa|Halesworth 9| 109| 182|
27|Barsham, (East) pa|Burnham M. 10| 102| 219|
27|Barsham, (North) pa|Fakenham 4| 113| 84|
27|Barsham, (West) pa|Creek 4| 112| 101|
39|Barston pa|Birmingham 13| 100| 342|
17|Bartestree chap|Ledbury 12| 132| 50|
7|Bartherton to|Audlem 4| 163| 34|
21|Bartholomew lib.|Ramsgate 6| 68| 61|
7|Barthomley[A] pa & to|Nantwich 11| 157| 449|
7|Bartington to|Knutsford 7| 177| 76|
6|Bartlow[B] pa|Saff. Walden 6| 48| 106|
14|Bartlow End ham| 5| 47| 205|
4|Barton ham|Dorchester 7| 56| 14|
6|Barton pa|Royston 12| 49| 273|
7|Barton to|Tarporley 12| 175| 168|
+--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BARTHOMLEY contains several townships. The nave of the church has a richly carved wooden roof, dated 1589. On the 22d of December, 1643, a troop of Lord Byron's passing through the village, made an attack upon this venerable edifice, into which several of the inhabitants had gone for safety; they soon got possession of it, and having set fire to the forms, rushes, and mats, made such a smoke that the men who had retreated into the steeple were obliged to call for quarter, but their assailants having got them into their power, are said to have stripped them all, and most cruelly murdered twelve of them in cold blood, three only being suffered to escape. A free school was founded here, in the year 1676, by the Rev. Mr. Steele, in which ten children are educated. In the year 1787, Mrs. Mary, Mrs. Margaret, and Mrs. Judith Alsager, ladies of the manor, obtained an Act of Parliament to enable them to finish a new church, or chapel, to be called Christ's Church, or Chapel, in that township. The same ladies built a school-house, and founded a school there, for the education of children of both sexes.

[Sidenote: Cruel murder.]

[B] BARTLOW. Near this place, are four contiguous barrows, known by the name of Bartlow Hills, from their situation with respect to Bartlow Church. These are vulgarly, though erroneously, regarded as the tumuli raised over the slain in the battle fought between Edmund Ironside and the Danish King, Canute, in the year 1016. It is evident, indeed, from our account of Ashington, at page 50, that the place of action should be sought for, rather in the vicinity of the sea than at the northern extremity of the county. Camden states, that these stone coffins, with broken human bones in them, were found in one of these barrows; and Hollingshead affirms, that two bodies were found in one stone coffin. Mr. Gough remarks, that we do not find the use of stone coffins amongst the northern nations in their Pagan state; and the Danes were not converted until long after the time of Canute. The origin of these barrows, therefore, cannot now be traced.

[A] BARTON. Stockbridge Hall, an ancient edifice, was the seat of the Lancasters, whose arms are yet seen on the ceiling of the dining-room, and who continued here through twelve generations, when their estates fell to the Lowthers. The church, which is a low and extensive building, with a heavy tower between the chancel and the nave, contains the tomb of one of the Lancasters; some escutcheons of several families in the neighbourhood, and a brass plate, on which is this remarkable epitaph:--

"Under this stone, reader, interred doth lie,
Beauty and virtue's true epitomy.
At her appearance the noone sun
Blushed and shrunk in, 'cause quite undone.
In her concentered did all graces dwell;
God plucked my rose that he might take a smell.
I'll say no more, but weeping, wish I may,
Soone with thy dear chaste ashes come to lay."

The lady thus extravagantly eulogised, was Frances, the wife of Launcelot Dawes; she died in 1673. Barton school was founded in 1641, by four priests, natives of this parish.

[Sidenote: Remarkable epitaph.]

[B] BARTON. Near this village is a large stone, called Four-shire stone, from its forming the point of junction of the four counties of Gloucester, Worcester, Warwick, and Oxford. Here once resided an attorney of so pacific a disposition that he usually acted as mediator when disputes arose. This anomalous person, named Dover, instituted the annual festivities termed Cotswold Games, and was for forty years their chief supporter. These diversions were celebrated upon the Cotswold Hills, in Gloucestershire, and prodigious multitudes are said to have resorted to them. They consisted of wrestling, cudgel-playing, leaping, pitching the bar, throwing the sledge, tossing the pike, with various other feats of strength and activity. A castle of boards was erected on this occasion, from which guns were frequently discharged. Dover received permission from James I. to hold these sports, and he appeared at their celebration in the very clothes which that monarch had formerly worn; but it is said there was much more dignity in his form and aspect. John Heywood, the epigramatist, speaking of these games, says--

"He fometh like a bore, the beaste should seem bold,
For he is as fierce as a lyon of Cotsolde."

[Sidenote: Cotswold games.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+------------------------+-----------+---------------+-------------+
24|Barton[A] m.t.|Lincoln |Hull 7|Brigg 11|
22|Barton on Irwell to|Lancaster |Manchester 6|Newton 14|
36|Barton, Little pa|Suffolk |Mildenhall 1|Newmarket 9|
44|Barton, St. Mary, chap|N.R. York |Darlington 5|Richmond 7|
35|Barton chap|Stafford |Burton on Tr. 5|Lichfield 9|
28|Barton Segrave pa|Northamp. |Kettering 2|Thrapston 8|
16|Barton Stacey pa|Hants. |Whitchurch 6|Andover 6|
31|Barton Steeple[B] pa|Oxford |Deddington 5|Woodstock 7|
15|Barton Street ham|Gloucester |Gloucester 1|Cheltenham 9|
43|Barton in Street pa|N.R. York |New Malton 5|Pickering 5|
27|Barton Turf pa|Norfolk |Coltishall 5|Worstead 4|
31|Barton Westcott pa|Oxford |Enstone 4|Woodstock 7|
43|Barton in the Willows, t|N.R. York |York 10|New Malton 8|
45|Barugh to|W.R. York |Barnsley 3|Wakefield 9|
43|Barugh, Gt. & Little pa|N.R. York |Pickering 3|New Malton 5|
23|Barwell pa|Leicester |Hinckley 2|M. Bosworth 7|
14|Barwick pa|Essex |Chipp. Ongar 6|Dunmow 8|
34|Barwick pa|Somerset |Yeovil 2|Sherborne 6|
41|Barwick Basset pa|Wilts |Calne 7|Swindon 8|
+--+-----------------------+------------+---------------+-------------+
|Dist.|Popul
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|-ation.
+--+------------------------+---------------------------+-----+-------+
24|Barton[A] m.t.|Lincoln 34| 167| 3231|
22|Barton on Irwell to|Warrington 14| 185| 8976|
36|Barton, Little pa|Bury 12| 70| 591|
44|Barton, St. Mary, chap|Barnard Cas. 14| 238| ...|
35|Barton chap|Abbotts Brom 8| 130| 1344|
28|Barton Segrave pa|Wellingboro 8| 75| 203|
16|Barton Stacey pa|Winchester 9| 62| 626|
31|Barton Steeple[B] pa|Charlbury 9| 63| 606|
15|Barton Street ham||Ross 17| 103| 786|
43|Barton in Street pa|Helmsley 10| 222| 436|
27|Barton Turf pa|Norwich 13| 121| 391|
31|Barton Westcott pa|Deddington 5| 64| 258|
43|Barton in the Willows, t|Sutton 10| 206| 202|
45|Barugh to|Huddersfield 14| 175| 946|
43|Barugh, Gt. & Little pa|Scarborough 18| 223| 294|
23|Barwell pa|Leicester 11| 101| 1505|
14|Barwick pa|Chelmsford 10| 27| 97|
34|Barwick pa|Crewkherne 8| 123| 415|
41|Barwick Basset pa|Marlborough 8| 83| 164|
+--+-----------------------+------------+---------------+-----+-------+

[A] BARTON. This ancient town is pleasantly situated about three-quarters of a mile from the southern bank of the Humber. It was formerly surrounded by a rampart and fossee, the remains of which are still discernable. It was doubtless a place of great strength before the conquest, and served as a barrier against the irruptions of the Saxons and Danes. At the period of the conquest it was a principal port of the Humber, and until the rise of Kingston-upon-Hull it enjoyed an extensive commerce. At present its derives its principal consequence from being the point whence the communication with the Lincoln road is continued across the Humber to Hull, a distance of about six miles and a half.

_Market_, Monday.--_Fair_, Trinity Thursday, for cattle.--_Mail_
arrives 3.0 afternoon; departs 11.15 morning--_Inn_, The Waterside
Inn.

[Sidenote: Once a place of importance.]

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter VIII: Part 8

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