Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter XII: Part 12

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[A] BELCHAMP, or Belchamp Wallers, in the hundred of Hinckford, lies north-east by north from Castle Headingham. The church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is lofty and neat, and contains an orchestra, with a fine toned organ. Here is a capacious vault which belongs to the Raymond family; and an elegant marble monument dedicated to them in the chancel. Mrs. Raymond has established in this village a Sunday school for fifty children belonging to the poor. Belchamp Hall, in this parish, is the residence of the Raymond's, one of whose ancestors came into England with the Conqueror, and whose family have resided in this neighbourhood upwards of two centuries. The house is a substantial and commodious building, whose principal or south-eastern front is for the most part composed of foreign bricks. It is situated on a pleasant lawn, sloping gradually to a small river, within 200 yards of the front. A spacious and extensive terrace, skirted with lofty trees, at the end of which is an ancient building, ornamented with painted glass, lies to the south. At the other end is a lofty mount, with another ornamental building on its summit. This mansion contains an interesting collection of pictures by some of the most esteemed masters; among them are the following:--The Wise Men's Offering, an altar-piece; Albert Durer. This picture, with a large gun, some pistols, and powder flasks, inlaid with gold and ivory, were presented to the Raymonds, by Sir William Harris, a sea-officer, who took them, with other property, on the defeat of the Spanish Armada, in 1588. A three-quarter portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton, Bart., in whose public spirit the New river originated, and another of his wife, are both by Cornelius Jansen. Goldingham Hall, in the parish of Bulmer, adjoining Belchamp, was the residence of Sir Hugh.

[Sidenote: Belchamp Hall.]

[B] BELFORD is a little market town pleasantly situated on the side of a hill about two miles from the river Lear, and being a post-town, and on the great north road, has several good inns. The buildings in general are neat, and the church is a handsome structure, erected in 1700. Near this place on a rising ground, are the ruins of an ancient chapel, surrounded by several tall oaks; and at a little distance, are the remains of a Danish camp, apparently of great strength, surrounded by a deep ditch. The annual races formerly run at Beadnall, now take place at this town.

_Market_, Tuesday--_Fairs_, Tuesday before Whit-Sunday, and August
23, for black cattle, sheep, and horses. The Edinburgh Mail arrives
7.49 morning; departs 3.36 afternoon.--_Inn_, Blue Bell.

[C] BELLEAU. At this place, which takes it name from the excellent springs that issue from the chalk hills in the neighbourhood, are the ruins of what is called the Abbey. These consist of part of a turret, and two gateways, which convey an idea of its being a place of considerable importance. The walls are covered with ivy, and overhung with lofty ash trees. After the civil war, this place was granted to the eccentric Sir Harry Vane, who used to amuse himself on Sundays in assembling here his country neighbours, to whom he addressed his pious discourses. The church of Belleau is said, by Gough, to have been attached to the neighbouring monastery of Ailby; but neither Tanner nor the Monasticon mention such a religious house.

[Sidenote: Abbey Ruins.]

[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family, since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland. The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still remains. Its roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fair_, Saturday after September 15, for cattle,
sheep, linen and woollen cloth.

[Sidenote: Chipchase Castle.]

[B] BELPER, or Belpar, anciently Beaupoire, is situated on the banks of the Derwent, in the hundred of Appletree. It is a chapelry of Duffield; and, though formerly an inconsiderable village, its population now exceeds, with the exception of Derby, every other town in the county. The great increase of population began from three large cotton mills of Messrs. Strutts, the first of which was erected in 1776. Two of them yet remain; but the third was destroyed by fire early in the year 1803. The largest of these mills is 200 feet long, 300 feet wide, and six stories high: it is considered fire proof, as the floor is built on brick arches, and paved with brick. The two water-wheels, which are employed in the machinery in this building, are remarkable for magnitude and singularity of construction; one of them being 40 feet long, and 18 in diameter; and the other 48 feet long, and 12 feet in diameter. As timber could not be procured large enough to form the axles of these wheels in the common manner, they are constructed circularly and hollow, of a number of pieces, and hooped in the manner of a cask. One of the shafts is six feet in diameter, and the other nine. The shuttles are constructed in one piece, so as to support the lateral pressure of the water, although it is ten feet deep, by resting one upon another. This is different from the usual mode of construction, in which they are supported by large perpendicular beams at every six or seven feet, in order to sustain this lateral pressure. About twelve or thirteen hundred people are employed at these mills; and the proprietors have built many houses, and a chapel, for their accommodation. Near the mills a stone bridge of three arches has been erected across the Derwent, at the expence of the county, the former one having been washed down by a dreadful flood, in 1795. At a short distance, lower down the river, is a bleaching mill, belonging to the same proprietors; an iron forge, and two cotton mills; one of them constructed like that before described. A stone bridge was also erected here by these gentlemen in 1792. These mills afford regular employment to about 600 persons. A Sunday school has been established here, and another at Belper, for the instruction of the children employed at the cotton works.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 1.30 afternoon; departs 8.45
morning.

[Sidenote: Manufactories.]

[Sidenote: Cotton Mills.]

[A] BELTON. The church is a small ancient structure. The tower appears to have been rebuilt in the year 1637, and at a subsequent period, the chancel has been renewed. The church is extremely neat, and has in the south window six pieces of stained glass, illustrative of scriptural subjects. Within the nave are several splendid monuments. Belton House, near Grantham, the residence of Earl Brownlow, is situated on a beautiful lawn, in a wooded valley, through which the river Witham winds its course. The mansion was built in the year 1689, from designs by Sir Christopher Wren. The form of the building is that of the letter H, a stile of architecture peculiar to that period. It is of stone, and presents four uniform elevations. The apartments are lofty, and well proportioned. Several of the rooms are highly ornamented with carving by Gibbons. The late Lord Brownlow made considerable improvements in the mansion. He took down the cupola and balustrade from the roof. The drawing room was considerably enlarged, and a new entrance at the south front made. Here are many pictures by celebrated masters of the Flemish and Italian schools, with numerous family portraits by Lely, Reynolds, Kneller, Romney and others. Among the latter we may remark a portrait of Sir John Cust, Bart., Speaker of the House of Commons, in his robes, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. William III. in his progress through the northern counties, honoured Belton House with his presence. The park comprises an area of five miles in circumference, inclosed by a wall; numerous plantations of fine trees are highly ornamental to the place. Sir John Brownlow, K.B. afterwards Viscount Tyrconnel, enriched the library with a valuable collection of books; he also formed some extensive gardens, which have since been more adapted to the modern taste in gardening.

[Sidenote: Belton House.]

[B] BELVOIR. The Castle is one of the most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It is placed on an abrupt elevation of a kind of natural cliff, forming the termination of a peninsular hill. It has been the seat of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, for several generations, and claims the priority of every other building in the county in which it is situated. Belvoir has been the site of a Castle ever since the Norman conquest; and its possessors have been chiefly persons of eminence who have figured in the pages of history. The view from the terraces and towers comprehends the whole vale of Belvoir and the adjoining country as far as Lincoln, including twenty-two of the Duke of Rutland's manors. On the southern slope of the hill are enclosed-terraces, on which there are several flower-gardens, surrounded by shrubberies. The park is of great extent, containing fine forest trees, which form a woodland beneath the hill so extensive as to afford shelter for innumerable rooks. Its interior and furniture is of the most superb and costly description; it also contains one of the most valuable collections of paintings in this country, whether considered for the variety of the schools, or the works of each master. A conflagration took place in the year 1816, which consumed a great portion of the ancient part of the castle, and several of the pictures. A curious anecdote is related, illustrative of the folly and superstition of ancient times, which may not be uninteresting to add. Joan Flower and her two; daughters who were servants at Belvoir Castle, having been dismissed the family, in revenge made use of all the enchantments, spells, and charms that were at that time supposed to answer their malicious purposes. Henry the eldest son died soon after their dismissal, but no suspicion of witchcraft arose till five years after, when the three women who are said to have entered into a formal contract with the devil, were accused of "murdering Lord Henry Ross by witchcraft and torturing the Lord Francis his brother and Lady Catherine his sister." After various examinations they were committed to Lincoln gaol. The mother died at Ancaster, on her way thither, having wished the bread and butter she ate might choak her if she was guilty. The daughters were tried before Sir Henry Hobbert, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Sir Edward Bromley, one of the Barons of the Exchequer; they confessed their guilt and were executed at Lincoln, March 11, 1618.

[Sidenote: The Castle.]

[Sidenote: Charge of witchcraft.]

[A] BEMERTON, a parish in the hundred of Branch and Dole. The rectory of this place is interesting, as having been the residence of no less than four celebrated characters, viz. Dr. Walter Curie, Bishop of Bath and Wells, and afterwards of Winchester, who died in 1647; George Herbert, called the divine, who died in 1635; John Norris, a metaphysical writer, who died in 1711; and, lastly, Mr. Archdeacon Coxe, the traveller and historian, who died in 1828: all of them gentlemen highly distinguished in the annals of literature.

[Sidenote: Celebrated men.]

[B] BENEFIELD. In this parish are some remarkable cavities, called Swallows, which have opened a wide field of speculation among philosophers, who have grounded, upon the singular phenomena they exhibit, some new systems with regard to the theory of the earth. These swallows are situated about a furlong west of the village, and are nine in number. Through these cavities, the land-flood waters constantly pass and disappear. They are of a circular form, and of various diameters; some having an oblique, and others a perpendicular descent, opening beneath the apertures into large spaces, which exhibit several smaller conduits, through which the waters pass, to join perhaps, some subterranean river, or mingle with the grand abyss of waters, which some philosophers have placed in the centre of the earth.

[Sidenote: Geological curiosities.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+
5|Bengers ham|Bucks |Colnbrook 3|Uxbridge 3|
21|Beneden[A] pa|Kent |Cranbrook 3|Tenterden 5|
13|Benfield-Side ham|Durham |Durham 12|Newcastle 13|
14|Benfleet, North pa|Essex |Rayleigh 4|Billericay 6|
14|Benfleet, South[B] pa|Essex | ... 4| ... 9|
18|Bengeo pa|Hertford |Hertford 1|Ware 2|
15|Bengrove ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 6|Evesbam 7|
42|Bengworth pa|Worcester |Worchester 16|Pershore 7|
36|Benhall pa|Suffolk |Saxmundham 2|Frainlingh 5|
4|Benham to|Berks |Newbury 3|Hungerford 6|
4|Benham-Hoe ham|Berks | ... 4| ... 6|
44|Benningborough to|N.R. York |York 7|Boro'bridge 8|
46|Benningholme to|E.R. York |Beverly 7|Hornsea 7|
18|Bennington pa|Hertford |Stevenage 5|Buntingford 6|
24|Bennington pa|Lincoln |Boston 5|Wainfleet 12|
24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 7|Newark 7|
+--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+
5|Bengers ham|Slough 4| 18| |
21|Beneden[A] pa|Rolvenden 3| 51| 1663|
13|Benfield-Side ham|Wolsingham 12| 270| 543|
14|Benfleet, North pa|Southend 6| 29| 300|
14|Benfleet, South[B] pa| ... 6| 32| 533|
18|Bengeo pa|Watton 5| 22| 855|
15|Bengrove ham|Pershore 7| 101| |
42|Bengworth pa|Broadway 5| 100| 850|
36|Benhall pa|Woodbridge 3| 89| 668|
4|Benham to|Kinbury 3| 59| |
4|Benham-Hoe ham| ... 4| 60| |
44|Benningborough to|Wetherby 10| 204| 93|
46|Benningholme to|Hull 8| 182| 103|
18|Bennington pa|Watton 3| 29| 631|
24|Bennington pa|Burgh 16| 121| 500|
24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Leadenham 8| 116| 982|
+--+---------------------+----------+------------+------+-------+

[A] BENENDEN, or Biddenden, three miles south east from Cranbrook, is at present populous, though the clothing manufacture, which first occasioned the increase of the population of this part of the county, in the reign of Edward the Third, has for many years failed here. Several good houses still remaining, discover the prosperity of the former inhabitants. The church is a handsome regular building, and its tower a structure of considerable height and strength. By the old part now remaining, it appears to have been originally but small. The interior contains several ancient brasses, and among them, one for the Goldwells of Great Chart; with the dates 1452, and 1499, in Arabic numerals: the rebus of this name, a golden fountain, or well, is also in one of the windows. A free grammar school, now degenerated into a complete sinecure, was founded here in the year 1522. There is a tradition in this parish, that a bequest for the use of the poor, of 20 acres of land, now called the Bread and Cheese land, lying in five pieces, was given by two maiden sisters, commonly called the "Biddenden Maids," of the name of Chulkhurst, "who were born joined together by the hips and shoulders, in the year 1100;" and having lived in that state thirty-four years, died within about six hours of each other. This tale is affected to be established by the correspondent figures of two females impressed on cakes, which after Divine service, in the afternoon, on every Easter Sunday, are distributed to all comers, and not unfrequently to the number from 800 to 1000. At the same time, about 270 loaves, weighing three pounds and a half each, and cheese in proportion, are given to the poor parishioners; the whole expence being defrayed from the rental of the bequeathed lands. The marvellous part of the story however, was wholly discredited by the well informed, until the visit of the Siamese twins to this country revived it with some appearance of truth.

[Sidenote: The Biddenden maids.]

[B] BENFLEET lies south-west by south from Rayleigh. Here was a castle, built by Hastings, the celebrated Danish pirate, and which building Matthew of Westminster described, as having deep and wide ditches. This fortress Alfred the Great took and destroyed in the year 890; Hasting's wife and two sons taken therein, were sent to London. The creeks entering the Thames round Benfleet are celebrated for their oysters.

[Sidenote: A pirate's castle.]

[C] BENNINGTON, called Belintone in the Domesday Book, was a seat of the Mercian kings; and here a great council of nobility and prelates was assembled about the year 850, under King Bertulph, who on the complaint of Askill, a monk of Croyland, of the great devastations committed on the property of that monastery by the Danes, granted the monks a new charter of divers "splendid liberties," and several extensive manors. In the 33d of Edward I. a charter of a weekly market, and a fair annually, was granted for this manor; but the former has long fallen into disuse! The manor was long in possession of the Bourchiers, Earls of Essex. Robert, the third Earl, after his divorce from the infamous Lady Francis Howard, his first wife, in 1613, sold it to Sir Julius Caesar, Knt., from whom it descended to his son and heir, Sir Charles Caesar. This gentleman was appointed Master of the Rolls in 1638; and, after being twice married, and having fifteen children by both wives, died of the small-pox, at Bennington, in 1643: this disease proved fatal also to several of his issue, and among them, to Julius, his eldest surviving son, who dying within a few days, was buried in the same grave with his father. Henry, his next son, and heir, represented this county in the two first parliaments held in the reign of Charles II.; and he was knighted by that sovereign in 1660: he also died of the small-pox, in January 1667. This manor was sold to the trustees under the will of Sir John Cheshire, Knt. His great nephew, John Cheshire, Esq., resided in a small mansion near the ancient castle at Bennington, which stood westward from the church, and most probably occupied the spot whereon stood the palace of the Saxon Kings. The artificial mount of the keep, with the surrounding ditch, are still to be seen. The old manor-house that had been inhabited by the Caesars, stood in the park, at a small distance from the village, but was burnt down about fifty years ago. A small edifice, since erected on the site, was for some years occupied by Mr. Bullock. Bennington church is a small fabric, consisting of a nave and a chancel, with a tower at the west end, and a chapel or burial-place connected with the chancel on the north. Here are two ancient monuments, under arches, which form part of them, each exhibiting recumbent figures of a knight and a lady. Many of the Caesars lie buried here. The Benstede family, sometime lords of the manor, are supposed to have built this church, as their arms are displayed both upon the roof and on the tower. In a niche over the south porch, St. Michael and the dragon are sculptured.

[Sidenote: Ancient charters.]

[Sidenote: The small-pox fatal to Cheshires.]

[Sidenote: Their monuments.]

[A] BENSINGTON was an ancient British town, taken from the original inhabitants by Ceaulin, in the year 572. The west Saxons held the place for two centuries, and appear to have constructed a castle for its defence; but it was reduced by Offa, king of the Mercians, who defeated his rival in a sanguinary contest. To the west of the church are a quadrangular bank and trench. Three sides of the embankment are much defaced. Plot mentions an "angle of King Offa's palace near the church;" by which he probably alludes to the same spot. In this village are several modern buildings. The church, which is gothic, has been built at different times. In the brick flooring of the nave are some ancient stones, with mutilated brasses. Here is a Sunday-school supported by subscription; and a meeting-house for methodists.

[Sidenote: A Mercian King.]

[B] LONG BENTON. A dreadful calamity occurred at Heaton Colliery, in this neighbourhood, on the morning of May 3, 1815, when, by the sudden influx of water from an old mine, Mr. Miller, (the under-viewer, who left a wife and eight children), 22 workmen, 42 boys, and 37 horses, perished; and 25 widows, with about 80 children, were left to bemoan the sudden death of their husbands and fathers. Steam-engines were immediately employed, and every exertion was made for the recovery of the bodies; notwithstanding which, it was not till the 6th of January, in the following year, that the first body was found. It was that of an old man employed on the waggon-way: and a fact worthy of notice is, that the waste-water in which he had been immersed had destroyed the woollen clothes, and corroded the iron parts of a knife the deceased had in his pocket, yet his linen and the bone-haft of his knife remained entire. Shortly after, Mr. Miller, and a few others, were discovered: they had met a similar fate, having been overtaken by the water about a hundred yards from the shaft to which they had been hastening to save themselves. But the lot of these eight persons may be considered fortunate, when compared with the unhappy beings left at work towards the rise of the mine, and as yet unconscious of their dreadful situation. About the 16th of February, the higher parts of the workings were explored; and now a scene truly horrible was presented to view: for here lay the corpses of 56 human beings, whom the water had never reached, being situated 35 fathoms above its level. They had collected together near the crane, and were found within a space of 30 yards of each other; their positions and attitudes were various; several appeared to have fallen forwards from off an inequality, or rather step, in the coal on which they had been sitting; others, from their hands being clasped together, seemed to have expired while addressing themselves to the protection of the Deity; two, who were recognized as brothers, had died in the act of taking a last farewell by grasping each other's hand: and one poor boy reposed in his father's arms. Two slight cabins had been hastily constructed by nailing up deal boards, and in one of these melancholy habitations three of the stoutest miners had breathed their last. A large lump of horse flesh, wrapped up in a jacket, nearly two pounds of candles, and three others, which had died out when half-burned, were found in this apartment, if it can be so called. One man, well known to have possessed a remarkably pacific disposition, had retired to a distance to end his days alone, and in quiet. Another had been placed to watch the rise or fall of the water; to ascertain which, sticks had been placed, and was found dead at his post. There were two horses in the part of the mine to which the people had retired; one had been slaughtered, its entrails taken out, and hind quarters cut up for use; the other was fastened to a stake, which it had almost gnawed to pieces, as well as a corfe or coal basket that had been left within its reach. That these ill-fated people perished for want of respirable air, and not from hunger and thirst, is certain; for most of the flesh cut from the horse, with a considerable quantity of horse-beans, were unconsumed, and a spring of good water issued into this part of the colliery; besides, the unburned remains of candles afford evidence of a still stronger nature; and by these data the coroner's jury was enabled to pronounce a verdict accordingly. The overman had left the chalk-board, in which it is usual to take down an account of the work done, together with his pocket-book, in an empty corfe; on these some memorandum might have been expected to be noted: but no writing subsequent to the catastrophe appeared on either.--The bodies of those men which had lain in wet places were much decayed; but where the floor was dry, though their flesh had become much shrivelled, they were all easily recognised by their features being entire.

[Sidenote: Dreadful accident.]

[Sidenote: Fifty-six lives lost in a mine.]

[Sidenote: Cause of their death.]

[A] BERKELEY. This ancient, but small town, is situated upon a pleasant eminence in the beautiful vale of Berkeley, almost east from the Severn. In the Domesday book, it is termed a royal domain and free borough. A nunnery is said to have existed here in the reign of Edward the Confessor; the frail sisters of which were dispossessed of their estates, including the manor, by the craft of Earl Godwin, who found means to introduce into the community a profligate young man, by whom the nuns were seduced. This conduct being reported to the King, the nunnery was dissolved, and its possessions granted to the Earl. The Conqueror afterwards bestowed the manor on Roger, surnamed De Berkeley, a chieftain who had accompanied him to England. Roger, his grandson, taking part with Stephen, against Henry II., was deprived of his lands; and Berkeley was given by that monarch to Robert Fitzharding, Governor of Bristol, in reward for his eminent services. This nobleman was descended from the Kings of Denmark, and in his posterity the extensive manor of Berkeley, one of the largest in England, is still vested. Berkeley church appears to be of the age of Henry II., though it has undergone various alterations. Near the pulpit is a curious tomb, in memory of Thomas, second Lord Berkeley, and Margaret, his first wife. Here also are various other monuments of this family. The tower, which stands at some distance from the church, was constructed about seventy years ago. In the churchyard is the well known ludicrous epitaph, written by Dean Swift, in memory of "Dickey Pearce, the Earl of Suffolk's fool." Berkeley Castle appears to have been founded by Roger de Berkeley, soon after the Conquest; but various important additions were made to it during the reigns of Henry II., Edward II., and Edward III. The form of the castle approaches nearest to that of a circle; and the buildings are included by an irregular court, with a moat. The keep is flanked by three semi-circular towers, and a square one of subsequent construction: its walls are high and massive: the entrance into it is under an arched doorway, with ornamental sculpture in the Norman style, similar to one at Arundel Castle. This fortress has been the scene of various memorable transactions; the most remarkable, perhaps, was that of the murder of Edward II., in September, 1327, thus noticed by Gray:--

"Mark the year, and mark the night,
When Severn shall re-echo with affright,
The shrieks of death through Berkeley's roofs that ring;
Shrieks of an agonising King!"

Tradition states, that when the murder of King Edward had been determined on, Adam, Bishop of Hereford, at the instigation of the Queen, wrote to the keeper the following words; which, not possessing the distinctness imported by punctuation, were capable of a double construction:

"Edwardum occidere nolite timere bonum est."
Edward the King kill not to fear is good.

The keeper, easily divining the wicked wishes of his employer, put his royal master to death. According to another account, when the death of this unfortunate, but weak sovereign, had been resolved on by the Queen and Mortimer, her infamous paramour, he was removed from Kenelworth to Berkeley Castle, by Sir John Maltravers and Sir Thomas Gourney, to whose keeping he had been previously committed. Thomas, second Lord Berkeley, then owner of the castle, treated him with civility and kindness, but was, in a short time, obliged to relinquish his fortress to the government of Maltravers and Gourney, by whom the King was soon afterwards murdered, in the most brutal and savage manner. "His crie," says Holinshed, "did move many within the castell and town of Birckelei to compassion, plainly hearing him utter a waileful noyse, as the tormentors were about to murder him; so that dyvers being awakened thereby, (as they themselves confessed,) prayed heartilie to God to receyve his soule, when they understode by his crie what the matter ment." A small apartment, called the dungeon room, over the flight of steps leading into the keep, is shewn as the place where the cruel deed was committed: at that time, all the light it received was from arrow slits; the windows have been since introduced. A plaister cast kept here, and said to have been moulded from the King's face after death, is, in reality, a cast from his effigies on the tomb at Gloucester. Berkeley Castle, during the civil wars, was held for the King; and frequent skirmishes took place in the town and neighbourhood. In 1645 it was besieged, and surrendered to the parliament, after a defence of nine days. In the apartments, which are mostly low, dark, and void of proportion, are preserved a numerous assemblage of portraits, chiefly of the Stratton branch, the bequest of the last heir of that family. Besides these portraits, here are several miniatures of the Berkeleys, of considerable antiquity, and so far curious. A few landscapes, by Wouvermans, Claude, Salvator Rosa, &c. complete the Berkeley collection. Edward Jenner, an English physician, celebrated for having introduced the practice of vaccination, as a preventive of the small-pox, was the youngest son of a clergyman, who held the rectory of Rochampton, and the vicarage of this place, and the son was born here, May 17, 1749. Being destined for the medical profession, he was, after a common school education, placed as an apprentice with a very respectable surgeon, at Sodbury, in his native country. He visited London, to finish his studies, by attending the lectures of the celebrated anatomist John Hunter. Returning to the country, he settled here, as a practitioner of the various branches of his profession. A situation like this afforded but little leisure or opportunity for acquiring distinction, and an occasion presented itself for obtaining a larger field for observation, improvement, and emolument: this, however, he was induced to decline. The circumstances of the transaction are thus related by Dr. Lettsom, in his address to the London Medical Society:--"Dr. Jenner happened to dine with a large party at Bath, when something was introduced at the table which required to be warmed by the application of the candle, and doubts were expressed by several persons present, whether the most speedy way would be to keep the flame at a little distance under, or to immerse the substance into it. Jenner desired that the candle might be placed near him, and immediately putting his finger into the flame, suffered it to remain some time; next he put his finger above it, but he was obliged to snatch it away immediately. 'This, gentlemen,' said he, 'is a sufficient test.' The next day he received a note from General Smith, who had been of the party the preceding day, and who was before that time an utter stranger, offering him an appointment in India, which would insure him, in the course of two or three years, an annual income L3,000. The offer was referred to his brother, and Jenner, from his attachment to him, declined it." He had already obtained the reputation of a man of talent and science, when he made known to the world the very important discovery which has raised him to an enviable situation among the benefactors of the human race. His investigations concerning the cow-pox were commenced about the year 1776, when his attention was excited by the circumstance of finding that some individuals, to whom he attempted to communicate the small-pox by inoculation, were insusceptible of the disease; and on inquiry he found that all such patients, though they had never had the small-pox, had undergone the casual cow-pox, a disease common among the farmers and dairy-servants in Gloucestershire, who were not quite unacquainted with its preventive effect. Other medical men were aware of the prevalence of this opinion; but they treated it as a popular prejudice, and Jenner seems to have been the first who ascertained its correctness, and endeavoured to derive from it some practical advantage. He discovered that the variolae vaccinae, as the complaint has been since termed, having, in the first-instance, been produced by accidental or designed innoculation of the matter afforded by a peculiar disease affecting the udder of a cow, could be propagated from one human subject to another by inoculation, to an indefinite extent, rendering all who passed through it secure from the small-pox. He made known his discovery to some medical friends, and in the month of July, 1796, Mr. Cline, surgeon to St. Thomas's Hospital, introduced vaccination into the metropolis. So singular and anomalous a fact as the prevention of an infectious disease by means of another, in many respects extremely differing from it, could not but be received with hesitation; and a warm controversy took place on the subject among the medical faculty. This ultimately proved advantageous both to the discovery and the discoverer, as it terminated in establishing the truth of the most important positions which he had advanced, and left him in full possession of the merit due to him as a successful investigator of the laws of nature. The practice of vaccine inoculation was adopted in the army and navy, and honours and rewards were conferred on the author of the discovery. The diploma constituting him doctor of medicine, was presented to Jenner as a tribute to his talents, by the University of Oxford; he was chosen a fellow of the Royal Society, and of other learned associations; and a parliamentary grant was made to him of the sum of L20,000. The extension of the benefits of vaccination to foreign countries spread the fame of the discoverer, who received several congratulatory addresses from continental potentates. The emperor of Russia, when in this country in 1814, sought an interview with Dr. Jenner, treated him with great attention, and offered to bestow on him a Russian order of nobility. He also visited the King of Prussia, Marshal Blucher, and the Cossack General, Count Platoff, the latter of whom said to him, "Sir, you have extinguished the most pestilential disorder that ever appeared on the banks of the Don." On receiving his diploma, Dr. Jenner practised as a physician at Cheltenham, during the season, and that watering-place was his principal residence till he became a widower, when he removed to Berkeley, to spend in retirement the evening of his life. He died suddenly in consequence of apoplexy, January 26, 1823, and was interred in the parish church of this town.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fair_, May 14, for cattle and pigs.

[Sidenote: The nunnery.]

[Sidenote: The castle.]

[Sidenote: Murder of Edward II.]

[Sidenote: Besieged by the Parliament.]

[Sidenote: Edward Jenner.]

[Sidenote: Anecdote.]

[Sidenote: Discovery of vaccination by the cow-pox.]

[Sidenote: Jenner's subsequent fame.]

Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles |Dist.|Popul
| From |Lond.|-ation.
+--+--------------------------------+-------------------+-----+-----+
18|Berkhampstead, Gr.[A] m.t. & pa|Dunstable 11| 26| 2369|
18|Berkhampstead, Little pa|Hoddesdon 6| 19| 450|
39| Berkeswell pa|Meriden 2| 93| 1450|
+--+--------------------------------+-------------------+-----+-----+

[A] BERKHAMPSTEAD. "The Saxons, in old time," observes Norden, "called this town Berghamstedt, because it was seated among the hills; for Berg signified a hill; ham, a town; and stedt, a seat; all of which was very proper for the situation hereof." The buildings are chiefly of brick, and irregular, but intersected with various handsome houses. Berkhampstead consists of one principal street, about half a mile in length, extending along the side of the high road; and another smaller one branching out from the church towards the site of the castle. The Grand Junction Canal runs the whole length of the town, and very close to it, which makes it a place of considerable trade. Many respectable and genteel families reside here, and hold their monthly balls at the King's Arms Inn, during the winter. The King of Mercia had a palace or castle here; and the town had attained sufficient importance at the time of the Conquest, to be appointed as the place of meeting between the Norman sovereign, and the chiefs of the confederacy formed against his power, and headed by Abbot Fretheric, of St. Alban's. "In the brough," says the Domesday Book, "are two and fifty burgesses, who pay four pounds a year for toll; and they have half a hide, and two shillings rent, common of pasture for the cattle, wood to feed a thousand hogs, and five shillings rent by the year. Its whole value is sixteen pounds. The castle erected by the Saxons was enlarged, strengthened, and fortified with additional outworks, by the Earl of Mortaigne; but in the time of his son and successor, William, who had rebelled against Henry I., it was seized, and ordered to be razed to the ground." It is probable, however, that the demolition was only partial, as it was again fitted up as a royal residence, either in the time of Stephen, or early in the reign of Henry II. The castle and honour of Berkhampstead continued in the possession of the crown till the seventh of King John, who granted them to the Earl of Essex, for L100. per annum. In the year 1216 the castle, which had been reverted to the crown, was besieged by Lewis, Dauphin of France, in conjunction with certain English barons. The garrison, taking advantage of the negligence of the besiegers, made two successful sallies on the same day, capturing divers chariots, arms, and provisions; but, after a siege of some continuance, they surrendered. Henry III. granted the Earldom of Cornwall, with the honour and castle of Berkhampstead, to Richard, his brother, for his services at the siege of the castle of Riole, in France; but, disagreeing with him, he revoked the grant. The interposition of the Earls of Pembroke and Chester occasioned its restoration to the Earl of Cornwall. In 1245, the King granted him an annual fair, of eight days' continuance, for his manor of Berkhampstead; and here, after a long illness, he died on the 4th of April, 1272. Edmund, his only surviving son, succeeded to his estates and titles; and in his time there were twelve burgesses within the borough, with fifty-two free tenants, and twenty-two tenants by serjeancy. This Earl founded the college of Bon-Hommes, at Ashridge, in Buckinghamshire. In the fourth of Edward III., John of Eltham, brother to the King, had a grant of Berkhampstead, with other manors, to the value of 2,000 marks per annum: but, dying without issue, in 1336, his estates were granted by the King, to Edward the Black Prince, with the Dukedom of Cornwall, to be held by him and his heirs, and the eldest sons of the heirs of the King's of England. Richard II. occasionally resided at Berkhampstead castle. Since that period, the castle and honour of Berkhampstead have descended from the crown, to the successive Princes of Wales, as heirs apparent to the throne, and possessors of the Dukedom of Cornwall, under the grant of Edward III. The castle was situated on the east side of the town; and, though the buildings are now reduced to a few massive fragments of wall, the remains are still sufficient to evince the ancient strength and importance of this fortress. The ramparts are very bold, and the ditches still wide and deep, particularly on the north and east sides, though partly filled up by the lapse of centuries. The keep was a circular tower, occupying the summit of a high and steep artificial mount, moated round. Large trees are now growing on the sides of the mount, as well as on many parts of the outward rampart, and declivities of the ditches: other parts are covered with underwood, in many places so thick as to be impassable. The inner court is now an orchard; the outer court is cultivated as a farm; and a small cottage, with a few out-buildings, now occupies a portion of the ground once occupied by Princes and Sovereigns. Near the rampart, on the west side, flows the little river Bulbourne. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is built in the form of a cross, with a tower rising from the intersection towards the west end, and having a projecting staircase at the south-east angle, terminated by a turret at the summit. The tower is supported on strong pointed arches, and was originally open, but is now closed from the church by the belfry floor. On the outside of the tower, next the street, is a sculpture of an angel supporting a shield, impaled with the arms of England and France quarterly. The same arms are painted on glass in the window of a small chapel within the church. Various chapels and chantries were founded here in the Catholic times, and are still partially divided from the body of the church. The sepulchral memorials are numerous. Between two columns of the nave, surrounded by pews, is an ancient tomb of rich workmanship, having on the top, full-length effigies of a Knight and his Lady, both recumbent. The Knight is represented in armour, with his hands raised in the attitude of prayer across his breast: his head rests on a helmet, having a human head, with a long beard, at the upper end; his feet are supported on a lion: he has on a hood and gorget of mail; and, on the sash, which crosses his body and shoulder, is a rose: opposite to this, on his breast-plate, is a dove. The figure of the lady is greatly mutilated; her hands and head are broken off; the latter rests on a cushion, and is covered with net-work; she is arrayed in a close dress, and has a rose on each shoulder. No inscription is remaining on this tomb to designate the persons to whose memory it was erected. Torynton is supposed to have been the founder of the church; a man in special favour with Edmond Plantagenet, Duke of Cornwall. In Sayer's chancel is an altar-tomb of alabaster and black marble, in the memory of John Sayer, Esq., who was chief cook to Charles II. when in exile, and founder of the alms-house for poor widows in this town. A large and strong building of brick, erected as a free-school in the reign of Henry VIII., and endowed with the lands of the guild or brotherhood of St. John the Baptiste, (an ancient foundation in this town,) stands at the bottom of the churchyard. In the next reign the school was made a royal foundation, and incorporated. The master is appointed by the crown, and has apartments at one end of the free school; the school-room occupies the centre; and the other end is inhabited by the chaplain and usher. Here is also a charity-school, supported by voluntary contributions, &c. Numerous donations for charitable purposes have been made to this parish, the principal of which was a bequest of L1,000., made by John Sayer, Esq., in July, 1681, for the building and endowment of an alms house: this was erected after his decease by his relict, who placed in it six poor widows, and increased the original endowment by the gift of L300. Each widow has a small allowance weekly, and a cloth gown worth 20s. once in two years. In the 14th of Edward III., two representatives were sent from this borough; but this was the only return ever made, except to the great council held at Westminster, in the 11th of the same King. Berkhampstead had a charter of incorporation granted by James I., but it scarcely survived the reign of his son. An attempt was made to revive the charter, a year or two after the restoration, but it did not succeed. The honour of Berkhampstead formerly included upwards of fifty-five lordships and manors, in the three counties of Herts, Northampton, and Buckingham. Berkhampstead-place is situated on a pleasant eminence adjoining the town. Great part of the structure was erected by the Careys, having been burnt down in the time of the Lord Treasurer Weston, who then resided in it: the remainder was afterwards repaired, and with some additions, forms the present dwelling. King James's children were mostly nursed in this house. The life of Cowper, the poet, who was born here, will be given at Olney, on account of the length of the present article.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Shrove-Monday, Whit-Monday, for cattle;
Aug. 5, cheese; September 29, Oct. 11, statute.--_Mail_ arrives 11.30
night; departs 3.30 morning.--_Inn_, Kings Arms.

[Sidenote: Description.]

[Sidenote: Its ancient castle.]

[Sidenote: The seat of Kings and Nobles.]

[Sidenote: Now in ruins.]

[Sidenote: The church.]

[Sidenote: Free school.]

[Sidenote: Contained fifty-five lordships.]

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter XII: Part 12

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