Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter III: Part 3

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[A] AMERSHAM, or Agmondesham is situated on the Misbourne, a branch of the river Colne. The town which is seated in a vale between two wooded hills, consists of a long street on the road from Uxbridge to Wendover; it is intersected about the centre, by a cross street from Chesham to High Wycombe, at the point of which stands the church. The market is held in the Market House, or Town Hall, built by Sir William Drake, about 1680; it is a brick building supported by pillars and arches, with a lanthorn and clock, and said to be the handsomest in the county. Amersham was a parliamentary borough by prescription, but by the Reform Bill of 1832, is now disfranchised. The church was extensively repaired in 1778, in the chancel of which are monuments of the family of the Bents of Leicestershire, who had a seat in the parish; and a monument of Henry, son of Sir Patrick Curwen, Bart., who died in 1638; and also several monuments of the Drake family, in the chancel and the adjoining mausoleum; among which are those of Montague Gerrard, by _Sheemaker_, and the wife of the late Mr. Drake, by Henry Cheere. About a mile northward from the town, is Shardeloes Park, the seat of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt Drake: the estate was formerly in the possession of the Brudenell's, which family terminated in a peeress, and brought Shardeloes to the Cheynes; afterwards it became the seat of William Totehill, Esq., where he entertained Queen Elizabeth in one of her progresses. Francis Drake, of East Sherwin, Surrey, who was one of the gentlemen of the bedchamber to James I., married Jane, the daughter and heiress of William Totehill, Esq. The mansion is beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, overlooking an immense sheet of water, covering thirty-five acres, and commands a delightful prospect, particularly towards the east, where the town of Amersham, and the surrounding eminences, covered with wood, present a very picturesque appearance. The gardens, formerly much admired for their beauty, were originally formed by Sir William Drake, about 1666, but have been modernized by Richmond, for the late proprietor. Here is also a Free Grammar School, the scholars of which are entitled to three exhibitions in Corpus Christi College, Oxford, bequeathed by Dr. Challoner, a canon of Windsor, in 1620; and likewise four alms houses, with other minor charities. The manufactures are chiefly lace, sacking, and all kinds of white cotton, wrought by machinery; and the markets are well attended.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Monday for horned cattle, and
September 19, for cattle, and statute.--_Inns_, Crown and
Griffin.--_Mail_ arrives 7 A.M., departs 9-1/4 P.M.

[Sidenote: Town Hall, built by Sir W. Drake, 1680.]

[Sidenote: Shardeloes park.]

[Sidenote: Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth.]

[Sidenote: Picturesque views.]

[B] AMESBURY, or Ambresbury, is situated on the river Avon, and is said to derive its name and origin from an abbey, founded by the British Prince Ambrosius; which abbey was subsequently changed into a convent of Benedictine monks, of which some remains are still to be seen. In the parish, and about two miles from the town, is the celebrated British monument, known by the name of Stone-henge. Antiquaries differ in their opinions as to the probable application of this structure; the majority, however, deem it to have been a druidical temple, or a grand tribunal of justice. Out of twenty-four enormous stones, of which the outer circular range appears to have been formed, seventeen are still standing, and seven on the ground; of the inner circle, eleven out of the nineteen of which it was formed are still upright, and the remainder prostrate. The distance of the inner circle from the outer one is about eight feet, forming a walk between the two of about three hundred feet in circumference; the stones are from eighteen to twenty feet high, from six to seven feet broad, and about three feet thick, and there is an appearance of the whole having been surrounded with a trench, over which were three passages. There are numerous barrows and tumuli around it, where many skeletons and military weapons have been discovered. Conjecture has been at a loss to ascertain the means by which such solid masses could have been conveyed, and placed in so elevated a situation without the aid of machinery. It stands near the summit of a hill; even at the distance of half a mile the appearance is awful; but on a nearer approach, the eye is still more delighted with the greatness of its contour. On entering the building, either on foot or horseback, these ruins fill the mind with astonishment, which it is impossible for the pen adequately to describe. Other buildings have fallen by piece-meal--here a single stone is a ruin. As you advance farther, the greatness of every part, and the singular construction of the whole, causes additional surprise. Some authors suppose that this noble temple does not owe its defacement so much to the introduction of Christianity, as to the rude and barbarous hands of the neighbouring peasantry, who have carried away the stones for their own purposes. At a house which occupies part of the ancient nunnery, a society of nuns of St. Augustine, from Flanders, have taken up their abode, probably attracted by the supposed sanctity of the situation. Near the town stands the once celebrated house of the Dukes of Queensbury, built by Inigo Jones, and subsequently improved by the Earl of Burlington. The neighbourhood abounds with clay used for making tobacco pipes, and the river Avon supplies a very much admired species of fish called loach. In the vicinity is a camp, called Vespasians. It consists of a triangular area of 39 acres, defended by a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by the Avon. This may have been occupied by the Romans, but its construction and position indicate a British origin.

_Market_, Friday.--_Mail_ arrives 11 P.M., departs 4 A.M.--_Fair_,
May 17, June 22, December 18, for horses, sheep, and horned
cattle.--_Inn_, George.

[Sidenote: Founded by the British Prince Ambrosius.]

[Sidenote: Stone-henge.]

[Sidenote: Its awful appearance.]

[Sidenote: Nunnery of St. Augustine.]

[Sidenote: Camp of 39 acres.]

[A] ALMWICH, a seaport town in the parish of the same name, in the hundred of Twerclyn. It is situated on the north coast of the Island of Anglesey; and from a small village (in consequence of the discovery of a rich copper-mine in the Parys mountain) has been augmented into a considerable town: the appearance of this celebrated mountain is very rude; it is bare of vegetation, in consequence of the suffocating fumes which issue from it. The Romans are supposed to have obtained copper ore from this place, as many vestiges of what, it is imagined, were their operations, are still traceable. The great riches of the site were not, however, discovered until March 2, 1768, by the lessees of Sir Nicholas Bayley, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge; and equally successful was the Rev. Edward Hughes, proprietor of another part of the same ridge. The substance of the mountain being ore, it has not been worked in the usual way, by shafts and levels, but by direct excavation. "Nature," Mr. Pennant observes, "hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot, for above the copper ore, and not more than three-quarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of the metal yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar; whether these are symptomatic of the sulphurous arsenical silver ores, or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the great, insomuch that it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers, which might reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it." From this mountain arises a mineral water, which turns the syrup of violets red, without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the mineral substances found from time to time would prove a tedious employment, and perhaps an unimportant one. The following are the principal and most useful:--1. Yellow sulphurated copper ore; 2. Native copper, in small quantities; 3. Sulphate of copper, both chrystallized and in solution; 4. Sulphate of lead, containing a small portion of silver; 5. Black ore, containing copper with galenea, calamine, and some silver; 6. Native sulphur. Not far from Parys Mountain is the port whence the ore brought from the mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea; it is a chasm between two rocks, large enough to receive thirty vessels, each 200 tons. The two companies employ fifteen brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides sloops and other craft. The articles exported from these copper mines are principally a coarse copper from the smelting-house, a richer copper ore, dried precipitate of copper from the vitriol pits, refined sulphur, ochre, alum, and green vitriol. Though much improved by the copper companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean, as to make it difficult and dangerous of access, during the prevalence of high northerly winds.

_Fair_, November 12.

[Sidenote: From this place the Romans obtained copper ore.]

[Sidenote: Lead ore which yields silver also.]

[Sidenote: Various minerals.]

[Sidenote: The port, a chasm between the rocks.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+
15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 6|Cricklade 3|
15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | |
| or Ashbrook } pa|Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 5|
15|Ampney, St. Peter |Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 4|
43|Ampleforth pa & to|N.R. York |Helmsley 4|New Malton 13|
16|Amport pa|Hants |Andover 5|Ludgershall 5|
3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Bedford |Bedford 8|Woburn 7|
36|Ampton pa|Suffolk |Bury 5|Ixworth 5|
+--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+
15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Fairford 4| 85| 463|
15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | |
| or Ashbrook } pa|Bibury 3| 88| 115|
15|Ampney, St. Peter |Cricklade 5| 86| 180|
43|Ampleforth pa & to|York 18| 223| 623|
16|Amport pa|Salisbury 13| 69| 731|
3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Toddington 7| 46| 1688|
36|Ampton pa|Thetford 8| 76| 110|
+--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+

[A] AMPNEY DOWN. The church of this place is very curious, and is said to have been built by the Knights Templars, about the year 1260. Under the window at the south-end of the transept, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas de Villiers and his lady, with their effigies, represented under an arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mail and surtout, with his legs crossed, his feet resting on a lion, and his right hand on the hilt of his sword; on his left arm is a shield bearing the Cross of St. George, charged with five escalop-shells. This figure is of hard blue stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Below the effigies of the knight is a mutilated inscription in the Saxon character. An ancient mansion, built by the family of the Hungerfords, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was repaired and modernized, as to its exterior, a few years ago. It belongs, with the manor, to the family of Eliot, of Port Eliot, in Cornwall.

[Sidenote: The church built by the Knights Templars.]

[B] AMPTHILL is situated between two hills in the centre of the county. Here is an obelisk of Portland stone, forming a receptacle for a pump; and also a Gothic cross, which was erected in 1744, to the memory of Catherine of Arragon, by the Earl of Upper Ossory, who was then proprietor of Ampthill Park, at a former period the residence of that ill-treated Queen. This park, which lies to the west of the town, is now the seat of Lord Holland; it was constituted a royal domain by Henry VIII., who conferred a name on the annexed estates, the "Honour of Ampthill;" the old castle in which Queen Catherine resided, stood on a more elevated ground than the present mansion, which is a magnificent structure, with wings, and a flight of steps leading to a handsome hall; the park, which is now united with that of Houghton, is spacious, and presents several most delightful prospects. At the entrance of Ampthill Park there is a pear tree, under which it is reported that Sir Philip Sydney wrote a part of his Arcadia.

_Mail_ arrives 6 A.M.. departs 8-1/2 P.M.--_Fairs_, May 4, and
November 30, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Hart.

[Sidenote: Under a pear-tree in Ampthill park Sir Philip Sydney wrote part of his Arcadia.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+
57|Amroth[A] pa|Pembroke |Narbeth 6|Tenby 6|
18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3|
18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3|
24|Ancaster[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 6|Sleaford 8|
13|Ancroft chap|Durham |Berwick 6|Coldstream 10|
24|Anderby pa|Lincoln |Alford 6|Spilsby 10|
32|Anderson, or | | | |
| Anderstone pa|Dorset |Blandford 7|Bere Regis 3|
7|Anderton pa|Chester |Northwich 2|Warrington 9|
22|Anderton pa|Lancaster|Wigan 3|Bolton 4|
36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Hants |Salisbury 18|Stockbridge 7|
+--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+
57|Amroth[A] pa|Llaugharne 10| 251| 654|
18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford 3| 20| 1321|
18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford 3| 20| 369|
24|Ancaster[C] pa|Newark 14| 116| 491|
13|Ancroft chap|Wooler 10| 253| 1384|
24|Anderby pa|Saltfleet 12| 142| 217|
32|Anderson, or | | | |
| Anderstone pa|Poole 12| 110| 54|
7|Anderton pa||Knutsford 6| 175| 327|
22|Anderton pa|Chorley 5| 201| 343|
36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Whitchurch 7| 64| 4843|
+--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] AMROTH. The castle of Amroth, now modernized, from the house formerly called Eare Wear, was in the 15th century, a settlement of the Elliott's. The present proprietor is Captain Ackland, by purchase, from a female representative of the Elliotts. The most judiciously assimilating additions have been made so as to give it every appendage of convenience and luxury. The antique porch is nicely preserved. The conservatory and grapery are entered from the dining-rooms, which was once a vaulted roofed ale cellar, or castle prison. A portion of this vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a beautiful and interesting view of Tenby. The church of Amroth, on the road to Ludchurch, is situated on a limestone rock, which has been reduced on every side, and is remarkable for a curiously disposed tower.

[Sidenote: View of Tenby.]

[B] GREAT AMWELL is supposed to have derived its name from Emma's Well, a pure water-fountain that issues from a hill, and forms one of the sources of the New River. Here is a monument erected by Mr. Milne, to the ill-requited Sir Hugh Middleton, in a small islet formed by the said river. Sir Hugh, notwithstanding the assistance afforded him by Parliament, and the City of London, ruined himself by procuring supplies of water to the metropolis. Great mystery envelopes the latter period of his life. It is traditionally reported that he retired to the village of Kemberton, near Shiffnall, in Shropshire, where he resided some time in great indigence, under the assumed name of Raymond, and it is said that during such residence he was actually employed in paving the streets. The poet Warner, author of "Albion's England," lies interred here. The church is situated on an eminence, the picturesque beauty of which has been justly celebrated by the admirable poet, usually denominated Scott of Amwell, from his residence in the village, and the title of his poem.

[Sidenote: Emma's Well, one of sources of the New River]

[Sidenote: Indigence of Sir Hugh Middleton.]

[C] ANCASTER. This parish is situated on the great Roman road, called Ermin-street, and bears strong evidence of having been a Roman station; many authors unite to fix here the ancient Causennae. It occupies a low situation, and at the north end flows a small brook. From the vestiges which remain of military works it has certainly been a place of great strength. A great number of coins, and other antiquities, have been found here in such quantities, as to become a source of considerable emolument to the inhabitants of the place; so much so, that at one time many became extensive dealers in them. These coins are of various Emperors. Several mosaic pavements have also been discovered here. It is highly probable from these circumstances, that Ancaster was the Causennae of Antoninus. About the town are several quarries of stone, which is found very near the surface. Ancaster once gave the title of Duke to the head of the Bertie family, but that Dukedom is now extinct.

[Sidenote: Mosaic pavements.]

[D] ANDOVER, situated on the river Anton, is supposed to have been the Andaoreon of the Romans; and this opinion seems to have been countenanced by the remains of several ancient encampments in the neighbourhood, and by the Roman road, which runs from Winchester to Cirencester, and passes through the town. The antiquity of the corporation is as remote as the reign of John, but the present charter was granted by Queen Elizabeth; the town is extensive, and two of the streets are handsome and wide. There is a spacious town-hall, supported by arches, under which the weekly market is held. The church, situated at the north of the town, is a large Gothic building, consisting of a nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a transept on the north, and a low tower rising from the centre; it existed in the time of the Conqueror, and is dedicated to St. Mary. Within four miles of the town is held the great annual fair of Weyhill, which, as it lasts for a week, causes much circulation of money in Andover. In addition to the many small Roman encampments in the immediate neighbourhood, there is a very large one on the summit of Bury Hill, about two miles to the S.S.W.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 2-3/4 A.M., departs 11-3/4
P.M.--_Fairs_, Friday and Saturday after Mid-Lent, for cheese,
horses, and leather; May 17, November 13, for sheep, horses, leather,
and cheese.--_Bankers_, T. & W. Heath, draw on Masterman and
Co.--_Inns_, Star and Garter, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: Weyhill Fair.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+
54|Andrew, St. pa|Glamorgan |Cardiff 5|Llandaff 5|
54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Glamorgan |Cowbridge 3|Bridgend 6|
36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Suffolk |Bungay 4|Beccles 4|
34|Angersleigh pa|Somerset |Taunton 4|Wellington 4|
29|Angerton (High) to|Northumb |Morpeth 9|Hartburn 1|
29|Angerton, (Low) to|Northumb | ... 9| ... 2|
57|Angle pa|Pembroke |Pembroke 9|Milford by W 6|
47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] |North Wales| | |
22|Anglezarke to|Lancaster |Bolton 6|Chorley 5|
+--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+
|Dist.
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
54|Andrew, St. pa|Cowbridge 8| 165| 474|
54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Cardiff 15| 175| 16|
36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Halesworth 7| 106| 512|
34|Angersleigh pa|Ilminster 11| 145| 54|
29|Angerton (High) to|Rothbury 12| 290| 64|
29|Angerton, (Low) to| ... 13| 289| 55|
57|Angle pa|The Lightho. 4| 264| 458|
47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] | | | 48328|
22|Anglezarke to|Blackburn 9| 203| 168|
+--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+

[A] ANGLESEY (Isle and County of), forms one of the six counties of North Wales, and is situated at the north western extremity of the principality. It is watered on three sides by the Irish sea, and separated on the eastern side from Caernarvonshire, by the serpentine strait of Menai, from three-quarters to half a mile broad. Its form is irregular, being indented with many small bays and creeks, which gave it some maritime importance under its native princes. It has received numerous appellations from the ancient Britons; the most approved of which was Mon, signifying remote, Latinised by the Romans into Mona, the "nurse of Wales," from its fruitfulness; and changed by the Saxons into Angles-ey, or the Englishman's Island. It was the principal establishment of the Druids in Britain, until this island was invaded by the Romans, A.D. 59, under Suetonius Paulinus, who ordered their groves to be cut down, and stationed a garrison to insure obedience. The climate of Anglesey is mild, and the sea-breezes render the weather more temperate here than in the other counties of North Wales, although from the same cause it is less clear: that portion of the island which borders on the Menai, the site of the terrific Druidical groves, is richly wooded. The interior, on the contrary, owing to the great scarcity of fuel, has been rendered nearly devoid of wood; and the greater part of the island possesses little of hill and dale beyond a gentle and undiversified undulation of surface; its general aspect is uninviting and cheerless. The land, however, is good, and under proper management very productive, as respects both tillage and pasturage. About 25,000 head of black cattle (exclusive of sheep and hogs), are annually supplied to the English market, where they are much admired for their flavour and tenderness, occasioned by the short bite of the pasturage on which they feed. Before the erection of the suspension bridge, the passage of the numerous droves of cattle at the five authorized ferries of the Menai, was a very extraordinary sight; they were made to swim over, guided by the drovers in boats. Butter, cheese, hides, tallow, wax, and honey, form also great articles of trade here; throughout the island there are but few manufactures of any importance. The shore abounds in some of the most highly prized marine productions, and is especially celebrated for the variety and beauty of its sea shells. Anglesey is as interesting to the antiquary, as to the natural philosopher. The ancient British vestiges are very numerous; comprising no less than twenty-eight cromlechs, or Druidical altars, together with circles, monumental stones, entrenchments, and other remains of a similar description, both British and Roman, which will receive attention in their proper places; several of the parish churches (of which the whole, seventy-four, stand near the coast), with various monastic remains, also deserve examination on the score of antiquity. Mona, now Anglesey, was the chief seat of the Druids, A.D. 59. Suetonius Paulinus, in the reign of Nero, was invested with the command of an army, and prepared to signalize his name by victories over those barbarians. Finding this island the chief seat of the Druids, he resolved to attack it, and bring into subjection a place which was the centre of their superstition, and which afforded protection to all their baffled forces. The Britons endeavoured to obstruct his landing on this sacred island, both by the force of their arms, and the terrors of their religion. The women and priests were intermingled with the soldiers upon the shore; and running about with flaming torches in their hands, and tossing their disheveled hair, they struck greater terror into the astonished Romans by their howlings, cries and execrations, than the real danger from the armed forces was able to inspire. But Suetonius, exhorting his troops to disregard the menaces of a superstition which he despised, impelled them to the attack, drove the Britons off the field, burned the Druids in the same fires which those priests had prepared for their captive enemies; destroyed all their consecrated groves and altars--and having thus triumphed over the religion of the Britons, he thought his future progress would be easy in reducing the people to subjection; but in this expectation he was disappointed. The circumference of the island is seventy-six miles. The sea-passage from Holyhead to Dublin, is about sixty miles, which is now traversed by steam packets daily. Next to agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, mining affords most employment to the labouring population; a great number of persons are also engaged in fishing and catching wild-fowl, round the coast. It comprises 200,000 acres of land.

[Sidenote: Originally the principal establishment of the Druids.]

[Sidenote: Annual exportation of cattle.]

[Sidenote: Prized for its marine productions.]

[Sidenote: Invasion of the Romans]

[Sidenote: The Druids burnt in the fires they had prepared for their enemies.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
37 |Agmering pa|Sussex |L. Hampton 4|Arundel 4|
46 |Angram to|N.R. York |Tadcaster 3|Wetherby 7|
43 |Angram Grange to|N.R. York |Easingwold 4|Thirsk 7|
29 |Anick to|Northumb |Hexham 2|Corbridge 3|
29 |Anick Grange to|Northumb | ... 2| ... 3|
46 |Anlaby to|E.R. York |Hull 4|Beverley 7|
27 |Anmer pa|Norfolk |Castle Rising 6|Burnham M. 10|
30 |Annesley pa|Nottingham|Mansfield 6|Nottingham 10|
39 |Ansley[A] pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 5|Atherstone 3|
35 |Anslow, or Annesley to|Stafford |Burton-on-T. 3|Uttoxeter 9|
+--+----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+--------------------------+-------------+
37 |Agmering pa|Steyning 8| 58| 928|
46 |Angram to|York 6| 194| 67|
43 |Angram Grange to|Borobridge 11| 217| 28|
29 |Anick to|Newcastle 18| 278| 163|
29 |Anick Grange to| ... 18| 278| 36|
46 |Anlaby to|South Cave 7| 171| |
27 |Anmer pa|Lynn 11| 106| 132|
30 |Annesley pa|Newsted Ab. 3| 134| 402|
39 |Ansley[A] pa|Coventry 9| 101| 773|
35 |Anslow, or Annesley to|Abbots Brom 8| 128| 270|
+--+----------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ANSLEY became the property of the Ludford family, by purchase, in 1613. Ansley Hall, an irregular but commodious residence, the manorial seat of John Newdigate Ludford, Esq., is situated in an extensive park, rich in natural and artificial beauties, containing a hermitage erected with the materials of an ancient oratory, in which Warton, who visited it in 1758, left his beautiful verses, beginning:--

Beneath this stony roof reclined,
I sooth to peace my pensive mind.

On an insulated spot is also a Chinese temple, or cell, which contains a monument of the Purefoy family, removed from Caldecote Church in 1796. Ansley church has some remains of Saxon and early Norman architecture, and a square tower of remarkable beauty at the west end.

[Sidenote: A hermitage and Chinese temple.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+
18|Anstey[A] pa|Herts |Barkway 3|Buntingford 4|
23|Anstey chap|Leicester |Leicester 4|Mount Sorrel 5|
39|Anstey pa|Warwick |Coventry 5|Nuneaton 6|
41|Anstey pa|Wilts |Hindon 5|Shaftesbury 6|
11|Anstey, East pa|Devon |Dulverton 3|S. Moulton 10|
11|Anstey, West pa|Devon | ... 4| ... 9|
45|Anston to & pa|W.R. York |Worksop 6|Tickhill 7|
8|Anthony, St. pa|Cornwall |Falmouth 5|Helston 8|
8|Anthony, St. pa|Cornwall |St. Mawes 2|Falmouth 3|
27|Antingham pa|Norfolk |N. Walsham 3|Cromer 6|
8|Anthony, West, or St.| | | |
| Jacobs[B] pa|Cornwall |Devonport 4|Saltash 4|
7|Antrobus to|Chester |Northwich 4|Warrington 8|
24|Anwick pa|Lincoln |Sleaford 5|Tattershall 8|
28|Apethorpe chap|Northamp |Wandesford 4|Stamford 7|
24|Apley chap|Lincoln |Wragby 2|Lincoln 10|
15|Apperley ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 4|Cheltenham 6|
24|Appleby[C] pa|Lincoln |Glandford B. 7|Burton 5|
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+
18|Anstey[A] pa|Stocking Pel. 4| 33| 417|
23|Anstey chap|Loughboro' 8| 100| 850|
39|Anstey pa|Rugby 10| 93| 268|
41|Anstey pa|Wilton 9| 95| 348|
11|Anstey, East pa|Bampton 6| 169| 166|
11|Anstey, West pa| ... 7| 169| 226|
45|Anston to & pa|Sheffield 10| 152| 776|
8|Anthony, St. pa|Lizard Point 12| 275| 300|
8|Anthony, St. pa|Truro 9| 270| 144|
27|Antingham pa|Aylesham 6| 126| 248|
8|Anthony, West, or St.| | | |
| Jacobs[B] pa|St. Germains 3| 123| 3099|
7|Antrobus to|Frodsham 11| 179| 476|
24|Anwick pa|Metheringh 9| 120| 235|
28|Apethorpe chap|Oundle 6| 84| 297|
24|Apley chap|Horncastle 12| 143| 152|
15|Apperley ham|Glocester 6| 104| 401|
24|Appleby[C] pa|Barton 8| 163| 517|
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+

[A] ANSTEY. In this village are the remains of a castle, built in the reign of the Conqueror, by Eustace, Earl of Boulogne, for the purpose of keeping the English in greater subjection; it was demolished in the time of Henry III., and the parish church formed of its materials. The moat surrounding the mount upon which the keep was built, with additional works made in the reign of King John, still remains. In the south aisle of the church is an ancient monument, with the effigies, as traditionally reported, of Richard de Anstre the founder. The Roman road called Ermine Street, passes through this village.

[Sidenote: Ruins of a Castle.]

[B] ST. ANTHONY, consists of the two manors of East and West Anthony, formerly in the Dawney family, but now in that of the Carews. East Anthony House, the seat of the Right Hon. Reginald Pole Carew, M.P., is situated on a branch of the Lynher Creek, nearly opposite Trematon Castle. It is a large square building, of Pentuan stone, finished by Gibbs the architect, about the year 1721. This mansion contains a respectable collection of old portraits, amongst which is one of Richard Carew, the historian, with a device of a diamond on an anvil, with a hammer suspended over it. The church contains several monuments well deserving attention. Besides numerous memorials of the Carew family, there is in the chancel, the form of a lady, on a brass plate, beneath an elegant gothic canopy, in memory of Margery Arundell, who died Lady of the Manor in the early part of the fifteenth century. Sir Alexander Carew, a gentleman of large property, and one of the representatives of the county, at the commencement of the civil wars, being averse to the measures of the court, and having been intrusted by Parliament with the command of St. Michael's Island and Fort, he attempted to deliver them into the King's possession; but the design being discovered to the Parliament, he was suddenly seized and carried prisoner to Plymouth, and there the women were so enraged against him, that it was with difficulty he was rescued from their vengeance. From thence he was conveyed by sea to London, where he was expelled by the Commons, and being tried by a court-martial, was found guilty and beheaded on Tower Hill, December 23, 1644. WEST ANTHONY, or St. Jacobs. This is a very pleasing village, which has risen into importance from its proximity to the towns of Devonport, Plymouth and Stonehouse; it is a favourite residence of the officers connected with the dockyards and navy at these important towns. Near this place is Mount Edgecomb, the residence of the Earl of that title; it is celebrated for the beauty of its situation, near the sea, and being a much admired stroll for the inhabitants of, and visitors to Plymouth.

[Sidenote: Mount Edgecomb.]

[Sidenote: Seat of the Carew family.]

[Sidenote: Sir A. Crew beheaded.]

[C] APPLEBY is situate on the river Ancholme, which rises in the wolds near Market Raisin, whence, it takes a northerly direction near Glandford Bridge, it is navigable to the Humber for barges of small burden. That very ancient British road--the Ermine-street--passes through the village. This line of road was afterwards adopted by the Romans; it enters the county to the west of Stamford, and preserving nearly a due northerly direction, passing through the city of Lincoln, continues its course to the banks of the Humber; it is cast up to a great height, and is in some places seven yards in breadth.

[A] APPLEBY, a populous village, which connects the four counties of Leicester, Derby, Stafford, and Warwick. Here is a free grammar school for 100 boys, founded by Sir John Moore, in 1697.

[B] APPLEBY. This town is situated on the river Eden, by which it is almost surrounded, and by some antiquaries it is supposed to occupy the site of the Roman station Aballaba. It has been the county town since the reign of Edward the Confessor. It is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen, and capital Burgesses; the Mayor having authority to arrest for any sum without limitation. Appleby did send two representatives to Parliament, but has been disfranchised by the Reform Bill. It has many times been assailed by the Scots, who burnt it in 1388; and in 1598 it suffered seriously by a pestilence, from which time it has never recovered its former size and consequence. The town at present consists of one broad street, built irregularly on the slope of a hill, at the upper part of which stands the castle, which is of early Norman, if not of Saxon origin; and at the lower end the parish church. The ancient market houses or cloisters, were pulled down in 1811, and a handsome gothic building, erected by Smirke, in their stead. Here are also a town-hall and gaol; and at each end of the town stands a stone obelisk or cross. Appleby received charters from Hen. II., John, and Hen. III., all which were given up to James II., since which period it has subsisted as a borough by prescription. Crackenthorpe Hall, a manorial residence in this parish, was from the earliest period of authenticated record, the mansion of the Machels, a Saxon family, who eventually alienated it to the late Earl of Lonsdale. Near this seat, which is at present neglected, is a Roman camp 300 yards long and 150 yards broad, with three entrances, and a watch tower or fort, at the distance of bow-shot. Appleby has produced some eminent characters, among whom should be noticed Thomas de Veripont, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1255. Thomas de Appleby, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1363. Roger de Appleby, Bishop of Ossory, in 1404; and Dr. Christopher Potter, Provost of Queen's College, Oxford, Prebendary of Windsor, and Dean of Worcester; the last named was vice-chancellor of Oxford when the civil wars of Charles I. broke out, and sent all his plate to the king, stating that he would drink as Diogenes did, from the hollow of his hand, before his majesty should want. Here is a free Grammar School, richly endowed, which is open to all the children of the town upon paying 2s. 6d. per quarter to the Master; and also five scholarships, founded by the Earl of Thanet at Queen's College, Oxford, and entitled to participate in five exhibitions of L60. per annum at the same college, on the foundation of Lady Elizabeth Hastings. An Hospital for thirteen widows, founded by the celebrated Anne, Countess of Pembroke and Montgomery, heiress of the Cliffords, the possessors of the castle for several centuries; by the marriage of whose eldest daughter it became the property of the family of Tufton, Earl of Thanet. The main portion of the present castle which is of a square form, was built in 1686 out of the ruins of a part of the former, by Thomas, Earl of Thanet. Appleby Castle survived the attacks of the Parliamentary Army, under the influence of its owner, the aforesaid Countess Anne, but was compelled to yield in 1648. The church of St. Lawrence, which was partly built by the same spirited lady, contains a noble monument to her memory. The market is one of the best supplied with corn in its vicinity. It however possesses but little trade, and no manufacture of importance.

_Market_, Saturday--_Mail_ arrives at 1-1/2 A.M., departs 11-3/4
P.M.--_Fairs_, October 7 and 8, for sheep, &c; November 24, for
sheep and oxen; November 5, for pigs.

[Sidenote: Burnt by the Scots.]

[Sidenote: Eminent characters born here.]

[Sidenote: Appleby castle.]

[A] APPLEDORE is situated on the banks of the river Rother, in the hundred of Blackburn, lathe of Scray, and was a place of some maritime consequence in the reign of Alfred. The town is at present chiefly inhabited by graziers and others employed in the marshes, to which it is very near. The church is built on the foundation of a castle or fort, which had been erected by the Danes, who sailed up to this town in the year 893.

_Market_. Tuesday.--_Fairs_. Jan. 11, and 4th Mon. in June for cattle
and pedlery.

[Sidenote: Principally inhabited by Graziers.]

[B] APPLESHAW.--Great Show Fair, Friday and Saturday before Weyhill Fair. Nov. 4 and 5, all for sheep.

[C] APPLETHWAITE. All the fisheries on the lovely lake of Winandermere belong to the inhabitants of this thriving village, and subject only to a tithe of the fish caught to the Rector of Winandermere, who makes composition for the same, by a sum prescribed by each boat. The red char, esteemed so great a delicacy, is said to be peculiar to the lakes of Winandermere and Ullswater; this delicious fish is taken in nets during the months of October and May, when they are potted and sent to different parts of the kingdom. About the beginning of September a grand regatta is given on the lucid waters of the lake, attended by families of the first distinction.

[Sidenote: Lake of Winandermere.]

[Sidenote: Grand Regatta.]

[D] APPLETON. This village was the birth place of the famous physician and chemist, Edmund Dickinson, who was born in the year 1624. At 20 years of age he went to the university of Oxford; in 1655, (he published a work to prove) that the Greeks borrowed the story of the Pythian Apollo, and all that related to the Oracle of Delphos, from the Holy Scriptures. In consequence of some excellent cures, he was appointed Physician to Charles II., and afterwards became a convert to the doctrine of the Transmutation of Metals; and wrote a work, the object of which is to prove, "that the method and mode of the creation of the universe, (according to the principles of true philosophy,) are strictly and concisely laid down by Moses." He died in 1707.

[Sidenote: Birth place of the learned Edmund Dickinson]

[E] APPLETREWICK. In this village was born William Craven, the founder of the noble House of Craven, who by his industry and good conduct arose from an humble station to the dignity of Lord Mayor of London--a proof of the advantages attendant on industry.

[Sidenote: House of Craven.]

[A] ARBORFIELD, in the hundred of Sonning. In this parish, near the church, is an ancient Manor-house, well worthy of the observation of the Antiquary; it was built by the family of the Standens, who were Lords of the Manor in the 17th century. The last male heir of this ancient family was Edward Standen, the person alluded to in the popular ballad of Molly Mogg.

_Fair_, October 5, cattle.

[Sidenote: Molly Mogg.]

[B] ARDINGLEY. In the parish church are several monuments of the ancient families of the Wakehursts and Culpeppers; one of which is a tomb to the memory of Nicholas Culpepper and his lady, who died in the beginning of the sixteenth century. This monument bears his portraiture with that of his wife and eighteen children. Nicholas Culpepper, the celebrated herbalist and astrologer, was born in London in 1616, and after receiving his education at the university of Cambridge, was apprenticed to an apothecary. He came to London and settled in Spitalfields about 1642. He commenced a war with the College of Physicians, by accusing them of deceit and ignorance, and published a translation of their "Dispensary," giving an account of the supposed virtues of each drug, and the complaints in which they were used. He was also author of the "Herbal," which is written with much clearness, and distinctly explained. It passed through many editions. From the tenor of his writings, it may be gathered that he joined or at least favoured the Jesuits.

_Fair_, May 30, Pedlary.

[Sidenote: Culpepper, the herbalist and astrologer.]

[C] ARDSLEY. The birth place of James Nayler, a Quaker, who was remarkable both on account of the extravagance of the delusions which for some time possessed him and his followers, and the excessive severity of the punishment which was inflicted upon him. He was the son of an industrious little farmer, who supported his family by the cultivation of his own estate. About the age of twenty-two he married, and removed into the parish of Wakefield, where he continued till the breaking out of the civil wars in 1641. He then entered into the parliament army, and served as a soldier eight or nine years, at first under Lord Fairfax, and afterwards as quarter-master in major-general Lambert's troop in Scotland; till, being disabled by sickness, he returned home about the year 1649. At this time he was a member of the Independent party, and continued so till the year 1651, when the preaching of George Fox made him a convert to the communion of the Quakers, as they are called. Among them he soon commenced preacher, and, according to their judgment, acquitted himself well both in speaking and writing.

[Sidenote: J. Nayler, the Quaker, a remarkable fanatic;]

[Sidenote: becomes a soldier.]

In the beginning of the following year he imagined he heard a voice, calling upon him to renounce his kindred and his father's house, and go into the west, promising that God would be with him. In obedience to this voice, which he believed to be the voice of God, he went about preaching from place to place, and greatly increased the numbers of the new sect. Towards the close of the year 1654, or early in 1655, he came to London, where he found a meeting of Friends which had been established by Edward Burrough and Francis Howgill, among whom he so greatly distinguished himself by his preaching, that many drew invidious comparisons between him and his brethren, which created uneasiness and differences in the society. To such a length did these proceed, that some women, admirers of Nayler, assumed the liberty of interrupting and disputing with Howgill and Burrough in the midst of their preachings, and thus disturbed the peace of the meetings. For this conduct they were reproved by these preachers; upon which they complained so loudly and passionately to Nayler, that he was weak enough to take their part, and was so intoxicated with their flattering praises, that he became estranged from his best friends, who strongly disapproved of and lamented his conduct. In the year 1658 we find him in Devonshire, where he was committed to Exeter jail for propagating his opinions. Here he received letters from some of his female admirers and others, written in the most extravagant strains, calling him the everlasting Son of righteous--the Prince of peace--the only begotten Son of God--the fairest among ten thousand, &c., and some of his followers kneeled before him in the prison, and kissed his feet. It is but justice, however, to the Quakers in general to mention, that they had now disowned Nayler and his adherents.

[Sidenote: Committed to Exeter Jail for blasphemy.]

Soon afterwards Nayler was released from imprisonment, and intended to return to London, but, taking Bristol in his way, as he passed through Glastonbury and Wells, his deluded attendants strewed their garments before him. When they came to Bedminster, about a mile from Bristol, they carried their extravagance to the highest pitch; for they formed a procession in imitation of our Saviour's entrance into Jerusalem, in which a man walked bare-headed before Nayler, and a woman led his horse, while other women spread their scarfs and hankerchiefs in the road, and the company sung, "Holy, holy, holy is the Lord God of hosts; Hosanna in the highest! holy, holy is the Lord God of Israel!" In this manner these mad people made their entrance into Bristol, marching through the mire and dirt, to the amazement of some, and the diversion of others; but the magistrates thought proper to interfere, and, after what had passed, committed them to prison. Soon afterwards they were sent to London and a committee was appointed by parliament to examine witnesses against Nayler, upon a charge of blasphemy, for admitting religious worship to be paid ti him, and for assuming the names and incommunicable titles and attributes of our blessed Saviour. Before the committee, he did not deny what was alleged concerning the extraordinary proceeding in Exeter jail, and at his entrance into Bristol; while defending himself by maintaining that the honours which he received were not shown to him, but to Christ who dwelt within him; and if they were offered to any other than to Christ, he disowned them.

[Sidenote: Extravagant conduct of his admirers.]

However, the committee having made a report to the house on the fifth of December, declaring the charge well founded, on the following day he was sent for, and heard at the bar; and on the eighth they resolved that "James Nayler is guilty of horrid blasphemy, and that he is a grand impostor, and a great seducer of the people." The next business to be determined on was, the nature of the punishment to be inflicted on him; which occupied the debate of the house, both on forenoons and afternoons, till the 16th of December, many members being for putting him to death, (and losing their vote, as secretary Thurloe informs us, only by fourteen voices,) while many other members totally disapproved of the severity which was used against him. At length, on the following day, after a considerable debate, the majority came to the resolution, "That James Nayler be set in the pillory, in the Palace-yard, Westminster, during the space of two hours, on Thursday next; and be whipt by the hangman through the streets from Westminster to the Old Exchange, and there likewise be set with his head in the pillory, for the space of two hours, between the hours of eleven and one on Saturday next; in each place wearing a paper, containing an inscription of his crimes: And that at the Old Exchange, his tongue be bored through with a hot iron; and that he be there also stigmatized in the forehead with the letter B: That he be afterwards sent to Bristol, and be conveyed into and through the said city on horseback, with his face backward, and there also publicly whipt the next market-day after he comes thither: And that from thence he be committed to prison in Bridewell, London, and there to labour hard till he be released by parliament; and, during that time, be debarred the use of pen, ink, and paper, and shall have no relief but what he earns by his daily labour."

[Sidenote: Condemned by the House of Commons for blasphemy.]

[Sidenote: Cruel sentence--his tongue bored with a hot iron.]

On the eighteenth of December, the first part of it was carried into execution with the greatest rigour; but he was brought into a state of such extreme weakness by his cruel whipping, that, upon repeated applications to the parliament, his punishment was respited for one week. The Protector was then addressed, and wrote a letter to the house, which, though it occasioned some debate, obtained no resolution in favour of the prisoner. On this the petitioners presented a second address to Cromwell; but, it is said the influence of the ministers prevented its effect.

[Sidenote: His punishment respited]

On the twenty-seventh of December, the remainder of Nayler's sentence was executed at the Old Exchange. Afterwards he was sent to Bristol, where he was publicly whipt, from the middle of Thomas-street, over the bridge to Broad-street. From Bristol, he was brought back to Bridewell, London, where he was confined about two years; during which his mind recovered from the frenzy which had governed it, and he felt deep humiliation and sincere repentance on account of his past conduct.

After the protector's death, Nayler was released from prison, and went to Bristol, where, in a public meeting, he made a confession of his offence and fall, in a manner so affecting as to draw tears from most of those who were present, and having afforded satisfactory evidence of his unfeigned contrition, was again received into the communion of his friends.

[Sidenote: His contrition and death.]

Nayler did not long survive his enlargement, for having left London in October 1660, with the intention of going home to his wife and children at Wakefield, he was taken ill in Huntingdonshire, where, it is said, he was robbed and left bound in a field. Whether he received any personal injury is not known, but being found towards evening by a countryman, he was carried to a friend's house, at Holm, near King's Ripon, where he expired in the month of December, when about 44 years of age. The expressions uttered by him about two hours before his death, both in justice to his name, which is so conspicuous in the history of the reveries of the human imagination, and on account of their own excellence, ought not to be omitted in the memoirs of his life.

"There is a spirit which I feel," said he, "that delights to do no evil, nor to revenge any wrong, but delights to endure all things, in hopes to enjoy its own in the end. Its hope is to outlive all wrath and contention, and to weary out all exaltation and cruelty, or whatever is of a nature contrary to itself. It sees to the end of all temptation: as it bears no evil in itself, so it conceives none in thoughts to any other. If it be betrayed, it bears it, for its ground and spring is the mercies and forgiveness of God. Its crown is meekness, its life is everlasting love unfeigned, and takes its kingdom with entreaty and not with contention, and keeps it by lowliness of mind."

His writings were collected together, and published in an octavo volume in 1716.

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter III: Part 3

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