Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter V: Part 5

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[C] ASHRIDGE was formerly called Escrug. In very early times this village is reported to have possessed a royal palace; which, when the estate became the property of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, son to Richard, King of the Romans, was converted into a college for Bonhommes (or monks who followed the rules of St. Augustine,) and endowed with the manors of Ashridge, Gaddesden, and Hemel Hempstead. A parliament was held here by Edward the First, in the year 1291; and, though of short continuance, it was distinguished by a spirited debate on the origin and necessary use of fines. After the dissolution, the monastery appears to have become the seat of royalty; and Norden describes it as the place "wherein our most worthy and ever famous Queen Elizabeth lodged, as in her owne, being a more statelie house." This queen, in the 17th year of her reign, granted it to John Dudley, and John Ayscough, who within the short period of a fortnight, conveyed it to Henry, Lord Cheny, whose lady sold it to Ralph Marshal, by whom it was again conveyed to Randolph Crew and others, and soon afterwards granted to Egerton, Lord Ellesmere, ancestor to the late Duke of Bridgewater; several of whose family are buried in the neighbouring church of Little Gaddesden. The old college, the greater part of which was standing in the year 1800, exhibited a fine specimen of the gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. The cloisters were particularly beautiful. The walls were painted in fresco with Scripture subjects. The late Duke of Bridgewater pulled down the whole of these buildings, the materials of which were disposed of in lots; the present earl, the dukedom being extinct, has erected a most magnificent mansion at a great expense. Ashridge Park, which contains some very fine oak and beech trees, is pleasingly varied with hill and dale. It is about five miles in circumference.

[Sidenote: A parliament held here by Edward I.]

[Sidenote: The manor house a favourite seat of Queen Elizabeth.]

[A] ASHTON. Near this village is Ashton Hall, a seat of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton. It formerly belonged to the family of the Laurences, but came into the present family by the marriage of James, Earl of Arran, afterwards Duke of Hamilton, with Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Lord Gerrard Digby, of Bromley. The mansion is a large building, with some square embattled towers, an ancient hall, and other features of a magnificent baronial castle. It is situated in a fine park, through which flows a small rivulet, forming a narrow bay, at the western side of the grounds. The park abounds with wood, and is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, and affords, from many parts, extensive views across the river Lune to Morecambe Bay, the Irish sea, &c. The mansion has undergone considerable alteration, yet care has been taken to preserve its ancient character.

_Mail_ arrives at Galgate Bridge, one mile distant, 9.20 P.M.;
departs 2.20 morn.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Hamilton.]

[B] ASHTON, or LONG ASHTON, is situated in a rich woody vale, protected on the north by a range of picturesque though bleak hills, and on the north lies the lofty ridge of Dundry. In this parish the inhabitants raise fruit and vegetables for the Bristol market. There is much garden-ground in Long Ashton, in which many Roman coins have been discovered. The houses are in general well-built, much company resorting thither during the summer season. The circumjacent scenery is delightful, and in the vicinity are the remains of two Roman encampments, Stokeleigh and Burwalls. The church is an old but very handsome building, founded by the family of Lyons; the nave and aisles are divided from the chancel by a beautiful gothic screen of fret and flower work, painted and gilt, and executed in the most admirable style. One of the 6 bells contained in the tower is inscribed "Sancte Johannes Baptiste ora pro nobis;" on the tower are the arms of Lyons, in stone. Amongst several painted figures and coats of arms on the glass of the windows, are the portraits of Edward IV. and his Queen, Elizabeth Widville. Here are several handsome monuments, but that of Sir Richard Choke and his lady is eminently magnificent and beautiful. Ashton Court, the manor house, originally founded by the Lyons family, but materially altered by Inigo Jones, occupies the S.E. slope of Ashton Down, and the remains of another old manor house, called the Lower Court, still stands in a valley to the S.W. of the village.

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From
+--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+
22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Lancaster|Manchester 7|Stockport 7|
22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | |
| o & chap } |Lancaster|Newton 3|Prescot 7|
7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | |
| to & pa } |Chester |Stockport 9|Manchester 7|
+--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+
22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Mottram 5| 186| 33597|
22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | |
| o & chap } |Wigan 5| 196| 5912|
7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | |
| to & pa } |Altringham 4| 184| 2078|
+--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE is a large town situated at the south-eastern extremity of the county. It consists of several narrow streets, built on a high bank, which rises from the river Tame. It appears from an ancient manuscript, that Ashton was formerly a borough, yet for some centuries it sent no members to Parliament; but, by the Reform Bill of 1832, it now returns one member, and the mayor of the town is the returning officer. The borough comprises the whole district, over which the lighting and paving act of the 7th and 8th of Geo. IV. extends. A court is held here for the recovery of debts, not exceeding five pounds, by 48th Geo. III. c. 18; any person may sue, under the general regulations, and defendants sued elsewhere are to have their costs. Defendants removing out of the jurisdiction, may be followed in person and goods, by removing the record to the superior courts, but wagers, &c. are not recoverable. The principal part of the landed property of this parish belongs to the Earl of Stamford, in whose family it was conveyed, by the marriage of Sir William Booth to the daughter of Sir Thomas Asheton, whose family possessed some peculiar privileges in this manor: among which was, the power of life and death over their tenantry. In commemoration of this privilege, and its having been sometimes exercised, a field near the old hall is still called Gallows Meadow. There is also an ancient custom here, called "riding the black lad," celebrated every Easter Monday, to perpetuate some act of great tyranny exercised by Sir Ralph Asheton, in 1483, when vice-constable of England. The ceremony consists in exhibiting the effigies of a man on horseback through the streets, which is afterwards suspended on the cross in the market place, and there shot. The figure was formerly cased in armour, and the expenses of it were defrayed by the court. Another account of the origin of this custom states, that Thomas Asheton, in the reign of Henry III., particularly distinguished himself at the battle of Neville's Cross, and bore away the standard from the Scotch King's tent. For this heroic deed the King conferred on Ashton the honour of Knighthood, who, on his arrival at his manor instituted the custom described. At the village of Fairfield, in this parish, there is a Moravian settlement, who have erected a chapel for their followers. The males are principally employed in spinning and weaving: they form a very industrious and orderly community. On the western side of the town is Ashton Moss, which supplies the poor with peat turf. Oak and fir trees are frequently found by those who dig for the peat.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, March 23, April 29, July 25, and
November 21, for horned cattle, horses, and toys.--_Bankers_,
Buckley, Roberts, and Co.; draw in London on Jones, Lloyd, and
Co.--_Inn_, Commercial Hotel.

[Sidenote: Court of Requests for the recovery of L5. Defendants may be followed.]

[Sidenote: The lord of the manor possessed a power of life and death.]

[Sidenote: Custom of riding the black lad.]

[Sidenote: Moravian settlement.]

[B] ASHTON. This village is generally called Ashton in Makerfield, or Ashton in the Willows; it enjoys a very pleasant situation on the road between Newton and Wigan. The hardware and cotton manufactories give employment to the inhabitants. The church is a large old building, part of which appears to have been erected by the lords of the manor. On the pews are some ancient carvings; and in the windows are exhibited some painted figures. Several of the Ashtons lie interred here, and their names are inscribed on the windows. Near the church is a curious mansion, called the Old Hall, the oldest parts of which are said to have been built in 1483; adjoining this stands a pile, which was formerly used as a prison.

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From
+--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+
41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Wilts |Trowbridge 3|Melksham 4|
41|Ashton, West to|Wilts | ... 3| ... 5|
21|Ashurst pa|Kent |Tunbridge 7|Tunbr. Wells 5|
38|Ashurst pa|Sussex |Steyning 4|Henfield 3|
11|Ashwater pa|Devon |Holsworthy 7|Oakhampton 14|
18|Ashwell[B] pa|Herts |Baldock 4|Royston 6|
32|Ashwell pa|Rutland |Oakham 4|Cottesmere 3|
27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Norfolk |Wymondham 3|Attleburgh 7|
34|Ashwick pa|Somerset |Shepton Mall 4|Frome 9|
27|Ashwicken pa|Norfolk |Lynn 5|Castle Rising 5|
35|Ashwood ham|Stafford |Stourbridge 4|Dudley 3|
22|Ashworth chap|Lancaster|Rochdale 3|Bury 3|
43|Aske to|N.R. York|Richmond 2|Reeth 8|
+--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+
41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Devizes 7| 96| 1754|
41|Ashton, West to| ... 9| 98| 374|
21|Ashurst pa|Groombridge 2| 34| 206|
38|Ashurst pa|W. Grinstead 4| 47| 423|
11|Ashwater pa|Launceston 8| 209| 862|
18|Ashwell[B] pa|Biggleswade 6| 41| 1072|
32|Ashwell pa|Overton 3| 99| 209|
27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Buckenham 7| 100| 471|
34|Ashwick pa|Wells 6| 118| 995|
27|Ashwicken pa|Swaffham 10| 98| 80|
35|Ashwood ham|Wolverhamp. 6| 123| ...|
22|Ashworth chap|Manchester 11| 192| 294|
43|Aske to|Darlington 11| 235| 105|
+--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+

[A] ASHTON, or STEEPLE ASHTON is remarkable for its lofty and elegant church, which was built about the year 1480, though the chapels and a part of the chancel appear of a still earlier date. The tower which is high and handsome, was formerly surmounted by a spire or steeple, whence the village had its distinctive appellation. An inscription informs us that, in the year 1670, the spire being in height 93 feet above the tower, was rent by a violent thunder storm, and that in the same year, being almost re-erected, it was by a second storm again destroyed. The roof of the nave is formed by intersecting arches, which rest on canopied niches, adorned with whole length figures or flowers; and that of the aisles is profusely decorated with sculpture and tracery work, while the windows display some splendid remains of painted glass, the whole corresponding with the exterior in style and effect. Plot informs us that there was dug up at Steeple Ashton, a pavement, which he considered to be Roman, though different in materials and design from those commonly regarded as such. The Madrepore stone is found among the fossil productions of Ashton. Rowd Ashton, the seat of Richard Godolphin Long, Esq., is situated in a large and well wooded park. The Kennet and Avon canal from London to Bristol passes near this village.

[Sidenote: The church steeple twice thrown down by storms.]

[B] ASHWELL. This village, situate on the river Rhee, on the borders of Cambridgeshire, derives its present name from Escewelle, and is supposed by Camden to be of Roman origin, from the frequent discovery of Roman coins, and sepulchral urns, in an adjacent earthwork, or fortification, called Arbury banks. It is in a low situation on the northern edge of the county. Here a considerable spring breaks out from a rocky bank overhung with lofty ash-trees, from which a continued quantity of water flows, and being quickly collected into one channel, turns a mill, and soon after becomes a river. From this spring and these ash-trees, it is supposed the Saxons gave it the name of Ashwell. The village was anciently a demesne of the Saxon kings; but before the time of Edward the Confessor, it was granted to the Abbots of St. Peter's, at Westminster, to whom it continued to belong till the dissolution, when the Abbey was erected into a deanery, and after that into a bishopric; it, however, followed the fate of similar foundations; and when the bishopric was dissolved, in the reign of Edward VI., it was granted, with other manors, to the see of London, in which it is still invested. The church consists of a nave, aisle, and chancel, with a tower at the west-end, surmounted by a spire. In the chancel are several slabs, formerly inlaid with brasses. Among the inscriptions, Weever notices one with the words, "Orate pro--Walter Sommoner." "I reade," says Weever, "that one Walter Sumner held the manor of Ashwell of the King, by pettie sergeantie; viz. to find the king spits to rost his meate upon the day of his coronation: and John Sumner, his sonne, held the same manor by service, to turne a spit in the king's kitchen upon the day of his coronation."

[Sidenote: Powerful spring oozing from a rock.]

[A] ASKERNE. This village is one of the numerous places in the West Riding, which enjoys the distinction of a mineral spring. The water resembles that of Harrowgate Spa; but taken internally, differs materially in its operation, acting chiefly as a diuretic without any of that cathartic or purgative power, for which the Harrowgate waters are so remarkable. The village is situated at the foot of a hill; the spring rises at the distance of a few yards only from a piece of water called Askerne Pool, seven acres in extent, and is much frequented by rheumatic or scorbutic patients, who seldom fail to obtain the relief which they seek. Near this place it is said the British Prince Ambrosius defeated and put to death the fierce Saxon leader Hengist.

[Sidenote: The Saxon leader Hengist put to death.]

[B] ASKERTON. At this village there is a castle which was built by the Barons Dacre. This well known name is derived from the exploits of one of their ancestors at the siege of Acre, or Ptolemais, under Richard Coeur de Lion. There were two powerful branches of that name. The first family, called Lord Dacres of the South, held the castle of the same name, and are ancestors to the present Lord Dacre. The other family, descended from the same stock, were called Lord Dacres of the North, and were Barons of Gillesland and Graystock. A chieftain of the latter branch was warden of the West Marshes, during the reign of Edward VI. He was a man of a hot and obstinate character, as appears from some particulars of Lord Surrey's letter to Henry VIII., giving an account of his behaviour at the siege and storm of Jedburgh. The castle was formerly garrisoned by the Serjeant of Gillesland, who sometimes commanded and led the inhabitants against the Scots.

[Sidenote: Seat of Lord Dacre.]

[C] ASKHAM. This place consists of two manors. The hall, built in 1574, on the river Lowther, has an embattled roof, and a sombre aspect well suited to the gloom of the surrounding scenery. Several remarkable heaps of stones, among which, one is called the Druid's Cross, are in this neighbourhood; and also a large cairn, called the White-raise.

_Mail_ arrives at Lowther 1-1/2 miles distant 2.30 morning; departs 8
evening.

[Sidenote: Druid's Cross.]

[D] ASKRIGG. This ancient market town is situated near the river Ure and Swaledale Forest: it resembles a large village, and the occupations of the inhabitants are principally the knitting of stockings and making butter or cheese. It is remarkable, chiefly, for some considerable cataracts in its neighbourhood: as Millgill Force, a fall of from twenty to thirty yards; Whitfields Force, a grand specimen of the picturesque; and Hardrow Force, where the water falls in one grand sheet from a perpendicular height of one hundred feet. This town is one of the polling places appointed under the Reform Bill of 1832, for the North Riding.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, May 10, horned cattle; May 12, and
first Thursday in June, woollen cloth, pewter, brass, and milliners'
goods; October 28, horned cattle; October 29, woollens, &c.

[Sidenote: Cataract 100 feet in height.]

[A] ASLACKBY. In this village, which is on the direct road from London to Lincoln, there was a commandery, or associated body of Knights Templars, founded in the time of Richard I., by John le Mareshall. It afterwards served for the hospitallers, and at the suppression of this society, the property was transferred to Edward, Lord Clinton. A farm-house, which now occupies the site of the old circular church, is called the temple. Of that ancient structure there yet remains a square embattled tower of two stories. The lower story is vaulted, and formed of eight groins, in the centre of which is displayed eight shields, and various coats of arms. The parish church is a handsome building, with an embattled tower at the west end. A castle formerly stood here, but no vestiges of the walls can now be seen: remnants, however, of the foss and earthworks point out the spot where it was situated.

_Mail_ arrives 7.40 morn.; departs 6.45 evening.

[Sidenote: Ancient village.]

[B] ASPATRIA, or ASPATRIC, is a long straggling village on the side of a hill, about five miles distant from the Irish sea. It now forms part of the estate of the Earl of Egremont, but is supposed to have derived its name from Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar. On removing the earth of a barrow, which stood at Beacon-hill, an eminence about 200 yards to the north of the village, in the year 1790, a human skeleton was found in a kind of chest, or kistvaen, formed by two large cobblestones at each end, and the same on each side. The feet were decayed and rotted off, but from the head to the ancle-bone, the skeleton measured seven feet. On exposure to the atmospheric air the other bones soon mouldered away. Near the shoulder, on the left side, was a broad sword five feet long, the guard of which was elegantly inlaid with silver flowers: a dirk, or dagger, lay on the right side; it was one foot and a half long, and the handle seemed to have been studded with silver. There were likewise found part of a golden fibula, or buckle, a broken battle-axe, an ornament for the end of a belt, a part of which yet remained, part of a spur, and a bit resembling a modern snaffle. Various figures, rudely sculptured, remained on the stones which enclosed the left side of the chest; they chiefly represented circles, each having within a cross in relief. Hayman Rooke, Esq., the learned antiquary, from whose account the above particulars are taken, supposed that the personage whose remains were found was buried soon after the first dawning of Christianity; and also, inferred from the rich ornaments found in the tomb, that he was a chieftain of high rank.

[Sidenote: Prodigious skeleton, 7ft. from the head to the ancle-bone.]

[Sidenote: Ancient relics found.]

[C] ASSENDON. At this township is a land spring, reputed the most eminent of its kind in England. The water only appears after a continuance of wet weather, but then issues forth in such abundance, that mills might be turned by the current, and the adjacent lowlands are inundated. This spring has been supposed by some to act on the principle of a natural syphon, and to be supplied from subterranean sources; but this is evidently erroneous, as the seasons of its flowing are uniformly after heavy rains.

[Sidenote: Wonderful spring.]

[A] ASTBURY, or AUSTBURY, is an extensive village and contains several gentlemen's seats. The church is a handsome gothic structure, with a lofty steeple. In the church yard are two ancient monuments, ornamented with the insignia of knighthood, but the names of the families whose memories they were intended to record are now lost. The parish of Astbury contains no less than twelve townships, of which the market town of Congleton is one. Each of these townships has its overseer and other officers, but the whole parish is under the government of one church-warden, the office of which is served in rotation by eight persons, vulgarly denominated the "Posts of the Parish;" though they should properly be called Provosts.

[Sidenote: Contains 12 townships.]

[B] ASTHALL. At this village is an old manorial mansion, now used as a farm-house, which was formerly the residence of Sir Richard Jones, one of the Judges of the Court of Common Pleas in the reign of Charles the First. In the north aisle of the church stands a large stone coffin, said to contain the remains of Alice Corbett, concubine to Henry I.

_Mail_ arrives 5 morning; departs 9.35 evening.

[Sidenote: Alice Corbett.]

[C] ASTLEY. This manor was held, in the reign of Henry II., by Philip de Estley, of the Earl of Warwick, by the service of holding the Earl's stirrup when he mounted or alighted from his horse. From this person are descended two families, seated at Hill Morton, in this county, and at Patshull, in Staffordshire. In the reign of Henry V. the estate passed by marriage to the Greys of Ruthin, from whom it descended to Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset, and Duke of Suffolk, beheaded in the reign of Queen Mary, for an attempt to make Lady Jane Grey queen. The manor belongs at present to F.P. Newdigate, Esq. Astley Castle is surrounded by a moat, along the inner edge of which lie the remains of massive walls. The habitable part of the mansion is probably not older than the time of Mary; but it is clad in a garb of ivy, and other evergreens, which renders it singularly picturesque. In one room is preserved a portrait of the factious Suffolk, respecting whose capture the following particulars are related:--"Finding that he was forsaken, he put himself under the trust of one Underwood, as it is said, a keeper of his park here at Astley, who hid him for some few days in a large hollow tree, standing about two bow-shots from the church; but, being promised a reward, he betrayed him." The church of Astley having been made collegiate, by Lord Thomas de Astley, was by him rebuilt, and adorned with a spire, so lofty that it served as a land-mark in the deep wood-lands of the district, and was popularly termed "The lanthorn of Arden."--The interior is curious and interesting, although many monuments and decorations have been removed or destroyed at various times. On an altar-tomb at the west-end are the effigies, in alabaster, of a warrior and a lady; and on another, is the mutilated figure of a female in a recumbent posture: both are without inscription.

[Sidenote: Singular tenure.]

[Sidenote: Lord Suffolk betrayed by his keeper.]

[D] ASTLEY. This village is situated on the Severn, it was noted before the dissolution, for its priory of Benedictines, and is now remarkable chiefly for a hermitage formed in the living rock, and recently converted into an ale-house. The church, built in the Saxon style of architecture, contains some monuments and a few fragments of stained glass. Here is the ancient seat called Glasshampton.

[Sidenote: Hermitage.]

[A] ASTON. The village and manor of Aston was an ancient demesne of the Saxon kings. Henry VIII. granted the manor to Sir John Boteler, of Walton Wood Hall; but the house now standing at Aston Place, indicates earlier antiquity than the time of that sovereign. Westward of the village, on the eastern side of the great North road, are six large barrows, thought to be of Danish origin; from their immediate proximity to the road-side they excite the curiosity and attention of most persons travelling northward: two of them have been opened, but were not found to contain any thing of sufficient interest to be here recorded.

[Sidenote: The six hills.]

[B] ASTON is in the Birmingham division of the Hundred of Hemlingford. It may be deemed a part of Birmingham, being inhabited chiefly by artisans in the various branches of manufacture for which that town is distinguished. Aston Hall, the seat of Heneage Legge, Esq., was first erected by Sir Thomas Holt, Bart. in the reign of James I. It was several times plundered during the troubles of his successor, who was entertained here for two nights a short time before the battle of Edgehill, which occurred on October 23, 1642, between the Royalists and the Parliamentary forces. Sir T. Holt endowed an alms-house for five poor men and women in this parish.

[Sidenote: Part of Birmingham.]

[C] ASTON, is a parish and township with Aughton, in the wapentake of Strafforth and Tickhill. In the church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is an ancient monument, under which lie buried Lord D'Arcy and his three wives. There is also a marble slab to the memory of the poet Mason, who was rector of this parish. This distinguished poet was the son of a clergyman in Yorkshire, in which county he was born in the year 1725. He became a student of St. John's College, Cambridge, and subsequently a fellow of Pembroke Hall, in the same university. His debut in the literary world was made by the publication of "Isis," a poem, in which he satirized the Jacobitish and High Church principles of the University of Oxford. A reply was written by Thomas Warton, entitled "The Triumph of Isis." In 1752 he published a tragedy with choral odes on the ancient Greek model, called "Elfrida." Having taken orders in the church, he was presented with the living of Aston, and appointed one of the royal chaplains. In 1759 appeared his "Caractacus," a drama on a kindred plan with the former. Both of these pieces were afterwards introduced on the stage, they however met with very little success. In 1762, Mr. Mason was made precentor of York, to which preferment a canonry was annexed. One of his principal works, entitled "The English Garden," a poem, in four books, appeared in the years 1772, 1777, 1779, and 1781. 4to.; this was translated into French and German. In 1775 he published the exquisite poems of his friend Gray, with a Memoir of his Life. At the beginning of the American War, Mr. Mason became so active an advocate for freedom, as to give offence at court, and he was in consequence dismissed from his chaplainship. It is said he felt alarmed at the frightful consequences of the French Revolution, and his zeal cooled towards the latter end of his life. He died April 7, 1797.

[Sidenote: The poet Mason's monument.]

[Sidenote: An advocate for freedom dismissed from his chaplainship.]

[A] ASTON CLINTON is in the first division of Aylesbury hundred. The manor was the property of the late Lord Lake, who died in 1808, during the trial of General Whitelock, who was cashiered for his misconduct at Buenos Ayres at the commencement of that year. At St. Leonard's, a hamlet of this parish, about four miles from Aston church, is an ancient chapel, said to have been a chantry chapel to the Abbey of Missenden. It contains, among other monuments, that of General Cornelius Wood, an officer who distinguished himself in the reign of Queen Anne, and who died in 1712. It is ornamented with a bust of the general in white marble, surrounded with military trophies. This chapel is endowed with an estate, vested in ten trustees, who have the appointment of the minister.

[Sidenote: Monument of one of Queen Anne's officers.]

[B] STEEPLE ASTON. At this village, Dr. Samuel Radcliffe, principal of Brazennose College, Oxford, and rector of this church, founded a free school in 1640, and endowed it with ten pounds per annum; he died in the year 1648, and is buried in the church. He also endowed an alms-house for poor women in this parish. A tessalated pavement was ploughed up here in the 17th century.

[Sidenote: Dr. Samuel Radcliffe.]

[C] ASTROPE. This hamlet is in the parish of King's Sutton. The village is worthy of remark, from the church having a tower crowned with a handsome and lofty spire, decorated with crocketed pinnacles. Here is a remarkably fine mineral spring, called St. Rumbald's Well, which was formerly in considerable repute. When drank at the fountain head, the water is considered a specific in cases of female obstructions, and in the first and second stages of consumptions. In the jaundice it seldom fails; and in dropsical cases is frequently administered with success. Persons whose constitutions have been weakened by free living, find themselves renovated by its virtues. The water has a brisk pleasant taste, and is very clear and spirituous. Astrope Hall was formerly the residence of the Lord Chief Justice Willes.

[Sidenote: A mineral spring famous for curing consumption, jaundice, &c.]

[D] ASTWELL. In this hamlet is an ancient mansion, formerly the seat of the Earl of Ferrers. Several of the rooms exhibit in the wainscot and chimney pieces, armorial bearings and other carved decorations. A dilapidated room at the east end was formerly a chapel.

[Sidenote: Seat of Earl Ferrers]

[A] ST. ATHAN. In this village is a castle, called East Orchard, built in the year 1691, by Roger Berkrols; it stands on the edge of an extensive flat: a luxuriant wild fig tree grows out of the cement of the chapel walls. Perhaps the Turkey fig tree might be propagated with more success, grafted upon this wildling, which probably originated in the cultivated fig planted in the gardens of the Norman lords. In St. Athan's church there are two uncommonly fine gothic monuments of the Berkrol's family: there are likewise in this parish the remains of two castles--West Orchard and Castleton; but these are not of such great antiquity. From this spot there is a good view of Fonmore, or Fronmon Castle, which is the most extensive and august of the Welch inhabited castles. The kitchen is said to be the largest in the kingdom. In Fronmon castle is an excellent portrait of Oliver Cromwell. The flat and steep-holms are seen from this neighbourhood: the former has its light-house. It is situated nearly ten miles from the sea lock of the canal, and three miles from the adjacent steep-holms, which is a smaller island than the former, though more conspicuous from its great height above the water; it is quite barren and uninhabited. The flat holms at low tide is an extensive sheet of mud, excepting one deep channel. The landing place is near the castle rock, a dangerous, but romantic beach, so called from its similarity to a castle, it is very large, and is said to resemble Abergavenny castle. In the centre is a bold arch, which at high water is covered. The hollow sound of the sea roaring through the arch, and the waves occasionally retreating, and then forcing their way back with redoubled fury, has an uncommonly fine effect. At low tide the shore all around the base is dry. The island is four or five miles in circumference; the soil is good, and would, if well cultivated, be very productive. From the light-house, which is 80 feet in height, is a delightful prospect of the Bristol Channel and the shores of Somerset and Glamorgan. It is the resort of many visitors in the summer season.

[Sidenote: The largest inhabited castle in Wales.]

[Sidenote: Account of the dangerous beach.]

[B] ATHERSTONE. This market town is supposed to have derived its name from "a stone" under which an "adder" of enormous size was found; it is situated on the Watling Street, and divided from Leicestershire by the river Anker, and was a place of some importance at the Conquest: at which time the town was given to the monks of Bee in Normandy, who obtained for it a market day and an annual fair, which brought it into consequence. A monastery of friars, (Hermits of Saint Augustine,) was founded at Atherstone in the year 1375. The church belonging to the friary was completed in the reign of Richard II. A free grammar school was founded here by Sir William Devereux and two other benevolent persons in the year 1573. The chancel of the friary church was appropriated to the use of this seminary, and is still dedicated to the same purpose. The mansion, or hall house was sometime after separated from the chapel, and rebuilt at a short distance upon a pleasant bank, commanding an extensive view over the adjacent counties of Leicester, Derby, and Stafford. Two nights before the battle of Bosworth Field (which is but nine miles distant), the Duke of Richmond lay at Atherstone, where he had his interview with the two Stanley's, in which such measures of co-operation were concerted as occasioned the overthrow of King Richard III., and it is said, that many persons from the subsequent battle were buried below this old mansion, from which the spot has retained the name of the bloody bank. It appears, however, to have been so called from being the place where contests of less serious results were usually decided by the young champions of the ancient foundation school, which is still supported by a respectable endowment. Atherstone Hall has recently been much improved by extended buildings and ornamental plantations. It is situated near Merevale Hall, the seat of D.S. Dugdale, Esq., and Grendon Hall, that of Sir G. Chetwynd, Bart. Here are manufactories of hats, ribbons, and shalloons, and considerable business is done at the four annual fairs; that in September being the most considerable in England for the sale of cheese. The passage of the Coventry canal, uniting with that of the Trent and Mersey, within a hundred yards of the town, adds very considerably to its facilities of trading. The poet Drayton, author of the "Polyolbion," was a native of Atherstone.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, April 7, for horses, cows, and sheep;
July 18, holyday; September 19, for horses, cows, and cheese;
December 4, for horses and fat cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 8.41 A.M.;
departs 5.36 P.M.--_Inns_, Red Lion, and Three Tuns.--_Bankers_, W.
and J.H. Chapman; draw upon Spooner and Co.

[Sidenote: Some foreign monks obtained this market.]

[Sidenote: Atherstone Hall.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From
+--+------------------------+----------+-------------+------------+
39|Atherstone-upon-Stour pa|Warwick |Stratford 3|Shipston 9|
22|Atherton, or } |Lancaster |Newton 7|Bolton 5|
|Chowbents to & chap } | | | |
10|Atlow chap|Derby |Ashbourn 4|Wirksworth 6|
51|Atpar m.t.|Cardigan |Newcastle 1|Cardigan 10|
30|Attenborough[A] pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 6|Derby 10|
24|Atterly to|Lincoln |Mar. Rising 9|Brigg 10|
45|Attercliffe to|W.R. York |Sheffield 2|Rotherham 4|
23|Atterton ham|Leicester |Atherstone 3|Hinckley 6|
31|Attington ex. p. ham|Oxford |Tetsworth 1|Thame 3|
27|Attleborough[B] m.t. & p|Norfolk |Norwich 15|Buckenham 4|
+--+------------------------+----------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+------+
39|Atherstone-upon-Stour pa|Campden 9| 92| 87|
22|Atherton, or } |Wigan 7| 198| 4181|
|Chowbents to & chap } | | | |
10|Atlow chap|Derby 13| 139| 517|
51|Atpar m.t.|Carmarthen 21| 230| |
30|Attenborough[A] pa|Loughboro' 10| 119| 1094|
24|Atterly to|Gainsboro' 12| 148| 110|
45|Attercliffe to|Barnsley 13| 162| 3741|
23|Atterton ham|Nuneaton 5| 105| 76|
31|Attington ex. p. ham|Watlington 6| 42| 7|
27|Attleborough[B] m.t. & p|Watton 10| 94| 1939|
+--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+------+

[A] ATTENBOROUGH. This village, supposed to be the ancient Attenton, lies nearly on the banks of the river Trent. Its church is large, and also well filled: it serves for Chilwell, Toueton, and part of Bramcote. This place is remarkable, for having given birth to Henry Ireton, the regicide, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. He was the eldest son of Gervase Ireton, Esq., and brother to Sir John Ireton, Lord Mayor of London in 1658. He was a gentleman commoner of Trinity College, Oxford, in 1629, and at the age of 19 he took one degree in Arts. Wood tells us, that he had the character in that college of a stubborn and saucy fellow towards the seniors. Afterwards he went to the Middle Temple, where he became grounded in the common law. When the rebellion broke out he took up arms against the king, was a recruiter in the long parliament, and about that time married Bridget, one of the daughters of Cromwell, then only colonel of a regiment. He became first a captain, afterwards colonel, and at length commissary-general, in 1645. He is said to have been the best prayer-maker and preacher in the whole army. He drew up the famous remonstrance requiring justice to be done on their sovereign. He sat as judge on the king's trial, and was one of the committee that appointed the time and place of execution. In Cromwell's expedition to Ireland, he was appointed second in command, with the rank of major-general, and was afterwards made president of Munster; being left as deputy by Cromwell, in 1649, he died the next year of a sudden disorder at Limerick. On his death, the parliament settled a pension of L2000. per annum on his widow and children, out of the estates of the Duke of Buckingham.

[Sidenote: Birth-place of the regicide, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell.]

[B] ATTLEBOROUGH, or ATTLEBURGH. This small market town was formerly a place of considerable consequence. During the Saxon era it was a post of strength and served as a check to the Danes in their predatory incursions. Its fortifications are said to have been conspicuous in the time of Henry II. Attleborough formerly belonged to the Mortimers; from them it passed to the Ratcliffe family, of whom it was purchased by Sir Francis Blickley, Bart., whence it came into possession of the family of Ash. A college, dedicated to the Holy Cross, was founded here in the reign of Richard II., by Sir Robert de Mortimer, for a custos and four fellows. The church, with the east end is entire; it is in the collegiate form, and consists of a large nave with aisles and a north and south transept; it contains the monuments of many persons of distinction. On a flat stone in the nave is an inscription to the memory of Captain John Gibbs, a celebrated horse racer and gamester, in the reign of Charles I. This person having laid a wager that he would drive his carriage and four horses up and down the steepest place of the Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket Heath, succeeded in winning the bet, by making a very light chaise, with a jointed perch, and without any pole. It is worthy of remark, that the first turnpike road in the kingdom, was made at Attleborough, by an Act passed for that purpose in 1707.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Thursday before Easter; Thursday after
Holy Trinity; August 15, for cattle and Toys.--_Mail_ arrives 7.27
A.M.; departs 6.38 P.M.

[Sidenote: Anecdote of Captain J. Gibbs.]

Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+--------+--------------+--------------+
39|Attleborough ham|Warwick |Nuneaton 1|Coventry 9|
27|Attlebridge pa|Norfolk |Reepham 5|Aylesham 8|
46|Atwicke to & pa|E.R.York|Hornsea 2|Bridlington 12|
24|Auborn to & pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 8|Newark 10|
13|Auckland, St.} | | | |
| Andrew[A]} to & pa|Durham |Bp. Auckland 1|Darlington 11|
13|Auckland, St. Helen ch|Durham | ... 3| ... 10|
13|Auckland, West to|Durham | ... 3| ... 10|
14|Audley End[B] ham|Essex |Saff. Walden 1|Newport 2|
7|Audlem to & pa|Chester |Nantwich 6|Whitchurch 9|
+--+----------------------+--------+--------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+-----------------------+--------------+
39|Attleborough ham|Hinckley 5| 100| |
27|Attlebridge pa|Norwich 9| 112| 117|
46|Atwicke to & pa|Beverley 13| 189| 285|
24|Auborn to & pa|Navenby 6| 127| 356|
13|Auckland, St.} | | | |
| Andrew[A]} to & pa|Durham 11| 248| 11137|
13|Auckland, St. Helen ch| ... 13| 246| 410|
13|Auckland, West to| ... 13| 246| 1106|
14|Audley End[B] ham|Chesterford 4| 42| |
7|Audlem to & pa|Woore 5| 163| 2978|
+--+----------------------+-----------------------+----+---------+

[A] ST. ANDREWS, AUCKLAND. This place is celebrated for the church having been made collegiate by Bishop Beck, although it is probable there was some foundation here before the time of that prelate. The edifice is situated on a rising ground, in a valley near the banks of the river Gaunless, and has the form of a cross with a tower at the west end. In the inside is a curious wooden figure, said to be an effigy of one of the family of Polland, which represents a knight sitting cross-legged and dressed in a coat of mail, with his hands raised and his feet resting on a lion.

[Sidenote: Curious effigy.]

[B] AUDLEY END is principally celebrated for its vicinity to Audley House, which was sold by the third Earl of Suffolk, to Charles II., for L50,000., the king, however, left a great part of the sum on mortgage. The present mansion, though a large and magnificent structure, consists only of a small part of the original building, owing to its curtailment at various times. When in its perfect state, it was esteemed one of the most splendid and capacious mansions in the country; and, if not superior, was nearly equal to the palaces of Hampton Court, Nonsuch, and Richmond. At the time when it was first built, large, rather than comfortable or handsome houses were fashionable. Influenced by these sentiments, Thomas Howard, the first Earl of Suffolk, (as Walpole observes,) determined to have "an immense pile of building," and L190,000. was expended upon its erection. It is said that, when the house was finished, King James was invited to see it. Having surveyed the structure with great astonishment, the earl asked him "how he liked it?" "Very well," replied James, "but troth man," continued he sarcastically, "it is too much for a king, but it may do for a Lord High Treasurer." An elegant domestic chapel, constructed by the late Lord Howard, occupies the north west corner of the house. It is fitted up with clustered columns, pointed arches, and fan like tracery; and, in imitation of a cathedral, it has a nave, side-aisles and transepts. The windows are filled with painted glass, by Pickett of York, who executed them in 1771, from Biaggio Rebecca's designs.

_Fair_, August 5, for cheese.

[Sidenote: Anecdote of James I.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+
35|Audley to & pa|Stafford |Newcastle 4|Leek 14|
22|Aughton chap|Lancaster |Lancaster 7|K. Lonsdale 8|
22|Aughton pa|Lancaster |Ormskirk 2|Liverpool 10|
46|Aughton[A] to & pa|E.R. York |Howden 7|Selby 7|
45|Aughton to|W.R. York |Rotherham 5|Sheffield 7|
24|Aukborough[B] pa|Lincoln |Barton 10|Burton 3|
30|Aukley to|Nottingham|Bawtry 5|Gainsboro' 13|
10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Derby |Mansfield 6|Chesterfield 7|
24|Aunsby pa|Lincoln |Folkingham 6|Sleaford 6|
15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | |
| ti. & chap}|Gloucester|Thornbury 4|Bristol 11|
+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
35|Audley to & pa|Congleton 9| 154| 3617|
22|Aughton chap|Burton 7| 217| 199|
22|Aughton pa|Prescott 10| 208| 1462|
46|Aughton[A] to & pa|York 11| 189| 665|
45|Aughton to|Tickhill 11| 156| |
24|Aukborough[B] pa|Howden 10| 172| 467|
30|Aukley to|Doncaster 6| 158| 297|
10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Bolsover 4| 144| 618|
24|Aunsby pa|Grantham 9| 112| 117|
15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | |
| ti. & chap}|Chepstow 5| 123| 203|
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+

[A] AUGHTON. This village is chiefly distinguished for having been the seat of an ancient and respectable family long since extinct, or dispersed. The Askes, who succeeded the family of Hai, resided here from about the year 1365, till the reign of Charles I., when the head of the family was one of the judges of that unfortunate monarch. Of this family, also, was Sir Robert Aske, a man of daring and enthusiastic courage, possessing considerable talents, who headed the insurrection called "the Pilgrimage of Grace," in the days of Henry VIII. Of the family seat, nothing remains but the site, marked by several moats.

[Sidenote: Once the seat of Sir Robert Aske.]

[B] AUKBOROUGH. Dr. Stukely having discovered a Roman castrum and a vicinal road here, supposed it to be the Aquis of Ravennas. The Roman station is square, each side 300 feet; the entrance is at the north, and the west side faces the steep cliff that over-hangs the Trent. The situation of this castle at the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, renders it a kind of watch tower over Nottingham and Yorkshire, which it surveys. The camp is now called "Countess Close," and tradition speaks of a Countess of Warwick having resided here. The vallum and ditch are nearly entire; a square plat called the "Oreen," is supposed to have been appropriated for the soldiers when on duty. Within this is a round walk into a labyrinth, called Julian's Bower; these bowers are usually found in the neighbourhood of Roman towns, and are objects of great curiosity to uninformed people. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion that they were the arena of some of their ancient games, brought into Italy from Troy, and that they derived their name from "borough," any work consisting of ramparts of earth, and not from "bower" an arbour. The views in this neighbourhood are very beautiful; the winding Trent with its rich level plains of meadow, all alive with herds of cattle; the cliff, commanding a noble view of the three rivers; the hanging woods and ornamented walks, all form a great contrast to what Lincolnshire is often represented by those who have visited only the fenny parts of this fertile county.

[Sidenote: Julian's bower.]

[C] AUST, or AUST CLIVE. Here is a celebrated ferry over the Severn into South Wales. The Propraetor, Ostorius Scapula, was accustomed to ferry his legions over near this place. In the time of Edward the Elder, who was lying here with his army, Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, was stationed at Beachley, on the opposite bank. Llewellyn, who was required to pay homage to the English Sovereign, refused to cross the passage; but Edward immediately crossing in a boat, was seen, as he approached the shore by Llewellyn, who, overcome by the condescension, rushed into the water, and taking the monarch upon his shoulders, carried him to land, and did him homage for the principality. The Severn is here nearly two miles across.

[Sidenote: Celebrated passage into South Wales.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+
8|Austell, or St. }| | | |
| Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Cornwall |Truro 14|Lostwithiel 9|
45|Austerfield to & chap|W.R. York |Bawtry 2|Thorne 11|
7|Austerson to|Chester |Northwich 4|Frodsham 6|
+--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+
8|Austell, or St. }| | | |
| Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Grampound 6| 243| 8758|
45|Austerfield to & chap|Doncaster 9| 155| 280|
7|Austerson to|Tarporley 10| 177| 69|
+--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter V: Part 5

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