Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter VI: Part 6

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[A] ST. AUSTELL is a considerable market town, which belongs to the north-eastern division of the county, and is one of the polling places. The petty sessions of the hundred of Powder are held here. Considerable quantities of corn and other articles are brought to the market. The town is seated on the eastern side of a hill which slopes gradually to a rivulet which runs along a narrow valley; this stream, and the inequality of the ground, have been rendered eminently useful to the manufactories of the neighbourhood. The water which has been conducted round the side of the hills, in its course impels the machinery of several stamping-mills, which have been erected on different levels. It is also employed to cleanse and separate the tin from the pounded mass. Through its vicinity to the great tin mine of Polgooth, St. Austell has within the last sixty or seventy years, considerably increased in the number of its houses and inhabitants. The holding of the Blackmore Court here, which is the most considerable of the stannary courts, or courts relating to the tin works, have also contributed to augment its prosperity. The old town, or rather village, was at some little distance to the east, and its site is still marked by a few cottages; the present town is the regular thoroughfare for travellers from Plymouth to Falmouth; the streets are very narrow, and not having any pavement for foot passengers are somewhat unsafe. The only blowing houses in the county are at the east end of this town; they are three in number, and very spacious; the old smelting houses are supplied with coals, and are reverberatory; but in these blowing houses the fire is of charcoal, and ignited by air impelled through tubes by cylinders instead of bellows; this mode of fluxing the ore is considered by the workmen far preferable to the other. The inhabitants of this town, from its proximity to the sea, are principally employed in the pilchard fishery and in mining; there is however a small manufactory of serges. The parish church is a fine old fabric, consisting of three aisles; the tower and some other parts of the structure are fancifully ornamented; various carvings, monstrous heads, angels, and other figures appear on the cornices. From the repetition of the shovel, pick, hammers, and other tools, it seems probable that the miners were the principle contributors towards the expences of the building. In the year 1774, as some tinners were searching for tin in a stream work near the town, about seventeen feet under the surface of the ground, they discovered a silver cup, which is now used for wine at the Communion table, in which were several ancient pieces of gold and silver ornaments; they consisted of bracelets, rings, and buckles, evidently for a person of high rank, with many of the most curious Saxon coins ever discovered at one time. All these articles fell out on moving the ground, and some were probably lost in shovelling out the rubbish; those which were picked up were dispersed about the country, and many of them broken. The celebrated Pentuan stone quarry, from which the materials of many churches and family seats have been taken, is in this parish. Polgooth mine (before mentioned) was considered the richest ever worked in England, and is situated about two miles south-west of the town. The surrounding country appears for many miles bleak, desolate, and barren, yet its bowels contain vast treasures; though, as a talented author has observed, "like the shabby mien of a miser, its aspect does not correspond with its hoards." The shafts by which the miners descend, and through which the ore is raised to the surface, are scattered over a considerable extent of sterile ground, whose dreary appearance, and the sallow countenances of the miners, concur to excite ideas of gloom, apprehension, and melancholy. The number of shafts is not less than fifty, from twenty to thirty of which are constantly in use. When a stranger is induced to descend, he is previously accoutred in a flannel shirt and trowsers, a close cap, an old hat to shelter his face from droppings, and a thick pair of shoes. A lighted candle is put into one hand, and a spare one suspended to a button of his jacket. Every part of the ordinary clothing is laid aside, and the flannel dress worn close to the skin, in order to absorb the profuse perspiration which the closeness of the mine or the labour of mounting the ladders may occasion.

_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, Whit Thursday, and Nov. 30, for oxen,
sheep, and cloth.--_Mail_ arrives 12.35 afternoon; departs 10.27.
morning.

[Sidenote: Blackmore Court held here.]

[Sidenote: Silver cup found 17 ft. under ground.]

[A] AUSTHORPE. This township gave birth to the celebrated civil engineer John Smeaton, distinguished as the architect of Eddystone Light-house, and, as the conductor of various other important undertakings. He was the son of an attorney, who, observing that he had a strong taste for mechanics, wisely allowed him to follow the impulse of his genius, and become a mathematical instrument maker. He commenced business in that capacity, in Holborn, London, in 1750. His great undertaking--the erection of the light-house on the Eddystone rock, was accomplished in the year 1759, and it was executed in such a manner as almost to bid defiance to the power of time or accident. His death took place in his native village, September 8, 1792.--See Eddystone Light-house.

[Sidenote: Birth-place of Smeaton the architect.]

[B] AVEBURY or ABURY, is situated within the very area of a British temple, and claims the particular attention of the topographer and antiquary. The enclosure, which is formed by a wide and deep ditch, and a lofty external vallum, contains many large stones, some of which are erect, and the others lying on the ground. Southward of this place, at some distance, are other large stones, erect or prostrate; and, westward, are two others, erect. Several walls and houses of the village are constructed with broken masses of these ponderous monuments; yet enough remains to excite curiosity and prompt research. The following is a description of this great temple, in its original state:--Immediately within the ditch, and encompassing the whole area, was a continued series of large upright stones, consisting of one hundred in number; these stones were placed at the distance of twenty-seven feet from each other, and usually measured from fifteen to seventeen feet in height, and about forty feet in circumference. Within the area of this circle, the diameter of which was about 1400 feet, were two double circles; the exterior circles were about 466 feet in diameter, and formed by thirty stones of similar dimensions equally distant from each other, as in the large enclosing circle. Of these singular stones there are but few remaining; but from the extraordinary dimension of these relics of antiquity, the traveller may judge for himself the correctness of our notice.

_Mail_ arrives at Beckhampton Inn, (1 mile distant,) at 5.20 morning;
departs 9.45 night.

[Sidenote: A British temple formed of enormous stones.]

[C] AVERHAM. This place is principally remarkable for a monument contained in the church erected to the memory of Sir William Sutton, once lord of the manor, on which it is quaintly recorded that he had sixteen children, and an equal number of each sex; of whom the one half

"Ushered to heaven their father, and the other
Remained behind him to attend their mother."

[A] AVINGTON. Sir Francis Burdett is lord of this manor, and patron of the rectory. The church, which remains nearly in its original state, exhibits a curious specimen of Saxon architecture. Within the walls it measures 75 feet by 14 feet and a half. The nave is separated from the chancel by an arch richly ornamented by a zig-zag moulding, and a great variety of grotesque heads springing from two enriched piers; the arch is formed of the segments of two circles, each having different centres. In this church there is also a very singular font, of rude workmanship, surrounded with grotesque figures, executed in bass-relief; that is to say, sculpture, the figures of which do not stand out from the ground in their full proportion.

[Sidenote: Sir Francis Burdett.]

[B] AVINGTON, anciently Abyngton, is remarkable for its beautiful park, the seat of Chandos Grenville, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Lieutenant of the county of Bucks. The manor was originally a royal demesne, or estate in lands, and was given by king Edgar to the monastery of St. Swithin at Winchester, in the year 961; it continued in the possession of that house until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became the property of the clerks of Mitcheldever, (a village about five miles distant,) with whom it remained until the reign of Elizabeth; and then passed to the Bruges, or Brydges family, afterwards raised to the dukedom of Chandos. Anna Maria Brudenell, the infamous Countess of Shrewsbury, married one of this family; her former husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, died from a wound received in a duel with the Duke of Buckingham, during the fighting of which the Countess had the audacity to hold the horse of her gallant, disguised as a page. Charles the Second was frequently the guest of this notorious woman at the mansion of Avington, which thus became the scene of that licentious monarch's pleasures. The mansion, which is mostly built of brick, has been greatly improved since it came into the possession of the present proprietor. It is situated in a well planted and secluded valley, nearly environed with high downs, which from their bare and open state, form a singular though not unpleasing contrast with the scenery immediately contiguous to the house. Several of the apartments are fitted up with great elegance, and enriched by a choice collection of valuable paintings.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Buckingham.]

[Sidenote: A seat of one of the paramours of Charles II.]

[C] AXBRIDGE. This town is one of the polling places for the eastern division of the county of Somerset, but the court for the election of the Knights of the Shire is at Wells. The borough sent members to parliament during the reigns of the three first Edwards, but was afterwards excused on the plea of poverty. It consists chiefly of one street, winding from east to west, about half a mile in length. The shambles and market are towards the east end. Although so small, it is governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, bailiff, and ten aldermen, and twenty-two burgesses, with a recorder, town-clerk, and other officers. Knit hose are manufactured in this town. The church, occupying an eminence, near the market-house, is a large and handsome gothic structure, in the form of a cross. The cloth of the communion table is elegantly wrought in silk, by Mrs. Abigail, who employed seven years in completing it. This lady, and several of her family, have monuments in the church.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb 23, and March 25, for cattle,
sheep, cheese, and toys.--_Mail_ arrives 2.0 afternoon; departs 11.0
morning.

[Sidenote: A borough excused on a plea of poverty.]

Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+
11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Devon |Bridport 12|Honiton 10|
11|Axmouth pa|Devon |Colyton 3|Sidmouth 9|
13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham |Darlington 5|Sedgfield 7|
| to & p} | | | |
29|Aydon to|Northumb |Hexham 6|Corbridge 2|
29|Aydon-Castle to|Northumb | 6| 2|
15|Aylburton chap|Gloucester|Blakeney 5|Coleford 7|
11|Aylesbear to& pa|Devon |Ottery, St.M. 5|Exeter 10|
5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Bucks |Tring 7|Winslow 11|
| m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+
11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Lyme Regis 6| 147| 2719|
11|Axmouth pa| " " 6| 153| 646|
13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham 13| 246| 1564|
| to & p} | | | |
29|Aydon to|Newcastle 15| 277| 99|
29|Aydon-Castle to| 15| 277| 29|
15|Aylburton chap|Chepstow 8| 120| 388|
11|Aylesbear to & pa|Sidmouth 8| 166| 1025|
5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Wendover 5| 38| 4907|
| m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+

[A] AXMINSTER is very irregularly built, and the houses are inelegant, but the air of the town is reckoned highly salubrious. The petty sessions of the hundred of Axminster are held here. The lower orders are mostly employed in manufacturing carpets, leather breeches, gloves, &c. The manner of weaving carpets here is different from that pursued at most other places; the carpets being woven in the piece, and several hands employed at the same loom. The common patterns are flowers, roses, &c., though the Turkey and Persian carpets have been imitated with success. In many large pieces Roman tesselated pavements have been copied, which have produced a very rich effect. The tunnel between Charmouth and was opened in the month of January, 1832. This improvement is substantially constructed with an elliptic arch, capable of allowing two stage waggons of the largest size to pass on it, and is rather more than seventy yards in length. By the completion of this tunnel the longest and steepest hill between London and Exeter is avoided. A gentleman who visited the tunnel during the height of the ensuing summer, remarked the astonishing coolness which he felt within this hill's enclosed semi-cylinder; no sooner, however, had he left it, than he fainted from the difference of temperature between this subterraneous passage and that of the open air.

_Market_. Saturday--_Fairs_, St. Marks Day; April 30; Wednesday after
June 24; Wednesday after Oct 10.--_Mail_ arrives 1.20 afternoon;
departs 12.51 afternoon.

[Sidenote: Trade.]

[Sidenote: A remarkable tunnel through a lofty hill.]

[B] AYLESBURY. The AEglesbury of the Saxons, is a considerable market town, situated near the centre of the county, rising gradually on all sides in a rich and extensive tract, denominating the "Vale of Aylesbury." Drayton in his Poly-Albion has the following lines descriptive of this celebrated vale:--

Aylesbury's vale that walloweth in her wealth,
And (by her wholesome air continually in health)
Is lusty, firm, and fat; and holds her youthful strength.

This was originally a strong British town, which maintained its independence till the year 571, when it was reduced by the West Saxons. In the year 600, it became famous as the burial place of St. Osyth, who was born at Quarrendon, two miles distance, and beheaded in Essex by the Pagans. Her relics were interred in this church, and are said to have performed many miracles; a religious house was founded in honour of William the Conqueror, who parcelled it out under the singular tenure:--that the tenants should find litter or straw for the king's bedchamber three times a year, if he came that way so often, and provide him with three eels in winter, and three green geese in summer. In the reign of Henry VIII., the manor was sold by Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilts, father of Queen Anne Boleyn, to Sir John Baldwin, whose daughter took it in marriage to Robert Pakington, who was murdered in the year 1537, on account of his zeal for the reformed religion. It continued in this family till the year 1801, when it was sold by Sir John Pakington, Bart., to the Marquis of Buckingham. How completely the manor and the town itself were in the possession of the Pakington family, will appear from the following remarkable letter preserved in the Chapel of the Rolls, among the returns of Parliament writs of the fourteenth of Queen Elizabeth:--"To all Christian people, to whom this present writing shall come: I, Dorothy Pakington, late wife of Sir John Pakington, lord and owner of the town of Aylesbury, send greeting. Know ye me, the said Dorothy Pakington, to have chosen, named, and appointed my trusty and well-beloved Thomas Litchfield, and George Burden, Esqrs., to be my burgesses of my said town of Aylesbury; and whatever the said Thomas and George, burgesses, shall do in the service of the Queen's Highness in the Parliament to be holden at Westminster on the 8th of May next ensuing the date hereof, I the same Dorothy Pakington do ratify and approve to be of my own act as fully and wholly as if I were witness or present there. In witness whereof, to these presents, I have set my seal, this 4th day of May, in the 14th year of the reign of my Sovereign Lady Elizabeth, by the grace of God, of England, France, and Ireland, Queen, &c." Aylesbury was made a borough town by a charter of Queen Mary, in 1554. The Reform Bill has made no alteration in the number of members. The electors are those of the old constituency, consisting of freeholders of the hundred, and house-keepers not receiving alms; the freeholders of the hundred are estimated at 838; and the ten pound householders at 314; total 1152. The limits of the borough are unaltered, and the returning officers are the constables of the borough. The town is also one of the polling places for this county, which now returns three members. The county gaol is still at Aylesbury, but the Summer Assizes were restored to Buckingham, through the exertions of Lord Cobham and the Grenville family in the year 1758. The only manufacture at Aylesbury is that of lace-making: the weekly market is a very plentiful one for provision, and much business is done here at the annual fairs.

_Market_, Saturday--_Fairs_, Friday after Jan. 18; Saturday before
Palm Sunday; May 8; June 14; September 25; October 12, for cattle.
_Bankers_, Rickford and Son, draw on Praed's and Co--_Mail_ arrives
12.40 morning; departs 2.19 morning.--_Inns_, George, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: St. Osyth.]

[Sidenote: Singular tenure of this manor.]

[Sidenote: Remarkable Parliamentary writ.]

[A] AYLESFORD is seated on the banks of the Medway, by which the parish is divided. The church is so singularly situated, from being placed on a rising ground, that persons in the churchyard can almost look down the chimnies of the houses. The neighbourhood is famed as having been the spot where, we are told by ancient historians, a sanguinary battle was fought in 445, between the Britons and Saxons; the conflict having taken place about five years after the first landing of the latter in Britain. It appears from our chronicles that Vortimer, then monarch of this island, having first defeated his enemies on the banks of the Darent, in Kent, pursued their routed forces to Aylesford; at which place the Saxons had passed to the eastern side of the Medway, where a most obstinate and bloody battle took place between the contending armies, when the fate of the day, having long remained undecided, at length terminated favourably for the Britons. In that decisive affair, Horsa, brother of Hengist, the Saxon chief, and Catigrinus, brother to King Vortimer, are said to have contended hand to hand, when both died bravely upon the spot. Horsa, | if tradition may be credited, was interred about three miles north of Aylesford, at a spot still bearing the name of Horsted; that is to say, "the place of Horsa;" where, in the adjoining fields, large stones are still dispersed over the soil; some in erect positions, while others, from lapse of time, have been thrown down; being, there is little doubt, placed there as memorials of the Saxon warriors slain in that famous encounter. Prince Cartigrinus is supposed to have been inhumed still nearer the field of slaughter, on the summit of an acclivity, about one mile north of Aylesford, and a quarter of a mile west from the high road leading from Rochester to Maidstone; at which place, Kitt's Cotty House still stands, as represented in our engraving. This memorial consists of four large stones, of the pebble kind, two placed in the ground, being partly upright, forming two sides, a third standing in the middle between them, while the fourth, being the largest, is laid transversely over them, thus forming a covering. None of these stones bear the imprint of the chisel, or any sign whatsoever of manual labour. Alfred and Edmund Ironside defeated the Danes in this vicinity. Sir Charles Sedley, of poetical and dissolute notoriety, was a native of this place; as was also Sir Paul Rycaut, the celebrated eastern traveller.

[Sidenote: The site of a Saxon battle.]

[Sidenote: Kitt's Cotty House.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
27|Aylsham[A] m.t. & pa|Norfolk |Norwich 12|Cromer 11|
17|Aylton pa|Hereford |Ledbury 4|Ross 11|
17|Aymestery to & pa|Hereford |Leominster 9|Kington 11|
28|Aynho[B] pa|Northamp |Brackley 6|Banbury 7|
18|Ayott, St. Lawrence pa|Herts |Welwyn 3|Luton 7|
18|Ayott, St. Peter pa|Herts | 2|Hatfield 5|
43|Aysgarth to & pa|N.R. York|Middleham 9|Askrigg 4|
32|Ayston pa|Rutland |Uppingham 1|Okeham 6|
43|Ayton East to & pa|N.R. York|Scarborough 4|N. Malton 16|
43|Ayton West to|N.R. York| 5| 16|
43|Ayton Great to & pa|N.R. York|Stokesley 4|Guisboro' 5|
43|Ayton Little to & pa|N.R. York| 4| 5|
45|Azerley, or Cozenley to|W.R. York|Ripon 5|Masham 5|
+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+
27|Aylsham[A] m.t. & pa|Reepham 7| 118| 2334|
17|Aylton pa|Hereford 11| 124| 126|
17|Aymestery to & pa|Ludlow 11| 146| 1006|
28|Aynho[B] pa|Buckingham 11| 63| 664|
18|Ayott, St. Lawrence pa|St. Albans 7| 28| 134|
18|Ayott, St. Peter pa| 7| 25| 271|
43|Aysgarth to & pa|Reeth 7| 241| 5796|
32|Ayston pa|Rockingham 6| 90| 101|
43|Ayton East to & pa|Whitby 20| 217| 360|
43|Ayton West to| 20| 217| 256|
43|Ayton Great to & pa|Stockton 10| 240| 1105|
43|Ayton Little to & pa| 10| 240| 68|
45|Azerley, or Cozenley to|Bedale 11| 217| 579|
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+

[A] AYLSHAM is situated on the southern side of the river Brue, which is navigable hence to Yarmouth, for barges of about 13 tons burthen. Aylsham during the reigns of Edward II. and III., was the chief town in this part of the kingdom for the linen manufacture; but in succeeding reigns, that business was superseded by the woollen manufacture; and in the time of James I., the inhabitants were principally employed in knitting worsted stockings, breeches, and waistcoat pieces. Since the introduction of frame knitting, that trade has also been lost; the town is governed by a bailiff. Aylsham church is said to have been erected by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, the court of which duchy was at one period held here. There is a spa in the neighbourhood, the water of which has obtained considerable reputation for its medicinal properties in chronic disorders.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, March 23; last Tuesday in September for
lean cattle, ordinary horses, and pedlary; and October 6, for
cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 12.30 afternoon; departs 2.0
afternoon.--_Bankers_, Copeman and Co., draw upon Hankey and Co.

[Sidenote: Trade.]

[B] AYNHO is a large and respectable village seated on a rock, below which issues a powerful spring of water, called the Town Well, which after running through the vale below, contributes to the supply of the Charwell. The church contains numerous monuments, several of which belong to the Cartwright family, who have long been in possession of the manor, and whose descendant R.W. Cartwright, Esq., has a handsome seat, the interior of which is adorned with a fine collection of paintings. An hospital was founded here for poor and sick travellers. The building is still standing, but is now occupied as a private house.

[Sidenote: Town Well.]

[A] AIRE, (The) rises from a small lake on the moors of Yorkshire, north-east from Settle, descending through Aire-dale and Craven in its course to the south-east, which it pursues as far as Leeds, where, turning eastward, and meeting the Calder, it passes under Ferrybridge, flowing through the flattest portion of Yorkshire; and receiving the Don, a little north of Snaith, it unites with the Ouse above Booth Ferry, near Howden. This river is of greater extent than the Calder, and much its superior in navigation, being also joined by numerous canals from the west. Its origin is almost mountainous, in the midst of the wildest moors; and Aire-dale retains much of the same characteristic features of that line of country. The district of Craven is singularly romantic, being a rich vale, bounded by high hills, with the town of Skipton in its centre; below which it forms a beautiful valley to Keighley, full of trade and population; the Aire passes the picturesque ruin of Kirkstall Abbey, in its way to Leeds, the manufactories and villas of which flourishing place, and its vicinity, encompass its banks; after which it divides one of the richest plains in the kingdom to Ferrybridge, not far from the eminence where the town of Pontefract appears a conspicuous object, with its ruined castle and ancient church. Afterwards the Aire can boast little of beauty, as it advances through a level district to join the Ouse.

[Sidenote: Booth Ferry.]

[Sidenote: Kirkstall Abbey.]

[B] ALNE, (The) is a small river which rises on the border of Roxburgshire, but within the limits of Northumberland, and a little north of the source of the Coquet. The great and attractive objects which grace its borders are placed in the far-extended territory of the Duke of Northumberland, at the entrance to which the lofty building, called Brisley Tower, thickly environed by plantations, overlooks all the wild country of Northumberland, including the bold range of Cheviot-hills on the north-west, close to the Scottish border. The Alne then enters a charming valley, beneath the ivied walls of Hulne Abbey, winding delightfully between lawns, woods, and groupes of trees and cottages, admirably disposed. From these monastic and rustic recesses, the river emerges into a spacious park, widened considerably by art, and gliding through the arches of a fine Castellan bridge, is proudly overlooked by the numerous towers, and lofty citadel of Alnwick Castle, the superb seat of the Northumberland family.

[Sidenote: Brisley Tower.]

[Sidenote: Alnwick Castle.]

[C] ANCHOLME. This small river, rising in the wolds of Lincolnshire, not far from Market Raisin, is navigable from Glandford Bridge to the Humber, and in its course intersecting the extensive tract of the Wolds, which stretches out from Lincoln northward to Barton, and forms a ridge across some intermediate valleys, terminates in the fens near Spilsby Louth. Brocklesby Park, in the extensive domains of Lord Yarborough, occupies the centre of this district, on the highest point of which his lordship has built a superb chapel and mausoleum, in a very excellent Grecian taste, adorned with appropriate statues and marbles, from Italy. This building, from its position, commands the whole surrounding country, with the port of Hull, across the Humber; forming also a sea-mark, and an interesting object, admirable for the elegance of its design and execution. Thornton College is a curious remnant of antiquity in this neighbourhood, founded in the reign of King Stephen; great part of which is yet preserved, with some modern additions.

[D] AVON, (The Upper) rising in Northamptonshire, on the borders of Leicestershire, adds great beauty to the delightful territory of Warwick Castle, as it flows beneath the cliff on which those lofty towers projecting before the town and church are situated. It then glides through a charming country to Stratford-on-Avon, celebrated as the birth-place of Shakspeare, and where the remains of the immortal bard are deposited. From thence it traverses the great level of Worcestershire by Evesham, having received the lesser Stour at Stratford, and turning to the South at Pershore, meets the Severn at the flourishing town of Tewksbury.

[Sidenote: Warwick Castle.]

[E] AVON (The Lower) rises in the hilly district of North Wiltshire, bordering on Gloucestershire, not far from Wootton Basset; its source is near that of the great river Thames, and both are said to have their origin from various springs, not accurately defined. Emerging from the hills, it makes a compass to fall into the vale leading from Christian Malford to Chippenham, advancing through the cloathing district of Wiltshire, bordering upon that of Somersetshire, and for a considerable extent divides those counties. Its course is at first southward, making a long compass by the west towards the north, and then to the west; at last, encircling the city of Bath on two sides, from whence it pursues nearly the same direction, with frequent meanders to Bristol. It then inclines to the north-west, as it conveys the abundant trade of that opulent city to the Severn, by its conflux constituting the Bristol Channel at King's-road.

[Sidenote: Bath.]

[A] BABINGLEY. In this parish, the first Christian church in East Anglia is said to have been built. Several hills in the vicinity, called Christian Hills, render the opinion highly probable. The village is situated near that part of the Lincolnshire wash called Lynn Deeps.

[B] BABRAHAM, anciently Badburham, is situated in the hundred of Chilford. This place, which was one of the manors of Algar, Earl of Mercia, at the time of the Norman survey, formerly had a market on Mondays. About the year 1576, the whole manorial property in the parish fell into the possession of Sir Horatio Palavicini, a Genoese. According to the tradition of the neighbourhood, this gentleman was collector of the Pope's taxes in England, in the reign of Queen Mary, on whose death, and the consequent change in religion under Elizabeth, he (like the Vicar of Bray,) changed his faith, converted the Pope's money to his own use, and settled in this country. The following whimsical epitaph relates to this occurrence: it is printed in "Lord Orford's Anecdotes of Painting"--

"Here lyes Horatio Palavazine,
Who robbed the Pope to lend the Queen.
He was a thief--a thief? Thou lyest:
For what! he robb'd but Antichrist,
Him death with besome swept from Bab'ram.
Into the bosom of ould Abraham:
But then came Hercules with his club,
And struck him down to Belzebub."

Sir Horatio was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. He was naturalised, by patent, in 1516, and commanded one of the English men-of-war in the great battle with the Spanish Armada, in 1588; and he was employed by the Queen, in her negotiations with the German Princes: he died at his seat, in this parish, on the 6th of July, 1600. It appears by the register kept in the church, that his children were baptized and buried here: it is also recorded, that the marriage of Sir Horatio's widow with Sir Oliver Cromwell, the Protector's uncle, took place exactly a year and a day after her husband's decease. The poor of this parish are partly maintained by a bequest of L97. a year, expended under certain restrictions imposed by the donor. Here is an alms-house, and a free school, founded by Levinus Bush, Esq., and his sister, Mrs. Judith Bennet; and the yearly sum of L25. is appropriated to the apprenticing of children.

[Sidenote: Singular anecdote of the Pope's Tax-gatherer.]

[Sidenote: The Queen's favorite.]

|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+
30|Babworth[A] pa|Worksop 7| 146| 449|
56|Bacheldre, or |Welshpool 12| 163| ...|
| Bacheldref to| | | |
10|Bachymbyd to|Mold 11| 202| ...|
49|Bach-Yrys, or |Pont ar 7| 223| ...|
| Machunis Isle|Dulas | | |
7|Backford to & pa|Liverpool 16| 186| 487|
34|Backwell, or |Axbridge 12| 125| 1038|
34| Bachwell pa| | | |
29|Backworth, or |Blyth 7| 281| 243|
| Blackworth to| | | |
27|Baconsthorpe to|Aylsham 8| 121| 333|
22|Bacop chap|Burnley 6| 205| ...|
17|Bacton pa|Hay 14| 139| 178|
27|Bacton pa|Worsted 7| 128| 498|
36|Bacton pa|Ixworth 9| 76| 758|
+--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BABWORTH. The hall is the seat of the Hon. J.B. Simpson; it a plain white-fronted edifice, the surrounding grounds which are very beautiful, were laid out by the celebrated Repton. Babworth church is a neat gothic building, with a small steeple; it is worthy of remark, that there are two trees growing out of the roof of the south porch. Near this village the ground begins to rise, and displays the most enchanting scenery of woods, lawns, glades, heaths, cultivated farms, and ornamental seats. The late Paul Sandby, Esq., R.A., who died on the 8th of November, 1809, was descended from a branch of the Sandby family, of Babworth, and was born at Nottingham, in 1732. In 1746 he went to London, and having an early bias towards the arts, he got introduced into the drawing room of the Tower. After two years he was appointed draughtsman, under the inspection of Mr. David Watson, who was employed by the late Duke of Cumberland to take a survey of the Highlands. During this excursion he made several sketches from the terrific scenery of that romantic country, from which he afterwards made a number of small etchings, which were published in a folio volume. From this circumstance, perhaps, we may account for the bold and striking style by which the paintings of this excellent artist are so peculiarly distinguished. In 1752, he quitted this employment and resided with his brother at Windsor. Several of the most beautiful views in the neighbourhood of Windsor and Eton, now became the subject of his pencil; here also he obtained that skill in depicting gothic architecture which gave so beautiful an effect to those landscapes that Sir Joseph Banks purchased them all at a very liberal price. Mr. Sandby published several prints in ridicule of the inimitable Hogarth's "Analysis of Beauty," but he afterwards declared, that had he known the merits of that exquisite painter at the time, he should not have dared to depreciate them. On the institution of "the Royal Academy," he was elected one of the Academicians. He was afterwards appointed chief drawing master of the Royal Academy at Woolwich, and held the office with honour and credit to the day of his death.

[Sidenote: Trees grow out of the roof of the church.]

[Sidenote: Paul Sandby, Esq.]

[Sidenote: Sandby the painter.]

[A] BADBY. This extensive village is situated on the brow of a hill, in the large uninclosed district of Badby-Down. Here are numerous springs, and several quarries of flag-stone, which, from its excellence, is very extensively employed for the purposes of building and paving. On the summit of Arbury Hill, in this parish, is a large encampment, which is attributed to the Romans: the ramparts are very steep, and the whole is encompassed by a very wide and deep foss.

[Sidenote: Quarries.]

[B] BADDESLEY. This village was celebrated a short time ago for a singular tree it contained, from which was frequently heard to issue groans as though uttered by a person in acute agony. The tree was an elm, young, vigorous, and to all appearance perfectly sound; and what is most wonderful, naturalists could assign no physical reason for the phenomena. Its fame spread far and wide; a pamphlet was written with an account of it, and persons came miles to visit it. The tree, however, it would seem with the fickleness attendant too often upon those who have gained celebrity, would not always groan, yet no cause could be assigned for its temporary cessations, either from seasons or weather. Many superstitious tales were raised by the country people and alleged as reasons for this singular occurrence; and for eighteen or twenty months it continued an object of considerable interest; a gentleman of the name of Forbes, making an experiment to discover its cause, by boring a hole in its trunk, put a period to its agonies, it never groaned again. It was afterwards rooted up with a further view to make a discovery, but in vain. It is universally believed that there was no trick in the affair, but that some natural cause really existed, though never understood.

[Sidenote: The groaning tree.]

[C] BADDILEY. A parish in the hundred of Nantwich. This place is principally remarkable for its church, standing on a small green surrounded by farm buildings. It consists of a small nave and chancel, and was constructed entirely of English oak; it is of the most remote antiquity, and presented a most unique specimen of ecclesiastical buildings of timber, previous to the introduction of stone; the upright timbers being much decayed were cased with brick in 1811, it having stood so many centuries that it was in danger of falling; the roof and ceiling are still in fine preservation. In the chancel are remains of some ancient stalls, and two elegant marble monuments, erected to the Mainwaring family, who were lords of the manor. Baddiley Hall, the former residence of this family, was a very old irregular building of timber and plaister, but has been lately pulled down.

[Sidenote: An oaken church.]

[D] BADDOW. (Great). This extensive, populous, and genteel village, from its peculiarly delightful situation, has become the residence of a considerable number of highly respectable families. Previous to the conquest, the manor was part of the possessions of Algar, Earl of Mercia. In consequence, however, of the rebellion of his son and successor, Earl Eadwine, who was slain in battle, this lordship, with other estates, was granted by King William to the monastery of the Holy Trinity at Caen, in Normandy. In the reign of Henry I., the crown was again possessed of it, and about the same period, the Earls of Gloucester became its proprietors; from which time, after having been vested in many noble families, it is now in the possession of the family of Houblon. Two chauntries of some value were formerly in the church.

[A] BADDOW, (Little). The church at this place contains a rich and splendid monument to the memory of Sir Henry Mildmay, Knight, who died in October, 1639. He is represented in a full suit of armour, reposing under a dome, which rests upon black marble pillars; two female figures kneel at his feet; the one elderly, and dressed in a scarf and hood, the other young, and magnificently attired in the fashion of the time. The head of the knight is supported by a pillow. From a latin inscription upon an oval tablet, we learn that Sir Henry having served as a soldier in the Irish wars, was for his gallantry knighted in the field. The carved effigies of two female figures, said by tradition to have been sisters and founders of this church, occupy recesses in the south wall of the centre aisle. Upon examining the two graves in which it was supposed that the corpses of the persons whose figures stood in the niches were interred, in one of them were found three skeletons, and two in the other, but without the slightest vestige of wood, linen, coffin, or any other covering to the bodies. In the year 1817, Edward Bullin, Esq., bequeathed 196 acres of land, and a wood containing thirty-six acres, for the purpose of clothing and educating the children in this parish and that of Boreham.

[Sidenote: Sir Henry Mildmay.]

[Sidenote: Skeletons found.]

[B] BADLESMERE. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, lord of the manor in the reign of Edward the Second, obtained a license for founding a house of regular canons in this place. The church is a small and very plain Saxon structure. In the porch are the fronts of two ancient wooden seats, carved in high relief; one represents a shield, on which are the star, ribbon, and motto of the order of the garter: on the other are some Scriptural sentences, relative to the Holy Trinity, in four circles, united by bands; so that the words Pater, Filius, Spisces and Deus, though only once repeated in the circles, form a part of every sentence.

[Sidenote: Curious carvings in wood.]

[C] BADMINTON, (Great) has been the seat of the ducal family of Beaufort, ever since the demolition of Ragland Castle, in the civil wars. Badminton House, the family residence of the duke, is situated in a noble park nearly nine miles in circumference, through which various avenues have been formed. It was erected by the first duke of Beaufort in the year 1682. It is a very extensive building, on the French model. In the hall is a large sarcophagus of Roman sculpture, representing a bacchanalian procession; this was given to the third duke of Beaufort, by Cardinal Alberoni. By that distinguished prelate, who died in 1745, many curious and original paintings were procured during his residence in Italy; among them is a Holy Family, by Raphael; and several by Guido and Carlo Dolci are much esteemed. He also purchased the very singular and finely painted satirical picture by Salvator Rosa, for which that artist was expelled Rome. "The Sovereigns of the different nations are here depicted by different animals, as an eagle, a wolf, a sheep, a hog, a fox, a cow, and an ass; the latter has the pontifical pall thrown over him, and the blind goddess, Fortune, is represented showering her gifts over the whole group." Some excellent landscapes, by the Italian masters, are also preserved here; and a very fine series of fourteen portraits, of the Beauforts, from John of Gaunt, from whom they trace their genealogy. Badminton church is an elegant structure; it was built by the late duke in 1785, and contains many monuments of the Beaufort family.

[Sidenote: Duke of Beaufort's seat.]

[Sidenote: Fine paintings.]

[A] BAGINTON. The Hall, a seat of a descendant of the Bromley family, who purchased the estate in the reign of James I., was built by secretary Bromley. This gentleman, one of the most honest and able servants of Queen Anne, was Speaker of the House of Commons. In proof of the high estimation in which he was held, it is necessary only to cite a memorable circumstance relative to the residence under notice. In 1706, the family seat at Baginton was reduced to the ground by fire. Intelligence of this calamity was conveyed to the owner while attending his duty in the House of Commons, and a considerable sum was immediately voted by parliament towards a restoration of the structure. Here is barely to be traced the site of the castellated residence of Sir William Bagot, a firm adherent of Richard II., at which the Duke of Hereford, afterwards Henry IV., lodged the night previous to his projected personal contest with Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, in the presence of the King on Gosford Green, where the lists were formed; the scene is admirably described by Shakespeare.

[Sidenote: Once destroyed by fire].

[B] BAGLAN is a parish in the hundred of Neath. The village is of the most romantic beauty, and the scenery in the neighbourhood is of a delightful character. Near this place is Britton Ferry, which is interesting, not only on account of its sylvan fascinations, but as being the domain of Lord Jersey, whose extensive plantations spread over several bold hills westward of the Neath river, a stream which here emerges in a fine sweep, between woody banks, partly broken into cliffs and at a short distance descends into the sea. "From a delightful shady walk over the stream, we branched off," says Mr. Barber, "into an 'alley green,' which led us up a steep hill, covered with large trees, and tangled underwood; the ascent was judiciously traced, where several bare crags, projecting from the soil, formed an opposite contrast to the luxuriant verdure which prevailed around. On gaining the summit, the charms of Britton Ferry disclosed themselves in 'an ample theatre of sylvan grace,' of more than common beauty: beyond which, the Bristol Channel, bounded by the aerial tint of its opposite coast, formed the distance. From this roaming prospect, however, the eye gladly returned to gaze on the local beauties of the scene, the tufted knoll, the dark glade, and the majestic river." The mansion is a very ordinary building; the house is low having two wings, with attic windows in the roof, ornamented with a bullustraded parapet. The neat simplicity of the hamlet deserves remark; perhaps the church is unrivalled, both for its picturesque situation, and moral interest. The custom of planting evergreens over the remains of departed friends, and bedecking them with flowers at certain seasons of the year, is here attended to with peculiar care; and to this pleasing tribute of tenderness and affection the "Bard of Avon" refers in the following beautiful lines:--

"With fairest flowers while summer lasts,
I'll sweeten thy sad grave, thou shalt not lack
The flower that's like thy face, pale primrose: nor
The azured harebell, like thy veins: no, nor
The leaf of eglantine, whom not to slander,
Out-sweetened not thy breath."

David Ap Gwillym also beautifully alludes to this practice: "Oh, while thy season of flowers, and thy tender sprays thick of leaves remain, I will pluck the roses from the brakes, the flowers from the meads, the vivid trefoils, beauties of the ground, and the gaily smiling bloom of the verdant herbs, humbly will I lay them on the grave of Ivor!" This part of Wales is so mild in its climate, that myrtles, magnolias, and other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly in the open air. Near Baglan is a well with medicinal properties, but many superstitious notices are associated with its use in the neighbourhood.

_Mail_ arrives at Aberavon, 2 miles distant, 6 evening; departs, 7.30
morning.

[Sidenote: Lord Jersey's seat].

[Sidenote: Britton Ferry.]

[Sidenote: Planting evergreens over graves.]

[A] BAGSHOT is a village on the great western road, in the parish of Windlesham, and hundred of Woking. Bagshot heath derives its name from this village; it is one of the most extensive wastes in the kingdom, and was formerly the scene of many highway robberies. Its appearance is extremely desolate, but it is useful in supplying the inhabitants with fuel, and feeds a great number of sheep, the mutton of which is excellent; but like other animals fed on a similar pasture, the sheep are small. On the edge of the heath are several noblemen's seats. Among which, Hall Grove, the residence of Mrs. Birt; Chobham Place, S. Thornton, Esq.; South Hill Park, the Earl of Limerick; and Easthampstead Park, the seat of the Marquis of Downshire; are deserving the notice of the curious traveller. Bagshot Park to the north of the village, was once the seat of his late Majesty George IV. when Prince of Wales; after which time it was inhabited by the late Duke of Gloucester, (brother-in-law of his present Majesty) until the day of his decease, which occurred on the 30th of November, 1834, in the 58th year of his age; his remains were interred in St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, on the 11th of the following month. Bagshot was formerly a lordship of the kings of England, and was much resorted to by James I., and Charles I., to enjoy the pleasures of the chace.

_Mail_ arrives 10.14 night; departs 3.28 morning--_Inns_, King's
Arms, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: Bagshot heath.]

[B] BAILDON is in the parish of Otley and wapentake of Skyrack, and is situated on the river Aire. The inhabitants are principally engaged in trade and manufactures. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal passes within a mile and a half from this place.

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter VI: Part 6

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