Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter XIII: Part 13

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[A] BERKSHIRE. This county was originally inhabited by three tribes or nations, termed by the Romans Attrebates, Bibroces, and Segontiaci. The first occupied part of the west, the south-west and north-west parts. The second the south-east parts; and the third a portion of the north parts. Under the Romans, this county formed part of the first division called Britannia Prima. During the Heptarchy it belonged to the West Saxons. It was once called Berrocshire, from the name of a hill covered with box, which at one time occupied a large portion of it. It is an inland county, bounded on the north by the Thames, which divides it from Oxfordshire on the west, and Bucks on the east; and by part of Surrey; on the north by Surrey and Hampshire; and on the west by Wilts and a small part of Gloucestershire. It is so very irregular in its shape as not to admit of any adequate description. Its greatest length is about forty-eight miles, and its utmost breadth from north to south about twenty-five. In one of the narrowest parts, by Reading, it is about six or seven miles, and less still at the eastern extremity. It contains about 464,500 acres, and is about 140 miles in circumference; it is in the province of Canterbury, and the diocese of Salisbury; (the parish of Chilton, which is in the diocese of Oxford, and Langford, which is in that of Lincoln, excepted;) subject to an archdeacon, and is divided into six deaneries. It is included in the Oxford circuit. There are 20 hundreds, 12 market towns, 148 parishes (of which 67 are vicarages,) and 671 villages. The natural divisions of the county are four, 1. The Vale, beginning at Budcot, and ending at Streatley. 2. The Chalky Hills, running nearly through the centre of the lower part of the county. 3. The Vale of the Kennet, extending diagonally from Hungerford to near Wargrave. 4. The Forest Division, commencing on the east to Loddon, and occupying nearly the entire breadth of this part of the county to Old Windsor, and from Sandhurst south to Maidenhead north. The air is deemed peculiarly salubrious, particularly on the chalky and gravelly soils, which are the most common throughout the county; but the uneven face of the country causes some slight degree of variation in this particular, though every part is considered healthful and good. The soil is as various (though perhaps more mixed) as in the last described county. The Vale of White Horse consists generally of a rich strong loam and gravel, with some sand and stone brasp, producing corn, wheat, beans, &c. In the Chalk Hill district, light black earth on chalk prevails, with flint, chalk, gravel, and loam. Here numerous sheep are fed; it produces, towards the south and east, turnips, barley; and, when properly manured, Lammas wheat and artificial grasses. The Vale of Kennet, is generally peat land, with gravel, loam and clay, though in the south east parts a poor stony and heathy soil. The Forest District, gravel, clay, and loam, except on the south, which is poor and heathy. The principal rivers and streams are the Thames, the Kennet, the Loddon, the Lambourn, the Ock, the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater. All these, with perhaps the exception of the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater, abound with almost every kind of fresh water fish. Besides these rivers and streams, there are the Ginge Brook, the Moreton Brook, and other rivulets, &c.; also some other natural and artificial lakes and ponds. Water, however, is generally scarce on the Berkshire downs, and along the whole of the chalky stratum. The navigable rivers are the Thames and the Kennet. The navigable canals are the Kennet and Avon canal, which joins the river Kennet a little above Newbury; the entire length from Newbury to Bath is sixty miles--it has been navigable since the year 1798; and the Wilts and Berks canal, opened on September 21, 1810, into the Thames at Abingdon; from near Bath to Abingdon, about fifty-one and three-quarter miles. Mineral waters are by no means common in this county. The natural productions of this county, except those which may be considered partly agricultural, are neither plentiful or important. There are no minerals nor fossils of any great consequence. The strata of sand with oyster-shells, and particularly a thick stratum of chalk, is found near Reading. The surface of the soil, however, amply compensates for the apparent barrenness of the internal parts; and the produce of fat cattle, sheep, swine, and grain, is immense; as is also that of fine timber, especially oak and beech. Abingdon gives the title of Earl to the Bertie family--Coleshill, that of Baron to the Pleydell-Bouverie family--Foxley, that of Baron to the Townshend family--Hungerford, that of Baron to the Rawdon-Hastings family--Mortimer, the title of Earl to the Harley family--Newbury, that of Baron to the Cholmondely family--Uffingham, that of Viscount to the Craven family--and Windsor, the title of Baron to the Windsor-Hickman family; and Earl, to the Stuarts. It has been calculated, that, including houses, mills, and other productive revenue arising from or attached to the soil, the landed property cannot amount to less than L500,000 per annum, and that the largest possessor may have about L8000. The largest possessor, being a peer, is the Earl of Craven. The Craven, Englefield, Eyston, Read, Southby, Seymour, and Clarke families are among the few ancient families who still inherit the same estates, and occupy the same seats, or are immediately connected with the county, as their ancestors. Among the representatives of some very old families, or in the female line, may be ranked the Berties, the Nevilles, the Pleydells, the Puseys, the Throckmortons, the Lovedens, the Nelsons, and the Blagraves. The King is purposely omitted in this brief list:--his possessions as a landed proprietor being well known. Agriculture so much engrosses the attention of the people of Berkshire, that very little trade, unconnected with these pursuits is carried on. There are, however, some manufactories of sail-cloth, kerseys, canvass, and malt; and there are also several pretty large breweries in various parts of the county: the Windsor ale having acquired considerable celebrity; and at the Temple mills, near Bisham, there is a copper manufacture, and a manufacture of potash at Milton.

[Sidenote: Its ancient division into three nations.]

[Sidenote: Air, soil, and rivers.]

[Sidenote: Natural productions.]

[Sidenote: Ancient and noble families.]

[A] BERMONDSEY stretches along the banks of the Thames, from Southwark to Deptford, and Rotherhithe eastward, and is much inhabited by woolstaplers, fellmongers, curriers, parchment-makers, and other manufacturers, with such craftsmen as are connected with the construction and management of shipping. A priory for monks was founded here in 1082, by Aylwin Child, a citizen of London, and endowed by the second William with his manor of Bermondsey. In 1399, it was made an abbey, and at the dissolution, it was granted to Sir Thomas Pope, who built on its site a large house, which afterwards became the property and residence of the Earls of Sussex. Another part of the site is called the Abbey House. Catherine, the Queen of Henry V., and Elizabeth, Queen of Edward IV. retired to this place, where they died, the former in 1436; the latter soon after the forfeiture of her lands, by an order of the Council, in 1486. The church was erected in 1680, of brick, with a low square tower and turret, and consists of a chancel, nave, two aisles, and a transept. A free school was founded here by Mr. Josiah Bacon, and endowed with a revenue of L150. for the instruction of not more than sixty, or fewer than forty boys. A charity-school was also established, by contributions, in 1755, for the education of fifty boys and thirty girls, and was afterwards endowed by Mr. Nathaniel Smith, with a revenue of L40. per annum. The Bermondsey Spa was discovered in 1770, and, by means of the attractive entertainments contrived by the proprietor, became a place of general resort; but soon after his death the gardens were closed, and the area is now built upon. This suburban parish long retained a very antique air from the age of several of its streets and houses, many of which were built of wood. But the spirit of improvement has gradually amended its appearance: an act of parliament was passed in the year 1823, for watching, paving, cleansing, and lighting the parish. A new church has been erected here for the convenience of the parishioners, at a moderate distance from the mother church; it is, however, subordinate to the original rectory.

[Sidenote: Royal residence.]

[Sidenote: Church and schools.]

Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+
52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Denbigh |Holt 6|Llangollen 12|
38|Bersted, South pa|Sussex |Chichester 5|Arundel 9|
38|Berwick pa|Sussex |Lewes 8|Seaford 4|
33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Salop |Shrewsbury 2|Wem 10|
29|Berwick Hill to|Northumb|Newcastle 10|Corbridge 13|
41|Berwick, St. James pa|Wilts |Amesbury 6|Wilton 6|
41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilts |Shaftesbury 5|Hindon 7|
41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Wilts |Hindon 1|Amesbury 16|
31|Berwick-Prior lib|Oxford |Wallingford 5|Watlington 5|
31|Berwick-Salome pa|Oxford | ... 4| ... 5|
+--+----------------------+--------+------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+
11|Berry Pomeroy[A] pa|Brixham 7| 197| 1186|
52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Mold 14| 179| 1240|
38|Bersted, South pa|Lt. Hampton 9| 67| 2190|
38|Berwick pa|Hailsham 6| 58| 203|
33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Albrighton 3| 155| |
29|Berwick Hill to|Morpeth 10| 284| 105|
41|Berwick, St. James pa|Salisbury 9| 83| 232|
41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilton 12| 97| 425|
41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Warminster 10| 93| 51|
31|Berwick-Prior lib|Dorchester 4| 49| |
31|Berwick-Salome pa| ... 4| 49| 134|
+--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+

[A] BERRY POMEROY. This place, situated in the hundred of Hayter, derives its name from the Pomeroys, a very considerable family in these parts. Ralph de Pomeroy, who came to England with William the Norman, and for his services was rewarded with fifty-eight lordships in this county, built a castle here, the magnificent ruins of which, seated on a rocky eminence, rising over a pellucid brook, now form, in combination with the other features of the scenery, one of the most delightful views in Devonshire. The approach to the castle, observes Dr. Matton, in his Observations on the Western Counties, "is through a thick wood, extending along the slope of a range of hills that entirely intercept any prospect to the south: on the opposite side is a steep rocky ridge, covered with oak, so that the ruins are shut into a beautiful valley. The great gate, with the walls of the south front, the north wing of the court, or quadrangle, some apartments on the west side, and a turret or two, are the principal remains of the building; and these are so finely overhung with the branches of trees and shrubs which grow close to the walls, so beautifully mantled with ivy, and so richly incrusted with moss, that they constitute the most picturesque objects that can be imagined; and when the surrounding scenery is taken into the account, the noble mass of wood fronting the gate, the bold ridges rising in the horizon, and the fertile valley opening to the east, the ruins of Berry Pomeroy Castle must be considered as almost unparalleled in their effect." The posterity of Ralph de Pomeroy resided here till the reign of Edward VI., when Sir Thomas Pomeroy sold the manor to Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, from whom it has descended to the present Duke of Somerset. Berry Pomeroy Castle, whose venerable ruins we have just mentioned, appears to have been originally quadrangular, and to have had but one entrance, which was on the south side, between two hexagonal towers, through a double gateway; the first of which was machiolated, and strengthened by angular bastions, and having over it the Pomeroy arms, still visible. A small room over the gateway was probably the chapel: it is divided by a wall, supported by pillars and arches. From the eastern tower is a fine view of the surrounding country. The ruins in the interior part, or quadrangle, are considerably more modern than the rest of the building. These appear to have belonged to a "magnificent structure," commenced, says Prince, in his Worthies of Devonshire, by the Seymours, at an expense of L20,000, but "never brought to perfection: for the west side of the mansion was never begun: what was finished may be thus described. Before the door of the Great Hall was a noble walk whose length was the breadth of the court, arched over with curiously carved free-stone, supported in the fore part by several stately pillars of the same stone, of great dimensions, after the Corinthian order, standing on pedestals, having cornices and freezes finely wrought. The apartments within were very splendid, especially the dining-room; and many other of the rooms were well adorned with mouldings and fret-work; some of whose marble clavils were so delicately fine, that they would reflect an object true and lively from a great distance. Notwithstanding which it is now demolished, and all this glory lyeth in the dust, buried in its own ruins; there being nothing standing but a few broken walls, which seem to mourn their own approaching funerals." The walls are formed of slate, and appear to be rapidly decaying. The grounds round the castle consist of steep eminences, covered with oak and other trees. Even in the court, and remains of the fortress itself, trees of nearly a century's growth are flourishing in luxuriance, and compose, with the shrubs thickly scattered within the area, a scene highly beautiful. In the wars between Charles I. and the Parliament this castle was dismantled. Berry Pomeroy Church, which was built by one of the Pomeroy family, contains a splendid alabaster monument to the memory of Lord Edward Seymour, Knt. son to the Duke of Somerset; Edward Seymour, Bart. and his Lady, the daughter of Sir Arthur Champernoune. The two first are represented in armour; the knight having a truncheon in his hand, and lying cross-legged. The lady is in a black dress, with the figure of a child, in a cradle, at her head, and at her feet another in a chair: below are nine figures kneeling, with books open before them. This monument was repaired by the late Duke of Somerset, the eighth lineal descendant of the Duke of Somerset the Protector.

[Sidenote: Castle in ruins.]

[Sidenote: Former state of the castle.]

[A] BERWICK. The town is situated N. by W. from Newcastle. King Edgar gave it, with Coldingham, to the church of Durham; but it was afterwards forfeited by Bishop Flambard. It had a church in the reign of Alexander, and, in David's time constituted one of the four boroughs where courts of trade were wont to be held. In 1173, it was reduced to ashes; and in the following year, Earl Duncan marched to the place, and butchered its defenceless inhabitants. Henry II. having obtained the castle as a pledge for King William, strengthened its fortifications. It was restored, however, in the following reign. King John made dreadful ravages in the town and neighbourhood. A convention was held here by Edward I., in 1291, to arbitrate the claims to the crown of Scotland, which were at length determined in favour of his creature, Baliol. This prince having shortly afterwards thrown off his allegiance, Berwick became exposed to the fury of Edward's resentment. In 1296, the English king fortified it with a wall and a fosse, and in the same year received the homage of the Scotch nobility here In 1297, the town was taken by Sir William Wallace; but the castle held out, and after a long assault, was relieved. Wallace about eight years after this was betrayed, and half of his body exposed upon Berwick-bridge. The Countess of Buchan, for crowning Robert Bruce, at Scone, was shut up here in a wooden cage, six years, and then released. Edward II. and his queen wintered at Berwick in 1310. He assembled his army here before the battle of Bannockburn. Peter Spalding betrayed this place into the hands of Robert Bruce in 1318: many attempts were made to recover it, which was not effected till the day after the battle of Hallidon-hill, in 1333. Edward III. was here in 1335, with a great army in 1340, and the year after, at Easter, held a tournament; but during his absence in France, in November 1353, the Scots surprized and took the town. The castle, under the renowned Sir John Copeland, held out till Edward, in February following, arrived with a great army, and forced the Scotch to capitulate. Seven Scotchmen, in 1377, surprised the castle, and held it eight days against 7,000 archers, and 3,000 cavalry. The deputy-governor, under the Earl of Northumberland, betrayed it into the enemy's hands in 1384; but the earl soon after recovered it. Through the solicitation of his uncle the Earl of Worcester, engaging in the rebellion against Henry IV., in 1406, he employed this fortress against the king; but a cannon-shot, the first that was ever fired in England, so alarmed the garrison, that it, immediately surrendered. According to Walsingham and Speed, this shot was of a large size, and demolished great part of a tower. In 1811, a ball of cast iron, weighing ninety-six pounds, answering to this account, was found in a part of the ruins of the castle. It had penetrated the wall about three yards, at a place where it was flanked with a tower. An unsuccessful attempt was made to reduce it in 1422; but after the battle of Towton, in 1461, it was again in the hands of the Scots, who strengthened its walls, and held it till 1482, when it finally came into possession of the English. "From that time," observes Camden, "the kings of England have continually added works to it, particularly Queen Elizabeth, who, lately to the terror of the enemy, and security of the towns-people, contracted the circuit of the walls, drawing within the old ones a very high wall, well built of strong stone, surrounded by a deep ditch, a regular rampart, redoubt, counterscarps, and covered ways, so that the form and strength of the fortifications are sufficient to discourage all hopes of carrying it by assault, not to mention the bravery of the garrison, and the stores in the place, which exceed belief." Between the years 1761 and 1770 the walls were almost entirely rebuilt in many parts, and finished in 1786. The governor of Berwick has a salary of L586. 7s. 1d. The barracks measure 217 by 121; and contain twenty-four rooms for officers, and seventy-two rooms adapted to hold 567 privates. The church of Berwick, a peculiar of the dean and chapter of Durham, stands on the north side of the parade. It was rebuilt between 1642 and 1652, at the cost of L1400. It has no steeple. It consists of three aisles, and several galleries, all handsomely pewed. The Worshipful Mercers' Company, in London, founded a lectureship here. David I., King of Scotland, founded here a convent for Cistertian Nuns; and Robert III, granted its revenues to Dryburgh Abbey. The convent of Carmelites originated with Sir John Grey, in 1270. The Scotch King, in 1239, brought hither a convent of Dominicans, which Edward III. removed. The Trinitarians had a house here, as had the Franciscans; and between the sea and the town, in Maudlin-field, stood the hospital and free chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, which had an hospital or hermitage belonging to it at Segeden.--Queen Elizabeth founded a free school here; and a charity-school was rebuilt in 1725, in which twenty boys and six girls are clothed and educated. Berwick bridge was swept away by a flood in 1199. It was rebuilt of wood, of which it consisted, till the time of James I., who commenced the present elegant structure of stone. It has fifteen arches; its length being 1164 feet, and its breadth seventeen. It was twenty-four years, four months, and four days in building, and cost government L14,960 1s. 6d. The Town Hall was built in 1754. On its ground-floor, on the east-side, is a piazza, called the Exchange; and opposite it are cells for criminals, and shops. The second floor consists of two spacious halls. The outer hall, for holding courts and guilds, measures, sixty feet by thirty-one. The inner hall forty-seven feet long and twenty-three feet broad, is occasionally occupied for public entertainments. The upper story is the common gaol of the town. The turret, 150 feet high, contains eight musical bells. The first charter of the corporation was granted by Edward I. The corporation were first summoned to send members to parliament in the latter end of the reign of Edward IV. The last charter of this town was granted by James I. The corporation now consists of a mayor, recorder, town clerk, four bailiffs, a coroner, four serjeants at mace, and a water-bailiff. The mayor is also escheator in the borough, clerk of the market, and a justice of the peace; the other justices of the town being the recorder and such resident burgesses as have sustained the office of mayor. They are lords of the manor of Tweedmouth, where they hold a court-leet and court-baron twice a year. Their annual revenues arising from duties taken at the quay and gates, are estimated at L7000. Besides the trade in salmon, great quantities of corn and eggs are exported here for London. One morning in the month of October, 1814, there were upwards of 10,000 salmon, in Berwick market, caught in the Tweed, some of which might have been bought at 2s. each. At the same time, the finest herrings (of which an immense shoal was on the coast) were sold for 2s. the hundred of six score. On the same day the best salmon was sold in Newcastle market at 6d. per pound, and some of the inferior kind as low as 4d. The port has about sixty or seventy vessels. The harbour abounds with low dangerous rocks. At its mouth a noble pier has recently been constructed on the site of an old one, built by Queen Elizabeth. Berwick Castle, once a place of high importance, is now almost levelled with the ground. About 400 yards north of it, is a pentagonal tower, called the Bell Tower, having its name from containing a bell, which was rung on any occasion of alarm.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Friday in Trinity Week,
for black cattle, sheep, and horses.--_Mail_ arrives 9.49 morning;
departs 2.1 afternoon.--_Bankers_, Commercial Banking Company; draw
on Jones, Lloyd, and Co.; Batson and Co.: draw on Glynn and
Co.--_Inns_, King's Arms, and Red Lion.

[Sidenote: The disputed town.]

[Sidenote: Countess of Buchan shut up in a cage six years.]

[Sidenote: The first cannon-ball used in England.]

[Sidenote: The church and convents.]

[Sidenote: The bridge 24 years in building.]

[Sidenote: Municipal officers.]

[Sidenote: Salmon and herring fisheries.]

[A] BESSELSLEIGH, is a small village, in the hundred of Hormer. The manor formerly belonged to the family of Legh, from which it passed, by a female heir, to that of Besils, or Blesells, which flourished there for several centuries. "At this Legh," says Leland, "be very fayre pastures and woodes. The Blesells hathe bene lords of it syns the tyme of Edwarde the First, or afore, and ther they dyd enhabite. The place is all of stone, and stondithe at the west end of the paroche churche. The Blesells cam out of Provence in Fraunce, and were men of activitye in feates of armes, as it appearith in monuments at Legh, how he faught in Listes with a strange knighte that chalengyd hym, at the whiche deade the Kynge and Quene at that tyme of England, were present. The Blesells were countyd to have pocessyons of 400 marks by the yere." In the year 1516, the estates of the Blesells were carried, by the marriage of an heiress, to the Fettiplaces, a respectable Berkshire family, one of whom Besil Fettiplace, Esq., was High Sheriff in the 26th of Queen Elizabeth. The manor of Besselsleigh was purchased of the Fettiplaces, by William Lenthall, Esq., Speaker of the Long Parliament, whose descendants now reside at Burford, in Oxfordshire.

[Sidenote: The Blessell's family.]

[A] BETHNAL GREEN. There is a curious legend relating to this place, of which Henry de Mountfort, son of the ambitious Earl of Liecester, who was slain with his father at the memorable battle of Evesham, is the hero. He is supposed to have been discovered among the bodies of the dying and the dead (by a young lady) in an almost lifeless state, and deprived of his sight by a wound which he had received during the engagement. Under the fostering hand of this "faire damosel" he soon recovered, and afterwards marrying her, she became the mother of the celebrated "Besse," the heroine of the popular ballad of the beggar's daughter of Bethnal-green, written in the reign of Elizabeth. Fearing least his rank and title should be discovered by his enemies, he is said to have disguised himself as a beggar, and taken up his residence at Bethnal-green. The beauty of the daughter attracted many suitors, and she was at length married to a noble knight, who, regardless of her supposed meanness and poverty, had the courage to make her his wife: her other lovers having deserted her on account of her low origin. At Bethnal-green is an old mansion, which the inhabitants, with their usual love of traditionary lore, assign as the palace of the blind beggar. The tradition, though with very little grounds for its foundation, is still preserved on the sign posts of several public houses in the neighbourhood. On the 19th September, 1826, the parish officers of Bethnal-green waited on the Secretary of State for the Home Department, and stated that a lawless gang, of 500 or more, thieves infested that neighbourhood and committed the most dreadful outrages nightly, upwards of fifty persons having been robbed and beaten in the course of a week; the secretary ordered forty men mounted, to patrole the parish, and aid the local authorities in bringing the offenders to justice. The hospital called the Trinity House, founded in the year 1695, for twenty-eight ancient seamen, who have been masters of ships, and their widows, is in this parish. The funds arising from the ballast-offices, lighthouses, buoys, beacons, &c. are appropriated by parliament to this corporation. Each of the inmates receives 16s. a month, 20s. a year for coals, and a new gown every second year. Many of the streets of this parish are almost wholly occupied by the operative silk-weavers.

[Sidenote: The blind beggar of Bethnal-green.]

[Sidenote: Gang of 500 thieves, in 1826.]

[B] BETTWS-YN-RHOS. _Fairs_, February 20, May 8, August 15, and November 20.

[C] BETTWS BLEDDRWS. In this neighbourhood there exists a curious custom relating to marriage, called a bidding, which takes place about a week previous to the day of ceremony. The banns are published as in England. A bidder goes from house to house, with a long pole and ribbons flying at the end of it, and standing in the middle floor in each house, he repeats a long lesson, with great formality. He mentions the day of the wedding, the place, the preparations made, &c. The following is a specimen:--Speech of the Bidder in 1762. "The intention of the bidder is this; with kindness and amity, with decency and liberality for Einion Owain, and Llio Elys, he invites you to come with your good will on the plate; bring current money; a shilling, or two, or three, or four, or five; with cheese and butter we invite the husband and wife, and children, and men-servants, from the greatest to the least. Come there early, you shall have victuals freely, and drink cheap, stools to sit on, and fish if we can catch them; but if not, hold us excuseable; and they will attend on you when you call in upon them in return. They set out from such a place to such a place." The gwahodder, or bidder, has eight or ten shillings for his trouble. Saturday is always fixed on as the day of marriage, and Friday is allotted to bring home the furniture of the woman, consisting generally of an oak chest, a feather bed, clothes, &c. The man provides a bedstead, a table, a dresser and chairs. The evening is moreover employed in receiving presents of money, cheese, and butter, at the man's house, from his friends, and at the woman's house from her friends. This is called purse and girdle, it is an ancient British custom. All these presents are set down minutely on paper. If demanded, they are to be repaid. On Saturday, the friends of the man come all on horseback, from the number of eighty to a hundred, and have bread and cheese, and ale at his cost, making at the same time their presents, or pay pwython, i.e. the presents that have been made at their weddings. From ten to twenty of the best mounted go to the intended bride's house to demand her. The woman with her friends are expecting the summons, but she appears very uncomplying, and much Welsh poetry is employed by way of argument; one party being within the house, the other without, abusing each other much. Several persons then deliver orations on horseback, with their hats off, demanding the daughter from the father, who were answered by persons appointed for the business. At length the father appears, admitting and welcoming his guests. They alight, walk in, take some refreshments, and proceed to church. The girl mounts behind her father, mother, or friend, upon the swiftest horse that can be procured. Her friends then pretend to run away with her, riding like mad folks, in any direction. During this time, the girl has no pillion, sitting upon the crupper, and holding by the man's coat, at last the horse is tired, or the bride growing impatient consents to go, using only some feints to get out of the road, till they arrive at the church. The ceremony being over, they return to the married couple's house, eating at free cost, but finding their own liquor. Sunday being come, the married pair stay at home receiving good will and pwython. On Monday the drink is exhausted, and the cheese, &c. is sold, frequently making, with the money presented, a sum of L50 to L60. On the following Sunday, most of the company attend the young pair to church, and the ceremony closes. Among the eminent natives of this neighbourhood, was David ap Gwylim, of Bro Ginin, whose works appeared in a large volume, in the year 1789. He nourished from about the year 1330 to 1370. In early life he enjoyed the munificent patronage of Ivor the generous, an ancestor of the Tredegar family. Under the influence of a passion for the fair Morvudd he composed 147 poems. Their loves were mutual, but her friends induced her to accept a wealthy connection, named Rhys Gwrgan, an officer of the English army, who served at the battle of Cressy, 1346; Dab Gwilym persuaded Morvudd to escape with him, during the absence of her husband in France; in consequent of which he was imprisoned, but liberated through the influence of his friends. It is from the poems of this author, that the modern literary dialect has chiefly been formed.

_Fairs_, August 17, and September 23 and 27.

[Sidenote: Curious marriage customs.]

[Sidenote: A Welsh poet.]

[A] BETTWS GWERFYL.--_Fairs_, March 16, June 22, August 12, September 16, and Dec. 12.

[B] BETTWS-Y-COED. At this village, which contains scarcely a hundred houses, is the picturesque bridge of Pont-y-Pain, beneath which is a famous salmon leap; and the road leads into the luxuriant vale of Llanwrst, in the neighbourhood of which are many seats. The principal of these is Gwydir House, an ancient mansion of the Wynnes; and now an occasional residence of Lord Gwydir. Two miles northward is the village of Trefrew, remarkable chiefly for a saline spring, and the site of a royal palace, built by Llewelyn. Between two mountains, near this place are some capital mines, the produce of which are lead, calamine, mixed with iron, ochre, and pyrites. Bettws-y-Coed lies on the mail-coach road to Holyhead. From Cernioge Mawr, through this place to Ogwen Lake, a broad smooth, and well protected road has been made among the rocky precipices with which the mountainous country abounds. The village church contains an ancient but very perfect tomb of Gryffyd, grand nephew of Llewellyn, the last prince of Wales. This interesting monument is concealed rather awkwardly beneath one of the benches.

_Fairs_, May 15, and December 3.--_Mail_ arrives 6.30 afternoon;
departs 6.0 morning.

[Sidenote: Gwydir House.]

[C] BEVERLEY. This important market town lies at the foot of the wolds, it was anciently called Dierwald: the wood of the Deiri; from its extensive forest. Its present appellation may be a corruption of Beaver ley; beavers having abounded in the neighbouring river, Hull. Its origin and early history were totally unknown, till the beginning of the eighth century, when St. John of Beverley founded a church and monastery, and died there. This institution was several times destroyed by the Danes; and there is a pause in its history, till Athelstan granted to it many priviledges, and built a new college. Many archbishops of York were benefactors to the monastery, and expended large sums in beautifying the church. In the early part of the civil war, Charles I. had his quarters here; and subsequently the town was taken by the parliamentarians. It appears that Beverley derived its first and greatest importance from its connexion with the saint. In its present state, the town is extensive and pleasant. The entrance from Driffield, through an ancient gateway into a spacious street of elegant houses, is particularly beautiful. Its market-place also being large and commodious, is a principal ornament. The church of St. John, which is in excellent preservation, is a superb edifice, adorned at its west end with two lofty steeples. Within it is rich in relics of antiquity. Gisbon, describing it, says "the minster here is a very fair and neat structure: the roof is an arch of stone. In it are several monuments of the Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little chapel to the choir; in the windows whereof are the pictures of several of that family, drawn in the glass. At the upper end of the choir, on the right side of the altar place, stands the freedstool, made of one entire stone, and said to have been removed from Scotland; with a well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the church, next the choir, hangs an ancient tablet, with the pictures of St. John and king Athelstan, and this distich:

'Als free make I thee,
As heart can wish, or egh can see.'"

Hence, adds our author, the burgesses of Beverley pay no toll or custom in any port or town of England. The choir is paved with marble of four colours. Over the altar is a magnificent wooden arch supported by eight fluted Corinthian pillars. The east window now contains all the painted glass which could be collected from the others. The screen, between the choir and the nave, is Gothic, and is justly esteemed a principal ornament of the edifice. At the lower end of the body of the church stands a large font of agate stone. In 1664, a vault was discovered of free-stone, in which was a sheet of lead, containing the relics of St. John, with an inscription, dated 1197, which imported that, the church having been destroyed by fire, the ashes had been for some time lost, but that at length they had been found and there deposited. They were contained in a small leaden box, and consisted of a few bones, six beads, some large nails, and three brass pins. The whole was piously replaced, with an appropriate inscription; and, in 1726, the spot was adorned with an arch of brick-work.--The church of St. Mary is also a large and handsome structure; and like the minster, was destroyed in 1528, by the fall of its steeple. It contains some monuments and inscriptions; but none of note.--Beverley is a corporate town, and is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and thirteen of the principal burgesses. The whole number of these last is about 1200; and many persons are induced to purchase their freedom, by the privileges and immunities which it confers: among these are extensive rights of pasture on four commons, near the town; and, as we have observed, liberation from all tolls throughout the kingdom. Besides its churches, Beverley has the following public edifices and charitable institutions: the Hallgarth, a beautiful and spacious hall, in which are held the sessions, and a register-office for deeds and wills; an elegant market cross, supported by eight columns; each one entire piece of free-stone; a common gaol, which was rebuilt thirty-five years since, with due attention to the suitable accommodation of its inmates; seven alms-houses with funds, for the erection of two more; a work-house, which cost L700; and finally, an excellent free-school, to the scholars of which are appropriated two fellowships at St. John's Cambridge, six scholarships, and three exhibitions. The trade of Beverley arises chiefly from the making of malt, oat-meal, and leather: formerly it was somewhat celebrated for clothing. The vicinity of the town, particularly towards the west, is rather pleasing; and commands several interesting prospects. At the distance of three miles, is the moated site of Lekingfield House, which was demolished, probably, about the end of the sixteenth century. The barbarous custom of baiting a bull on the day of the mayor being sworn into office, to the disgrace of the town, still continues. In the Grammar school were educated Bishops Allcock, Fisher, and Green; and here was painted as early as 1509, the figure of a man on horseback, by 'Hugh Goes.' Beverley is remarkable as being the birth-place of the following eminent persons, viz.: Aluridus, an ancient historian, who died in 1129. Dr. John Allcock, the founder of Jesus College, Oxford, who was the most celebrated divine, scholar, and architect of his time. In 1470, he was made a privy counsellor and embassador to the King of Castile. He was successively Bishop of Rochester, Worcester, and Ely, Lord High Chancellor of England, and lord President of Wales. In his capacity of an architect, few, if any, ever excelled him, and his correct judgment in this science procured him the appointment of Comptroller of the Royal Works. He founded the Grammar School of Kingston upon Hull, and built a chapel, on the south side of the church, where his parents were buried. The beautiful hall of the episcopal palace of Ely was erected from his design and at his expense. He very elegantly enlarged the parish church of Westbury, and built that sumptuous and beautiful chapel in the Presbytery of Ely Cathedral, where he was buried, and which remains at the present day, a monument of his correct judgment; but all these fall into shadow, when compared with that gorgeous and exquisite mass of enrichment, Henry the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster; of which, if he was not the immediate designer, he was at least the able manager and superintendant of its erection--a monument of pious munificence that will be endeared to every lover of art, when the living temple of its projector is forgotten. He died at his castle of Wisbeach, October 1, 1500.--John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, was born here in 1459. His father was so eminent a scholar and divine, that Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., although unknown to him, sent for him, and appointed him her domestic chaplain; and to his councils posterity are mainly indebted for those magnificent foundations, St. John's and Christ's College at Cambridge. This amiable bishop, with all his virtues, could not preserve himself from the malignity of "the worst of England's monarchs"--Henry VIII.; and under the pretence of being inimical to the marriage of the king with Ann Bolyen, he was thrown into prison, and most barbarously treated; here he continued for nearly a year, and might have been left to die of ill treatment and old age, had it not been for the unseasonable mark of respect paid him by Pope Paul III., who created him, May 15, 1535, Cardinal Priest of St. Vitalis. Henry forbade the hat to be brought into England, and sent Lord Cromwell to examine the Bishop about the affair. "My Lord of Rochester," (says Cromwell) "what would you say if the Pope should send you a Cardinal's hat," upon which the Bishop replied, "Sir, I know myself to be so far unworthy of such dignity that I think of nothing less; but if any thing should happen assure yourself that I should improve that favour to the best advantage that I could, by assisting the Holy Catholic Church of Christ, and in that respect I would receive it upon my knees." When the answer was brought, the king said in a great passion, "yea! is he yet so lusty--well, let the Pope send him a hat when he will--mother of God! he shall wear it on his shoulders then, for I will leave him never a head to set it on." His ruin being now determined, but hardly daring to take his life upon such trivial grounds, the king sent that most fawning and contemptible creature, Sir Richard Rich, Solicitor-General, to draw from him something that might convict him. This wiley wretch gradually drew from him a private opinion concerning the king's supremacy, telling the Bishop at the same time, that it was a scruple of the King's conscience that made him ask for it. Thus entrapped he was not allowed to make a defence, but was tried by a bill of attainder for high treason, and executed on the 22d of the same month, and his head placed on London bridge. Thus perished this good, but ill-fated prelate, in the 77th year of his age, which dreadful tragedy, as Bishop Burnet observes, "Has left one of the greatest blots upon this kingdom's proceedings."--The Rev. John Green was also a native of this place, he was born in 1706, educated at the Grammar School here, and finished his university education at St. John's College, Cambridge, where he became master of arts; he afterwards engaged himself as usher of a school at Litchfield, where he became acquainted with Dr. Johnson, and Mr. Garrick. In 1730, he was elected a fellow of St. John's College, and soon afterwards the Bishop procured for him the vicarage of Hingeston. In 1744, Charles, Duke of Somerset, and Chancellor of the University, made him his domestic chaplain. In June 1750, he was elected master of Bennet College, and in 1756, Dean of Lincoln, then Vice-chancellor of the University of Cambridge; and at last, through the influence of his patron, the Duke of Newcastle, preferred to the See of Lincoln. He was the friend and colleague of Archbishop Secker, who had always a just esteem for his virtues and abilities. After the death of Lord Willoughby, of Parham, in 1765, the literary meetings of the Royal Society used to be held in his lordship's house, as one of its most accomplished members. In June 1761, he exerted his problematical talents in two letters "On the Principles and Practice of the Methodists," which he addressed to the Rev. Mr. Berridge and Mr. Whitfield; and to the honour of this prelate be it spoken, that when the Bill for the Relief of the Dissenters, was brought before the House of Lords, in May 1772, and lost upon a division of 102 to 27, he was the only member of the clerical brotherhood, who voted in its favour. He died suddenly at Bath, April 25, 1779. This elegant scholar was one of the writers of the celebrated "Athenian Letters," published by the Earl of Hardwick, in 1798, 2 vols. 4to. Beverley returns two Members to Parliament. The L10 householders are about 507. The returning officer is the Mayor.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Thursday before Old
Valentine; Holy Thursday; July 5; November 5, for horses and sheep;
and every alternate Wednesday for horned cattle.--_Bankers_, Machell
and Co.; draw on Glyn and Co.; Bower and Co., draw on Curries and
Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.45 morning; departs 6.0 afternoon.--_Inn_,
Tiger.

[Sidenote: Its origin and early history.]

[Sidenote: Ancient superstitions.]

[Sidenote: Public edifices.]

[Sidenote: Dr. John Allcock born here.]

[Sidenote: Bishop Fisher born here.]

[Sidenote: His head placed on London-bridge.]

[A] BEWCASTLE is supposed to have been a Roman station, and garrisoned by part of the Legio Secunda Augusta, as a security to the workmen who were employed in erecting the famous wall, it is situated in the midst of a wild and unfrequented district, in the Ward of Eskdale. Some vestiges of ancient buildings still remain, and numerous Roman coins and inscriptions have been discovered here. The present name of the village is reported to have been derived from Bueth, who was Lord of the Manor at the time of the Conquest, and is said to have repaired a Roman castle here, and called it after his own name. The castle was of a square form, each front about twenty-nine yards in length: it is now in ruins: the south side, of which there are most remains, is nearly fourteen yards high. This structure was destroyed by the parliamentary forces in the year 1641. It seems to have been a dark gloomy fortress. Gils Bueth, the son of Bueth, mentioned above, was treacherously killed by Robert De Vallibus, at a meeting which had been held for friendly purposes. His possessions then fell to the crown, and were bestowed by Henry II. on the last Hubert de Vallibus, whose daughter conveyed them to the family of the Multons by marriage. The estates afterwards passed through several hands. Bewcastle in the fifth of Charles I. was granted to Sir Robert Graham, in whose family it remains. Upon one occasion the captain of Bewcastle is said to have made an incursion into Scotland, in which he was defeated and forced to fly. Watt Tinlinn, a celebrated retainer of the Buccleuch family, who held for his border service a small tower on the frontiers of Liddisdale, pursued him. Watt Tinlinn was, by profession, a cobbler, but by inclination and practice an archer, and warrior. He closely followed the fugitive through a dangerous morass: the captain, however, gained the firm ground; and seeing Tinlinn dismounted, and floundering in the bog, used these words of insult: "Sutor Watt, ye cannot sew your boots: the heels _risp_, and the seams _rive_." "If I cannot sew," retorted Tinlinn, discharging a shaft, which nailed the captain's thigh to his saddle. "If I cannot sew, I can yerk." Bewcastle Church is a small edifice, standing on a rising ground near the castle, a fosse surrounding them both. In the churchyard is a celebrated obelisk, which has for many years attracted the attention of the curious. Its height is fourteen feet, two inches: its breadth, on the bottom of the broadest side, is one foot ten: on the top was originally a cross, which is supposed to have been abolished in some ebullition of popular enthusiasm. Various sculptured ornaments appear on its different sides, executed with much fancy, together with an illegible Roman inscription, and some human figures. On the wastes of Bewcastle parish, several thousands of sheep and black cattle are annually fed. The inhabitants of the parish live chiefly in single and scattered houses; their religious opinions are mostly conformable to the doctrines of the church of England; but about thirty years ago a meeting house was built for a small congregation of Presbyterians. In this parish, a fine is paid of four years, ancient rent, on change of the Lord of the Manor by death: or of the tenants either by death or alienation: besides various customary works and carriages; and for a heriot, the best beast of which the tenant may die possessed, except the riding-horse kept for the lord's service. Bewcastle parish has two schools supported by subscription, the masters of which have a salary of about ten pounds a year, and the privilege of a whittle-gate. The custom of whittle-gate was formerly much observed in this and the neighbouring counties: it consists in the master going to all the abodes of his scholars in rotation, and being supplied with victuals by the parents or friends.

[Sidenote: Anecdote of Watt Tinlinn.]

[Sidenote: Ancient fine]

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter XIII: Part 13

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