Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11

Chapter IV: Part 4

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[A] ARKENGARTH-DALE contains lead mines, which were worked in the reign of King John, and they are still so valuable, that a few years ago the produce was estimated at 2000 tons annually; the inhabitants are chiefly miners.

[Sidenote: Valuable lead mines.]

[B] ARLSEY, or ARSLEY. This village was anciently a market town. In "Doomsday Book," (a book made by order of William the Conqueror, in which all the estates of the kingdom were registered;) its market on Wednesday is recorded, and the tolls valued at 10s. per annum. A fair was held here so long past as the year 1270; but both the market and fair have long been disused. An ancient entrenchment near the road to Baldock, called Etonbury, was probably the original site of the castle occupied by the Lords of the Manor. This castle appears to have a place of considerable strength. Amongst the ancient monuments in the church is one erected to the memory of Richard Edwards, who is called on his epitaph, the last Grand Reader of the Temple.

[Sidenote: An ancient entrenchment.]

[C] ARMATHWAITE. Near this village is a castle, situated on the of the delightful river Eden, in a deep vale; the building from its monastic gloom, appears rather to have been calculated for seclusion than security. The front has been modernized, and is built of hewn stone. Its antiquity has not been ascertained, certain it is the Skeltons resided here as early as the reign of Henry VIII. The most romantic and picturesque scenery surrounds this lovely spot. A magnificent hill throws its solemn shade on the tranquil surface of the river, here broadened into a lake like form. Amongst other grand masses of rock is a projecting crag of a bold and grotesque form called the Cat Glent, the rendezvous of many wild inhabitants of the feline tribe; beyond these is a mill and a few sequestered cottages. From this spot the river Eden is no longer tranquil, but rushing down a cataract pours in sonorous violence over a bed of opposing rock, whose immovable crags whirl the stream into eddies as it passes them in its fury. Near this place a nunnery was established by William Rufus, who like other profligates, "trembled amidst his impiety," and was willing enough to secure a chance of heaven, provided it could be obtained by any other means than virtuous practice. At the dissolution of Monasteries, owing to the frequent hostilities between the Scots and English, their income amounted to only 18 guineas per annum.

[Sidenote: Rendezvous of wild cats]

[Sidenote: Nunnery founded by William II.]

[D] ARMITAGE is situated on the river Soar, in the hundred of Offlow, South, including the hamlet of Handsacre. The entrance to the church is very curiously built in the Saxon style, and the chapel is separated from the nave by a handsome arch. The Grand Trunk Canal passes through a very noble subterraneous cavern or tunnel, in this parish. The town received its name from having been the residence of a hermit.

[Sidenote: A remarkable tunnel.]

[E] ARMLEY. This township is in the parish of St. Patrick, and the liberty of Leeds. It is situated on the banks of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and of the river Aire, on which there are a number of mills employed in various branches of the clothing trade. An object once of great antiquarian curiosity, called Giants Hill, which was a Danish fortification, is now scarcely traceable, in consequence of its having been cut through to form the Leeds and Liverpool canal.

[A] ARRINGTON. This village was anciently called Ermington. It is near Lord Hardwicke's Park. At this place, in the year 1721, the skeletons of sixteen human bodies were found in digging for a water course, within two feet of the surface of the ground. Some pieces of iron much rusted, conjectured to have been pieces of swords were also found. It is supposed the skeletons were the remains of persons who had been killed in endeavouring to obtain possession of the pass over the river Cam, during the civil wars.

[Sidenote: Sixteen skeletons found here.]

[B] ARTHURET. This village is situated on a point of land which in early times was said to have been called Arthur's Head, from whence the name is derived. In this place was both born and buried, Archibald Armstrong, Jester to both King James I., and Charles I. By an incident suitable to his profession, his funeral took place on "All Fools Day," the first of April. He was banished the court for speaking too freely of Archbishop Laud's measure of introducing the Liturgy into Scotland, which had produced a considerable tumult. On the arrival of the news of these riots in England, Archy facetiously asked his grace, "Who's the fool now." The joke was bitterly resented by the prelate, who procured an order of council to banish him from the court, for speaking disrespectful words of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This parish is bounded partly by Solway Frith, and forms part of the debateable lands so celebrated in Scottish history; these lands and the celebrated Solway Moss, we shall have occasion to speak further of in the course of the work.

[Sidenote: A merry jester buried on "All Fool's Day."]

[C] ARUNDEL, is situated on the declivity of a hill, on the north bank of the river Arun, over which there is a bridge. It consists of two principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other westward from the point of the union. Many of the houses are built in the castellated style. The church, situated at the north end of the town, originally belonged to a priory of Benedictines, and is supposed to have been founded soon after the conquest of Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome gothic building with transepts, from the centre of which rises a square tower, with a wooden spire. Some beautiful monuments of the Earls of Arundel may be seen; and one, more magnificent than the rest, is of alabaster, a calcareous earth, which differs from marble, in being combined not with carbonic, but with sulphuric acid. This monument is erected to the memory of Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice, his countess, a daughter of John, King of Portugal. The charter by which the town is governed, was granted by Queen Elizabeth. It formerly sent two members, but by the Reform Bill, it now sends but one; the ten pound householders are calculated at 380. The borough comprises the parish of Arundel and the returning officer is the mayor. Here was formerly a harbour sufficient to contain vessels of one hundred tons burthen, but it has suffered great damage by the sea. Great quantities of timber for ship building, are still shipped from this place, which has but little trade, yet it is much benefitted in summer by the numerous visitors who resort to it for sea bathing. Of the castle, which stands on the north-east side of the town, mention is first made in the will of King Alfred, who bequeathed it, with the town, to his nephew Adhelm. A popular tradition ascribes the foundation of it to Beris, "a giant of ancient times," in confirmation of which opinion a tower is still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Conqueror gave it to his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel, which title belonged to three persons of this family, till Robert Bellesme was outlawed by Henry I. for the assistance he gave to that monarch's brother, Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen Adeliza, who, after the death of her royal consort, gave her hand to William de Albini, one of the most accomplished men of his age. Here the dowager-queen performed the rites of hospitality towards the Empress Maud, in the attempt of that princess to ascend the throne. The last male heir of the name of Albini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband, John Fitz-Alan, made the castle his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. The fourth in descent from him forfeited his life and estates, in the attempt to ruin the Despensers, favourites of Edward II.; but the estates were restored to his son, whose successor, in the reign of Richard II., being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and put to death the lords of the council, was beheaded; the king presiding at the execution. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV.; but, he dying without issue, in 1415, the castle devolved to his cousin, Sir John Fitz-Alan, who laid claim to, and obtained the title, on which an act was passed, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred the dignity of Earl without creation. The last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d of Elizabeth, leaving a daughter, who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate into that family, to whom they still belong.

[Sidenote: Beautiful monuments in the church.]

[Sidenote: Quantities of Sussex oak shipped from this place.]

[Sidenote: Tradition ascribes the foundation of the castle to a giant.]

[Sidenote: The king presided at the execution of one of its lords.]

Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a proof is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings. In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The tower and gateway facing the base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants' offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble edifice, for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrangements were formed entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest grain.

[Sidenote: The great antiquity of the castle.]

[Sidenote: The castle dungeons of remarkable depth.]

[Sidenote: Remarkable owls]

[Sidenote: The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient magnificence.]

[Sidenote: Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.]

In the Barons room the following inscription appears:--

"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,

EARL OF ARUNDEL,

in the year of Christ, 1806,
in the 60th year of his age,
dedicated this stone
To Liberty, asserted by the Barons,
in the reign of John."

On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancient armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England. Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk.

[Sidenote: Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held here.]

The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations. There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine service, and on every Monday in the year.

[Sidenote: The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.]

When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, should be expended for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since fallen in--and the increased income that has been produced by that cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the Norfolk family.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 7.40. A.M.,
departs 5.30. P.M.--_Fairs_, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21,
hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17,
cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for
cattle.--_Bankers_, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins
and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown, and Norfolk Arms.

[Sidenote: Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair.]

[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by the post-master, who made great havoc in the choir of the cathedral, using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne. Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr. Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died 1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the cathedral.

_Market_ Saturday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16,
December 26, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Lion.

[Sidenote: The font of the cathedral used for watering horses.]

[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli--some circular, others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone rock, consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which always stands at one temperature.

[Sidenote: Pate Hole, an immense cavern.]

Map| Names of Places.|County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+
39|Ascott ham|Warwick|Shipston 7|L. Compton 3|
31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford |Bensington 5|Dorchester 4|
39|Ascott pa|Oxford | ... 5| ... 4|
34|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Sleaford 3|Tattershall 11|
24|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Spilsby 6|Horncastle 6|
10|Ash ham|Derby |Derby 7|Uttoxeter 11|
21|Ash pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Sandwich 3|
21|Ash pa|Kent |Farmingham 4|Gravesend 7|
37|Ash pa|Surrey |Farnham 4|Bagshot 9|
16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Hants |Whitchurch 6|Basingstoke 7|
11|Ashe[A] ham|Devon |Colyton 2|Lyme 4|
+--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+
|Dist. |
Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From|Lond. |Population.
+--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+
39|Ascott ham|Kineton 12| 78| ...|
31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford 10| 61| 97|
39|Ascott pa|Oxford 10| 51| 419|
34|Asgarby pa|Falkingham 8| 114| 146|
24|Asgarby pa|Tattershall 10| 138| 57|
10|Ash ham|Burton-on-T. 7| 136| 50|
21|Ash pa|Ramsgate 8| 63| 2416|
21|Ash pa|Wrotham 4| 20| 586|
37|Ash pa|Godalming 8| 35| 2001|
16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Kingsclere 6| 53| 114|
11|Ashe[A] ham|Axminster 4| 148| ...|
+--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+

[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this distinguished person was born here in the year 1650. He received only an indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his return from thence, he became the favourite of the Duchess of Cleveland, who gave him L5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel, gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne. In 1682, he was shipwrecked with the Duke of York, in their passage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a peer, by the title of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner. He continued to serve James with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly, with base ingratitude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and constitution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments, and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns, particularly Liege. In the following year he was created a Duke. In 1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours. He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England, and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament. Blenheim house was ordered to be built, and a pension of L5,000. a year was awarded him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year 1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. His Duchess outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but overbearing passions. Her letters have been printed, and display uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had married Sir Winston Churchill.

_Fairs_, April 6, and Oct. 11, for pedlary.

[Sidenote: The birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'.]

[Sidenote: He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II.]

[Sidenote: Created a Duke by Queen Anne.]

[Sidenote: Blenheim house built for him.]

[Sidenote: Died in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I.]

[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the Duchy of Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the Cockaines, Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir Thomas Cockaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also a second for the poorer class of children of both sexes. Here are also a chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one of the polling places for the southern division of the county.

_Market_, Saturday.--Mail arrives 11 A.M., departs 2-3/4
P.M.--_Fairs_, first Tuesday in January, and Feb. 13, for horses and
horned cattle, April 3, May 21, and July 5, for horses, horned
cattle, and wool. August 16, October 20, and November 29, for horses,
and horned cattle; the fairs for horses begin two or three days
before the fair-day.--_Inns_, Blackmoor's Head and Green
Man.--_Bankers_, Arkwright and Co.; drawn on Smith, Payne, and Co.

[Sidenote: A royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of Lancaster.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
38|Ashburnham[A] pa|Sussex |Battle 6|Hailsham 6|
11|Ashburton[B] }|Devon |Exeter 20|Torquay 13|
| bo. m.t. & pa}| | | |
4|Ashbury to & pa|Berks |Lambourn 16|Wantage 10|
11|Ashbury pa|Devon |Hatherleigh 5|Oakhampton 6|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Gt. Grimsby 7|Caistor 9|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 2|Burgh 3|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Sleaford 6|Lincoln 13|
24|Ashby to|Lincoln |Brigg 6|Epworth 7|
27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Norwich 8|Acle 7|
27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Acle 3|Norwich 12|
36|Ashby pa|Suffolk |Lowestoft 5|Yarmouth 8|
28|Ashby, Cold pa|Northamp |Northamp 12|Daventry 10|
23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|Leicester|Leicester 18|Kegworth 10|
| [C] m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
38|Ashburnham[A] pa|East Bourne 11| 55| 721|
11|Ashburton[B] }|Totness 7| 192| 4165|
| bo. m.t. & pa}| | | |
4|Ashbury to & pa|Highworth 7| 70| 698|
11|Ashbury pa|Launceston 14| 201| 74|
24|Ashby pa|Louth 12| 160| 179|
24|Ashby pa|Wainfleet 6| 134| 170|
24|Ashby pa|Navenby 6| 121| 178|
24|Ashby to|Gainsboro' 14| 157| 378|
27|Ashby pa|Bungay 9| 116| 72|
27|Ashby pa|Yarmouth 8| 125| 82|
36|Ashby pa|Beccles 7| 119| 42|
28|Ashby, Cold pa|Harborough 10| 78 | 385|
23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|M Bosworth 10| 115| 4727|
| [C] m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHBURNHAM is in the hundred of Foxearle, and rape of Hastings. This village gives the name and title of Earl to the representatives of the ancient family of Ashburnham, who possessed this manor before the conquest. The shirt and white silk drawers in which Charles I. was executed, on the 30th of January, 1649, and also the watch which he gave to Mr. John Ashburnham, on the scaffold, are still preserved in the church, having been bequeathed by one of his descendants to the clerk of this parish for ever, and are exhibited as great curiosities.

[Sidenote: Bequests of Charles I. made on the scaffold.]

[B] ASHBURTON is situated in a valley encompassed by hills; it is about a mile from the river Dart, and consists principally of one long street, through which runs the high road from London to Plymouth. The houses are neat, and most of them covered with slate, of which there is abundance in the vicinity. The manor belonged to the crown in the reign of James I., but it has since passed through various private hands. The town, which is governed by a portreeve, chosen at the court leet and baron of the manor, is a borough by prescription, (that is to say, a custom continued until it has the force of law;) and was constituted one of the four stannary towns of Devon, by a charter of Edward I., in the twenty-sixth year of whose reign it sent two members to Parliament, but only returned members once subsequently until 1640, in which year its privilege was restored: by the late reform bill, it now returns but one member; the electors on the old constituency were 101, and L10 householders 342. The portreeve is the returning-officer. The borough comprises the parish of Ashburton.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, first Thursday in March; first Thursday
in June; August 10; November 11, for horned cattle.--_Inns_, London
and Golden Lion.--_Mail_ arrives 5 P.M., departs 9-3/4 A.M.

[Sidenote: One of the four stannary towns of the county.]

[C] ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH is situated in a fertile valley on the borders of Derbyshire, through which runs the small river Gilwiskaw. Its distinctive appellation is derived from the ancient family of the Zouches, who came into possession of the manor in the reign of Henry III. It afterwards devolved to the crown, by which it was granted to the noble family of Hastings, in right of whom the Marquis of that title still possesses it. The town is chiefly comprised in one street, from which branches several smaller ones. The church is a handsome ancient edifice, built of stone, consisting of a nave and two aisles, separated by four lofty arches, springing from fluted pillars. Here are also places of worship for the Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists, Presbyterians, and others. A free grammar school was founded in this town by Henry Earl of Huntingdon, in 1567; and another free school for 26 boys, by Isaac Dawson, in 1669. The manufactures established here are chiefly those of cotton and woollen stockings, and hats. There is also a good trade in malt, and the fairs are celebrated for the sale of fine horses and cattle. The mansion at Ashby was remarkable for its magnitude and strength, and continued for 200 years the residence of the family of Sir William Hastings, knt., a particular favourite of Edward IV., who was elevated by that monarch to several offices of high trust and dignity. It stood on a rising ground, at the south end of the town, and was composed of brick and stone from the ruins of Ashby Castle.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Shrove-Monday, Easter Tuesday,
Whit-Tuesday, last Monday in September, November 10, for horses,
cows, and sheep.--_Bankers_, Fishers and Co.; draw upon Hoare,
Barnet, and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.30 morning; departs 4.0
afternoon.--_Inns_, Queen's Head, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: An ancient family gave their name to the town.]

[Sidenote: A noble mansion constructed out of the ruins of Ashby Castle.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
23|Ashby Folville to & pa|Leicester|Melton Mow. 6|Leicester 10|
23|Ashby Magna pa|Leicester|Lutterworth 4|Hinckley 11|
23|Ashby Parva pa|Leicester| ... 3| ... 8|
24|Ashby Puerorum[A] pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 5|Alford 7|
28|Ashby St. Ledger[B] pa|Northamp |Daventry 4|Northamp 14|
+--+----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
23|Ashby Folville to & pa|Houghton 6| 104| 391|
23|Ashby Magna pa|Leicester 11| 93| 330|
23|Ashby Parva pa| ... 13| 92| 169|
24|Ashby Puerorum[A] pa|Louth 10| 137| 101|
28|Ashby St. Ledger[B] pa|Welford 9| 76| 257|
+--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHBY PUERORUM. In the year 1804, a Roman sepulchre was discovered near this place, by a labourer who was cutting a ditch. It consisted of a stone chest, which laid 3 feet below the surface of the earth; the lid fitted nearly to the sides, hanging a little over the edge, so that when it was removed; no dirt of any kind was found to have gained admittance during a period of nearly two thousand years. The chest was formed of free stone, of a kind found in abundance on Lincoln Heath. The urn was of strong glass well manufactured, and of a greenish colour. The glass was as perfect and the surface as smooth as if just taken out of the fire. This receptacle of the ashes was nearly filled with small pieces of bone, many of which, from the effect of ignition, were white throughout the whole substance. Among the fragments was discovered a small lacrymatory, which had been broken, from the curiosity of the person who discovered it, to ascertain whether it contained any thing of value.

[Sidenote: A very ancient urn of green glass found here.]

[B] ASHBY ST. LEDGER is situated near a rivulet that flows into the river Nen. The additional name of St. Ledger is borrowed from the patron saint to whom the church is dedicated. This structure consists of a nave and aisles, with a tower and spire. At the upper end of the north aisle are still remaining the steps which led to the rude loft between the chancel and the nave. Here are three piscinas for holy water. Several ancient monumental inscriptions may be seen in the chancel. On an altar tomb within the communion rails, are the recumbent figures of a man and woman, with an inscription in black letter, commemorative of William Catesby and Margaret his wife, bearing date 1493. Catesby was one of the three families who ruled the nation under Richard's usurpation, and constituted the triumvirate which is alluded to in the old distich:--

The rat, and the cat, and Lovel the dog,
Do govern all England under the hog.

The rat was Richard Ratcliff, the cat William Catesby, the dog Lord Lovel, and the hog for Richard, it being then the regal crest. William Catesby became a distinguished character; he was made esquire of the King's body; Chancellor of the Marshes for life; and one of the Chamberlains of the Exchequer. Being taken prisoner at the battle of Bosworth field, while fighting by his patron's side, he was conducted to Leicester, and beheaded as a traitor. At the eastern end of both aisles, are two places, formerly appropriated as places of sepulture for the two great Lords of Ashby. One of these belonged to the Catesby family; but most of the inscriptions are effaced. The manorial house of Ashby is a good old family mansion, occupied by the widow of the late John Ashby, Esq. A small room in the detached offices belonging to the house is still shown as having been the council-chamber, where the gunpowder-plot conspirators held their deliberations. Robert Catesby, one of the descendants of the family, was at the head of this conspiracy, for which he was tried, condemned, and executed; and his head, together with that of his father-in-law, Thomas Percie, who was involved in his guilt, were fixed on the top of the Parliament-house.

[Sidenote: An ancient monument of the Catesby family.]

[Sidenote: Catesby taken prisoner at Bosworth field.]

[Sidenote: The gunpowder plot conspirators met here.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+
24|Ashby West pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 2|Louth 12|
15|Ashchurch pa|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 1|Winchcombe 9|
11|Ashcombe[A] pa|Devon |Chudleigh 3|Exeter 9|
34|Ashcott chap|Somerset |Glastonbury 6|Bridgewater 10|
14|Ashdon or Ashingdon }| | | |
| to & pa}|Essex |Saff. Walden 4|Haverhill 6|
14|Asheldam pa|Essex |Bradwell 4|Burnham 4|
15|Ashelworth pa|Gloucester|Gloucester 5|Tewkesbury 8|
14|Ashen pa|Essex |Clare 2|Halstead 9|
5|Ashenden[B] pa|Bucks |Thame 6|Bicester 11|
36|Ashfield Great[C] pa|Suffolk |Stowmarket 7|Ixworth 5|
36|Ashfield-cum-Thorpe p|Suffolk |Framlingham 6|Debenham 2|
10|Ashford[D] chap|Derby |Bakewell 2|Tideswell 6|
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+
24|Ashby West pa|Wragby 13| 138| 391|
15|Ashchurch pa|Cheltenham 8| 103| 649|
11|Ashcombe[A] pa|Teignmouth 6| 177| 320|
34|Ashcott chap|Somerton 7| 129| 834|
14|Ashdon or Ashingdon }| | | |
| to & pa}|Linton 4| 45| 1103|
14|Asheldam pa|Maldon 9| 46| 144|
15|Ashelworth pa|Newent 7| 105| 540|
14|Ashen pa|Haverhill 5| 54| 373|
5|Ashenden[B] pa|Aylesbury 8| 46| 368|
36|Ashfield Great[C] pa|Botesdale 8| 76| 408|
36|Ashfield-cum-Thorpe p|Eye 9| 83| 375|
10|Ashford[D] chap|Buxton 10| 155| 782|
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+

[A] ASHCOMBE is a parish in the hundred of Exminster. Here is a mansion of Lord Arundel's, situated in a large amphitheatre of hills, richly wooded at their base, and at their summit often studded with herds of sheep or deer. The only entrance to this romantic dale is from the north, by a road, which though perfectly safe, falls precipitately down a narrow ridge of one of the hills.

[B] ASHENDEN. This manor has been from time immemorial in the Grenville family. John Bucktot, a priest, gave the manor of Little Pollicott, to Lincoln College, in Oxford, about 1479; and what renders it particularly remarkable, is the circumstance of the manor house being used as a retiring place for the members of the college at the time of the plague. In Ashenden Church, is an ancient figure of a crusader, under an arch, rudely ornamented with foliage; which according to tradition, is the tomb of John Bucktot; this appears however to be erroneous, as it is evidently the tomb of a layman, and from the chevron on the shield, one of the Stafford family, anciently lords of Great Pollicott.

[Sidenote: A retiring place for collegians in the time of the plague.]

[C] ASHFIELD. This obscure village gave birth to the celebrated Lord Chancellor Thurlow, and his brother, the late Bishop of Durham; they were the sons of the vicar, under whose auspices they were educated. On leaving the university, the former entered himself of the Inner Temple, but did not distinguish himself at the bar, until his abilities were employed upon the Douglas case; after which he became successively Solicitor-General, Attorney-General, and Lord High Chancellor. He was elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Thurlow, of Ashfield. In 1786, he was made Teller of the Exchequer, and created Baron Thurlow, of Thurlow: he retired in 1793, and died at Brighton in 1806. He was succeeded in the peerage by his nephew, the son of his brother, the Bishop of Durham. He was never married, but he left three illegitimate daughters, to two of whom he bequeathed large property; the other having offended him by an imprudent marriage, he left her only a small annuity.

[Sidenote: The birth-place of Lord Chancellor Thurlow.]

[D] ASHFORD. This village is frequently called Ashford in the water, from the lowness of its situation. It is seated on the banks of the river Wye. The only remains of the residence of the Plantagenets of Woodstock (who had a castle here) is a moat, half filled with rubbish. Sir William Cavendish, the favourite of Cardinal Wolsey, purchased this estate of the Earl of Westmoreland; and the Duke of Devonshire, a descendant of that family, still continues the proprietor. The works in this village for sawing and polishing marble, were the first ever established in England. They were originally constructed by Mr. Henry Watson, of Bakewell, about 80 years since, but though he obtained a patent, to secure the gain arising from this invention, the advantages were unequal to his expectations. Mr. John Platt, architect, of Rotherham, in Yorkshire, rented the quarries of black and grey marble, the only ones of the kind now worked in Derbyshire. The sweeping mill, as it is called, from its circular motion, will level a floor of eighty superficial feet of marble slabs at one time.

[Sidenote: Extensive works for sawing and polishing marble.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From
+--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+
11|Ashford pa|Devon |Barnstaple 2|Ilfracomb 8|
21|Ashford[A] m.t. & pa|Kent |Canterbury 15|Folkestone 17|
25|Ashford[B] chap|Middlesex|Staines 3|Bedfont 2|
33|Ashford Bowdler pa|Salop |Ludlow 3|Tenbury 6|
33|Ashford Carbonel pa|Salop |... 3|... 6|
23|Ashfordby pa|Leicester|Melton Mow. 3|Loughbro' 11|
29|Ash-holm ham|Northumb |Hexham 19|Haltwhistle 4|
27|Ashill pa|Norfolk |Watton 4|Swaffham 6|
34|Ashill[C] pa|Somerset |Ilminster 4|Taunton 8|
14|Ashingdon[D] pa|Essex |Rochford 3|Maldon 9|
+--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
11|Ashford pa|Marwood 2| 194| 99|
21|Ashford[A] m.t. & pa|Maidstone 19| 53| 2809|
25|Ashford[B] chap|Sunbury 3| 16| 458|
33|Ashford Bowdler pa|Leominster 9| 137| 99|
33|Ashford Carbonel pa| ... 9| 137| 289|
23|Ashfordby pa|Leicester 13| 108| 467|
29|Ash-holm ham|Aldstone 7| 279| 122|
27|Ashill pa|E. Dereham 10| 94| 700|
34|Ashill[C] pa|Chard 7| 137| 403|
14|Ashingdon[D] pa|Chelmsford 13| 40| 98|
+--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHFORD is situated about twelve miles from the sea, on an eminence rising from the northern bank of the small river Stour, and on the high road between Hythe and Maidstone. The town, which is a liberty of itself, originated from the ruins of Great Chart, an ancient market town, which gave name to the hundred, and was destroyed in the Danish wars. It was then called Asscheford, and, in some early documents, Estefort and Enetesford, from the ford over the river Stour; the ancient name of which was Esshe or Eschet. It is pleasantly situated near the confluence of the upper branches of the river Stour, over one of which there is a bridge. The manor received the privilege of a market so early as Edward I. The town is governed by a mayor, and possesses a court of record for the recovery of debts, not exceeding twenty marks. The church is a spacious and handsome fabric, consisting of a nave, aisles, and three chancels, with a lofty and well-proportioned tower. There are several ancient monuments, especially one of a Countess of Athol, who died in 1365, whose effigy exhibits the female costume of that age, in a very remarkable manner. The ancient college, founded by Sir John Fogge owner of the manor, in the reign of Edward IV., was dissolved in that of Henry VII., and the house given to the vicar for a residence. It still exists, although latterly much modernised. Here is a Free Grammar School, founded by Sir Norton Knatchbull, in the reign of Charles I., and various minor charities. The inhabitants of this town and its vicinity are much engaged in the rearing and fattening of cattle, for the sale of which its markets and fairs are much celebrated.

_Market_ Saturday. A stock market held on the 1st and 3rd Tuesday in
every month.--_Fairs_ May 17, and August 2, for wool; September 9,
October 12, and 24, for horses, cattle and pedlary.--_Inns_, George,
Royal Oak, and Saracen's Head.--_Bankers_, G. and W. Jemmett, draw on
Esdaile and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.15 afternoon.

[Sidenote: Origin of the town of Ashford.]

[Sidenote: The college made into a parsonage house:]

[B] ASHFORD. This place was originally called Exeford, from its ford over the river Exe; the village is now but of little importance. It lies in that level part of the county, formerly occupied by Hounslow Heath, the terror of the western traveller, from the numerous robberies committed on its highways. Ashford Common was selected for military reviews; it has however, for some years been inclosed, and the review ground is now near Hounslow. The chapel is a plain brick building, possessing no claims on the attention of the antiquary; it was erected in 1796 by voluntary contribution.

[Sidenote: Hounslow Heath.]

[C] ASHILL.--_Fairs_, April 9, and September 10.

[D] ASHINGDON. This place is memorable in the early periods of our history. "Nothing is more surprising," observes Gough, in his Additions to Camden, "than the errors all antiquaries have hitherto lain under with respect to the scene of the battle between Edmund Ironside and the Danes." Though they had the authority of Mr. Camden against them, they have caried it quite across the county to the northern extremity and as far from the sea as possible, in defiance of every circumstance that could fix it there. In a marsh in Woodham Mortimer parish, on the river Burnham or Crouch, are twenty-four barrows grouped in pairs, and most of them surrounded by a ditch, supposed to be the burial places of the Danes, who probably landed at Bradwell, a village near the mouth of the Blackwater River, fourteen miles distant.

[Sidenote: The site of an engagement between Edm. Ironside and the Danes.]

[A] ASHLEY, was formerly distinguished by a fair and market, it is now remarkable only for a large mansion, which was once the seat of the Georges. The church, an ancient building, with a square embattled tower, is principally interesting for its arches; some of which are round, and others pointed, resting on slender clustered pillars, with massy capitals of foliage. The font is large, round, and very rude in its workmanship.

[B] ASHOVER. This village is of great antiquity, being mentioned in the Doomsday Book, as having a church and a priest. In the church is an ancient font, supposed to be Saxon; the base is of stone; the lower part is of an hexagonal form; the upper part circular, surrounded with twenty figures, in devotional attitudes, embossed in lead, in ornamental niches. There are also some ancient monuments of the Babington family, who were for a long time seated at Dithicke, a chapelry in this parish. Anthony Babington was executed for high treason in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, having engaged in a conspiracy to destroy that princess. On the declivity of a hill on Ashover Common is a rocking stone, called Robin Hood's Mark, which measures about twenty-six feet in circumference. From its extraordinary position, it appears not only to have been the work of art, but to have been placed with great ingenuity. About 200 yards to the north is a singularly shaped work, called the Turning-stone, nine feet high: it is supposed to have been a rock idol. Overton Hall, in this vicinity, was once the seat of Sir Joseph Banks, the President of the Royal Society.

[Sidenote: A singular rocking stone, formerly an idol.]

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Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11Chapter IV: Part 4

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