Chapter III: Part 3

Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.

Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offered to have the _Physician’s Vade Mecum_ translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.

Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.

Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.

Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.

Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.

Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept a _haik_ and a _sulham_, the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot: it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [Blank][52] I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53] How I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.

Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would have me take a _sulham_ from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him some _pezetas_. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.

Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so well. _Pilula et haustus_.[54] Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the more provoking, as couriers are going daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it _ü_ ϋ 99̂9 [Symbol] oo 8999 ξχρσγ[55] _ta a_; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die; if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.

Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.

Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.

Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.

Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw the _Bó-áb_, who will die; had some differences with the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired early to rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.

Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues[56] for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].

Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.

Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59] has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a _coup de soleil_: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.

Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’s _táleb_[61] waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.

Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word _kamsa_ (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.

Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.

Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. _Inshá-llah_.

Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to 60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room: refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.

Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.

Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a _douar_, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.

Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.

Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality _tras_ (head), and _ermoot_ (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it: I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the _douars_[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.

Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.

Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.

Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.

Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.

Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several _douars_. The people here have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we here met with the _Klágh_ again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some refreshment; we then passed three large _douars_. At Auled es Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.

Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.

Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.

Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.

Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well.

Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture); it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart: the night cold.

Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.; the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but not being very well, retired early to rest.

Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire.

Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison, together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women: many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound; bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs, three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.

Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of patients. Felt rather poorly.

Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’ town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself, and had to lie by.

Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill; the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.

Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea, and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part of the day.

Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at the end of the week.

Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not very well: began with my vocabulary.

Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún; it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú, if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients.