Chapter VI: Part 6

Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah, as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject; although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at Gibraltar has done all the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah, which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth on each camel ............ looking like small canoes; many loads of reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar[105] dates and a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú, and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves, and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command, said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician; shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols, &c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger, dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them: they became alarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí Mohammed,’[106] and go any where. This was the general wind up, and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.

Tuesday, June 14.—Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me: they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth, and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place, but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days, and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days, where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again; from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses, and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and that one of his hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot, and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened: should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók (Sók el Múlíd)[107] commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S., is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen, although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh[108] (drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds, many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.

Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as the others. Foot very sore.

Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten: all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109] I have now been here two months, and there has not been a single death out of a population of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost starved. Mahmúd cut his stick[110] to-day. The sick are increasing, and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.

Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see, however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would give him some; and after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar; which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.

Saturday, June 18.—Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It is the glorious anniversary; how will it go off in London after a peace of twenty-one years. Hámed Damání is quite recovered, and the Sheïkh’s eyes are better: the latter cannot understand how some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number, and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances, I cannot expect to get off in less than a month; but only let that be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not venture to clean it: my things, once out of doors, would all go to rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day: the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer, ablution and eating: they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is brought. I am tired to death.

Sunday, June 19.—Therm. 80°. All are hard at work in packing up for the Sók Múlíd (Sok Assa), to which they go to-morrow. Another disgusting scene took place in the court-yard this morning. A fine woman was pulled about, and exposed amidst the jeers of all these beasts: as she was handsome, the price asked was 150 mithkáls; but none would offer more than 130. As the bargain was being concluded for some Aj and Reïsh, there was a short deficiency to make up; which, after much cavilling, was settled by throwing in a little boy. This was, indeed, a sad scene for a Sunday morning. Went to my den in disgust, where I read the prayers, and kept out of sight the rest of the day. The place is crowded with strangers. Spoke very strongly to the Sheïkh about my detention; he assured me that he was only consulting my safety; that in eight or ten days all arrangements would be completed, and begs of me to be patient.

Monday, June 20.—Therm. 76°. The house is comparatively quiet: most of the party are gone to Sók Múlíd. Had a quiet day, throughout the whole of which there was a cool breeze from the N.W. The sun set in a heavy bank running along the whole of the horizon.

Tuesday, June 21.—Therm. 68°. Up at one A.M. to take observations, &c.; the night was very clear, and the bank disappeared in the W.; the wind was N.W., with heavy clouds in the S.; the mist lowered to the tops of the houses: a heavy rain in the S.W. by W., but clear towards the N. At nine A.M. all the place was in commotion, and the Sheïkh and his people were off on horseback in different directions, to look for a thief, who got into the yard of the house last night, and stole the Sheïkh’s favourite white horse. The Sheïkh’s son has returned, but the Damánís and others are in full chase. The stolen horse was one of great speed, and the thief had eight hours start. It will be interesting to know when the Damánís will come up with him; they have got their Shérb el Ríh; have looked at the print of the horse’s feet and his dung, and they will be sure to trace him by either sight or scent: like the B’híls in India, if they once see the track they never lose it. At ten P.M. one man returned, who stated that the Damánís said the horse had stopped, and they would now find him before morning. The man who brought this intelligence had ridden sixty miles, without intermission, on a mere bag of bones. The horses from here are not like the Shérb el Ríh; they are knocked up after five hours’ work: but the animals were all fresh when this man left them. My horse was to have gone with the rest; but as the brute of a son of the Sheïkh Mahmúd had thrown him down, being a very bad rider, and had broken both his knees, I would not let the poor creature go. The Sheïkh Beïrúk says, he would have kept up with the best of them; and I know that those of Hámed Damání, of Hájí Ibráhím, of Sídí ’Alí, of Zeïn, and of Habíb, can go for three days. I should certainly have liked mine to be tried. But his state was not such as to warrant the experiment; although the people said that he would go just as well with broken knees as sound ones. No post arrived.

Wednesday, June 22.—Therm. 70°. Heavy and lowering; got cold towards the afternoon. Feeling unwell kept the house. No post.

Thursday, June 23.—Therm. 80°. The Damánís returned late yesterday, and without the horse, which they say is concealed somewhere. It had not gone beyond the place they reached; they supposed it had its shoes changed, and was taken to Sók Múlíd, where a party was dispatched this morning. The lock of the door of the Sheïkh’s house was picked by means of some hard paste of flour and water. The locks are all of wood, and the fastening consists of three or four small pegs of wood, which fall into corresponding holes. By forcing in the paste, the pegs were thrown up, and the door opened without any noise, and the horse stolen. The Sheïkh was more vexed at its happening during my stay here, than at the loss of the animal. I am out of health, spirits and temper. Kept my room the whole day.

Friday, June 24.—Therm. 80°. In the evening, after an uneasy day, the post arrived, bringing a letter from Mr. Willshire, which astonished me. I have been robbed right and left by the villain Majíbí, who states that he paid 320 ducats for me in Sús, or I should have been taken and sold; that Sheïkh ’Alí called me his prize, and he would have 500 for me. This fellow is the prince of scoundrels. The people from Taghakánth, for whom the Sheïkh had written, arrived in the course of the day, and I hope to-morrow to know what they mean to do.

Saturday, June 25.—Therm. 82°. Very hot and close; a melting day before us. Had a long conference with the Damánís; but nothing was said on the subject of my going. They made repeated attacks on the creed of the Christians, and spoke of the impossibility of our going to heaven without the aid of the prophet. I was strongly urged to turn Mohammedan: they would give me camels, nákahs, slaves, &c. I was at length obliged to silence them. After this came the newspapers, out of which I made some extracts, which Abú read to them in Arabic, and with which they were highly pleased. They hoped the Sultán would persist in attacking the French: they said that these districts could furnish, mount, and arm fifty thousand men; but though they are fond of exaggeration, I think that twenty thousand might be raised in this quarter. A man has come this day to say, that he knows of two Christian slaves in the desert; they are Spaniards. He wishes to know if I would buy them, or if the consul at Suweïrah or Tangier would. After this, he asked me for some medicines. I gave him a settler, by asking how he could come to me a Christian, and ask for medicines, when he had taken these poor Christians, and meant to sell them? Upon this, some words ensued; to which the arrival of the Sheïkh put a stop. I told him to go to Suweïrah, and asked how could he expect mercy, who shewed so little to others? The heat very oppressive to-day. The Damánís were right: the stolen horse did not go beyond the place they pointed out. They have this day returned, having taken the thief, and his brother, who had stolen three cows: they had ridden the horse to death. The two brothers have made a pretty disclosure. They were sent by the son of Sídí Hasan to murder Billah, a confidential servant of the Sheïkh, who had left the service of Sídí Hasan, because the son of the latter had violated the wife of Billah. If they could not kill Billah, they were to seize and carry away his present wife, who is a pretty woman; and, failing in that, they were to steal the Sheïkh’s favourite horse, as a punishment for protecting Billah, who, with his wife, escaped both the murder and abduction, and the Sheïkh’s horse fell the sacrifice. For this pretty job the fellows were to have about three shillings each. I hope the Sheikh will shoot them. At length the Damánís have been to my rooms, and told me, that if no káfilah is to go for some time, they will proceed with me. I like them much; they are fine specimens of wild men, but not savages. A large party of them came in the evening, and staid till one A.M., and only left me to go and eat.

Saturday, June 26.—Therm. 82°. Symptoms of heat by the haze over the mountains; spoke to the Sheïkh, and all appears to be settled, but the main point is the money. If this is to be exorbitant, I shall give up the thing at once. This question is to be arranged, when Hájí Majíbí comes home. I fear I shall have a quarrel with that fellow before I get off. The Sheïkh recommends the káfilah: I am aware it would be the safer course, but I could not so well make notes and observations, and should be bored to death for advice and medicines during the whole road. If it goes soon, however, I shall join it; if not, I shall proceed with my five or six people. Read the prayers; most of the people here come to listen, although they could not understand a word. The tribe of Ergebát[111] has sent a deputation to the Sheïkh, and have this day been heard, and have explained the cause of their attack upon the Taghakánths. The Sheïkh decided in favour of the Ergebáts, and there is to be a reconciliation and friendship. I must try to profit by this event, and get past the Ergebáts before hostilities are renewed, which will be soon the case. The heat has been oppressive to-day; I am rather glad of it, as it helps to season me for the desert. Hope my party will not come this evening. This is one of the great feasts amongst the Muselmáns; but it is not kept here. The 12th of Safer is Mohammed’s birth-day. Went to rest early, fearing my party would come.

Monday, June 27.—Therm. 86°. The heat has become very oppressive. An express has arrived from Taghakánth, with a report that the place has been attacked by the Ergebáts, who mustered nine hundred men; while the Taghakánths, who were taken by surprise, could bring together only three hundred to meet the enemy: these, however, were sufficient to defeat their assailants, after killing ninety of them, with a very trifling loss on their own part. This is bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing the district of the Ergebáts. The Damánís have set off in haste for their place. Hájí Majíbí has returned; he is brought down considerably, and came in a very humble manner to pay his respects: he is a consummate scoundrel. Had a visit from Mas’úd, who wished to give me a Tumbuktú quilt; but I can take no presents, and he left me in dudgeon at my refusal. I dislike this man more and more. Things are at last in a train; but I had a threatener this morning, having nearly fallen two or three times, in consequence of the great heat and excitement, and the immoderate use of tobacco. I shall try to leave off the pipe, and begin reducing the quantity of fluid. Very weak tea and water have been my only drink for more than three months; and I must now leave off the tea. Attended the unpacking of the ivory: some of the teeth are immense. Abú tells me, that I shall see some as large rotting on dunghills; that the people about Kong live entirely upon elephants, and are constantly employed in hunting them. The small tusks are used for music; but from the want of means of transport, the large ones are thrown away. Hámed has just been here to take leave: he is a most grateful creature, and promises that wherever I meet any people of his tribe, they will respect Ján and Yaghá. He then said he had one more favour to ask: I had cured him, and had given him too many things; but as he knew I could do any thing, “I love,” said he, “the daughter of the brother of my father; she is the prettiest woman in our tribe; I am dying for her; but she does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh’s son, and shall be the Sheïkh myself; give me such a charm, as shall force her to love me.” It was in vain that I told him, I had no love-charm. He said that I had given one to the son of the Sheïkh of Dar’ah, and that his wife had come back to him. I had then to make up a story that I must see the lady, and, as she is unmarried, fold the charm, while she looked on. This he is convinced will prove effectual; and when I get to Taghakánth I am to make him happy. I don’t know what he has promised to do for me. My two guides remain here to make the necessary arrangements about our start. I have been asked, if I will fight, should we be attacked, and have had to give a specimen of my ability to use a sword and pistols. My powder and ball, and every thing else was approved of, and I am promised that all will be well; but that I must make up my mind to some suffering; that they will carry extra water for me, but one Samúm[112] may drink it all up. The die is cast, and I must run the hazard.

Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first death since I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.

Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills, &c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day: took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours; went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.

Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire, &c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till two A.M. writing.

Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give, without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has got abroad of my being one of the royal family of England; that I have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.

Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills to complete the number, where one would require three, and another only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request, and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.

Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.

Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots; I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him, he will make an oath AHAD .................. that he will conduct me in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.

Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior, is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing: I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing, where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man, and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated, that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night, and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after counting my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot: he then examined the knee-pan and cried out _Wáhed aëdá_, ‘only one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this, as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes, &c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also that Lamdo Lillahi[113] stands on the river, whereas the map makes it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.

Wednesday, July 6.—Therm. 84°. At eleven A.M. the town was alarmed by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At two P.M. most of the people returned: the report was only partially true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance, but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious for the villain Majíbí and his party to leave me; I cannot bear the sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I had only protection here, I would give him the stick.

Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day, as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit to ripen. At one P.M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.

Friday, July 8.—Therm. 82°. Felt poorly all day. _Dies non_.

Saturday, July 9.—Therm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start for Suweïrah on Monday. Feel far from well. Went to the medicine chest: but find that the least dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Damánís are anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a presentiment that it will be a failure.

Sunday, July 10°.—Therm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for the constitution, as the excessive heat has been succeeded by a very cold wind in the evening, and this followed by a most sultry night. All the people are fully occupied in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c.; I find that the ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador it brings sixty dollars: the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very poorly all day, and did not go out.

Monday, July 11.—Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The káfilah had hardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring tribe, as one of the Sheïkh’s friends had been killed by a Marabout of that people: after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as the Marabout was _non compos_, there could be no intention of an insult, and thus instead of a fight we had a feast. The Damánís are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear I must give all the money: it is an anxious time for me. There is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah[114] people are not over civil. The Sheïkh, poor man, is desirous to pay me every attention; but he is fearful of enforcing a proper authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice personified. The heat is excessive.

Tuesday, July 12.—Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing to-day; the sun literally scorches: all are gasping. The slaves are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahrá on such a day, twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat still tremendous. I have been drinking tea for more than an hour, and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves: hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between the Sheïkh and his son; but matters are, I suppose, now made up, as the son came to pray in his father’s room. Some ostrich marrow was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself somewhat better than yesterday.

Wednesday, July 13.—Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am looking most anxiously for the post. The Damánís have all left, except Mohammed and Hámed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire’s answer. I gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats: they were highly pleased, and so was the Sheïkh. At three P.M. the thermometer under the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very bad spirits, and went early to rest: hope to get a little sleep.

Thursday, July 14.—Therm. 84°. To-day all are done up and out of temper, with the exception of Abú. The heat is excessive; we are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze, and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early, oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat, have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the post; it has not arrived to-day; if it does not come to-morrow, I shall suspect something has gone wrong.

Friday, July 15.—Therm. 84°. _Dies non_. Out of health, spirits and temper. No post.

Saturday, July 16.—Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly; kept my bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is owing to the villain Majíbí.

Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market, who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot go to the Leïlá myself, but have been promised something as near to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool; contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater than I had ever felt. At two P.M. the thermometer in the sun was at 141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past three P.M. and did not sink below 138° till half-past five P.M. I was obliged to cover the stirrups and _kummiyahs_,[115] and all metal articles, with pieces of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W., but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it; there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nine P.M. the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as I have often witnessed here after great heat. At ten P.M. the heat returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.

Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven, from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to 115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun; and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece of stick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—

+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Hanging. | Standing. | Lying. | S[116]|
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| At One | 119° | 126° | 143° | |
| Two | 119 | 124 | 139 | 109° |
| Three | 121 | 131 | 139 | 110 |
| Five | 120 | 121 | 126 | 107 |
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+

At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound, at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind; that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At five P.M. I received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure, as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner. It is now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.

Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north, in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on, but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.

Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at three P.M. Went out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are preparing to start to-morrow.

Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to 112°; at three P.M. it was taken away to be used as hot water; this happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.

Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached within 15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill, and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is now preparing for Suweïrah.

Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly; and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also, and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.

Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces, called here ................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick, and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore subject for the Sheïkh,[117] who has had a quarrel with his women, and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.

Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.

Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these sudden changes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.

Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had no appetite.

Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence of the war still raging.

Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much better, thank God.

Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from one to three P.M. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to 112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service, being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.

Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.

Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post, which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.

Tuesday, Aug. 2.—Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house.