Chapter VIII: Part 8

“Sunday, P.M.—I have told the Sheïkh, that as the 15th October is now past, my orders were to wait no longer; and that as the Taghakánths had not made their appearance, I expected he would either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps for proceeding to Tumbuktú. I had just laid down, after having read the prayers, and while Abú was at the market, when I heard some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheïkh, Abíb, and Hámed. The first was foaming with rage; the second blushing up to his turban; while Hámed was sinking to the ground, like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it was too much for me: being, however, an old soldier in argument, and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found that some reports from Suweïrah had reached this place, accusing the Sheïkh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half the money of the Taghakánths for himself; and that the scandal had even extended to Fez. The Sheïkh asked, in a threatening manner, if Hámed had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had I not done so, the Sheïkh, I am certain, would have killed the lad on the spot. The Sheïkh then broke out in no measured terms against all of us; and though he confessed I had good reason to complain, he swore he had not taken a single morznum for himself; and that he would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly, that all he had of mine was a gun, a caftan, and three suílhams; and he would give them back, and I might make out my bill for the other things, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Abú returned, and I requested him to tell the Sheïkh, that I was not a merchant, and knew nothing about bills; that if he found any difficulty in fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one; he had only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to Hámed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me; that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hámed, and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents; bring his father and people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by Abíb, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Sheïkh’s character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you, that he has taken the Taghakánths’ money, and was now unwilling to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the Sheïkh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and left us, saying that, if the Taghakánths did not come in ten or fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadír. As soon as he was gone, I told Abíb that, from the size of the parcels given me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hámed Mulid, I did believe they had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the second half to me and not to the Sheïkh, and I would pay it over to the Taghakánths, or to him, if they stated they had received the whole sum. At this moment the Sheïkh returned, and muttered something about the Taghakánths owing him money, and that if he had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is probably what led Hámed to believe and say that the Sheïkh had paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hámed was now left alone with us. He said the Sheïkh would murder him, if he knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to get his horse; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abíb says, he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen days. Sídí Alí Ben Ilft told Abú in the market to-day, that if we get away in less than a month, he would give me leave to cut off his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sídí Alí has been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that his going is connected with my movements. I am sorry I can give you no certain news about the Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am making Abú collect whatever information he can pick up. News has just been brought that the Taghakánths are moving their tents, as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the káfilah as soon as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simúm, with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I have a low ague; but feel too much pain in the chest when I cough to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves I have reason to be glad of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very indifferent and dear; I hope I shall now get the bread.”

The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wád Nún, relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by Mr. Willshire, and which have been already printed in the Journal of the Geographical Society. It is dated

“Saturday, Nov. 5, 1836.

“My pen almost refuses to write Wád Nún. Your kind letter reached me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am happy to say my health is improving fast; but I cannot say much about my confidence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on Monday; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with which Abú starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if I had sent him on; Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk, and about a half-dozen horsemen, and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the district of Wád Nún; and to that place is a three days’ journey for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents. It has been positively stated to the Sheïkh, that we are to stop only the night at the tents; but this is false: I have become so used to the language of the Taghakánths, that I understand more than they think; and I heard that we should be there two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in the shortest time possible. Berúk says thirty days; my conductor, however, adds five or six; to this, he says, that we shall go as a post, and form a party of only five, including Abú and myself.

“Mohammed El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkáls for a camel, when the usual hire for a káfilah was only from ten to twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert, they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab, who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zeïn’s people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are still waiting here, and Zeïn has started this morning for Akka, to know the reason. I have at last got the account of the things I have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay the amount to Abíb. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which will be added the price of a thick haïk, if one can be procured.

“Night.—Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to him what I have written to you, and added, that all will now look to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great Marabout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters state, that I am an Englishman; that the English have been always the friends of the Mussulman; that they are all their support; for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are consumed in this country.

“Berúk is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his territory, that he has ordered Hájí Abíb to write to every body who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his own hand; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his responsibility, all may yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed El Abd, by telling him of our power to stop the trade, and to make him personally responsible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktú.

“Midnight.—My party remained here very late; I feel that after the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian appearance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to do without an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents, if possible; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly: as much as eleven mithkáls have been refused to carry a letter; but I suppose that for his own sake, the Sheïkh will arrange this. Abú is quite well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk over the difficulties we have conquered. I do not wish to boast too much; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet: but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many and great dangers, and on this I firmly rely.”

At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly _en route_ for the goal of his travels—Tumbuktú. But he had scarcely entered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His last letter is the following, dated

“Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1836.

“This is the fourth day since my arrival here, and as yet I am uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all the town have gone out in the expectation of an attack, I take the opportunity of writing up my journal. We did not actually start on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and we began by moving our things on that day. I had long predicted that there would be no rain, till I was allowed to depart; a prediction that turned out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of the baggage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was, therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse party, and for Abú to follow at break of day with the camels and baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were completed. We all started about seven A.M., but took different routes out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk and Hájí Abíb to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me, and I was then committed to the care of the Sheïkh Mohammed El Abd, and Hámed Mulid. The superior conduct and character of these persons as compared with that of Berúk, his son and escort, was greatly in favour of the Taghakánths. But now let me give you a little pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the attention and assurances of the Sheïkh and Hájí Abíb. The former in giving me into the hands of the Taghakánths, said, ‘He placed me in their hands as his own flesh and blood; if any thing happened to me, it would happen to him; I had done much for them. He counted upon making a name through me. I had waited long; and that now there was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey’s end, and that Mohammed El Abd was to return post haste with a letter, informing them of my safe arrival.’ I heard from his conversation here last night, that if he gets back to Wád Nún in three months, Berúk is to give him one hundred mithkáls of gold. Hájí Abíb wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found that Abú had packed up my Suilham; but as it was said that I must have one, although I had three _Haìks_, Hájí Abíb took off his own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do.

“I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which were two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back, and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed in my hand, and _haíked_ up to the mouth. We were off at eight A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party, including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping, firing and galloping, to frighten the _Haràmis_, the road being very dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired, which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops; and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk, and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad, as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels, they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá, and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined to start on Thursday night. The journey will be accomplished in a very short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily, not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say, there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their word; God grant that he may.

“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.

“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man, who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any thing, is at another a thief and _haràmi_.”

“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.

“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had, demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing: that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe, excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.

“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five, including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far exceeded my expectations.”

In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear, but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October 7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before this reaches you,” he says, “I shall be wending my way over Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter, think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”

The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an English passport, as he intended to travel _à l’Anglaise_, for the French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor, to travel _en Prince_ with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity, will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll— No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind me of the old proverb—‘_Tel Padron, tel Secretoire_.’ I will, however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write _hard_ scratches. I know it—I have only _steel_ pens.” So too when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for the assertion.”

Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha, he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder than any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some, slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.

Pol me occidistis, amici,

Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas

Et demptus per vim menti gratissimus error.”

In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children, and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes; the wool from them gives him from four to six _haicks_ and a carpet; his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”

_Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal._[126]

The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, _i.e._ dissenters. They refuse to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur, and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.

The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there are many.

In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, _i.e._ swift dromedaries, are bred.

In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, _i.e._ writers.

In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use.

In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves; but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.

In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of whom ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors, and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other, but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’ journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.

The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed or omitted.

The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin, water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back, and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to prevent the earth from touching it.

Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water is plentiful.”

The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah, the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.

The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm, is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.

Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in its movements. I saw one June 8th.

The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called the serpent’s enemy.

One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed between the bull and mare.

The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are diseases not known at Wád Nún.

The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.

There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey, the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a large dray-horse, red with white stripes and two horns turning back, called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do, out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species, but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers; but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna, are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are, however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes, called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites will take the meat out of the people’s hands.

_The direction of the Letter to Hámed Libbú._

Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú, renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort him. _Amen_.

* * * * *

[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding H.M.S. _Scorpion_, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather, and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here, as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]

“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 11th November 1837.

“I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating to the lower part of Sús, in the empire of Marocco; especially with regard to the rivers Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, or Asaka, Wad Mesah, &c.; as your visit to Wad Nún, in order to communicate with Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of them, I take the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions, which may be found useful in collecting geographical information:

“I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett’s recent survey of that coast, and an extract from Mr. Davidson’s letter from Wad Nún—if you read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of what we want:

“1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantín, as the ruined town of Walidíyah is said there to exist in about 33° or 33° 15′ N. lat.—describe the situation of the towns, and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles in diameter said to exist—the opening, if any, must be very small.

“2. Four miles southward of Cape Gír, the Wád Sús falls into the sea; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream flows to the sea; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name—Is it Wád Mésah?

“3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the sea; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name.

“4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-stá, falls into the Atlantic; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name.

“5. A few miles south of Cape Nún, a large river has its outlet; what is its name?—Is it Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, Wad Asaka or Wad Akassa, or Wád el Aksá, or none of them?

“6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about twenty-five miles south of the last-mentioned?

“7. Does any river, called Wád Dar’ah, fall into the sea? according to our maps it loses itself in the interior.

“8. The town of Wad Nún will probably be found at about forty miles from the sea; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks, rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar.

“9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long. of the place, its height above the sea; describe its position, estimate its population, &c.

“10. Does it stand on the banks of a river?—if so, what is its name—where does it flow from—is it said to be dry in the summer season—and is it at other times navigable for boats?

“11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all mountain-peaks in sight from the town; and give the general direction of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it.

“12. Ascertain how many days’ journey from Wad Nún (town) to Akkah, to Sók-Assah, to Talent, and to ’Agadír; and, if possible, obtain itineraries from natives.

“13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantín southward, and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the parallel of Mogadór, there is no object in keeping close in shore, it would be better to run down at such an offing as will enable you to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast may conceal.

“14. From a little experience among the Moors, I may venture to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gunpowder, snuff or tea, but especially of the former, will obtain you all you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations, if you persuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt you. Whether their watches keep time or not, is of no importance.

“15. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings, and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer, left on board, be kept while you are up the country.

“16. It will be very advisable to take with you your Assistant-Surgeon, if he can be spared, as medical advice, and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other knowledge—besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention to the natural history of the country; or at least to collect a few plants and some geological specimens: if you can also take with you a draughtsman it will be very desirable.

“17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable; note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so good as to preserve your _original_ notes and observations, and mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogadór (or according to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff, tea, gaudily printed cotton handkerchiefs, which are valued in the order I have placed them.

“Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these suggestions, and heartily wishing you success,

“I have the honour to be, &c.

“To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. _Scorpion_.” “JOHN WASHINGTON.”

* * * * *

“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 26th October 1836.

“I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, dated Wad Nún the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear that you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers of sending you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find you at Wad Nún, I write to say that any details relating to the topography of your immediate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of the country you have lately traversed, between Mogadór and Wad Nún.

“To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, requesting you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may be relied on or not.

“1. Does a river called Wad Dar’ah pass through the town of Wad Nún, and does it flow to the sea?

“2. Do you know Wad Tegréwelt, and where is its outlet?

“3. Is Wad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad Mésah, and where is its embouchure?

“4. Is the town of Mésah on its banks, and how far from the coast?

“5. How far south of the river Sús does the river Mésah flow into the sea?

“6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet?

“7. How far is Mésah from ’Agúlú?

“8. How far is the town of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús? or from Santa Cruz?

“9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sús, named Rás-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E.S.E. of Tárúdánt, running fifty miles to the S.W. circling round Mount Elálah, then flowing north fifty miles to join the river Sús, can you ascertain if this is correct?

“10. How far is Tedsí from Tárúdánt?

“11. Riley mentions Wád-e-Stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz, does it exist, and where?

“12. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the river Assah or Mésah, and if so, how far from Mésah or from each other?

“13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is it the river Reguela of Arlett’s chart?

“14. Is the river Nún also called the river Akása?

“15. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward, of Cape Nún, of any extent and where is its source? Is any town situated on it?

“16. Is there any large town between Istúkah and Nún?

“17. Can you give a tolerable estimate of the population of any of the places above-mentioned?

“19. You state Adrar to be fifty miles south of the position assigned in our maps. Is not Adrar the name of a range of mountains, not of a town?

“Pray excuse these detailed questions, but seeing the confusion in our maps, and knowing your zeal in the cause of geography, I venture to trouble you with them; let me recommend you, if possible to send duplicates of your information at every opportunity, for while travelling, in a wild and uncivilized country especially, it is difficult to ensure the safety of your papers.

“Mr. Renouard is well, and thanks Abú Bekr for his remembrances: he desires his kind regards to you and to him.

“Accept, dear Sir, our best and warmest wishes for your success; yet let me entreat you not to endanger unnecessarily your life even with the hope of accomplishing your journey to Tumbúktú; for however desirable it may be to reach that place, it is not worth risking life to obtain it.

“I am, very faithfully yours,

“(Signed) JOHN WASHINGTON.

“John Davidson, Esq., Wad Nún.”

* * * * *

[The following letter was addressed to Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire at Mogadór, but forwarded by that gentleman to Mr. Davidson, who endorsed upon it the annexed answers to the questions contained in it.]

“United Service Club, Charles Street, St. James’s,
“DEAR SIR: London, 1st March 1836.

“From your kindness and civility towards my friend, Lieut. Arlett, who visited Mogadór, in command of H.M.S. _Etna_, and your readiness to give him all the information in your power, I feel no hesitation, although an entire stranger, in writing to you, to beg more information relating to the southern part of the empire of Marocco; as, in consequence of Arlett’s late survey having cut off a large slice from our maps between Santa Cruz and Cape Nún, several towns, such as Istúkah, Nún, &c. must be wrongly placed; if you can supply any notes on the subject, I shall feel much obliged to you, and shall gladly make use of them to correct our maps.

“I may mention that I feel the more interested in this country, having accompanied Mr. Drummond Hay in his visit to the city of Marocco, in 1830, and thus having had the opportunity of correcting the map of the more northern parts of the empire.

“I have the pleasure to enclose for your acceptance, the best map hitherto published of Marocco, that of Count Grăberg af Hemsö, and to beg you will point out all the errors that you may be enabled to detect. In order to save you some trouble, I have drawn up a few questions, begging you, when you do not give the answer from personal knowledge, to state on what authority it is given, and whether you think it may be relied on.

“1. How far south of the river Sús does the river of Mésah flow into the sea; and is it known by that name to the natives, or by what?

“2. How far from its mouth is the town of Mésah situated?

“3. Is it a place of any importance now, and what may be its population?

“4. Does a river Assah exist? if so, where is its outlet? or are Assah and Mésah the same river? is either known by the name of Tesset?

“5. How far is the town of Mésah from ’Agulú?

“6. How far is the city of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús, or from Santa Cruz?

“7. What is the name of the stream just south of Mogadór? is it Wad al Ghored? and is it a stream of any size or extent? where is its source?

“8. The map represents a branch of the river Sús, named Ras-el-Wad, winding round Mount Elalah, and joining the Sús at Tárúdánt; does such a river exist, and is this any thing like its course?

“9. How far is Tedsi from Tárúdánt?

“10. Riley mentions Wad-e-stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz; is it rightly named, and where is its outlet?

“11. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the Assah or Mésah; and if so, how far from Mésah, or from each other?

“12. Does a place called Gueder, or Port Hillsborough, exist? or is it the Wad Reguela of Arlett’s Chart?

“13. Does a town called Wad Nún exist? or is it the name of a river, or of the country?

“14. How far is the town of Nún from the mouth of the river Nún, or from Cape Nún? and is it situated on the river Nún?

“15. Has the river Nún any other name? either Akassa or Wad-el-aksa?

“16. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward of Cape Nún, of any extent, and where is its source? is any town situated on it?

“17. Is there any town between Istúkah and Nún? how far is Ufaran from Talent?

“18. Can you give a tolerable guess at the population of any of the towns mentioned? and especially of Mogadór, Santa Cruz, &c., and the number of Jews they contain?

“Any other geographical information, towards correcting our maps will be thankfully received. May I beg you to take as early an opportunity as you conveniently can to answer these questions, and with every apology for the trouble I am giving

“Believe me, my dear Sir, faithfully yours,

(Signed) “JOHN WASHINGTON.”

[The following replies were written by Mr. Davidson.]

“Question 1. About fifty-four miles—it is known by the name of Wad Mesah, and also called Wholgrass [?]

“2. The town is Assah, distant about two miles—a few scattered houses on each side to within half a mile of the sea.

“3. Of no importance; famed only for having near it a Tuesday market, to which many people resort—its population may be one hundred persons.

“4. Assah is the name of the district through which the river Mesah flows: neither is known by the name of Tesset.

“5. From ’Agulú fifteen miles; large town with a population of about six hundred.

“6. Equidistant; about thirty miles from each; and visible from both.

“8. The Rás el Wad comes directly from the mountains, and passes by Tárúdánt where it takes the name of Sús.

“9. Tedsi is about twenty miles E.N.E. of Tárúdánt.

“10. I can learn nothing of Wad-e-Stá.

“11. There is no town called Stuka, it is a district; none that I can find, called Talent, there is _Tilin_; the Mesah flows through Stuka, in which district are twenty settlements, or towns if you like, some of them are large; they are known in general by the name of the Sheïkhs who inhabit them, I stopped at Sheïkh Hamed’s; Tilin was distant from this spot a day’s journey in the mountains towards the source of the river.

“12. This place is called _Isgueder_ but not known by the name of Port Hillsborough; the people called the small river here _Edaoguma_; on this stream are twenty-five mills.

“13. Wad Nún is a large district having many clusters of habitations; the town where the Sheïkh resides is of a good size; has a Millah and a good market; it stands on the river (such as it is), distant twenty-two miles from the sea.

“15. Wad el _Aisa_ comes from the mountains above _Sok Aisa_, and as it passes through the district of Wad Nún, it takes the name of _Assaka_.

“16. I have not yet been beyond two miles south of Wad Nún.

“17. There are at least twenty villages between Stuka and Wad Nún. If by Talent, _Tissert_ is meant. Oferen is distant six miles.

“18. Population of Agadir forty-seven Mohammedans; Jews thirteen heads of families, and with their children amount to sixty-two. At Fonte, which is the port, about two hundred—no Jews.”

* * * * *

EXTRACTS FROM MR. DAVIDSON’S LETTERS.

The following extracts are given with the view of explaining some allusions made in the Journal.

In a letter to Mr. G. D———d, Mr. Davidson says, “after endeavouring to enter Africa _in forma pauperis_, I tried another tack, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals, and embarking in a brig of war the ‘Jasséen,’ landed at Tangier under a salute of eleven guns. This stamped me at once as a great man; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of greatness, I find it not very pleasant here, for I have Messúd, my Jewish interpreter, and Ben Hayed, my Moorish interpreter, and I can hardly stir without both being on the alert, the one watching my mouth, the other my eye.”

Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says, “the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my kindness to Abú, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk: I am very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself, I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews, and taking snuff with the Moors.”