Chapter VII: Part 7

Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself, and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post, which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched to look after the postman.

Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post, and all in anxiety.

Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí, has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.

Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case is to be heard to-morrow.

Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire, like this paying before hand. Had a large party at breakfast; there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah, unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe: these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.

Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118] nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again.

Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí ’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a credit for the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business.

Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood

At 10 A.M. in the shade 80° in the sun 110°.
— 12 M. 82° 124°.
— 2 P.M. 82° 120°.
— 6 76° 85°.
— 10 in doors 75° out of doors 70°.

I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.

Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many Jinns[119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant, who was the father of the boy, to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.

Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for looking at it.

Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little, but made myself ill again.

Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah, which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from the desert, which nearly blinded us: at five P.M. the glare was so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons; we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster, the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch, although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh is not yet returned.

Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people, and partly by way of medicine.

Tuesday, Aug. 16.—Therm. 72°. This was rather an interesting morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley, only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted, together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers, and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly, and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here, I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah[120] taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose: but matters are hard to arrange.

Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads; none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik); some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The wind is high, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of a return of the heat. At eleven A.M. it blew a perfect hurricane. The Simúm[121] felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one P.M. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms, I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two P.M. the hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred and twenty-one degrees, and at three P.M. one hundred and twenty-six degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the Jew’s to-morrow with the Sheïkh. A great change has taken place: I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined to keep the vantage ground.

Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s, Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his kummiyah.[122] After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel, who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi, at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there were only _Sepher Kodesh_.[123] Returned home, and found a great change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive: the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.

Friday, Aug. 19.—Therm. 89°. The heat suffocating: went out a little to accustom myself to it. At two P.M. the thermometer was at 110° in the shade. This is the second summer here: it lasts for twenty or thirty days. All nature parched up. Kept to the house the greater part of the day.

Saturday, Aug. 20.—Therm. 90°. There has been a difference of twenty degrees between to-day and last Saturday, and of twenty-four degrees between the 10th and 20th of this month. I am regularly steaming. Am going to the Jew’s again: it is their Sabbath feast. Their _olla podrida_ does not agree with me very well. It is put into the oven on Friday just before sunset, and remains till it is wanted, stewing from twelve to twenty hours in a river of oil. The day was, however, a change from my imprisonment. The Rabbi read a part of Genesis. Walked to the Millah, the heat excessive; returned home, and had some pleasant talk with the Sheïkh: was right glad to get away from the smell of the Jews, and from nose-blowing, &c.

Sunday, Aug. 21.—Therm. 88°. Day fine. The hot wind has ceased. Read the prayers, and passed all day in the house with the Greek Testament.

Monday, Aug. 22.—Therm. 76°. A great fall in the glass. Felt very cold in the night; morning cloudy, with appearance of rain in the west. Mohammed Serren brought one of his sahabi[124] for me to prescribe something for him; the poor fellow was very ill, and came with lots of commissions from others; but not being able to explain himself very well, he mounted his horse, and went to some tents in the neighbourhood, and brought me a louse, telling me that the chief of the tribe, a great friend of his, had them all over his body; and that as his skin bred them, he wished to know how he was to get rid of them. He then detailed his own domestic disease. He had the prettiest woman in the tribe for his wife; but she did not like him. He therefore wanted me to give him a charm to compel her to love him. Hearing a rattling of chains below, I went out to inquire the cause of it, and asked if they were intended for an elephant; but received for answer, that they were for the poor devils who had stolen the Sheïkh’s horse: they are to be chained up for God knows how long. The Arab returned for his medicines; and when I was about to give him some directions about his diet, he said it was of no use, for they had but two kinds of food, milk and ’eïsh (barley-bread). There has been a great commotion amongst the Jews. Poor Eïsh Ben Músa came crying to me, having heard that the Sheïkh had made me promise to go and eat at Suleïmán’s, who is a great rascal, and whom I dislike. The beast came, and wanted to explain away his rascality. I find I cannot go there, but fighting follows.

Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jews are boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it turned cold.

Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone out to punish some Harámís[125] in that direction. We went out, but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the parties who started after P.M. are now returning. Weather much cooler.

Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.

Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors, who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his father arrives, we are to start.

Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.

Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night, that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers, and kept my room all the day.

Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels, started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again put off our excursion. Cold to-night.

Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.

Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W., and rode till four P.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad, which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at seven P.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked up, and was near falling twice from his horse. After the tent was pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver, and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought, and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.

Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal to rain. Up at five A.M. to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start till one P.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W., crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At six P.M. we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night, when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller, who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham, and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. He _improvised_ with great fluency.

Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during the night. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At seven A.M. we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people, however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps, &c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy and cold towards the evening. We started at six P.M., and rode an hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me, although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch; while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.

Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent was 70° at eight A.M. We did not get off till nine A.M. Impossible to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing, and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to travel without food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.

Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot day. Up at five A.M. but did not start till ten, as people were constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great, and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea, where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish; the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing the boar. The tents were wretched.

Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard; then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes, which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away, and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.

_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._

THE RIVER DRAHA.

_48 Miles W.S.W. of Wadnoon._]

Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself; for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west, crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.

Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas; the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings, the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.

Thursday, Sept. 8.—Therm. 62°. Off at half-past six. Rode very fast till half-past one, when we halted at the Sheïkh’s garden. We had crossed the Assaka, and came to the Syod, which is here only a ditch. We then lighted a fire, and got some good tea made with fresh water; there was plenty of figs to give a relish to the remainder of the musty bread. I had now travelled hard for ten days, and had eaten nothing but a small piece of fish, dry bread and camel’s milk. I perfectly astonished these people, ............... but was much benefitted and pleased by the trip. Got home at six P.M. when I had coffee and a wash.

Here ends Mr. Davidson’s Journal, from which the notes have been extracted; and the three following letters, addressed to Mr. Willshire, will tell all that his friends have to communicate up to the period of his lamented decease.

“Wad Nún, October 7th 1836.

“Being still in this horrible place, and with little chance of getting away, I should not have written this to-day, had I not been anxious to take advantage of any opportunity of giving you a piece of information which will astonish you. The Tagakánths, notwithstanding all that the Sheïkh ’Abíb and Hámed promised, have not arrived here. Another express has been sent to them; but even after their arrival there is to be a stop: should this prove to be the case, I will give up the project, content to lose all the money I have paid. In twelve days from this, I shall have completed six calendar months here, and during a great part of the time I have been treated worse than a dog. I have told Hámed, and as soon as I can get the Sheïkh and ’Abíb together, I shall tell them likewise, that if I do not start by to-morrow week, I shall insist upon their returning the money they have had; at all events, that Hájí ’Abíb must give me the five hundred dollars he brought, and the camels which have been purchased with my funds; and I must make up my mind to be robbed of the rest. This I have often threatened to do; but now I will act up to my resolves, let what will happen. Zain came yesterday and told me he would wait no longer; that he had engaged some sixty of the Ben Alí tribe, who take twenty-seven men mounted on horses as a flying guard, and who are determined to fight their way through, if necessary; he says he can send me on with the greatest confidence; that unless he was certain of accomplishing the object, he would not risk his brother’s property; but that I must go at once. I shewed him every thing packed up, ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that I was only waiting for some bread that I expected. He asked me how I was situated? I told him of every thing, and that one hundred and ten dollars, including the present premium on the pesettas, had been paid to the Sheïkh for the Tagakánths. He lifted up his hands and said, it ought not to have been more than half that sum. Besides I have brought him, said I, a present amounting to one hundred and eighty dollars, and that he has asked for guns, which will cost him from six to seven hundred dollars more. Moreover, I have promised, if I am satisfied with his conduct, to send him pistols, powder, &c.; that I had left the money in your hands. He got up, and said, it was too bad; but as I had paid the money, it was no use to say anything more; it was gone without the chance of recovery. He thinks, and so do I, that the Sheïkh and his party will give themselves no further trouble about the matter. Zain and his friends are the people, who, as I told you some time since, offered to carry me to Tumbuktú for five hundred dollars, and not to receive any money until they had delivered me there in safety. The third and principal matter I have to communicate is, that Sídí Alí Ben Ilft is gone to join the caravan going to Tumbuktú; he came here last night to tell me so. No sooner, however, was it known in the Sheïkh’s room that he was there, than they sent Hájí ’Abíb to bring him to them. At first he refused to go; but afterwards he went, and then came back and staid with me till late. He says that he will go through all Súdan with me, and even back to England, if I wish it. He begged me to visit him this morning, and I have just left him. He wants me not to hurry the káfilah; and from what I could collect from his conversation with Hámed, he is disposed to give a large sum to delay the káfilah one month longer, and a good sum to delay it twenty days. This he says, is to give him time to arrange his affairs, but I know too well it is to get further instructions from Fez. I have stated decidedly that I will not wait twenty days. This Sídí Alí would be of great use as a protector, but I want none. My mind is made up, I am sorry to say, to leave my bones in Súdán, and it is as firmly made up to make a severe example before I fall. I am determined, on the least treachery I see here or on the road, to fire first, and my pistols never miss. I feel that I am in bad hands here. Close and Moor-like as Sídí Alí is, I wormed out of him that there was some fear lest I should divert a most lucrative trade into another channel. Sídí Alí will not believe that I have paid the sum I stated; so trifling is the hire of camels to Tumbuktú, that they leave it to chance, and even with the salt they are glad to obtain ten mithkáls, not of gold; but merely the ten ............ a camel-load for the salt, including cost and carriage; as it is the back carriage that pays. All here are in great commotion, since they have learnt about Sídí Alí, and they know not what to do. I am sorry for Hájí ’Abíb, who is really concerned about this bad treatment. He complains sadly of the food; and his servant, who has been four times to Tumbuktú, says the dogs there live better than the Sheïkh here. He cannot eat the food, and means to cook for himself. He is preparing a little meat for me, but I cannot buy a pot to put it into. I stated in my last that I was not going to put on any disguise. I have been so accustomed to the dirt and filth in which I have been living for some time past, that it has become quite natural to me. You, perhaps, know more about Khovut than any other person, and when I tell you I have been living in Khotu, sleeping on it for nearly three months, you can form a pretty good idea of my disguise. I never expect to become white again. My beard is very long, my hair is cut close to the head, leaving one long tuft over the left ear, my bare legs and arms are covered with the bites of vermin; my cheek bones are very prominent, and teeth very sharp from having little or nothing to do.

“I have told you a great deal about Sheïkh Berúk, but the finishing stroke was put to it this morning. I yesterday purchased two sheep, to prepare a little meat to serve me either to go or return. After cutting what meat I could off the bones, and putting this aside, one of the slaves was sent from the house to bring them away, there being enough for the dinner, and the small pieces were of no use to me. I asked the girl why she was taking them away? She replied, ‘the Sheïkh had sent her for them.’ This conduct was strongly contrasted with that of Sídí Alí, who sent for Abú, and told him that he had heard I was buying meat, but he would not allow it; there were plenty of people to buy and cook meat for me, if necessary; and he would not have it said, that a stranger was buying his food while he was in their country.

“I am daily at the tents of the Tagakánths, and the ladies, not one, but several, have openly asked me to pass the night with them; an arrangement to which their husbands make not the least objection. The Sheïkh alone, who is no great favourite, is jealous of the little attention shewn to others. Hájí ’Abíb says, he does not know how to manage these people. He is too close-fisted for them.

“Hámed has just been here (Saturday P.M.). I asked him to sit down; he said he was ashamed, and would not sit in my room, till his father came or sent a letter, bidding him to bring me on.

“I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultán. My friend, G. D———d, tells me that two such chests were never sent from any house: besides the medicines, ............ of silver, glass and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye, and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other powders for Sídí Ben Alí. All these I know have been sent, and I have paid for them: their non-arrival is owing probably to the want of proper directions to the Káïd of Tangier to forward them on: the matter should be really looked into for the national credit.

“Sunday.—Some observations have been made about my bones, and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the Sheïkh’s party in the garden, to which they all thought I should go; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I have got no bread as yet.

“Wednesday Evening.—Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached this place yesterday evening: the messenger wanted to return this day; but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday I have been upon my carpet alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wád Nún: my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters and gargling, and fearing suffocation, I was about to cut a hole in my throat to admit of breathing; but Hájí ’Abíb, the Sheïkh, the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country; and for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of this secretion has quite astonished me: there has been a continued discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above a quart. Hámed has been particularly attentive, and so have all; and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall bleed myself till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do, perhaps, wrong in writing, but I know your kindness and good feeling would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through any other channel.

“I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are to go: Hámed says, it is not the Sheïkh’s fault; that the times are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after; and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be off to-morrow. I have sent Abú to see about some cakes from the Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered.

“I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Sheïkh, and telling him that it will be time enough to think of commercial intercourse, as soon as he should have performed his engagements with me, and for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins to feel alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write now what he has disclosed; but I shall be at him again before the messenger departs.

“Friday night.—I am much better, although I do not consider myself quite out of danger. I was obliged to make four incisions in the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this place; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheïkh and his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufferings. Abú is quite useless: his fear makes him totally helpless; but this only serves to rouse me. Hájí Abíb’s servant, Fahir, has certainly saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave his master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first made the offer for me to take him: but I believe the wretches here do not wish the boy to go back to Súdán, as he knows too many of their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits; all my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in whose career and my own are many singular coincidences, started in nearly the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abyssinia of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded; and so, perhaps, may I; but my hopes are very faint.

“Saturday, four P.M.—I have this day spoken again to the Sheïkh; but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abíb to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that I cannot get through Súdán before the rainy season commences, and it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving them out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheïkh and Majíbí have played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for you or me: the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive that you have a great idea of his influence; but a week’s residence here would convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants, not a soul would go out of the way to serve him; he is a mean, low, avaricious, and crafty savage; an arrant coward, and one who grudges even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there is some danger in his taking offence: you need not fear on that head, as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again.