Chapter V: Part 5

Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds that I am too _canine_ for him to be in the same apartment, and thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred, with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah, where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20_s._ to 30_s._; heifers, 15_s._; a sheep, 2_s._ to 4_s._; fowls vary: I paid ½_d._ each; bread, ¼_d._ per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas; barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars; a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.

Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkh is still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the trade through Mogadór.

Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent, as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.

Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.

Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day, did not go out.

Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible to give an answer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to the _entré_, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk, and retired to rest.

Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has got off under[96] .........[97] order. The river Assaka is to the south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which occur _quotidie_ (daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.

Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing, &c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.

Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún; in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání; in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the ninth, el jemál: the female is called nákah: it has been known to work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords, saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four, A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98] The Jewish gentleman was offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this, I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food; but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening, which kept me up till midnight.

Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty: the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters, made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.

All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills, distant from each other about one thousand yards. By the last is meant the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.

Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty; and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself, as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery, are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.

Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one[99] before I go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them; their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her present size. Several wish to know how they are to become mothers: many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two, who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say, that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.

Friday, May 13.—Therm. 78°. Went to breakfast with the pretty Jewess; her husband is a man of some information. We had too much to eat: afterwards walked about two miles up the bed of the river, which, when full, must contain a large body of water. Visited the Arab tents; on returning, saw some very fine women, but they were beastly dirty. Morality is here at a very low ebb; the husband prostitutes his wife, and the father his child; and this is considered no disgrace, if it is done for a valuable consideration, and not for love. Witnessed a very disgusting scene with the Sheïkh; he has three wives all living, but he still likes his slaves: his fourth wife died lately; she was an Arab of great beauty, for whom he gave two hundred camels, twelve slaves, and a great quantity of produce. His eldest son is a chip of the old block, and is running after every woman he takes a fancy to, the pretty Jewess excepted, whose person is considered sacred. Three Moors have destroyed themselves for her in a fit of love, and all come to see her. As she is a patient, I can visit her daily. I am becoming very impatient, and the people tell me I have a quick temper: but the fact is, time is no object to the people here; their care is merely how to waste it; as soon as one meal is finished, they want to sleep till the time for the next arrives. It is quite dreadful to see the sad state to which human nature is degraded in this place. The small-pox has broken out with great violence, and I have to run the gauntlet without the least chance of escaping from it. A slave was brought in, charged with attempting to run away; it appears to have been a little love affair: he was punished by having a fifty-six pound-weight fastened to his leg.

Saturday, May 14.—Therm. 74°. The poor creature is still chained, and has not a drop of water, although it is now mid-day. The Sheïkh should have clean hands before he thus punished others. Went out again to the bed of the river, and made the round of the Khiesin: met many beautiful women, if they were only clean. Their husbands are all gone to Súdán; had to prescribe for some fifty of them; they wanted me to make their faces of the same colour as my legs and arms. My watch, rings, &c. were a great object of curiosity with them: had a little difficulty in making some of them shew their tongues, which they consider a mark of impudence; they all like to be closely examined; their figures are perfectly beautiful; most of them were at work. I had prayers and thanks in abundance. One very merry lass had on her neck a curious collection: it embraced a little bag of spices and scents; the nail of a horse-shoe; a leather charm, called horse; a broken shell; a large glass bead; another horse; a shell again (habha); a small habha, consisting of a circular piece of agate, and a large horse at the centre, from which was suspended the horn of a young ram; and the same things were repeated, forming the circle. Some of the women work beautiful háïks, blankets, and carpets. In the large tents are two beds raised on feet, with a cradle, the canopy for the bride. There are two tents in each inclosure of thorns or prickly pears. Visited the Millah, and then home.

Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn, who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100] It appears that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié[101] several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The government is now Fulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was; but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day, as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah, which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say, of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it, Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west, flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water, the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh, giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy here was universal, when they heard that the French had been beaten; for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought for three or four.

Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys, and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however, of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox: how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this, in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall then know how long I am to stay here.

Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy, and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.

Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; to Tínzert one day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates, pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.

Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night, notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind, but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms, passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others, and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family, four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin, and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am now so changed in appearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed, to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afresh _In-shá-llah_! I have written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out for the káfilah. At two P.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold, cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme: they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán, but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.

Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with immense loss: some of the female captives have been brought to the Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed, and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women, one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however, who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers, after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization, hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track, by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.

Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.

Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the prayers, and kept the house till three P.M. Another arrival from Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels, and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102] all were in good condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I am half-famished.

Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.

Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.

Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.

Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on the _kummiyah_.[103] So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.

The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.

Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.

Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.

Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.

Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin, and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.

Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night.

Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards noon. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer in the sun stood at 120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better, although there is but little chance of my proceeding, as the people of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát: but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—

“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis

Præstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”

This is nearly my case.

Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this, there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come here. No account of the káfilah.

Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°. _Dies non_. I was hardly in bed, when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed, when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee, too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw, and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.

Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at two P.M. when it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had; for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near so great a degree of heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad: it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident, and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.

Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased excessively. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer was 95° under the corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be blockaded.

Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some definite arrangement.

Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if I can get some sleep, despite the great noise. These people know nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in one light and one dark, as they call the day.

Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.

Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází, and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels, mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the first wants something to make every one love her; the second that her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.

Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks, except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some good news from Senegal.

Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we had the moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.

Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food, when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.