Chapter IV: Part 4

Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get rid of him entirely.

Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.

Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.

Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home, and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the _bocca larga_. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind: it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get off.

Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú; Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah; all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.

Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with my patients, all of whom are doing well.

Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up; busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún: employed in preparations for starting.

Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from the _M’hor_, which is a kind of antelope, and are called _selsí_ in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application: it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.

Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.

Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.

Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.

Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients; glad to get off.

Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate

نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين

nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people; the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.

Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.

Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.

Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the _euphorbium_, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.

Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.

Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive, the year will be an abundant one, and _vice versa_. Walked out to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír, Mashallah!

Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself, although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.

Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me, six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the people of Agadír.

Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade, out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached 133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86] I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú. At nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early.

Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.

Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force, and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend, with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a _dies non_.

Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10 within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought no news.

Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.

Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.

Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A _dies non_.

Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news: my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were very bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on or not.

Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived; all is right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour, dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready to start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes to-day: it has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.

Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale from the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The mountains can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.

Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind, accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.

Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E. Disappointed again, as Hájí Majíibí[89] will not start for some days. Our horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may be fresh for the start (‘_Inshállah_’) on Saturday next.

Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N. with weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides, I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave Mogadór to-day.

Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A _dies non_. Felt very poorly: had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.

Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are rather too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came, but brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I am very uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The Hájí is thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for one moment what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here, he would hurry on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot bite, and therefore I had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round to the E. The thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went to my carpet rather sulky.

Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my present to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any real grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one of the severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the very fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from the N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however, do me some good. The people of his tribe offered to bring him here, but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy: no appetite, and out of spirits.

Saturday, April 16.—Therm. 72°. Day beautiful; the gale passed off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago, which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower; I was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road; he was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to hold him on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí Ibráhím, was seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to the governor’s, and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him obtain some rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in a sad state, nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened, as they call it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out: he had been fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its powers. I gave him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence, and made him a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it, than he put the bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling the crowd, that had now collected to see the holy man, that he had got at last what his stomach was craving for. I promised to make him a breakfast on the morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my treatment of him, I got no little credit; for which I can obtain some help from him in return. Am heartily sick of this place; although it has lost all its commerce, it has still a considerable revenue; it may be considered a frontier town, and is capable of being well defended; it receives one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass through it, two ounces for each camel, half a peseta for each mule, and two blanquillas for each donkey; and as it is in the great road to Sús and Súdán, these imposts produce a large income.

Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient, when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday, which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors: poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules: took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow.

Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party; in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed, in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí (Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream, although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man: he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose: the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.

Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah, a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of ’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him, and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight: afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping.

Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring; they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh ’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where through Sús. I bought him for [Blank] dollars. At this point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold, most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly, is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint, I was put into the garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.

Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.

Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much pleased with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me, he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.

Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples: saw likewise several _heïries_, both of dromedaries and horses. As the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day, but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to shorten the time.

Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased, so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away, and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.

Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one: went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They will not give me a moment’s rest.

Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire, to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties; that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.

_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._

_Style of Buildings of Wadnoon._]

Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself, and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout, who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race; they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark; they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal; they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal, the black mountain; Sók Assa is distant only one day’s journey; Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known, twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah, they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen, &c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.

Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants, or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascally by Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain, to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here, because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for at least another month, and must bear it.

Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs, and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s[94] communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95] and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole distance be performed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum, almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.