Chapter V: (central Sudan.) (1)

* * * * *

31.—KHARTOUM TO WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, AND KARKOJ, UP LEFT
BANK OF BLUE NILE.

COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY MAJOR DE ROUGEMONT AND CAPTAIN
H. F. S. AMERY.

_Corrected up to_ 1904.

Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |The road passes over an open plain
(Palace) | | |after leaving the old line of
| | |fortifications (gate 1 mile from
| | |palace), passing Buri District,
| | |comprising 3 villages, to the
| | |left; then through Gereif
| | |district; 7 villages, population
| | |about 1,000; opposite third
| | |village the road is ½ mile from
| | |river; road runs over flat open
| | |plain; cultivation—dura, cotton,
| | |dukhn, and vegetables in small
| | |quantities round each village. A
| | |track also leads straight to the
| | |Sabil Rest house, by following
Um Dom Island | — | — |which about 1 mile is saved.
| | |
_Meshra El | 7½ | 7½ |Not inhabited.
Hagar or | | |
Hageirat_ | | |
| | |
| | |Road passes in straight line from
| | |Khartoum to Meshra El Hagar or
| | |Hageirat; at this point it meets
| | |the river; excellent watering
| | |place only, no village. The
| | |village of Um Dom (R.) is exactly
| | |opposite Meshra El Hagar.
| | |
_Soba_ | 4 | 11½ |A small village of tukls on the R.
| | |bank. Fourteen miles from Khartoum
| | |there is good watering place, no
| | |grazing.
| | |
_El Sabil_ | 6 | 17½ |Rest house. No village.
| | |
_El Bageir_ | 1½ | 19 |On river bank, 1½ miles from road,
| | |population 200. Through Sabil Kasm
| | |El Sid District; signs of ruined
| | |village on side of road, from
| | |which Eilafun can be seen, bearing
| | |55°.
| | |
_Goz Shereig_ | — | — |On R. bank.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 7 | 26 |Population 1,000; cultivation
| | |round villages (3). Track passes
| | |over barren treeless plain to
| | |
_Masudia_ | 5½ | 31½ |Village on River, population 500;
| | |cultivation between village and
| | |river.
| | |
_Nuba_ | 2¼ | 33¾ |A large village, mud houses,
| | |population 1,000; good
| | |cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south
| | |of Nuba.
| | |
_El Masid_ | 5 | 38¾ |Rest house. Road still through
| | |open plain. No cultivation between
| | |Nuba and Masid, nor at latter.
| | |Inhabitants cultivate opposite
| | |bank. Large village with mosque.
| | |
_Alti_ | 1 | 39¾ |A straggling village ¾ mile long,
| | |population 1,500; bank of river
| | |cultivated.
| | |
_Um Magad_ | 3 | 42¾ |Village ½ mile long, population
| | |300.
| | |
_El Tikeina_ | 1¾ | 44½ |Population 200. Encamped in open
| | |plain ½ mile south of village;
| | |good watering place; no grazing.
| | |
_Bishagra El | 2 | 46½ |Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra
Gharbi_ | | |El Sharki on opposite bank.
| | |
_Fadl El | 1 | 47½ |A small village on river bank,
Fogur_ | | |population 150.
| | |
_El Takela_ | 2¼ | 49¾ |Straggling village, population
| | |800, ½ mile from road on bank of
| | |river. Traces of rain cultivation.
| | |Another village on right of road,
| | |1 mile further south, also called
| | |El Takela.
| | |
_Wad El | 2¾ | 52½ |A large village, with large
Turabi_ | | |mosque, ½ mile from river. There
| | |is a small village on river bank
| | |under trees (mimosa). Rain-
| | |cultivated dura commences on right
| | |of road. Plenty of cultivation on
| | |river bank.
| | |
_Kasembar_ | 2½ | 55 |A small village of Kamlin
| | |district, ¼ mile from road,
| | |population 200. The road now
| | |enters the Kamlin district, which
| | |stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.
| | |
_El Heleila_ | 1 | 56 |A small village of Kamlin district
| | |1¼ mile left of road, population
| | |200.
| | |
_Kalkol_ | — | — |Same as El Heleila. A thick grove
| | |of Dom palms close to village.
| | |
_Kamlin_ | 2½ | 58½ |A large village, population 1,500,
| | |with thin grove of date palms on
| | |north side with rest house. Market
| | |place, dura obtainable. There are
| | |government farms and old ruined
| | |indigo factory. A good camping
| | |ground on south side of village.
| | |The road to Kamlin is quite
| | |suitable for wheel traffic. The
| | |inhabitants of Kamlin seem
| | |prosperous. The Gezira seems well
| | |supplied with grass. The road now
| | |passes through more cultivation;
| | |rain-cultivation dura on both
| | |sides of road. Head Quarters of
| | |Blue Nile Province (P.T.O.).
| | |
_Um Degersi_ | 6½ | 65 |Two small villages, population
| | |700, 1 mile east of road; nearly
| | |all straw tukls. Near here another
| | |small village on bank Abd El
| | |Magdi, population 200; river
| | |cultivation. One mile south on
| | |right bank of river is the large
| | |village of Helalia.
| | |
_Abu El Ashr_ | 3 | 68½ |A large village on river bank.
| | |Here commences Halawin district
| | |(includes Abu El Ashr), population
| | |600; mud houses. Road passes
| | |through open woody country.
| | |
_El Talbab_ | 3¼ | 71¾ |Two miles from river, population
| | |1,000. Mud houses. The road
| | |continues through the Halawin
| | |district, comprising some 64
| | |villages inland. Cultivation by
| | |rain.
| | |
_Um Haboba_ | 3¼ | 75 |Commonly called by the natives the
| | |Geneinat El Halawin; excellent
| | |camping ground, garden, excellent
| | |grazing, date palms, lemon trees
| | |in garden. The road now passes
| | |through somewhat thick mimosa
| | |jungle to plain covered with thorn
| | |scrub.
| | |
_Wad Abu | 3 | 78 |Rest house. A large village, ¼
Ferugha_ | | |mile from road on left, population
(Furur?) | | |800. A few dom palms and grazing
| | |(indifferent) along bank. Opposite
| | |bank well wooded, inhabitants
| | |depend on rain cultivation.
| | |
_Debeba_ | 2 | 80 |A long straggling village, 1
| | |mosque, a few sunt trees. An
| | |island called Debeba in front of
| | |village. Bearing from north end of
| | |village to Rufaa 110°, about 3
| | |miles off on right bank.
| | |
Wad El Ramil | ½ | 80½ |A small village east of road.
| | |Bearing to Rufaa 90°. Road passes
| | |through open plain.
| | |
_Hassa Hisa_ | 2 | 82½ |Two large sunt trees, one at north
or _Hassai_ | | |end, one at south end. Fair size
| | |village at the apex of the bend of
| | |the river, mostly tukls. One and a
| | |quarter miles further on are two
| | |very large acacia trees; road
| | |open. The river here makes a sharp
| | |south bend, Rufaa being about 3
| | |miles north-east from here on R.B.
| | |There is a telegraph office at
| | |Rufaa.
| | |
| | |In the bend opposite Rufaa are
| | |several villages, chief being El
| | |Amara, which is the Head Quarters
| | |of the Mamur of Mesellemia
| | |District.
| | |
_Wad El Fadui_| 5 | 87½ |Road leaves El Amara to the left
| | |and strikes the river again near
| | |Wad El Fadui.
| | |
_El Akura_ | 4 | 911 |Conspicuous palms near river’s
| | |edge. Rain cultivation all along
| | |road and inland.
| | |
_Grigrib_ | 3 | 94½ |Small Halawin village. Old
| | |Mesellemia now mostly in ruins,
| | |lies about 4 miles south-west
| | |inland from here.
| | |
_Fadasi_ | 1¾ | 96¼ |Large village. Inhabitants chiefly
| | |Rekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El
| | |Nazir Yusef. Rest house. From here
| | |track passes through dura
| | |cultivation whole way to Wad
| | |Medani.
| | |
_Fadasi El | 1¾ | 98 |Palms and good deal of bush along
Amara_ | | |river bank.
| | |
_Wad | 10 | 108 |Head Quarters of Sennar Province
Medani_[20] | | |and 1 battalion of infantry.
| | |Second largest town in the Sudan.
| | |
_Habiballa_ | 3 | 111 |Village on Blue Nile on left of
| | |road. Much cultivation hereabouts.
| | |
Um Bellal | 3 | 114 |Village on right of road. Much
| | |jungle along river bank.
| | |
_Bagadi_ | 9 | 123 |Several villages are passed and a
| | |good deal of cultivation to
| | |Bagadi, a large village with good
| | |watering place. From here the
| | |telegraph runs to Meshra El Beriab
_Meshra El | 14 | 137 |(10 miles), and thence to Meshra
Shukaba_ | | |El Shukaba (6½ miles); however,
| | |the most direct road cuts off the
| | |bend and strikes the river at
| | |Meshra Shukaba. Several villages
| | |in this neighbourhood and bush
| | |both inland and along river bank.
| | |A road from Segadi joins in here.
| | |
_El Denegila_ | 4 | 141 |Good watering place; several
| | |villages. Cultivation.
| | |
_Meshra El | 9¾ | 150¾ |Several villages and much
Dai_ | | |cultivation is passed on the river
| | |bank about half way to Meshra El
_Meshra El | 7 | 157¾ |Hegerat. Much bush about here, but
Hegerat_ | | |main road is good.
| | |
_Sennar_ | 9 | 166¾ |In ruins, but being re-built. Head
| | |Quarters of District and
| | |garrisoned by a detachment from
| | |Wad Medani.
| | |
| 2½ | 169¼ |River bends eastwards and road
| | |leaves it about 2 miles to the
_Meshra | 11 | 180¼ |east and passes through thick bush
Eridiba_ | | |to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before
| | |reaching which Sheikh Talha is
| | |passed on the right bank. Good
| | |camping ground and grazing.
| | |
| | |Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country
| | |is more open, and cultivated with
| | |dura and semsem.
| | |
| | |Abdin is a moderate-sized village
| | |on river bank 1½ miles from main
| | |road. Good watering place. No
| | |grazing near camp, but it is
| | |obtainable some 2 miles north.
| | |
| | |Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to the
| | |east.
| | |
| | |On river bank. From here there is
| | |a road following the river which
| | |makes a big bend to the east to
| | |Senga. The direct road is _viâ_
_Enediba_ | 13 | 193¼ |Enediba, and passes through much
| | |cultivation and crosses many
_Senga_ or | 11¾ | 205 |tracks to Senga, an important
_Seneij_ | | |village on the river bank. This is
| | |now the Head Quarters of the old
| | |Karkoj District. It is garrisoned
| | |by a detachment from Wad Medani.
| | |Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs live
| | |here, but the population is much
| | |mixed. From Senga roads lead to
| | |Lueisa and Abu Kashim on the
| | |Dinder.
| | |
| | |There is a P.T.O. here.
| | |
| | |A road runs east from here _viâ_
| | |Teigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali,
| | |and another to J. Moya. From J.
| | |Dali there are tracks to the White
| | |Nile at Jebelein and Goz Abu Guma.
| | |
_Senga Um | 6½ | 211½ |From here the track runs due south
Benein_ | | |to Senga Um Benein on river bank.
| | |Kenana village.
| | |
_Meshra Dar | 7½ | 219 |Thence to Meshra Dar Agil, whence
Agil_ | | |by river bank to Karkoj, a town of
| | |not much importance now owing to
_Karkoj_ | 5 | 224 |the transfer of Government
| | |offices, &c., to Senga.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

32.—KHARTOUM TO GOZ ABU GUMA AND JEBELEIN, UP RIGHT BANK OF
WHITE NILE.

COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY CAPTAINS T. CONOLLY AND W. A. BOULNOIS
(1899).

N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far
as Shawal.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |Leaving the most westerly group of
| | |palms at Khartoum, the road runs
| | |due south for a mile, leaving the
| | |village of Goz on the left, and
| | |that of Rumeila on the right.
| | |Cotton soil. River visible.
| | |
| | |In next 7 miles road runs (185
| | |Mag.), passing a string of
| | |villages on the right (W.) about 1
Assara | — | — |mile away. The name of all these
| | |seems to be Assara, till one gets
Kalakla | 5 | 6 |to the village of Kalakla, about 6
| | |miles from Khartoum, situated in a
| | |large clump of trees. Road runs on
| | |open desert sand—very good going;
| | |river invisible, about 2 miles
| | |off.
| | |
Sheikh Um | 3 | 9 |At 9 miles from Khartoum road
Meriom | | |passes a village with a high tomb
| | |in it, called Sheikh Wad Um
| | |Meriom. This lies on the river
| | |about 1½ miles from the main road.
| | |
El Kalakeil | 1 | 10 |At 10 miles road passes El
| | |Kalakeil on the E. side of it.
| | |There are some signs in this last
| | |mile of the country having been
| | |cultivated. From here the river is
| | |about 3 miles off, invisible on
| | |account of the bank of sand which
| | |forms the desert edge, and some
| | |trees on it.
| | |
| | |After this the road enters some
| | |low sand hills, with large clumps
| | |of big trees on the river side
| | |about ½ mile off.
| | |
| 3 | 13 |Three miles off this brings one
| | |into the first open scrub, which
| | |gets closer as it approaches the
| | |river—but is not thick, except in
| | |a few places on the river bank.
| | |
Geziret Haraz | 4 | 17 |At 17 miles the head of two
| | |islands at high Nile (now no
Geziret Um | — | — |longer islands), called Geziret
Arda | | |Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These
| | |islands are, I believe, some 5
| | |miles apart at high Nile, but are
| | |now practically one, owing to big
| | |alluvial flat from which they
| | |rise, being dry at this time of
| | |the year (10.3.99).
| | |
| | |At this point, and for the next 3
| | |miles on the road, there are a
| | |good number of shallow, 15 to 20
| | |feet, wells, giving good water,
| | |slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but
| | |7 were reported by natives. There
| | |are a good number of camels to be
| | |seen in this piece of country.
| | |
J. Auli | 8 | 25 |Eight miles further takes one to
| | |J. Auli, a steep rock about 100
| | |feet high, with a small under-
| | |feature on the N.W., about 50
| | |feet. There is a good meshra, or
| | |watering place. Under this
| | |mountain there is a good camping
| | |ground for a brigade.
| | |
Gar El Nabi | 3 | 28 |Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3
| | |miles Gar El Nabi is reached,
| | |which lies close to it. These 3
| | |miles are through open bush, with
| | |river visible about ½ to 1 mile
| | |off.
| | |
| 4 | 32 |For the next 4 miles the bush gets
| | |thicker and the road is crossed by
| | |small khors, and in places by
| | |cultivation zeribas. River
| | |invisible.
| | |
| | |Next 6 miles the bush gets more
| | |open again, and a line of small
| | |sand hills is seen along the river
| | |edge hiding it. Horses can be
| | |watered anywhere in this 6 miles.
| | |In the last half of this distance
| | |the trees cease on the east side
| | |of the road and 2 large khors
| | |cross it.
| | |
Opposite J. | 6 | 38 |At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite
Barima or | | |on the other bank of the river.
Breima | | |For about 2 miles before reaching
| | |this point, and for 2½ miles after
| | |it, the road runs through sand
| | |hills, the river being visible
| | |about ½ mile off.
| | |
| | |At this point (2½ miles south of
| | |J. Barima) the river is quite
| | |close to the road, which changes
| | |its direction to 200° magnetic.
| | |
| 7 | 45 |The road rises slightly in the
| | |next mile and 3½ miles further on
| | |goes through bush which, though
| | |open on the E. side, is fairly
| | |thick on the W., making the river
| | |invisible.
| | |
Wad Belal | 3 | 48 |After 3 miles through open bush
| | |and sand hills, Wad Belal, a wood
| | |station for steamers and a good
| | |watering place is reached.
| | |
| 2 | 50 |For the first 2 miles from Wad
| | |Belal the road runs through
| | |scattered trees which become
| | |fairly close bush on the river
| | |side for another 2 miles.
| | |
El Geteina | 4½ | 54½ |The road enters a large plain of
| | |cotton soil, with three tracks
| | |across it to Arab dwellings,
| | |towards the centre of the Gezira
| | |about 4 miles in, and reaches the
| | |large village of El Geteina. On
| | |the river side there is a large
| | |alluvial flat about 2 miles
| | |across, and 3 to 4 miles long,
| | |which runs north of El Geteina
| | |towards Wad Belal. There is a
| | |curious round sand hill in the
| | |middle of this flat which must be
| | |an island at high Nile.
| | |
| | |El Geteina consists of two
| | |villages about 1 mile apart, the
| | |larger of the two being to the
| | |north. It is fairly clean and has
| | |a very good market. There was a
| | |certain amount of cultivation
| | |going on with Shadufs (not an
| | |amount proportionate to the size
| | |of the village), and a large tract
| | |of country is obviously sown with
| | |dura during the rains. This was
| | |the most prosperous village I saw
| | |on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is
| | |now Head Quarters of Geteina
| | |District.
| | |
| | |One mile over cotton soil beyond
| | |the village of El Geteina, a small
| | |one of the same name is reached.
| | |
| | |Immediately on leaving this, the
| | |road runs into sand dunes with
| | |bush for 1 mile; river close (200
| | |yards).
| | |
| | |After that, 6½ miles of very good
| | |going through scattered trees. The
| | |road here is crossed by a large
| | |number of Arab tracks to meshras;
| | |and many herds of sheep and goats
| | |were seen. River invisible from
| | |road.
| | |
| | |The next 3 miles runs through
| | |fairly thick bush with open
| | |spaces. This bush gets thinner as
| | |it recedes from the river. During
| | |the next 2½ miles the road passes
| | |to west of a fine strip of open
| | |cotton soil about 2½ miles wide,
| | |separated from the river by a
| | |thick strip of bushes and a large
| | |alluvial plain, so that now
| | |(12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles
| | |from the river. Much dura seems to
| | |have been grown here, but only a
| | |small portion of this large plain
| | |was under cultivation last year.
| | |
| | |At the end of this plain to the
| | |S.E. there are a line of sand
| | |hills running N.E. to S.W., and
| | |getting gradually smaller towards
| | |the S.W. These run alongside the
| | |road, beyond the open plain, and
| | |end in some small dunes near the
Garrasa | 12 | 66½ |village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a
| | |small village—without a market—the
| | |people of which seem poor. There
| | |is a good meshra here. Leaving
| | |Garrasa the road runs through
| 3 | 69½ |about 3 miles of dura land, a
| | |large part of which has been
| | |recently cultivated. River ¼ to ½
| | |mile away.
| | |
Wad Shalai | 2½ | 72 |After 2½ miles more, alongside
| | |sand hills near the river, the
| | |road reaches the small village of
| | |Wad Shalai—the inhabitants of
| | |which were all away on the river
| | |bank cultivating.
| | |
Wad El Saki | 7 | 79 |Seven miles further, Wad El Saki,
| | |a large village on the top of some
| | |sand hills, is reached.
| | |
| | |The population was about 400 to
| | |500 (March, 1899). The road runs
| | |the first half of this distance
| | |through sand dunes on both sides,
| | |with the river close and visible.
| | |The last half leaves the river
| | |gradually, and passing through
| | |some dura ground, is about 1½
| | |miles from it at Wad El Saki.
| | |
Sayef | 3 | 82 |From here 3 miles take one to a
| | |few houses about 2 miles from the
| | |river on some sand hills called
| | |Sayef, being one of three villages
| | |of that name.
| | |
| 4 | 86 |After 4 miles over cotton soil the
| | |road crosses a sand-hill ridge
| | |running at right angles to the
| 1 | 87 |river, and about 1 mile from it,
| | |and descends into the plain close
| | |to the river at a point where
| | |another village, also called
| | |Sayef, is seen about 2 miles
| | |inland. At this point there is a
| | |good meshra, and a ferry to the
| | |other bank.
| | |
| 6 | 93 |After several miles of low scrub
| | |on the river side, and cotton soil
| | |which has all been cultivated, on
| | |the east Debasi Meshra is reached.
| | |
| | |Here the Khalifa had a big grain
| | |depôt, the ruins of which can
| | |still be seen. There is a regular
| | |ferry from here to the other bank.
| | |Two miles from this meshra is the
Debasi | 2 | 95 |village of Debasi; population
| | |about 400. The road for this
| | |distance is through sand hills, ½
| | |mile from the river.
| | |
| | |The village is on the north bank
| | |of deep khor. No water in khor
| | |(13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might
| | |entail 2 or 3 miles circuit at
| | |high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha
| | |(3½ miles) road close to bank.
| | |Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles
| | |distant.
| | |
| | |Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile
| | |east of road. Sandy bank to river,
| | |good watering; slight scrub close
| | |to river to 6th mile. Thence scrub
| | |and sunt trees along road (thick
| | |near river), cotton soil, muddy
| | |bank. Road closes to river at
| | |Ghobeisha.
| | |
Ghobeisha | 13 | 108 |Ghobeisha meshra and village, good
| | |place for camp and watering. Road
| | |crosses open plain with high grass
| | |cotton soil, probably under water
| | |at high Nile.
| | |
Ghayafa | 4½ | 112½ |Ghayafa meshra, good camping
| | |ground and watering place; sand
| | |hill near meshra. Scrub fairly
| | |thick, cotton soil.
| | |
Denegila | 8½ | 121 |Denegila village, W. of road,
| | |opposite island of same name; 1½
| | |miles further, village Abu Karun,
| | |N. of road, where it crosses track
Um Gar | 4 | 125 |to Um Seneita, thence to Um Gar
| | |village, W. of road, opposite
| | |island same name. Dura crops in
| | |this district; thick bush close to
Meshra El | 3 | 128 |river to Meshra El Hella. Road
Hella | | |runs close to river to Kawa.
| | |
Kawa | 4 | 132 |Kawa, large village with suk, Head
| | |Quarters of District, Post and
| | |Telegraph station. Road runs ½
| | |mile to 1 mile from river through
| | |dura cultivation, and then over
| | |grassy plain past village Abu
| | |Hindi.
| | |
Meshra | 6 | 138 |Meshra and village close to river.
Shaggara | | |
| | |
| | |Thence past Kanuz village, with
| | |island opposite, the road runs ¼
| | |mile to ½ mile from river to
Hassan Alob | 7 | 145 |Hassan Alob, on the banks of the
| | |river with an island called Dabus
| | |opposite. Still through bush
Nur Ed Daim | 3 | 148 |country to Nur El Daim (large
| | |village and police station). Road
| | |leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile
Sheikh’s tomb | 3 | 151 |distant up to Sheikh’s tomb
| | |(Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on
| | |the river bank. Three large trees,
| | |a ruined mud and brick building,
| | |and some flags mark it.
| | |
Shawal | 2 | 153 |Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large
| | |village. Country: open bush,
| | |slightly undulating; good sandy
| | |watering places at river. J.
| | |Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island
| | |begins 2 miles S.
| | |
Malaha | 3 | 156 |Meshra Malaha and village
| | |Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt
Marabia | 8 | 164 |works. Road enters scrub; bush
| | |country to Marabia, good camping
| | |ground on high ground, where there
| | |are the ruins of an old fort and
| | |brick buildings. Road leaves
| | |river, crosses a grassy
| | |plain—probably under water at full
| | |Nile—passed village Torba, E. of
Goz Abu Guma | 16½ | 180½ |road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu
or Zeinuba | | |Guma, Head Quarters of District,
| | |telegraph and post office.
| | |
| | |From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile
| | |to 1 mile from river. Line of
| | |villages (_see_ sketch) on high
| | |ground about 4½ miles from river.
| | |Chiefly cattle grazing.
| | |
_El Khema_ | 6 | 186½ |Road joins river at El Khema.
| | |Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit;
_Mokada Abu | 4½ | 195½ |good camping ground and small
Zeit_ | | |village. There is a ford here at
| | |low Nile. Two miles further on
| | |Musran Island begins and continues
| | |to 3 miles of Jebelein.
| | |
_Meshra Hedib_| 4½ | 200 |Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The
| | |road keeps close to the river
| | |bank. The E. channel seemed very
| | |much blocked with sudd, only a
| | |narrow passage 50 yards wide being
| | |visible at times.
| | |
| | |There is a meshra to Musran
| | |Island, 7 miles as the road turns
| | |from Jebelein called Zuleit. Hence
_Meshra | 17½ | 217½ |the road winds through thick
Zuleit_ | | |scrub, with patches of open
| | |country right up to the ford at
_Jebelein_ | 8½ | 225 |Jebelein.
| | |
| | |Rocky hills commanding the river
| | |about 300 feet high.
| | |
| | |Grassy plain between north and
| | |south ridges.
| | |
| | |Village on E. of southern ridge.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

33.—KHARTOUM TO GULE, _viâ_ MANAGIL AND SEGADI.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |Leaving Khartoum by the track
| | |passing 200 yards west of the
| | |westernmost rifle butts, the
| | |country for the first 7 miles is
| | |quite open, and very slightly
| | |undulating. The soil is poor and
| | |sandy, and no attempt at
| | |cultivation is visible. At 8 miles
| | |the track passes through low
| | |scattered arak bush, which
_Id El | 17½ | 17½ |continues to Id El Agaliin, where
Agaliin_ | | |there is one well 120 feet deep
| | |with a good supply of water. Ahmed
| | |El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin.
| | |Very fair grazing for camels on
| | |arak bush. Leaving the Id the
| | |country soon becomes open and
| | |bare, the soil richer, and traces
| | |of cultivation appear. Numerous
| | |cross tracks to the river are met
| | |with.
| | |
_Id Wad El | 4 | 21½ |One well 120 feet deep; water said
Bella_ | | |to be plentiful.
| | |
_Sherafat_ | 9 | 30½ |A tukl village (all villages met
| | |hereafter are built of tukls) is
| | |passed 1¼ miles on W. of track. It
| | |has a well. A mile further on arak
| | |and laot bush commence and
_Id El Orus_ | 5½ | 36 |continue to Id El Orus, where
| | |there is one well 120 feet deep;
| | |water plentiful, but slightly
| | |salt. About a mile before reaching
| | |the Id a large village named
| | |Debeisa is passed about 1 mile to
| | |the east. The people here are a
| | |mixture of Jaalin, Awamer, &c.
| | |Very fair grazing for camels on
| | |arak; there is little or no grass
| | |here or anywhere else this year.
| | |
| 7½ | 43½ |On leaving the Id the same sort of
| | |country continues, cultivation and
| | |scattered arak bush, the track
| | |still keeping the same S.S.W.
| | |direction. At 7½ miles the road to
| | |El Ribi branches off half left,
_Id El Kereil_| 2½ | 46 |and 2½ miles further on Id El
| | |Kereil is passed, ½ mile off on
| 2 | 48 |the right, the village being about
| | |the same distance further W. of
| | |the well. The country now becomes
| | |perfectly bare (at this season),
| | |it being entirely under
| | |cultivation, if not this year at
| | |any rate in a good season, and the
| | |bush ceases altogether. Villages
| | |begin to get numerous, and natives
| | |are more frequently met, as from
| | |here on to Managil, but few leave
| | |their villages for the river. This
| | |district is known as Gutefab, and
_Gutefab El | 4 | 52 |the chief village is El Areik
Areik_ | | |(Awamer) which is on the road, the
| | |Id being a mile to the east.
| | |
| 3 | 55 |About 3 miles on arak grows and
| | |affords the only grazing for
| | |camels, but it only extends for
| | |about ½ mile along the road; the
| | |country then become scattered with
| 2 | 57 |laot bush and naal grass.
| | |
Goz El Naga | 2 | 59 |Goz El Naga is passed about a mile
| | |on the right. Not much cultivation
| | |visible about here.
| | |
Dagala | 3 | 62 |A small village with no well.
| | |
| 1½ | 63½ |Road branches: right to Sarhan,
| | |left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where
Wad Abu | 3 | 66½ |lives the sheikh of the same name;
Kassawi | | |his ancestors are buried close by,
| | |and have always been of a so-
| | |called religious nature and used
| | |to be at any rate, if not now,
| | |head of a dervish-like Tarika.
| | |Village consists of about 100
| | |tukls. Low laot bush around here.
| 1¾ | 68¼ |Leaving the village on bearing
| | |216° after 1¾ miles road from
_Sarhan_ | 3 | 71¼ |Dagala to Sarhan is met and
| | |followed; the well of Sarhan being
| | |passed close by on the left and
| | |the village about 1 mile on the
| | |right. Country here quite flat,
| | |and covered with naal grass where
_El Ogda_ | 5¾ | 77 |not cultivated. El Ogda a large
| | |Mugharba village with one well of
| | |the usual depth, 120 feet. Water
| | |plentiful, 50 camels watered
| | |without inconvenience to
| | |inhabitants. Leaving the Id,
| | |country continues the same flat
| | |naal-covered plain with occasional
_Wad El Zein_ | 11¾ | 88¾ |laot bushes until nearing Wad El
| | |Zein (Omda Ahmed Wad El Zein),
| | |where remains of cultivation
| | |increase. There is one well 120
| | |feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No
| | |grazing here for camels as
| | |elsewhere in this neighbourhood.
| | |Cultivation occurs at intervals,
| | |becoming more general after
| | |passing Sheteita a small Mugharba
_Sheteita_ | 4 | 92¾ |village. Kreimet is a large Arakin
| | |village, Omda Ahmed Yusef. Its two
_Kreimet_ | 5½ | 98¼ |wells are 4 miles further on.
| | |Another large Arakin village on
_Wells_ | 4 | 102¼ |left of road with a well, as also
| | |have two other villages close on
El Tageia | 1¼ | 103½ |right of road.
| | |
_Managil_ | 3½ | 107 |The plural of El Mangala, the name
| | |given to the village in which the
| | |suk is situated. There are some
| | |half dozen to a dozen villages
| | |close together. There are three
| | |wells and water never fails,
| | |notwithstanding they are 150 feet
| | |deep. Here there are inspector’s
| | |houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There
| | |is a large mixed population, some
| | |of whom were seen playing a game
| | |called “tiwa” very like rounders.
| | |The plain of Managil is absolutely
| | |flat, without a single bush in
| | |sight, the whole in favourable
| | |seasons being given up to
| | |cultivation. Market days are
| | |Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving
| | |Managil by the route taken Otgi
| | |(Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El
| | |Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile
| | |or more on the right hand, whilst
| | |Takala and Um Dugl are passed on
| | |the left, before reaching Um Talha
| | |a Faradiin village. All these
| | |villages have wells, as have all
| | |villages of any pretensions about
_Um Talha_ | 9½ | 116½ |here.
| | |
_Sheleikha_ | 2½ | 119 |A Shaigia village passed on left,
| | |and Wad Doka on the right, before
_El Amara_ | 3½ | 122½ |reaching El Amara (Hameg), and ¾
| | |mile further on Wad Gangar
_Wad Gangari_ | ¾ | 123¼ |(Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾ miles
| | |further on, and a ¼ mile before
_Rabaha_ | 1¾ | 125 |reaching it a small suk is passed.
| | |From here on the people are
| | |Kawahla.
| | |
| | |Between Managil and Rabaha the
| | |track appears to follow a low
| | |ridge overlooking an extensive and
| | |fertile plain to the W. growing a
| | |large amount of cotton and dura.
| | |J. Maturi is plainly visible.
| | |
| | |After leaving Rabaha track passes
| | |through low laot bush which
| | |continues as far as Khalet. Two
| | |villages, Hellet El Hag and Wad
| | |Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile
| | |on the right and left of road _en
| | |route_, as also is Sheikh Abdel
_Khalet_ | 5½ | 130½ |Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is
| | |the last on the road to Segadi,
| | |there are several other Kawahla
| | |villages with cultivation and
| | |wells close by. Imam Ali is the
| | |head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet
| | |it is possible under favourable
| | |conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon
| | |after leaving Khalet the first
| | |kittr is met, it now becomes the
| | |prevailing bush.
| | |
Wad Mukashfi | 4½ | 135 |Called after the son of the
| | |Dervish Emir who captured Sennar,
| | |who (son) now lives here and is
| | |said to have only lately come out
| | |of prison for dervish practices.
| | |This is the last village in the
| | |Managil District of Blue Nile
| | |Province. The Sennar Province is
| | |now entered. After passing the
| | |Mukashfi cultivation, the road
| | |leads across an uninhabited
| | |waterless plain until Segadi is
| | |reached. This plain, on which
| | |numerous camels are grazed during
| | |the rains, is, as a rule, open and
| | |covered with naal and siha grass
| | |intersected at intervals by belts
| | |of kittr, the thickest and widest
| | |is in the last 4 miles before
| | |reaching the hamlet on the north
_J. Sejadi_ | 24 | 159 |of J. Segadi. Another outlying
| | |hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed
| 1 | 160 |but not seen, about 4 miles from
| | |the jebel which strongly resembles
| | |J. Kassala on a small scale. It
| | |consists of two main granite
| | |masses lying north-east and south-
| | |west, the wells being between
| | |them. There is also one on the
| | |western side of main jebel. The
| | |village, which must contain some
| | |1,500 inhabitants, is close to the
| | |western face of the larger jebel.
| | |The population is very mixed, and
| | |many only live here during the dry
| | |season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is
| | |Sheikh of this heterogeneous
| | |crowd. There are said to be caves
| | |in the jebels here, which
| | |doubtless occasionally harbour bad
| | |characters from the Gezira and
| | |elsewhere.
| | |
_Moya_ | 13½ | 173½ |Following the telegraph line which
| | |runs E.S.E., Moya is reached in
| | |about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is
| | |passed through _en route_, but the
| | |road is cleared for the wire.
| | |Approaching Moya much cultivation
| | |is passed in clearings in the
| | |bush. The name Moya as applied to
| | |this village is an euphemism as
| | |water is particularly scarce, and
| | |is obtained from several 15 to 20
| | |feet wells under the jebel 1 mile
| | |south of the village. In the hot
| | |weather the inhabitants (probably
| | |2,000) disperse or else carry
| | |their water from Segadi. The
| | |Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai,
| | |and the majority of the population
| | |are Amarna, a few Hameg and
| | |Gowama. There are caves called
| | |“maiuba” in the jebel close to the
| | |village, said to be used for
| | |“fogara.” From the summit of the
| | |jebel, J. Dali is plainly visible
| | |on a favourable day, bearing 177½°
| | |magnetic. There is little shade
| | |here.
| | |
Road to Teigo | 3 | 176½ |After hugging the eastern end of
| | |J. Moya, the road to Gule turns
| | |nearly due south, the road to
| | |Teigo branching off S.S.E., and
| | |after traversing a bad belt of
| | |kittr bush about ½ mile in width,
| | |the road crosses a plain at first
| | |studded with kurmet, but later
| | |without bush at all.
| | |
| 4 | 180½ |Road here bifurcates, the left
| | |hand track leading to the river
| | |(Blue Nile).
| | |
| 5 | 185½ |The road from Seneij or Senga to
| | |Goz Abu Guma _viâ_ J. Dud crosses
| | |the track.
| | |
J. Sereig | 10 | 195½ |A small granite hill about 200
| | |feet high, the road passes it 100
| | |yards on the right hand.
| | |
| 6 | 201½ |Scattered bush now commences and
| | |continues with occasional
_J. Dali_ | 19½ | 221 |interruptions until reaching the
| | |bad kittr about 1 mile wide
| | |surrounding Jebel Dali, a stony
| | |hill about 500 feet high. Water is
| | |found about half way up,
| | |immediately below its highest
| | |point. After a good rainy season
| | |it lasts till March or April, but
| | |there was practically none on
| | |February 4th, 1902.
| | |
| | |The road from Senga _viâ_ Teigo on
| | |Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu
| | |Guma passes by this watering
| | |place. Remains of former
| | |habitations of Abu Rof Arabs are
| | |visible. Leaving the jebel in a
| | |southerly direction after
| | |traversing a thick belt of kittr,
| | |½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible
J. Abu Garud | 22 | 243 |on the left and J. Abu Garud and
| | |other hills on the right. Abu
| | |Garud is the highest hill seen
| | |south of Khartoum. At first the
| | |country is open, then forest
| | |(chiefly soffar) begins and
J. Bozi | 9 | 252 |continues till after passing J.
| | |Bozi a long, low hill immediately
| | |under the west end of which the
| | |road passes, and then becomes open
_J. Mazmum_ | 14 | 266 |until reaching J. Mazmum. Here
| | |rain and spring water is found in
| | |natural tanks in perhaps half a
| | |dozen places. The amount of water
| | |of course varying with the rains.
| | |There was sufficient in a tank at
| | |the foot of the southern end of
| | |the western face of the jebel to
| | |water 40 camels and 40 men for two
| | |days. This exhausted this supply.
| | |A spring at the foot of the
| | |southern end of the western face,
| | |being on the road, is the one
| | |generally used, and the supply is
_Water Tank_ | 1½ | 267½ |consequently low. There is a tank
| | |about 20 yards by 10 yards on a
| | |detached hill, about ¾ mile N.W.
| | |of main jebel. Water was found of
| | |an average depth of 2 feet, both
| | |sweet and clear. This being off
| | |the road had not been much used.
| | |There is said to be always water
| | |at Mazmum. No natives[21] live
| | |here now, though formerly it was
| | |head quarters of the Abu Rof
| | |Arabs, the remains of whose houses
| | |are still visible. Good shade (200
| | |men), and very fair grazing for
| | |camels near western water tank.
| | |From here, Gireiwa and other hills
| | |to the S. and S.E., as well as
| | |Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily
| | |visible.
| | |
| 4 | 271½ |The track to Gule still leads
| | |south, the country being open for
| 5 | 276½ |first 4 miles, when narrow belt of
| | |bush is traversed. Five miles
| | |further on thick soffar bush
| | |commences which develops into
| | |forest, which extends E. and W.
| | |continuously for many miles south
| | |of Gule. The principal trees are
| | |hashab (very numerous about 20th
| | |mile, but decrease as Gireiwa is
| | |approached), talh, nabag, soffar,
| | |kadad, and the poisonous (to
| | |camels) hakabit. Wide clearings
| | |along the path indicate that in
| | |the old days this road was much
| | |used, but now they are mostly
| | |overgrown, and travelling by night
| | |is an unpleasant, if not a
| | |dangerous proceeding.
| | |
_J. Gireiwa_ | 21½ | 298 |Two long low hills running nearly
| | |E. and W., and where the road
| | |passes between them there is a
| | |small supply of water (spring), 20
| | |yards on right side of road.
| | |
_El Burun_ | 7 | 305 |J. Gule is first visible from
| | |here, and is a granite mass about
| | |1,300 (?) feet high and 1¾ miles
| | |long, lying nearly E. and W. El
| | |Burun a small village at the foot
| | |of northern face of the jebel is
| | |first approached, the road then
| | |turns to the west, passing an
| | |encampment of Dar Agil Arabs, and
| | |after rounding the western end of
_Gule_ | 3 | 308 |Jebel Gule the village of Gule is
| | |reached close at the foot of
| | |western and of southern face.
| | |There is a plentiful supply of
| | |water, which, however, is largely
| | |impregnated with lime and
| | |consequently is injurious to
| | |health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh
| | |of Dar Fung and lives here. He is
| | |a direct descendant of the kings
| | |of the Fung, whose former
| | |territory extended to the south
| | |beyond the present limits of the
| | |Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The
| | |total inhabitants of Gule and its
| | |two outlying hamlets is about
| | |1,000. The natives are Hameg, and
| | |Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam
| | |about in the neighbourhood. Roads
| | |lead from here to Roseires (5
| | |days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj,
| | |and Renk (2 days). There is much
| | |fever here during and after the
| | |rainy season. There is good shade
| | |about 1 mile east of the village.
| | |Little in the way of supplies, not
| | |even grain, is obtainable here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

34.—MANAGIL TO SENNAR.

BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH, V.C., 1899.