Chapter V: (central Sudan.) (2)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Managil | — | — |Headquarters of District (_vide_
| | |preceding report).
| | |
_Abud_ (Abudia| 9½ | 9½ |Most fertile land in the Gezira
Tribe) | | |hereabouts. Track runs E. through
| | |grass plain. Bush visible 1 mile
| | |to S. Two wells 150 feet deep.
| | |Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to
| | |Wad Medani, and S.E. to Sennar.
| | |
Um Deghina | 1 | 10½ |Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry after
(Kawahla) | | |December. Cultivation commences.
| | |
| 2 | 12½ |Mimosa scrub W. of track.
| | |
| 3 | 15½ |Village of same name ½ mile S.
| | |
| 2 | 17½ |A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high,
| | |and high grass on both sides of
| | |the road. The Hassanat have a camp
| | |in the winter about 2 miles W. of
| | |track, and water at Abud and
| | |Ataleih.
| | |
_Ataleih_ | 4 | 21½ |Two wells. A large tree ½ mile
| | |N.W. serves as landmark. No good
| | |shade obtainable. S. of this,
| | |thorny scrub has sprung up on
| | |fallow land. A track leading S.W.
| | |to Bagadi, Kenana, Digoisab and
| | |Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on
| | |about S.E.
| | |
_Keteir_ | 6 | 27½ |Small village marked by a large
| | |tree. One well about 150 feet
| | |deep, runs dry directly after
| | |watering about 200 people, 300
| | |sheep and 20 donkeys.
| | |
_Karatib_ | 4 | 31½ |Large village, good well,
(Jaalin and | | |excellent black cotton soil
Kenana) | | |extending for 3 miles in all
| | |directions. Only patches have been
| | |cultivated for dura.
| | |
| 2 | 33½ |Thick bush and high grass. View
| | |limited to 300 yards.
| | |
_Basabir_ | 1 | 34½ |New well being sunk. Cotton and
(Jaalin) | | |dura crops.
| | |
_Fahal_ | 1 | 35½ |About 50 huts to W. Copious supply
(Kenana) | | |of water from well. A small khor
| | |S.E. of it holds water till
| | |December. Wood extends to S.
| | |
Fahal Suk | 1 | 36½ |Consists of rows of straw shanties
| | |situated in a wood. It is chiefly
| | |used by Kenana.
| | |
_El Giseirab_ | 2 | 38½ |One good well in a clearing in
| | |wood. Easily defended; good
| | |bivouac ground.
| | |
_Tulbakh_ | 4 | 42½ |Last mile of approach is open and
| | |partly cultivated. Long straggling
| | |village. Dry pond and cemetery N.
| | |of it. To S.W. the market, and a
| | |well and pond which dried up about
| | |10th February. Mohammed El Nur of
| | |Kenana is Sheikh of village.
| | |Several hundred sheep, many
| | |donkeys, one horse, fowls and
| | |pigeons, but no camels. The best
| | |marked track leads S. from the
| | |Suk, and, bending S.E., passes
| | |zeribaed dura fields to El Doma,
| | |where there is a village and a
_El Doma_ | 8 | 50½ |well. It continues, through shady
| | |acacia and fields to Meshra El
_Meshra El | 4 | 54½ |Dai, whence the Blue Nile can be
Dai_ | | |reached.
| | |
_Meshra El | 2 | 56½ |Good halting place on bank.
Bejirat_ | | |
| | |
_Sennar_ | 9 | 65½ |Banks wooded.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

35.—KEILI TO SENGA, _viâ_ GULE.

COMPILED FROM A REPORT FURNISHED BY LIEUT.-COL. GORRINGE, MARCH,
1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Keili, S.W. | — | — |Limited water supply from water
| | |holes, but more could be had by
| | |digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil
| | |in places and stony in others—
| | |single file along track.
| | |
_Khor Farsia_ | 11 | 11 |Insufficient water at Kukulik, had
| | |to go on to Khor Farsia, fair
| | |supply of water by digging 4 feet.
| | |After which, no water first 3
| | |miles. Cotton soil, single file.
| | |After J. Doya, good hard going
| | |cotton soil last 2 miles.
| | |
_Khor Togu_ | 33½ | 44½ |Ample water 18 feet below surface
| | |in Khor Togu, first 4 miles cotton
| | |soil. Rest house. After reaching
| | |J. Dunkur good hard going for 3
| | |miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1
| | |mile each side J. Bur-Burka good
| | |going, then bad again over cotton
| | |soil, insufficient water at first
| | |village 4 miles from spot camped
| | |at, a little water half way
| | |between village and camp in Khor
| | |Togu.
| | |
_Seraf Dal_ | 10½ | 55 |Ample water running and in pools,
| | |single file, stony, fair going
| | |only, bad in places. Rest house at
| | |Soda.
| | |
_Khor Tamrin_ | 7 | 62 |Fair supply of water in pools
| | |probably ample by digging, a good
| | |deal up and down hill, hard going
| | |but stone, single file.
| | |
_J. Kukur_ | 5 | 67 |Good supply of water reported in
| | |Seraf Sahaba, hard going, stony,
| | |single file. Rest house.
| | |
_J. Buk_ (N.W.| 8½ | 75½ |Rest house. Fair supply of water
end) | | |in water holes, cotton soil,
| | |single file, bad going. From here
| | |on no water, very bad going, hard
| | |cotton soil badly cracked, single
| | |file, though road has been
| | |widened.
| | |
_J. Gule_ | 30½ | 106 |Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad
| | |Ragab. Limited supply of water in
| | |water holes, good supply from
| | |Government wells, very bad going
| | |except in few places, soil badly
| | |cracked, single file, though road
| | |has been widened.
| | |
_J. Jemam_ or | 9 | 115 |Small supply of water here.
_Ali_ | | |
| | |
_J. Roro_ | 5½ | 120½ |Plenty of water in water holes 4
(N.E. side) | | |feet deep, going same as before.
| | |Continuing, no water but better
| | |going, though mostly cotton soil,
| | |single file.
| | |
_J. Werka_ | 19 | 139½ |Small amount of water in holes.
| | |
_J. Gerebin_ | 15½ | 155 |Very limited supply of water in
| | |water holes in two places at N.
| | |side of hill, just sufficient
| | |water in each to water about 100
| | |horses once. _There is however a
| | |large tank of beautiful water on
| | |the top of the hill_. This does
| | |not last throughout the dry
| | |weather. Going same as before.
| | |From here to the river there is no
| | |water, going for the first 7 miles
| | |same as before, after which it
| | |improves, but all marching is in
| | |single file.
| | |
_Meshra Gurra_| 25 | 180 |From here good road down L. B.
(Blue Nile) | | |Blue Nile to Singa.
| | |
_Ramela_ | 10 | 190 |Jaalin village.
| | |
_Abu Naam_ | 3 | 193 |Village on Blue Nile.
| | |
_Geneira_ | 8 | 201 | „ „ „
| | |
_Seiro_ | 7½ | 208½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Senga_ | 19½ | 228 |Head quarters of Senga District.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

36.—SENGA TO J. JEROK, _viâ_ KHOR OFAT AND KEILI.

BY CAPTAIN C. ROBERTS, R.A., FEBRUARY, 1904.

NOTE.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.

From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Senga | — | — |Leaving Senga, road good, mostly
| | |over cotton soil; last part better
| | |than first, but dusty. Country
| | |covered with bush. There are two
| | |roads; westerly one to Um Bayaga
| | |and thence S.E. towards river,
| | |other road runs nearer the river.
| | |Wheeled transport feasible.
| | |
_Um Benein_ | 6 | 6 |There are two Meshras here, bad at
| | |High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood
| | |plentiful, grass fairly so. From
| | |here two roads, the one nearest
| | |river is shortest. Going on upper
| | |road bad after leaving Dar Agil,
| | |last part better along telegraph
| | |line. Thick bush. Good camp about
| | |2 miles from telegraph line. Good
_Meshra Abu | 18 | 24 |Meshra, wood and grass plentiful,
Hagar_ | | |duck jhil 3 miles S. of camp.
| | |
| | |From here two roads, one along
| | |river, other along telegraph line,
| | |latter shorter. Bad going, cotton
| | |soil, thick scrub. Bad (steep)
| | |meshra for animals. Headquarters
_Abu Naama_ | 14 | 38 |of District.
| | |
| | |From here two roads, better and
| | |shorter upper one along telegraph.
| | |Country thick bush, more
| | |undulating. Good going.
| | |
_Gura_ | 15 | 53 |Good meshra and shady camp. From
| | |here two roads, lower one along
| | |river the shorter—latter part
| | |along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts
| | |through it. River reached by
| | |elephant track. Country dense
| | |scrub, and difficult for camels at
_Galgeni_ | 15 | 68 |night. At high Nile lower road
| | |impassable. Good camp on sandy bed
| | |of river. Grass plentiful and
| | |watering easy. Road now good
| | |though hilly, and follows
| | |telegraph line, but branches off
| | |to river opposite to Sherif Ahmed
| | |(right bank). Dense bush.
| | |
_Taulu_ | 19 | 87 |A very good, large camping ground
| | |on grass and good meshra. Wood and
| | |grass plentiful. Camp must be
| | |swampy in rains.
| | |
| | |Road still hilly; difficult khor
| | |about 4 miles from camp, could be
| | |easily improved. Road difficult
| | |for camels owing to thick bush,
| | |and road along telegraph too
| | |hilly.
| | |
_Abu Kok_ | 17 | 104 |Camp at Abu Kok in February bad,
| | |as site is really a marsh. Bad
| | |water, but later on river is
| | |getatable.
| | |
_El Disa_ | 10 | 114 |From here road along telegraph,
| | |but later branches off to El Disa
| | |on a rise overlooking small lake.
| | |Very pretty place. Camped on sandy
| | |river bed; easy watering; wood and
| | |grass plentiful.
| | |
| | |After striking telegraph good
| | |road, first 4 miles through thick
| | |scrub. Hilly at first, level after
| | |passing Abu Rainat, and much
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Roseires_ | 14 | 128 |Good meshra, fair camping ground,
(Left Bank) | | |wood and grass plentiful.
| | |
_Kharaba_ | 11 | 139 |Continuing S. good going to
(Right Bank) | | |opposite Kharaba. Good camp in
| | |grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks
| | |steep and bed of river soft.
| | |
_Mouth of Khor| 16 | 155 |Good road, last part through dom
Ofat_ | | |jungle to Khor Ofat. Found eight
| | |water holes dug in khor, and
| | |cavalry camped 1 mile further down
| | |at pool in bed of khor. Good
| | |camping ground in bed of khor;
| | |grass and water plentiful.
| | |
| | |The route taken now lay nearly due
| | |S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles
| | |followed khor, then found
| | |excellent road, except for
| | |occasional deep elephant tracks
| | |along bank. Mostly cotton soil and
| | |thick jungle. Descended into bed
| | |of khor after 10 miles, and
| | |marched up it to where we found
_Camp (Khor | 16 | 171 |running water. Good camping ground
Ofat)_ | | |close by. Grass, wood, and water
| | |all plentiful. Continuing S.
| | |outside khor, cotton soil, good
| | |going, thick bush, grass higher
| | |and thicker as we descended into
| | |khor, 9 miles from last camp. Left
| | |khor again still heading S., road
| | |bad, cotton soil, trees bigger.
| | |Last 4 miles country more open and
_Camp, Pool | 20 | 191 |going better. Extended formations
(Khor Ofat)_ | | |possible. Camped at pool where
| | |large herd of roan drinking. Khor
| | |400 yards wide. Good camp, grass,
| | |shade, wood, and water plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here marched up khor; mostly
| | |very heavy going, parts of it
_Camp (Khor | 15 | 206 |hard. Uninteresting road. Khor
Ofat)_ | | |narrows to 120 yards. Halted at
| | |two big water holes. More water
| | |obtained by digging under W. bank.
| | |
| | |Continuing marching up khor which
| | |becomes narrower and stonier,
| | |passed through several “shellal”
| | |(cataracts) and khors running into
| | |Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor
| | |good hard going.
| | |
Camp (Khor | 15 | 221 |Banks become lower, bamboo jungle
Ofat) | | |chiefly with large trees. Good
| | |camp and water from holes in bed
| | |of khor.
| | |
_Camp (Khor | 13 | 234 |Leave Khor Ofat to the W. At first
Ofat)_ | | |bad going, pass large patch of
| | |cultivation with tukls and leave
| | |J. Ragreig on the E., and strike
| | |khor at pool; good road. Khor 15
| | |yards wide and runs E. and W.
| | |here. From here good road to
_Keili_ | 5 | 239 |Keili. Good camping ground, but
| | |water in wells dirty. Good water
| | |obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles
| | |N.N.E. Garrison, 50 Sudanese
| | |regulars. Path from here
| | |excellent, passing through good
| | |deal of cultivation and leaving J.
| | |Kamya from which good view of a
| | |surrounding country obtainable
| | |close to E.
| | |
_Khor Timsa_ | 11 | 250 |After J. Kamya track intersected
| | |by khors and is over bad cotton
| | |soil. Good camp, grass poor, water
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here to Jerok trying march,
| | |as path continually ascends and
| | |descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the
| | |W.
| | |
_J. Jerok_ | 20 | 270 |Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad
| | |Mahmud. Garrison of 50 Sudanese
| | |regulars on small hill, about 1½
| | |miles S. Water supply scanty, but
| | |plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in
| | |Khor Agaheni.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

37.—ROSEIRES TO KEILI, _viâ_ GULE.

BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Roseires | — | — |
| | |
Abramat | 3 | 3 |Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road
| | |goes through bush and grass.
| | |
_J. Agadi_[22]| 22 | 25 |Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here
| | |in three places, not good. Road
| | |now goes S. until Seraf Jogo;
| | |usual cotton soil and bush.
| | |
_Seraf Jogo_ | 25 | 50 |Rest house and good water here in
| | |khor from a spring; tobacco
| | |cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad
| | |going, over rocks; pass spring at
| | |Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.
| | |
_J. Buk_ | 12 | 62 |Water here under villages on S.
| | |side of hill, not good. Road goes
| | |off N.W. towards Gule; grass and
| | |bush and cotton soil.
| | |
_Gule_ | 27½ | 89½ |Water here good in two places on
| | |S. side of hill. One deep well,
_Khor Deleib_ | 16½ | 106 |good water, also big hole with
| | |Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib;
| | |a flat depression with small khor
| | |in it; sometimes water holes where
| | |Arabs water sheep. Well 20 feet
| | |deep, good supply of water; track
| | |turns to S. to J. Silak.
| | |
_J. Silak_ | 22 | 128 |Water south side of hill, full of
| | |filth, natives even say it is bad,
| | |except just after rain. Rest house
| | |here.
| | |
| | |Road goes off due E. through pass
| | |in J. Sirefat to J. Mogaja.
| | |
_J. Majaju_ | 19¼ | 147¼ |Village on top of high rock; water
| | |has to be brought down by natives—
| | |very good; go due South now to
| | |Abuldugu, road over hard ground.
| | |Well can be easily sunk at bottom
| | |of hill 6 feet deep. Rest house.
| | |
_J. Abuldugu_ | 16½ | 163¾ |Water here in pond in pass in the
| | |hills, getting bad at this time of
| | |year (Feb.). Water obtainable from
| | |wells in K. Ganna, not very
| | |plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a
| | |Rest house here.
| | |
| | |Track due S. to J. Surkum.
| | |
| | |A track also goes to Keili (9
| | |hours march), water plentiful,
| | |Kukeli two-thirds of way.
| | |
_J. Surkum_ | 14 | 177¾ |Water in four places on S.
| | |side—very dirty.
| | |
| | |Water also obtainable in khor
| | |about 1½ miles N.E.
| | |
_J. Keili_ | 20 | 197¾ |Track goes off to W., and is over
| | |cotton soil, and crosses khors.
| | |Water here plentiful. Best water
| | |S. end of big hill some way up.
| | |Rest house.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

38.—FAZOGLI TO GEZAN.

BY LIEUTENANT L. C. JACKSON, R.E.

[Sidenote: The Road.]

Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.

[Sidenote: The Country.]

Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.

[Sidenote: Water.]

Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later.

Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fazogli, Mek’s| — | — |The road leaves the village in a
House | | |southerly direction and runs
| | |straight to the foot of J.
| | |Fazogli, on reaching which it
| | |follows the S.E. spur, but without
| | |ascending it. At first it runs
| | |through patches of cultivation,
| | |but after about ½ mile this gives
| | |place to thin bush. The road is
| | |for the most part good, except
| | |where it crosses numerous small
| | |khors, tributaries of the Khor
| | |Akluli, which also follows the
| | |foot of the ridge, as a rule
| | |between the road and the high
| | |ground. The ascent on the right of
| | |the road is very steep, and the
| | |hill side consists of boulders and
| | |loose stones and is covered with
| | |scrub.
| | |
_Kukuru_ | 6¾ | 6¾ |Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a
| | |few tukls are passed, and shortly
| | |afterwards the road bends
| | |eastwards and enters the village
| | |of Kukuru, which consists of some
| | |50 or 60 tukls. There is a
| | |considerable amount of cultivation
| | |here, but most of it lies S. of
| | |the khor on the Kira road. At the
| | |end of December, 1899, water was
| | |only obtainable from holes in the
| | |bed of the khor, and appears to be
| | |very bad and scarce.
| | |
| | |After crossing the khor the road
| | |runs straight through the bush to
| | |J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba.
| | |Up to J. Taza the surrounding
| | |country is flat and the bush
| | |thick, and nothing can be seen
| | |from the road, except an
| | |occasional glimpse of a distant
| | |hill. A very small quantity of
| | |water was obtained by digging in
| | |the bed of the _Khor Daru_ on the
| | |24th December, 1899, but four days
| | |later on returning this had dried
| | |up.
| | |
| | |Beyond J. Taza the country is more
| | |undulating, but still covered with
| | |bush, and for the last ½ mile
| | |before Khor Baba it is somewhat
| | |rough.
| | |
_Khor Baba_ | 8¾ | 15½ |Camped here 25th December, 1899. A
| | |tributary of the Khor Tumat about
| | |25 yards broad where crossed by
| | |the road. Good water obtainable,
| | |but getting scarce now. Road
| | |beyond somewhat rough and uneven,
| | |which is caused by the spurs of J.
J. Agaro | 4½ | 20 |Agaro, &c., all of which hills are
| | |left on right. Bush, with no
| | |traces of water, until Khor Sumba
| | |is reached, but J. Agaro is
| | |inhabited by Jebelawin.
| | |
_Khor Sumba_ | 5 | 25 |Crossed three times in the space
| | |of about ½ mile. Probably due to
| | |an S curve in the river and not
| | |three distinct channels. Breadth
| | |of each about 35 yards, but
| | |extremely shallow. Banks very
| | |fertile and a good deal of
| | |cultivation, principally dura.
| | |Good water obtainable here.
| | |
Khor Tumat | 1 | 26 |Road just enters khor, where it is
| | |joined by Khor Kari, but leaves it
| | |again without crossing it. Khor
| | |about 60 yards broad here. No
| | |water visible, but could probably
| | |be obtained by digging, as there
| | |is any quantity just below the
| | |surface about 5 miles further
| | |south. From here to the Khor El
| | |Dahab (Adaba), trees are bigger
| | |and water evidently more
| | |plentiful, with many traces of all
| | |sorts of game.
| | |
_Khor El | 2¾ | 28¾ |Crossed by the road about ½ mile
Dahab_ | | |from its junction with the Khor
| | |Tumat. Water obtainable at
| | |present, but very little and bad.
| | |Road crosses east of J. Farbau,
| | |passing over some of the low
| | |spurs; ground broken and stony.
| | |All traces of water now disappear
| | |and the ordinary bush begins
| | |again. Numerous small khors are
| | |crossed, but all completely dry.
| | |J. Gumbûk is left to the E., and
| | |about 1 mile further on signs of
| | |water are again visible and
| | |cultivation recommences, also two
| | |or three tukls. Henceforward
| | |cultivation is continuous, and
| | |about ¾ mile further on at some
| | |more tukls the road turns abruptly
| | |to the right and runs straight
| | |down to the Khor Tumat.
| | |
_Gezan_ (Water| 8 | 36¾ |Camp here in bed of khor 26th
pool in Khor | | |December, 1899. Water good and
Tumat) | | |plentiful but below surface.
| | |
| | |Milk and other supplies only
| | |obtained with great difficulty.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

39.—GEZAN TO KURMUK, _viâ_ SUDE AND M’NZILA.

BY MAJOR GWYNN, D.S.O., R.E.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khor Tumat | — | — |Track passes under the northern
| | |foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching
J. Ghezan | 3 | 3 |J. Sude, water is found in Khor
| | |Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain
| | |amount of gold washing is carried
| | |on in both these water courses.
| | |
_J. Sude_ | 12 | 15 |Sude was the site of an old
| | |Egyptian Mamuria. The present Mek
| | |is a Berta and very few of the
| | |natives know Arabic. There is a
| | |good deal of cultivation and
| | |plenty of water is obtainable.
| | |
_M’Nzila_ | 8½ | 23½ |M’Nzila is a large scattered
| | |village to the south, and south of
| | |J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground
| | |is under cultivation. The leading
| | |men, most of whom are Jaalin who
| | |established themselves there in
| | |the Dervish time, are prosperous.
| | |Road from Sude to M’Nzila very
| | |rough and bad, good water in the
| | |Khor Goga near its source.
| | |
| | |From M’Nzila there is a fair,
| | |though very hilly, road leading
| | |west over the north shoulder of J.
| | |M’Nzila and south of J. Tone. A
| | |very deep ravine runs along the
| | |south side of J. M’Nzila into the
| | |valley between Dul and Kurmuk.
| | |
| | |The descent into the valley just
| | |north of J. Tone is very steep.
| | |
_Sh. Adingam’s| 5½ | 29 |At the bottom of the valley is Sh.
Village_ | | |Adingam’s village, where there is
| | |a good water supply.
| | |
| | |Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk
| | |several gold washings are passed
| | |near the foot of J. Dish.
| | |
| | |The Kurmuk village is very small
| | |and there is little cultivation.
| | |
| | |The road from Sh. Adingam’s is
| | |very bad and stony till clear of
| | |the hills. Then there is flat,
| | |thickly wooded country.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

40.—GULE TO RENK.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gule (Rest | — | — |The track to Renk leaves Gule in
house) | | |an easterly direction and for the
| | |first mile traverses cultivation,
| | |two small Selim Arab encampments
| | |are passed on the right hand;
| | |thick forest at once begins,
| | |composed chiefly of 30 feet high
| | |talh, hashab, nagba, kadad,
| | |soffar, &c., and there is a large
| | |amount of the (to camels) deadly
| | |poisonous hekabit. At this time of
| | |year the grass and undergrowth is
| | |burnt, but the trees are so
| | |thick[23] that they prohibit
| | |marching at night unless with a
| | |good moon. Riding a horse or mule
| | |one is far less inconvenienced
| | |than if on a camel. There are
| | |fairly frequent open spaces
| | |suitable for camping grounds.
| | |
| 21 | 21 |The dense forest ceases and more
| | |or less scattered and much lower
| | |bush takes its place.
| | |
| 5 | 26 |The country through which the
| | |track leads becomes practically
| | |open.
| | |
| 1½ | 27½ |A broad, ill-defined depression,
| | |probably a marsh in rains.
| | |
| 5 | 32½ |Tall and rather close kittr
| | |commences interfering somewhat
| | |with progress.
| | |
| 2½ | 35 |The tall kittr ceases and country
| | |becomes open.
| | |
Khor Deleib or| 2 | 37 |A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet
El Sunt | | |deep is crossed, also known as
| | |Deleib.
| | |
| 1 | 38 |Kittr bush commences and continues
| | |for about 2 miles, not very dense.
| | |
| 4½ | 42½ |Dense tall kittr commences,
| | |considerably retarding progress,
| | |and lasts for 2½ miles.
| | |
| 2½ | 45 |Country becomes open and
| | |cultivation is passed on left.
| | |
| 1 | 46 |Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain
| | |village is passed and the road now
| | |runs along the side of a low,
| | |sandy ridge dotted with heglig
| | |trees, cultivation, and several
| | |Dinka villages.
| | |
| 1 | 47 |Dinka village on right.
| | |
| 1 | 48 |Dinka village on left.
| | |
Khor Deleib or| 4½ | 52½ |Khor El Sunt is recrossed in two
El Sunt | | |branches.
| | |
Sheikh’s | ½ | 53 |Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head
village | | |Sheikh at Renk.
| | |
Village | 1½ | 54½ |Village.
| | |
_Meshra Renk_ | 1 | 55½ |Inspector’s and police houses on
| | |bank of White Nile. Headquarters
| | |of District. P.T.O.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

41.—JEBELEIN TO RENK (R.B.).

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH, 1902.

-----------+-----------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+---------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Khartoum.|
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |
| | |
_Jebelein_ | 225 | 225 |Country round Jebelein is grass
| | |with laot and kittr bush in thick
| | |patches. River here 600 yards wide
| | |(dry season), rocks showing river
| | |in places. For first mile or two
| | |after leaving Jebelein open grass
| | |plain on E. of track, kittr bush
| | |beyond. A few heglig trees between
| | |track and river.
| | |
Sherif | 2½ | 227½ |Name of spot only; this name
| | |applies to country next two miles.
| | |
Wad Nimol | 3½ | 231 |
Island | | |
| | |
Um Romad | 3½ | 234½ |End of district of this name which
| | |begins where Sherif ends.
| | |
_Maghaba_ | 1½ | 236 |District only; no inhabitants. N.
| | |end of Bulli Island begins and
| | |track along khor which forms it,
| | |water only in places in khor.
| | |
Awad El | 2½ | 238½ |Khor and small hill of this name.
Kerim | | |Road alternately good and bad from
| | |kittr bush.
| | |
Debba Goda | 3½ | 242 |J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last
| | |visible from here; Sheikhs Tomb on
| | |bare hill 50 feet high.
| | |
Debba El | 2¼ | 244¼ |Small khor; ground slightly
Ghoda | | |undulating and rising inland.
| | |
Ganus | 8½ | 252¾ |Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet
| | |above track, no inhabitants, only
| | |a name.
| | |
| | |No huts or signs of permanent
| | |habitations; a few Baggara
_Karshawal_| 9¼ | 262 |“rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.
| | |
_Old camp_ | 3½ | 265½ |Old entrenched camp about 80 yards
| | |by 30 yards on rising ground 200
| | |yards from river on right hand
| | |side of track, good meshra.
| | |
| | |Going bad on account of kittr.
| | |This is last water before reaching
Karshawal | 2 | 267½ |Agang as river makes a bend
Island | | |westwards.
| | |
_Agang_ | 13 | 280½ |Dinka villages of Nyitau and
| | |Manjak, generally called Agang.
| | |
_Renk_ | 3 | 283½ |Good meshra. Police Post.
| | |Mosquitoes here are very bad.
| | |Advisable to encamp inland near
| | |Dinka villages. Telegraph and Post
| | |office here.
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------

42.—RENK TO KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, MARCH, 1902.

[Sidenote: General.]

The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.

-----------+-----------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+---------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Khartoum.|
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |
| | |
_Renk_ | 283½ | 283½ |A meshra on the W. Nile with
| | |inspector’s house and police
| | |tukls. The road at first leads in
| | |a S.E. direction, and after 2
Khor Deleib| 2 | 285½ |miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and
| | |about 6 to 10 feet deep is
| | |crossed. Another smaller khor, a
| | |branch of Deleib, is crossed ½
| ¾ | 286¼ |mile further on. The road now runs
| | |alongside a wide khor or branch of
| | |the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The
| | |track to Gule branches off in a
| | |S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka
| | |villages are passed about a mile
| | |E. of the road (which is excellent
| | |going), and continue at intervals
| | |until after passing Sheikh Bakhit
| | |Niok’s (a released slave from
Warrit | 9 | 295¼ |Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A
| | |few Shilluk villages are passed on
| | |the island called Wad Ab Kona,
| | |formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and
| | |White Nile. This khor at High Nile
| | |is probably 300 yards to 600 yards
| | |wide, but now (March) it is
| | |nowhere more than 300 and fordable
| | |nearly everywhere. There are many
| | |wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the
| | |people are mostly Selim Baggara
| | |living in temporary encampments
| | |about a mile inland for the
| | |grazing.
| | |
_Um | 11¼ | 306½ |The encampments now cease and the
Hedeida_ | | |water in the khor gradually
| | |decreases until at Um Hedeida,
| | |water is stagnant and only in
| | |small quantities. The country on
| | |E. of track which always follows
| | |the eastern bank of khor, is
| | |covered with 3 feet high grass
| | |(where not burnt), and scattered
| | |bush and no signs of cultivation
| | |are visible.
| | |
| 3 | 309½ |Water reappears in the khor, and
| | |there are Selim encampments to the
| | |E. of the track.
| | |
_Leungtom | 3½ | 313 |At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or
or Domaia_ | | |Domaia (Arab) the Nile is
| | |approached again for the first
| | |time since Renk. About 1½ miles
| | |inland are the villages of Kolang,
| | |El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem
| | |Banga (also a released slave from
| | |Cairo). A certain amount of
| | |cultivation is visible and the
| | |country is tolerably open. Soon
| | |after leaving the meshra, the
| | |track follows the eastern bank of
| | |a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad.
| | |The Arab name for it varies with
| | |the districts it traverses. The
| | |Dinka name was not obtained. On
| | |the W. of the track is a fringe of
| | |thick talh bush, to the E. the
| | |country is fairly open.
| | |
Debba El | 4 | 317 |The first dom palms are met here.
Zawia | | |This Debba is the commencement of
| | |the Nabagaia district.
| | |
Dinka | 2½ | 319½ |A village, Anok, belonging to
village, | | |Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾
Anok | | |miles to E. on a slight elevation
| | |and thick talh bush commences on
| | |both sides of the track. This
| | |village appears to depend on the
| | |river for its water supply.
| | |
| | |The bush gradually develops into
| | |talh and heglig forest. There is
| | |good shade all along the khor and
| | |the track, as it has been
| | |throughout, is excellent; the
| | |trees along the route cause little
| | |inconvenience.
| | |
_Tereiba_ | 9 | 328½ |Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba
(Arab) | | |begins, and is marked by the
| | |reappearance of dom palms.
| | |
| 2 | 330½ |An excellent mid-day camping
| | |ground, good shade and water in
| | |the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible
| | |from near here.
| | |
Debba | 3 | 333½ |Dense forest continues until
Ibrahim | | |reaching this slight elevation
Sharak | | |(called after a man who was killed
(Arab) | | |by an elephant here), and
| | |commences again after about a mile
_El Ragal_ | — | — |of open ground, and the district
(Arab) | | |of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the
| | |khor now takes that name.
| | |
Track | 2½ | 336 |A track branches off eastwards and
leading to | | |is said to lead to a Dinka village
Kash Kash | | |or district called Kash Kash 15-20
(Arab and | | |miles from the river. There are
Dinka) | | |said to be wells there. The bush
| | |or forest after leaving Debba
| | |Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is
| | |unpleasantly thick, especially for
| | |night travelling, but here the
| | |bush ceases to cause any
| | |inconvenience.
| | |
Goz Abu | 3¾ | 339¾ |A slight elevation; a mile further
Teiba | | |on the road was left and Khor
| | |Sangeir about 100 yards wide and
Khor | ¾ | 340½ |now (March) dry, was crossed.
Sangeir or | | |
Rau | | |
| | |
| | |This khor would probably be a
| | |considerable obstacle in the
| | |rains, and would have to be
| | |crossed some distance up. After a
| | |good rainy season the people in
| | |the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which
| | |is about 15 miles further up are
| | |said to drink from it until well
| | |on into the dry season. A mile
Khor | 1 | 341½ |further on Khor Messangeir or
Messangeir | | |Mariu, or Balantega, a rather
| | |smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed
_J. Ahmed | 1 | 342½ |Agha or Biba about 300 feet above
Agha_ or | | |the plain. There are several Dinka
_Biba_ | | |and Selim Arab villages in the
| | |neighbourhood, but no one lives
| | |here during the rains. The Dinkas
| | |then retire inland and the Arabs
| | |to districts N. of the fly limit.
| | |From Ahmed Agba there is a little
| | |used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit,
| | |which is visible from the top of
| | |the Jebel, and is described as
| | |being distant two days without
| | |water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka
| | |Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him
| | |when absent. There are many dom
| | |palms around the Jebel. Water is
| | |obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed
| | |Agha, the river which here bends
| | |S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it.
| | |
Heglig or | 3 | 345½ |Is the name of the district which
Tau | | |extends for about 6 miles opposite
| | |to Gezira Wad Beiker on the
Gezira Wad | 2 | 347½ |northern end of which is a Shilluk
Beiker | | |village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit
| | |(Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the
Edor Gamoia| — | — |name of the next district.
| | |
_Marbeit_ | 2½ | 350 |
or _Shakab_| | |
| | |
| 1½ | 351½ |The road which has been skirting
| | |the branch of the Nile (about 30
| | |yards wide) for about the last 4
| | |miles now ceases to do so, and a
| | |grassy plain which at High Nile
| | |must be a swamp intervenes between
| | |it and the river.
| | |
Ial Gamus | — | — |A Shilluk village on the island.
| | |The Sheikh after whom the village
| | |is named, is a refugee from Cairo.
| | |
Kwé | 4½ | 356 |A Dinka Farikh.
| | |
Alumbul | ½ | 356½ |Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country
| | |round is fairly open, scattered
| | |kitr and naal grass. Both these
| | |villages are under the control of
| | |Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.
| | |
_Meshra | 1½ | 358 |The meshra extends for about 2
Zeraf_ | | |miles; the road skirts the river
| | |and crosses a wide, shallow khor
Farlegh | 2 | 360 |called a Farlegh or Rigl by the
Meshra | | |Arabs. It is said to come from
Zeraf or | | |near Aturuk.
Makwé | | |
| | |
_Rom | 3 | 363 |Dinka villages named Rom under
(Dinka)_ or| | |Sheikh Jok. The district is known
_Um Gursan_| | |by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the
| | |track from Renk to this point is
| | |as a rule excellent, but from here
| | |to Kaka it is generally bad,
| | |passing over very hard caked and
| | |badly cracked cotton soil.
| | |
| 2 | 365 |Fine kuk and other trees are
| | |passed. The small black fly was
| | |exceptionally bad here in the
| | |early morning and attacked the
| | |camels in swarms.
| | |
Tereiti | 4 | 369 |The district of Tereiti begins.
| | |Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the
| | |district on opposite bank.
| | |
_Meshra | 3 | 372 |Meshra Rom or Tereiti.
Rom_ or | | |
_Tereiti_ | | |
| | |
Dinka | 3 | 375 |Villages belonging to Adeir
villages, | | |Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of
Fil and | | |track, to the W. the country is
Ajak | | |more or less open with patches of
| | |bush and trees in places.
| | |
Dinka | 7 | 382 |Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad
villages, | | |Ashol.
Nakwé and | | |
Fithi | | |
| | |
Jung Yom | ¾ | 382¾ |Dinka villages under Akol. The
| | |river is now about 2 miles away,
| | |right of road.
| | |
Debba | 1¼ | 384 |Arab name for knoll on right of
Shagerat | | |point where road bends westwards
| | |and crosses a marshy (in rains)
Debeik | 2 | 386 |plain to Sheikh Akol’s village
| | |about 1 mile from river opposite
_Shagerat | — | — |Kaka, where there are many Shilluk
El Ashera_ | | |villages. The Arab name for this
or _Loing | | |marshy district is Shagerat El
Shuk_ | | |Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk.
(opposite | | |
Kaka) | | |
| | |
| | |Skirting an open marshy (in rains)
| | |plain on right and following line
| | |of trees on left, Dinka village
Ajok | 2¾ | 388¾ |named Ajok is reached. Tracks now
| | |become numerous and ill defined,
| | |and one was followed which led
| | |across an open marshy (in rains)
| | |plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of
| | |Kaka, wood station, known as
_Kaka, old | 6¼ | 405 |Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village
wood | | |is situated close to the river
station_ | | |bank.
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------

43.—RENK TO OPPOSITE KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, DECEMBER, 1902, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1903.