Chapter VII: (bahr El Ghazal.) (3)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |Marched from Rumbek on 11th
| | |February, through Runga (Jurs)
_Khor Abeir_ | 7 | 7 |S.W., then W.S.W. to wells, across
| | |Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high
| | |trees, several large mongoose at
| | |well. Halted ½ mile further on,
| | |country open and park-like.
| | |General direction S.W., country
| | |open forest and waste ground, then
| | |up steep hill into forest. Halted
| | |for ten minutes at well.
| | |
_Sheikh | 11 | 18 |On to Sheikh Kali’s, a neat
Kali’s_ | | |village, 13 houses round a tree,
| | |Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo growing
| | |all around. Water obtained from
| | |wells. Road continues S.W. and S.
| | |for one hour, and S.E. for half an
| | |hour, ground sloping S. across
| | |successive belts of bamboo, open
| | |ground, and somewhat open forest;
| | |then S. and S.W. over ridge to
| | |village of Sheikh Gol, Then S.W. 1
| | |mile across low ground. At 8
| | |miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road
| | |continues S. along deleib valley
| | |for about 11 miles—many deleib
| | |palms, open forest, some large
_Khor Gulma_ | 13 | 31 |trees—across two small khors. Past
| | |burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named
| | |Kayali on river, after 10 miles.
| | |Ground in deleib plain slopes W.
| | |to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and
| | |S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then
Sheikh Ding | 1 | 32 |smaller khor on W. of it, and
(Wakil of Gol)| | |halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2
| | |miles through thin forest and
| | |village, and on slightly S. to
_Sheikh Ri_ | 5 | 37 |village of Sheikh Ri; halted just
| | |beyond in forest. Water about a
| | |mile N.E. From here marched S.
| | |through forest, villages, and
| | |across three khors; after one hour
Sheikh Marain | 4½ | 41½ |dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of
| | |Ri), and his village (from here
| | |village of Moinyeng about 20 miles
| | |N.E.). At first ground sloping to
| | |E., but after village crossed low
| | |ridge.
| | |
| | |Continued S. 1 mile, then W. and
| | |S.W. along low ground for one and
| | |a half hours, then S. and S.E. for
| | |another one and a half hours; road
| | |continues S. for 2½ miles more,
| | |crossing low ground. Halted E. of
| | |_water_. In three places on march
| | |low ground must be marshy in
| | |rains. Continued E. for 2 miles,
| | |then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along
| | |N. of khor, ground sloping from S.
| | |to N. through forest and village,
| | |then E. for 1 mile to dura of
_Sheikh | 13½ | 55 |Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N.
Dogbei_ | | |near road, then S.E. to more dura
| | |and few houses, on through village
| | |S. to wells; halted under tree on
| | |rising ground. Then S.W. for 1
| | |mile along edge of forest, and W.
| | |for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje,
| | |then S. across low ground; here
| | |road continues S, W. and W. for 1½
| | |miles round rocky hills, along
| | |side of forest, and close to (W.
_Sheikh Kolli_| 5 | 60 |of) another khor, then strikes S.,
(deserted | | |across khor to wells, called
village) | | |village of Sheikh Kolli, but
| | |village deserted long ago.
| | |Indifferent water, but near the
| | |surface, and frequented by game.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. for 1 mile, and 2
| | |miles W. and S.W., over high open
| | |ground at first, then to left
| | |through forest, on S.W. for ½
| | |mile, passing rocky hill, right-
| | |handed, then W. for 1 mile,
| | |passing other rocky hills, left-
| | |handed, which overlook valley to
| | |W., S. and E., the highest is 80
| | |to 100 feet above ridge itself;
| | |high ground N., and on R. slopes
| | |in wooded ridges to W. and sheer
_Village of | 5 | 65 |S. Village of Abui N. and W.,
Sheikh Abui_ | | |raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at
| | |tobacco plantation. Water in holes
| | |in rocks, plentiful and excellent.
| | |From rocky ridge excellent view to
| | |W., showing successive banks of
| | |trees running S.E. to N.W., then
| | |S. and N.,. representing lines of
| | |khors and rivers, or their
| | |tributaries. Then back to two
| | |tukls of Sheikh Abui, and
| | |continued W. and S.W., passing
| | |through belt of fine trees on to
| | |village (Khartan) and across khor.
| | |From here S. and S.E., passing a
| | |patch of flat rocks through
| | |forest, then S. and S.W., up
| | |rising ground, through open
| | |forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W.
| | |for 1 mile, and then S.W. again.
| | |Continued W. and S.W.,. over high
| | |ground, at first open forest, then
| | |clump of fine trees, gradually to
| | |S., scrubby forest and much burnt.
_R. Roa_ or | 13 | 78 |Then S. down to dry khor with high
_Gell_ | | |grass, which apparently runs W.
| | |into River Roa or Gell. Water in
| | |pools to E. and W.
| | |
| | |Crossed khor S. and then S.W.
| | |After 2 miles of burnt and open
| | |forest, crossed khor running S.E.
| | |and N.W, and after 4 miles came to
| | |belt of high trees, some of the
| | |large leaf kind, here the ground
| | |becomes low and covered with high
| | |grass on R. Guide took us round N.
| | |side of it, and brought us to
| | |river more than two hours earlier
| | |than was expected. Here we found
| | |there was no road. Guide had taken
| | |wrong road, had to find way back,
| | |S.E. and E., through high grass,
| | |then along path through forest to
| | |S., and then halted for
| | |information. Could get none, went
| | |on without hamla and found spot by
| 5 | 83 |river and sent for hamla.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. and then S., along
| | |edge of forest; on the left hand
| | |river several times came close,
| | |rocky banks and pretty, plain on
| | |R. varying in breadth, according
| | |to whether spurs of high ground
| | |and forest run out into it, or
| | |whether joined by flat grassy
| | |khors; crossed several small ones
| | |on river bank, and came to a _pool
| | |in khor_; halted for 15 minutes.
| | |Continued across similar ridge of
| | |forest burnt in places, then came
| | |to another big pond in khor;
| | |direction of march still S.
| | |
| | |Moved along E. of pond and found
| | |the khor which runs from E. to W.;
| | |deep channel of water with broken
| | |muddy banks, crossed it a little
| | |higher up by filling in with grass
| | |and branches; mules and all
| | |crossed easily. From there road
| 11 | 94 |slightly W. of S., across similar
| | |ridges, crossing one broad dry
| | |khor, _halted on ridge_ 300 _yards
| | |from river_; crossed Khor-el-Said
| | |and continued across spur of hill
| | |covered with burnt forest for 3
| | |miles; direction S. and slightly
| | |W. of S., then came on khor
| | |running S. and S.E.; turned left
| | |along it and came on bend of
| | |river; rocky bed with cataract,
| | |rocks cut into long channels by
| 5 | 99 |flow of water, banks steep, high
| | |grass on far side. Had to unload
| | |animals and pass over everything
| | |by hand, river nearly bridged by
| | |rocks, but very uneven. Marched on
| | |again, going W., through high
| | |grass till meeting track after ½
| | |mile, then S. along side of ridge
| | |with spurs running down to river,
| | |sometimes small open plain near
| | |river. After another mile passed
| | |over old zeriba of Abu Samat (1½
| | |miles after crossing river). On in
| | |same direction, and struck river
| 5 | 104 |again near khor, pretty spot; then
| | |on across open low ground to
| | |another spur on which we halted.
| | |River runs S.E. from here.
| | |Continued S.W.W. into dense
| | |forest, partly burnt, no track;
| | |crossed spurs of two ridges with
| | |small sandy khors in valleys.
| | |
| | |Then marched S.W. along a ridge
| | |for one hour and a quarter; ground
| | |here slopes down E., with thick
| | |belt of tress on a hill about 3
| | |miles E., then over deep sandy
| | |khor up rocky hill. Continued S.
| | |up steep hill, view all round;
| | |high ridges covered with large
| | |trees; after 1 mile went down to
| | |valley, crossed deep rocky khor,
| | |little water in pool. Khor going
| | |W. to N.E. Continuing S., crossed
| | |valley and camped on high
| 8½ | 112½ |tableland; _water in khor below_.
| | |
| | |Marched again S., and after
| | |quarter of an hour reached a deep
| | |narrow khor; halted and cut away
| | |banks to cross animals; water in
| | |pool to E. (left). Continued S.,
| | |crossed wide grassy khor after 1
| | |mile going W. to E., then one hour
| | |over high rocky ground with tall
| | |grass; thin forest; crossed small
| | |khor (W. to E.), then low ground
| | |with tall grass and thick shrubs.
| | |Striking old track of Nyam Nyams,
| | |very indistinct, marched S. of W.
| | |for 1 mile over rising ground and
| | |through thick forest, then S.W.,
| | |passing end of deep gorge which
| | |runs E.; lost track and marched
| | |S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two
| | |small sandy khors about 50 yards
| | |apart, running parallel S.W. to
| | |N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed
| | |gorge after 1 mile, then fairly
| | |level ground, rocky. Again struck
| | |track and followed it; ground
| | |drops to the E. Continued S.W.,
| | |and after half hour crossed a wide
| | |khor, tall grass, running W. to E.
| | |Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo
| | |country, can be seen about 40
| | |miles E. of here.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. along rocky ridge,
| | |went down to Khor Mugei, water
| | |running N.E. to S.W. This khor is
| | |about 12 yards wide with tall
| | |grassy plain each side, and
| | |apparently drains hills over which
| | |I passed during the day and runs
| | |into River Leizi. Thick forest
Mount Yara, | 16½ | 129 |nearly the whole way. Mount Yara,
_Khor Mugei_ | | |a large hump-shaped mountain,
| | |covered with trees, about 2 miles
| | |across khor S.W.W. Halted here for
| | |the night. Marched in the morning
| | |S., along E. side of khor, for
| | |half hour through tall grass and
| | |few bushes, then S.S.E. for half
| | |hour, ridges to left (E.). After 4
| | |miles turned W. of S. over ridge,
| | |thickly covered with large trees,
| | |undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then
| | |down to valley, very open ground
| | |covered with burnt grass and large
| | |ant hills, with dry khor in
| | |centre; valley about 1½ miles
| | |wide, several large trees. Mts.
| | |Angaliri can be seen from here
| | |N.E. Carriers say they are near
| | |(60 miles N.E. of) Hmadi.
| | |Continuing S. struck path going
| | |S.W., followed it along valley,
| | |crossed khor, dry, and marching
_River Leizi, | 11 | 140 |through tall grass came to River
Sheikh Sango_ | | |Leizi, narrow, high banks,
| | |overhung by trees, dry at ford;
| | |crossed and entered village of
| | |Sheikh Sango (slaves of Nyam
| | |Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba,
| | |who is under Sultan Mangi. Here
| | |natives bolted; village stands on
| | |rise and fairly open ground. Tribe
| | |Homr from Babikr.
| | |
| | |Marched again and crossed khor,
| | |then over slight rise; burnt
| | |forest of young trees. Met party
_Sheikh | 10½ | 150½ |from Sheikh Agadamba; crossed khor
Agadamba_ | | |running W. to E., little water,
| | |ground drops to E., large ridge in
| | |distance S. of E., then over
| | |slight rise, small forest, and
| | |crossed small khor (W. to E.);
| | |then over spur of hill and came to
| | |wells, open ground with young lulu
| | |trees. Continued S.S.W. over steep
| | |hill covered with thick forest
| | |into valley, fairly open; crossed
| | |khor, little water, over small
| | |rise, another small khor (W. to
| | |E.), then through dense forest S.,
| | |crossing rocky khor and, turning
| | |E., entered village of Sheikh
| | |Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near
| | |Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of
| | |Yambio); passed through village
| | |and camped on Khor Reishinda
| | |beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to
| | |N.E. into River Leizi (natives
| | |inform me that River Leizi runs
| | |into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.))
| | |Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from
| | |Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E.
| | |from here, tribe Abakas, came in
| | |here and does not seem very
| | |willing to give information.
| | |Continued W. through village,
| | |houses scattered in the thick of
| | |forest, and one house cannot be
| | |seen from another.
| | |
| | |Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda
| | |(S.W. to N.E.), then over rise,
| | |young forest, dense undergrowth,
| | |slopes W. towards khor; ridges in
| | |distance (W.). Forest thickens as
| | |we advance, several small open
| | |spaces. Continuing S.W., passed
| | |old village of Sheikh Agadamba,
| | |M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi;
| | |reached Khor M’bagi, water running
| | |from W. and bends S.E. Mount
| | |M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-
| | |shaped and rocky mountain, few
| | |trees, about 100-150 feet above
| | |ridge. Continuing S., passed foot
| | |W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped
| | |and few large trees on crest,
| | |about 150 feet high; then over
| | |ridge W. of S. past dura fields,
| | |crossed rocky (granite) ridge W.
| | |of E. named Parkpe, and halted on
_B’bonga Khor | 11 | 161½ |outskirts of village B’bonga near
Zaza_ | | |Khor Zaza, rocky khor running N.E.
| | |to S.W. into River Ibba, little
| | |water in rocky pools; inhabitants
| | |of village recently moved E.;
| | |ridges of trees to E. and W.
| | |
| | |Continued S. and crossed Khor
| | |Zaza, on to ridge, thick forest
| | |continuing W. of S.; after half
| | |hour ground slopes E. to khor
| | |about 200 yards wide, thick weeds.
| | |Path runs parallel with khor, high
| | |ridges the far side(E.). Continued
| | |S.W. over high rocky ridge down to
| | |bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide
| | |here, sandy bottom, winding in
_River Ibba_ | 4 | 165½ |S.S.W. direction.
| | |
| | |Marched S.W. over ridge and came
| | |upon river again, after crossing
| | |open ground in valley. River here
| | |bends N.W.W., banks very steep,
| | |about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards
| | |wide; a swing bridge crosses river
| | |here from N. bank to a tree on S.
| | |bank. Unloaded and cut away banks
| | |to cross, as bridge does not
| | |appear very secure. Crossed and
| | |camped on S. side in hollow open
| | |plain, with cliffs about 40 feet
| | |high running parallel with and
| | |about 300 yards from river. Tall
| | |grass which I burnt before
| | |camping. Climbed cliff and
| | |obtained following view:—_i.e._,
| | |Mts. M’bagi and Umbumbamba stand
| | |out very clearly N.E., with ridges
| | |of trees running W. to E. and N.
| | |to S. River winds towards N.W.,
| | |with grassy plain on either bank,
| | |skirted on N. bank by forest, S.
| | |bank by cliff and forest. View
| | |S.E. obstructed by trees.
| | |
| | |Marched on E. along foot of cliff
| | |for 1 mile, then unloaded and
| | |climbed cliffs. Continued S.W.
| | |over ridge, young forest; after 15
| | |minutes an old deserted village of
| | |Sheikh Agadamba. Path to Yango
| | |(E.) from here; for half an hour
| | |through village, then down to Khor
| | |Bendawari, very marshy, about 200
| | |yards wide, tall weeds; then along
| | |edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour,
| | |ground rising on far side of khor
| | |(E.). Khor then bends S.W., and
| | |path turns S. across it and enters
| | |forest of large trees, lulu type,
| | |undergrowth burnt; marched through
| | |forest S.W., several open spaces;
| | |then through thin forest and down
| | |to W. over fairly open ground, and
_Khor | 7½ | 173 |crossed Khor Mungongo and camped
Mungongo, | | |on far side at 8.45 a.m. near
Sheikh Tum_ | | |village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of
| | |Mangi tribe Agbea. Went on alone
| | |to village named after Sheikh,
| | |found very little water in well,
| | |houses scattered and very thickly
| | |populated, so decided to camp at
| | |khor and await messenger. Sheikh
| | |Zumio, son of Mangi, village
| | |Mazura between Khors Korsi and
| | |Mukongo, near village (deserted)
| | |Penio—tribes Baminda and
| | |Abunangi—came in; his district
| | |runs from River Ibba, below Penio,
| | |and W. along Benza’s district;
| | |seems very intelligent, and says
| | |he is anxious to be friendly to
| | |government.
| | |
| | |Marched S.W. up slope of hill,
| | |then E. round E. side of Mts.
| | |Bandilia, high rocky mountains
| | |covered with short grass, then
| | |down W. of S. and crossed Khor
| | |Wure Mangonga; this khor flows
| | |into Khor Yur; fairly open ground
| | |at first through village, then
| | |young burnt forest. Continuing
| | |S.W. crossed Khor Tozo, open
| | |ground, marshy, then over ridge,
| | |bushy country; ground slopes E. to
| | |plain, with thick belt of trees on
| | |ridge in distance (N. to S.).
| | |
| | |Going S. over rising ground,
| | |passed Khor Mapeko with village
| | |Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N.
| | |bank. Continuing S. over rise,
| | |crossed Khor Magone, then thin
| | |trees for ten minutes, then
_Village | 8 | 181 |through telibun fields to village
Umbeyur_ | | |of Umbeyur, Headman Bgumbo. A good
| | |many banana plants here, and
| | |several patches of date palms _en
| | |route_. Camped in village. Tribes
| | |Bagmonda and Abondu, slaves of
| | |Mangi.
| | |
| | |Marched on S. through village,
| | |over rising ground fairly open,
| | |drops E. and rises to forest.
| | |After half hour crossed small Khor
| | |Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam
| | |Nyams tribes are called Abakas,
| | |also to E. and S.E. of here.
| | |Continuing S.S.W., passed deserted
| | |village of Abubunda.
| | |
| | |Turning S., path runs parallel
| | |with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor
| | |Yur Abowis—which bends sharply to
| | |W. Crossed and continued S. over
| | |rise, bushy, passed old deserted
| | |village of Badigo. Then very
| | |marshy ground, crossing Khor
| | |Umbondingani, continues marshy for
| | |some distance E., with large pools
| | |of water. Going S. over marsh,
| | |crossed Khor Mungani, ground then
| | |rises, valley to W., far bank
Harimat of | 7 | 188 |dotted with houses; harimat of
Mangi | | |Mangi. Then passing few houses,
| | |then E., S.E., and S. through thin
| | |forest, houses on either side.
| | |Ground drops W. Bananas plentiful
| | |_en route_. Continuing S.S.E. over
| | |rise, through thin forest down
| | |steep incline; crossed Khor
| | |Mabondi, dry at present, but about
| | |10 feet deep during rains, and 100
| | |yards wide, it ends about 1½ miles
| | |to E.; then up incline on far
| | |side; passed few tukls, through
| | |thin forest, young trees. Progress
| | |slow, having to cut road for
| | |transport, down slope and crossed
| | |Khor Mufeu, splendid large pool of
| | |water, excellent quality, houses
| | |close by. Then S. for five minutes
| | |and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu,
| | |over rise through thick forest,
| | |young trees; then S.E., S., and
| | |S.W., through thick belt of trees,
| | |so thick that sun did not
| | |penetrate, and was in semi
_Khor | 5 | 193 |darkness, down to Khor Masagissa
Masagissa_ | | |(runs N.W. to Mufeu), and halted
| | |near pool of water. Very open
| | |ground near khor to E. and W. Cut
| | |path through belt of trees for
| | |hamla, &c. Trees of the lulu type
| | |the whole way. Crossed khor, very
| | |marshy ground for ½ mile beyond,
| | |then S.W. over rise, ground drops
| | |E., with thick forest in distance
| | |on high ground; passed old village
| | |of Abiama, Sheikh Leguar, this has
| | |been a large compact village, some
| | |time deserted; banana, manyok,
| | |cloth, and cotton plants growing
| | |in wild confusion.
| | |
| | |Khor Makatapu runs parallel with
| | |and to E. of path bending W., path
| | |crossing it near batch of tukls of
| | |Mangi.
| | |
| | |Continuing S.S.W. through thin
| | |forest, trees close on path; cut
| | |way for hamla, reach more tukls
_Mangi’s | 4 | 197 |(deserted); camped beyond at pools
Village_ | | |of water, on open ground. Progress
| | |slow owing to thickness of trees
| | |on path. A large number of date
| | |palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia
| | |all along banks.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

[Footnote 27: This does not apply now (1904).]