Chapter VII: (bahr El Ghazal.) (2)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kossinga | — | — |Track runs due E., passing through
| | |a small village of Shat people. At
| | |5 miles, cross Sopo river at a
| | |ford, now dry (30.3.01), to
_Lambe_ | 8 | 8 |village of Lambe, also Shat under
| | |Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is
| | |an off-shoot of Shilluk tribe. The
| | |Luju khor joins the Sopo just S.
| | |of track. Marshy ground for ¼ mile
| | |from each bank of latter.
| | |
| | |Thence just S. of E. through
| | |forest, ground slightly
| | |undulating, pass well and Khor
_Khor Angejok_| 7½ | 15½ |Angejok where there is water. When
| | |pool dries, well is open. Bad
| | |going owing to elephant tracks
| | |across the khor; less than 3 miles
| | |further on, the old Government
| | |track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka
| | |is crossed, now scarcely used.
| | |
_Khor | 6½ | 22 |Water is always found in Khor
Lashirek_ | | |Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½
| | |mile S. of track in Khor Babbi;
_Khor Babbi_ | 5 | 27 |always water. Hence the track runs
| | |slightly N. of E., and is much
| | |intercepted by trees and bushes in
| | |places for the next 8 or 10 miles,
| | |then fairly open across Khors
| | |Enniar and Adda Tumia, both dry
_Khor Ayala_ | 25 | 52 |(1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala,
| | |in which there is a little water.
| | |Good track, going scarcely
| | |impeded. The well here is only
| | |opened when the pool in khor dries
| | |up.
| | |
Abuia | 16 | 68 |Ironstone surface till Shat
| | |village Abuia is reached. This is
| | |in the district of the Dinka chief
| | |Chak Chak of Chamamui.
| | |
_River Biri or| 4 | 72 |Thence to River Biri, known as
Chel_ | | |Chel here, open low ground for 1
| | |mile before reaching the river,
| | |which is 60 to 100 yards broad,
| | |sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15 feet
| | |high, very little water (2.4.01),
| | |ankle deep at the ford, which is
Chamamui | — | — |only 10 feet broad. Then up a
| | |gradual slope to high ground for ¼
| | |mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan
| | |Chak Chak (Dinka). A large village
| | |with fine situation on long hill
| | |sloping to the bank of the river.
| | |Government post here.
| | |
| | |Track goes from ford slightly E.
| | |of S. to S.E. through much dura,
| | |and then E.S.E. past several huts
| | |to Village Dambo at 2 miles and
| | |Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by
| | |Dinkas and Golos to high ground,
_Khor Alalla_ | 14 | 86 |ironstone surface to Khor Alalla
| | |or Mali where there is always
| | |water, 15 yards wide, broad banks
| | |12 feet high and very steep. This
| | |khor flows from N. of Deim Idris
| | |and empties into the Chel or Biri.
| | |
| | |Half a mile further is the village
| | |of Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak
| | |Chak.
| | |
_Well Hadid_ | 7½ | 93½ |Hence track goes S.E. pass Well
| | |Hadid and well in Khor Babbai,
_Khor Babbai_ | 4 | 97½ |where there are some huts and
| | |cultivation, now deserted.
| | |
Khor Kum | 15 | 112½ |Thence to Khor and Well Kum,
| | |latter giving very little water
| | |(Sparkes says plentiful and good,
| | |and never dry, January, 1903).
| | |Good going past ironstone ridge,
| | |Ruku 60 feet high, no view
| | |obtainable across Khor Ungu a
_Khor Ajak_ | 17½ | 130 |tributary of Khor Ajak, which
| | |latter is crossed with some
| | |difficulty in the rains, to
Khor Atta | 2 | 132 |village of Attah, close to right
| | |bank of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and
| | |Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief
| | |Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The
| | |district is called Ajak.
| | |
| | |Thence good track unimpeded S.E.
| | |to S. to the marshes of the Bongo
| | |river, with woods on right bank 3
| | |miles distant. The track skirts
| | |the marshes of the left bank,
| | |going along the high ground and
| | |fringe of the forest. Khors
| | |Dengmelah and Akweya (running into
| | |the river from W.) are crossed at
| | |5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7
| | |miles further on the track strikes
| | |E. across the marsh, ½ mile to
_River Bongo_ | — | — |Bongo river, which is crossed and
| | |goes to the village of Lang (Jur)
_Lang_ | 15 | 147 |on right bank at the edge of the
| | |forest.
| | |
_Deimgnaui_ | 7 | 154 |Thence southerly along edge of
| | |forest and swamp, across Khor
| | |Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old
| | |zeriba is now in ruins.
| | |
| | |Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages
| | |are passed, Khor Warur (with water
| | |being crossed 1 mile S. of
| | |Deimgnaui).
| | |
_Damuri_ | 13 | 167 |Track goes due S. to house of
| | |Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba
| | |and the British and Egyptian flags
| | |flying at Damuri, past more
_Bukanda_ | 5 | 172 |villages with much dura, crossing
| | |Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda
| | |a village of Baris.
| | |
| | |Thence S.E. through jungle for 12
| | |miles till the house of Sheikh
| | |Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile
_Khor Gitti_ | 16 | 188 |to Khor Gitti, which is crossed 2
| | |miles lower down; 1 mile further
| | |S.E. is the village of Sheikh
| | |Ambua Indogo, where there is much
| | |dura.
| | |
Marhu | 7 | 195 |Thence over high ground—no
| | |villages—passing ruins of old
| | |zeriba Marhu of which a few brick
| | |foundations only are visible,
| | |descending into the Jur and Dinka
| | |village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong
Nuara | 9 | 204 |and Mill respectively.
| | |
Wau Post | 6 | 210 |Thence the track is much
| | |intercepted by bushes in places to
| | |Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾
| | |mile from the zeriba.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

60.—KOSSINGA TO HOFRAT EL NAHAS.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kossinga | — | — |
| | |
_Khor Lutu_ | 3 | 3 |Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for
| | |pools. Direction S.W. Going good.
| | |
| 8 | 11 |_Small pool_—reported dry in
| | |March.
| | |
_River Ragaa_ | 5 | 16 |Good going all way to river, which
| | |is here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15
| | |feet banks—now small stream 2 feet
| | |deep. It later on joins River
| | |Boru, and finally, after junction
| | |with it, the Bahr El Arab. J.
| | |Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet
| | |high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S.
| | |
_Ragaa_ | 10 | 26 |Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed,
| | |the Faroge chief, well situated on
| | |rising ground. River Ragaa flows
| | |at foot. Good going all way from
| | |Kossinga over slightly undulating
| | |ground, with occasional rocky
| | |excrescences, not big enough to be
| | |called hills, but big enough to
| | |notice in this dead flat country.
| | |
_Membera_ | 7 | 33 |From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and
| | |is good. Scattered villages,
| | |called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and
| | |Adam.
| | |
_Khor Rakib El| 8 | 41 |Small well, always gives water,
Gamal_ | | |now (17th Feb.) pool with ample
| | |water, but drying up fast.
| | |
_Khor Ronda_ | 6½ | 47½ |Fair going through bush and scrub,
| | |crossing two dry khors and passing
| | |a pool with water 4 miles from
| | |Rakib El Gamal.
| | |
_Khor Metemma_| 3 | 50½ |Always water.
| | |
_River Boru_ | 11 | 61½ |Good going through many Lulu trees
| | |to river and village of Boru,
| | |Sheikh Futer. About largest tree
| | |yet seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some
| | |sort of acacia—in centre of
| | |village, near Sheikh’s house.
| | |River is 1¼ mile from village,
| | |very similar to Ragaa, and
| | |formidable obstacle in rains.
| | |
| 11 | 72½ |Fair going, passing through two
| | |villages to pool where there is
| | |always water. Now marching almost
| | |N. through very hilly country,
| | |gravelly soil and track like a
| | |switchback. Chain of tree-covered
| | |hill on W., called Jebel I, and on
| | |E. called Jebel Yarkar.
| | |
_Jebel I_ | 5½ | 78 |Pool, always water at foot of
| | |Jebel I.
| | |
Bashum | 12 | 90 |Fair going over up and down
| | |country, occasionally cut by
| | |elephant tracks, to village of
| | |Sheikh Bashum. People: Kreich and
| | |Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is
| | |N. limit of Musa’s people. Jebel
| | |Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W.
| | |
_Khor Dikki_ | 5 | 95 |Track lies through Umbelanda
| | |range. Direction N.N.W. Always
| | |water in Khor Dikki.
| | |
_Khor Monio_ | 6 | 101 |Always water.
| | |
_River | 6 | 107 |Always water. Nearly 100 yards
Shaliko_ | | |across; shelving banks. Runs into
| | |Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot.
| | |
_Khor Dimkano_| 4 | 111 |Track now lies W. of N.W. Always
| | |water at Dimkano, but “fly” very
| | |bad indeed.
| | |
_River Siri_ | 9 | 120 |Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide;
| | |banks 10 to 12 feet. Water always
| | |obtainable by scratching hole in
| | |sand. Runs into Bahr El Arab.
| | |
_Khor Bapa_ | 5 | 125 |Rocky khor; always water in pools.
| | |
Jebel Paya | 6 | 131 |Jebel Paya lies to E. of track;
| | |other hills on all sides. Good
| | |going, but much up and down.
| | |
_River Rikki_ | 4 | 135 |Similar to Siri, but always open
| | |water, and banks very steep. Track
| | |now N. of N.W.
| | |
_Khor Vongo_ | 7 | 142 |Always water.
| | |
_Kafikingi_ | 8 | 150 |Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad
| | |(Kreich). 200 to 250 huts;
| | |scattered, and somewhat
| | |dilapidated. Small stream ½ mile
| | |from village, always holds water
| | |and fish. Last 15 miles about N.W.
| | |
_River Adda_ | 10 | 160 |Track now to N.N.E. Good going
| | |through thick wood along main road
| | |to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80
| | |yards wide, banks 10 to 12 feet;
| | |stream running E., now but little
| | |water.
| | |
| 11 | 171 |Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles,
| | |along valley of Adda, then cross
| | |river and strike slightly W. of
| | |N., leaving all signs of a track,
| | |as old Hofrat El Nahas road is
| | |entirely obliterated, and going
| | |bad and difficult.
| | |
_Khor Gugu_ | 2½ | 173½ |Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu,
| | |where always water.
| | |
Jebel Teni | 7½ | 181 |An old well at foot of jebel, but
| | |at present choked and useless.
| | |
Khor Unwolo | 8 | 189 |Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W.
| | |
_Kafrmoya_ | 6 | 195 |Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample
| | |water. Many rhino about here.
| | |
_River | 4 | 199 |Through sites of long abandoned
Umbelacha_ | | |villages to River Umbelacha;
(Bahr El | | |guides, &c., only know it by this
Fertit) | | |name. River runs E., but little
| | |water at present; but fine stream
| | |when full, 80 to 100 yards broad,
| | |10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate
| | |rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles
| | |to E., this river joins River
| | |Adda, the two forming Bahr El
| | |Arab.
| | |
Hofrat El | 1 | 200 |Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas
Nahas | | |lie 1 mile to S. of river, consist
| | |of number of shallow pits covering
| | |½ mile square. Whole country round
| | |absolutely deserted, and no people
| | |have lived here since first rising
| | |of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad and
| | |his people—the former
| | |inhabitants—went to Kafikingi,
| | |which is now nearest village.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

61.—RAGAA TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1903.

[Sidenote: Roads.]

Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in parts.

[Sidenote: Trade goods.]

Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa.

[Sidenote: Water.]

In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles.

[Sidenote: Rivers and khors.]

In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable.

[Sidenote: Camps, &c.]

Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always.

[Sidenote: Fly.]

Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad sores succumb.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Ragaa_ | — | — |Track lies slightly W. of S., good
| | |going through thick wood to small
_Khor_ | 13 | 13 |khor where always water.
| | |
| 3½ | 16½ |Another small khor where always
| | |water; whole country slightly
| | |undulating.
| | |
J. Legai | 7 | 23½ |Bare rocky mass about 100 feet
| | |high to right of track. Other
| | |hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to
| | |E. and S.E.
| | |
| 5½ | 29 |Cross deep narrow khor, now dry,
| | |and soon after enter regular
| | |network of ridges of bare black
| | |granite called Mungiat. Track now
| | |slightly E. of S.
| | |
_J. Mungiat_ | 1½ | 30½ |Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga,
| | |under Musa Hamed. For next 4 miles
| | |track lies along narrow valley
| | |between ridges of bare granite,
| | |crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which
| | |always water, four times.
| | |
_Shobindi_ | 5½ | 36 |Scattered villages of Sheikh
| | |Shobindi, head Sheikh of all
| | |Mungiat district, an old man
| | |almost blind, under Musa Hamed.
| | |Sultan Nasser Andel also has
| | |people near here.
| | |
| 4½ | 40½ |Khor about ¼ mile to left of
| | |track, always water. Track now
| | |lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded
| | |by bushes.
| | |
_River Koko_ | 12 | 52½ |Narrow river, always water;
| | |difficult to cross even when half
| | |full. Runs into Sopo.
| | |
| 1½ | 54 |Small khor, always water.
| | |
_River Sopo_ | 9 | 63 |Bad going through thick bush, and
| | |cross a stony hill and River Sopo,
| | |50 yards wide, good deal water
| | |still and slight current. Very
| | |difficult in rains.
| | |
Guji | 12 | 75 |Beginning of Kreich villages under
| | |Sheikh Minni Bey, which are
| | |scattered over several miles.
| | |
_River Biri_ | 7 | 82 |Very similar to Sopo.
| | |
_Deim Zubeir_ | 5 | 87 |Pass two small Kreich villages and
| | |arrive Government Post of Deim
| | |Zubeir, well situated on old site,
| | |on rising ground. Khor Ujuku at
| | |foot, now almost dry; fair water
| | |got from wells. Reported healthy.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

62.—KOJALI TO TONJ.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, JULY, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Poste Arsenal | — | — |Cross from left to right bank of
or Kojali | | |Jur River, which is 150 yards
| | |wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and
| | |20 feet deep in channel, current 4
| | |miles an hour; crossing a matter
| | |of some difficulty, as have only a
| | |small Berthon boat and a dug-out;
| | |it takes some hours, but is
| | |effected without casualties.
| | |
_Kana’s_ | 5½ | 5½ |The going on right bank much
village | | |better than on left bank. There is
| | |a good track, and grass as a rule
| | |not more than waist high; on other
| | |side it was frequently 6 feet or 8
| | |feet high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a
| | |brother of Tembura’s, is well
| | |built and well kept. Kana’s
| | |“Mbanga” or private enclosure
| | |surrounded by banana trees. Cross
| | |two small khors en route. Village
| | |consists of 40 to 50 scattered
| | |huts.
| | |
Khor | 3 | 8½ |Our track now lies to N.E., and we
| | |gradually leave Jur River. Khor is
| | |12 feet wide and 3 feet deep.
| | |
| 2 | 10½ |Ravine with small khor at bottom.
| | |
Khor Sur | 7 | 17½ |Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep,
| | |runs into Jur.
| | |
_Khor Beilo_ | ½ | 18 |Small khor 2 feet deep.
| | |
| 8½ | 26½ |Marsh, but not bad crossing.
| | |
J. Hibi | 3 | 29½ |Rocky mass of sort of grey
| | |granite, site of final battle
| | |between Nyam Nyams and Bongos,
| | |which lasted 6 days, when latter
| | |were utterly defeated.
| | |
Khor Kumio | 1 | 30½ |Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6
| | |feet deep. Village of Bongos,
| | |slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond
| | |khor.
| | |
Khor | 7 | 37½ |Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18
| | |inches deep.
| | |
_Ndoruma’s | 2 | 39½ |Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another
village_ | | |brother of Tembura; it is quite
| | |new, only having been built within
| | |last few months. Very similar in
| | |size, &c., to Kana’s village, and
| | |is the extreme northern outpost of
| | |the Nyam Nyams.
| | |
| 2½ | 42 |Marsh 100 yards wide, at present
| | |only 6 feet deep; another marsh
| | |200 yards wide, but not yet bad
| | |crossing.
| | |
Village | 5½ | 47½ |Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2
| | |months ago, huts all still
| | |standing and in good order.
| | |
Khor | 11 | 58½ |Small khor, dry in winter.
| | |
Khor | 2½ | 61 |Small khor, dry in winter.
| | |
Khor Wolo | 17 | 78 |Dry in winter.
| | |
_Khor | 3½ | 81½ |More a marsh than a khor, said to
Kordabella_ | | |be never dry, much cut up by
| | |elephant tracks, and have
| | |considerable difficulty with
| | |animals in crossing.
| | |
_Khor Gutong_ | 6½ | 88 |Said to have always water running
| | |to N., and rather fancy this may
| | |be River Mulmul under another
| | |name.
| | |
_Khor Mungara_| 3 | 91 |Always contains water, more a
| | |marsh than a khor, with muddy
| | |holding bottom and cut up by
| | |elephant tracks, 100 yards wide,
| | |and have to carry loads across as
| | |laden animals fall and stick in
| | |mud.
| | |
_River Tonj_ | 15½ | 106½ |River plain here, some 3 miles
| | |wide, follow left bank, trees up
| | |to river edge on right bank. River
| | |almost full, and about 40 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
| 15½ | 122 |River here makes great bend to W.
| | |and comes up to edge of trees, the
| | |river plain now being on right
| | |bank, but this is only for a short
| | |distance, as a rule the plain is
| | |on left bank.
| | |
_Khor_ | 4 | 126 |Deep khor running from W. to
| | |river; cross by going 1½ miles to
Tonj Post | 3 | 129 | N.W.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

63—TONJ TO RUMBEK.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Tonj | — | — |Road from Tonj crosses river close
| | |to, but N. of station, and
| 3 | 3 |continues slightly N. of E to
| | |forest 3 miles, and on N. along
| 3 | 6 |edge of forest 3 miles more to
| | |where river approaches close to
| | |it. From there road E. and N.E.
| | |through forest, passing elephant
| | |swamp (dry by January) to village
_Sheikh Senug_| 11 | 17 |of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two
| | |wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba,
| | |distance 11 miles. Road from there
| | |past villages of Sheikh Bol and
| | |through forest, direction E. to
| | |_well in Khor Mahok_ under a
| | |gemmeiza tree.
| | |
_Wag Abak_ | 21½ | 38½ |Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak.
| | |No water in between, distance 21½
| | |miles. Water can be brought from
| | |village Paag, N. of wood to spot
| | |4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if
| | |word is sent beforehand. Road
| | |continues S.E. across Khor Mahok,
| | |wet in January, passing village of
| | |Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also
| | |village of Rihan.
| | |
_Gochin_ | 7 | 45½ |Hamada, interpreter, to village of
| | |Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty
| | |forts on W. bank of river Gell,
| | |distance 7 miles. On E. across
| | |river, then N.E. through village
| | |of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to
_Sheikh Jok | 6½ | 52 |village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½
Dau_ | | |miles. Pool of good water on S. of
| | |village, and post and rest house
| | |in village. Road continues across
| | |village through forest, passing
_Sheikh | 12 | 64 |corner of Khor Toj to village of
Marnal_ | | |Sheikh Marnal; wells in village
| | |and pool on E. side, 12 miles.
| | |From there road S.E. along edge of
| | |Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh
| | |Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5
| | |miles more to village of Sheikh
| | |Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor
_Khor Gulman_ | 13 | 77 |Gurman (or Gulman), where there is
| | |a bridge. From there to Khor
Khor Abeir | 9 | 86 |Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to
| | |Rumbek 9 miles more.
| | |
Rumbek | 9 | 95 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

64.—RUMBEK TO SHAMBE.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, 11TH FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |From Rumbek, road starts E. and
| | |S.E. for 6 miles to where a well
| | |has been dug out on N. of road,
| | |then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles
_Adwolians_ | 16 | 16 |to well in Adwolians. Best well at
| | |a tobacco garden.
| | |
| | |Good road through burnt villages;
| | |sandy.
| | |
| | |From Adwolian, road due E. to
| | |through village and bit of forest
| | |to edge of forest on valley of
R. Naam | 6 | 22 |Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles,
| | |and across plain and khors to edge
| | |of forest on E. 2½ miles more;
| 2½ | 24½ |going very bad, much cut up by
| | |elephants; valley requires
| | |causeway and bridging very badly;
| | |grass very high. From Naam, road
Takidur | 3 | 27½ |due E., passing burnt-out village
| | |of Takidur after 3 miles, and
| | |dried up khor called river Laik
| | |(same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles
| | |further on.
| | |
_R. Laik_ | 3 | 30½ |Close by on further side is Mera
| | |of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and
| | |Agiong, Agars, latter of Ayak, and
| | |adjoining is village of Galik. A
| | |well has been dug in khor, N. of
| | |Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up
| | |to end of December, then found in
| | |pool further N. of that well up to
| | |February, perhaps later. From here
| | |road S.E. through Galik, 20
| | |minutes, and turns E. to village
Akot | 6 | 36½ |Akot 6 miles distant.
| | |
| 2 | 38½ |Two miles more to far side of
| | |village. Road good, sandy, over
| | |high ground; water very far from
| | |surface. From Akot, road due E. to
| 3 | 41½ |pool 3 miles, which had water
| | |until 15th January, boundary of
| 2 | 43½ |Atwots and Agars; 2 miles on to
| | |
_Apiot_ | 1 | 44½ |Atwot Mera, and 1 more to village
| | |of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10
| | |good wells give water all the
| | |year. People are friendly and
| | |ready to help, but are not fond of
| | |carrying work. They are more manly
| | |and straightforward than the
| | |Agars, and I have hopes that they
| | |are not so treacherous in
| | |disposition. They carry bows and
| | |arrows as well as spears. From the
| | |fort, road is N.E., through
| | |villages of Chediop and Mogar
| | |which join each other, then
| | |through forest across deserted
| | |village of Manibin 9 miles on; to
Manibin | 9½ | 54 |pool 3 miles; then through old
| | |mudiria with _many small wells_
| 3 | 57 |which do not require much digging
| | |to keep them open all the year, 3
| 3 | 60 |miles.
| | |
| 2 | 62 |After 2 more miles valley of Lau
| | |is reached, commencing with khor
| | |and pool with water all the year.
| | |Up to here road was good, soil
| | |very sandy, small belt of forest
| | |before reaching river valley.
| | |Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or
| | |3 miles, then is composed of the
| | |usual black soil of the river
| | |valleys.
| | |
_R. Lau_ | 6 | 68 |From the pool to first branch of
| | |Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on
| | |to second and larger branch, then
| 4 | 72 |2 more on to camp at edge of
| | |forest and village Sheikh Shrun.
| | |River valley very bad, much cut up
| | |and almost impassable, even
| | |without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8
| | |khors as well as 2 branches of
| | |river to cross. Requires a good
| | |road made across valley. From Lau,
| | |road E., through villages for 3 or
| | |4 miles, then through forest N.E.
Ajak | 24 | 96 |to villages and _wells of Ajak_
| | |and Gour, total 24 miles. Road cut
| | |up much by elephants, and in
| | |places grass very high. Village of
| | |Ajak, ground very sandy and bad
| | |for marching. From Ajak, similar
| | |road N.E. to Shambe, forest all
Shambe | 20 | 116 |the way except last 2 miles, total
| | |20 miles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

NOTE.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to May.

65.—RUMBEK TO DARAGO’S AND M’VOLO.

BY CAPTAIN P. WOOD, APRIL, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |
| | |
_Khor Ronga_ | 6½ | 6½ |Half mile in width, quite dry by
| | |1st January, 1904. Good water
| | |always obtainable from deep pools
| | |in swamp at S. edge of khor. Very
| | |good track.
| | |
_Large | 11 | 17½ |Two wells close by. Fair water;
Gemmeiza_ tree| | |good supply. Track good.
at Sheikh | | |
Keli’s old | | |
village | | |
| | |
_Well_ in | 8 | 25½ |Deep well. Indifferent water—thick
shallow khor | | |and much discoloured from clayey
on right edge | | |nature of soil.
of track, half| | |
mile S. of | | |
Jati’s old | | |
house | | |
| | |
_Sheikh | 10 | 35½ |Water obtainable close at hand.
Mornyang’s_ | | |Good track.
house in | | |
Zeriba | | |
| | |
_Rihan’s | 7½ | 43 |Water obtainable close at hand.
house_ | | |
| | |
_Sheikh | 14 | 57 |Water ½ a mile distant.
Toinye’s_ | | |
| | |
_Darago’s_ | 7 | 64 |On bank of Naam river.
| | |
_J. Gurshen_ | 5 | 69 |Water from adjacent khor.
(Sheikh Mehl’s| | |
village) | | |
| | |
_S. G. Post at| 9 | 78 |Water from adjacent khor, also
Sheikh Agon’s_| | |obtainable from Naam river.
| | |
M’volo | 3 | 81 |On edge of Naam river—right
| | |bank—at rapids, encircled on land
| | |side (E.) by perpendicular high
| | |granite rocks.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

66.—M’VOLO TO KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL).

BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
M’volo | 3½ | — |Site of old Government station on
| | |left bank, no sign of it left. New
| | |station now occupied by Government
| | |troops. This is a pretty spot. The
| | |river, now a tiny stream of clear
| | |water, falls over a mass of rocks
| | |and winds through great boulders,
| | |great rocky ridges line either
| | |bank, and many deleib palms assist
| | |in the attractiveness of scene.
| | |Swarms of guinea fowl about here.
| | |
| | |Track leaves river and goes E. and
| | |passes through country more bush
| | |than wood, numerous small trees 6
| | |to 10 feet high, with light green
| | |leaves, called umduti by locals.
| | |
_Modo Village_| 2 | 2 |Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by
| | |Nyam-Nyam Sheikh Tembura less than
| | |two weeks ago, when he raided
| | |whole country. Track now to N. of
| | |E. District Leizi ends and that of
| | |Kremu begins.
| | |
_Kremu | 1½ | 3½ |One large and three small wells
Village_ and | | |here, giving ample supply of fair
District | | |water, said to be dry before rains
| | |begin, but now in large well 4½
| | |feet of water and diameter of well
| | |7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly
| | |well marked, same sort of country,
| | |few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes
_Khor Degaga_ | 15 | 18½ |up and down to plains, swamps in
| | |rains. Two khors which have now
| | |ample water (19th February, 1901),
| | |said to be dry in another month,
| | |but a permanent pool called
| | |Kulokho reported close by.
| | |
_Village_ | 1½ | 20 |Madi village, at present unnamed,
(Bufi District| | |being built to replace one burnt
begins) | | |by Nyam-Nyam raiders.
| | |
| | |Cross two khors which would cause
| | |some trouble in rains.
| | |
_Balabbi_ | 4½ | 24½ |Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in
Village | | |Bufi district.
| | |
_River Rodi or| 4 | 28½ |A very fine river when full, now
Yei_ | | |three or four separate streams,
| | |beautifully clear water 6 to 8
| | |inches deep, running through sandy
| | |bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and
| | |100 to 150 yards apart. River
| | |valley as before described, only
| | |about ½ mile wide here. Lion heard
| | |at night, but game not very
| | |plentiful. Best trade goods in
| | |Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi
| | |districts; cloth and beads, then
| | |brass, copper wire, or copper.
| | |
_Bufi_ | 2 | 30½ |A bad road for 2 miles after
| | |crossing river, then old
| | |Government station Bufi, on river
| | |edge, right bank. Earthwork and
| | |ditch about 100 yards square all
| | |that remains. Track away from
| | |river to S.E. through thick bush.
| | |
_Namusha | 2 | 32½ |Large dura patch and two fair-
District_ | | |sized villages; now in Namusha
| | |district.
| | |
| 3 | 35½ |Another dura patch and village.
| | |
_Wira_ | 3½ | 39 |Strike river again at clearing
District, late| | |lately occupied by Belgians. Trees
Belgian Post | | |grow to water’s edge on both banks
| | |about here, a pretty spot.
| | |Belgians are known to natives as
| | |Tuktuk (Askari) and Kiro as
| | |Simsim. No special name for late
| | |Belgian post; it is in Wira
| | |district.
| | |
_Dori Village_| 3½ | 42½ |Track lies E. of S., cutting off
| | |bend of river, and indifferent
| | |going over several dry khors.
| | |
_Fashitaura_ | 3 | 45½ |Still in Wira district, track been
| | |bending W. of S.
| | |
_J. Yaira_, | 1½ | 47 |A mass of black rock about 100
beginning of | | |feet high and some 300 yards long,
Tokuera | | |full of caves and used as hiding
District | | |places for natives during raids,
| | |is about ½ mile from river. Trees
| | |still to water’s edge, and the
| | |wide valleys of rivers further N.
| | |seem to have disappeared. Cross
| | |several dry khors.
| | |
| 2 | 49 |Many deleib palms near river.
| | |
_Village_ | 2 | 51 |Small village; track lying S.E.
| | |
| 1 | 52 |Through thick low scrub with no
| | |trees for about 1½ miles.
| | |
| 3 | 55 |Cross dry khor and through mass of
| | |black rocks which crop up now all
| | |along track at intervals; country
| | |much more up and down, now no
| | |longer dead flat.
| | |
Village | 2 | 57 |Pass through more scrub.
| | |
Jebel Dubbo | 3 | 60 |Two high peaks of black rock
| | |connected by ridge, track now to
| | |S.W.
| | |
_Beri-Beri | 3 | 63 |Touch river again first time for
Village_ | | |14 miles; village about ½ mile
District | | |from river, now small stream
Tokuera | | |through rocks, trees to edge both
| | |sides.
| | |
_Amadi_ | 5½ | 68½ |Old Government station, earthwork
| | |and ditch 200 yards square on
| | |river bank, good situation, and
| | |village Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka,
| | |about ¼ mile outside work and few
| | |huts inside. Cross several dry
| | |khors _en route_ to old station;
| | |country pretty, many elephant
| | |tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera
| | |district, cloth and beads. Leave
| | |River Rodi, the track for Kiro
| | |lies first to N.E., skirting round
| | |N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going bad
| | |until clear of outlying rocks,
| | |then fair villages both on E. and
| | |W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former
| | |lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams from
| | |Makarakaland. Cross two khors
| | |running from Jebel to river; many
| | |such, now dry, khors with sandy
| | |and well defined banks, lined with
| | |trees run into River Rodi, a
| | |feature entirely lacking in rivers
| | |more to N.
| | |
Khor | 9 | 77½ |Large dry khor running N. and S.;
| | |track still to N. and E.
| | |
_Mandia_ | 1 | 78½ |Sheikh Dia, large compact village
| | |with quantity dura grown round it,
| | |water in well, never dry.
| | |
_Numali | 6 | 84½ |Large village, quantity of dura
Village_ | | |round; Sheikh Waga-Lanio,
| | |intelligent man; ample water from
| | |wells, never dry. Track still to
| | |N. of E.; going good, generally
| | |bush, few large trees. One mile to
| | |E. after leaving Numali, then N.
| | |of E. again, and village Murra,
| | |Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called
| | |Bilal. One small well ½ mile past
| | |village, but gives ample water and
| | |reported never dry.
| | |
| | |Track from here lies to S. a great
| | |deal and zigzags a lot, but always
| | |trending well S. of E. Fine going
| | |through thick bush.
| | |
_Mudo_ | 10½ | 95 |Sheikh Nier Magura, one well
| | |similar to that of Murra.
| | |
Khor | 3½ | 98½ |Large khor, now dry, running N.
| | |and S. Track now about S.E.
| | |
Khor | 6 | 104½ |Another large dry khor running N.
| | |and S., with sandy bed, track
| | |still to S. of E.
| | |
Vura Village | 1 | 105½ |Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu
| | |district, people still Madis.
| | |Track from here lies to E.
| | |
Kederu | 3 | 108½ |Now dry, except for occasional
District, | | |pools; sandy bed about 70 yards
_River Tafari_| | |wide, banks 8 feet high,
| | |apparently does not overflow.
| | |Natives say water always
| | |obtainable by scraping hole few
| | |feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees
| | |line banks. Rhinoceros, elephant,
| | |buffalo, and various antelopes
| | |found near, also partridge and
| | |guinea fowl, but latter very wild.
| | |
| | |From River Tafari track lies S. of
| | |E., and about 5 miles from river
| | |we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel
| | |and proceed through wood, now open
| | |and good easy going, now thick,
| | |and bad going, cross a few dried
| | |up swamps, and pass three villages
| | |destroyed by fire.
| | |
| 25 | 133½ |Lulu trees appear again in
| | |considerable numbers.
| | |
_Nyambara | 10 | 143½ |Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara
District, | | |tribe (the Yambara of Felkin and
Metika Village| | |Junker); small newly opened well
(small well)_ | | |here, giving very limited supply
| | |of water, just sufficient for
| | |half-pint per man (45 men), but
| | |nothing for animals. Up to a few
| | |days ago people had been drinking
| | |from khors now dry. Between River
| | |Tafari and here absolutely
| | |uninhabited and at this time of
| | |the year waterless. A month ago
| | |ample water would be found in
| | |birkas and khors. In Nyambara
| | |district people now wretchedly
| | |poor and miserable, and generally
| | |bolted at our approach; huts few,
| | |small and badly built. From here
| | |track lies first to S.E., then to
| | |E. (?) through thick bush.
| | |
Golela Village| 3½ | 147 |Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking
| | |intelligent man; Nyambaras speak
| | |quite a different language to
| | |Madis, and appear a low caste of
| | |people.
| | |
_Well (fair | 2½ | 149½ |Two and half miles from village,
supply)_ | | |one well about 20 feet deep, from
| | |which about fifteen gallons can be
| | |got. Reported never to fail.
| | |
| | |Track slight N. of E., soil
| | |getting sandy barren, much thorn
| | |and scrub.
| | |
| 14 | 163½ |Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles
| | |to S. of E. Track again slightly
| | |to S. of E. and country still
| | |barren and desolate.
| | |
| 9½ | 173 |An abandoned Belgian post.
| | |
_Small well_ | ½ | 173½ |Very limited supply of water,
| | |about two gallons obtainable per
| | |hour with much difficulty.
| | |
Khor | 22 | 195½ |Large khor comes in from Bahr El
| | |Jebel.
| | |
| | |Track last 20 miles about E. and
| | |up khor country still a
| | |wilderness.
| | |
_Kiro, Belgian| 3 | 198½ |To N.E. or khor on river edge. A
Post_ | | |now dry khor bounds post to N.
| | |Post consists of extensive
| | |collection of brick built houses
| | |and huts, and has accommodation
| | |for several hundred men.
| | |Surrounded by wooden stockade.
| | |
Anglo-Egyptian| 3 | 201½ |To N. of Belgian Post on water’s
Post | | |edge, stands well above river and
| | |surrounded by trees. This post was
| | |abandoned in May, 1901.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity of water.

There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe.

67.—RUMBEK ACROSS NAAM TO AWODI.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |
| | |
| 6 | 6 |First 1½ hours E.S.E., same as
| | |Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E.
| 2 | 8 |through burnt village of Adole,
| | |and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj,
| | |then S.W. through scrubby trees
| | |and low marshy ground to khor with
| | |_pool and two wells_, 1¼ hours
| | |more. From there road S. along E.
| 4 | 12 |of khor, which has bamboo in it,
| | |for 1½ hours; cross khor, and
| | |after ½ hour reach Malit, which is
| | |close to khor, and has wells and
_Malit | 8 | 20 |pools in rains. Malit occupies a
(wells)_ | | |large extent of country, but very
| | |few houses in it. Apparently
| | |different portions of the village
| | |have their own names, such as
| | |Mabei and Mading.
| | |
_Well_ | 2 | 22 |From there road to Iyen, S.E.,
| | |cross khor again, distance 2
| | |miles; plenty of water both in
| | |khor and one well. Iyen joins
| | |villages of Ateru and Damadar,
| | |which extend from it in S.S.E.
| | |direction. The cattle mera of all
| | |these villages is called Tenit,
| | |and much difficulty is experienced
| | |in making enquiries about
| | |district, as any of the above
| | |names may be used for the
| | |district. The Jurs are close to
| | |Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading
| | |are following villages, or parts
| | |of villages, in S. direction,
| | |viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-
| | |achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho,
| | |and Rumbel (?). I have not been to
| | |them, but the above is the order
| | |of position from N. to S.
| | |
| 4 | 26 |From Ateru road to River Naam
| | |direction slightly N.E., passing
_River Naam_ | 6 | 32 |through, after 1 hour, villages of
| | |Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to
| | |the ground. Naam River reached
| | |after 3 hours, the forest
| | |approaching within 1½ hours of
| | |river. From there road E., across
| 4 | 36 |valley to forest on E. side. River
| | |here winds very much, and is close
| | |to trees on E. bank. Track across
| | |plain, rough, and in summer is
| | |entirely under water.
| | |
| | |From here southerly road was taken
| | |along edge of forest for ½ hour,
| | |then through forest extending out
| | |W. towards river; road good. After
| 5 | 41 |another ½ hour pass through burnt
| | |village of Awog. Here road turns
_Fort Ayak_ | 4 | 45 |slightly westward on to old Fort
| | |Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in
| | |good position, overlooking river,
| | |which then passes quite close
| | |underneath; level of fort about 20
| | |feet above river. Site seems very
| | |good, but natives say a great deal
| | |more rain falls than at Rumbek.
| | |Ditch and parapet still in good
| | |order; fort square shaped, sides
| 8 | 53 |about 300 by 400 yards. Road from
| | |here starts S.E., after ½ hour S.,
| | |over red sandstone, with steep
| | |descent to river, and along edge
| | |of forest S. (river here bends
| | |away to W.) to cattle mera at edge
| | |of forest, which here again juts
| | |out in point and is close to
| | |river; distance from Ayak, 2½
| 3 | 56 |hours. Half an hour further back,
| | |at re-entering angle of forest, is
| | |road, E. and then S.E., to village
| 1 | 57 |of Awao, 1 hour from river valley.
| | |From Billing, in another
| | |direction, S.E. then S., along
| | |edge of forest and close to river,
| | |with steep rocky banks, very
| | |similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak.
| | |After 1 hour from village is road
| | |to left, to village of Awao, ¼
| | |hour distant. Large village with
| | |cattle and sheep mera at S. end.
| | |(Road S., along river, continues
| | |close to edge of forest for 13
| | |more miles, to khor where cattle
| | |were captured by late Major
| | |Hunter.)
| | |
_Lam_ | 9 | 66 |From Awao road due E., over steep
| | |rocky hill, and onward over high
| 3 | 69 |ground, in places boggy, to
| | |village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of
| | |road and of Awao grows much
| | |bamboo. Lam is a small village;
| | |rain-water pools along road in
| | |summer. Village of Awodi 1 hour
| | |further on; large village
| | |extending E. and N. from above
| | |road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco
| | |plantation; about ten deep wells,
_Awodi_ | 3 | 72 |3 miles more.
| | |
| | |From here party was sent out N.E.,
| | |and found so-called River Laik,
| | |then dry; no water found even by
| 5 | 77 |digging, but I fancy the natives
| | |know where to find water. This is
| 6 | 83 |the same watercourse as the M’Buri
| | |of Feniar, on Shambe road; it is
| | |about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6
| | |miles further E. is village of
| | |Rumbel; no water found there.
| | |Probably the inhabitants during
| | |dry season migrate with their
| | |cattle to River Dok or Lau.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

68.—RUMBEK TO MANGI’S VILLAGE.

BY COL.-SERGEANT BOARDMAN, MARCH, 1903.