Chapter XXXV: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (4)
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fazogli | — | — |Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile,
| | |then keep to right and follow road
| | |leading about N.N.W. in the
| | |direction of Famaka. Gradual
| | |ascent to crest of ridge forming
| | |watershed parallel to Fazogli
| | |ridge, along which road runs.
| | |Numerous small khors run down on
| | |either side to join the river on
| | |the N., or the K. Akluli on the S.
| | |
| | |Some tukls forming part of the
| | |village of Fazogli.
| | |
Khor Mogo | ¼ | 1¼ |Road descends abruptly and crosses
| | |the Khor Mogo, and shortly
Khor Kulili | ¼ | 1½ |afterwards the Khor Kulili. Both
| | |these khors about 15 feet wide
| | |with steep rocky banks.
| | |
| | |Road now rises and crosses the
| | |outlying spurs of J. Fazogli.
| | |Extremely rough going and ground
| | |covered with large boulders and
| | |rocks. River only about 200 yards
| | |off in places, with Famaka plainly
| | |visible on opposite bank. Left
| | |bank of river here consists of
| | |perpendicular rock from 10 to 30
| | |feet high.
| | |
(Forked Roads)| 1½ | 3 |Road continues extremely hilly and
| | |difficult until third mile, where
| | |road divides, that on the right
| | |leading to Deshalu and Abu
| | |Shaneina.
| | |
| | |The road now takes a S.W.
| | |direction and descends gradually
| | |into a flat bush. Road good, and
| | |level except where it crosses
| | |khors.
| | |
Khor Annis | ¾ | 3¾ |Fifteen yards broad, high banks.
Sanganni | | |On the further side cultivation
| | |begins and continues with a few
| | |intervals of bush the whole way to
| | |Masarkum. Dura is the chief
| | |product and is of all three kinds.
| | |The crop appears to be a very fine
| | |one.
| | |
Ainyet (not | 1¼ | 5 |Road on right leading to Ainyet
visited) | | |(not visited). Said to be a large
| | |village.
| | |
Khor (?) | 1 | 6 |Small khor, 5 yards wide, low
| | |banks.
| | |
| | |For the next mile the cultivation
| | |appears to be particularly good
| | |and the bush begins and continues
| | |almost without interruption until
Ragreig | 3¾ | 9¾ |within ½ mile of Ragreig—small
Village | | |village—scattered tukls.
| | |
Khor (?) | ¼ | 10 |Much cultivation. Small khor with
| | |sandy bottom. Road follows bed for
| | |250 yards.
| | |
Ragreig | 1½ | 11½ |Straggling village on low ridge
Village | | |running N. and S., at present
| | |uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state
| | |of repair, and the whole place
| | |overgrown with grass.
| | |
Abu Gara | ¾ | 12¼ |Compact and well kept. The
| | |residence of the brother of the
| | |Mek of Fazogli.
| | |
Khor Tumat | ½ | 12¾ |Quarter mile further on through
| | |the dura fields the Khor Tumat is
| | |reached. About 200 or 300 yards
| | |broad here. Very shallow level
| | |bed, sandy. Road goes straight on,
| | |crossing it diagonally to where it
| | |is joined by the Khor Masarkum.
| | |Some pools of very dirty stagnant
_Khor | ¼ | 13 |water here. Better water to be
Masarkum_ | | |obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor
| | |Masarkum from the holes dug in the
| | |bed of the khor by the inhabitants
| | |of this place. The water also is
| | |very bad however and full of mud.
| | |
_Masarkum | ¼ | 13¼ |A fair sized village, surrounded
(Sheikh | | |by dura fields. Rest house. Sheep,
Bikori)_ | | |eggs, and milk (cows) readily
| | |obtained. There is (1900) only one
| | |cow however in the town, the
| | |remainder having been looted by
| | |Dervishes.
| | |
| | |Leaving Masarkum the road runs
| | |south-west along a ridge or
| | |plateau on the left bank of the
| | |Khor Masarkum. The ground on this
| | |side of the khor is much smoother,
| | |and there is little thorn as far
| | |as J. Burgan. On the opposite side
| | |the bush appears to be thick.
| | |There is a quantity of
| | |cultivation; dura grown to a great
| | |height and producing fine ears.
| | |All soil appears good. Several
| | |villages are visible on the north
| | |side of the road. All go by the
| | |name of Ragreig which is probably
| | |the word for the class of slaves
| | |or serfs that inhabit them. Road
| | |very good.
| | |
J. Burgan | 4¾ | 18 |A low hill south of road marks the
| | |limit of cultivation, and from
| | |this the bush is thicker, though
| | |there is little thorn, chiefly low
| | |large leaved trees, like young
| | |oaks, and thin grass.
| | |
_Khor | 1¼ | 19¼ |Khor Masarkum is crossed four
Masarkum_ (1st| | |times. It is here known as Khor
crossing) | | |Timsah. At the first crossing
| | |water still in natural pools, and
_3rd crossing_| 2¼ | 21½ |at third crossing obtainable by
| | |digging. It is about 20 feet wide,
| | |with sandy bottom, and vertical
| | |banks 12 feet high. Probably
| | |unfordable in flood.
| | |
| | |After fourth crossing a dry and
| | |waterless country is entered.
| | |Hardly any khors, and these
| | |extremely small. One patch of
| | |cultivation surrounded by a zeriba
| | |about ½ mile beyond last crossing.
| | |Otherwise thin bush and grass.
| | |Road good on the whole, but there
| | |is a good deal of loose stone.
| | |
J. Farfira | 4 | 25½ |Road runs along foot of this jebel
(Pass) | | |for some distance, and then
| | |crosses it by a pass about 200
| | |feet high. Ascent and descent
| | |rough and stony, but not very
| | |difficult for donkeys. Rest house
| | |here.
| | |
| | |Road now keeps close to the foot
| | |of J. Farfira, and keeping its
| | |original direction, leaves J.
| | |Gamella on the right.
| | |
| | |South of J. Gamella there are more
| | |traces of water, and the khors
| | |become more frequent and larger.
| | |Country undulating.
| | |
_Khor El | 8¾ | 34¼ |Khor with hard shingle bed about
Hassan_ | | |30 yards broad. High steep banks.
| | |Rest house here. Water good and
| | |plentiful, but only by digging.
| | |Tributary of the Khor Tumat
| | |flowing northwards.
| | |
| | |After crossing khor, country again
| | |flat and waterless, and covered
| | |with thin bush and grass.
| | |
J. Gami | 3½ | 37¾ |Road skirts northern spur and then
| | |runs in a south easterly direction
| | |towards centre of J. Ragreig.
| | |Ground now becomes uneven and much
| | |intersected by small khors flowing
| | |from the neighbouring hills to
| | |join Khor Shikatar. This khor
| | |rises in J. Ragreig and is at this
| | |point about 10 yards broad. Rocks
| | |and gravel in bed. Low banks.
| | |
| | |The hills comprising J. Ragreig
| | |form a horseshoe, up the central
| | |valley between the horns of which
| | |the road runs. After crossing the
| | |Khor Shikatar for the first time,
| | |the road gradually ascends a spur
| | |running down from the main or
| | |western ridge of J. Ragreig. About
| | |¼ mile further on it gradually
| | |returns to the valley, and
| | |crossing the Khor Shikatar it
| | |rises to the pass between the main
| | |peak of Ragreig and the conical
| | |peak immediately east of it.
| | |
| | |Road follows course of Khor
| | |Shikatar roughly. Ascent nowhere
| | |very steep, but rough and stony.
| | |Thick bush and trees in the
| | |valley.
| | |
J. Ragreig | 4½ | 42¼ |The pass over which the road runs
| | |is roughly 250 feet high. Nothing
| | |can be seen to the north without
| | |ascending one of the two peaks on
| | |either side, owing to trees; to
| | |the south a good view of the
| | |country can be seen, especially J.
| | |Keili, distant about 7 miles. This
| | |pass forms the boundary between
| | |Fazogli and Keili. Guides state
| | |that ridge west of road belonged
| | |to Fazogli, and that east of road
| | |to Keili. Jebel was originally
| | |inhabited, but is now deserted.
| | |Inhabitants have gone, some to
| | |Fazogli, some to Keili, forming
| | |the various Ragreig villages which
| | |are scattered about. Descent from
| | |pass on south side much steeper
| | |than ascent on north. Road zigzags
| | |at first, and then runs straight
| | |down, passing between two small
| | |jebels. Very rough and stony.
| | |Jebel on right inhabited by
| | |Ragreig people, no name
| | |obtainable.
| | |
| | |Country now very level again with
| | |slope downwards towards J. Keili.
| | |Thin bush and grass. Road good.
| | |
Khor Magansor | 2½ | 44¾ |Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High
| | |banks. No water at present.
| | |
_Khor Ofat_ | ½ | 45¼ |Twenty yards wide. Bed here full
| | |of rocks. Water plentiful. Pools
| | |still remaining, but water
| | |stagnant, and it is necessary to
| | |dig to obtain good water (Jan.
| | |1900).
| | |
| ½ | 45¾ |Cultivation now begins opposite
| | |northern extremity of J. Keili,
| | |but only in patches, which are
| | |enclosed in thorn zaribas. Chiefly
| | |dura.
| | |
| | |Road runs through centre of level
| | |ground lying between J. Keili on
| | |the right and Jebels Anguba and
| | |Fashola on the left.
| | |
| 1½ | 47¼ |Cultivation becomes continuous,
| | |extending to foot of jebels on
| | |either side of road. Large trees
| | |scattered about, especially near
_Keili_ (camp | 1 | 48¼ |jebels. Mek’s house lies at the
under J. | | |foot of J. Keili, opposite J.
Fashola) | | |Fashola.
| | |
| | |There is no regular village, as
| | |the tukls are scattered round at
| | |the foot of the hills. All the
| | |centre part of the valley is more
| | |or less under water during the
| | |rains.
| | |
| | |Rest house here. Supplies of all
| | |kinds except vegetables and fruit
| | |are plentiful. I counted one herd
| | |of 20 fine cows on first entering
| | |valley. Natives will take Egyptian
| | |money, but seem to prefer empty
| | |bottles or necklaces, soap would
| | |probably go well. Donkeys are
| | |scarce, and it is difficult to
| | |hire or buy.
| | |
| | |Road on leaving valley skirts J.
| | |Fashola closely, and then heads
| | |nearly due south for J. Kamye.
| | |
| | |Towards south and west there is a
| | |stretch of apparently unbroken
| | |flat bush to the horizon.
| | |Cultivation ceases almost
| | |directly.
| | |
Khor Gulbis | 1½ | 49¾ |Ten yards wide, said to flow into
| | |Blue Nile near Abu Shaneina.
| | |
| | |At 2 miles from Keili there is a
| | |knoll on some high ground, with a
| | |large and prominent tree, which
| | |forms a good landmark when
| | |approaching from the north.
| | |
J. Kamye | — | — |A low lying range of round-topped
| | |hills. No rock showing, grass
| | |right up to summit. Road passes
| | |through outlying spurs and knolls
| | |of this jebel on the western side.
| | |Come cultivation on northern
| | |slopes, and a great deal (chiefly
| | |dura) on the south-west.
| | |
| | |Leaving J. Kange on right, road
| | |passes through some low ground
Khor Dunga | 4 | 53¾ |covered with bamboo, probably
| | |swampy in rainy season, crossing
| | |Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.
| | |
| | |Road now crosses a succession of
| | |small khors, all running west to
| | |join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges
| | |between khors.
| | |
Khor Umburri | 3¾ | 57 |Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy
| | |bed, bush becomes thicker beyond
| | |this khor.
| | |
Khor Ahemir | 1¾ | 58¾ |Five yards wide, low banks where
| | |road crosses; joins Khor Timsah
| | |about ¾ mile further west.
| | |
_Khor Timsah_ | ¼ | 59 |Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed,
| | |steep banks; flows about due west
| | |where crossed by road, but turns
| | |north about ¼ mile further down
| | |stream. Probably joins Khor
| | |Gulbis.
| | |
| | |One large and deep pool of water
| | |at present, where road crosses,
| | |supply considerable, and fish can
| | |be caught in it; very muddy water,
| | |but appears to be good.
| | |
| | |Road becomes more level now, and
| | |fewer small khors to cross.
| | |
J (?) | 2¼ | 61¼ |Low hills, thickly covered with
| | |grass and bush.
| | |
| | |Road runs up a central spur.
| | |Ascent gradual and road fairly
| | |good. Descent on north side also
| | |along spur, but steeper; road not
| | |so good, and covered with loose
| | |stones.
| | |
Khor Gummi | 2¾ | 64 |Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.
| | |
Khor Mingil | ½ | 64½ |A small shall khor. Hills (J.
| | |Mingil) now begin on either side.
| | |Road good, no steep gradients.
| | |Bush all over the hills, very
| | |thick in the valleys, but thinner,
| | |and long grass on top.
| | |
J. Kurmuk | 3¾ | 68¼ |Gradual descent to foot of J.
| | |Kurmuk. Tukls scattered round
| | |jebel, but probably not very many
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
| | |Latter all fled at our approach,
| | |and very little information could
| | |be obtained. No water near road,
| | |but a little is said to be
| | |procurable further round jebel.
| | |Apparently nothing for sale.
| | |
| | |Road to Dul now turns off in a
| | |more easterly direction, and takes
| | |a straight course towards the
| | |jebel, which is plainly visible.
| | |Country quite flat and shallow
| | |until Khor El Dahab is reached.
| | |Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy
| | |during rains.
| | |
Khor Wirta | ½ | 68¾ |Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just
| | |after this khor a road branches
| | |off to right, which, according to
| | |the guides, is used as an
| | |alternative road to Dul in wet
| | |weather, it rejoins the main road
| | |further on.
| | |
_Khor el | 3½ | 72¼ |Twenty yards wide, banks steep,
Dahab_ | | |about 20 feet high, sandy bed.
| | |Winds very much in and out amongst
| | |these bends for some distance
| | |before actually crossing it. Good
| | |water obtainable here at present,
| | |also at a place about 200 yards
| | |before that, at which the road
| | |crosses khor. Gold found here
| | |about ¼ mile before crossing khor;
| | |there are a number of circular
| | |shaft about 3 feet in diameter,
| | |and some about as much as 20 feet
| | |deep, from which the earth is
| | |taken. This is the first important
| | |khor in the basin of the White
| | |Nile.
| | |
Khor Goshindo | 2¾ | 75 |Small khor with steep banks.
| | |
| | |Road now becomes hilly, and
| | |follows edge of high ground, the
| | |ground on the left falling away
| | |rapidly to khor in valley below.
| | |
Dul | 2¼ | 77¼ |No actual town, but a number of
| | |tukls scattered about outlying
| | |spurs of Dul, also on north side
| | |of valley, and khor, which runs
| | |down in a north-westerly direction
| | |from the hills.
| | |
| | |The natives depend entirely upon
| | |the gold which they find, and
| | |import all supplies from Gomasha.
| | |Nothing seems to be grown in this
| | |country. They are an idle and very
| | |unintelligent people, and are
| | |unwilling to be of any assistance.
| | |They seem to be genuinely afraid
| | |of the Abyssinians. Water
| | |plentiful and fairly good obtained
| | |in khor.
| | |
| | |Road now takes a southerly
| | |direction and skirts the eastern
| | |slopes of J. Dul, winding in and
| | |out amongst its spurs. Road rough
| | |in places and stony, but on the
| | |whole good. Tukls on all the high
| | |ground.
| | |
Khor Biberis | 1½ | 78¾ |Small khor with rocky bed.
| | |
Khor Adunga | ½ | 79¼ |Small shallow khor. Gold pits
| | |along banks.
| | |
Arakuba | ¼ | 79½ |A collection of a few tukls on the
| | |main jebel.
| | |
Khor Udanduk | 1¼ | 80¾ |Actual channel 5 yards wide, it
| | |has low banks, and evidently
| | |overflows its banks. Road crosses
| | |it just beyond the south-western
| | |spur of J. Dul, and heads direct
| | |for J. Mindon.
| | |
Khor Gensogala| ¼ | 81 |Five yards wide, sandy bed.
| | |
(Forked roads)| ¼ | 81¼ |Road divides; that on right going
| | |to Kirin _viâ_ Kumfo, and Jebels
| | |Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta; that on
| | |the left _viâ_ Goha, Asosa, and
| | |Fadasi.
| | |
| | |The former is a direct road, and
| | |could easily be made fairly good
| | |by clearing bamboo and levelling.
| | |It is very little used, however,
| | |and there are no villages along
| | |it. Water is somewhat scarce. The
| | |latter, as far as we went, is a
| | |very bad hilly road; but a great
| | |trade route and very much used.
| | |Probably good when once the
| | |watershed is crossed.
| | |
| — | 81¼ |Take right hand road at fork (left
| | |to Gomasha). Road crosses a number
| | |of small khors. Ground between
| | |low-lying, and would probably be
| | |mostly under water during rains. A
| | |great deal of bamboo. Road
| | |difficult to find.
| | |
_Khor Ageheni_| ¾ | 82 |Broad shallow khor with low banks
| | |and sandy bed. Road followed by us
| | |did not cross khor at this point,
| | |but took us some distance more to
| | |the west before doing so. We were
| | |without guides, however, and the
| | |road is difficult to follow.
| | |Probably we made an unnecessary
| | |detour. Plenty of water just below
| | |the surface. Natives were washing
| | |gold just below where we crossed;
| 1¼ | 83¼ |their tukls are scattered all
| | |about here.
| | |
J. Kumfo | 1¾ | 85 |Small jebels with tukls on them; a
| | |little cultivation; road passes
| | |west of them.
| | |
Khor (?) | 1 | 86 |Road passes between jebels,
| | |crossing small khor, very rough
| | |and rocky, and sides of khor
| | |steep. Road runs now along eastern
| | |slopes of hills. Very rough and
| | |covered with bamboo, which brings
| | |rate of progress of caravan down
| | |to about 2 miles per hour. From
| | |here to the camp by the small khor
| | |S. of Khor Delligi.
| | |
Khor Belligi | 1¼ | 87¼ |Twenty five yards broad, very
| | |shallow, sandy bed. No water.
| | |
_Khor_ (?) | 1 | 88¼ |Small khor with very rocky bed and
| | |difficult crossing for Hamla. Two
| | |large pools of very good water
| | |(Jan. 1900).
| | |
| | |Road continues in a south-easterly
| | |direction. Bush on both sides, but
| | |a small patch of cultivation on
| | |the right at one place.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1 | 89¼ |Road divides; take right hand
| | |branch, leading straight towards
| | |J. Beldoesu.
| | |
| 1 | 90¼ |Two small shallow khors, 15 yards
| | |wide, sandy.
| | |
_Khor_ (?) | 1¼ | 91½ |Khor 20 yards wide, a little water
| | |on digging.
| | |
J. Beldoesu | — | — |Road now keeps along western
| | |slopes of J. Beldoesu. Numerous
| | |small deep khors to cross, and
| | |ground exceedingly rough and
| | |difficult for Hamla. On leaving J.
| | |Beldoesu road improves and runs up
| | |and across valley between J.
| | |Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.
| | |
_K. Zalan_ | 5¼ | 96¾ |A large quantity of excellent
| | |water in pools in the rock. Best
| | |place for Hamla to cross is by a
| | |sandbank, just above the rock.
| | |
| | |Beyond Khor Zalan the road is
| | |fairly good, but progress of Hamla
| | |is very much hampered by the
| | |bamboo.
| | |
(Pass) | 6¼ | 103 |Road gradually ascends, and
| | |finally runs over a low and easy
| | |pass between J. Fanaoge and J.
| | |Fanagamenta. Pass about 200 feet
| | |high. Descent on south side along
| | |eastern slopes of valley. Khors
| | |are numerous and very deep, but no
| | |water. Road extremely rough and
| | |hilly.
| | |
_Khor Ahrakad_| 5¼ | 108¼ |Small khor with stony bed. A
| | |little water on digging, but
| | |supply salty and very limited.
| | |This khor is not actually crossed
| | |by the road at the point where
| | |best water is found, but lies a
| | |short distance to the east.
| | |
J. Taza | — | — |A fair sized jebel with two peaks
| | |and extremely steep sides. Road
| | |passes west of it.
| | |
Khor Lashe | ¾ | 109 |Small khor with steep banks.
| | |
| ¾ | 109¾ |Road forks; keep to right.
| | |
Khor Turus(or | ½ | 110¼ |Broad khor with stony bed.
Yander) | | |
| | |
J. Belsuri | — | — |Road now passes between J. Belsuri
| | |on left and J. Hode on right.
| | |Rather hilly and rough.
| | |
J. Hode | — | — |These hills are inhabited, and
| | |there is some cultivation.
| | |
| 1¼ | 111½ |Forked roads in open space; keep
| | |to left.
| | |
| | |In the valley, through which road
| | |now runs, there is a great deal of
| | |cultivation. Flat bush as far as
| | |the eye can reach towards south
| | |and south-west.
| | |
_Khor Gaduk_ | 3 | 114½ |Small khor with steep banks, a
| | |little muddy water still left
| | |above ground (Jan. 1900).
| | |
Agani | 1½ | 116 |A few tukls; a considerable
| | |quantity of cultivation, chiefly
| | |dura.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1 | 117 |Forked roads; keep to right.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1½ | 118½ |Forked roads—keep to left.
| | |
Khor (?) | ¼ | 118¾ |Small khor 10 yards wide—south
| | |bank steep.
| | |
Ashuli | ¼ | 119 |A few tukls surrounded by
| | |cultivation. Road turns to left
| | |and then bears round to right, and
| | |skirts the southern slopes of J.
J. Gushu | — | — |Gushu; rough in places, but good
| | |on the whole.
| | |
_Khor Shugalu_| ¾ | 119¾ |Large khor with high steep banks,
(Khor Befar) | | |sandy bed. Good water plentiful;
| | |much cultivation along banks,
| | |including onions, water-melons,
| | |&c.
| | |
| | |After crossing khor, ground rather
| | |uneven and grass and bush rather
| | |thick, until you get close to J.
| | |Kirin. Open ground along its base.
| | |
_Kirin_ | 1½ | 121¼ |Tukls scattered all round the
(Sheikh | | |jebel, but most of the big men
Hamed’s House)| | |seem to live close to this place.
| | |
| | |Open ground at base of hill, and
| | |very good place for camp at
| | |present, but might be wet during
| | |rainy season. Water taken from
| | |wells in sand about ¼ mile away,
| | |rather muddy, and of a thick white
| | |colour like milk. Supply scanty at
| | |present, and our party finally
| | |took their water from Khor
| | |Shugalu. Inhabitants most
| | |friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens,
| | |eggs, and dura in overwhelming
| | |quantities, were sent as presents.
| | |Onions and milk (goats) can be
| | |obtained, but supply is limited.
| | |
| | |People are ready to sell for gold
| | |(native, in rings), beads, soap,
| | |old bottles, tins, &c. Beads (blue
| | |or red) seem to be the chief thing
| | |required. Salt is also good. We
| | |got rid of a few fasses, but iron
| | |does not seem to be in request.
| | |Spear heads are no good. Cloth of
| | |the most brilliant colours
| | |possible would probably also go
| | |well. Sheikh Hamed has large
| | |stores of dura in tukls on the
| | |hill, and sold it to us at 3 gold
| | |rings (each worth about 45
| | |piastres) the ardeb. There is a
| | |small quantity of semsem (5 rings
| | |the ardeb) and lubia.
| | |
| | |From Kirin the road runs straight
| | |on nearly due south. Some bad
| | |rocky places, until the spurs of
| | |the mountain are all left behind,
| | |the road then level and fairly
| | |good, passing through bush of
| | |varying thickness, but with very
| | |little thorn in it, and patches of
| | |bamboo along the banks of the
| | |khors.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
133.—KIRIN TO KODOK.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, APRIL, 1903.
A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to Kodok, April, 1903.
No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than usual for extreme end of dry season.
There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make the journey in the reverse direction.
The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other reasons.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kirin | — | — |From Kirin there are several
| | |tracks leading west to the farm
| | |village belonging to Ahmed Wad
| | |Yimr.
| | |
_Khor Yabus_ | 13 | 13 |Water is obtainable at several
at junction | | |places, _vide_ Map.
with Khor | | |
Serekoli | | |
| | |
| | |The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas
| | |as Ayaya, and to the Khomas as
| | |Kizi, is a strong flowing stream
| | |40 feet wide and 1 foot deep,
| | |rocky bottom and wooded banks.
| | |Soil in neighbourhood mostly sandy
| | |and firm. Stream full of fish,
| | |which many Kirin people come to
| | |catch and dry. Fishing places do
| | |not extend more than 20 miles west
| | |of Kirin.
| | |
| | |As I had been told the Khor Yabus
| | |took a sharp bend S. after
| | |clearing the hills I chose the
| | |left bank, so as to avoid missing
| | |the turn. The ground near the khor
| | |was stony and broken by side
| | |khors, so marched well clear of
| | |stream. Ground firm and bush not
| | |thick enough to be an obstacle. If
| | |grass had not been burnt going
| | |would have been difficult.
| | |
_Khor Mia_ | 13 | 26 |Went to Yabus for water at its
| | |junction with a large khor
| | |(probably Khor Mia), coming from
| | |the Khoma mountains. The character
| | |of the Yabus had changed, and now
| | |ran over a level sandy bed, water
| | |6 inches deep, banks cotton soil,
| | |marshy and high grass jungle.
| | |Country on either side almost
| | |entirely open, but large trees by
| | |the khor. Country from this point
| | |to the beginning of Burun villages
| | |swarms with game—buffalo and
| | |elephant. Hunting parties from
| | |Kirin, with rifles, constantly
| | |about.
| | |
Khor | 5 | 31 |Kept clear of banks of khor again,
| | |which were swampy and had thick
| | |jungle in places. Country away
| | |from river open and slightly
| | |undulating.
| | |
_J. Belshingi_| 1 | 32 |Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor
and Jebel | | |passes between Jebel Belshingi on
Belatoma | | |N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A
| | |rocky outlying knoll of latter
| | |close to stream gives a fair
| | |camping ground at its base. A wide
| | |marshy khor comes from the south
| | |just before reaching this knoll.
| | |
| | |The Yabus winds round the south
| | |end of J. Belshingi and spreads
| | |out into two marshy lakes, a small
_Knoll_ | 3 | 35 |rocky knoll forming the extreme
| | |south end of J. Belshingi (though
| | |on opposite side of khor) lying
| | |between the lakes.
| | |
| | |The north bank of Yabus is wooded,
| | |but country to south is open. Bed
| | |of stream winds through wide
| | |marshy belt. Skirting the marsh,
| | |game tracks gave good going.
| | |
Village | 4 | 39 |First Burun village was deserted.
(deserted) (?)| | |Found it had been raided by Kirin
Mago | | |people two months before, and
| | |Sheikh Digga had been killed.
| | |Village had evidently been
| | |occupied since. From this village
| | |found a good track, and, after 3
| | |miles, bush became thick; many dom
| | |palms.
| | |
_N’yunka_ | 4 | 43 |N’yunka, a collection of villages
| | |among dom thickets. No men at
| | |first to be seen, but surprised
| | |some women who shortly induced men
| | |to appear. Latter very frightened
| | |at first. All armed with long
| | |bows, wooden pointed featherless
| | |arrows and generally a spear, and
| | |quite naked.
| | |
| | |A good track ran through wooded
| | |country S. of the Yabus, passing
| | |the villages of Toma, N’dinga,
| | |Bane Bugga, Ote, Onka and the
| | |villages of Sheikh Washa. At these
| | |latter crossed the Yabus, which
_Yabus | 9 | 52 |from this point turns S.W. The
crossing_ | | |Buruns could not give me any clear
| | |account of where it went to, but
| | |thought it discharged into Sobat.
| | |I believe it opens out into a
| | |swampy lake which also receives
| | |the Sonka, and part of the water
| | |from this may make its way to the
| | |Sobat near Nasser and part into
| | |the Khor Adar. When last seen
| | |there was a good flow of water.
| | |The country to S.W. appeared to be
| | |thickly wooded, and I could not
| | |ascertain to what extent it was
| | |inhabited.
| | |
| | |Track continued to be good, and
| | |passed through villages of Kanje
| | |and Loma, almost deserted owing to
| | |distance from Walu to Bangaia.
| | |
_Bangaia_ | 7 | 59 |Hafirs. The village is small and
| | |the hafirs are in a marshy
| | |overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E.
| | |of village. These Burun hafirs are
| | |generally dug in marshy spots, and
| | |sometimes are merely reservoirs,
| | |sometimes really gammams. They are
| | |carefully covered in with sticks,
| | |and grass and water is generally
| | |clean and good. At Bangaia very
| | |good and plentiful.
| | |
_Tuer_ | 3 | 62 |Small village with hafir—several
| | |deserted villages between it and
| | |Bangaia.
| | |
Beio | 5½ | 67½ |Track good, country fairly open.
| | |Small village.
| | |
Hillock | 1 | 68½ |Very small hillock with few huts.
| | |
Kyela | 2½ | 71 |Kyela is a group of several
| | |villages with wide track of
| | |cultivation. Inhabitants gone away
| | |for water.
| | |
| | |After 4 miles track ceases, and
| | |guides took us N.W., avoiding a
| | |piece of badly broken cotton soil.
| | |
_K. Yungen_ | 9 | 80 |Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A
| | |gammam with some very bad water in
| | |Khor Yungen.
| | |
_Nyeda_ | 3 | 83 |Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400
| | |people on Khor Murga (probably the
| | |same as Khor Yungen). Poor water
| | |in gammams in khor. These are 6
| | |feet deep and fill slowly; barely
| | |gave water enough for 50 animals
| | |and 50 men.
| | |
| | |From here a good number of people
| | |know a little Arabic or Dinka. The
| | |Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has
| | |been fighting with the surrounding
| | |villages.
| | |
| | |The whole district is called Dar
| | |El Imam and was under a Sheikh
| | |called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man
| | |was murdered some four years ago,
| | |and Dar El Sagia claims to be his
| | |successor, but is not recognised
| | |by most of the villages. This is
| | |about the limit of the raiding of
| | |the Beni Shangul people.
| | |
| | |Khor Murga is said to be a branch
| | |of the big khor which formed from
| | |the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and
| | |Jebel Fanagamenta, passes close to
| | |J. Jumjum under the name of Khor
| | |Tumbakh.
| | |
| | |J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa
| | |and is the southern limit of Idris
| | |Wad Regab’s influence at present.
| | |Khor Tumbakh appears to split up
| | |into branches, and one probably
| | |reaches Khor Adar near Rengachuk.
| | |
_Hafirs_ | 4 | 87 |Two good hafirs. Track bad over
| | |broken cotton soil.
| | |
Nyeda (Sh. | 8 | 95 |After passing hafirs track becomes
Tukani) camp | | |very good and goes through a
| | |number of villages whose
| | |inhabitants had gone to water.
| | |About two miles short of camp
| | |entered on a wide stretch of
| | |cultivation, cotton soil.
| | |Scattered villages. No defined
| | |khor, but probably the whole under
| | |water in the rains from overflow
| | |of Khor Tumbakh. There were many
| | |gammams, but water very bad and
| | |muddy.
| | |
_Dinko Wad | 7 | 102 |Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko
Dageig_ | | |Wad Dageig was last Burun village.
| | |It is situated in a grove of dom
| | |palms, dry sandy soil. Water from
| | |gammam 10 feet deep, plentiful and
| | |good. This village is in about 10°
| | |10′ and 30° 10′ E.
| | |
Tibn | 13 | 115 |There is no defined track west of
| | |this, but hunting parties
| | |frequently go to El Tame. Passed
| | |over open country; cotton soil,
| | |rather rough going. Passed the
| | |Debba of Tibn lying ¼ mile to
| | |right just before entering a track
| | |of park land; heglig trees.
| | |
| | |Tibn was the most outlying of the
| | |Dinka villages, but had been
| | |deserted since the beginning of
| | |the Mahdia. Water used to be
| | |stored in hafirs, but now none.
| | |
| | |A second debba was seen about four
| | |miles further W.
| | |
_El Tame_ | 10 | 125 |Heglig trees last for eight miles,
| | |and cotton soil is bad. El Tame is
| | |a marshy lake, or rather two large
| | |pools in a khor, which, however,
| | |does not appear to connect to
| | |anything.
| | |
| | |Water is plentiful, but muddy and
| | |fouled by game. There are no trees
| | |or anything to mark the position
| | |of the water except flocks of
| | |birds. Game very abundant, and
| | |both Buruns and Dinkas come to
| | |hunt. The latter are very much
| | |afraid of the Buruns.
| | |
Khor Adar | 15 | 140 |Kept S.W. for 15 miles. Cotton
| | |soil and fairly good going;
| | |country generally open with a few
| | |clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar
| | |at some feriks belonging to Sheikh
| | |Wal Awal at about the point where
| | |Captain Wilson’s reconnaissance
| | |ended. This point is about 40
| | |miles due east of Kodok. The
| | |Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok
| | |always follow the Khor Adar to
| | |Rengachuk and thence across to the
| | |Nile at Mialek, which makes a
| | |journey at least 20 miles longer
Kodok | 60 (?) | 200 |and involves several crossings of
| | (?) |the Khor Adar.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
134.—KHOR BOSUK[43], _viâ_ KHOR EINE TO GOHA.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Camp (Khor | — | — |
Bosuk) | | |
| | |
Cavalry Camp | 12 | 12 |The road runs along the foot of
(Khor Bosuk) | | |the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu; a
| | |new road now made along other side
| | |of valley and along course of
| | |stream which is much better going.
| | |
| | |From Cavalry Camp, where there is
| | |a lot of water (running in khor),
| | |the road goes up a slope up the
| | |Shanendo valley, also called
| | |Fanishuman (name of old village).
| | |The ascent up the valley is easy
| | |at first, but afterwards up steep
| | |slopes with rocks. Water is met
| | |with twice on way up—at one place
| | |a running stream. There is a bad
| | |bit of road just at this stream,
| | |difficult even to make it safe for
| | |horses and mules. For camels the
| | |road would require zigzaging and
| | |grading. There are flat places on
| | |the tops of the spurs where halts
| | |can be made.
| | |
_Khor Eine_ | 7 | 19 |From top of pass the road goes
| | |along the plateau in an easterly
| | |direction till Khor Eine is
| | |reached, where there is a flowing
| | |stream, good shade and grazing,
| | |and camping ground.
| | |
Camp at Goha | 3 | 22 |From Khor Eine good road round
| | |spur leads into Goha, about 2
| | |miles before reaching which road
| | |branches off to Asosa, going in a
| | |southerly direction. The tukls are
| | |on the foot of slope of J. Goha
| | |and also all over the top of the
| | |hill. J. Goha is a series of
| | |broken, rocky hills, and is in
| | |reality a spur projecting from the
| | |higher plateau.
| | |
| | |There is a fair amount of
| | |cultivation in patches in the open
| | |valley. There is a running stream
| | |at foot of Goha Hill on N. side,
| | |which is fed by many tributaries,
| | |most of which contain running
| | |water. There is a good camping
| | |ground across this stream on low
| | |hills facing the lower N. slopes
| | |of J. Goha, water and grazing
| | |plentiful. Supplies of dura
| | |apparently got from Asosa. There
| | |were only about 20 cattle to be
| | |seen, and no sign of any trade
| | |going on or Gallabas about. This
| | |may be due to the disturbed state
| | |of the country and the roads being
| | |closed.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A small party of cavalry
| | |marched along this road at the
| | |rate of 3 to 4 miles per hour.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
135.—GOHA, _viâ_ K. BARSU TO BOSUK.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Camp Goha | — | — |Left Camp Goha in a north-westerly
| | |direction—road leads across the
| | |plateau and crosses some khors.
| | |This is a good road and apparently
| | |much used by Gallabas, as their
| | |camping places at intervals on the
| | |khors were passed—where there is
| | |the usual pool or trickling
| | |stream. The road comes to top of
| | |pass marked 4,670 feet. From here
| | |an extensive view is obtained of
| | |Dul, J. Jerok, etc.
| | |
| | |The descent of the pass is steep,
| | |although the road is well defined.
| | |There is only one real good
| | |halting place on a spur before
| | |descending into the Barsu valley.
| | |
_K. Barsu_ | 9 | 14 |The road crosses the khor at a
| | |conspicuous Gemmeiza tree where
| | |there is water in small
| | |quantities. Further on the stream
| | |runs in places and disappears
| | |again. A good camping ground is
| | |reached a 5 hours from camp at
| | |Goha which is used by Gallabas.
| | |
Camp Khor | 8 | 22 |The road leads along the khor,
Bosuk | | |water running at intervals of 45
| | |minutes; from this point the roads
| | |separate to Dul Jerok and towards
| | |Mindok. Taking the last one khor
| | |under J. Agadi is reached—good
| | |grazing and water here, and
| | |vegetables cultivated—from here
| | |camp Bosuk is one hour and half
| | |along the broken ground at foot of
| | |slopes of the Beldoesu valley.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A small party of Cavalry
| | |marched along this route at an
| | |average rate of 2¾ miles per
| | |hour.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK[44] TO ASOSA.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Camp Khor | — | — |The road runs along the foot of
Bosuk_ | | |the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu. A
| | |new road has now been made along
| | |the other side of valley and along
| | |course of stream, which is much
| | |better going.
| | |
_Cavalry Camp | 12 | 12 |From Cavalry Camp, where there is
(Khor Bosuk)_ | | |a lot of water (running in khor).
| | |The road goes up a slope up the
| | |Shanendo valley, also called
| | |Fanishuman (name of old villages).
| | |The ascent up the valley is easy
| | |at first, afterwards up steep
| | |slopes with rocks. Water is met
| | |with twice on way up, at one place
| | |a running stream. There is a bad
| | |bit of road just at this stream,
| | |difficult even to make it safe for
| | |horses and mules. For camels the
| | |road would require zigzaging and
| | |grading. There are flat places on
| | |the top of the spurs where halts
| | |can be made.
| | |
_Khor Eine_ | 7 | 19 |From top of pass the road goes
| | |along the plateau in an easterly
| | |direction till Khor Eine is
| | |reached, where there is a flowing
| | |stream, good shade, grazing and
| | |camping ground.
| | |
| | |From Khor Eine good road round
| | |spur into Goha. About 2 miles out
| | |on this road Goha-Asosa track
| | |strikes it in a southerly
| | |direction, goes up parallel to N.
| | |slopes of Goha hills, crossing
| | |pass on to top of plateau; water-
| | |course on N. side of road, water
| | |also. Nearly at once cross a khor
| | |on top of plateau with water which
| | |flows down in direction Khor
| | |Zalan. Road rocky in few places,
| | |but on whole good. Good camp at
_Khor Afaferi_| 13 | 32 |Khor Afaferi, 13 miles.
| | |
| | |Good road crosses a marsh near
| | |Abdel Rahman Wad Khojali’s
| | |village, which is passed after 2½
| | |hours’ march. Asosa comes in view
| | |across a wide valley which takes
| | |over 1 hour to get round; a water
| | |course passed. Convenient to water
| | |here before going into Asosa, as
| | |water some distance off village.
| | |
_Asosa_ | 15 | 47 |Asosa is a collection of villages
| | |on a large spur which is part of
| | |the plateau and juts out over a
| | |valley.
| | |
| | |There are three rocky hills, all
| | |with houses on them. People
| | |prosperous and well to do. A
| | |certain amount of cultivation
| | |near, but chief cultivation near a
| | |small hill E. of Asosa. Sheikh
| | |Hamed apparently a very determined
| | |ruler and looks after his people.
| | |There is an Abyssinian post here
| | |of about 15 to 20 men.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A troop of Sudanese regular
| | |cavalry and a party of mounted
| | |irregulars marched by this route
| | |at the rate of 3 miles per hour,
| | |forced marching.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
137.—ASOSA TO KHOR BOSUK, _viâ_ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Asosa | — | — |Leaving Asosa by road to Goha and
| | |march for an hour along it. Then
| | |branch off W. and drop off plateau
| | |on to a succession of small hills,
| | |with villages, going along crest
| | |of their spurs. A few steep and
_K. Dadeferi_ | 10 | 10 |rocky places in crossing khors—to
| | |Khor Dadeferi—running stream with
| | |village above it, not much room
| | |for camp.
| | |
| | |Ascent out of khor steep to
| | |village; steep ascents and
| | |descents, passing cultivated
| | |clearings and villages (all
| | |Hamed’s).
| | |
_Khor | 8 | 18 |Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla),
Sirekoli_ | | |good running stream, pretty open
(Surgalla) | | |ground here, good camp, grass
| | |plentiful. Road now rises
| | |abruptly.
| | |
| | |Road, after rising abruptly out of
| | |valley over hill, goes W., very
| | |steep and rocky track. Apparently
| | |not been much used lately; passes
_Khor Akori_ | 6 | 24 |over low rocky hills, a constant
| | |up and down, S. of J. Fanoje and
| | |then turns N. along foot of Fanoje
| | |hills, crosses Khor Akori, water
| | |here by digging, good grass.
| | |
_Khor Zalan_ | 6 | 30 |After a mile strike Kirin road,
| | |along this to Khor Zalan; water
| | |plentiful, also grass.
| | |
_Camp Bosuk_ | 6 | 36 |Go along track for 3 miles, then
| | |strike off to W., cross khor with
| | |water into camp.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
138.—GORE TO ABWONG (ON SOBAT).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, FEBRUARY TO MARCH, 1904.
NOTE.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the driest season, _i.e._, February to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.
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The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)Chapter XXXV: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (4)
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