Chapter VIII: (kordofan) (3)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The track leaves Nahud in a
| | |northerly direction, very soon
| | |turning N.N.E. The country is
| | |fairly wooded and flat, and
| | |covered with long grass in most
| | |places.
| | |
_Abu Marega_ | 12½ | 12½ |Road still running N.N.E., passes
| | |through this village. It is
| | |inhabited by the Hamar tribe and
| | |is fair sized. Water from tebeldis
| | |but the supply is limited, melons
| | |fairly plentiful.
| | |
_Ahmed Hamdan_| 29½ | 42 |Leaving Abu Marega the track winds
| | |about, but its general direction
| | |is N.N.E. by N. Country rather
| | |undulating and fairly wooded.
| | |About 4 miles before reaching
| | |Ahmed Hamdan, one leaves the main
| | |track, which runs N.E. to Homedo,
| | |and branches off N.E., passing
| | |through wooded and undulating
| | |country.
| | |
| | |Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar
| | |village belonging to Ahmed Salam,
| | |the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water
| | |from tebeldis, which are few in
| | |number; good supply of small
| | |melons.
| | |
Wad Kitna | 6 | 48 |From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W.,
| | |country hilly and wooded. Wad
| | |Kitna, a very small Hamar village
| | |belonging to Ahmed Salam. From
| | |here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12
| | |miles W.
| | |
| | |(Returning I did not touch at this
| | |place or Ahmed Hamdan, as they are
| | |off the main road.)
| | |
Homedo | 3 | 51 |Between Wad Kitna and this the
| | |track gradually works round N.
| | |again and joins the main track
| | |close to this village. The Country
| | |is wooded but less hilly. Homedo
| | |is a small village of Hamar
| | |people. Water from tebeldis,
| | |supply scanty.
| | |
Id? | 2 | 53 |Track runs N. slightly E., and is
| | |well defined. This is a small
| | |Hamar village.
| | |
_Wad Bakhit_ | 17 | 70 |Road runs N. slightly E., through
| | |fairly wooded and slightly
| | |undulating country, passing two
| | |small Hamar villages, Mekin and
| | |Wad El Beleb, both Hamar,
| | |belonging to Abdel Rahim Bey Abu
| | |Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized
| | |Hamar village under Sheikh Ibrahim
| | |Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal.
| | |There is a very good supply of
| | |tebeldi water here.
| | |
_Bur Islam_ | 19 | 89 |Path runs N.N.E., country wooded
| | |and undulating, 4 miles from Wad
| | |Bakhit one passes a small Hamar
| | |village, Adam Ahmed, belonging to
| | |Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam also
| | |belongs, the Sheikh at the latter
| | |place being Ahmed El Kagauri. From
| | |here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are
| | |wells close to this village, but
| | |the supply of water is limited,
| | |owing to the bottom of the wells
| | |being rocky, and there are no
| | |implements to cut through it.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

90.—NAHUD TO FOGA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, OCTOBER, 1900; AND MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON,
DECEMBER, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The whole of the road runs through
| | |the Hamar country.
| | |
Bokari | 4 | 4 |Leaving the suk in a north-
| | |westerly direction the track runs
| | |through the Gowama village named
| | |Bokari.
| | |
Jebel El Kurma| 4¼ | 8¼ |Two hills W. of track; to the E.
| | |of the northernmost hill is the
| | |village of Shekaba, 80 huts.
| | |
Hella Wad | 2½ | 10¾ |A small Hamar village, 30 to 40
Munfarih | | |huts. Track continues in same
| | |direction till the Hamar village
Darglos | 6¾ | 17½ |of Darglos is reached. The country
| | |between Nahud and this village is
| | |open bush with some good trees for
| | |timber, but most of the bush
| | |consists of gnarled and twisted
| | |ebony bushes of no value. From
| | |here track trends more to W. till
Bakoda | 6½ | 24 |village Bakoda is reached. Range
| | |of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E.
| | |of latter village.
| | |
El Gubba | 10½ | 34½ |Track now runs N. to Hella El
| | |Gubba with Jebel Selako to E., and
| | |on to
| | |
Kinneir | 2¼ | 36¾ |Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.
| | |
Gemania | 1½ | 38¼ |Hella Gemania, 20 huts.
| | |
Abu Rasein | 3 | 41¼ |Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.
| | |
Hamdan Tumbel | 5½ | 46½ |Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan
| | |Tumbel, 12 huts.
| | |
Gabra | 7 | 53½ |Track runs N. to Hella Gabra (no
| | |wells exist), and Hella Zarzur,
Zarzur | 2½ | 56 |when track runs N.W. until Hella
| | |Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to
_Um Bel_ | 4½ | 60½ |W. Two wells giving a fair amount
| | |of water, and many hellas draw
| | |their supply from here.
| | |
J. Um Bel | 1½ | 62 |
| | |
Galusa | — | — |Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa,
| | |20 huts, and then on to
| | |
_Foga_ | 7¼ | 69¼ |Foga. _See_ route 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

All villages between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from tebeldi trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There is a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village, but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.

No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not more than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving the inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to the drought there is no crop of water melons.

Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good track.

91.—FOGA TO UM BADR.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, DECEMBER, 1901.

_Foga._—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a defensive post, are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine wells giving water, and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are opening more. I have taken accurate measurements of depths of wells, and the depth varies from 50 to 80 feet below the surface. Water is only found in very small quantities at present, no well being able to water more than 30 camels per diem.

In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty rainfall, these hollows are all dry.[31]

There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten to fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep many ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite bare. The feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market for them.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Foga | — | — |Leaving Foga, track bears N. to
| | |Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of
Wad Guibara | 1½ | 1½ |about thirty huts (Hamar Arabs),
| | |and then track bears N.W. through
| | |bush on Jebel El Rimr. Good going
| | |through country falling for 3½
| | |miles, when a khor is crossed;
| | |direction of drainage, N.E.
| | |
Jebel El Rimr | 5½ | 7 |Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is
| | |a range of hills running from S.W.
| | |to N.E.
| | |
Um Goz | 6 | 13½ |Track still continues through bush
| | |N.W. to Hella Um Goz, which
| | |consisted of a village of not more
| | |than fifteen huts, but which has
| | |recently been burnt by the Furs
| | |sent by Sultan Ali Dinar to punish
| | |the inhabitants, who are Kajawis.
| | |From here an excellent view of the
| | |country can be obtained for many
| | |miles.
| | |
Jebel Zeinat | 1½ | 15 |Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track
Rowaina | | |leads on to Jebel Zeinat Rowaina,
| | |but at 1½ miles I went through the
| | |bush. No track on Jebel Taradid,
| | |over country which is intersected
| | |with many small water channels
| | |(now all dry), but which in the
| | |rains would be impassable for
| | |animals. Surface, cotton soil with
| | |rank dry grass. Flow of water,
| | |N.N.E.
| | |
Jebel Taradid | 7 | 22 |Jebel Taradid, track runs N.
| | |through very broken country,
| | |ranges of low hills to W. and E.
| | |for miles.
| | |
Khor Dormaia | 4 | 26 |Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and
| | |the Wadi Melh of the Kababish and
| | |Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none
| | |of the local Arabs know the name
| | |Wadi Melh, and informed me it was
| | |far to the N. This khor, 30 to 35
| | |yards broad, takes its course from
| | |N.W. in the vicinity of J. El Ain,
| | |where there was water (December 4)
| | |in khor. There are signs of a big
| | |flood coming down in the rains
| | |(banks well wooded); current I
| | |should say very rapid, and at
| | |times impassable, flows N.E.,
| | |passes J. Habisa, and then bears
| | |N.
| | |
| | |From this point track runs N.N.E.
| | |over undulating country, and at 3½
J. El Sad | 3½ | 29½ |miles J. El Sad is passed, small
| | |watercourse passed, and from here
| 2 | 31½ |track runs N.E.
| | |
Wadi (?) | 4 | 35½ |At this point a large wadi is
| | |entered bearing S.W., and the
| | |track leads down this N.E to
| | |
_Um Badr_ | 2½ | 38 |Um Badr, which consists of a broad
| | |wadi varying in breadth up to 800
| | |yards, which is enclosed on either
| | |side by hills, and along the bed
| | |of which many hundreds of wells
| | |and waterholes have been dug in
| | |former times. Wells all filled in
| | |by rains; three wells were opened
| | |and 20 feet down no water
| | |obtained, and no sign of water
| | |visible.
| | |
| | |In years when rain is plentiful, I
| | |was informed by Arabs, water is
| | |always obtainable at this depth.
| | |Appears to be an excellent place
| | |for camels.
| | |
| | |No sign of recent habitation; but
| | |on ridges N.E. are the remains of
| | |the scene of the fight between
| | |Dervishes and the Kababish
| | |belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta
| | |Kabashi in 1887.
| | |
| | |No signs of any caravans having
| | |passed recently, and I am informed
| | |that none ever do come here owing
| | |to there being no water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

92.—BARA TO FOGA.

BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, JULY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Bara | — | — |Leaving Bara the track goes due W.
| | |over high sandy ridges; heavy
| | |going to a small village Kidaka,
| | |one well.
| | |
Kidaka | 11 | 11 |The track turns a little to the N.
| | |of W., and passing through thick
Um Asal | 4 | 15 |thorny bush leads by a small
| | |village, Um Asal, one well. Ten
_El Saata_ | 10 | 25 |miles further on is Maagla village
| | |called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep,
| | |good water, a good deal of
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Shireiga_ | 10 | 35 |A good level track passing through
| | |thick bush leading N. of W., after
| | |10 miles reaches the village of
| | |Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two
| | |miles due W. is a small village
_El Shegel | 2 | 37 |called El Shegel Gedidat, one
Gedidat_ | | |well, a good deal of cultivation.
| | |The track leads N. of W. for 7
| | |miles through thick gum forest,
| | |then ends; one now passes between
| | |three hills called Gedidat, two on
| | |the south and one on the north,
| | |through high grass for 8 miles,
| | |then meeting the track going from
| | |Shireiga to Geleit, and 11 miles
| | |on reaches village of Geleit, near
_El Geleit_ | 22 | 59 |the hill, many wells, little
| | |water.
| | |
_Masrub_ | 17 | 76 |A good track leads N.W. over open
| | |country to Masrub, little water.
| | |
Gilgil | 10 | 86 |A good track leads to Gilgil, a
| | |small village; very little water,
| | |not drinkable.
| | |
Baraeis | 10 | 96 |Due N., no track, to village of
| | |Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of
| | |W., no track, and passing south of
| | |and close to Jebel Asal and over a
| | |rolling plain, bad going. Meika,
| | |goffal, and heglig trees scattered
| | |over the plain. After 40 miles
Hofra | 40 | 136 |reach Hofra. There are three Nuba
| | |villages on the mountain, one
| | |about the centre, and two on the
| | |southern end; no wells, water bad
| | |from pools on north end of hill,
| | |no rain this year, people living
| | |on meika berries, which they grind
| | |and use in lieu of grain. Village
| | |is on top of mountain. Leaving
| | |Hofra and going due W. struck
| | |track near a rock called Mekareik
| | |Abu Gadein, 10 miles out, and
| | |after another 10 miles passed
| | |close to a rock called Sheikh El
| | |Rifa. Three miles further on the
| | |track turns due S., and after 4
| | |miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6
| | |miles further on reaches mountains
| | |called Gerawid El Askanut, said to
| | |be half way to Foga. Track now
| | |turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel
| | |Kanisa on the west and small hills
| | |to the east called Ratak, and
| | |passes 2 miles on through the
| | |hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on
| | |comes to village of Mina in Jebel
| | |Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are
| | |the wells and camp; little water
_Foga_ | 65 | 201 |and not good. Foga is a district.
| | |_Vide_ Route 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

93.—NAHUD TO EL EDDAIYA AND MUGLAD.

BY COLONEL B. MAHON, C.B., D.S.O., DECEMBER, 1901.

N.B.—_Distances approximate_.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The country round Nahud is sandy
| | |and undulating; about 5 miles all
| | |round is cleared for cultivation.
| | |There are many tebeldi trees which
| | |are used for water tanks. There is
| | |a very good supply of well water,
| | |wells from 30 to 60 feet deep.
| | |Population about 3,500, chiefly
| | |Hamar Arabs. _Vide_ also later
| | |reports.
| | |
_Hella El Sau_| 5 | 5 |Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin),
| | |no wells, but good supply of
| | |tebeldi trees. Track is very well
| | |defined, being the main road to
| | |Shakka, &c., country undulating,
| | |heavy going for camels, bush
| | |thick.
| | |
Hella El | 4 | 9 |Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.
Garaui | | |
| | |
_Hella Um | 3 | 12 |Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but
Hashaba_ | | |tebeldi trees and water melons.
| | |
| | |There are no more villages before
| | |El Eddaiya, bush thick, chiefly
| | |ebony, bad shade, track good, but
| | |heavy going for camels and
| | |slightly undulating.
| | |
Fula | 25 | 37 |There is a large fula here, but it
| | |was dry at the beginning of
| | |November, very good shade; is a
| | |good halting place.
| | |
| 10 | 47 |A broad shallow khor or valley,
| | |good shade and some tebeldi trees;
| | |after this you cross an open
| | |plateau into El Eddaiya, there is
| | |good grazing on this plateau and
| | |nice shade, a capital camping
| | |ground.
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 5 | 52 |Is a large village or collection
| | |of hellas, and has a mixed
| | |population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar
| | |(Abu Dagal), Bederia and Messeria,
| | |besides many small merchants
| | |(Jaalin, &c.). It is the starting
| | |point for merchants for Bahr El
| | |Arab, Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and
| | |Shakka.
| | |
| | |Camels are very little used S. of
| | |this.
| | |
| | |Water very plentiful and good
| | |wells from 8 to 30 feet deep;
| | |there are remains of many old
| | |gardens, and even now they
| | |cultivate onions and other
| | |vegetables.
| | |
| | |There is a small Government post
| | |held by fifty Bashibazuks.
| | |
Khor Atrun | 3½ | 55½ |Very good shade, no water but
| | |after kharif (rainy season) many
| | |fulas. The track is undulating and
| | |sandy, but broad and well defined.
| | |
_Abu Asha_ and| 4 | 59½ |Both Bederia hellas, no wells, but
Walad El Seluk| | |tebeldi trees and water melons.
| | |
_Mumu_ | 7½ | 67 |This is a district; many hellas,
| | |Homr (Felaita), Sheikh Hamed
| | |Yassin, several fulas but all dry
| | |by middle of November. No wells,
| | |some tebeldi trees, much
| | |cultivation. After the harvest is
| | |gathered and when the water in
| | |tebeldi trees is exhausted, the
| | |people move near to El Eddaiya.
| | |There are no hellas between here
| | |and Muglad, it is more or less
| | |forest.
| | |
| 6 | 73 |At this point the road branches;
| | |the main road goes on to Shakka,
| | |but take left-hand one S.S.E. to
| | |Um Hagar if you want water.
| | |
_Um Hagar_ | 8 | 81 |There are here a succession of
| | |rocky basins. All had some water,
| 1 | 82 |the one furthest S. after the
| | |rains must have been a
| | |considerable lake, and some years
| | |contains water during the whole
| | |year, but, I think, will be dry by
| | |end of December this year.
| | |
| | |The track, now very indistinct,
| | |runs W.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it
| | |rejoins main road which we left at
| | |mile 73. Country continues the
| 1½ | 83½ |same until about the 86th mile,
| | |when it becomes flat and clay
| | |soil; track good and hard going,
| | |but all forest.
| | |
Um Sidr | 14½ | 98 |Large fula. Road branches at Um
| | |Sidr; main road to Shakka S.S.W.
| | |is much best and shorter, I took
| | |the one to Um Battu, but returned
| | |by main road. Gullum now becomes
| | |common.
| | |
_Um Battu_ | 8 | 106 |Three small wells in dry bed of
| | |fula, 8 feet deep. These wells
| | |could easily be improved, but are
| | |not now to be depended on after
| | |15th December. This, like all the
| | |following places, was once a
| | |village. Country all bush and
| | |very little shade except at these
| | |fulas, where there are splendid
| | |ardeib trees.
| | |
Um Gamadi | 15 | 121 |A dry fula and was an old village.
| | |
Um Gamadi | 3 | 124 |Also called Um Gamadi.
| | |
Um Kantor | 6 | 130 |Dry fula, there was an old village
| | |here at some time.
| | |
Um Gedir | 11½ | 141½ |Dry fula; very fine ardeib trees
| | |here.
| | |
Um Malis | 4½ | 146 |Dry fula, same as above.
| | |
Khor El Heggis| 2 | 148 |Northern boundary of Muglad
| | |district; very small khor, but
| | |thickly wooded.
| | |
| 1 | 149 |Road branches, take right-hand one
| | |S.S.W., the other (main track)
| | |S.S.E. is one of the many tracks
| | |to the Bahr El Arab.
| | |
Um Shanga | 1 | 150 |There is water here in khor and
| | |some tebeldi trees (but not filled
| | |with water), but this year water
| | |would be dry by end of December.
| | |
| 3½ | 153½ |No track for 3½ miles W. through
| | |very bushy country, then strike
Hella Ereiga | 1½ | 155 |path N.N.W. to Hella Ereiga. From
| | |here you strike a well-defined
| | |path to Moghrabi.
| | |
| 4 | 159 |Track branches S.W., main track S.
| | |to Jange, take right-hand one S.W.
| | |
Hella Moghrabi| 5 | 164 |This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of
| | |the Homr, lives.
| | |
_Um Moghrabi_ | 2½ | 166½ |Large fula, plenty of water.
| | |
_Um Uerst_ | 2½ | 169 |Large fula and lots of good water.
| | |But none of these fulas (or
| | |rahads, as they call them) can be
| | |relied on after end of December.
| | |
| | |There is another road from El
| | |Eddaiya further W., it is no
| | |longer, but goes through very
| | |thick forest, impassable for
| | |camels, but there are some wells
| | |on this road, and it is used in
| | |the dry weather.
| | |
Muglad | — | — |Is a district about 50 miles
| | |square, two days easy from Shakka
| | |and two days from Bahr El Arab.
| | |
| | |There are many feriks, but no
| | |permanent villages; the people all
| | |go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the
| | |water gets scarce and the harvest
| | |is collected. They store grain on
| | |the tops of trees for consumption
| | |and seed when they return in the
| | |rainy season. Population all Homr
| | |(Ageira), there are many Rizeigat
| | |and a few Maalia when I was there,
| | |but they have returned to Shakka.
| | |There is lots of gum in the
| | |district, but they do not collect
| | |it. Wells can be made at 10 feet,
| | |but they make none. I only saw one
| | |well (at Um Ardeib). The people
| | |are lazy and poor, but they have
| | |large herds of cattle and sheep.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

94—FOGA TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, AND
KORDOFAN-DARFUR.

BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, JANUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Foga | — | — |_Vide_ Route 28.
| | |
J. Kajaserrug | — | — |This hill is now deserted. There
| | |is a broad track running from J.
| | |El Hella (Darfur), _viâ_ J.
| | |Adashir into Kaja. This was
| | |chiefly used, I think, for looted
| | |cattle. J. Zerga holds water in
| | |the rocks, and there is a khor
| | |running, roughly, E. and W., with
| | |tebeldi trees, which were filled
| | |in the rains. They were still full
| | |in January. J. Zumkhor has traces
| | |of a wall and brick houses, said
| | |to have been built by the Fungs.
| | |Also traces of old wells in the
| | |wadi. The bricks are good and
| | |well-burnt. There are similar
| | |buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of
| | |Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib,
| | |E. of Foga.
| | |
J. Zerga Mima | 9 | 9 |These villages are built on a bare
| | |sandy ridge and grow dukhn only.
Gilatt | 4 | 13 |Two miles from Gamania the path
| | |joins road from Foga to Damjamad,
Gamania | 3 | 16 |which latter is a district,
| | |including 4 villages of the same
| | |name. These people go to Um Shanga
| | |when the water supply fails.
| | |
_Damjamad_ | 14 | 30 |A fair path, after passing small
| | |village of Dunur, goes through
| | |some thick thorn, and in about 8
| | |miles descends into Wadi Zernak.
_Zernak_ | 15 | 45 |This wadi is full of tebeldi trees
| | |and may be noted as a base in case
| | |of trouble with Darfur. The trees
| | |would hold a very large amount of
| | |water, but, of course, would have
| | |to be filled by hand at the proper
| | |time.
| | |
Hemir Sibil | 15½ | 60½ |Six miles from Zernak the road
| | |quits the tebeldi forest and goes
| | |over undulating ridges to Hemir
| | |Sibil, which depends entirely on
| | |melons. There is a good deal of
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Tom Wad | 11½ | 72 |A small village dependent chiefly
| | |on melons.
| | |
Zarug Dagmar | 7½ | 79½ |Fair sized village growing a good
| | |supply of dukhn.
| | |
Lingu | 9½ | 89 |This district is known as Zalatta,
| | |from a rock which holds rain
| | |water.
| | |
Edam | 3 | 92 |Small village.
| | |
Gurab | 7½ | 99½ |Small village, deserted early, as
| | |melons were scarce. Ridges end and
| | |country becomes flat with trees
| | |and grass.
| | |
Um Reida | 8½ | 108 |Large village with many tebeldis
| | |and melons enough to last till
| | |next rains. This is in district
| | |called Ghabeish.
| | |
| | |Good track all the way to El
| | |Odaiya.
| | |
Gad el Habub | 8½ | 116½ |Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi
| | |trees.
| | |
Wad Domai | 3½ | 120 |Village.
| | |
Abd el Hai | 3½ | 123½ | „
| | |
_Sharafa_ | 3½ | 127 |Large Gowama village. Water from
| | |tebeldis and from Ogr; a “Hafir”
| | |or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to
| | |10 feet deep, 2 miles south. It
| | |holds water until about January.
| | |
| | |There is no bad bush from here to
| | |El Eddaiya. Good going.
| | |
| | |Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El
| | |Ogr to Darfur.
| | |
Gabralla | 9 | 138 |Small village of people from
| | |Bornu.
| | |
Gariban | 6 | 144 |Small Hamar village. Main roads
| | |from Taweisha and Shakka come in
| | |here.
| | |
Um Sedeir | 7½ | 151½ | }
| | | }
Wad Dunga | 7 | 158½ | }
| | | }
Tamba | 9½ | 168 | } All small Hamar villages.
| | | }
Sabi | 12 | 180 | }
| | | }
Aris | 7½ | 187½ | }
| | |
Wad Dau el | 5 | 192½ |
Beit | | |
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 12 | 204½ |_Vide_ previous routes.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

95.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD).

BY CAPTAIN E. G. MEYRICKE, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |The road goes off almost due W.,
| | |and runs over an undulating plain,
| | |at first open and covered with
| | |dura cultivation, and then covered
| | |with small and thorny shrubs.
| | |There are several villages to
| | |right and left of road. Village
| | |here consisting of about 60 tukls.
| | |From here the road goes straight
_Um Doma_ | 12 | 12 |to Jebel Abu Sinun. The water here
| | |is obtained from tebeldi trees,
| | |and there are some large fulas
| | |some distance away, one of which
| | |was not dry in December, although
| | |there had been little rain (1903).
| | |Four miles further on one arrives
| | |at a large fula; it contained no
| | |water in December. This road now
| | |passes El Abiad, where water is
| | |obtained from a few tebeldis and
| | |from distant fulas.
| | |
_Monzuka_ | 8¾ | 20¾ |Monzuka is reached, a small
| | |village, water obtained from
| | |tebeldi trees in small quantities,
| | |and about 2 miles further on we
| | |came to the remains of a village
| | |which was formerly called Um
| | |Banda. The nature of the country,
| | |throughout undulating, is a sandy
| | |plain covered with thorny bushes
_Um Sumaima_ | 21¼ | 42 |(not dense) and a few trees, and
| | |it remains so until at mile 42 one
| | |arrives at Um Sumaima, where there
| | |are tukls and people.
| | |
| | |There are many fulas on both sides
| | |of Um Sumaima. The tebeldi trees
| | |give only a very limited supply of
| | |water, but I was told there was a
| | |village named Nethrea not far off
| | |in a southerly direction, where
| | |there was more than one well.
| | |After leaving Um Sumaima the road
| | |passes many fulas and khors, now
| | |quite dry. The bush becomes a
| | |little thicker and there are many
| | |more trees, but there is no
| | |difficulty in clearing. About 7½
| | |miles from Um Sumaima you see
| | |traces of the old telegraph line
| | |in the shape of the bases of iron
| | |poles, one or two of which are
| | |still standing, but the majority
| | |are lying along the road. Trees
| | |are now numerous, and one reaches
| | |Dudia at mile 58. There are many
| | |tebeldi trees here, but there is
Dudia | 16 | 58 |no one living here now.
| | |
Huoi | 13¼ | 71¼ |The trees are more numerous and
| | |the bush thicker here. Huoi like
| | |Dudia has many tebeldi trees, and
| | |there is a big fula, but there was
| | |no water in December. There is no
| | |village here now and no people.
| | |
_Merkab_ | 22 | 93¼ |Continuing, the road passes
| | |Merkab, a village started this
| | |year (1903). Here there are many
| | |tebeldi trees and about 10 tukls.
| | |Chickens may be obtained here, but
| | |only, say, two at a time. The road
| | |here runs through a network of
| | |thorny, though small, trees, a
| | |good bit higher than a man on a
| | |camel, and it would be unpleasant
| | |travelling by night.
| | |
Manwissa | 9 | 102¼ |The thorny trees end before
| | |arrival at Manwissa, where there
| | |is a village, and the country is
| | |now covered with scattered trees
| | |and thin bush.
| | |
_Um Farigh_ | 5½ | 107¾ |Manwissa, Um Farigh, and Goda are
| | |in a district called Sheikh El
_Goda_ | 2½ | 110¼ |Dud. All round here there are
| | |dukhn crops; water is obtained
| | |from tebeldi trees. These villages
| | |are small ones. Goda contains
Sudda | 4 | 114¼ |about 60 tukls, while 4 miles from
| | |Goda, Sudda, a small village, is
| | |reached, the face of the country
| | |remaining unchanged.
| | |
Abu Dagal | 1 | 115¼ |Abu Dagal is reached shortly
| | |afterwards, and after ascending an
| | |elevation on which the trees are
| | |much more numerous, the road
_Nahud_ | 15½ | 130¾ |descends to Nahud. Water is
| | |obtained from wells, but some of
| | |it has very acid properties. This
| | |town is about the same size and of
| | |the same population as El Obeid.
| | |The country all round is open.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

96.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD, _viâ_ ABU ZABBAT.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL AND OCTOBER, 1900, AND CAPTAIN
C. H. TOWNSEND, 1901 AND 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |The S.W. road is taken. Good
| | |track, little bush. Plenty of
| | |grazing. Country slightly
| | |undulating. Sandy soil.
| | |
Abu Haraz | 25 | 25 |Small village. Wells in the khor.
| | |Pools of water last till end of
| | |October. There are some in the old
| | |town and some in the khor. Latter
| | |are best. Good shade. Leaving the
| | |village the bush becomes thicker,
| | |but there is a good track.
| | |
_Um Geiga_ | 7 | 32 |One bad well situated on the side
| | |of a wide khor. A mile down this
| | |khor is Um Gurus. Here there are
| | |three wells which generally
| | |contain enough water for 30
| | |camels. The sand in the khor is
| | |very soft. Leaving Um Geiga the
| | |track ascends at first. Bush
| | |thick, many tebeldi trees about.
| | |
Khor Sulfan | 10 | 42 |A wide shallow khor. Bush very
| | |thick. This khor should be crossed
| | |by daylight if possible. The track
| | |now becomes good, and the bush,
| | |though thick, does not interfere
| | |with transport.
| | |
El Saata | 18½ | 60½ |A ruined Hamar village. Many
| | |tebeldis about, some of which have
| | |been used for storing water. Old
| | |wells.
| | |
| | |The country now becomes nearly
| | |level, and is covered with ebony
| | |trees. Good shade when in leaf,
| | |but none in the hot weather. White
| | |ants swarm.
| | |
_Um Galb_ | 22 | 82½ |A small village on the edge of a
| | |swamp. The village and wells are 1
| | |mile to the S. of the road. Water
| | |plentiful. The track now passes
| | |along a ridge of red sand.
| | |
_Abu Zabbat_ | 6 | 88½ |A Hamar and Bederia village on the
| | |sandy hill. To the S. is a large
| | |swamp in which are the wells, 25
| | |to 30 feet deep. Water usually
| | |plentiful. Much dura cultivation.
| | |Small suk. Many cattle, sheep, and
| | |goats. Good rest house.
| | |
| | |It is very difficult to find one’s
| | |way out of the village, and a
| | |local guide should be taken until
| | |the main road is reached, as
| | |tracks lead in all directions. The
| | |track bears N.W.
| | |
Um Dugran | 5 | 93½ |A small village; much cultivation
| | |about, chiefly dukhn. The track
| | |crosses several khors, but none
| | |are bad.
| | |
J. Howawag | 32 | 125½ |A low hill on the S. side of the
| | |road.
| | |
Um Regulti | 6 | 131½ |A small Hamar village, only
| | |occupied during the rains. No
| | |well. There is a good deal of
| | |hashab bush about. Further on arad
| | |trees are met, they have no
| | |thorns.
| | |
Um Genglit | 8 | 139½ |A similar village to Um Regulti.
| | |
J. Wad Abu | 4 | 143½ |A few low hills to the N. of the
Agala | | |track.
| | |
_Nahud_ | 10½ | 154 |For description, _see_ Routes 19,
| | |30, and Vol. I, Chap. VIII.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

97.—EL OBEID TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL, 1900; AND CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND,
E. SURREY REGIMENT, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |For route El Obeid to Sungikai,
| | |_vide_ Route 17.
| | |
_Sungikai_ | 72 | 72 |The track, which is good, leaves
| | |the wells in a south-westerly
| | |direction. The country is fairly
| | |level, but much cut up by khors.
| | |Low rocky hills are seen on all
| | |sides. The bush on both sides is
| | |thick, but horses can move without
| | |much difficulty. Many of the
| | |hills, now deserted, show signs of
| | |former Nuba occupants.
| | |
_J. Kudr_ | 16½ | 88½ |A Nuba village on the hill. Water
| | |on the hill and in a well at the
| | |foot. The track now winds between
| | |many hills.
| | |
_J. Saboi_ | 7½ | 96 |Nearly due W. of J. Kudr. A Nuba
| | |village on the hill. Three wells
| | |and some pools. No supplies were
| | |obtainable. The bush becomes thick
| | |in places.
| | |
_J. Kasha_ | 14 | 110 |Large Nuba village on the hill. A
| | |plentiful supply of indifferent
| | |water from wells, about one mile
| | |from the village. The inhabitants
| | |are fairly well off and some of
| | |them go to the suk at Abu Zabbat.
| | |The men carry spears and rifles;
| | |they have a number of the latter.
| | |
_J. Shifr_ | 6½ | 116½ |A Nuba hill. Water plentiful in
| | |wells in the khor on the N. side
| | |of hill, and has much improved.
| | |Good camp. The bush continues bad
| | |all the way to Kubgr.
| | |
_El Sinut_ | 21 | 137½ |A depression of black soil. On the
| | |borders are many Messeria camps.
| | |In the rains the depression is a
| | |swamp, covered with long grass and
| | |ambach. Sunt trees abound. There
| | |are many wells about 40 feet deep,
| | |which are used in summer. There is
| | |a small market. During the rains
| | |the people wander off to places
| | |where there are rain pools and
| | |cultivate.
| | |
_El Seneita_ | 9 | 146½ |The track runs S.W., leaving the
| | |village to the N., and a swamp,
| | |similar to El Sinut, containing
| | |the wells, to the S. The village
| | |is on high ground and on sandy
| | |soil. Track leads S.S.W. through
| | |very thick bush.
| | |
_Toto_ | 17½ | 164 |A swamp, similar to El Sinut. Many
| | |wells 30 to 40 feet deep, giving a
| | |plentiful supply of water. Good
| | |shade, some gullum. Many Messeria
| | |camps about. Bush thick and the
| | |cotton soil much cracked in
| | |places. The track now turns N.W.
| | |for two miles and then W. Some
| | |cultivation is passed belonging to
| | |a small Messeria village, Ardeb by
| | |name, which lies to the N. of the
| | |track.
| | |
_J. Kubgr_ | 17 | 181 |There are many wells on the N.
| | |side of the hill, though only two
| | |on the S. side. From here the
| | |following jebels are visible, they
| | |are all close and under Mek Abu
| | |Dugal of Kubgr:—J. Shenshal, J.
| | |Abu Gerein, J. Umbosha, and J.
| | |Seigo. To the N. of the hill, and
| | |about two miles from it, is a Beni
| | |Fadl village named Shallo. The
| | |people drink from J. Kubgr. There
| | |is a direct road from Kubgr, _viâ_
| | |Shallo, to Nahud.
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 30 | 211 |A collection of villages, all
| | |under an Omda, Safi Negm El Din,
| | |by name. The main village, which
| | |is the largest, is close to the
| | |wells, which are numerous and lie
| | |in a depression, and give a
| | |plentiful supply of water at a
| | |depth of from 10 to 30 feet, small
| | |hand-wheels being used to draw it
| | |up. There are many good gardens
| | |here and, at certain seasons, a
| | |plentiful supply of vegetables is
| | |obtainable. The population is very
| | |mixed, there being Homr, Hamar,
| | |Messeria, Bederia, also some
| | |Dongolawis and Jaalin. The Homr
| | |belong chiefly to the Felaita
| | |section, and they have several
| | |villages, the chief of these being
| | |Mumu, about 12 miles W. of El
| | |Eddaiya. There is a Bashibazuk
| | |post of 50 men here, and a small
| | |market. This is the starting point
| | |for the Bahr El Arab, Dar Jangé,
| | |Dar Fertit, and Shakka. Traders
| | |going S. and W. from here proceed
| | |on donkeys and cattle, camels
| | |being little used.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

98.—EL OBEID TO KERAIA (J. TAGALE), _viâ_ JEBEL DAIER.

BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, THE KING’S SHROPSHIRE LIGHT
INFANTRY, AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, JANUARY, 1900;
WITH ADDITIONS FROM EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY’S REPORTS IN 1901.

There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on this road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El Rahad. The country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to camels as soon as the rains commence.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |Leaving the Mudiria, there is a
| | |good track over level ground to
| | |the S. end of J. Deigo. Bush never
| | |thick, but after the rains the
| | |going is bad in places.
| | |
J. Deigo | 8 | 8 |Small fula at S. end. Water does
| | |not last after November. Track now
| | |turns nearly S. and bush becomes
| | |thicker. Several large deep khors.
| | |J. Kordofan on W. of track. There
| | |is a pool on top of northern peak
| | |which lasts till April (_i.e._, in
| | |1901).
| | |
J. El Sofaia | 10 | 18 |Left to E. of track; bush bad and
| | |continuous, so to El Rahad.
| | |
_J. Um | 2 | 20 |On W. of track. There is a crack
Dubabat_ or | | |in the rock near the road which
_El Ein_ | | |always contains water, said to
| | |come from a spring, but by the hot
| | |weather water becomes somewhat
| | |foul. The country is flat, bush
| | |thick, and there are several deep
| | |khors.
| | |
Arab cemetery | 12 | 32 |By the side of a khor.
| | |
Khor Um | 10 | 42 |A broad, shallow khor, which must
Dagergur | | |be very swampy in the rains.
| | |
_El Rahad_ | 5½ | 47½ |Near the lake the road divides in
| | |two. That to the E. leads to the
| | |villages of Sheikh Adam Maznuk, a
| | |Gowama. The villages are large and
| | |have a small market. The lake is
| | |about 2 miles wide and 5 miles
| | |long. When it is dry (as it was in
| | |January, 1900) wells are dug in
| | |the bottom.
| | |
Regela | 5 | 47 |The road to the W. is the main
| | |track and passes through Regela,
| | |and near the remains of one of
| | |Hick’s forts. Several large khors
| | |are crossed.
| | |
_Khor Abu | 9½ | 56½ |Is 50 feet wide and 2 feet deep,
Habl_ | | |but the banks are flooded in the
| | |rains, and it is said to be
| | |impassable at times.
| | |
_Egeria_ (in | 4 | 60½ |A Dabab village, situated in a
Jebel Daier) | | |khor in J. Daier. The entrance
| | |closed by high stone walls—now
| | |broken—near the khor. Three
| | |hellas, and a small market. Wells
| | |in the khor, inside the wall.
| | |Plenty of water.
| | |
| | |Leaving the village the track
| | |crosses several khors; bush thick
| | |and between high hills.
| | |
_Kitra_ | 4 | 64½ |A small village buried in the
| | |hills. The entrance is between
| | |rocks hardly wide enough for a
| | |loaded camel. Gowamas and Nubas.
| | |Wells inside the village.
| | |Cultivation: dura on plain
| | |outside.
| | |
| | |Moving near the foot of the hills
| | |the bush continues thick.
| | |
_Sitra_ | 5½ | 70 |A village built on the side of the
| | |hills. Good wells with more than
| | |enough water for 100 camels. J.
| | |Daier is now left, and the track
| | |bears E.S.E. over level country,
| | |much cut up by khors, many of
| | |which are 10 feet deep. The bush
| | |is very thick in places. J. Tagale
| | |is seen ahead.
| | |
_Kodi_ | 24½ | 94½ |After crossing several low hills
| | |and some cultivation, Kodi is
| | |reached. The village is on the top
| | |of a hill which commands an
| | |excellent view in all directions.
| | |The wells are in a khor S. of the
| | |village, but large parties of
| | |animals have to go to a pool 5
| | |miles S. W., where 100 camels
| | |watered without any effect on the
| | |supply. The track there is very
| | |bad, being over a rocky path
| | |through bush.
| | |
| | |The road continues to be much
| | |broken by khors. It goes between
| | |high hills and through bad bush,
| | |and 9 miles on becomes so bad that
| | |it is necessary to dismount and
| | |lead the camels for ½ mile.
| | |
_Morat_ | 16 | 110½ |A small Nuba village buried in the
| | |hills. One bad well with little
| | |water. J. Abu Dom is seen to the
| | |E.
| | |
| | |Path crosses many khors and
| | |wanders about through thick bush;
| | |Senadre and Julia are left to the
| | |W. Khor Julia, 20 feet deep, with
| | |steep banks, has to be crossed.
| | |
Ruri | 11 | 121½ |The track now ascends some 200
| | |feet over sheet rock and then
| | |descends among boulders. This took
| | |200 camels an hour and a half to
| | |cross.
| | |
Duris | 1 | 122½ |A small hella on the side of the
| | |hill.
| | |
| | |On descending on to the plain the
| | |track passes over level country
| | |covered with thick bush. It bears
| | |almost due S., and suddenly turns
| | |W. into a large cove, the entrance
| | |to which is between narrow rocks.
| | |There is a good camping ground
| | |inside and fair wells. The village
_Keraia_ (J. | 2½ | 125 |and market is up the hill. Keraia
Tagale) | | |is a large place. Mek Geili has a
| | |large and well-built house there.
| | |There are also springs of water
| | |near the top of the hill. The
| | |camels, however, had to be sent to
| | |some wells in a big khor 7 miles
| | |further S., as these springs only
| | |give enough water for the
| | |inhabitants.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

99.—KERAIA TO RASHAD, AND THENCE TO J. GEDIR.

AS FAR AS RASHAD, BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD,
JANUARY, 1900; REMAINDER BY EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY, MARCH, 1902.