Chapter IX: (north-Western Sudan.) (1)

* * * * *

106.—SELIMA TO NILE OPPOSITE KOSHA.

BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Selima | — | — |Track to river bears at first at
| | |152°, and after ascending out of
| | |valley turns, and, bearing to
| | |point on road 3 miles away, where
| | |the trees of Selima are last
| | |sighted, is 118° (Magnetic). On
| | |top of rise, 6 miles out from
| | |well, a pair of hills are sighted
| | |on horizon, at bearing of 124°
| | |(Magnetic), which are close to the
| | |track and about half way to river.
| | |These twin hills of conical shape
| | |must not be confused with another
| | |pair lying about 80° or 90°. Track
| | |diverges northwards slightly, and
| | |runs at bearing of 119° to a
| | |conspicuous and isolated peak;
| | |best route lies close to the N. of
| | |this peak. Country flat; a sandy
| | |plain, with few land marks.
| | |
First halt | 38½ | 38½ |Halted after going 2 miles past
| | |twin peaks.
| | |
| | |The regular track to the river
| | |goes to Sagiet El Abd, and runs to
| | |S. of a mass of black rocky hills
| | |lying in the centre of a sandy
| | |plain. These hills are spoken of
River Nile, | 41 | 79½ |as Jebel El Tult. I marched to the
opposite to | | |N. of these hills, and struck the
Kosha | | |river opposite to Ginnis, the land
| | |mark being the hill marked Jebel
| | |Hamra on Kosha sheet. General
| | |direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I
| | |am told, the mountain to march on
| | |when going to Sagiet El Abd.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

107.—DONGOLA TO LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).

BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, DECEMBER 16 TO DECEMBER 31, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola | — | — |From Dongola the route lies nearly
| | |due W. to Um Hellal; the chief
| | |landmark is Jebel Nosab. After
| | |leaving Nosab there is a bad bit
| | |of going, entailing about ½ hour’s
| | |walking, descending into valley
| | |containing the wells. Camels can
| | |trot the rest of the way.
| | |
_Um Hellal | 20 | 20 |Is good sweet water; the water
Well_ | | |lies about 9 feet from the
| | |surface; plenty of grazing for
| | |camels. About seven families live
| | |here through the winter, and it is
| | |possible to get goat’s milk and a
| | |few eggs and dates. A ruined
| | |fort, probably 100 years old,
| | |with a well in the yard (water 12
| | |feet from surface) is about ¾ mile
| | |away; it is called El Gab, and
| | |the whole oasis seems to take its
| | |name from it. Um Hellal is also
| | |called Gab El Tahtani.
| | |
_El Sawani_ | 3 | 23 |El Sawani has three wells close
| | |together. A number of sunt trees
| | |give very good shade. There are
| | |more date palms and it is a better
| | |camping-ground than either Shemsi
| | |or Um Hellal. Water is good, and
| | |about 10 feet from the surface;
| | |the wells are in constant use.
| | |About eleven families live here
| | |through the winter, considerably
| | |more during the summer.
| | |
_Gawit_ | — | — |Water reported near surface and
| | |easily obtained; good browsing,
| | |very little shade; all dom palms
| | |burnt by dervishes.
| | |
_Shemsi_ | 10 | 33 |Water near surface, in clay soil
| | |and plentiful; one pan sufficient
| | |for my party (twenty camels and
| | |eighteen men) taking water for 4
| | |days. Two or three good shady
| | |clumps of trees and plenty of
| | |browsing for camels. It would be
| | |difficult to pitch tents owing to
| | |deep sand. The landmark for Shemsi
| | |is Jebel Bowarib, which is a
| | |double hill of two small peaks of
| | |black volcanic rock, standing
| | |solitary about 3 miles N.W.
| | |
_Butta_ | — | — |I did not visit the well, as all
| | |the guides agreed the water was
| | |brackish and bad; the landmark
| | |from Shemsi is a low round hill,
| | |thus, nearly covered with yellow
| | |sand, distinctive, as surrounding
| | |hills are peaked and black rocky
| | |hills. There are apparently about
| | |five hills surrounding the water
| | |pans, each called Jebel Butta.
| | |
Jebel Fantoria| 9 | 42 |About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi;
| | |stands out well, and can be seen
| | |at a long distance. Charles
| | |Neufeld was captured by the
| | |dervishes close to this hill.
| | |
| | |Between Selem (18½ miles from
| | |Shemsi), where there are some
| | |bushes, and Lagia there is nothing
| | |for camels to feed on, and forage
| | |must be carried. I did not see the
| | |track of any living thing, either
| | |when going or on return. There are
Jebel Abiad | 56 | 98 |no special names for any hills
| | |except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of
| | |a chalk range, which ends in an
| | |abrupt cliff and can be seen at a
| | |long distance.
| | |
El Gir | 36 | 134 |There was reported to be water
| | |last year. We dug a well to depth
| | |of 7 feet, without result. The
| | |Arabs state the country is more
| | |dried up this year than it has
| | |been since the date of the battle
| | |of Toski.
| | |
_Lagia Amran_ | 19½ | 153½ |Lagia the Less, also called Lagia
| | |Amran, from the colour of the
| | |ground, lies in a plain about 8
| | |miles long by 5 miles wide,
| | |surrounded entirely by rocky
| | |hills; there are only two
| | |entrances through encircling hills
| | |that are easy marching. Water lies
| | |within a foot of the surface, and
| | |is very plentiful. Ground consists
| | |of red clay with drifts of sand;
| | |the Arabs say there was formerly
| | |no sand, and that during last few
| | |years it is gradually covering
| | |ground, probably owing to dry
| | |seasons.
| | |
| | |My party dug a water pan out of
| | |the clay (3½ feet deep and 12 feet
| | |circumference). It was quite full
| | |of good water, with a certain
| | |amount of clay in solution, which
| | |settled on standing, on our return
| | |2 days later. Without this pan
| | |there was a plentiful supply of
| | |water from older diggings which
| | |the camel-men cleared of sand.
| | |There are some bushes and small
| | |trees, about ½ mile from the
| | |water, which afford feeding for
| | |camels. We also found water about
| | |½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
| | |
_Lagia Kebir_ | 12½ | 166 |Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six
| | |pans of water; good and near the
| | |surface, springing from similar
| | |soil to Lagia the Less, but not so
| | |abundant. We dug for water in
| | |three likely places, about ¼ mile
| | |to the W., without result. The
| | |wells lie in an open plain; no
| | |vegetation near, except about six
| | |to ten small trees about 3½ miles
| | |to W. giving a little feeding for
| | |camels. To the N. the plain is
| | |shut in by a steep rocky ridge of
| | |hills, and the road to Selima
| | |Wells lies across it; on reaching
| | |summit of ridge there is only a
| | |stretch of rock and stones to be
| | |seen. Arabs state it is the road
| | |to Selima, and there is no
| | |grazing. To the S., the road to
| | |Sultan Well (the place where
| | |Natron is found) lies across an
| | |open plain, and is easy going. The
| | |tracks spread considerably and
| | |extend across a width of over a
| | |mile.
| | |
| | |An oasis, called Tura, is reported
| | |to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W.
| | |direction, containing date trees,
| | |which is visited at date harvest
| | |time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh
| | |Fadl El Mula is the only one of
| | |the party who had been there, and
| | |he said the water is very bad.
| | |Except for the above, the guides
| | |say they have no knowledge of any
| | |water to the W. of Lagia, and that
| | |there is no road with a direction
| | |of N. and S. lying to the W. of
| | |Lagia.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

108.—DONGOLA TO BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).

BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola, or | — | — |After half an hour’s marching,
Gharbi Dongola| | |reached buildings of former
| | |District, which stand 1 mile from
| | |mosque on E. bank by range-finder,
| | |and at an angle of 78° (magnetic).
| | |Left at 9 a.m. Going easy over
| | |hard sand. Marched parallel with
| | |river until near Kheleiwa as
| | |marked on map (Debba Sheet 45,
| | |E.), then turned W. and marched
| | |about 2 hours to well.
| | |
| | |At Kheleiwa on river there are old
| | |ruins. A legend has it that there
| | |is an underground passage from
| | |these ruins to the well in the
| | |desert to the W.
| | |
_Kheleiwa | 19¾ | 19¾ |Kheleiwa well stands in the centre
Well_ (1st | | |of a mound covered with broken
halt) | | |burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8
| | |feet from the surface is built
| | |with stone, then it is dug into
| | |solid rock; on lowering a candle
| | |to within 6 feet of the water, the
| | |sides disappear from view, and
| | |apparently there is a wide chamber
| | |at bottom of well; candle burnt
| | |freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth
| | |of well to water 96 feet.
| | |
_Bir El | 32¼ | 52 |Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is
Marghum_ (2nd | | |well defined, being the main road
halt) | | |from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is
| | |easy going the whole way,
| | |direction about 330° (magnetic).
| | |About 24 miles from Kheleiwa Well
| | |ground begins to fall, and the
| | |Wadi El Gab may be said to begin.
| | |
| | |El Marghum is the most southern
| | |well in El Gab and one of the
| | |deepest, being about 20 feet deep
| | |before reaching water, and is
| | |stone lined, water good, cool, and
| | |pleasant to drink, depth of water
| | |3½ feet, and reported always
| | |plentiful. This well is said to be
| | |6 hours from Khandak with an easy
| | |road. Near well are one or two
| | |good sayal trees and selem bushes,
| | |but no date palms.
| | |
_Awene_ | — | — |Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from
| | |El Marghum to Um Hagar, direction
| | |330°. After 1½ miles a track
| | |branches to Shoki at direction
| | |295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla,
| | |the head of the Gunganab, one of
| | |the largest of the Kababish sub-
| | |tribes, lives at Awene. The water
| | |of this well is about 8 feet from
| | |surface and luke warm, it lies
| | |about 6 miles from Marghum; there
| | |are a number of fine sayal trees
| | |about, as well as date and dom
| | |palms; good shade.
| | |
_El Agari_ | — | — |This is a small well without stone
| | |facing, water cooler and
| | |pleasanter to drink than Awene,
| | |lies 1½ miles from latter.
| | |Surrounded by selem bushes.
| | |
Id Wad Medawi | — | — |Dwelling of the former Sheikh of
| | |Gunganab, an old man, reported age
| | |115 years, very feeble; a number
| | |of date trees near here, and track
| | |to Millan passes a number of tukls
| | |used during date harvest season.
| | |
_Bir Millan_ | 14 | 66 |This well, about 14 miles from
| | |Marghum, is surrounded by about 20
| | |big sayal trees giving good shade,
| | |there is also a lot of littel
| | |shrub on dunes near; it is
| | |impossible to approach well from
| | |S., owing to the shifting sand
| | |dunes; this well is practically
| | |the limit of the Wadi El Gab.
| | |Water good and plentiful.
| | |
| | |From Millan track runs nearly due
| | |W., crossing a district called
| | |Imsinni, where a number of goats
| | |are grazed, being watered every
| | |third day at Millan.
| | |
Um Hagar (3rd | 6½ | 72½ |A stone-lined well, at present
Halt) | | |filled with sand to within 6 feet
| | |of the mouth. Sand is damp and
| | |might easily be cleared. The
| | |Kababish do not use well for fear
| | |of the Bedaiat, who raided this
| | |well and Matassi in 1902. Good
| | |grazing for camels.
| | |
_Matassi_ (4th| 9 | 81½ |From Um Hagar track runs nearly
halt) | | |due W., the going is indifferent;
| | |a little grazing on hadr on the
| | |way. Matassi lies in a plain some
| | |5 or 6 square miles in extent;
| | |water is very plentiful and about
| | |3 feet from surface; watered 70 or
| | |80 camels from the four or five
| | |pans that were open with ease; the
| | |water is cool, pleasant to drink,
| | |and seems to have the property of
| | |cooling very rapidly after
| | |boiling. Kababish captured camels
| | |from Bedaiat here two years ago. A
| | |few wild date palms, but
| | |practically no shelter from sun or
| | |wind.
| | |
__Murrat_ | 5 | 86½ |General direction W. Murrat, about
| | |5 miles from Mutassi, is a low-
| | |lying plain, containing a few
| | |selem bushes, and three or four
| | |groups of date and dom palms;
| | |water easily found, but it is
| | |bitter and undrinkable; going
| | |fair; black rock predominates.
| | |
El Hofra | 4½ | 91 |A plain encircled on E. and S. by
| | |a ridge, and on the N. by high
| | |sand dunes, some littel shrub, and
| | |a few dom palms. One dom palm
| | |which formerly had a well next it
| | |is now buried in a sand dune which
| | |has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10
| | |years. No shelter from N. wind or
| | |sun.
| | |
Sixth halt | 23½ | 114½ |General direction 230° to 240°,
| | |going easy; about 12th or 13th
| | |mile from El Hofra found a few
| | |patches of grass, indicating rain
| | |here last season. About 17th mile
| | |going becomes more difficult and
| | |ground rises. At 20th mile a high
| | |conical (?) is reached, from which
| | |plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be
| | |seen; erected a pile of stones at
| | |this point. Ground then slopes
| | |down, and track lies through a
| | |depression until at 23rd mile a
| | |plain is reached, extending 17
| | |miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad.
| | |Here there is some hadr grass,
| | |affording some grazing. The plain
| | |is scattered with lava-like
| | |stones.
| | |
Seventh halt | 32½ | 147 |General direction due W. to a
(on plateau of| | |ravine in Jebel Abiad. The J.
J. Abiad) | | |Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum,
| | |running from N. to S.; it is the
| | |same range as is skirted by track
| | |from Dongola to Lagia Wells. After
| | |ascending bluff direction is
| | |W.S.W., across a plateau with a
| | |very gentle slope down towards the
| | |W.; surface is shingle scattered
| | |with agates and flints. Could
| | |obtain no shelter to halt near.
| | |
Tundubi (8th | 24 | 171 |About 1 hour after leaving last
halt) | | |halt passed a rocky patch of
| | |ground, where the track is well
| | |defined, the only place where old
| | |lines of tracks are seen, being
| | |about 18 miles from bluff. About
| | |28 miles from bluff crossed a
| | |valley containing gottab grass and
| | |some other grazing. At Tundubi a
| | |well had been opened recently, and
| | |my party, after deepening it to
| | |nearly 30 feet, were able to water
| | |about six camels and fill up
| | |skins. Latest report is that the
| | |well has been filled in
| | |maliciously. There is abundance of
| | |gottab, hadr, and akol, giving
| | |good grazing, also some fine
| | |tundub trees and selem bushes. A
| | |quantity of senna also grows here.
| | |
Ninth halt | 27 | 198 |General direction W.S.W. (at 250°
| | |by P. compass), very easy
| | |undulating country.
| | |
Tenth halt | 12½ | 210½ |About 31 miles from Tundubi met a
| | |caravan, on descending into a
| | |valley, along which the track
| | |lies. Easy going. No shelter. Saw
| | |ostrich tracks.
| | |
Eleventh halt | 28½ | 239 |Easy going all day; general
| | |direction W. Jebel Raya is seen
| | |some 10 miles away to the S.; it
| | |lies on the road from El Ain to
| | |Bir Sultan. Found a good place to
| | |halt, with a few tundub trees and
| | |some hadr scrub.
| | |
Twelfth halt | 23 | 262 |Same general direction W. After 3
| | |miles descended into a deep sandy
| | |khor, containing some hadr scrub
| | |(difficult going), marched along
| | |it for an hour in direction 250°;
| | |then crossed a rocky ridge for 10
| | |miles, then an open plain of
| | |shingle for 5 miles, and down
| | |another khor of deep sand with
| | |clumps of hadr scrub in it,
| | |direction 260°. Then direction
| | |changed constantly to avoid
| | |conical hills. Halted on rocky
| | |ground.
| | |
_Milani_ | — | — |Two hours’ easy marching and then
| | |2 hours across an exposed plateau
| | |of rocky ground, before reaching a
| | |steep descent down to Milani; a
| | |thick clump of selem trees in the
| | |Natron valley. At Milani water is
| | |apparently very plentiful, the
| | |sand between the dunes being wet
| | |and brown. Did not try to obtain
| | |water, as, though drinkable, it is
| | |reported not to be so good as the
| | |water found at Sultan, 3 miles
| | |away.
| | |
_Bir Sultan_ | — | — |Sultan, a low-lying area of about
| | |a ¼ mile square of uneven ground
| | |covered with tussocks of halfa
| | |grass. Water easily obtained and
| | |plentiful. I found two or three
| | |pans open, at which animals can
| | |get to the water themselves. There
| | |are five or six date palms, also
| | |grasses such as tamam, halfa,
| | |taklis, but no shrubs, at Sultan.
| | |It lies nearly due S. of J.
| | |Kashaf.
| | |
_Natron | 21 | 283 |The best natron bed lies about 2
diggings (13th| | |miles away from the water at
halt) | | |Sultan by the shortest and most
| | |direct route to the river, it is
| | |probably not more than 250 miles
| | |instead of the 283 I travelled.
| | |The diggings have the appearance
| | |of a sandy salt pan, from which
| | |sea water has run off, the sand
| | |being encrusted with a white salt-
| | |like substance. To obtain the
| | |natron the upper surface of sand,
| | |about 2 inches to 4 inches, is
| | |cleared away, until the natron, a
| | |substance resembling rock salt, is
| | |reached. The top part is usually
| | |bad, being half sand; then there
| | |is a seam of ½ inch to 2 inches of
| | |good natron, again below a little
| | |bad natron, and below all sand
| | |again. Sometimes all the natron is
| | |spoilt by being mixed with sand.
| | |The whole place is scattered with
| | |scores and scores of oryx and
| | |addax horns, which seem to have
| | |been the tool, since time
| | |immemorial, with which to dig out
| | |the natron.
| | |
Jebel Kashaf | — | — |Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from
| | |the natron diggings, and E. of
| | |them at direction 133°; it is a
| | |high conical hill centrally
| | |situated in the northern part of
| | |the valley, and from its summit
| | |the whole valley and various
| | |halting places are overlooked. To
| | |the S. and S.W. is a level plain,
| | |reaching to the horizon without
| | |landmarks.
| | |
| | |The Arbain road runs S.S.W.
| | |apparently, to a place called Domi
| | |(1 day), where there are a few dom
| | |palms, and then from there
| | |branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa,
| | |which latter is reported to be 5
| | |or 6 days from Natron valley in a
| | |S.W. direction.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

109.—DEBBA TO EL OBEID.

(ROUTE DURING RAINS).

COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.

(_Distances only roughly approximate_).

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about
| | |12 feet down to water’s edge.
| | |Excellent water and any quantity,
| | |amount depends on digging.
| | |
_El Amra_ | 43 | 78 |Water good and plentiful,
| | |obtainable by digging in sandy bed
_Hobagi_ | 67 | 145 | of wadi. From here during the
| | |rains travellers go to Hobagi,
| | |where there is a hofra which
| | |contains no water in the dry
| | |season.
| | |
_Haraza_ | 60 | 205 |Water good and plentiful from a
| | |spring at foot of jebel. From
| | |thence _viâ_ Kajmar to El Obeid.
| | |_Vide_ also route 81, Chap. VIII.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel _viâ_ Hobagi, as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.

110.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN.

MAJOR H. V. RAVENSCROFT, JANUARY, 1900.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba Camp | — | — |On leaving camp, a southerly
| | |direction is taken over sandy
| | |ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on
| | |right.
| | |
J. Khattab | 7 | 7 |Hill on either side of track.
| | |
_J. Kufri_ | 3 | 10 |Two wells on track, one in use,
| | |recently repaired by Government.
| | |
J. Birget El | 11 | 21 |Water about 55 feet from surface;
Merafib | | |no rope, so could not taste it.
| | |Six miles from left of track.
| | |
| | |Open desert.
| | |
Kaser El | 4 | 25 |One old well called Atesh, closed
Fokani | | |for a long time. Well-marked
| | |track.
| | |
Khor Kaser | 1 | 26 |On right of track, 400 yards wide.
| | |After this the road runs in khor
| | |for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
| | |
El Magari | 10⅔ | 36⅔ |
| | |
J. Nesub El | 8 | 44⅔ |Range of hills 1½ miles from right
Arda | | |of track. After this the hills
| | |gradually close in to right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅓ | 48 |Track passes over low hills. Nesub
| | |El Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile
| | |another small detached hill,
| | |similar to El Magari, and low
| | |hills on right, 400 yards from
| | |track.
| | |
Wadi Maleiga | 2 | 50 |Good grazing for camels.
| | |
_Abu Sayal_ | 4 | 54 |Good water in small khor about 600
| | |yards from right of track can be
| | |got for a distance of 150 yards by
| | |digging 8 feet to 10 feet from
| | |surface. One small green tree and
| | |usher bushes mark spot. Water at
| | |present plentiful, but guides
| | |state that in dry season supply
| | |becomes small. No people here.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1⅓ | 55⅓ |Range of hills 1,500 yards on
Gelud | | |right of track. No more hills on
| | |left.
| | |
_Wadi Gelud_ | 1⅔ | 57 |One well reported under hill,
| | |supply small in dry season, about
| | |3 miles from right of track. Khor
| | |500 yards wide. Good grazing for
| | |camels.
| | |
Ereishat | 5⅔ | 62⅔ |Dry grass and a few bushes. In
| | |Gordon’s time there was a large
| | |shelter here for travellers and
| | |merchants.
| | |
J. Nesub El | — | — |Three miles from right of track. A
Shabra | | |continuous range of low hills on
| | |right. Open country on left.
| | |
J. Abu Sideir | 2⅔ | 65⅓ |Two miles from right of track.
| | |From here a track to El Boreiga
| | |winds off ½ mile right.
| | |
Khor Abu | 3⅓ | 66⅔ |1,000 yards wide; good grazing for
Sideir | | |camels. Range of black hills 3
| | |miles from right of track. After
| | |1⅓ miles track crosses another
| | |piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two
| | |other small khors, the hills on
| | |right being then 6 miles off; on
| | |left flat open country.
| | |
Wadi Umanagil | 6 | 72⅔ |After this low range of hills 600
| | |yards from and parallel to track,
_Abu Heglig_ | 2 | 74⅔ |a few flocks grazing here in Khor
(water) | | |Boreiga. Good water in khor to be
| | |obtained for a distance by digging
| | |10 feet from surface.
| | |
| | |Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide;
| | |good grazing; six wells in use
| | |here.
| | |
| 2 | 76⅔ |Track passes through gap in spur
| | |running from two hills called Um
| | |Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from
| | |right of track. J. El Minget
| | |(perhaps 30 miles distant) visible
| | |on left; salt is obtained from
| | |this mountain.
| | |
_Khor Wabri_ | 1⅓ | 80 |Hills 4 miles from right of track.
| | |Water in khor like a canal, 4
| | |yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches
| | |in depth. After this open desert;
| | |rain marks; no track.
| | |
| 2⅓ | 82⅓ |Small low sand hills on either
| | |side of the track. Going a little
| | |heavy for first time since leaving
| | |Debba.
| | |
Wadi Abu | 5 | 87⅓ |Broad khor; some grass and bushes;
Hashim | | |good going; open desert on both
| | |sides.
| | |
Dondib El Gedi| 1 | 88⅓ |Old halting place, a few bushes on
| | |either side of track. After heavy
| | |rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
| | |
Wadi Drais | 1⅔ | 90 |Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile
| | |from left of track; well reported
| | |by guide under hill, spot marked
| | |by big tree; well not in use. This
| | |well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
| | |
Wadi Abu Usher| 2⅓ | 92⅓ |Broad khor, dry grass and usher
| | |bushes. J. Abu Usher 1 mile from
| | |right of track; long black hill.
| | |
Khor Derail | 2⅔ | 95 |Small khor; black rocks and hills
| | |on right of track.
| | |
_Abu Inderab_ | 2 | 97 |One well in khor in a sort of cave
| | |15 feet deep; water plentiful,
| | |very clear and sweet. Men have to
| | |descend into the cave to get
| | |water, which is 2½, feet deep;
| | |guide reports water plentiful here
| | |at all times of the year. Sides of
| | |cave hard sandy clay; diameter of
| | |cave at surface 6 feet, opening
| | |out as you go down. Khor 120 yards
| | |wide. Usher bushes and some
| | |grazing for camels. Range of black
| | |hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,
| | |2½ miles from track on right and
| | |remaining parallel with it.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 3½ | 100½ |Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes,
(Warrania) | | |nearly all dying. J. El Kelab 3
| | |miles from right of track, with
| | |low range of black hills between
| | |track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓
| | |miles.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 1⅓ | 101⅚ |Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania),
(Godamia) | | |and the two khors then run east on
| | |left of track. Jebel El Kelab a
| | |continuous range 4 miles long, and
| | |2 miles to 3 miles from right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅔ | 105½ |Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from
| | |right of track. Going sandy and
| | |good; tufts of dry grass.
| | |
_Wadi Gumr_ | 2⅔ | 108⅙ |To east of track, in khor, good
(water) | | |place for sowing dura after heavy
| | |rains. Excellent grazing about 3
| | |miles west of track; water very
| | |near surface and can always be got
| | |in khor by digging. A few Arabs
| | |here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½
| | |miles from right of track.
| | |
J. Maagil Gumr| 3 | 111⅙ |One thousand yards from left of
| | |track, with low spur running down
| | |to track, and another running
| | |parallel with road for 1½ miles.
| | |
| 1 | 112⅙ |Low hill on right, close to track,
| | |½ mile long.
| | |
| ⅔ | 112⅚ |Continuous range of hills on right
| | |3 miles off. A gap opposite here,
| | |300 yards long, called Feg Gumr.
| | |J. Wad El Melih begins after Feg
| | |Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under
| | |range parallel to it.
| | |
Um Aragib | 1⅓ | 114⅙ |On left of track; bushes, black
| | |stones; good going on ten to
| | |twelve camel tracks. Hill on right
| | |5 miles distant.
| | |
J. Maagil Wad | 3⅓ | 117½ |Small hill 300 yards from right of
El Melih | | |track, with prominent point 60
| | |feet high.
| | |
Khor Wad El | 1½ | 119 |Many dead usher bushes.
Melih | | |
| | |
| 1½ | 120½ |On right, range of hills, after
| | |being 10 miles distant, comes in
| | |to within ½ mile of track, and
| | |from here runs parallel with it.
| | |
| 2 | 122½ |End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles
| | |from right of track, after this J.
| | |El Shab.
| | |
Khor El Shab | 3⅓ | 125⅚ |El Shab 2½ miles from right of
| | |track; good going.
| | |
Khor Abu Usher| 3 | 128⅚ |Small khor; dying osier bushes,
| | |some grazing. Hills on right, 6
| | |miles off. Khor on right winding
| | |from S. crosses track here.
| | |
| | |Well on right of road, no water,
| | |only in rainy season.
| | |
Khor Abuera | 4 | 132⅚ |Running from J. Abuera about 10
| | |miles on right, khor finishes
| | |here, none on left of track.
| | |Excellent going, well marked
| | |track, rain marks, flat open
| | |country, nothing in sight.
| | |
Khor Bohat | 7⅔ | 140½ |Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat
| | |10 miles on right.
| | |
Gedemtina | 3 | 143½ |Old halting place. A few bushes,
| | |hard, sandy.
| | |
| 4⅓ | 147⅚ |Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles
| | |off; this khor stretches to Korti.
| | |
Wadi Medeisis | 1⅔ | 149½ |From hill on right joins Wadi
| | |Gabra, 2 miles from left of track.
| | |
_Gabra Wells_ | 6⅓ | 155⅚ |Four wells, water always
| | |plentiful, very sweet and clear,
| | |55 feet from surface; many flocks
| | |and some cows water here; wells in
| | |open space in middle of thick
| | |trees, with zeriba for flocks.
| | |
| | |Before arriving at wells track for
| | |4 miles through trees, mostly
| | |sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty
| | |of dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of
| | |wells with Yunis’ house in centre
| | |and tukls of the Jehadia round it.
| | |
| 2 | 157⅚ |Up to here marked track, after
| | |this only visible at places owing
| | |to sand covering footprints on
| | |hard ground; uneven, but going
| | |good; bushes and grass everywhere;
| | |good grazing; gazelle.
| | |
Gerguf | 3 | 160⅚ |
| | |
Goz Abu Dluet | 5⅓ | 166⅙ |Excellent dry grass and bushes for
| | |camel grazing.
| | |
El Hanakat | 4 | 170⅙ |Low spur on either side of track,
| | |which is more distinct here and in
| | |a sort of khor 80 yards wide full
| | |of green bushes.
| | |
El Shegeig | 2⅔ | 172⅚ |About 1 mile on left of track;
| | |thick trees.
| | |
Id Anal | 4⅓ | 177⅙ |Sandy; trees and grass; ground
| | |slightly undulating.
| | |
Khor Id Anal | 3⅓ | 180½ |Very narrow khor; rain marks;
| | |sandy going.
| | |
Gala Fashfos | 8⅓ | 188⅚ |Main peak of Omdurman mountain in
| | |sight (Abu Leidat).
| | |
| 2 | 190⅚ |Small round hill (El Gesi) on
| | |left, 3 miles off.
| | |
El Hafir | 1⅓ | 192⅙ |J. El Magrun on left.
| | |
El Auti | 7⅓ | 199½ |J. Abu Leidat on left.
| | |
El Adara | 1 | 200½ |
| | |
| 1 | 201½ |Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1 | 202½ |One isolated hill 1,000 yards from
Merkhiat | | |left of track.
| | |
| | |Merkhiat Hills on right.
| | |
| 1⅓ | 204⅙ |Track passes through gap in Nesub
| | |El Merkhiat, one hill on left
| | |close to path, on right hills come
| | |down close to track.
| | |
| 2⅔ | 206⅚ |Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right.
| | |Going sandy, heavier than during
| | |any other part of route.
| | |
Omdurman | 1⅔ | 208½ |Beginning of houses.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

NOTE.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab, Gumr, and Gabra.

111.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN, _viâ_ ELAI.

COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.

N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Water plentiful. Three wells, 12
| | |feet deep (James, 1902).
| | |
_El Amri_ | 43 | 78 |Water plentiful (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Abu Tawagia_ | 25 | 103 |One well, 8 feet deep; good water
| | |(James, 1902).
| | |
_Elai_ | 18 | 121 |Water, scarce in dry season, from
| | |two stone-lined wells (Currie,
| | |1903). From here, shortest way is
| | |to Gambar, but road stony and bad,
| | |and merchants generally go to Gumr
| | |(25 miles). _Vide_ Route 110.
| | |
_Gambar_ | 37 | 158 |Wells, water (?) (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Gabra_ | 24 | 182 |Water plentiful, from many wells.
| | |
Omdurman | 56 | 238 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

112.—AMBUGOL OR KORTI TO METEMMA.

FROM REPORTS BY MR. FOWLER, 1871, AND NUMEROUS OFFICERS OF THE NILE
EXPEDITION, 1885.