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Chapter III: (north-Eastern Sudan.) (1)

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1.—NO. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) TO DERAHEIB.

BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1902.

[Sidenote: General.]

The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.

[Sidenote: Nature of road.]

There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.

[Sidenote: Water.]

Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.

[Sidenote: Fuel and shade.]

Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.

[Sidenote: Grain.]

No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.

---------+---------------+---------------+----------------------------
| Hamda Hours. | Miles. |
Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description.
| Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.|
|mediate.| |mediate.| |
---------+--------+------+--------+------+----------------------------
_No. 6 | — | — | — | — |No. 6 Station on Halfa-
Station | | | | |Khartoum Railway, 127 miles
(S.G.R.)_| | | | |from Halfa, and 1,555 feet
| | | | |above sea level.
| | | | |
| | | | |British foreman. Telegraph
| | | | |office.
| | | | |
| | | | |No station buildings nor
| | | | |accommodation for persons
| | | | |detained there.
| | | | |
| | | | |Well with steam pump gives
| | | | |12,000 gallons daily. Water
| | | | |contains some salts, but
| | | | |drinkable. Nile water can be
| | | | |obtained for small parties
| | | | |from station supply. Some
| | | | |“selem” bushes give firewood
| | | | |and a little grazing for
| | | | |camels. No inhabitants
| | | | |except railway staff. No
| | | | |supplies.
| | | | |
| | | | |Is the base of the staff of
| | | | |the Egypt and Sudan Mining
| | | | |Syndicate now developing Um
| | | | |Nabari or Nabadi mine.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track, now pretty well
| | | | |marked, makes straight for
| | | | |the N. end of J. Keheli,
| | | | |after rounding which it
| | | | |makes for J. Mindara,
| | | | |keeping a couple of miles to
| | | | |the N. of it. Road
| | | | |practically level and mostly
| | | | |good trotting surface,
| | | | |though sand a little heavy
| 7 | 7 | — | — |in places.
| | | | |
| 3¼ | 10¼ | — | — |Road crosses a low saddle
| | | | |and descends into one of the
| | | | |branches of the Wadi Murrat,
| | | | |amongst a lot of low tangled
| | | | |hills. After following the
| | | | |wadi for 300 yards or so,
| | | | |another saddle is crossed to
| | | | |cut off a bend, after which
| | | | |the wadi is followed till it
| | | | |joins the main wadi, just
| | | | |before the fort of Murrat is
| | | | |reached.
| | | | |
_Murrat_ | 1 | 11¼ | — | 34 |The engineer of the Egypt
| | | | |and Sudan Mining Syndicate
| | | | |has fitted a pump in one of
| | | | |the wells in the wadi, which
| | | | |gives cleaner, though not
| | | | |less bitter water than
| | | | |before. The Arabs and
| | | | |Berberi servants drink it
| | | | |uncomplainingly, but
| | | | |Europeans are advised to
| | | | |avoid it if they can. About
| | | | |10 miles slightly N. of W.
| | | | |up the main Wadi Murrat is
| | | | |the site of the Um Nabari or
| | | | |Nabadi mine, now being
| | | | |developed by the Company.
| | | | |Road quite easy along the
| | | | |wadi.
| | | | |
| | | 1½ | 35½ |On leaving Murrat fort the
| | | | |track keeps down the wadi
| 1 | 12¼ | 1½ | 37 |for 1½ miles, then turns off
| | | | |to the left over somewhat
| | | | |stony ground, and, crossing
| | | | |a saddle and the head of
| | | | |another affluent of the Wadi
| 1¾ | 14 | 4 | 41 |Murrat about 1½ miles
| | | | |further on, descends easily
| | | | |into the basin of the Wadi
| | | | |Dayob. Across slightly
| | | | |undulating ground, aiming
| | | ½ | 41½ |just to the left of J. Abu
| | | | |Dayob, a rocky sand-covered
| | | | |hill (with a pillar on the
| | | | |top) which, though only 200
| | | | |or 300 feet high, stands up
| | | | |well amidst its
| | | | |surroundings, and turns down
| | | | |the wadi past its northern
| | | | |foot.
| | | | |
| ½ | 14½ | ½ | 42 |Along the wadi passing a
| | | | |gorge about 50 yards wide;
| | | | |wadi then turns rather to
| | | | |S.E. There is some camel
| | | | |grazing here.
| | | | |
| | | | |Road now turns to left out
| | | | |of wadi, and, after crossing
| | | | |low ridges for about one
| | | | |hour and passing near some
| 1 | 15½ | — | — |“selem” bushes in one of the
| | | | |wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1
| | | | |mile broad, and heads
| | | | |generally for J. Kerar
| | | | |Berar.
| | | | |
| ½ | 16 | 3¾ | 45¾ |Half-a-mile further on J.
| | | | |Mosiai (pillar on top) is at
| | | | |right angles about 1 to 2
| | | | |miles distant on left.
| | | | |
| 1½ | 17½ | — | — |Track leaves plain over low
| | | | |ridges and descends by
| 1 | 18½ | — | — |gentle slope obliquely to
| | | | |Wadi Mosiai. There are a few
| 1¾ | 20¼ | — | — |of the peculiar dom palms of
| | | | |the country above where wadi
| | | | |is struck, and a little
| | | | |“selem” and some scrubby
| | | | |plants below. Track keeps
| | | | |down wadi generally, till it
| | | | |gets well clear of the low
| | | | |hills, when it turns half
| | | | |left over open plain, good
| | | | |going, and passes an
| | | | |isolated patch of “selem”
| | | | |bushes in Gabgaba.
| | | | |
W. | 2 | 22¼ | 16 | 61¾ |The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾
Gabgaba | | | | |to 1½ miles wide in places,
| | | | |consisting of several
| | | | |channels separated by flat
| | | | |gravel. The bed itself is
| | | | |sandy, honeycombed with rat
| | | | |holes, and very bad going.
| | | | |Immense quantities of the
| | | | |“handal” plant grow in it,
| | | | |and in years of good
| | | | |rainfall dura is cultivated.
| | | | |
| | | | |Track, leaving the wadi half
| | | | |right, keeps over a gravel
| | | | |plain with gentle slopes
| | | | |till it strikes the W. Telat
| | | | |Abda just outside the low
| 2¼ | 24½ | 6 | 67¾ |hills.
| | | | |
| | | | |There is plenty of “selem”
| | | | |in the wadi, giving good
| | | | |camel grazing and abundance
| | | | |of firewood.
| | | | |
_Bir | 3 | 27½ | 8¼ | 76 |Track keeps up wadi,
Telat | | | | |occasionally making short
Abda_ | | | | |cuts to right to get better
| | | | |going, as wadi is heavy in
| | | | |places, to well at foot of
| | | | |rather higher hill on left
| | | | |bank which has two stone
| | | | |pillars.
| | | | |
| | | | |The well gives good water,
| | | | |but not very much of it.
| | | | |About ¼ mile higher up under
| | | | |the right bank where the
| | | | |wadi forks is another well
| | | | |generally used for watering
| | | | |camels. From here the roads
| | | | |to Abu Tabag and Naba
| | | | |branch. That to Naba keeps
| | | | |straight on, that is up the
| | | | |right-hand branch of the
| | | | |fork. Naba is about 17 miles
| | | | |from Telat Abda, whence it
| | | | |draws its drinking water.
| | | | |Near Telat Abda well is a
| | | | |sayal tree that gives good
| | | | |shade.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track starts up the Khor
| | | | |Liseiwi, or left-hand branch
| | | | |of the fork, past the upper
| | | | |well, but soon turns to
| | | | |right from it to cut off a
| | | | |corner, and drops into the
| | | | |khor again at a water hole
| | | | |(generally dry) under Jebel
_J. | 3 | 30½ | 6 | 82 |Liseiwi (marked by a
Liseiwi_ | | | | |pillar).
| | | | |
W. | 2 | 32½ | 6 | 88 |Keeps up khor and, crossing
Abaraga | | | | |a low saddle, descends into
| | | | |Wadi Abaraga.
| | | | |
| ¼ | 32¾ | ¾ | 88¾ |Keeps up wadi, which is well
| | | | |wooded with selem, sayal and
| | | | |the single-stemmed fan palm
| | | | |(_Medemia argun_), and
| ½ | 33¼ | 1½ | 90¼ |passes some wells close
| | | | |under left bank. The wadi
| | | | |flows through very broken
| | | | |low hills, 200 to 400 feet
| | | | |high.
| | | | |
| 1¼ | 34½ | 3½ | 93¾ |Track issues on to open
| | | | |space where the hills recede
| | | | |and wadis come in from all
| | | | |directions.
| | | | |
| — | — | 4 | 97¾ |Track now turns N.E.,
| | | | |passing between some low
| | | | |hills over gravelly plain,
| — | — | 4¼ | 102 |and turns S.E. up wadi, now
| | | | |confined between rounded
| | | | |reddish hills. The palms
| | | | |have now ceased, but selem
| | | | |is still found. The hills
| | | | |soon get lower and wadi less
| | | | |confined.
| | | | |
| — | — | 4½ | 106½ |A track from Hesmet Omar.
| | | | |
| — | — | 2¼ | 108¾ |Saddle at head of Wadi
| | | | |Abaraga is reached, easy
| | | | |ascent and descent commenced
| | | | |over gently sloping gravel
Wadi Abu | 7¾ | 42¼ | 2¼ | 111 |to the Wadi Abu Bard which
Bard | | | | |flows through an open valley
| | | | |2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of
| | | | |wood in wadi.
| | | | |
| — | — | 2 | 113 |The same direction is
| | | | |continued across the wadi
| — | — | 3½ | 116½ |till a low saddle is
| | | | |crossed, and track descends
| | | | |a branch of Abu Bard for a
| | | | |little more than a mile;
| | | | |then across an open space
| | | | |N.E. up an affluent of the
| | | | |same branch till it crosses
| | | | |a low saddle at its head and
| | | | |descends into an affluent of
| | | | |the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This
| | | | |part is very stony and
| | | | |severe on plains camels,
| | | | |though the gradients are not
| | | | |heavy. The track keeps down
| | | | |the valley, crossing a
| | | | |couple of affluents bounded
| | | | |by low hills, till it
| | | | |reaches another low, but
| | | | |stony saddle, whence it
| | | | |descends into and crosses an
| | | | |affluent of the Wadi Abu
| | | | |Tabag or Wadi Ga; after
| — | — | 5 | 121½ |another 2 miles of stony
| | | | |ground the track descends
| — | — | 2 | 123½ |into another branch of the
| | | | |Abu Tabag wadi, which it
_Abu | 5½ | 47¾ | 2 | 125½ |follows till it reaches the
Tabag_ | | | | |well.
| | | | |
| | | | |The valley opens out a bit
| | | | |here, though immediately
| | | | |over the well there are low
| | | | |hills which still carry the
| | | | |breastworks erected by
| | | | |Beshir Bey’s men as a
| | | | |protection against
| | | | |dervishes.
| | | | |
| | | | |The well is about 20 feet
| | | | |deep, of which the lower 12
| | | | |feet, is revetted with
| | | | |stone. Plenty of water. Many
| | | | |small partridges.
| | | | |
| | | | |An Inspector’s rest house
| | | | |has been built here. Some
| | | | |fine sayal trees.
| | | | |
| | | | |There are a number of dom
| | | | |palms trying to come up, but
| | | | |none have succeeded in
| | | | |showing any trunk yet.
| | | | |
| | | | |The wadi here is, I believe,
| | | | |called the Wadi Ga, but I am
| | | | |not sure.
| | | | |
Wadi Ga | — | — | 2 | 127½ |The track continues down the
| | | | |wadi for 2 miles and turns
| | | | |off to the left over flat
| | | | |and undulating ground; easy
| | | | |going for some miles, the
| 4¼ | 52 | 10 | 137½ |general direction being a
| | | | |little to the left of J.
| | | | |Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga
| | | | |(plenty of selem) and cuts
| | | | |over a low saddle at the
| | | | |north end of Kirmai.
| | | | |
Wadi Abu | — | — | 2 | 139½ |After about 2 more miles,
Kitabab | | | | |heavy going, over sand-
| | | | |covered ridges the track
| | | | |descends into the Wadi Abu
| | | | |Kitabab, which joins the
| | | | |Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below
| | | | |where the track crosses it.
| | | | |There are plenty of trees of
| | | | |several different sorts.
| | | | |
| 2 | 54 | 3 | 142½ |Road continues up wadi for 3
| | | | |miles to a point where it
| | | | |forks.
| | | | |
| | | | |The southern branch is also
| | | | |called Abu Kitabab. The
| | | | |track to Sohanit and Onib,
| | | | |viâ _Mashushenai well_ (very
| | | | |little water), ascends it.
| | | | |The other branch is called
| | | | |Ebeirid. After ascending it
| — | — | 4 | 146½ |for 4 miles, low saddle is
| | | | |crossed; after 4½ more miles
| | | | |of mostly very stony ground,
| | | | |ending in a short and very
Wadi | 3½ | 57½ | 4½ | 151 |rough descent, the Wadi
Abdelala | | | | |Abdelala is reached. This
| | | | |wadi is here well wooded.
| | | | |Lots of marakh. The track
| | | | |ascends it a short distance
| | | | |and then turns up a side
| | | | |khor, out of it to left into
| | | | |another and over an easy
| | | | |saddle down into Wadi Bitna
| | | | |or Butna; confined bed, high
| | | | |hills on right bank.
| | | | |
| 1½ | 59 | 4½ | 155½ |Top of Mashushenai just
| | | | |visible, a few selem and a
| | | | |good many samr trees.
| | | | |
| | | | |Track keeps down wadi,
| | | | |cutting off one or two
| | | | |corners, stony, but not very
| | | | |bad going. The bed gets
| | | | |narrower and low cliffs more
| | | | |perpendicular till wells are
| | | | |reached at a place where a
| | | | |projecting cliff appears to
| | | | |bar the passage. Just before
| | | | |reaching it some tombs are
_Wells_ | 1½ | 60½ | 4 | 159½ |passed.
| | | | |
| | | | |There are two wells or water
| | | | |holes about 5 feet in
| | | | |diameter, surface of water 6
| | | | |feet below bed of wadi. Lots
| | | | |of good water.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track continues,
| | | | |original direction, for
| | | | |about ½ mile and then turns
| | | | |E., and a mile further on
| | | | |meets the Wadi Elei coming
| | | | |from the S.E. The united
| | | | |wadi now flows a little E.
| | | | |of N., the hills diminish
| | | | |and the valley increases in
| | | | |width and the vegetation
| | | | |decreases. After 2 miles the
| | | | |track turns off to right, up
| | | | |what was a good track a year
| | | | |or so ago, but is now barred
| | | | |by waves of sand. After some
| | | | |three miles, most part of
| | | | |which is very heavy going,
| | | | |the track descends into the
| | | | |broad and ill defined bed of
| | | | |an affluent of the Wadi
| 2 | 62½ | 4½ | 164 |Elei. Little grazing.
| | | | |
| | | | |Over bare undulating plain,
| | | | |dotted with hummocky ridges
| | | | |of decomposed granite more
| 3½ | 66 | 10 | 174 |or less covered with sand.
| | | | |Good going till a low and
| | | | |easy watershed is crossed
Wadi | 1¼ | 67¼ | 3 | 177 |and track descends easily to
Nasari | | | | |Wadi Nasari, a broad well
| | | | |wooded wadi that comes from
| | | | |Jebel Sohanit, and joins the
Wadi | 1½ | 68¾ | 4 | 181 |Alagi a few miles N. of
Alagi | | | | |where the track strikes it.
| | | | |Track crosses wadi in the
| | | | |direction of Jebel Eigat
| | | | |and, passing through some
| | | | |low hills, reaches the Wadi
| | | | |Alagi. Track quite easy.
| | | | |
| | | | |The Wadi Alagi here is at
| | | | |least ½ mile wide, bounded
| | | | |by low hills on both banks,
| | | | |but rising higher behind on
| | | | |the right bank. It contains
| | | | |many refreshingly green
| | | | |trees of several sorts,
| | | | |marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr,
| | | | |arak, &c.
| | | | |
_Wadi | 2 | 70¾ | 6 | 187 |Up wadi, which narrows to
Taimurit_| | | | |about 300 to 400 yards. It
| | | | |is joined on the left bank
| | | | |by a khor called Taimurit,
| | | | |up which there is a
| | | | |waterhole, good water. On
| | | | |the right bank opposite it
| | | | |is a hill conspicuously
| | | | |higher than the majority of
| | | | |those that overhang the
| | | | |wadi.
| | | | |
| | | | |On both banks are remains of
| | | | |houses, and a quartz reef is
| | | | |conspicuous on the left
| | | | |bank. The latitude of
| | | | |junction of Taimurit and
| | | | |Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so
| | | | |most, if not all, the reef
| | | | |is north of 22°. It shows
| | | | |marks of having been
| | | | |prospected.
| | | | |
_Wadi | 1 | 71¾ | 3 | 190 |One hour further on, where
Neshd_ | | | | |the wadi changes the
| | | | |direction of its flow from
| | | | |S.W. to N.W., some tombs
| | | | |close under the right bank
| | | | |are a landmark for the Wadi
| | | | |Neshd, which comes in on the
| | | | |left bank opposite. There is
| | | | |good water in the Wadi
| | | | |Neshd.
| | | | |
| | | | |The wadi now begins to wind
| | | | |more. Two hours further on
_Wadi | 2 | 73¾ | 6 | 196 |the Wadi Kamotit on right
Kamotit_ | | | | |bank is passed. There is
| | | | |good water a short way up
| | | | |it.
| | | | |
Deraheib | 4¼ | 78 | 12 | 208 |The wadi now begins to
| | | | |wriggle about without,
| | | | |however, much decreasing in
| | | | |width. The hills on either
| | | | |side continue to be of no
| | | | |great height, and in one or
| | | | |two places the track crosses
| | | | |low saddles to cut off
| | | | |corners; good trees all the
| | | | |way.
| | | | |
| | | | |At Deraheib is a ruined
| | | | |castle of stone set in mud,
| | | | |with two or three pointed
| | | | |arches set in lime. Another
| | | | |building of nearly equal
| | | | |size in plan, but not so
| | | | |high, and the ruins of a
| | | | |number of houses and
| | | | |shelters are on the left
| | | | |bank. On the right bank,
| | | | |nearly opposite, are a
| | | | |number of ruined stone
| | | | |houses arranged in streets,
| | | | |and covering 3 to 4 acres.
| | | | |They are built in stone and
| | | | |mud, but a few arches in
| | | | |lime are to be seen. The
| | | | |ruins are evidently greatly
| | | | |filled in and might possibly
| | | | |repay excavation. There are
| | | | |small stone shelters of the
| | | | |same kind up various khors.
_Water_ | — | — | — | — |The _nearest water_ now is 2
| | | | |or 3 miles off up a wadi
| | | | |that joins the left bank of
| | | | |the Alagi about 1½ miles
| | | | |further up.
| | | | |
| | | | |The latitude of the N.W.
| | | | |corner of the ruined castle
| | | | |is 21° 56′ 48·5″.
| | | | |
| | | | |On the low hills on left
| | | | |bank, within ½ mile of the
| | | | |fort, are a number of shafts
| | | | |sunk in the reef which is
| | | | |here very apparent. In
| | | | |December there were very few
| | | | |Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In
| | | | |the summer there are many.
| | | | |
| | | | |The rate of the hamla has
| | | | |been taken at 2½ to 3 miles
| | | | |per hour, as, I think, my
| | | | |camels went. Neither times
| | | | |nor distances, therefore,
| | | | |can be relied on absolutely.
---------+--------+------+--------+------+----------------------------

2.—SUAKIN TO BERBER.

[Sidenote: Roads.]

There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, _viâ_ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.

The second route, _viâ_ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.

(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]

MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, OCTOBER, 1897, AND DECEMBER AND JANUARY,
1897-98.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Suakin | — | — |Road runs in north-westerly
| | |direction alongside formation
| | |level of old Suakin-Berber
| | |railway. Good road, and easy going
| | |through scrub, with mimosa and
| | |acacia trees. Plain covered with
| | |camels and flocks of goats
| | |grazing. Gentle rise all way to
| | |Handub.
| | |
_Handub Well_ | 10 | 10 |Water here practically unlimited,
| | |slightly brackish; good camp
| | |ground, fuel, and grazing for
| | |camels. Water about 20 feet down.
| | |
| 3 | 13 |Track enters hills, which
| | |gradually close in on either side,
| | |going still good and gentle rise.
| | |
_Otao Well_ | 6 | 19 |Two wells here, giving good water,
| | |holes in ground, could be easily
| | |developed, at present sufficient
| | |for two companies infantry and
| | |their transport. Formation level
| | |of old railway ends here.
| | |
_Tambuk Well_ | 5 | 24 |Good water, supply practically
| | |unlimited, now three wells, would
| | |be easily increased. Good camp
| | |ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle,
| | |hares, partridges, and doves along
| | |road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in
| | |wells about 15 feet down.
| | |
| 2 | 26 |To here going stony and rough,
| | |then through a short defile, and
| | |somewhat better; trees and shrubs
| | |all along.
| | |
Khor Ossaud | 5 | 31 |A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a
| | |½-mile level, stony ground,
Olip | 1 | 32 |without a shrub, and down to Khor
| | |Ossaud broad khor, full of trees,
| | |&c.; excellent going.
| | |
Khor Adit | 1 | 33 |Khor Adit, the main khor from
| | |Sinkat, which is about 20 miles
| | |distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some
| | |gazelles, many doves in this khor,
| | |also numerous herds, goats and
| | |camels grazing. Junction of khor,
| | |called Olip.
| | |
| 3 | 36 |Track bends suddenly to right, and
| | |crosses a short and easy “agaba,”
| | |or pass. This is a short cut, main
| | |khor could be followed, and pass
| | |avoided, if necessary. This would
| | |make good halting place for
| | |infantry. It is 15 miles from
| | |Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing.
| | |No water, but probably could be
| | |found if sunk for.
| | |
_Dissibil | 7 | 43 |One large well, which is merely
(well)_ | | |hole scooped in ground, gives
| | |plentiful supply good water;
| | |similar water holes could be dug
| | |without difficulty, and supply
| | |water practically unlimited; good
| | |camp ground, fuel, and grazing.
| | |
| | |Dissibil khor full of trees and
| | |shrubs; many gazelle and rock
| | |grouse and doves.
| | |
| 4 | 47 |Track crosses small pass or agaba,
| | |thence runs under high mountains
| | |on left hand, called Jebel Tamei.
| | |Chain of low stone hills on right,
| | |going fair all time.
| | |
Odrus | 7 | 54 |Track debouches on wide open
| | |plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10,
| | |called Wadi Odrus; is covered with
| | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa.
| | |Gradual rise up to here, now
| | |gentle descent to centre of Wadi
| | |Odrus, where a narrow khor known
Tekarti | 6 | 60 |as Tekarti. In good rain season
| | |considerable quantity of dura is
| | |grown along edge of this khor, but
| | |on Dissibil side and to eastwards
| | |only. Several well-grown trees
| | |along edge of khor. This is 15
| | |miles from Dissibil, and would
| | |make suitable halting place for
| | |infantry. No water, except after
| | |rains; good camp ground, fuel, and
| | |grazing. A gradual rise from here.
| | |
| 3¼ | 63¼ |On right of track, under low hill,
| | |several stone huts of Hamdab
| | |tribe.
| | |
| 2 | 65¼ |Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses
| | |outlying stony ridges of Amud
| | |range.
| | |
| 2 | 67¼ |A sharp gradient and highest point
| | |of whole route is reached 2,870
| | |feet above sea level. A sharp
| | |descent by about ¾ mile of rocky
| | |agaba or pass, which, however,
| | |presents but little difficulty to
_Khor Hareitri| ¾ | 68 |passage of all arms, leads to Khor
(well)_ | | |Hareitri, a rather narrow defile
(Tamai) | | |between high stone hills. Stony,
| | |baddish going, full of sunt or
| | |mimosa trees, and patches of
| ¾ | 68¾ |coarse grass. Three-quarters mile
| | |up khor is well, known as Bir
| | |Tamai by some, by others as simply
| | |Hareitri, a stone revetted well,
| | |giving good water about 12 feet
| | |down, rough wood huts on other
| | |side of well.
| | |
_Adel Aweb_[3]| 3¼ | 72 |Rain pools found all along edges
| | |of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a
| | |very large deep pool, giving any
| | |quantity good water. Natives say
| | |pools all disappear in winter a
| | |few months after rain ceases, but
| | |wells could be sunk with success
| | |anywhere in khor. The big pool
| | |above called by natives Adel Aweb.
| | |Good grazing and fuel here,
| | |indifferent camp ground on account
| | |of stones. Rock grouse and doves
| | |in khor, which is about 5 miles
| | |long.
| | |
| 1 | 73 |Hareitri defile ends, and wide
| | |open plain called Wadi Tisartem is
| | |reached. Here dura is cultivated.
| | |
| 1½ | 74½ |A few huts on right, and some dura
| | |grown in good rain season, a good
| | |camp ground near here, fuel and
| | |grazing, but no water, though not
| | |impossible, might be found.
| | |
| 4 | 78½ |Track crosses low rough ridges for
| | |½ mile.
| | |
_Salalat | ½ | 79 |Khor Haab thick with fair-sized
(well)_ | | |trees, a sandy plain. Two and
| | |a-half miles off track, to left or
| | |south, is Bir Salalat, two wells,
| | |partially revetted wood, water
| | |good, about 40 feet down. Supply
| | |limited, each well could, perhaps,
| | |supply 600 gallons, and would then
| | |require three hours to refill,
| | |more wells could easily be sunk.
| | |Good camp ground, fuel and
| | |grazing, and some fair-sized trees
| | |near wells. These wells cannot be
| | |relied on as permanent. In 1903
| | |they had been dry for 2 years.
| | |
| 3½ | 82½ |A slight rise brings track to
| | |level plateau of gravelly trap,
| | |smooth and firm, no vegetation,
| | |leading down to Khor Furd.
| | |
| 2½ | 85 |A very large patch cultivation
| | |dependent on rainfall, nothing
| | |could be grown this year.
| | |
| 5½ | 90½ |Across a neck, high irregular-
| | |shaped rocky hill few hundred
| | |yards to right, large black
| | |boulder to left. Quarter mile
| | |further is level, open, gravelly
| | |piece of ground, suitable for
| | |camp, with fuel and grazing, but
| | |no water. From here vegetation
| | |gradually ceases.
| | |
| 2 | 92½ |Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying
| | |ridge with high mass of rock on
| | |left. From here hills close in and
| | |track along base of outlying spurs
| | |and ridges.
| | |
Khor Kokreb | 3½ | 96 |Agaba or pass leading to Khor
| | |Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight
| | |rise, then a steep and rocky, but
| | |not difficult, piece, in all about
| | |½ mile, and khor is entered; ½
_Hayaba | 1 | 97 |mile on and well called Hayaba, a
(well)_ | | |hole in ground, water a few feet
| | |down and good, only one hole at
| | |present, but others could be dug
| | |in very short time, giving a
| | |practically unlimited supply.
| | |Rough wooden hut and Arab grave,
| | |and on left of well good camp
| | |ground, water, fuel, and grazing.
| | |
_Sarbit | 1½ | 98½ |Revetted stone well, good water
(well)_ | | |about 10 feet down, sufficient for
| | |battalion, good ground, fuel, and
| | |grazing.
| | |
| 4 | 102½ |Track, now well to right of khor,
| | |runs over a neck between small
| | |rocky hills for short way, then
| | |sand, then rocks, with graveyards
| | |on each side; ½ mile on and low
| | |rocky chain hides main khor from
| | |track, hills gradually close in.
| | |
| 1½ | 104 |Hills now come in from north at
| | |right angles to track, and appear
| | |to entirely block up khor; under
| | |these hills was situated the
| | |Dervish post of Osman Digna. A
| | |collection of tukuls, sufficient
| | |for about 200 men, and surrounded
| | |by a thick thorn zariba; clear,
| | |level space, some 700 yards to
| | |front and flanks, within 200 yards
| | |of hills at back; a well enough
| | |chosen position as regards
| | |covering road from Suakin. A
| | |narrow and short defile on extreme
| | |left affords an exit, and khor
| | |again widens somewhat.
| | |
_El Matar | 1½ | 105½ |A hole scooped in ground, good
(well)_ | | |water a few feet down, enough for
| | |half battalion at present, but
| | |could be quickly increased by
| | |digging other holes. Camp ground,
| | |grazing, and fuel here. Track now
| | |bends to left and crosses neck
| | |between two old graveyards.
| | |
_Abd El Haabit| 1½ | 107 |Two wells here, about ½ mile
(well)_ | | |apart, one on track, other ½ mile
| | |to left. The one on track a hole
| | |in khor, good water, limited
| | |supply, enough for about 100
| | |camels, before refilling in two
| | |hours. Other revetted stone, now
| | |dry, but could easily be reopened.
| | |
| | |All these four last wells in Khor
| | |Kokreb, which is wide, full of
| | |trees and shrubs, with stony hills
| | |here and there, many gazelle,
| | |doves and rock grouse. Track
| | |follows khor in all about 10
| | |miles, when it branches to right.
| | |
| | |Track now enters wide open plain
| | |of black stone, but good going,
| | |bare but for few stunted mimosa,
| | |and coarse patches of grass.
| | |
| 5 | 112 |Stone ceases, and firm sand takes
| | |its place.
| | |
| 2½ | 114½ |Track bends to right among patches
| | |of huge boulders.
| | |
| | |Directly after entering Agortitweb
| | |Plain, a black hill, surmounted by
| | |what appears to be two tower-like
| | |masses of rock, makes an excellent
| | |landmark, as tracks leads straight
| | |on to it.
| | |
Lagag Aweb[4] | 1½ | 116 |Above-mentioned landmark is
(called by | | |passed, it lies to left of road,
natives half | | |and on close inspection becomes a
way to Berber)| | |smooth, oval base of rock, with
| | |irregular mass at approach end,
| | |while other block dissolves into
| | |two huge boulders, one with a
| | |considerable lean to east. Pass
| | |between this, which is called
| | |Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller
| | |rocky hill on right, is considered
| | |by natives as half way to Berber.
| | |
| | |Track now winds for 2 miles round
| | |base of low stony hills, crosses a
| | |neck, then on left a strip of
| | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa,
| | |bearing away to left, while hills
| | |on left also spread away. For some
| | |way further, track winds along
| | |base of hills on right, when they
| | |also spread away, and the stony
Wadi Yungul or| 2½ | 118½ |plain called Wadi Yungul is
K. Yomga | | |reached, going good. Good camp
| | |grounds, but indifferent grazing,
| | |and no water or fuel in Wadi
| | |Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track
| | |winds to right between low stony
| | |hills. A little over 1 mile and
| 6½ | 125 |narrow khor, with few trees and
| | |coarse grass, is crossed, then
| | |again winds through low hills. Two
| | |connected hillocks of white marble
| | |being a prominent feature
| | |immediately to left of track.
| | |
| 3 | 128 |The Ariab valley is entered, it is
| | |thick with scrub and fair-sized
| | |trees, with numerous herds, goats,
| | |&c. The hills stretch away on
| | |either side. Natives report there
| | |is a well called Makardi off track
| | |to left under the hills, but that
| | |it gives but little water.
| | |
_Ariab[5] | 3 | 131 |Three miles up valley are Ariab
(well)_ | | |wells. One large stone-revetted in
| | |centre of khor, giving practically
| | |unlimited supply, excellent water.
| | |Water about 20 feet down. 150
| | |yards from this well are two
| | |others, also revetted, stone one
| | |gives plentiful supply, other
| | |partially choked for want of use.
| | |Good camp ground, grazing, water
| | |and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves,
| | |and rock grouse in valley. Track
| | |now leaves Khor Ariab on right,
| | |and goes south-west through black
| | |stone hills, low on right, high on
| | |left, somewhat bad going.
| | |
| | |Level plain, covered tufts coarse
| | |grass, half stony, half sandy,
| | |good going.
| | |
| | |Through low hills, rather bad
| | |going.
| | |
Wadi Barud | — | — |Wide level plain, covered coarse
| | |grass, good going.
| | |
Wadi O’Duruk | — | — |Level plain, good going, some
| | |coarse scrub, stunted trees.
| | |
| | |Track leaves O’Duruk on right and
| | |passes to left of, and immediately
| | |below, a high stone hill, across a
| | |small khor, and then winds among
| | |low stone hills.
| | |
Wadi Temartua | — | — |Good going, partly firm sand,
| | |partly stony.
| | |
Khor Laiameb | 44 | 175 |A broad khor running about east
| | |and west, almost at right angles
| | |to track. Said to contain pools
| | |after rain, about 4 miles to west
| | |of track. Small mimosa trees and
| | |coarse grass; water might be found
| | |if sunk for. Track after crossing
| | |Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly
| | |stony ground.
| | |
Jebel O’Fik | 2½ | 177½ |On right of track country open and
| | |level again, a few trees and some
| | |grass here.
| | |
Wadi Tatua | — | — |After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi
| | |Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c.,
| | |in khor; Obak can be seen in
| | |distance; good going.
| | |
| 5½ | 183 |Across a low ridge, going still
| | |good.
| | |
| | |Plain becomes covered with small
| | |mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through
| | |these bushes and Obak sandhills
| | |and drifts are entered.
| | |
_Obak (well)_ | 9 | 192 |Large new well, gives 2,000
| | |gallons when full; takes 10 hours
| | |to refill. Water slightly
| | |brackish. Natives say that there
| | |were formerly 50 or 60 of these
| | |wells, but have fallen in from
| | |want of use. Wells, revetted wood;
| | |water about 40 feet down.
| | |Indifferent camp ground, some
| | |grazing and fuel.
| | |
| | |For 3 miles after Obak track lies
| | |through heavy sand over hills and
| | |drifts, then good level going,
| | |only occasional sand.
| | |
| 14 | 206 |Some trees and grass here;
| | |suitable camp ground; water might
| | |possibly be found. Site of
| | |proposed well.
| | |
Jebel Eremit | 2 | 208 |A low granite hill on left of
| | |track.
| | |
Abu Odfa | 5 | 213 |Curious-shaped mass of rock on
| | |right of track.
| | |
Wadi Abu Selim| 21 | 234 |Some trees and grass; water could
| | |probably be found. Site of
| | |proposed well.
| | |
_Maho Bey | 11 | 245 |Good revetted well, 40 feet down,
(well)_ | | |covered by mud brick fort;
| | |excellent water, practically
| | |unlimited supply, good camping
| | |ground, fuel and grazing.
| | |
Berber | 6 | 251 |Except for first 3 miles all going
| | |from Obak to Berber excellent.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

SUMMARY OF WELLS ON NORTHERLY ROUTE.

-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
Name of well.|Distance| Description.
| apart. |
-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
| Miles. |
| |
Handub | 10[6]|Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.
| |
Otao | 9 |One well, hole in khor; good water could
| |be developed.
| |
Tambuk | 5 |Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited
| |supply.
| |
Dissibil | 19 |One well, good water hole in khor, at
| |present (1898) sufficient half battalion
| |and transport; could be increased at will.
| |
Tamai | 25 |In Khor Hareitri; well also by some
| |called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about
| |12 feet deep, good water; well itself
| |sufficient for half battalion and
| |transport, but supply easily increased.
| |Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one
| |very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3
| |miles from Tamai.
| |
Salalat | 11 |One and a-half miles to left of road, two
| |wells, revetted stone, one practically
| |choked. Good water about 40 feet down,
| |limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and
| |takes 2 hours to refill.
| |
Hayaba | 18 |Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met
| |immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good
| |water, supply practically unlimited, as
| |similar holes can be dug in very short
| |time.
| |
Sarbit | 1½ |In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet
| |down, revetted stone.
| |
Matar | 7 |Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water,
| |supply half battalion, but could be
| |developed. Former watering place of
| |Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.
| |
Id El Haabit | 1½ |Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half
| |battalion, could be developed.
| |
Ariab | 24 |One very large well, revetted stone, good
| |water about 20 feet down; two smaller,
| |also revetted stone, one now choked.
| |Water sufficient at present for one
| |battalion and transport, and could be
| |developed.
| |
Obak | 61 |One large stone revetted well, giving
| |excellent supply of good water.
| |
Maho Bey | 52 |Large stone revetted well, good water,
| |large supply.
-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------

(β)—BERBER TO SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).

The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.

Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.

A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.

For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.

(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, _viâ_ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, AND SINKAT.

BY MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, NOVEMBER, 1897.

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The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)Chapter III: (north-Eastern Sudan.) (1)

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