Chapter X: Part 10

This river Jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines, Jore, and Dan, which runne separated, till they come to the lake Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Jordan are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other in their courses: For Jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris runneth through the new Sodome; A history of such evidence, as travell taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will beg indulgence, of the Popes aureat magnificence.

The rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity not far different from other, which Jordan for greatnesse retaineth, and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water of Jordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke it, is an excellent remedy for the fever quartan or quotidian, being neare in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.

Considering the auncient reputation of this famous river, and the rare sight of such an unfrequented place, [A Turpentine rod brought from Jordan and given to King James.] I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and cut downe a faire hunting rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine tree, being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great paines, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrat from the sight of the company, upon this solitary tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friers and Souldiers removed; keeping their course towards Jericho: but within two furlongs from Jordan, they were beset with the former Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration, and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plaine, I saw them at a martiall combate: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatning of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, within the circundating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes: Or in prosecuting a reliefe, to be participant of their doubtfull deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Jerusalem, leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present, expel'd the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our Souldiers broke forth on horsebacke, being determined to kill mee for my staying behinde: Yea, and three times stroke at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed, I prevented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recovering the Guardians face, which when the Guardian espied, and saw my naked body, hee presently pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which meanes, (in the space of an [The Pilgrimes three severall habits in halfe a houre.] houre) I was cloathed three manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian: And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage, and a religious habit.

The Captaine at last entering in parley with the Arabs, by some contributing promises did mitigate their fury, for their compounded acknowledgement was to be sent them from Jerusalem: Whereupon, wee marching toward Jericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade, and dined there on the Wine and provision carryed with us.

After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was hee who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This new Jericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses, inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subjection under the Governour of Jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals, and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant, about a short quarter of a mile. [Two sorts of rare fruit.] Here I saw two most dainty kinde of fruites, the one was a little lesser then an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without, and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Suger. I would gladly have eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying; they were the onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Mellone; being both delicate and wholesome, of which wee did eate to satisfie the naturall appetite, and so did all our Souldiers eate of them excessively: their Trees growing high and greene by a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of Elizeus. From Jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse; our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ fasted forty dayes: Where arrived, being late, we durst not go up til morning. [Elizeus Fountaine.] Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountayne of Elizeus; the Water of which, was of old, naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet tast: It is good in digestion, and harmelesse for health: and it is the lightest water the earth yeelds: having on the morrow filled a Boares skin of it, to carry with me to the mountaine; I found it so light, that I had no weight nor paine in the bearing of it on my shoulders: notwithstanding, the way of it selfe was fastidious. This mountain is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation of my painefull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.

There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath beene hewen out of the Rocke, by the industry of men, experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up by the Degrees of forty five turnes. In all our Company there were onely one Frier, foure Germanes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine.

Thursday earely at the breach of day, we sixe made us for the mountaine, leaving our Souldiers to guard the passage below, least some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our Destruction. Where after diverse turnings, traversings, and narrow foot passages having come with great difficulty to the top, we entred first into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, [Where Christ fasted forty dayes.] where the Frier told us, that in this place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where he rebuked Sathan. The Chappel which covereth the top of this high and steepy Rocke is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: betweene the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this mountaine, two men may only go side to side: Here we dined and refresht our selves with water that I carried on my backe hither: From which place we saw the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Judea, Palestine, and Phenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea, and Deserta, and all the length of Jordan, even from Sodome to Maronah.

At last in our Returne and fearefull discending, there would none of us goe downe formost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards, yet first downeward for his life hee durst not goe: and that because at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some where twice my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing but dimples and holes to receive our feete, which in discending was perillous. [Dreadfull danger in descending the Quarantatam.] Now the greatest danger, at every turne, was in the downe going of the formost, who was to receive, them all, one by one, and foote their feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed, his sliding downe had miscarried them both over the Rocke.

Now for the noble Germanes sake, two of whom were great Barens, Signior Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the Marquesse of Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went, receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their feete by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine armes: Well, having past halfe way downewards, wee came to the most scurrile and timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty, I set safe the foure Germanes in our narrow Rode hewen out of the craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence hee comming downe from above, with his Belly and face to the Rocke, holding his hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was placing his feete in the holes, distempred feare brought him downe upon me with a rushling hurle: Whereuppon straight I mainly closed with my left arme his body fast to the Rocke, keeping strongly my Right shoulder to the same place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and letting him fall, but hee would have caught mee headlong with him, over the Rocke: And yet the Germanes cryed still to me, Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo con il Diavolo, e salva caro fratello la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell, and save, O deare brother, your owne life: But I neyther would nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him, I suffered him to slide softly downe betweene my arme and the Rocke, to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe uppon his knees, and gave mee a thousand Blessings, vowing for this, he would doe me a great good deede before I left Jerusalem.

At last towards the afternoone, wee safely arrived at the foote of the Mountayne, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the Rest, who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friers, did imbrace me kindly in their Armes, giving me many earnest and loving thankes.

And now the Souldiers and wee being advanced in our Way, as wee returned to Jerusalem, wee marched by an [S. Jeromes Abbey.] olde Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelt, and was fed there by wilde Lyons: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee arrived at Jerusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Monastery, wee supped, and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe Day, more as 34. miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the Friers, were making themselves ready to goe with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, called Sancto Salvatore; where wee were to stay Good-friday and Satturday, and Easter-Sunday till mid-night: They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Dyet, carrying Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruites hither in abundance. Meane while, a Jew, the Trench-man of the Turkies Sanzacke, came to the Monastery, and received from every one of us Pilgrimes, first two Chickens of Gold, for our severall heads, and entrey at Jerusalem: and then nine Chickens a peece for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chicken of golde a man, to himselfe the Jew, as beeing due to his place.

[Our tributs for the Holy Grave.] Thus was there twelve Chickens from each of us dispatched for the Turke: And last one, and all of us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickens also for the Waxe Candles and fooleries hee was to spend, in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies, these three aforesayd nights, which amounted in all to every one of us, to foureteene Chickens of gold, sixe pounds sixe shillings starling. So that in the whole from the sixe Germanes, foure French men, and nine Commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria, Venetians, and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty sixe pounds starling.

This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes, ready to receive us, sitting in the Porch without the Doore; who foorthwith opened at randone the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively: We being within the doore made fast, and the Turkes returned to the Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an yron Reuele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed; after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles Joseph of Arimathea, was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay: from thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained within this glorious edifice.

[The Holy Grave.] The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell, standing within a round Quiere, in the west ende of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries: As we entred the first doore, three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two roomes are wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (he sayd) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, we saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion, offered up his prayers to God.

The Sepulchre it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three foote five inches broad, being covered with a faire Marble stone of white colour.

In this Chappell, and about it, I meane without the utter sides of it, and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere, there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes, who stand most of them within incircling bandes of pure Gold, which is exceeding sumptuous, having the names of those, who sent or gave them, ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another, with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof was sent thither by King John of England, whereon I saw his Name, his Title, and crowne curiously indented, I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was; but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof, which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts of it should alwaies remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance, betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my pases: [The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.] This Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15. couple of Marble Pillars, and of 22. foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar wood, covered with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree. The Chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East: to the great body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.

The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like unto that auncient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the top, with a large round; which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place.

In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast of Easter day, being about 6000. persons: from this curious carved Chappell we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary; To which we ascended by twenty one steps, eighteene of them were of Marble, and three of Cedar-wood: where, [The beauty of Mount Calvary.] when we came I saw a most glorious & magnifick roome, whose covert was supported all about with rich columnes of the Porphyre stone, and the oversilings loaden with Mosaick worke, & overgilded with gold, the floore being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster and black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformd rocke, all covered with thicke and ingraven boords of silver; and in it a hole of a cubits deepe, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the good & bad theeves, were then put to death with him. Discending from Mount Calvarie, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Jerusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the Servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Maisters head had beene crowned with thornes; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:

[Two famous Sepulchers.] Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, quitotam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat in pace.

And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.

Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus
Spes patriæ, Vigor Ecclesiæ, Virtus, utriusque;
Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.
Cæsar, Ægypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus;
Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.

The other things within the Church they shewed us, were these, a Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our Saviour was bound, when he was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place in a low Celler, about fourteene stone degrees under the ground, where the Crosse was hid [Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.] by the Jewes, and found againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thornes, which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garment; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse, being laid along upon the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which (as they say) rent at his crucifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers, and set one peece a foote from another, for the slit lookes, as if it had beene cleft with wedges and beetles. And yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rocke, but the Temple that did rent in two from the bottome to the top, wherein these silly soule-sunke Friers are meerely blinded, understanding no more than leying traditions; perfiting this their nationall Proverb;

Con arte, et con inganno, ci vivono medzo l' anno
Con inganno et con arte, ci vivona l' altera parte.

With guile and craft, they live the one halfe yeare
With craft and guile, the other halfe as cleare.

And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to shew us where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtfull, that I doe not register them for trueth (I meane in demonstrating the particular places) but onely relates them as I was informed.

There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and language, who continually (induring life) remaine within this Church, having incloystered lodgings joyning to the walls thereof: their victuals are brought dayly to them by their familiars, receiving the same at a great hole in the Church-doore; for the Turkes seldome open the entry unlesse it be when Pilgrimes come, save one houres space onely every Saturday in the afternoone, and at some extraordinary Festivall daies: and yet it doth not stand open then, but onely opened to let strangers in and shut againe: [Seven religious Families.] For this purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church doore, the end whereof hangeth outwardly, By the which commodity, each furnisher ringing the Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come receive their necessars, for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore, and returne from it, to the cloyster.

The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about three hundred and fifty persons, being Italians, Greekes, Armenians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians, and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia.

The day before the Resurrection, about the houre of mid-night, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Orientall (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Jerusalem) convened together, which were about the number of sixe thousand men, women, and children: for being separated by the Patriarkes in two companies, they compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands burning Candles, made in the beginning pittifull, and lamentable regreetings, but in the ending, there were touking of kettle-drummes, sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dauncing, leaping, and running about the Sepulcher, with an intollerable tumult, as if they had beene all mad, or distracted of their wits.

Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere simplicitie, wanting civilitie, and government. But the Turkes have a care of that; for in the middest of all this hurley burley, they runne amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with cruell stroakes: and so these slavish people, even at the height of their Ceremonious devotion are strangely abused.

But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a greater regard, because of our tributes: The Turkes meane while guarding us, not suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular dottage of the [An abhominable Idolatry.] Romish folly, being after this manner: First the Guardian, and his Friers brought forth of a Sacrastia, allotted for the same purpose, the wodden Portracture of a dead Corpes, representing our Saviour, having the resemblance of five bloody Wounds, the whole body of which Image, was covered with a Cambricke vale: Where having therewith thrice compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave, it was carried to mount Calvary, and there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oyle, Balme, and Odoriferous perfumes.

Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friers kneeled downe, and kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turkes meanewhile laughing them to scorne in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence they returned, and layd the senselesse blocke uppon the Holy Grave, whence being dismissed, the Papall Ceremony ended.

Truely hereupon, may I say, if the Romane Jesuites, Dominicans and Franciscans, there Resident in certayne speciall parts of the Turkes Dominions, had onely behaved themselves as their polliticke charge required, and dismissed from the Paganisme eyes, onely their idolatrous images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like externall superstitious Rites: These Infidels I say, had long agoe (without any insight of Religion) bene converted to the Christian Faith. For besides all this blindnesse, what infinite abhominable Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spaine; in clothing the Pictures of dead Abbots, Monkes, Priors, Guardians, and the better kind of officiall Friers and Priests, with robes of Sattin, Velvet, [Damnable and intolerable superstition.] Damas, Taffaty, long gownes and coules of cloth, shirts, stockings, and shoes: And what a number of livelesse portrayed Prioresses, motherlesse Nunnes, yet infinite mothers, be erected (like the Maskerata of Morice-dancers) in silver, gold, gilded brasse, yron, stone, tynne, lead, copper, clay, and timber shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: over-wrought with silke, silver, and gold-laces, rich bracelets, silke grograine, and cambricke vales, chaines, smockes, ruffes, cuffes, gloves, collers, stockings, garters, pumpes, nose-gayes, beeds, and costly head-geire; setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for gods, in kneeling, praying, & saying Masses before them: Yet they are none of their avowed, allowed, and canonized pontificall Saints: for although they be bastards & wooden blocks, yet are they better clad, then their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings daughter alive. Which is a sinfull, odious, and damnable idolatry; and I freely confesse at some times, and in some parts I have torne a peeces those rich garments from their senselesse images and blockes, thinking it a greater sinne not to do it than to stand staring on such prodigall prophannesse, with any superstitious respect, or with indifferent forbearance to winke at the wickednesse of Idolaters.

Here the Guardiano offered for ten peeces of gold (although my due be thirty Chickens sayd he) to make me Knight of the holy Grave, or of the order of Jerusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition of that detestable oath I behooved to have sworne; but I saw two of these other Pilgrimes receive that Order of Knighthood.

[The Knights of the Holy Grave.] The manner whereof is thus: First they bind themselves with a solemne vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope, King of Spaine, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receive their maintenance; and also in speciall, for the French King, by whose meanes they obtaine their liberty of the great Turke, to frequent these monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Romane Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearely some stipend unto the Order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a gilded spurre on his right heele, causing the yong made Knight stoope downe on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this he taketh a broad sword from under his gray gowne (being privately carried for feare of the Turkes) which is (as he sayd) the Sword, wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered Jerusalem, and giveth this new upstart Cavaliero, nine blowes upon the right shoulder. Loe here the fashion of this Papisticall Knighthood, which I forsooke.

Indeed upon the Knight-hood they have certaine priviledges among the Papists, of which these are two: If a malefactor being condemned and brought to the Gallows, any of these Knights may straight cut the rope and releeve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silkes through all Spaine and Italy, or elsewhere, and pay no Custome, neither in comming nor going, nor for any silke ware, where the Romish Church hath any commandement.

After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies, upon Easter day, before midnight, we returned to the Monastery, having stayed three dayes within that Church: And the next day thereafter, the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning backe to their severall Stations.

About sixe of the clocke, on monday morning, the Padre Viccario, and the aforesayd John Baptista accompanying us, we travailed abroad in the hilly Countrey of Judea. In this dayes journey, the places of any note we saw were these: [Certaine relicts of Monuments.] First, where the Daughters of Jerusalem came foorth to meete Saul, crying, Saul hath slaine his thousand, and David his ten thousand: And for memory of this standeth a certayne olde pillar of Marble. Next, the valley of Trebin, where David slew the great Goliath. And for remembrance of that, there are a great heape of stones layd together in the bottome of the valley, like to the Relickes of an old monument. Thirdly, Bezura, where Absalom killed his brother Ammon for Thamars sake, whereof nothing but the name is onely reserved.

[Emaus.] Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, now altogether ruinated, except only three fire houses of Moores; in which our Saviour was knowne after his Resurrection, by the two Disciples in breaking of bread; where now the remanents of that house being vaulted, is turned over for a shelterage to sheepe; and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goates.

Fifthly, the Valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sunne stood still, at the voice of Joshua, from his naturall course. Joshua 10. 12.

Sixtly, the Toombe or buriall place of Samuel, that divine Prophet of the Lord: over the which the Moores have a Moskque erected, wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found one of the finest Fountaines in all Judea, and yet not a dwelling house neere unto it by three miles, in regard of the sassinous and infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light, sweete, and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombes of the valiant Captaine Judas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are now onely the ruines of an old Chappell, which is converted in a [The buriall place of the Kings and Queenes of Israel.] hould for Sheepe and Goates: And last of all, the buriall place of the noble Family of the Kings and Queenes of Israel, or Jerusalem, being neere unto the Citty, and within a short halfe mile. The entry whereto was so straite, that on our backes we behoved to slide downe, above ten paces under the ground, with light candles in our hands.

In that spacious place we saw twenty foure Chambers hewen out of a Marble Rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of tenne thousand cannot know how these doores have bene made, so to move as they do, being a firme Rocke both below and above; and the doores have neither iron nor timber-worke about them: but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the most curious Carpenter cannot joyne a peece of boord so neatly, as these stone doores joyne with the Rocke. In each of these roomes are two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.

Thursday, the tenth day of my being at Jerusalem, not reckoning the two dayes we spent in going to Jordan, the weeke before: We I say, ishued forth of the Citty earely, with our aforesayd guides, riding Westward: The first remarkeable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suffered: being reserved by Greekes, who have a Convent builded over it: That Crosse is sayd to have bene of foure sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they shewed us but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have bene of one peece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched, by the pregnancy of riper judgements then mine, howsoever opinious.

[The leying vilany of a Rogish Greeke.] And here I cannot forget a dissembling knavish Greeke, who came here to London some eight yeares ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassadour intertained him; and recommended his cause to our politicque power: A contribution is granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled, besides the severall acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers: Oportunity come, I rancountred with this counterfeit Rascall in White hall: Whereupon diverse Gentlemen his Majesties servants, desired me to try him, if he had bene at Jerusalem, or dwelt at the Cloister of the holy Crosse: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood, he replied within Jerusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false, for the Convent is remote from the Citty, about three English miles: I posed him further about the situation of Jerusalem, &c. The quantity of this Cloyster, of its Church, of the number of Friers, who lived in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be tedious: To any one of which, he could not reply, but stood shivering for feare and shame; neither had he never bene in Asia nor these parts: whereupon stealing out of the Court, he was no more seene abroad: for he had got at Court, and in the Kingdome, above twelve hundreth pounds starling, besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was a tricke, that then the Spanish faction put upon us and themselves also being deceaved by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit, policy, and lyes.

About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountaine of Judea, where we saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of Saint John Baptist dwelt, when Mary came up from Galilee to salute her; and neare to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary, wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Elizabeth was delivered: Two miles further, on a Rocky Mountaine, [Saint John the Baptists Cave.] we arrived at a Cave, wherein (say they) S. John did his pennance till he was nineteene yeare of age, after which time, he went downe and dwelt at Jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a Rocke, to the which we mounted by twelve steppes, having a window cut through a great thicknesse of firme stone, whence we had the faire prospect of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto, gusheth forth a most delicious Fountaine.

Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountaine, from whence we saw the most part of Judea; and to the Westward, in the way of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits land, lying also betweene Egypt and Jerusalem: This cloudy height, is called the mountaine of Judea, because it over-toppeth all the rest of the mountaines, that circumviron Jerusalem, Palestine, Galilee, Phenicia, or Samaria. Descending on the South side of the same Hill, we arrived at Phillips Fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch of Æthiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some certaine Madins unto the Moores of the Village, for accoasting the place, and drinking of the water: So did we also for the sight of every speciall Monument in Judea.

At night, we lodged in Bethleem, in a Monasterie of the same Fransciscans of Jerusalem, being onely sixe Friers: After Supper we went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was borne; over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea, the most large and royall workmanship that for a Church is in all Asia, or Affricke, being decored with a hundred and fifty Pillars. But before we came where the Crub had beene, we passed certaine difficile wayes; where, being arrived, wee entered in a gorgeous roome, adorned with Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster stones; and there they shewed us [Christs Crub at Bethleem.] both the place and the resemblance of the Crub: over which were hanging lampes of pure Gold, and within their circles oyle continually burning. Not farre from that place, and within the body of the admirable Church, they shewed us the part, over the which the Starre stayed, that conducted the three Wise-men from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ, and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Cave without the Towne, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by the Angell) She and Joseph fled downe into Ægypt with the Child.

In this time of her feare, say they, the milke left her blessed breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but Shee praying to the Almighty, there came forthwith abundance, which overflowing her breasts, and falling to the ground, left ever since, as they alledge, this consequent vertue to this Cave.

[Admirable dust.] The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any Liquor, to a Woman, that after her Child-birth is barren of Milke, shall forthwith give abundance: which is not onely availeable to Christians, but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come from farre Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seene the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to have the force of a strange vertue: Of the which earth I brought with me a pound weight, and presented the halfe of it to our sometimes Gracious Queene Anne of blessed memory, with divers other rare relicts also, as a Girdle, and a paire of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly wrought in silke and gold, having this inscription at every end of them in golden letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word Jerusalem, &c.

Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twenty Moores to conduct us unto [Salomons Fish-ponds.] Salomons Fish-ponds, which are onely three, being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the water in a stone-Conduit, along the Mountaines, that serveth Jerusalem, which worke was done by Salomon. The Ponds being hewne out, and made square from the devalling face of a precipitating mountaine; through which the streame of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the Ponds till it come to its owne aquadotte.

Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through the valley of Hebron, where Jacob dwelt, and entered into the fields of Sychem, where Jacobs Sonnes kept their fathers Sheepe; and not far hence, they shewed us a dry Pit, which they called Josephs Pit, that was at Dothan; wherein he was put by his Brethren, before they sold him to the Ismaelites.

In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desart of Ziph, wherein David hid himselfe, when he was persecuted by King Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Sheepheards. Unto all which parts our Moorish guard and John Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to Bethleem, where we stayed the second night.

[The Towne of Bethleem.] Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in all Judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from Jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white Wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about Jerusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day following, the Viccario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in which (sayd hee) was the Tombe of Rachel, Jacobs wife, who died in that place; as shee was travelling from Padan Aram, with her husband Jacob.

The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in travelling. We saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body; as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed us the place, where the Starre appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.

Approaching Mount Sion, we saw a quadrangled dry pond; wherein (say they) Beersheba the Wife of Urias, was Washing, when David looked forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust, gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation; and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was bewitched by her beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and godlinesse decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in the bloody lists of Murther and Adultery.

Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, [King Davids pallace.] we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which hath beene one of the Angles of the ancient Citty; and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North part of mount Syon, even to the valley Jehosophat, and so Eastward, being now filled up with fragments of old walles; and the valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of Sion, till it joyne also with the narrow valley of Jehosophat, which invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Jerusalem. Neere to this demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seene the blessed Messias, sayd: Now Lord let thy Servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seene thy Salvation.

And now lastly uppon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friers, and John Baptista (because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they) Peter after his deniall of Christ his maister, wept bitterly.

Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley Gehinnon, [Acaldema.] and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to the devalling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are invironed with a natural rocke, and the fourth square bordering with the valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is covered, and hath three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe; for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe, I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding sheets, and newly dead, lying one above another in a lumpe; yeelded a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.

Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a darke Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foote of the same valley, we came to [Ponto Nehemia.] Ponto Nehemia, in which place the Jewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives to Babylon; walking more downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat, we saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Jewes made a sacrifice of their children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot, they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them: and least their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundring noise with drums, and other instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Jer. 7. 31. Hence we came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from the City above, running straight to the valley of Jehosophat; and there we saw also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this we saw a fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash the Babes clothes and linnen clouts. From thence we crossed the [Brook Cedron.] Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the valley of Jehosophat) and is alwaies dry, unlesse it be in December, when the raine falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is all the winter they have in these parts: during which time none may labour, nor travell, but forced to keepe themselves within houses: Having past I say this Brooke wee came to the Tombes of Absolon and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. James was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Jewes. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the way of Bithania, wee saw these places, where Judas hanged himselfe, over which there is a vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory of his selfe murther, and hard by they shewed us where the withered Figge tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone dyke; and halfe a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Lepar.

[Lazarus Tomb in Bethania.] Arriving at Bithania, we saw the Castle and Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from the grave, after hee had beene 4. dayes dead. It is a singular and rare Alabaster Tombe, and so exquisitely done, that it excelleth (Jerusalem excepted) all the monuments in Judea, erected for the like purpose, being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed house where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say they) when he sayd to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.

Leaving this moorish Bithania, being now a Village of no qualitie, we returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.

From this place wee had the full prospect of Jerusalem: For the City standing upon the edge of a hill, can not be seene all at one sight; save on this Mountaine, which is two times higher then Mount Sion. These are the Monuments shewne us upon the [Mount Olivet and the Places of note thereof.] Mount of Olives: First, the print of the left foote of our Saviour, in an immoveable stone, which he made when he ascended to Heaven; the Guardiano told us further, that the right footes print was taken away by the Turkes; and detained by them in the Temple of Salomon: But who can thinke our Saviour trode so hard at his ascention, as to have left the impression of his feete behind him.

Next the place where hee foretold the judgement to come, and the signes, and the wonders, that should be seene in the Heavens before that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine chamber under the ground, like a Church, having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an agony, when hee sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, James, and John slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them; and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixtly, the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ used commonly to pray; in the which place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and it was also where Judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on the ground. Seventhly, they shewed us a stone marked with the Head, Feete, and Elbowes of Jesus, in their throwing of him downe, when as they bound him, after hee was taken, and ever since (say they) have these prints remained there.

And lastly, at the foote of mount Olivet, in the valley of Jehosophat, we descended by a paire of staires of forty three steppes, and sixe paces large, in a faire Church builded under the ground: Where (say they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did show it unto us, whom (they thinke) was borne in Jerusalem, dwelt at Bethleem, and Nazareth, and dyed uppon mount Syon. [Sacred and singular Tombes.] I saw also there, the Sepulchers of Joseph her husband, Joachim her Father, and of Anna her mother. And for which sights paying sixteene Madins a man, to certaine Moores: we returned to our Monastery againe night to repose us, having seene all the Antiquities and places of note, were to be seene, in, and about all Judea.

Loe, I have plainely described all these Monuments, by the order of these twelve severall dayes: The like heretofore, was never by a Travailer so punctually, so truly, and so curiously set downe, and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I sayd in the beginning of my Description, so say I now also at the Conclusion, some of these things are Rediculous, some of manifest untruths, some also doubtfull, and others, somewhat more credible, and of apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used, as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman John Baptista.

Now in Jerusalem, wee eleaven Frankes stayed three dayes longer, preparing our selves for a new Voyage to go downe to Egypt with a Caravan of Grand Cayro: In which time the aforesaid Frier Laurenzo, whose life I had saved on the Quarantanam, propined me privatly with twelve Crosses made of the Olive Wood of mount Olivet: Each Crosse having 24. Relickes indented in them, with fourty paire of Chaplets made of that same Wood, two Turkish Handkerchiefes, and three paire of Garters and Girdles of the Holy Grave: All wrought in silke and Gold, with diverse other things, &c. Which were not so thankfully received, as they were thankfully given, by a gratefull and unforgetfull Frier. Meanewhile, the last day of our staying there, we went all of us Friers and Pilgrimes in againe to the Holy Grave, where we remained al night. Earely on the morrow there came a fellow to us, one Elias Areacheros, a Christian inhabitour at Bethleem, and purveier for the Friers; who did ingrave on [The Armes of Jerusalem.] our severall Armes upon Christs Sepulcher the name of Jesus, and the Holy Crosse; beeing our owne option, and desire: and heere is the Modell thereof. But I, decyphered, and subjoyned below mine, the four incorporate [King James his foure Crownes.] Crowns of King James, with this Inscription, in the lower circle of the Crowne, Vivat Jacobus Rex: returning to the fellow two Piasters for his reward: I fixt these lines for King James.

Long may he live, and long may God above
Confirme, Reward, Encrease his Christian love:
That He (blest King of men) may never cease
To keep this Badge, the sacred Prince of Peace;
And there's the Motto, of His Maiden Crowne,
Hæc nobis invicta miserunt, ne're wonne.