Chapter IX: Part 9

Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. [Two Arabian Kings.] There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And the other was hee to whom I payd this money wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth good pastorage, and fresh Fountaynes. These two Kings are mortall enemies: and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly, bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their followers: For it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, beeing untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet all the rest of that night, after his returne from us, wee still expected some treacherous surprise, which made our souldiers stand stoutly on their guard, and wee Pilgrimes to our vigilant and naked defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, heere was my present resolution:

The more I am beset, with dreadfull snares
Begirded round, in shelfie gulfes of wracke;
And shipbroke left, on rockes of deep despaires,
Where helples care, with tortring thoughts me racke:
Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end,
That time will change, and God will better send.

And now by the way I recall the aforesayd Turke, the maister of the Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him, and he suspecting the contrary, was councelled by his associats to beate me soundly, and dismount my Victuals and Water from the Mules backe, till I propined him with the rest, which intention being by me understood; I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgell, and my better safety procured: Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled, and an inward grudge suddenly conceived, for it was the smoake, and not my selfe he respected.

Loves whirling fancies, mortals fondly feed
As marish rootes dissolve, even as they breed:
An humane creature, inhumanely taught,
Is worser given to ill, than evill fraught:
Things in themselves, be not so bad as ill,
The cause exeemd, corruption hath free will:
Mans fraile affection, is a cloudy mist,
Whose vapours fall, and fogge, as passions list:
Bad counsell's worse, than nature ill applies,
Weake judgment dulls, when feare in reason flies:
Thus sad ecclips'd, the darke ecclipsed Moone
Did change, ere mine ecclipsed light was wonne.
At last the Sun-shine, of my silver day,
Came crawling on, as snailes advance the way.

The next morning, when the hopefull Aurore, had fore-showne the burning birth of glassie Thetis, and that Orient majesty arising to overcirculate the earth, then marcht we along in our way, and before mid-day pitched our haire-cloth Tents round about [Jacobs Well.] Jacobs Well, neare the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and overwhelmed with mountaines of sand: we found this auncient Well so wondrous deepe, that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water: The taste whereof was wondrous cold & sweet, & for Jacobs sake the whole number of us, drunke more of it, then neede required: The fiery face of Phoebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion, that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and foure broad: and all that afternoone, wee had exceeding pleasant travailing; and at night we incamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles from the ruinous Towne of Cæsarea by the sea side, and is now called by the Turkes and Moores Alferron, being a Village only of sixteene Moorish Houses. Heere Peter healed the man sicke of the palsie.

[The Sea-port Townes of the Holy Land.] The Townes scituated by the Sea side in Phoenicia, Palestine, and Judea, are these: Sydon, which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, beeing a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere or Prince of the Drusians: who beeing the off spring of the Christians, which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, discended into these parts, do still maintayne their liberty against the Turkes: The Signior whereof being threatned by the Great Turke, fled to Cosmus Duke of Florence, Anno 1612. leaving his two Sonnes behind him, the eldest to keepe Sydon, and the younger to remaine in a strong Fortresse, on the west end of mount Libanus: The elder brother foorthwith yeelded to the great Turke, the signory of his Lands, but the younger would never do it, and so retayneth absolutely the Countrey of Libanus to this day, making himselfe thereupon, a mountainous Monarchicke Prince. Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre or Acon, that hath yet some indifferent trade of Merchandize, called formerly Ptolomeis: Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an auncient Abbay: Cesarea, who reserveth but onely the memory of ruines, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it be to savage Moores: Joppa or Japhta, is a Sea-port of small Barkes, but the decaied Towne, contayneth not one dwelling House, save onely a high Tower, which defendeth the Port from Cursares: Here Jonah tooke ship to flye from God: Here Peter raised Tabitha or Dorcas, from Death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the Tanner, was in a vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And Baruti famous for so many Christian armies that have besieged it, is now composed of eight hundred fire houses: Lying North-east of Sydon under mount Libanus, formerly called Julia Foelix, nigh unto which (as fabulous stories report) S. George delivered the Kings Daughter, by killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Canaan, standing in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the best inhabited place of all the holy Land, Sydon and Jerusalem excepted.

Saturday morning before the breach of day, setting forward from Lydda, through the curling playnes of fat-fac'd Palestine, scarcely were wee well advanced in [A dreadfull conflict.] our way, till wee were beset with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights an unexpected shoure of Arrowes, to the great annoyance of all our Company: For if it had not beene, that our Souldiers shot off their Gunnes on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bowes and Arrowes for our defence, we had then miserably, in the midst of their ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike to the Jackals: For when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse, they presently turne backe with such speed, as if the fiendes of the infernall Court were broken loose at their heeles.

In that momentary conflict, on our side there were killed nine Women, five men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy Armenian Captayne, and to the rest of our Heathnish Conductors bred no small griefe: the mourning noyse among the multitude, beeing also wondrous pittifull. Till bright day came, we stayed still in that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austiere fortune: and at our departure thence, wee buried the slayne people in deep graves, whereby Jackals should not open up their graves, to eate their Corpes: For such is the nature of these cruel beasts, that they onely love to live on mans flesh: these ravenous beasts (as is thought) are ingendred of a Foxe and a Wolfe.

Proceeding in our journey, we entred about two of the clocke in the afternoone, in the hilly Countrey of Judea, having two of their courses to Jerusalem, which is about twenty English miles: [The Towne of Rhama.] leaving Rhama on our right hand, which contayneth some two hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from Joppa, from which it lyeth in the way to Jerusalem: Here remayneth the Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrimes to Jerusalem, which land at Joppa, each Pilgrime paying seaven Chickens of gold, is furnished with an Asse to ride on, all the way tributes, at going, and comming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom they resigne this tributary money.

Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores: not blacke Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kinde of Egyptians, and not naturally blacke, but Sunne-burnt, with the parching heate. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these Moores, some Turkes, civill Arabs, and a few Christians and scattered Jewes. The Arabians are for the most part Theeves and Robbers, the Moores cruell, and uncivill, hating Christians to the Death: the Turkes are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworne enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gayne by strangers: O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable Villaines, whose outsides onely they seeme to affect: but intirely the insides of their purses: & that is their ayme, and forcible end: wherefore they both toyle with all, and Conduct strangers through many perils, as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies: Time discussing all, and mony over-mastering time; for Coyne is the thing they must have, though necessity sometimes may not spare it.

About foure of the clocke before night, wee arrived at [Beersheba.] Berah, called of olde Beersheba, being eleaven miles distant from Jerusalem. Having a little reposed there, giving our Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for our selves, from these despightfull Moores, (for what wee carried with us, was all spent) except a little Water: wee imbraced our Mountaynous way, as cheerefully as wee could, for wee were exceeding faint, and travailed that day above forty three miles; whereby wee might arrive at Jerusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drouth, burning heate, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveniences.

And now about halfe way betweene Berah and Jerusalem, I, and two Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. Wee I say, unhappily rancountred with foure Moorish fellowes, driving before them sixe Asses loaden with Rootes, and shrubs of Wood to burne: who seeing us, as they thought alone, layd hands upon us, robbed us of our pocket monies: whereat [A grievous danger.] I resisting, one of them pulled foorth a broad knife, and holding me by the Beard, thought to have cut my throate, if it had not beene for one of his fellowes, who swiftly stayed him.

Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Souldiers instantly appeared unto us; whereupon wee shouting, the Moores fled to the Rocks, and our foot Souldiers following, apprehended two of the chiefest, and brought them to the Captaine: One of which had my money, which I presently received backe againe, but mine associates money, was with them that escaped: the Captaine and Janisaries, meane while carried the two Moores along with them, thinking to execute them at Jerusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on Horse-backe, and on foote, relieved them from the Caravan, restoring backe againe the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moores were exceeding glad, and wee nowayes discontented: for if they had not bin redeemed, certainly their friends and followers, who were thicke flocking together, would have cut us all off, before wee could have attain'd to Jerusalem.

At last wee beheld the prospect of Jerusalem, which was not onely a contentment to my weary body, but also beeing ravished with a kinde of unwonted rejoycing, the [A joyfull harmony.] teares gushed from my eyes for too much joy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fashion, Psalmes to praise the Lord: and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way, till we arrived neere the wals of the Citty, where wee ceased from our singing, for feare of the Turkes.

The Sunne being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrivall, wee found the Gates locked, and the Keyes carried up to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the Company, being all both hungry, and weary: yet the Caravan intreated earnestly the Turkes within, to give us over the Wals, some victuals for our money, shewing heavily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not, neyther durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remayneth there to receive Travailers of Christendome, who having got newes of our late arrivall, came and demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society, and he sayd, onely one. Then the Guardian called mee, and asked of what Nation I was of, and when I told him, hee seemed to be exceeding glad: yet very sorrowfull for our misfortune.

[A deare nights Supper.] Hee having knowne my distresse, returned, and sent two Friers to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke a great fine, being a hundred Piasters, thirty pounds sterling: otherwise both hee and I had beene beheaded: which I confesse, was a deare bought supper to the Gray Frier; and no lesse almost to me, being both in danger of my Life for starving, and then for receiving of food, therefore suspected for a Traytor: For the Turkes alleadged, he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray the Citty: this they doe oft, for a lesser faulte then that was, onely to get Bribes and mony from the Grey Friers, which daily stand in feare of their lives.

Anno 1612. upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, wee entred into Jerusalem, and at the Gate wee were particularly searched, to the effect wee carried in no Furniture of Armes, nor Powder with us, and the poore Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turkes,) behoved to render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the feare they have of Christians. And my name was written up in the Clarkes Booke at the Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulcher, might bee payed at one time together, before my finall departure thence.

The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each Gate are brazen Ordonance planted, for their defence.

[A foolish ceremony.] Having taken my leave of the Caravan, and the Company, who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke, I was met and received with the Guardian, and twelve Friers upon the streetes, each of them carrying in their hands a burning waxe Candle, and one for mee also: who received mee joyfully, and singing all the way to their Monastery Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoyced, that a Christian had come from such a far Countrey as Scotia, to visite Jerusalem.

Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Roome, and there the Guardian washed my right foote with water, and his Viccar my left: and done, they kissed my feete, so did also all the twelve Friers that stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke, it sore repented them of their Labour. I found here ten Frankes newly come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germanes, noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull glad to heare me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Romane Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance, all foure being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them beeing Venetians, who were all glad of me, shewing themselves so kinde, so carefull, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentle-men, as ever I met withall, especially the Germaines: Such is the love of strangers, when they meete in Forraine and remote places. They had also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East, and beyond Jerusalem: troubling me all the while wee were together, to show them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia: And were alwayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my long Peregrination.

THE SIXTH PART

Now come my swift pac'd feete, to Syons seate,
And faire Jerusalem: heere to relate
Her sacred Monuments, and these sweet places,
Were fil'd with Prophets, and Apostles faces:
Christs Crub at Bethleem, and Maries Cave,
Calvar, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave:
Deepe Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch'd Tombe,
Sunke Lazars pit, whence hee rose from earths wombe:
Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake
Which orient folkes do still for Sodome take.
Thence view'd I Jordan, and his mooddy streames,
Whence I a Rod, did bring to Royall James.
The lumpe falne Jerico, and th' Olive Mount,
With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont:
The Arabian desarts, then Egypt land
I toyling saw, with Nylus swelling strand:
Where for discourse, the seaventh part shall thee show
What thou mayst learne, and what by sight I know,
Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch'd bounds,
That twice a yeare, in growth of graine abounds.

Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering [Jerusalems antiquity.] it was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus, 2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David, also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; [The foure hills of Jerusalem.] as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward, almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion, bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multipotent City, by [The triumph of Titus.] Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

[The overthrow of Jerusalem.] This City hath beene oft conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly, by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity, with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. [The Garrison of Jerusalem.] There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time, when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius, and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: [A notable observation.] And at the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned, (being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne, and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke, 1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand of them: They are also innumerable over all the Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke, unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile, and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.

[The Jewish Kings.] The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.

[Dukes of Jewry.] The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene, of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods, and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.

The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. [The Machabean Princes.] Of the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey; & the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius Cæsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio, and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

[Christian Kings of Jerusalem.] The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost, or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept, then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he, and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places: And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall [The ignorance of Travellers.] conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances, and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe, be evanished and transported.

About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage: accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians, which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne: And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater performance of their foolery.

[A superstitious Ceremony.] The rediculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees, and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David, blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred, Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies which we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please) onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes, tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in [A flattering beggary.] general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation, as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.

Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd: Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority: From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.

[Caiphas Lodging.] Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas, without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem, in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath, representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute, than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place, where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon: Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified, carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. [Pilats judgement Hall.] Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem having beene so often transformed by alterations.

This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah, and shewed us the place where [Abrahams faith.] Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem, for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because [Mount Sinay.] mount Sinay standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne, and to S. John behold thy mother.

Ascending more upward, they shewed us the house of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her doore, all in a sweat to Mount Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received, and gave it to her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be seene at Rome. It is also sayd to be in a Towne in Spaine, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia: wherefore I beleeve the one, as well as the rest.

So out of one, if Papists can make three
By it, they would denote heavens Deitie:
But O! not so, these three revolv'd in one,
Points forth the Pope, from him his tripled Crowne
He weav'd these Napkins, leying reard his seat,
For which this number, makes his number great.

[The Temple of Solomon thrice builded & destroyed.] As concerning the Temple of the most high, built by Salomon (the description of which edifice yee may read in the 3. of Kings) it was destroyed by Nabuchodanezzar, at the taking of Jerusalem, Anno Mundi, 4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded againe by the commandement of Cyrus King of Persia, after the Jewes returned from the Captivity of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the former: For besides the poverty & smalnesse of it, there wanted five things which were in the other: First, the Arke of the Covenant: Secondly, the pot of Manna: thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly, the two tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly, the fire of the Sacrifice, which came downe from Heaven, which were the Symboles and badges of Gods favour and mercy showne to them and their fore-fathers in his covenant of Love.

This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the great, (that killed the young Infants for Christs sake, who suffered for him, before he suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For this Herod the Ascolonite, was an Edomit stranger, or Idumean, who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses; and created King of Jewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these people to be offended therewithall, to procure their favour did [Herod the Idumeans Temple.] build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August, on which day likewise the first Temple, was burnt by Nabuchodanezzar. And lastly there is another great Temple builded in the [Selim Solimans Temple.] same place, by Sultan, Selim Soliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.

This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high wals, having two enteries: In the inner Court standeth the Temple, that is composed of five circling and large Rotundoes, rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.

These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Jerusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one hundred souldiers, sixty horse-men, and forty foot-men, to take with him the day following, for his conduction to Jordan, and the mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his usuall custome once every yeare betweene Palme-sunday and Easter, returning againe before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed, save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the souldiers, unlesse he give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as a propyne) unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings starling: and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, he may stay there till their returne, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly he may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome, and Jordans sake. That same night after supper, the Guardian demanded of us Travellers, if we would goe with him to see these memorable, & singular things, upon the former condition: To whom we answered, in a generall consent, we would, and so payed our moneyes.

[A voyage to Jordan.] Earely upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrimes being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and two Mules loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from the City, about our nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and Bithania on our left hand, wee had pleasant travelling for seaven miles; but in the afternoone wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and the beasts, wee reposed till two houres within night. After that the Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away: we set forward, being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entred into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and fabulous soile.

In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neyther house, nor Village, for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wilde Beasts, and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by seaven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it, before wee could arrive at that place of Jordan which wee intended) we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted, wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through on my feete, relieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pilgrimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but not for lacke of Wine. Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine, (the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed, [A fearefull danger.] and invaded us with a storme of Arrowes, which they sent from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing the advantage of the ground: they tooke opportunity to give the more feareful assaults: yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valourous Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore fatigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night.

A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and wee leaving our troublesome way, we accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Jordan. This Lake is called Lacus Asphaltites, it yeeldeth a kinde of slime, named Bitumen Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no living thing can indure. And now Mare mortuum, a sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for that no living thing breedes therein: and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmoveable, such is the Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if a Bird flye over it, shee presently falleth downe therein dead: And as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisdom. 10. 7. it smoaketh continually: from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields, lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably Record.

[The length of Sodoms Lake.] This Lake is foure score miles in length, and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three, foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof, bending directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the austiere conspicuosity of the sabulous and stony Desarts: beeing compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the North, with the sandy hils of the Wildernesse of Judea: on the West, with the steepy mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plaine of Jericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the fresh running flood of Jordan, falling evermore into this bounded Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neyther hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backewards on the plaine of Jericho, which is one of the greatest wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have sayd, it must needes eyther exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise runne downe to Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts, it would soone bee knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300. miles; there is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the Red sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable; in regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the exterior Æthiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner, obscuring themselves under Rockes, mountaynes, and planures, for many miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.

[The doubtfulnes of Jordans ending.] But as for this River, the question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five Citties of the plaine, now overwhelmed with Water; or where was the issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty, that rained downe from the Heavens fire and Brimstone to consume them, able also, to drowne their situations and intervalling plaines with water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many Citties, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water: nay innumerable, and so remayning to this day, place, beauty, and being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superabounding disgorgings.

It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling of Jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediatly dye. Although Josephus witnesseth, that in his time, there was an Apple grew uppon the Bankes thereof, like to the colour or gold, and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary: For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath beene in his dayes) as eyther Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to Sodome by three miles: such is the consumation of that pestiferous Gulfe.

[Wrong informations made false.] Divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or Carkasses of Beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands made sundry trials; and dare approove it to be of trueth, in spight of the leying world, and all doting varieties of auncient Relations.

The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terrour in it, as I was informed at Jericho, by the Arabian inhabitants there, which is the neerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.

This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodome, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion, I hold it to be the Purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum, is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodome and Gomorra, which was with fire and Brimstone, to their destruction.

About the breach of day on Wednesday morning, we past by the ruines of an old house; where (as they say) S. John the Baptist remained, when he baptized those that came from Jerusalem, and other Regions about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Jordan.

Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and [The River Jordan.] uncloathed our selves, going in naked to the River, we washed us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as pledges of our lives, and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences: Time presenting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of S. John, when the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and there was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne, in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side; whereupon are ingraven letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing: and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.