Chapter XI: Part 11

Which when the Guardian understood, what I had done in memory of my Prince upon that Sacred Tombe, hee was greatly offended with me, that I should have polluted that Holy place, with the name of such an Arch-enemy to the Romane Church. But not knowing how to mend himselfe, and hearing me to recite of the Heroick Vertues of our matchlesse Monarch: who for Bounty, Wisedome, and Learning, was not paragonized among all the Princes of the earth: His fury fell; and begun to intreate me, to make it knowne to his Majesty, that hee never allowed any support to their afflicted lives, neyther any gratuity for maintayning of those Sacred Monuments at Jerusalem, his subjects being as free here as they. Which indeed I performed, for after my arrivall in England, and having propined his Majesty with diverse rare things, and a Turpentine rod from Jordan; in the midst of my Discourses, I told his Highnesse, in the Privy Garden of Greenewich, the Guardians request. Who indeed gave me a most gracious answere, saying, They never sought any helpe of him, and if they had, he would have supported their necessity. Bidding farewell to the Church of St. Salvatore, and being re incloystred againe, after breakfast, the reckoning of Stridor Dentium came to us, [Of English money.] for 17. dayes diet, being to each man six shillings a day, amounting for my part to 5 pounds two shillings. Then the Guardians Secretary, presented me my Patent under their Great Seale; & that cost me 3. Chickens of Gold. The beginning whereof I recall, although the principall, [The Discourse of the Seale is in the page following.] be lost in the Inquisition of Malaga, was thus: Frater Gaudentius Saybantus ordinis minorum regularis observantiæ Sancti Antonii Dei & Apostolicæ sedis gratia, Sacri montis Sion Guardianus, Terræ sanctæ gubernator & custos; ac in partibus orientis Apostolicus Commissarius, salutem in Domino sempiternam. Notum vobis facimus, &c. The Contents whereof, reciting all the memorable things I saw within the Holy Land, there was thereunto annexed their Great Seale, sticking fast, or locked in upon the lower face of the Parchment, the impression whereof, had the Effigies of the twelve Apostles, and Christ in the midst: having this Circumscription about: Magnum sigillum Sacri montis Sion Guardianus. The model whereof is affixed in the former page.

Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Interpreter to reward, every one of us propining him with two Chickens of gold: And lastly wee gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cymerian Cooke, and his Ætnean face, with a Chicken of gold the man, from each of us: amounting in all among the foure Catzocullioni, to twenty foure pounds fifteene shillings sterling.

Nay this was not all; for even when the Ægyptian Caravan, was staying for us without the City, the Guardian [Greedy and flattering Friers.] made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our bounties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses, and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other base & flattering speeches: which indeed nine of us refused, because of the great Extortion he had imposed uppon us before; but the two Germane Barons gave him the value of sixe English pounds, or there abouts.

And now finally, or I leave mount Syon, I thinke it not amisse, to give the itching Travailer a frozen stomacke, who perhaps soweth Words in the Wind, conceptions in the Ayre, and catcheth Salmond swimming on Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed within the Wals of Jerusalem, not reckoning my journall expences and tributs else where abroad; arising to eighteene pounds sixteene shillings starling: And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and imaginary inventions: And it may serve also, to damnifie the blind conceit of many who thinke that Travellers are at no charges, goe where they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false, as an hereticall errour. May the twelfth, and the eighteene day of my staying there, about mid-day, the other ten and I joyned with the Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Ægypt, and to furnish the rest Camels or Dromidories to ride upon, (for I would never ride any) for nineteene Piasters the man, discharging us also all tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way; and so we marched through the South-west part of Judea towards Idumea, or the Edomits land; and meane-while I gave [The Authors good night to Jerusalem.] Jerusalem this goodnight, &c.

Thrice sacred Sion, sometimes blazd abrode,
To be the Mansion, of the living God;
For Prophets, Oracles, Apostles deare
And godly Kings, who raisd great glory here:
Where Aarons rod, the Arke, and Tables two,
And Mannaes Pot, fire of sacrifice so
From Heaven that fell: were all inclos'd in Thee
Containing neare, what not contaynd could be:
To thee sweet Sion, and thine eldest daughter,
Which Titus fiercely sackt with Jewish slaughter:
And to thy second birth, raisd to my sight
I prostrate bid, thy blessed bounds goodnight:
Next for the Holy land, which I have trac'd,
From end to end; and all its beauty fac'd;
Where Kings were stall'd, disthron'd, defac'd, renown'd,
Cast downe, erect'd, unscepterd, slayne, and crown'd:
The land of promise, once a Sea of Oyle
Whence milke and honey flowd; yea, too a soyle
Where men, and might, like miracles were raisd
Sprung from a Garden plot: A wonder praisd
Above conceit: whose strength did farre excell
All other lands; take thou my kind farewell.
And last Franciscan Friers, O painted Tombes!
Where vice and lust lurke low, beneath your wombes;
Whose hearts, like Hell, doe gape for greed of gold,
That have Religion, with your conscience sold,
To you I say a poxe, O flattering Friers!
And damn'd deceivers, borne & bred for Leyers,
Whose end my purse implores; O faithlesse fellowes!
And leaves you for your paines, curst Hamans gallowes.

Having bid farewell to Syon, we marched that afternoone in the way of Gaza; and arrived at night in a [Kind Jewes to us Franks.] goodly Village, more full of Jewes than Moores, called Hembaluda, situate on the face of a fruitfull hill, and the last limit of Judea: Here the Germanes and I were well intertained gratis, by certaine Jewes that spoke Italian, and much rejoyced to see such strangers in these bounds, for two of them had beene borne in Venice: The Captaine, and our company were all Ægyptians, all of them being Christians, called Copties, viz. beleevers: Their number was about eight hundred persons, who had come up from Ægypt, to dignify for devotions sake this Easter time, being the great feast of Jerusalem; Of whom by the way we received great affability & kind respect without any offence.

That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within the Towne making merry with our Hebraick friends, earely the next morning wee imbraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land sorely distressed by the Arabs, and yet the Inhabitants were subject to the Turke: In this long dayes journey we found abundance of water, and all other necessaries for our reliefe, and yet the people were both rude & extreame barbarous, having no more show of humanity then the foure footed Leopards of Berdoa.

The Dutch Gentlemen grew affrayed at these savages, as being unacquainted before with such an awful sight; and to dispell their feare, tush sayd I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flashd over these lines in Italian to them;

To gallant mindes, all kind of soyles they be,
Their native land; as fish imbrace the Sea:
For they who would traverse earths variant face,
Must take their hazard, as they finde the place;
And that's my soyle, best meanes can me defray,
But Sirs be glad, wee came not here to stay.

[The auncient City of Gaza.] Againe night we declined towards Gaza, and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the whole Caravan, Souldiers, Camels, Dromodores, Mules, and Asses were all well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan or market place, and there furnished our selves with provision of Bread, Hens, Egges, Garlicke, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry us through the desarts being ten dayes journey. Gaza now is called Habalello, and is composed of twelve hundred fire-houses, and sensible against the incursions of Arabs: The ruvid Cittizens, being Turkes, Moores, Jews, domeseticke Arabians, with a few Georgians, & Nostranes.

There is a Garrison here of Souldiers, and a Turkish Captaine, that commandeth the Towne and Castle: In the afternoone, we set our faces forward to that fearefull Wildernesse, and travailed or night twelve miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our Guard, kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the Germanes from langour, cherishing them with joviall merriments, for they were my inward friends, yet of a faint and fearefull nature. At the breach of day we set forward, passing through diverse Rockey and shrubby heights, till afternoone, and then wee declined to a sandy valley: Where when come, what with the deepnesse [Burning Sands.] of the Way, and the great heate reflexing upon the sand, and from the Sand to our faces, we were miserably turmoiled, especially I, who went alwayes on foote.

Having past this wearisome bottome, and before night marching along the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broake out upon us from holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrowes, till a contribution of sixteene Piasters was sent to them. The halfe of that night we pitched our Tents, in a pastorable [Wild Arabs selling water.] plaine, where some scattering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden Cups, carrying it in Wilde Boare skins upon their naked backes. Two of which Savages our Captayne hyred, to guide us the next day to the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turkes, and a dayes journey distant one from another; beeing each of them strongly guarded with Souldiers, and that for the reliefe of Caravans, being the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Desarts.

Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest places of the Country, where we found certayne profitable parts, planted with haire-cloath tents, and over-cled heere and there with spots of Sheepe and Goates: and yet were we not there without the invasion of stragling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the Captaine defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so at Jerusalem. Before night with great heat, and greater drouth, we approached to the first Castle, where the Captayne thereof received us kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the Quadrangled Tower. Here we had abundance of Water (though I would rather have had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawne out of a Cisterne, and reposing safely uppon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us, and our guard watched them.

[Grievous and desertuous travelling.] Thence with a new Guide the sequell morne, we marched through a fiery faced plaine, scorch'd with burning heate, and deepe rolling Sand, where diverse of our smallest Beasts perished, with sixe men and Women also in relieving their overwhelmed Asses. Long or midday, having got to a hard height, we pitched our Tents, reposing under their shaddowes till the evening, for wee were not able to indure the intollerable heate of the Sun; and so did wee likewise over-umbrate our selves every mid-day. The vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced forward to the middle Castle, being led by our Guide, and the pale Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, wee found neyther that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captaine so humane as the other was: Here wee were all offended with the scarcity of Water, the Captayne playing the Villaine, crossed us, because the Caravanship were Christians; at last about mid-night some 30. Arabs, came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backes. To whom we payed for every Caraff, beeing an English quart, three Aspers of silver, ten Aspers going to a shilling: Whereof my kinde Dutch-men drunke too much, the Water being thicke and of a brounish colour; and hot like pisse, offended their over-wained stomackes; which as I supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.

After mid-night, the Turkish Captaine, and our Caravan fell at variance, about Water to our Beasts, who were ready to choake, and if they had not bin prevented with Souldiers on both sides, it had drawne us and them, to a finall mischiefe. The discord unpacified, before the following day, and within night, we imbraced our wilsome and fastidious Way, journying through many dens, and umbragious Caves, over-shaded with mouldring heights; [Savage women having their Child-bed in Caves.] in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in their Barbarous child-bed: having their bodies naked (the fore-face of their Wombe excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, and over-spread with leaves a foote thicke; whose new borne Babes lying in their armes, were swadled with the same Leaves. And for all their sicknesse, which was very small, they had none of our Wives sugred sops, burnt Wines, Venison pasties, Delicate fare, and great Feasting, nor a moneths lying in, and then Churched, putting their husbands to incompatible charges. No, no, their food is onely Bread, Garlicke, Hearbes, and Water, and on the third or fourth day, in stead of their Churching, they goe with Bowes and Arrowes to the fieldes againe, hunting for spoiles and booties from passing Caravans.

Advancing in our course, we fell downe from the hils in a long bottome of Sand, above sixe miles in length: Wherein with sore Wrestling agaynst the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch our Tents to over shade us; three of our Germans, the two Barons, Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio, tumbled downe from their beasts backes starke dead, being [The death of three Germane Gentlemen.] suffocated with the vigorous Sunne, for it was in May, choaked also with extreame drouth, and the reflection of the burning sand; and besides their faire was growne miserable, and their Water worse, for they had never beene acquainted with the like distresse before, though it was alwayes my vade Mecum. Whereupon the Caravan staied and caused cast on their Corpes againe, on their owne beasts backes, and carrying them to the side of a hard Hill, we digged a hollow pit, and disspoyling them of their Turkish cloathes, I did with my owne hands cast them all three one above another, in that same hole, and covering the Corpes with mouldring earth, the Souldiers helped me to role heavy stones above their grave, to the end, that the bloody Jackals should not devoure their corpes; and to conclude this woefull and sorrowfull accident, the other Germanes alive bestowed on me their dead friends Turkish garments, because of my love and diligent care I ever did show them; which one of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cairo.

Whence with diverse assaults, and greater paines, accoasting [The third Castle of the desarts.] the third Castle, with as great bewailing the losse of our friends, as we had contentment in our owne safety, we found this third Captayne both humane and hospitable: Who indeede himselfe in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a speciall care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captayne and us eight Frankes before supper, with three roasted Hens, and two Capons: This Turkish Captayne told us there were three inhabited Townes in these Desarts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on the Red Sea, having a harbor and shipping, that Trade both to Ægypt and Æthiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffes and Spices which they transport from Meccha, and carrie to Melinda, and the afore-sayd places in Affricke: But now least I sinke in Prolixity, discoursing of sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverbe, Chi troppo abbracio, nulla stringe, viz. That he who would imbrace too much, can hold nothing fast. I decist from this Journall proceeding, and punctuall Discourse of my laborious Pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader (I having layd open more than halfe of the Wildernesse) may (like that learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foote on the Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraicture of his whole body thereby) easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequell sight of these Desartuous places; and therefore the rest, I will onely Epitomize in generall till mine arrivall at Saleack on the Confines of Ægypt.

[The bounds of the three Arabias.] Arabia is bounded on the West, with the Red Sea, and the Ægyptian Istmus: On the North with Canaan, Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian gulfe, Caldea, and Assiria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea: This Countrey lyeth from the East to the West, in length about 900. and some 3500. miles in compasse. The people generally are addicted to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanicall or Civill, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on foote, scelerate, and seditious, boysterous in speech, of colour Tauny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry: Notwithstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare Belly, their food also semblable, to their ruvid condition, and as savagiously tame (I protest) as the foure footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not valourous, nor desperate in assaults without great advantage, for a 100. Turkes is truely esteemed to be sufficient enough to incounter 300. Arabs. Their language extendeth it selfe farre both in Asia, and Affricke, in the former, through Palestine, Syria, Mesopotamia, Cilicia, even to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Ægypt, Libia, and all the Kingdomes of Barbary even to Morocco.

This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandred forty yeares long, being fed with Manna from Heaven, and with water out of the driest rocks: In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of the two [The scurrile Arabian Desarts.] Tables was promulgated. The most part of these Desarts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage, being covered over with a dry, and a thicke Sand, which the wind transporteth whither it listeth, in heapes and mountaines, that often intercept and indanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here are few, so are their Cities, their dwellings being in sequestrate dennes and haire-cloath Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth in Camels Dromidories, and Goats.

Before our arrivall in Saleak, we passed the little Istmus of ground which parteth Asia, and Affrica, disjoyning the Mediterranean and the red Seas: Divers have attempted to digge through this strait to make both Seas meete for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King of Ægypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch: Thirdly, another Ægyptian King, who drew a ditch 100. foote broad, and 30. and odde miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was forced to cease, for feare of overflowing all the lower land, the red Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the ordinary plaine of Ægypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts, and fastidious, because of sands to passe over.

At Saleack we overtooke a great Caravan of two thousand people, and twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware of Aleppo, and come from Damascus, intending their voyage for Cayro, whose company we subtilly left, & marchd before them, for receiving of water by the way for our selves, and beasts out of Cisternes, which we left dry behind us.

[The nature of Camels and Dromidores.] A Dromidore, and Camel differ much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth, and length; save only their heads and feete, which are proportionated alike; and the difference is such, that the Dromidory hath a quicke and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80. miles in the day, if that his rider can indure the paine. But the Camell is of a contrary disposition: For he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the one foote from the other, as though he were weighing his feete in a ballance; neither can he goe faster although he would: But he is a great deale more tractable then the other: For when his maister loadeth him, he falleth downe on his knees to the ground, and then riseth againe with his burthen, which will be marvailous great, sometimes 600. or 800. weight.

The red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas: The reason for which it hath beene called Mare rubrum, is only because of the bankes, rushes, sands & bushes that grow by the shore side, which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect of the Brookes, which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing the true sense, tooke Seas, for Rivers.

It is vulgarly tearmed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is 1600. miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous passage of the Israelites through it, and the drowning of Pharaoh and his people: and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through all Europe and the Mediterren coasts of Asia and Affrick: But this Navigation is now discontinued by the Portugals, English, and Dutch; which bring such Wares to their severall homes by the backe side of Affricke: So that the Trafficke [Indian Spices much weakned.] of Alexandria is almost decayed, and the Riches of the Venetians much diminished; so is the vertue of the Spices much impayred by too much moisture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.

This afore-sayd Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses, being Walled and fensible against the Arabs, and defended also with a Castle, and ten troupes of Horse-men being Janizaries. Here we rested and refreshed our selves two nights, providing us fresh victuals for Grand-Cairo, being foure dayes journey distant; and at our leaving of Saleack, I saluted this new seene Countrey, with a greedy conceit of more curiosities.

THE SEAVENTH PART.

Now well met Egypt, so our fate allots,
For we have appetite, for thy Flesh pots;
But (ah!) the Season, is too hot to eate
Of any viande, Kid, Mutton, or such meate:
Yet for thy Coffa made of Coave seede,
We'le kindly drinke it, feed upon thy bred
And fat our selves, with thy best hearbes and fruits
For like, to our faint stomackes, best besuites:
Then mighty Kingdome, once the Royall Land,
Where Kings were first erect'd, did longest stand;
And letters, Hyeroglophicks, Magicke Arte,
Astrology, had first inventions part.
For wonders, the Piramedes: Balme more good!
The weeping Crocadile, Nyles swelling flood;
Deaths funerall Mommeis; the Sea-horse bred
At Damieta: the Sphynx with grandure cled:
And where base Fortune, play'd the errand whoore,
In making meane men great, and great men poore:
In thee, I'le dive, though deep is thine old ground,
And further far, then I can search or sound:
Yet when men shoot, O all the marke doe eye;
But seldome touch't; enough, if they come nye:
Even so must I, for neerer I'le not claime,
The best director, may mistake his ayme.
But as the Land is now, I hope I shall
Cleare hardest doubts, and give content to all.
Thence sought I Malta, Ætnaes burning flame,
And stately Sicile, Gibels greatest fame.
Whence passing Italy, the Alpes I crost,
And courting France, told Time, how I was tost.

Departing from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which is our twelve miles, wee reincountred with infinite Villages on both hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificiall Channels drawne from Nylus; and these Fabrickes, onely made up of Wood or Bricke, being one or two Stories high. The Captaine, in diverse parts at our mid-dayes reposing, was constrayned to buy water from the Egyptians, to satisfie the Company: yea, and that same night, the first of foure, or we came to Cayre, at the Village of Bianstare, he payed five Sultans of gold for Watering all us and the Beasts, amounting to thirty five shillings sterling.

The next day journying towards a goodly Towne, named Saliabsteck, we travailed through a fruitful planure, fraught full of fruite Trees, and abounding in Wheate, [Two seasons of riping graine in Egypt.] Rye, and Barley, being new cut downe, May 14. For this was their first Harvest, the Land yeelding twice a yeare Cornes; and the latter, is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continuall Summer, and notwithstanding of the burning heate, it produceth alwayes abundance of Fruites and Hearbes for all the Seasons of the yeare: So that the whole Kingdome is but a Garden, having ever one Fruite ready to be plucked downe, and another comming forwards; or like to the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some Reape, some are growing greene, others budding forth, and some still in the floorish: Even so is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Ægypt; which although the Country be not often troubled with Raine, yet the rank serene or dew of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kindes of growing things: betweene Saliabsteck, and Cayre, being two dayes journey: We Francks, bad farwell to water, and drunke daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coave, which being taken hot, and is ever kept boyling within Fornaces in earthen pots, it expelleth the crudity of fruites and hearbes so much there frequented.

Arriving at last in this little World, the great Cairo, and bidding farewell to our Caravan, the three Germanes and I, lodged with one Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other foure French men, going to their owne Consul, a Marseilian borne and there stayed. Here with this Venetian for three dayes, the Dutch men and I had great cheare, but they far greater a dayly swallowing downe of strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I intreated them to forbeare, but they would not be requested. The season being cruell hot, and their stomacks surfeited with burning wine, upon the fourth day long or noone, [The last three Germanes death in Cayre.] the three Dutch men were all dead; and yet me thought they had no sicknesse, the red of their faces staying pleasant, their eyes staring alwayes on mine, and their tongues were perfit even to the last of their breath.

He who dyed last, and lived longest, was William Dierganck, who left me all his owne gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering me the keyes of their three Clogbags before the Consul, declared by his mouth that he left me absolute heire to intromet with all, and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoones the treacherous Consul, knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at Jerusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold, forgd a reason to himselfe and for his owne benefit, that he would meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would be answerable to their friends for it, at his returne to Venice: Well, I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for them all three in a Copties Chappell, where I interred them: paying to the Ægyptian Christians for that eight foote of ground, ten Sultans of gold, besides sixe Piasters for carrying their corps hither, being two miles in the City distant from the Consuls house. Whence, ere I had returned, the Venetian Factor seased upon all, and shuting his gate upon my face, sent me out my owne budget: Whereupon I addressed my selfe to the French Consul, Monsieur Beauclair, who kindly received me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged & oppressed by the other Consul; he straight sent for a Jewish Phisitian, his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day earely we went all three, and their followers to the Beglerbeg, or governour of the City: we soone complained, and were as soone heard: the Venetian Consul is sent for, and he commeth: where facing the Judge and [A favourable Turkish judgement.] pleading both our best, (for there are no Lawyers in Turky every man speaking for him selfe) the Bassaw with his Counsell upon sight of the keyes of their Clogbags in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and notwithstanding favouring the Factor) immediatly determined that I should have the two part of their moneyes, with all their Jerusalem relicts, and Turkish cloathes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is done, and irrevocable, upon which the Jewish Doctor, and I, with two Janizaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the Jew the keyes, the Clogbags were opened, and the money being told, it came just to 1424. Chickens of gold, besides certaine rings & tablets: The Jew delivered me my part, which came to 942. Chickens, the rest went to the inconscionable Consul, with the halfe of the rings & tablets: And packing up all the relicts, moneyes, clothes, and Clogbags, I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beauclair, and my fellow Pilgrimes, were very glad that I had sped so well, none of us all knowing what was in the Clogbags till they were sighted; & giving hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten peeces of gold to the Jew and Janizaries, I sup'd, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowfull for the losse of these gallant Gentle-men, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for familiarity and kindnesse, they were the mirrours of noble mindes, and vertuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to mee a Hell, and whose lives had beene my Paradice on earth. To whose memory and prayse, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their Heroicke dispositions, deserved at my hands.

But what shall I say, their time was come, which mortality might sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deafe to all humane lamentations. Neyther will I relye so much upon my owne worthinesse, as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my [Gods provident mercies.] Life, was by any merite of mine deserved, but that God so much the more, might show his incomprehensible goodnesse in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected accidents, and to tye my soule to be thankfull for his mercies. For all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are eyther perfited, or disanulled by his Determination: and nothing we possesse is properly our owne, or gotten by our owne power, but given us onely through his goodnesse and munificence.

And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we enjoy, and the excellent faculties wee are indued withall; or what we can do, say, or thinke, is onely raised, guided, and distributed, by Gods impenetrable Counsell, Will, and Providence: Which although the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attribution thereunto; yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such, that in it selfe, it proveth an eternall wisdome, and confoundeth the foolishnesse of the world.

[The great City of Grand Cayre.] This incorporate World of Grand Cairo, is the most admirable and greatest City, seene upon the earth, being thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous, but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plaine, and in the heart of Ægypt, kissing Nylus at some parts.

The City is divided in five Townes, first and formost, Cairo novo, the new Caire, which is the principall & chiefest place of all the other, lying in midst of the rest, having walles and Ports, the circuit whereof is 22. miles, contayning al the chiefe merchandise and market places within it.

The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Caire, called formerly Cairo de Babylonia or Babylon Ægyptiorum: for there were two Babylons, one in Assiria called now by the Turkes Bagdat, and the other is this that joyneth with the new Caire: It was also aunciently called Memphis, and was the furthest place that Ulysses in his travels visited, so well memorized by Homer: yet a voyage of no such estimation, as that princely Poet accounted it; for his travels were not answerable, to the fifteene part of mine.

The third Towne is Medin, joyning to the backe side of the old Caire, toward the Piramides: The fourth is Boulak, running a great length downe along and neare the River side, having three market places of no small account: The fift and last, is the great Towne of Caraffar, bending Southward, in the way of the red Sea for many miles: All which are but as Suburbs to the new Caire, that of many smalles make up a Countrey, rather then a City: And yet all of them are contiguat one with another, either to the left or right hand, or to them both, with innumerable streets: [The length of great Cayre and the bounds thereof.] The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak, to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deepe experience twenty eight English miles, and fourteene in breadth; for tryall whereof I troad it one day on foote from Sun to Sunne, being guided and guarded with a riding Janizarie, which for my bruised feete on the streets, was one of the sorest dayes journey that ever I had in my life.

The principall gates of new Caire are Babell Mamstek looking toward the Wildernesse and the Red Sea: Bebzavillah toward Nylus, and Babell Eutuch toward the fields: The streets are narrow, being all of them almost covered to save them from the parching heate with open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories high, composed either of mudde or bricke, and platforme on the tops; whereon usually in the night they use to sleepe to imbrace the fresh & cooling ayre. Their Bazar or exchange, beginneth at the gate of Mamsteck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.

At the corners of chiefe streets or market places, there are divers horses standing ready sadled and bridled, that for a small matter, or according to the way, a man may hire and ride so where he will, either to negotiat, or to view this spacious spred City, and change as many horses as he listeth, having the Maisters which owe them to convoy them for lesse or longer way, which is a great ease to weary passengers.

There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations, for by their concurring hither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers: for the Countrey aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe, Honey, and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, besides many other commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffes of cloth of gold and silver, and the best Sattins, Damas, Taffaties, and Grograines that are made in the world are here.

The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreame heate, is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: insomuch, that at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have dyed in one day: Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there dye but one, or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare, I meane, when the soare encroaching pestilence, which every third yeare useth to visite them, is rife here.

[Divers nations residing in Cayre.] In this Towne a Traveller may ever happily finde all these sorts of Christianes, Italians, French, Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, Syrians, Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Slavonians, captivat Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and their owne Ægyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turkes, tawny Moores, white Moores, blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians, Sabuncks, Berdoanes, Jewes, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian Sarazens. All which are Mahometans, and Idolatrous Pagans.

From the great Palatiat Mansion, where the Begler-Beg, or Vicegerent hath his residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the gardens and Villages bordering on Nylus, and a great part of the lower plaines of Ægypt. Their Lawes heere and Heathnish Religion, are Turkish and Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like unto their birth and breeding, beastly and Barbarous; being great Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abhominations.

The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom [The Egyptian decorements.] over, weare Rings of gold or silver, through the hollow of their noses, both endes of their mouthes, and in their under lips; hanging rich pearles, and precious stones to them; wearing also about their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort can not attayne unto, then they counterfeit their Betters, with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not worthy to live, unlesse they weare these badges.

They also use here, as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the like. They weare here linnen breeches and Leather bootes as the men do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gownes, wee would hardly know the one from the other. [The Egyptian Christians.] As for the Religion of the Copties or Ægyptian Christians, they are Circumcised, after the Judaicall manner, but not after the eight day, but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the Copties them selves say, they have their Religion from Prester Jehan, and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and the other.

They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other, thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and then on their breasts, and kissing them, the salutation is done.

[The Copties Religion.] They will not suffer no Images, nor Pictures to be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse, sayd in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia, for the reall Body and Blood of Christ: Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints, and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is commonly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the like, and all the people Orientall.

The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and Astrologians, and are yet [The nature of the Egyptian Moores.] indued with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat sloathfull, and given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable Companions; and no wonder, the Land being so plentifull, and their nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate affections. Neyther doe they live long, in regard of the great heate they indure. Ægypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attayne to threescore yeares of age.

In all this Land of Ægypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no running Well or Fountayne, save onely the River Nylus: Neyther do the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them, it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And yet for abundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with Ægypt; whereupon it was called in the time of the Romanes, as well as Sicilia, Horreum populi Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of are brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece. The defect being thus, these Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcoran, wil neyther plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting it a deadly sin to drinke Wine, but for Coffa, and Sherpet, composed Liquors, they drinke enough of.

[The Garden of Balsamo.] As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein it groweth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Janizary, they would not suffer me to enter, neyther any Christian, & far lesse the Jewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this Balme was brought to confusion; they having the custody of it for certayne yeares.

The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe, which being thrice in the yeare incised in the body and branches; it yeeldeth a red Water that droppeth downe in earthen Vessels, which is the naturall Balsamo.

And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, whereunto the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which dead bodies remayne alwayes unputrified, neyther yeeld they a stinking smell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day, by the whole Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought from thence, and doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.

Now having viewed, and review'd this Microcosmus of the greater World, the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did [The pyramides of Egypt.] hire a Janizary to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing beside or neare to the bankes of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller to the toppe, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part whereof, are five foote broade, or there abouts, and nine in length, beeing of pure Marble.

All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply Recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the Beholder, may testifie their excessive greatnesse and height. The first and East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis, or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide, having outwardly to ascend upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred foure score and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foote high, and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in height to the afore-sayde Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the broken degrees here and there: I was much ravished, to see such a large foure squared plat-forme, all of one intyre stone, which covered the head; each square extending to seaventeene foote of my measure.

It is yet a great marvaile to me, by what Engine, they could bring it up so safe to such a hight: But as I conceive it, they behoved certaynely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advanced the Worke, otherwise the Wit nor power of man, could never have done it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was stricken in admiration: For before wee ascended, or came neare to this Pyramide, the toppe of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contayned a hundred men.

[The greatest piramide of the three.] In the bottome whereof we found a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage, a foure angled Roome; wherein there was standing the Relickes of a huge and auncient Toombe, where belike hee that was the first Founder of this Pyramide was inclosed. From the top of this Pyramide, our Jannizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force, thinking thereby it should have fallen to the ground; but as we discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying uppon the steps, scarse halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle Pyramide, which a far off looked somewhat higher then the other two, but when we came to the roote thereof, wee found it not so, for the stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height, is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.

It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend upon, neyther hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such Masses, and (as it were) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were first called Pharaones.

Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops, who in this worke imployed 100000. men, [The charges of the greatest pyramide.] the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges of Garlick, Rootes, and Onions onely, came to 1600. talents of silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It is recorded by Josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses, that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were inforced to make, were partly imployed about the insides of these Piramides, whose outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father, desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second Piramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones, there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome in the time of her supreame domination.

Betweene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone, erected on a round Rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columne) above 815. foote, and of circuite, 68. Pliny gave it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it: but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve my selfe, it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire peece) the world affoordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders: Some say, that aunciently it was an Oracle, the which so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Egyptians, of any thing by them demanded.

In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the banke of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene in that River, whose body was twenty two foote long, and in compasse of the shoulders, eight foote, who thus was slaine: This beast for foure yeares together kept alwaies about one place of the River, being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him layd wast: and neverthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres; where here and there he would lurke waiting for his prey till ten, for longer from water he could not stay.

[A resolute Venetian Merchant.] This Venetian leaving his ship at Alexandria, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul my adversary of the great spoyle done by this beast: and herewith generously he undertooke to kill it, the Vicegerent licentiating him: Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner, and a peece of Ordonance to Cayre.

The next day in the afternoone, hee being well horsed, and accompanied with twenty Janizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles accustomary place, of forthcomming: where straight there was an Asse slaine, and hung up on two standing and a thwarting tree, with his open belly to the flood, and some twelve scorepaces therefrom: Behinde this carkasse, about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and levelld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of powder about the touch-hole, and above it a night-house to keepe the trayne dry from the nights serene: having a cock fastned thereto, and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner; wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head vayled with a wooden covert.

After this, and about mid-night, the Horse-men retired themselves two miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it, and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving his time, drew the string, [The killing of a great Crocodile.] and giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts: well, he is deadly wounded, and making a horrible noyse, the Gunner lay denned, and durst not stirre: meanewhile the beast striving to recover the water, tyred, and lying close on his belly there he dyed.

After the shot, the Horse-men drew neare, and finding the beast slaine, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstruous creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall, which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service, the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City 500. Sultans of gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely offered him, and he as freely refused.

Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low playnes of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually in the latter end of July; and continueth to the end of August: Which furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke of the vulgar Ægyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine, What (sayth hee) doe you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke. And now because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about [The true knowledge of the flowing of Nylus.] the flowing of Nylus, I will both show the manner and quality or cause of its inundation, and thus. There is a drye pond called Machash digged neare unto the brinke of the River, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteene Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the Ditch, whereby they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shal have plenty or scarcity of things.

Now betweene the River and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell, it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the pond, and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre, certayne of the Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred Janizaries, and pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time of the Inundation, they make great Feastings, rare Solemnities, with Dancing, Singing, toucking of kettle Drummes, sounding of Trumpets, and other ostentations of joy.