Chapter V: Part 5

Now what a selfe Losungeous fellow hath this fustian companion proved, when the flat contrary of his abjured impositions, is infallibly knowne to be of undoubted trueth. And how often hath Europe, the seat of Christendome, and Mistresse of the world, had the full experience in all her distressed corners, of the valiant, faithfull service, and unresistable valour of the people, of that never conquered Nation: the testimonies are evident, for my part I desist, and will not medle to peramble through peremptory inferences, on particular Kingdomes, although I acquitingly can; Howsoever a pertinacious Buffon dare, and falsely will doe it:

[Certaine replyes.] Each base fantasticke braine, dare forge
new stiles,
And alter Regions, customes, Townes, and Iles:
Strip'd in a bravad, he can joyne (disjoyne
Contiguat Kingdomes) distant lands in one;
First Broaker-like, he scrap's rags, snips and bits,
Then playes the Ruffian, shifting with his wits:
Last Serpent-like, he casts a winter skin,
And like a strumpet boldly enters in;
This charling Ape, with counterfeits and lies,
And blandements; would feede the worlds wide eyes:
Thus like a stupid Asse, this blocke-head Foole,
Must turne a Coxcombe, studying in the Schoole:
Would he be wise and exercise his braines
Goe travell first, experience knowledge gaines:
Dare he to write of Kingdomes, that ne'er saw
His fathers Oxe, perhaps the plough to draw;
And scarce can tell even of the bread he eates
How many frames it suffers, toyle, and sweats;
Nor ne'er ten miles, was travell'd from his cradle
Yet faine would sit, the steerd Pegasian sadle:
Whiles loytring in a Colledge, thus he dare
Sow lyes, reape shame, build Lottries in the ayre;
Goe doting Gull? Goe? blot away thy name?
And let thy labours perish with thy fame.

This Ile of Mytelena, is by the Turkes called Sarcam lying without the mouth of the gulfe of Smyrna, and opposite to the Westerne coast of Phrigia minor; where besides excellent Wine and Cornes, there are two sorts of dregs made there, which the Turkes use to put in their pottage: In Turkish the one is called Trachana, the other Bouhort, which the Romanes aunciently named Crimnon and Mazza. Whence Loosing from Mitylene in the aforesaid Carmosal, we touched at Dalamede, in the [The Ile Androsia.] Ile Androsia, the Northmost Ile of the Syclades toward Thessalia: It is indifferent copious of all things necessary for humane life, and round sixty miles: The Athenians of old (as Plutarch mentioneth) sent hither Themistocles to demaund tribute; Themistocles told them, he came to inflict some great imposition upon them, being accompanied with two Goddesses; the one was (Eloquence) to perswade them, and the other was (Violence) to enforce them. Whereunto the Androsians replyed, that on their side, they had two Goddesses as strong; the one whereof was (Necessity) whereby they had it not; and the other (Impossibility) whereby they could not part with that they never enjoyed.

This Ægean Sea, or mare Ægeum, had its denomination from Ægeus the father of Theseus, who misdoubting his sonnes returne from the Minotaure of Creet, here leaped in, and drowned himselfe: The greatest part of these sixty nine Kings, that Agamemnon tooke with him to the siege of Troy, were onely Kings of these little Ilands: By some they are divided into two parts, Cyclades, and Sporades; the former containing fifty foure, and the latter twelve Iles; modernely they are all cognominat Archipylago, or the Arch Ilands.

Hoysing saile from Dalamede, we set over to Nigroponti, being sixty miles distant, and bearing up Eastward to double the South Cape, we straight discovered [Two Turkish Galleots.] two Turkish Galleots pursuing us: Whereupon with both sailes and oares, we sought in to the bottome of a long creeke, on the West side of the Cape, called Bajo di piscatori; whither also fled nine Fisher-boates for refuge: The Galleots fearing to follow us in, went to Ankor, at a rocky Isolet in the mouth of the bay, and then within night were resolved to assaile us. But night come, and every night of sixe (for there sixe dayes they expected us) we made such Bonfires, that so affrighted them (being two miles from any Village) they durst never adventure it: Yet I being a stranger was exposed by the untoward Greekes to stand Centinell every night, on the top of a high Promontore, it being the dead time of a snowy and frosty winter; which did invite my Muse to bewaile the tossing of my toylesome life, my solitary wandring, and the long distance of my native soyle:

Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quærunt
Me Mare, me venti, me fera jactat Hyems.

I Wander in exile,
As though my Pilgrimage:
Were sweete Comedian scænes of love
Upon a golden Stage.
Ah I, poore I, distres'd,
Oft changing to and fro,
Am forc'd to sing sad Obsequies
Or this my Swan-like wo.
A vagabonding Guest,
Transported here and there,
Led with the mercy-wanting winds
Of feare, griefe, and dispaire.
Thus ever-moving I,
To restlesse journeys thrald,
Obtaines by Times triumphing frownes
A calling, unrecal'd:
Was I præordain'd so
Like Tholos Ghost to stand.
Three times foure houres, in twenty foure
With Musket in my hand.
Ore-blasted with the stormes
Of Winter-beating Snow,
And frosty pointed haile-stones hard
On me poore wretch to blow.
No Architecture Lo
But whirling-windy Skyes.
Or'e-syld with thundring claps of Clouds,
Earths center to surprise.
I, I, it is my fate,
Allots this fatall crosse,
And reckons up in Characters,
The time of my Times losse.
My destiny is such,
Which doth predestine me,
To be a mirrour of mishaps,
A Mappe of misery.
Extreamely doe I live,
Extreames are all my joy,
I find in deepe extreamities,
Extreames, extreame annoy.
Now all alone I watch,
With Argoes eyes and wit.
A Cypher twixt the Greekes and Turkes
Upon this Rocke I sit.
A constrain'd Captive I,
Mongst incompassionate Greekes,
Bare-headed, downeward bowes my head,
And liberty still seekes.
But all my sutes are vaine,
Heaven sees my wofull state:
Which makes me say, my worlds eye-sight
Is bought at too high rate.
Would God I might but live,
To see my native Soyle:
Thrice happy in my happy wish,
To end this endlesse toyle:
Yet still when I record,
The pleasant bankes of Clide:
Where Orchards, Castles, Townes, and Woods,
Are planted by his side:
And chiefly Lanerke thou,
Thy Countries Laureat Lampe:
In which this bruised body now
Did first receive the stampe.
Then doe I sigh and sweare,
Till death or my returne,
Still for to weare the Willow wreath,
In sable weed to mourne.
Since in this dying life,
A life in death I take,
Ile sacrifice in spight of wrath,
These solemne vowes I make,
To thee sweete Scotland first,
My birth and breath I leave:
To Heaven my soule, my heart King James,
My Corpes to lye in grave.
My staffe to Pilgrimes I,
And Pen to Poets send;
My haire-cloth roabe, and halfe-spent goods,
To wandring wights I lend.
Let them dispose as though
My treasure were of Gold,
Which values more in purest prise,
Then drosse ten thousand fold.
These Trophees I erect,
Whiles memory remaines:
An epitomiz'd Epitaph,
On Lithgows restlesse paines:
My will's inclos'd with love,
My love with earthly blis:
My blisse in substance doth consist,
To crave no more but this.
Thou first, is, was, and last,
Eternall, of thy grace,
Protect, prolong, great Britaines King,
His Sonne, and Royall Race.
AMEN.

Upon the seaventh day, there came downe to visit us, two Gentlemen of Venice, clothed after the Turkish manner; who under exile, were banished their Native Territories ten yeares for slaughter; each of them having two servants, and all of them carrying Shables, and two Gunnes a peece: which when I understood, they were Italians, I addressed my selfe to them, with a heavy complaint against the Greekes, in detaining my Budgeto, and compelling me to endanger my life for their goods: whereupon they accusing the Patrone, and finding him guilty of this oppression, belaboured him soundly with handy blowes, and caused him to deliver my things, carrying me with them five miles to a Towne where they remained, called Rethenos, formerly Carastia, where I was exceeding kindly entertained ten dayes: And most nobly (as indeed they were noble) they bestowed on me forty Chickens of Gold at my departure, for the better advancement of my voyage, which was the first gift that ever I received in all my travells. For if the darts of death had not beene more advantagious to me, then Asiaticke gifts, I had never beene able to have undergone this tributary, tedious, and sumptuous peregrination: The confluence of the divine providence allotting me meanes, from the losse of my dearest consorts gave me in the deepnesse of sorrow, a thankefull rejoycing.

[The Ile Nigroponti.] Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, next, Albantes: and is now surnamed the Queene of Archipelago: The Turkes cognominate this Ile Egribos: The Towne of Nigropont, from which the Ile taketh the name, was taken in by Mahomet the second; Anno. 1451. and in this Ile is found the Amianten stone, which is said to be drawne in threeds, as out of Flaxe, whereof they make napkins, and other like stuffes; and to make it white, they use to throw it in the fire, being salted: The stone also is found here, called by the Greekes Ophites, and by us Serpentine. The circuit of this Ile is three hundred fourty sixe miles. It is seperated from the firme land of Thessalia, from the which it was once rent by an Earthquake, with a narrow channell, over the which in one place there is a bridge, that passeth betweene the Ile, and the maine continent, and under it runneth a marvellous swift current, or Euripus, which ebbeth and floweth sixe times night and day. Within halfe a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble columne, standing on the toppe of a little Rocke, whence (as the Ilanders told me) [Aristotles death.] Aristotle leaped in, and drowned himselfe, after that he could not conceive the reason, why this Channell so ebbed & flowed: using these words, Quia ego non capio te, tu capias me. This Ile bringeth forth in abundance, all things requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Villages.

The chiefe Cities are Nigropont, and Calchos: The principall rivers Cyro, and Nelos, of whom it is sayd, if a sheepe drinke of the former, his wooll becommeth white, if of the latter coale blacke. From thence and after 22. dayes abode in this Ile, I arrived at a Towne in Macedonia, called Salonica, but of old Thessalonica, where I stayed five dayes, and was much made of by the Inhabitants, being Jewes.

[Salonica.] Salonica is situate by the sea side, betweene the two Rivers Chabris and Ehedora: It is a pleasant, large and magnificke City, full of all sorts of merchandize; and it is nothing inferiour in all things (except nobility) unto Naples in Italy: It was sometimes for a while under the Signiory of Venice, till Amurath the sonne of Mahomet, tooke it from this Reipublicke. And is the principall place of Thessaly which is a Province of Macedon, together with Achaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same.

This City of Salonica is now converted in an university for the Jewes; and they are absolute Signiors thereof under the great Turke, with a large Territory of land, lying without and about them: It hath beene ever in their hands since Soliman tooke in Buda in Hungary, Anno. 1516. August. 20. to whome they lent two millions of money, and for warrandice whereof, they have this Towne and Province made fast to them: They speake vulgarly and Maternally here the Hebrew tongue, man, woman and child, and not else where in all the world. All their Sinagogian or Leviticall Priests are bred here, and from hence dispersed to their severall stations.

[Thessaly.] Thessaly a long the sea side, lieth betweene Peloponnesus, and Achaia: Wherein standeth the hill Olympus, on which Hercules did institute the Olympian games, which institution was of long time the Grecian Epoche, from whence they reckoned their time.

Macedon is now called by the Turkes Calethiros, signifying a mighty & warlike Nation: Macedonia, containing Thessaly, Achaia, and Mirmidon, lieth as a center to them; having Achaia to the East: Thessalia to the South: Mirmidonia, bordering with Ætolia to the West: And a part of Hoemus, whence it was called Hæmonia, and some of Misia superior to the North: It was also called Amathia, from Amathus once King thereof, and then Macedonia from the King Macedo: The chiefe Cities are Andorista, Andesso, Sydra, Sederaspen, where the mines of gold and silver be, which enrich the Turke so monethly, receiving thence somtimes 18000. 24000. & 30000. Ducats. And Pellia, where Alexander the great was borne. Bajazet the first, wonne this Countrey, from the Constantinopolitans. About this City of Salonica is the most fertile and populous Countrey in all Greece.

[The vicissitude of Greece.] Greece of all Kingdomes in Europe, hath bene most famous, and highly renowned for many noble respects: yet most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other: who changing Gold for Brasse, and loathing their owne Princes, suffered many tyrants to rule over them, scourging their folly with their fall, and curing a festered soare with a poysoned playster: whence succeded a dismall discord, which beginning when the State of Greece was at the highest, did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebbe; sticking fast in the hands of a grievous desolation: which former times, if a man would retrospectively measure, he might easily find, and not without admiration, how the mighty power of the divine Majestie doth swey the moments of things, and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange and unlooked for effects: making reason blind, policy astonished, strength feeble, valour dastardly, turning love into hatred, feare into fury, boldnesse into trembling, and in the circuit of one minute, making the Conquerour, a conquered person.

Greece now tearmed by the Turkes Rum-Ili, the Romane Countrey, was first called Helles, next Grecia of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The Greekes, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted Christians, and are wonderfull devout in their professed Religion: The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging over their shoulders: These that be the most sincere religious men; abstaine alwayes from eating of flesh or fish, contenting themselves with water, hearbes, and bread: They differ much in ceremonies, and principles of Religion from the Papists, and the computation of their Kalender is as ours.

[Foure Patriarchs in the Greekish Church.] They have foure Patriarkes, who governe the affaires of their Church, and also any civill dissentions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, & the fourth in Jerusalem. It is not needfull for me to penetrate further in the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In a word, they are wholly degenerate from their Auncestors in valour, vertue, and learning: Universities they have none, and civill behaviour is quite lost: formerly in derision they tearmed all other Nations Barbarians: A name now most fit for themselves, being the greatest dissembling lyers, inconstant, and uncivill people of all other Christians in the World.

[False testimonie of vagabonding Greekes.] By the way, I must give the Kings Kingdomes a caveat here, concerning vagabonding Greekes, and their counterfeit Testimonials: True it is, there is no such matter, as these lying Rascals report unto you, concerning their Fathers, their Wives, and Children taken Captives by the Turke: O damnable invention! How can the Turke prey upon his owne Subjects, under whom, they have as great Liberty, save onely the use of Bels, as we have under our Princes: The tyth of their Male children, being absolutely abrogated by Achmet, this Amuraths Father; and the halfe also of their Female Dowry at Marriages: And farre lesse for Religion, can they be banished, or deprived of their Benefices, as some false and dissembling fellowes, under the Title of Bishops make you beleeve; There being a free Liberty of Conscience, for all kinds of Religion, through all his Dominions, as well for us free borne Frankes as for them, and much more them, the Greekes, Armenians, Syriacks, Amoronits, Coptics, Georgians, or any other Orientall sort of Christians: And therefore looke to it, that you be no more gulled, golding them so fast as you have done, least for your paines, you prove greater Asses, than they do Knaves.

In Salonica I found a Germo, bound for Tenedos, in which I imbarked: As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare, I saw the two topped hill Pernassus, which is of a wondrous height, whose tops even kisse the Clouds.

[Pernassus.] Mons hic cervicibus petit arduus astra duobus,
Nomine Pernassus, superatque cacumine montes.

Through thickest cloudes, Pernassus bends his height,
Whose double tops, do kisse the Starres so bright.

Here it was sayd the nine Muses haunted: but as for the Fountaine Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seene by the imagination of Poets; for if it had bene objected to my sight, like an insatiable drunkard, I should have drunke up the streames of Poesie, to have enlarged my dry poeticall Sun scoarch'd veine.

The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe, and sterile, especially the two toppes, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are alwayes poore, and needy: The other top is barren, and rocky, resembling the ingratitude of wretched, and niggardly Patrons: the vale betweene the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitfull, and delightfull soyle, which painefull Poets, the Muses Plow-men, so industriously manure. A little more East-ward, as we fetcht up the coast of Achaia, the maister of the vessell shewed me a ruinous village, and castle, where he sayd the admired [Thebes.] Citty of Thebes had bene. Whose former glory, who can truely write of; for as the earth, when she is disroabed of her budding and fructifying trees, and of her amiable verdure, which is her onely grace and garment royall, is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted: even so is Thebes and her past tryumphs defac'd, and bereft of her lusty and young Gentlemen, as if the spring-tide had bene taken from the yeare: But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things, they are so secret and mysticall; being the most remote objects, to which our understanding may aspire, that we may easily be deceived, by disguised and pretended reasons; whilst we seeke for the true and essentiall causes: for to report things that are done is easie, because the eye and the tongue may dispatch it, but to discover and unfold the causes of things, requireth braine, soule, and the best progresse of nature. And as there is no evill without excuse, nor no pretence without some colour of reason, nor wiles wanting to malicious and wrangling wits; Even so, was there occasion sought for, what from Athens, and what from Greece, whereby the peace and happinesse of Thebes might be dissolved, and discord raised to the last ruines of her desolation.

[Geographicall errours.] This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers placed in the middle betweene Epire, Thessaly, and Peloponesus: where contrariwise it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace, lying along twixt it and Thessaly by the sea side, which part of the Countrey, some late Authors have falsly named Migdonia, which is a Province, that lieth North from Thracia, East from Macedon, and South from Misia, having no affinity with the Sea: The chiefe Citties in Achaia, are Neapolis, Appollonia, and Nicalide where the famous Philosophers Aristotle was borne: Here is a huge and high Hill Athos, containing in circuit 70. miles, and as some affirme three dayes journey long, whose shaddow was absurdly sayd to have extended to Lemnos, an Iland lying neere the Carpathian Sea.

Achaia was formerly called Aylaide, but now by the Turkes Levienda: Athos in Greeke is called Agios æros, to wit, a holy Mountaine; the top of it is halfe a dayes journey broad, and 14. Italian miles high. There are twenty Monasteries upon it of Greekish Coleires, a laborious kind of silly Friers, and kind to Strangers: The chiefest of which Cloisters, are called Victopodos, and Agios laura, being all of them strongly walled and fensible.

Upon the third day from Salonica, we arrived in the Roade of Tenedos, which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a Castle, and a faire Haven for all sorts of vessells: It produceth good store of wines, and the best supposed to be in all the South east parts of Europe, or yet in Asia. The Iland is not bigge, but exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgil reported, Æneid. 2.

[Tenedos.] Est in conspectu Tenedos, notissima fama insula,

In sight of Troy, a stately Ile I fand
Shut up with Pontus, from the Trojane land;
Whose beauteous bounds, made me wish there to stay,
Or that I might transport the same away;
Else like Tritonean rude Proponticke charmes,
T' imbrace sweet Tenes, alwaies in mine armes.

And againe:

Insula dives opum, Priami dum regna manebant.

An Ile most rich, in Silkes, delicious Wine,
When Priams Kingdome did in glory shine.
Where Ceres now, and Bachus love to dwell
And Flora too, in Berecinthiaes Cell.

In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseills, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busie at venereall tilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seene fall out with Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too deare a repentance. They and I resolving to view Troy, did hire a Jenisarie to be our conductor and protector, and a Greeke to be our Interpreter. Where when we landed, we saw here and there many relicts of old walles, as we travelled through these famous bounds. And as we were advanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greeke brought us to many [The Tombes of Trojanes.] Tombes, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombes of Hector, Ajax, Achilles, Troylus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Tombes also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojane Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchers, but for their particular names, and nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I beleeve my Interpreter, sith it is more then three thousand and odde yeares agoe, that Troy was destroyed.

Here Tombes I viewd, old monuments of Times,
And fiery Trophees, fixd for bloody crimes:
For which Achilles ghost did sigh and say,
Curst be the hands, that sakelesse Trojanes slay;
But more fierce Ajax, more Ulysses Horse,
That wrought griefes ruine; Priams last divorce:
And here inclosd, within these clods of dust,
All Asiaes honour, and cros'd Paris lust.

[Priamus pallace.] He shewed us also the ruines of King Priams Palace, and where Anchises the father of Æneas dwelt. At the North-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte, there is a gate yet standing, and a peece of a reasonable high wall; upon which I found three peeces of rusted money, which afterward I gave two of them to the younger brethren of the Duke of Florence, then studying in Pretolino: The other being the fairest with a large Picture on the one side, I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a learned Scholler, Master Strachon, my Countrey man, then Mathematician to the Duke of Guise, who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it.

[A description of Troy.] Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most delectable plaine, abounding now in Cornes, Fruites, and delicate Wines, and may be called the garden of Natolia: yet not populous, for there are but onely five scattered Villages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath been, as may be discerned, by the fundamentall walls yet extant, about twenty Italian miles, which I reckon to be ten Scottish or fifteene English miles; lying along the sea side betweene the three Papes of Ida, and the furthest end Eastward of the River Simois: whose breadth all the way hath not outstripd the fields above two miles: The Inhabitants of these five scatterd Bourges therein, are for the most part Greekes, the rest are Jewes, and Turkes.

[The Authors portracture.] And loe here is mine Effigie affixed with my Turkish habit, my walking staffe, & my Turban upon my head, even as I travelled in the bounds of Troy, and so through all Turkey: Before my face on the right hand standeth the Easterne and sole gate of that sometimes noble City, with a piece of a high wall, as yet undecayed: And without this Port runneth the River Simois (inclosing the old Grecian Campe) downe to the Marine, where it imbraceth the Sea Propontis: A little below, are bunches of grapes, denoting the vineyards of this fructiferous place; adjoyning neare to the fragments and ruynes of Priams Pallace, surnamed Ilium: And next to it a ravenous Eagle, for so this part of Phrigia is full of them: So beneath my feet ly the two Tombes of Priamus & Hecuba his Queene: And under them the incircling hills of Ida, at the West South west end of this once Regall Towne; & at my left hand, the delicious and pleasant fields of Olives and Figge-trees, wherewith the bowells of this famous soyle are interlarded: And here this piece or portracture decyphered; the continuing discourse, inlarging both meane & manner.

Troy was first built by Dardanus sonne to Corinthus King of Corinth, who having slaine his brother Jasius, fled to this Countrey, and first erected it, intituling it Dardania: Next it was called Troy of Tros, from whom the Countrey was also named Troas: It was also termed Ilion of Ilus, who built the Regall pallace surnamed Ilium: This City was taken and defaced by Hercules, and the Greecians, in the time of Laomedon, himselfe being killed the latter time: Lastly, Troy was reedified by Priamus, who giving leave to his sonne Paris to ravish Helena, Menalaus wife, enforced the Greekes to renew the auncient quarrell: Where after 10. yeares siege the Towne was utterly subverted, Anno Mundi 1783.

[Homer and Virgil upon Troy.] Whence Princely Homer, and that
Mantuan borne,
Sad Tragicke tunes, erect'd for Troy forlorne;
And sad Æneas, fled to the Affricke Coast,
Where Carthage groand, to heare how Troy was lost:
But more kind Dido, when this wandring Prince,
(Had left Numidia, stole away from thence)
Did worser groane; who with his shearing sword,
Her selfe she gor'd, with many weeping word.
O deare Æneas! deare Trojane, art thou gone?
And then she fell, death swallowed up her mone:
They land at Cuma, where Latinus King
Did give Æneas, Lavinia, with a Ring.
Where now in Latium, that old Daidan stocke
Is extant yet, though in the discent broke.

[Rash Judgement.] On the South-west side of Troy, standeth the Hill Ida, having three heads. On which Paris out of a sensuall delight, rejecting Juno, and Pallas, judged the golden ball to Venus, fatall in the end to the whole Countrey. The ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Proverbe:

Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit.

Now Corne doth grow, where once faire Troy stood,
And soyle made fat, with streames of Phrygian blood.

Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, & dined at a Village named Extetash: I remember, in discharging our covenant with the Janisary, who was not contented with the former condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given, the wrathfull Janisary belaboured them both with a cudgell, till the bloud sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if he cannot make his owne part good, he must alwayes at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise he will be constrained, doubtlesse, with stroakes, to pay twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a dogge: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit shew of thankes, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape.

[Sestos and Abydos.] Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of olde Sestos, and Abydos, in a small Frigot, which are two Fortresses opposite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abidos in Asia where Bithinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant, and both of them foure leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hiero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love.

Which curling tops, Leander cut in two,
And through proud billowes, made his passage goe;
To court his Mistresse: O Hiero the faire!
Whom Hellespont to stop, was forc'd to dare:
Sweet was their sight to other, short their stay,
For still Leander, was recald by day.
At last sterne Æole, puft on Neptunes pride,
And gloomy Hellespont, their loves divide:
He swimmes, and sinkes, and in that glutting downe,
The angry Fates, did kind Leander drowne:
Of which when Hiero heard, judge you her part,
She smote her selfe, and rent in two her heart.

But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly; yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, betweene which no Shippes may enter, without knowledge of the Captaines, and are by them strictly and warily searched, least the Christians should carry in Men, Munition, or furniture of Armes, for they stand in feare of surprising the Towne: And at their returne they must stay three dayes, before they are permitted to go through, because of transporting away any Christian slaves, or if they have committed any offence in the Citty, the knowledge thereof may come in that time.

At that same instant of my abode at Abidos, there were fourescore Christian slaves, who having cut their Captaines throat, with the rest of the Turkes, [Christian slaves fled from Constantinople.] runne away from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the watch of both Castles, where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres; yet they escaped with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring landing, & succour, for their victuals were done: victuals they sent them, but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land. In end, the Sea growing somewhat boysterous, the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables, and runne the Galley a shoare: Upon this they were entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley, fearing least the Turkes should thereby forge some quarrell. The yeare following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poore slaves having past the Castles, had bene so wounded and killed with the great shot, and the Galley ready to sinke, they were enforced to runne a shoare, where the next morning being apprehended, they were miserably put to death. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about fourty leagues. Over this straite Xerxes did make a bridge of boates to passe into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered, he caused the sea to be beaten with 300. stripes.

[The sorrow of Xerxes.] And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Hellespont, and seeing all the sea cled with his Army, his Horses, Chariots, and Ships, the teares burst from his eyes: and being demanded the cause of his griefe? answered, O, sayd he, I weepe because within a hundreth yeares, all this great and glorious sight, shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be alive, nor Chariot, nor Engine of Warre, but shall be turn'd to dust; and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was a worthy saying, from such a Heathnish Monarch, who saw no further, than the present misery of this life.

Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barbour, and imbarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato. The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis, the second seate of Thracia, which was first builded by Caius Caligula, and sometimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules: It was the first Towne in Europe, that the Turkes conquered; and was taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes, Anno 1438.

North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria commonly Volgaria, and was called so of certaine people, that came from a countrey, neere to the River Volgo in Russia, about the yeare 666. It lieth betweene Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Auncients, it was thought to be the lower Mysia (but more justly the Region of Dacia.) The chiefe Towne is Sophia, which some hold to be that Towne, which Ptolomeus named Tibisca.

Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Priamus: For which fact Hecuba, the young Princes mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned the worthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper, in maistering and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present, of accurately wrought glasses; he (having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and gratitude of Majestie) broke them all to peeces: Least by mishappe, any of his Servants doing the like, might stirre or move him to an intemperate choller.

[Mount Athos.] The Greekes here, and generally through all Greece, beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, as the Papists beare to Rome: All of which Religious Coliers or Friers, must toyle and labour for their living, some in the Vines, some in the Corne-fields, and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are alwayes occupied for the mainteining of their Families: They are but poorely cled, yet wonderfull kinde to all Viadants; so that who so have occasion to passe that Mountaine, are there lodged, and furnished of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrat or solitary livers, whose simple and harmelesse lives, may be tearmed to be the very Emblemes of Piety and Devotion; knowing nothing but to serve God, and to live soberly in their carriage.

The chiefest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Abdera, where Democritus was borne, who spent his life in laughing, Sestos, Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adrianopolis, which was taken by Bajazet, Anno. 1362.

As we sayled betweene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian brought up in Padua that was in my company, shewed me Colchis, whence Jason, with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aide of Medeas skill, did fetch the golden fleece. [The Sea Hellespont.] This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, who was here drowned; and of the Countrey Pontus, joyning to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis, and Cappadocia. After we had fetcht up the famous City of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand; I beheld on our left hand, the Prospect of that little World, the great City of Constantinople; which indeed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder, of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things, whereof now the World make so great accompt, that the whole earth cannot equall it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entred in the channell of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lyeth, I adressed my selfe to a Greeke lodging, to refresh my selfe till morning.

But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my landing, for bidding farewell to the Turkes, who had kindly used me three dayes, in our passage from the Castles, the Maister of the boate saying, adio Christiano: There were foure French Runnagats standing on the Kaye; [A harsh arrivall.] who hearing these words, fell desperatly upon me, blaspheming the name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beate me most cruelly: And if it had not beene for my friendly Turkes, who leaped out of their boate and relieved me, I had doubtlesse there perished. The other Infidells standing by, said to me, behold what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned Mahometans, cannot abide, nor regard the name of thy God; having left them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left me, I entred a Greeke lodging, where I was kindly received; and much eased of my blowes, because they caused to oynt them with divers Oyles, and refreshed me also with their best entertainement, gratis, because I had suffered so much for Christs sake, and would receive no recompense againe. The day following, I went to salute, and doe my duety to the right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Glover, then Lord Ambassadour for our late Gratious Soveraigne King James, of blessed memory, who most generously & courteously entertained me three moneths in his house, to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my following discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be more particularly avouched: for certainely I never met with a more compleat Gentleman in all my travells; nor one in whom true worth did more illustrat vertue.

THE FOURTH PART

Now sing I of Bizantium: Bosphors tydes,
Twixt Europe, and the lesser Asia glydes:
Their Hyppodrome, adorn'd with triumphes past,
And blackish Sea; the Jadilecke more fast:
The Galata, where Christian merchants stay,
And five Ambassadours for commerce aye:
The Turkish customes, and their manners rude,
And of their discent, from the Scythian blood:
Their harsh Religion, and their sense of Hell:
And Paradice: their lawes I shall you tell:
Then last of Mahomet, their God on earth
His end, his life, his parentage and birth.

Constantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia, so called of Constantine the Emperour, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old Bizantium, but now by the Turkes Stambolda, which signifieth in their language, a large City: It was also called Ethuse, and by the Greekes Stymbolis. This City (according to auncient Authors) was first founded by the Lacedemonians, who were conducted from Lacedemon, by one Pausanias, about the yeare of the World 3294. which after their consultation with Apollo, where they should settle their abode and dwelling place, they came to Bithinia, and builded a City which was called Calcedon. But the commodity of fishing, falling out contrary to their expectation, in respect that the fishes were affraide of the white bankes of the City; the Captaine Pausanias left that place, and builded Bizantium in Thracia, which first was by him intituled Ligos. By Pliny, Justine, and Strabo, it was surnamed Urbs Illustrissima, because it is repleate with all the blessings, earth can give to man; yea and in the most fertile soyle of Europe.

Zonoras reporteth that the Athenians, in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Soveraignty, wonne it from the Lacedemonians: They thus being vanquished, suborned Severus the Romane Emperour, to besiege the same: But the City Bizantium being strongly fortified with walles, the Romanes could not take it in, untill extreame famine constrained them to yeeld, after three yeares siege: and Severus to satisfie his cruelty, put all to the sword, that were within, and razed the walles, giving it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This Citie thus remained in calamitie, [Bizantium reedified by Constantine.] till Constantine (resigning the City of Rome, and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance or the Romane Bishops) reedified the same, and translated his Imperiall seate in the East, and reduced all the Empire of Greece, to a unite tranquilitie, with immortall reputation, which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.

But these disorders at length reformed by the severe administration of Justice, for the which, and other worthy respects, the said Constantine sonne of Saint Helen, and Emperour of Rome (which afterward the Pope usurped) was surnamed the Great. He first in his plantation called this Citie new Rome; but when he beheld the flourishing, and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious situation thereof, he called it Constantinoplis, after his owne name. This Emperour lived there many prosperous yeares, in most happy estate: likewise many of his successors did, untill such time, that Mahomet the second of that name, and Emperour of the Turkes; living in a discontented humour to behold the great and glorious dominions of Christians; especially this famous Citie, that so flourished in his eyes, by momentall circumstances, collected his cruell intentions, to the full height of ambition; whereby he might abolish the very name of Christianity, and also puft up with a presumptuous desire, to inlarge his Empire, went with a marvellous power, both by Sea and Land, unto this magnificent Mansion.

The issue whereof was such, that after divers batteries and assaults, the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walles, and entred the City, which breach was about forty paces long, as by the new colour being built up againe, is easily knowne from the old walles: where when they entered, they made a wonderfull massacre of poore afflicted Christians, without sparing any of the Romane kinde, either male or female. In the mercilesse fury of these Infernall Impes, the Emperour Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off, was carried upon the point of a Launce through all the City, and Campe of the Turkes, to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianity. His Empresse, Daughters, and other Ladies after they were abused in their bodyes, were put to death in a most cruell and terrible manner.

By this overthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet tooke twelve Kingdomes, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is a lamentable losse, of such an illustrious Empire. Thus was that imperiall Citie lost, in the yeare 1453. May 29. when it had remained under the government of Christians, 1198. yeares. It is now the chiefe abode of the great Turke Sultan Achmet, the fifteene Grand Cham, or the line of Ottoman, who was then about twenty three yeares of age; whose sonne [Foure Emperours one after another distressed.] Osman since, and after his death, was murdered by the Janizaries, being 14. yeares of age, after his returne to Constantinople from Podolia in Polland: And in his place, his Unkle Mustaffa made Emperour, whose weaknesse and unworthinesse being eft soones discoverd, he was displaced, and Amurath Osmans brother made Grand Signior, who presently raigneth, and not without great feare of his Janizaries and Timariots, who twice in three yeares have lately made insurrection against him. This Emperour Achmet, who was alive when I was there, was more given to venery, then martialitie, which gave a greater advantage to the Persians in their defensive Warres.

Concerning the Empire, we may observe some fatall contrarieties in one and the same name: For Phillip the Father of Alexander, layd the first foundation of the Macedonian Monarchy, and Phillip the Father of Perseus ruined it. [Contrarieties of fortune.] So was this Towne built by a Constantine, the Sonne of Helena, a Gregory being Patriarch; and was lost by a Constantine, the sonne of a Helena, a Gregory being also Patriarch. The Turkes have a Prophecy, that as it was wonne by a Mahomet, so it shall be lost by a Mahomet.

The forme, or situation of this Citty, is like unto a Triangle, the South part whereof, and the East part, are invironed with Hellespontus, and Bosphorus Thraicus; and the North part adjoyning to the firme land. It is in compasse about the walles, esteemed to be eighteene miles: in one of these triangled points, being the South-east part, and at the joyning of Bosphore and Hellespont, standeth the Pallace of the Great Turke, called Seralia, and the Forrest wherein he hunteth; which is two miles in length.

The speciall object of Antiquity, I saw within this Citty, was the incomparable Church of Saint Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed vessels, were innumerable in the time of Justinian the Emperour, who first builded it; but now converted to a Moskuee, and consecrate to Mahomet, after a diabolicall manner.

[Hyppodrome.] I saw also the famous Hyppodrome, and the Theater whereon the people stood, when the Emperours used to runne their Horses, and make their Princely shewes on solemne dayes, which is now altogether decayd: There is a great Columne in that same place, in the which all these things memorable, that have bene done in this Hyppodrome, are superficially carved.

Upon the West corner of the Citty, there is a strong Fortresse, fortified with seaven great Towers, and well furnished with Munition, called by Turkes, Jadileke: In this Prison, are Bassawes, and Subbassawes imprisoned, and also great men of Christians, if any offence be committed. Their place of Exchange is called Bezastan, wherein all sorts of commodities are to be sold; as Sattins, Silkes, Velvets, Cloth of Silver and Gold, and the most exquisitely wrought Hand-kerchiefes, that can be found in the world; with infinite other commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.

I have seene men and women as usually sold here in Markets, as Horses and other beasts are with us: The most part of which are Hungarians, Transilvanians, Carindians, Istrians, and Dalmatian Captives, and of other places besides, which they can overcome. Whom, if no compassionable Christian will buy, or relieve; then must they either turne Turke, or be addicted to perpetuall slavery. Here I remember of a charitable deede, done for a sinfull end, and thus it was; A Ship of Marseilles, called the great Dolphin, lying here forty dayes at the Galata, [A French palliard.] the Maister Gunner, named Monsieur Nerack, and I falling in familiar acquaintance, upon a time he told me secretly that he would gladly for Conscience and Merits sake, redeeme some poore Christian slave from Turkish Captivity. To the which, I applauded his advice, and told him the next Friday following I would assist him to so worthy an action: Friday comes, and he and I went for Constantinople, where the Market of the slaves being ready, we spent two houres in viewing, and reviewing five hundreth Males and Females. At last I pointed him to have bought an old man or woman, but his minde was contrary set, shewing me that he would buy some virgin, or young widdow, to save their bodies undefloured with Infidels. The price of a virgin was too deare for him, being a hundred Duckets, and widdows were farre under, and at an easier rate: When we did visite and search them that we were mindfull to buy, they were strip'd starke naked before our eyes, where the sweetest face, the youngest age, and whitest skin was in greatest value and request: The Jewes sold them, for they had bought them from the Turkes: At last we fell upon a Dalmatian widdow, whose pittifull lookes, and sprinkling teares, stroke my soule almost to the death for compassion: whereupon I grew earnest for her reliefe, and he yeelding to my advice, she is bought and delivered unto him, the man being 60. yeares of age, and her price 36. Duckets. We leave the market and came over againe to Galata, where he and I tooke a Chamber for her, and leaving them there, the next morning I returned earely, suspecting greatly the dissembling devotion of the Gunner to be nought but luxurious lust, and so it proved: I knocked at the Chamber doore, that he had newly locked, and taken the key with him to the ship, for he had tarried with her all that night; and she answering me with teares, told me all the manner of his usage, wishing her selfe to be againe in her former captivity: whereupon I went a shipboord to him, & in my griefe I swore, that if he abused her any more after that manner, and not returned to her distresse, her Christian liberty; I would first make it knowne to his Maister the Captaine of the ship, and then to the French Ambassadour: for he was mindfull also, his lust being satisfied to have sold her over againe to some other: At which threatning the old Pallyard became so fearefull, that he entred in a reasonable condition with me, and the ship departing thence sixe dayes thereafter, he freely resigned to me her life, her liberty and freedome: which being done, and he gone, under my hand before divers Greekes, I [The Dalmatian Widdow relieved.] subscribed her libertie, and hyr'd her in the same Taverne for a yeare, taking nothing from her, for as little had she to give me, except many blessings and thankefull prayers: This French Gunner was a Papist, and heare you may behold the dregs of his devotion, and what seven nights leachery cost him, you may cast up the reckoning of 36. Duckets.

In Constantinople there have happened many fearefull fires, which often hath consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest Monuments there, and the beauty of infinite Pallaces; as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000. houses, of which I saw a number of ruines (as yet) [Pestilence and Earth quakes.] unrepaired. It is subject also to divers Earth quakes, which have often subverted the Towers, Houses, Churches, and Walles of the City to the ground. Especially in the yeare 1509. in the raigne of Bajazeth, the ninth Emperour of the Turkes, in which time, more then 13000. persons were all smothered and dead, and laid up in heapes unburied. And commonly every third yeare, the pestilence is exceeding great in that City, and after such an odious manner; that those who are infected (before they die) have the halfe of their one side rot, and fall away: so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of their bowels. It is not licentiated here, nor else where in all Turkey, that any Christian should enter in their Moskies, or Churches, without the conduct of a Janisary; the tryall whereof I had when I viewed that glorious and great Church of Sancta Sophia, once the beauty and ornament of all Europe; and is now the chiefe place, to which the Great Turke or Emperour goeth every Friday, their Sabboth day to doe his devotion, being accompanied with 3000. Janisaries, besides Bashawes, Chowses and Hagars. Truely I may say of Constantinople, as I said once of the world, in the Lamentado of my second Pilgrimage;

A painted Whoore, the maske of deadly sin,
Sweet faire without, and stinking foule within.

For indeed outwardly it hath the fairest show, and inwardly in the streets being narrow, and most part covered, the filthiest & deformed buildings in the world; the reason of its beauty, is, because being situate on moderate prospective heights, the universall tectures, a farre off, yeeld a delectable show, the covertures being erected like the backe of a Coach after the Italian fashion with gutterd tyle. But being entred within, there is nothing but a stinking deformity, and a loathsome contrived place; without either internall domesticke furniture, or externall decorements of fabricks palatiatly extended. Notwithstanding that for its situation, the delicious wines, & fruits, the temperate climat, the fertile circumjacent fields, and for the Sea Hellespont, and pleasant Asia on the other side: it may truely be called the Paradice of the earth.

Perah is over against Constantinople, called of old, Cornubizantii; but by the Turkes, Galata, being both a quarter of a mile distant, and the Thraick Bosphore dividing the two. It is the place at which Christian Ships touch, and where [The Christian Ambassadours at Perah.] the Ambassadours of Christendome lie. The number of the Christian Ambassadours that then lay there, and now doe, were these, first the Romane Emperours, then the French, thirdly the English, fourthly the Venetian, and lastly the Holland Ambassadours, with whom often for discourses I was familiar, although with Noble Sir Thomas Glover I was still domestick for 12. weekes, whose Secretary for that time was my Countrey man, Maister James Rollocke, who now, as I take it, is resident in Striveling; he was the last Scotsman I saw till my returne to Malta after my departure from Constantinople.