Chapter XV: Part 15

And even likewise are their prime Pardons, for Noxas preteritas, aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quo ad commissa, quam quo ad committenda crimina absolvenda; That his Holinesse hath all manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares [A false cannonized Saint.] ago Paulo Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo, the late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne to bee a notorious and scelerate liver: done sooner by fifteene yeares then their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Duckats; allotting Prayers, Miracles, Pardons, and Pilgrimages to him, and erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver by all reports, could never, nor cannot attayne to the dignity of a Saint, his meanes was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive.

And how wonderfull absurd is the Popes Bulla di Santa Cruzada, pro defunctis in Purgatory; that for one Pater noster, at a Masse saying, or a Masse sayd for them: Sicavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall relieve any three soules out of Purgatory whom you please. Nay, I have seene the Popes Edict so gracious, that induring one Masse, as many Paters as you can recite, as many soules you free from thence.

And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might soone empty that purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant touch with his finger, during his Prayers, a gaudy beede inraveled betweene five small fast made irons, placed before the Altar; their Bulla, their payment for it; their Paters, their Devotion for their friends soules, are all lost. Then say, if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be oblivious in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell Monster, that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office in Hell, should detayne any poore soule in such torments, as they say are in Purgatory.

Infinite passages of the like kind could I Recite, if I had longer time and larger leisure; and especially of their miraculous leyes, or leying Miracles; in erecting of falshood, and maintayning of perjury; but till a fitter occasion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse, and so proceede. Having left my afore-sayde friend Maister Grahame, at a Taverne at Bilbo neere to Rome, I set forward through the vaile of Ombria and the Countrey Romania, [Ravenna the chiefe City of Romania.] whereof Ravenna is Lady, and the Pope Lord, I arrived (the way of Ferrara and Padua) at Venice. Who then was levying an Army against the Croatian Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of Grasso now Emperour. Of which Army Count Mansfield was Generall, and with whom I crossed the Gulfe to Pola in Istria, and from thence to the siege of Gradisca: The discourse whereof, I have here formerly avouched in the second Part of my first Travailes. Now to speake of a Souldier, certainely hee is more then prayse-worthy and fortunate, that hath faced the Low-Countries, reviewed Briscia in Lombardy, and footed and sighted the Arsenal of Venice, then his eyes have first seene, the sonnes, the force, the policies and Kingdome of Mars: Secondly, the fiery shoppe of Vulcan, where rarest Armes and Weapons are hammer'd out upon the Anvill, for the honour of Mars; and lastly the incomparable Armory or store-house for Sea and Land, the Meggazin and treasury of Mars.

Now leaving both the Armies barking at other like to Hircanian wolves, I traced the fertile soyles of Carindia, Carneola, [Vienne in Austria no way answerable to common fame.] and Stria even to Vienna: all which were subject to the Emperour, save a part of Carneola, that groanes under the Turke. Being arrived at Vienne, I found the Towne, and the flying fame of it far different, either for greatnesse, strength, or wealth: for the Towne rising upon a moderat height circular, is but of small compasse without, not passing two English miles.

The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the Towne; and the strength of it is no way comparable to a hundred Cities that I have seene, neither is it for wealth so much to be admired, being depraved of Seas, shipping, and navigation, having onely the needfull prosperity of dry land Townes.

Here I found a Turkish Ambassadour, going downe the Champion Danubio of Europe, for Constantinople; and with him one Gratianus, a Greeke his Interpreter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged; and with whom I imbarked downe the River to Presburge a place where the Hungarian Crowne is kept, and from thence discending the River to Comorre, the downemost Towne the Emperour retayneth on Danubio, I left my noble Interpreter, and traversed the Champaine Countrey.

The chiefe Townes whereof I wil briefly touch, and so proceed: Buda is the capitall Citie of Hungary, wherein the Turkish Bassaw hath his residence, and was taken in by Solyman the Emperour, the twenty of August 1526. the other is the aforesaid Presburge, aunciently Bosonia; the rest are Belgrad or Albegrek, aunciently Taurinum, in Dutch Griechs: Weissenberge, that was taken by Soliman, 1520. Valpa, and Singidum, upon the Danubio, both under the Turke, and that of the seven Churches upon the River Drana taken in, in the yeare one thousand five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in the yeare one thousand five hundred sixty sixe.

[The special Townes of Hungary.] Moreover upon the Danubio, the Towne Strigonium commonly Grana, and Alberoyall otherwise Stulvesenburg, a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronations of the Kings of Hungary, and was taken by the Turkes, Anno 1543.

Neare the same place is Stridon, where they say St. Jerome was borne: And now above all other the strong Towne of Gamorra, standing in an Ile of the Danuby of that same name, which the Turkes have so oft besieged, yet never could surprise it.

There is also Tockay, and Januarin or Rab seated too upon Danuby, a Towne as it were impregnable, yet it was overtaken by the Turkes, and lastly recovered by the Christians.

[The forces of the Bassa of Buda.] The Beglerbeg of Buda, hath under his command, eight thousand Timariots, and twelve thousand common Souldiers which lye in Garrison, in continuall pay on the confines of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these confines belonging to the house of Austria: The Bassa hath under his authority 13. Sanzacks, lying at these thirteene Townes here undernamed, to wit, Novaguard, Semendria, Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesiæ, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock, Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zegedin, and Sexard.

The other Beglerbegship of Hungary is at Temesara, who retaineth under his command eight Sanzacks and as many jurisdictions, spreading his authoritie over sixe thousand Timariots, and eight thousand foote souldiers; and these Sanzacks lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad, Mudania, &c. The great Turke hath eight Beglerbegs or Bassawes under him in Europe; that of Bosna being one of them, who commandeth ten Sanzacks and eight thousand Timariots; the residence of which Bassa is at Bagivialezza, a commodious place lying in the midst of circulating Provinces; over which he spreads the Ballucco of his power.

[Hungary is a most fertile and fruitfull soyle.] The soyle of Hungary aboundeth infinitly in all things the earth can produce for the well of man; and produceth admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow neare and about the Towne of Sirmia, and so sweet, that they may compare with the Wines of Candy, yea, and aboundeth in all kind of bestiall, that it is thought this Kingdome may furnish all Europe with Beefe and Mutton.

The Hungarians are descended of the Hunnes, a people of Scythia or Tartary. The auncient Inhabitants divided their habitations in nine circles, which the Germanes named Hagyes, and impaled them with high walles, made [The first plantation of Hungary.] of earth and wood, being twenty foote high, and as much in breadth, being rampierd with divers Bulwarks and Towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hearbes, and fructiferous trees.

The space from side to side of each one of these circles, amounted to twenty Dutch miles; the Townes, Villages and houses being within, and so contrived, that each one was within cry of another: this was the first admirable plantation of the Hunnes in this Kingdome.

The Hungarians have ever beene thiftuous, treacherous and false, so that there one brother will hardly trust another, which infidelity among themselves and distracted deceitfull governours, was the chiefest cause of their overthrow and subjection under Infidels: And so have corrupt Counsellors, and insolent Princes beene the ruine of their owne Kingdomes; for if we would have a Prince fit to governe others, and to direct him selfe with the square rules of wisdome and judgement, to know how to become all places, and to use all fortunes; let him bind his tender youth with a disposition temperd with sadnesse: for such a man can neither seduce his minority with ill examples, nor marre his waxen age with a false impression, too common a condition of these dissolute times.

[The infinite riches of Hungary.] Now as for the Hungar soyle, and Kingdome it selfe, and for the goodnes of it, it may be tearmed the girnell of Ceres, the Garden of Bachus, the Pastorage of Pan, and the richest beauty of Silvan: for I found the Wheat here growing higher then my head, the Vines over looking the trees, the Grasse jusling with my knees, and the high-sprung Woods, threatning the clouds: surely if I should enter on particulars here, I have more subject to worke upon, than any Kingdome that ever I saw: The Kingdome is divided in two parts, the higher and the lower, the lowest, largest, and best is under the Turke, and the other narrow proportion under the Emperour.

The Hungarian miles are the longest upon earth, for every one of theirs, is sixe of our Scots miles, nine English: so that the most that ever I could travell there in one day, was but sixe miles: Their language hath no affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the greatest part of the Countrey both under the Turke and Emperour are Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the other being Arians and Papists.

There is a great Gentry in this Kingdome, but untravelled abroad, farre lesse mannerly at home, being luxurious and ill taught, and damnably given to that Masculine misery, the whole Southerne World is defiled with. Having now traversed all the Countrey to Grana, and so to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so covered with Woods, and them full of Murtherers (for I was robbed on these confines, and hardly saved my life) I was constrayned I say, to returne to Tockai in the higher Hungary, and from thence in one day I stepped into Transilvania.

[A description of Transilvania.] This Countrey is so environed with high and unpassable mountaines about, that there is but only five entries to come into it, which make it so strong and impregnable: Within there is a rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles long, and sixe broad, being beautified with six faire Townes; the chiefest whereof, are Cromestate, Juliastrad, and Hermestat. The sides of the mountaynes within rise all upward halfe levell way even to the tops, which maketh a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best mixt soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine, there groweth nothing but Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, and Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower parts of the Hills about, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages; and toward the extreame circulary heights, only Pastorage for Kine, Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickets of woods: So fram'd that every one supplieth another, for they of the Valley furnish the other two parts with Victuall, and they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter, and Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one another as they need. Here I found every where kind and familiar people; yea, and the very Vulgars speaking frequent Latine, and so commonly doe all the Hungarians. The Inhabitants here are all Protestants, but for their Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee was lying sicke of a Feaver at Juliastrad: This Province is a free Principality, and notwithstanding adherent in some respect to the authority of the Turke. But now having left this Religious Country, and crossing the North passage of the Hils, called the Borean Berger, or North mountaine, I entred in Moldovia; where for my welcome in the midst of a border-Wood, I was beset with six murderers, Hungarians and Moldavians: where having with many prayers saved my life, they robbed mee of threescore Hungar Duccats of gold, and all my Turkish clothes, leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned to me my Patents, Papers, and Seales.

This done, and for their better security, they caryed mee a little out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my armes backward so likewise: swearing to me, that if I cryed for helpe, or marred them of their designes before the Sun set, they would turne backe and kill me; promising then to set me free.

[A joyfull deliverance from a desperate thraldome.] But night come, and I forgotten, was left here in a trembling feare, for Wolves and wild Boares till the morrow; where at last by Gods providence I was relieved in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me with an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat; one of them caryed me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of Starhulds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes: And was more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne bounty, and Noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would not suffer mee to goe any further in the Countrey, because of the Turkes jealousie over strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince, with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover, the Ambassadours house.

Well, I yeeld to the Noble mans counsell, and giving him all dutifull thankes for his kind regards, he sent a guide with mee for two dayes journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland, bordering with Tartary.

The halfe of which Countrey I found left disinhabited and desolat by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined to have entered in Tartary, but finding no conduct nor assurance of my safety, I continued my course to Crocavia, situat on the upper Frontiers of Polland bordering with Hungary.

Tartary is thought to be sixe hundred leagues in length, confining Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North with Russia, and to the West with Podolia, and Moldavia.

[The Tartars are mighty oppressours of Podolia in Poland.] The Tartars are not expert in Warre, neither are they so valerous as the Turkes, nor so manly as the Polonians, who counter-blow them at rancounters; neverthelesse by stealth of inroades, they mightily suppresse the extreamest parts of Polland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or Emperour of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince, and the Moscovites call him Catzar Cataiski, to wit, the Cæsar of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the sonne of God, the man of God, and the soule of God: yea, and the greatest Oath that they thinke can be sworne, which they usually doe in matters of fidelitie and importance, is by his Throne Royall.

This custome of idolatrous obeysance, came first by one Rangavistah, who being chosen to be their Emperour, would try their promptnesse and goodwill of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest Princes, and head Governours under him of the people, to kill their Infants, with their owne hands.

And notwithstanding the Commandement seemed very rude and intollerable, yet they fearing the common people, who esteeme their Emperours to be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats every one of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes, and the sight of the people.

Insomuch that ever since, the life and death of the Tartars, depend upon the good-will and word of the King, which no way they dare contradict, such is the ignorant [A love not worthy thinks.] reverence they carry toward him. As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his Death, in inclosing or interring quicke in a Vault neere to his Tombe, one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to goe serve him in Paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the Vulgars Superstition, who Religiously feast upon the Corpes of their aged Parents, and then doe burne their bones into ashes, giving them such a buriall, as we give our Witches; for indeede the Wormes come short among the dead Tartars of their foode.

Being arrived in Crocko or Crocavia, the capitall City of Polland (though but of small importance) I met with diverse Scotish Merchants, who were wonderfull glade of mine arrival there, especially the two brothers Dicksones, men of singular note for honesty and Wealth. It was my lucke heere, to bee acquainted with Count du Torne, the first Noble-man of Boheme, who had newly broake out [The Counte of Torne fled from Prage to Poland.] of Prison in Prage, and fled hither from Bohemia for safety. Mathias then being Emperour, against whom hee had highly offended in boasting him in his Bed-Chamber with hard and intollerable speeches: Saying to Mathias in his face, and before his Wife the Empresse: Loe there is the right hand that helped to put the Imperial Crowne on thy head, and behold now there is my foote shall strike it off againe.

This Fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes to discourse, and beare him Company, for then hee had but onely one follower that came post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very familiar in his cariage: [This Sigismond King of Polland did marry two sisters of Ferdinando now Emperour.] At last his trayne and treasure comming with many other Bohemian Barons and Gentlemen his friends, I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina where the Judges of Polland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at Warsow, the resident place for the King Sigismond who had newly married the other Sister of his former Wife being both Sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour: A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than for a Christian Prince or shepheard.

But it is no matter Pope Paulus Quintus gave him licence, and in that liberty, a wide passage to Purgatory: who, when dead that incestuous guilt will bee royally purged; loe there his pontificall absolution.

Betweene Crocavia, and Warsow Lubilina; lying halfe way it is a hundred Pollonian miles or French leagues: Here I found abundance of gallant rich Merchants my Countrey-men, who were all very kind to me, and so were they by the way in every place where I came, the conclusion being ever sealed with deepe draughts, and God be with you.

Polland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in Horse-men, and populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar and manly Gentry, and a ruvidous vulgarity: They are all for the most part, of square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighes and legs, grim and broad faces, and commonly their shaven heads are finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked shables: for they, and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thicknesse the biggest, and grossest people the world affoordeth.

The soyle is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this Countrey is become the Girnell of Westerne Europe for all sorts of graine, besides Honey, Waxe, Flaxe, Iron, and other commodities: And for auspicuousnesse, I may rather [Polland is the Nurse of Scotlands common younglings.] tearme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the youth and younglings of Scotland, who are yearely sent hither in great numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in cloathing, feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse of her best things; besides thirty thousand Scots families, that live incorporate in her bowells. And certainely Polland may be tearmed in this kind, to be the mother of our Commons, and the first commencement of all our best Merchants wealth, or at the least most part of them.

And now ceasing to peramble through any moe particulars of this familiar Nation to us, I was kindly transported from Warsow upon a Waggon to Dansick, being fifty leagues distant, with a Generous young Merchant William Bailey my cliddisdale Countrey man, to whose courtesies I still rest thankfull.

Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three weekes space, insomuch that my Grave and Tombe was prepared by my Countrey-men there.

Neverthelesse in end (it pleased almighty God) I recovered my health, and then imbarked for Alseynure in Denmarke, where being better convalessed, I recoursed backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem: where after five or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse like to returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made hast for England.

At last finding the commodity of an English shippe belonging to Ratcliffe, wee hoysed sayle, and set forward through the sound, or Belticke Sea for Alseynure agayne: Whence after three dayes abode, bidding farwell to that tributary Towne and Castle, wee Coasted the scurrile and Rockey face of Norway, at two severall parts, but not without great stormes, and contrary Windes, yea and once finally indangered with a threatening shipwracke, which with good lucke we happily escaped.

These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seaventh day the winds refavouring us, wee safely arrived at London, from whence I first began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregination.

Magnum virtutis principium est, ut dixit paulatim exercitatus animus visibilia & transitoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhuc, cui patria dulcis est, fortis autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus vero, cui mundus exilium est.

THE END OF THE SECOND BOOKE, OF MY SECOND TRAVAILES.

THE TENTH PART

Contayning the third Booke, of my third Travailes.

Now swolne ambition, bred from curious toile
Invites my feet, to tread parch'd Æthiops Soile,
To sight great Prester Jehan, and his Empire;
That mighty King, their Prince, their Priest, their Sire;
Their Lawes, Religion, Manners, Life and frame,
And Amais, mount-rais'd, Library of Fame.
Well, I am sped, bids Englands Court adiew,
And by the way the Hiberne bounds I view;
In whose defects, the truth like Razor sharpe
Shall sadly tune, my new-string'd Irish Harpe:
Then scud I France, and crossed the Pyrheneise
At the Columbian heights, which threat the skies;
And coasting Pampelon, I trac'd all Spaine,
From Behobia, to Jubile Taure againe.
Then rest'd at Malaga, where I was shent
And taken for a Spie, crush'd, rackt, and rent.
Where ah! (when Treason tride) by fals position;
They wrest'd on me their lawlesse Inquisition:
Which after Tortures, Hunger, Vermine gnashes,
Condemn'd me quick, stake-bound, to burn in ashes:
Gods Providence comes in, and I'me discovered
By Merchants meanes, by Aston last delivered:
Where noble Maunsell, Generall of that Fleete,
That I was rack't for; did kind Halkins greete
With strict command, to send me home for Court,
To show King James, my torments, pangs, and tort:
Loe I am come, to Bath I'me sent, and more
Mine hoplesse life, made Worlds my sight deplore;
Which here I'le sing, in Tragicke tune to all
That love the Truth, and looke for Babels fall.

But now having finished the two Descriptions, of my first and second adventures; it rests now most necessary, to relate the meritorious designe, and miserable effect of my third Voyage. After I had (I say) by the great Providence of God, escaped infinite dangers, by Seas suffering thrice shipwracke, by Land, in Woods and on Mountaynes often invaded; by ravenous Beasts, crawling and venemous Wormes daily incombred; by home-bred Robbers, and remote Savages; five times stripd to the skin; excessive fastidiousnesse, unspeakable adversities, parching heates, scorching drouth, intollerable distresses of hunger, imprisonments, and cold; yet all these almost incredible sufferings past, could never abate the flame of mine austiere affection conceived; but ambitious curiosity, exposing me to a third Voyage, I may say as Æneas did in his penetentiall mood:

O socii neque enim ignari sumus ante malorum,
O passi graviora, dabit Deus his quoque finem.

O Socials! we're not ignorant of losses;
O suffrings sad, God too, will end these crosses.

But to observe a methodicall order, I thinke it best to show the unacquainted Reader, a reasonable satisfaction for undertaking this third, and almost invincible attempt.

First, the most speciall and urgent cause, proceeded from a necessary good (the necessity of knowledge) in the requisite perfection, of Europes full and spacious sight, the ancient Tierce, and now most Christian world; wanting formerly no part thereof unseene, as well under the Turke as Christian, except Ireland and the halfe of Spaine.

[Certaine approved reasons.] The second cause was mooved, from a more insatiate content, that when I had, and having compassed all Europe, my Resolution, was to borrow a larger dimmense of ground in Affricke then formerly I had done in twice before, even to Æthiopia, Prester Jehans Dominions. For the same effect, and a greater impression to my Resolution, I set Pen to Paper, drawing from the distaffe of the Retractable Muses, a Poeticall Pamphelet; Dedicated to themselves, to their profound Apollo, his then hopefull Heire, and diverse Noble Peeres of both Kingdomes.

And having from a Royall favour obtayned his Majesties Letters and Seales of safe Conduct, and Regall recommendation, to all Kings, Princes and Dukes, &c. I in all obsequious humility, bad farewell, to this sequestrate and most auspicuous Monarchy; and arriving at Dublin in Ireland, August the two and twenty, one thousand sixe hundred and nineteene, I saluted the Right Honorable Sir Oliver St Johns late Lord Grandison, and then Lord Deputy there, from whom for regard and singular courtesies, I was greatly obliged: So was I also to many of the English Nobility and Knight hood there: who through the whole Countrey where ever I came intertayned mee kindly, sending Guides with mee from place to place; yea, and sometimes safe-guards also; beside in their houses great good-cheere and welcome: But in speciall a dutifull remembrance I owe, to the memory of that sometimes [The matchlesse Lord Cichester for vertue, wisdome, & valour.] judicious and Religious Lord Arthur, late Lord Cichester, Baron of Belfast, &c. Who in his time for Vertue, Wisedome, and Valour, wore the Dyademe of Love, and Garland of true Noblenesse: Of whom, and for whose losse, if I should more praise, and longer lament, my Inke would turne to brinish teares, and I to helpelesse sorrow: But leaving him who lived in goodnesse here, and now in glory for ever, I celebrate these Lines, to his eternall Fame.

If ever Bounty shin'd in loyall Brest?
If ever Judgment, flow'd from generous mouth?
If ever Vice-Roy, rul'd this Kingdome best?
If ever Valour, honour'd hopefull youth?
If ever Wisdome, Astreas worth possest?
If ever Vertue, was inclin'd to rueth?
If ever Justice, enormities redrest?
If ever Patron, paterne was of truth?
Then noble Cichester, the Heavens assigne,
These gifts (thy honour'd parts) were truely thine.

And now after a generall surveigh of the whole Kingdome, (the North-west part of Canoch excepted) accomplished: from the 1. of September til the last of February; I found the goodnesse of the Soyle, more then answerable to mine expectation, the defect only remayning (not speaking of our Collonies) in the people, and from them, in the bosome of two gracelesse sisters, Ignorance and Sluggishnesse.

[The foure Provinces of Ireland.] This Kingdome is divided in foure Provinces, although some allude five, that is, Easterne and Westerne Maith, but they are understood to be annexed to Leinster: Their names are these, Leinster, Munster, Ulster, and Canoch: The South-most whereof, is Munster a soile (and so is Leinster in most parts) nothing inferiour, if seasonably manured, to the best grounds in England. The Iland lyeth almost in a Rotundo, being every way spacious; the greatest River whereof is Shannon, whose course, amounteth to eight score miles, inclosing within it many little Iles.

And this I dare avow, there are moe Rivers, Lakes, Brookes, Strands, Quagmires, Bogs, and Marishes, in this Countrey, then in all Christendome besides; for Travalling there in the Winter, all my dayly solace, was sincke down comfort; whiles Boggy-plunging deepes kissing my horse belly; whiles over-mired Saddle, Body, and all; and often or ever set a swimming, in great danger, both I, and my Guides of our Lives: That for cloudy and fountayne-bred perils, I was never before reducted to such a floting Laborinth. Considering that in five moneths space, I quite spoyled sixe horses, and my selfe as tyred as the worst of them.

And now I call to memory (not without derision) though I conceale the particular place and Prelate; it was my Fortune in the County of Dunagale, to bee joviall with a Bishop at his Table, where after diverse Discourses, my ghostly Father grew offended with mee, for tearming of his Wife Mistresse: which, when understood, I both called her Madame, and Lady Bishop: Whereupon he grew more incensed; and leaving him unsatisfied; resolve me Lector? if it be the Custome heere or not? and if, amends shall repay over-sight, a ghostly Wife, shall be still Madam Lady with me; if not, mine observed manner shall be Mistresse.

But now to come to my punctuall Discourse of Ireland; true it is, to make a fit comparison, the Barbarian Moore, the Moorish Spaniard, the Turke, and the Irish-man, are [The ignorant and sluggish life of the common Irish.] the least industrious, and most sluggish livers under the Sunne, for the vulgar Irish I protest, live more miserably in their brutish fashion, then the undaunted, or untamed Arabian, the Divelish-idolatrous Turcoman, or the Moone-worshipping Caramines: showing thereby a greater necessity they have to live, then any pleasure they have, or can have in their living.

There Fabrickes are advanced three or foure yardes high, Pavillion-like incircling, erected in a singular Frame, of smoake-torne straw, greene long prick'd truff, and Raine-dropping watles. Their several Roomes of Palatiat divisions, as Chambers, Halls, Parlors, Kitchins, Barnes, and Stables, are all inclosed in one, and that one (perhaps) in the midst of a Mire; where, when in foule weather, scarcely can they finde a drye part, whereupon to Repose, their cloud-baptized heads. Their shirts be woven, of the wooll or Linnen of their owne nature, and their penurious foode semblable, to their ruvid condition.

And lastly, these onely titular Christians, are so ignorant in their superstitious profession of Popery, that neither they, nor the greatest part of their Priests know, or understand, what the mistery of the Masse is, which they dayly see, and the other celebrat, nor what the name of Jesus is, either in his divine, or humane nature: Aske him of his Religion? he replyeth, what his father, his great grand-father were, that will he be also: And hundreds of better then the common sort, have demanded mee, if Jerusalem, and Christs sepulcher were in Ireland, and if the Holy Land was contiguat with Saint Patrickes purgatory.

[A foolish and superstitious errour.] They also at the sight of each new Moone, (I speake it credibly) bequeath their Cattell to her protection, obnixiously imploring the pale Lady of the night, that shee will leave their Bestiall in as good plight, as shee found them: And if sicke, scabbed, or sore, they solicitat her mayden-fac'd Majesty to restore them to their health, in which absurdity, they far surmount the silly Sabuncks, and Garolinean Moores of Lybia: Indeed of all things (besides their ignorance) I onely lamented their heavie bondage under three kind of Masters; the Land-lord for his Rent, the Minister for his Tythes, and the Romish Priest for his Fees: And remarke when their owne Irish Rent masters have any voyage for Dublin, or peradventure superspended at home in feasting of strangers, then must these poore ones be taxed and afflicted with the supply of the devasted provision of their prodigall houses; otherwise in supporting their superfluous charges for Dublin.

O? what a slavish servitude doe these silly wretches indure, the most part of whom in all their lives, have never third part food, Natures clothing, nor a secure shelter for the Winter cold.

The miserable sight whereof, and their sad sounding groanes, have often drawne a sorrowful remorse from my humane compassion.

As for their Gentry such as are brought up here at London, learne to become a great deale more civill, than these who are brought up at home, after their owne rude and accustomable manner: And this I observed, in my traversing the whole Kingdome, I never saw one, or other, neither could move any of that selfe Nation, to pledge or present his Majesties health; but as many other healths as you list; they will both fasten, and receive from you, till they fall in the muddy hotch potch of their dead Grandfathers understanding: Indeed for entertainment of strangers they are freely disposed, and there Gentlemen of any good sort, reserve ever in their houses, Spanish Sack, and Irish Uscova, and will be as tipsy with their wives, their Priests, and their friends, as though they were naturaly infeft, in the eleven royall Tavernes of Naples.

[Two intollerable abuses in Ireland.] And now amongst many, there are two intollerable abuses of protections in that Kingdome: The one of Theeves and Woodcarnes, the other of Priests and Papists: I discourse of these corruptions now, as I found them then.

The first is prejudiciall to all Christian civillnesse tranquill government, and a great discouragment for our collonizd plantators there, belonging to both soyles of this Iland, being dayly molested, and nightly incombered with these blood-sucking Rebells.

And notwithstanding of their barbarous crueltie, ever executed at all advantages, with slaughter and murder upon the Scots and English dwellers there; yet they have and find at their owne wills Symonaicall protections, for lesser or longer times; ever as the confused disposers, have their law-sold hands, filled with the bloody bribes of slaughtered lives, high-way, and house-robbed people: And then thereafter their ill got meanes being spent, like unto dogs, they returne backe to their former vomit; so jugling with their in, and outgoings, like to the restlesse Ocean, that they cannot, nor never did, become true [The filthy corruption of Irish Priests and Wood-Carnes, theevish Rebells.] subjects to our King, nor faithfull friends to their Countrey: Unlesse by extremity of Justice, the one still hanged before the other, the remanent by the gallowes may examplifie amendment, contrarywise that Land shall never be quiet: for these villanous Woodcarnes are but the Hounds of their hunting Priests, against what faction soever, their malicious malignity is intended: Partly for intertaynement, partly for particular splenes, and lastly, for a general disturbance of the Countrey, for the Priests greater security and stay.

The other abuse is, their Libertinous Masses, the redresse whereof, I first to the Heavens, and then to my Prince bequeath: whose Sabboth recusant mony, whereof they bragge (as they say) in derision of our luke-warme dispensation, tendeth to none other purpose, but to obumbrat the true light of the Gospell, and to feed their absurd, and almost irrevocable ignorance.

And neverthelesse at their dayly meetings (experience taught mee) there was never a more repining people against our Prince and Church as they be: for in this presumption a twofold cause arriseth, want of zeale, and Church discipline in our part, and the officious nine penny Masse on their part: yea, all, and each of them, so exacted and compounded with at higher or lower rates, as the officers in this nature please.

The distribution whereof I nowaies paralell to the sleight concaviating veynes of the earth, nor the sole supply of high-rising Atlas, neither to invelope the Perpendiculars of long-reaching Caucasus: howsoever tect-demolished Churches, unpassable Bridges, indigent Schollers, and distressed Families be supported there-with, I am as cleare of it as they, although I smart by the contrary confusion.

But leaving this and observing my Method, I remember I saw in Irelands North-parts, two remarkable sights: [A bad and uncivill Husbandry in Ireland.] The one was their manner of Tillage, Ploughes drawne by Horse-tayles, wanting garnishing, they are only fastned, with straw, or wooden Ropes to their bare Rumps, marching all side for side, three or foure in a Ranke, and as many men hanging by the ends of that untoward Labour. It is as bad a Husbandry I say, as ever I found among the wildest Savages alive; for the Caramins, who understand not the civill forme of Agriculture; yet they delve, hollow, and turne over the ground, with manuall and Wooden instruments: but they the Irish have thousands of both Kingdomes daily labouring beside them; yet they can not learne, because they wil not learne, to use garnishing, so obstinate they are in their barbarous consuetude, unlesse punishment and penalties were inflicted; and yet most of them are content to pay twenty shillings a yeare, before they wil change their Custome.

[Northerne Irish women giving sucke to their Babes behind their shoulders.] The other as goodly sight I saw, was women travayling the way, or toyling at home, carry their Infants about their neckes, and laying the dugges over their shoulders, would give sucke to the Babes behinde their backes, without taking them in their armes: Such kind of breasts, me thinketh were very fit, to be made money bags for East or West-Indian Merchants, being more then halfe a yard long, and as wel wrought, as any Tanner, in the like charge, could ever mollifie such Leather.

As for any other customes they have, to avoyd prolixitie I spare; onely, before my pen flee over Seas, I would gladly shake hands with some of our Churchmen there, for better are the wounds of a friend, than the sweet smiles of a flatterer, for love and trueth can not dissemble.

Many dissembling impudents intrude themselves in this high calling of God, who are not truely, neither worthily thereunto called; the ground here arrising either from a carnall or carelesse presumption, otherwise from needy greed, and lacke of bodily maintenance.

[An Ecclesiasticke corruption in unlawfull Preachers.] Such is now the corruption of time, that I know here even Mechanick men admitted in the place of Pastors: yea, and rude bred Souldiers whose education was at the Musket mouth, are become there, both Lybian grave, and unlearned Church-men: Nay; besides them professed; indeed professed Schollers: whose warbling mouthes ingorged with spoonefuls of bruised Latine, seldome or never expressed, unlesse the force of quaffing, spew it forth from their empty sculles: Such I say, interclude their doctrine, betweene the thatch and the Church-wall tops; and yet their smallest stipends shall amount to one, two, three, or foure hundred pounds a yeare.

Whereupon you may demand mee, how spend they, or how deserve they this? I answer, their deserts are nought, and the fruite thereof as naughtily spent: for Sermons and Prayers they never have any, neither never preached any, nor can preach.

And although some could, as perhaps they seeming would, they shall have no Auditour (as they say) but bare walles, the plants of their Parishes, being the rootes of mere Irish. As concerning their cariage, in spending such sacrilegious fees, the course is thus.

The Alehouse is their Church, the Irish Priests their Consorts, their Auditors be fill and fetch more, their Text Spanish Sacke, their Prayers carrousing, their singing of Psalmes the whiffing of Tobacco, their last blessing Aqua vitæ, and all their doctrine, sound drunkenesse.

[A flattering covenant twixt Ministers and Masse Priests.] And whensoever these parties meete, their parting is Dane-like from a Dutch Pot, and the Minister stil purse bearer defrayeth all charges for the Priest: Arguments of Religion, like Podolian Polonians they succumbe; their conference onely pleading mutuall forbearance; the Minister affrayed of the Priests Wood-Carnes, and the Priests as fearefull of the Ministers apprehending, or denoting them; contracting thereby a Gibeonized covenant, yea, and for more submissions sake, hee will give way to the Priest to mumble Masse in his Church, where hee in all his life made never Prayer nor Sermon.

Loe there are some of the abuses of our late weake, and stragling Ecclesiasticks there, and the soule-sunke sorrow of godlesse Epicures and Hypocrites.

To all which, and much more have I beene an occular Testator, and sometimes a constrayned consociat to their companeonry; yet not so much inforced, as desirous to know the behaviour and conversation of such mercenary Jebusites.

Great God amend it, for it is great pitty to behold it, and if it continue so still, as when I saw them last; O farre better it were! that these ill bestowed Tythes, and Church-wall Rents, were distributed to the poore, and needy, than to suffocate the swine-fed bellies of such idle and prophane Parasits.

And here another generall abuse, I observed that whensoever any Irish dye, the friend of the defunct (besides other fees) paying twenty shillings to the English Curat, shall get the corpes of the disceased to be buryed within the Church, yea often, even under the Pulpit foote: And for lucre interred in Gods Sanctuary when dead, who when alive would never approach, nor enter the gates of Sion; to worshipe the Lord, nor conforme themselves to true Religion.

Truely such and the like abuses, and evill examples of lewd lives, have beene the greatest hinderance of that Lands conversion; for such like wolves have beene from time to time, but stumbling blocks before them; regarding more their owne sensuall and licentious ends, than the glory of God, in converting of one soule unto his Church.

[Ministeriall offices strangely abused.] Now as concerning the conscionable carriage of the Hybernian Clergy, aske mee, and there my reply: As many of them (for the most part) as are Protestant Ministers, have their Wives, children, and servants invested Papists; and many of these Church-men at the houre of their death (like dogges) returne backe to their former vomit: Witnesse the late Viccar of Calin (belonging to the late and last, Richard, Earle of Desmond,) who being on death bed, and having two hundred pounds a yeare; finding him selfe to forsake both life and stipend, send straight for a Romish Priest, and received the Papall Sacrament: Confessing freely in my audience, that hee had beene a Romane Catholick all his life, dissembling onely with his Religion, for the better maintaining of his wife and children. And being brought to his buriall place, hee was interred in the Church, with the which hee had played the Ruffian all his life; being openly carryed at mid-day with Jesuits, Priests, and Friers of his owne Nation, and after a contemptible manner in derision of our profession, and Lawes of the Kingdome.

Infinite moe examples of this kind could I recite, and the like resemblances of some being alive; but I respectively suspend (wishing a reformation of such deformation) and so concludeth this Clergicall corruption there. Yet I would not have the Reader to thinke that I condemne all our Clergie there, no God forbid, for I know there are many sound and Religious Preachers of both Kingdomes among them, who make conscience of their calling, and live as Lanthorns to uncapable ignorants, and to those stragling Stoicks I complayne of, condemnatory Judges; for it is a grievous thing to see incapable men, to jugle with the high mysteries of mans salvation.

[My departure from Ireland to France.] And now after the fastidious ending of a tempestuous raine-sacking toyle, I imbarked at Yoghall in Munster, February 27. 1620. in a little French Pinke bound for St. Mallo in Bretagne. Where, when transported, I set face to Paris, where I found the workes of two scelerat and perverst Authors: the one of which had disdainefully wrot against the life and raigne of Queene Elizabeth of sempiternall renowne: the other ignominiously, upon the death of our late Queene Anne of ever blessed memory. The circumstances whereof, I will not avouch, since Malaga detaineth the notes of their abjured names, and perfidiat paines.

A just reward (may I say) refounded, upon these fond conceites, you have of the fantasticke French: Especially these superstitious straglers heere; who, when they have sucked the milke of their selfe ends, and your lavish Liberalities without desert; returne a kicke with their heeles (like to the Colt of an Asse) in your teeth agayne. And there your meritorious thankes, and their shamefull slaunders, in acquittance of your vayne Expence.

[The fantastick foolery of the French.] Tell me, if you be tyed like Apes to imitate their ever-changing humours? and can you draw from them (in any Art or cariage) a greater draught, then they draw from the Italian, for first they be Imitators; next, Mutators; thirdly, Temptators; and lastly, your Plantators, in all the varieties of vanity. Have you a desire to learne modestly to Daunce, skilfully to Fence, dexteriously to manage Great Horses, view Forraine sights, learne Languages, Humane policies, and the like conducements:

Then rather reach, the Fountaine, whence they flow,
Whence Science, Arts, and Practise lively grow;
Than sucke the streames, of separate distasts,
He well derives, his labour never wasts;
Fond Fooles affect, what foolery Fooles effect,
The sequell sight, than sense, doth more infect.

Besides these two infamous Authors, what hath Edee, the Idea of a Knave, (and Gentle man of the French Privy Chamber) done; who like a Wood weather cocke, and giddy headed Foole, (full of deficient Vapours) hath shamefully stayned with his shamelesse Pen, the light of this Kingdome, which now I omit to avouch till a fitter time.

Thus, they fondly Write, thus they pratle, thus they sing, thus they Daunce, thus they brangle, thus they dally in capritziat humours, and thus they vary, in the fleering conceite of sa, sa, sa, sa, sa, far beyond the inconstancy of all female inconstancies.

But to conclude this Epitome of France, three things [Certaine caveats for strangers, that goe to France.] I wish the way-faring man to prevent there: First, the eating of Victuals, and drinking of Wine without price making; least (when he hath done) for the stridor of his teeth his charges be redoubled. Next to choose his lodging (if it fall out in any way-standing Taverne) far from palludiat Ditches, least the vehemency of chirking frogs, vexe the wish'd-for Repose of his fatigated body, and cast him in a vigilant perplexity.

And lastly, unlesse earely hee would arise, I never wish him to lye neere the fore-streetes of a Towne; because of the disturbant clamours of the Peasant samboies or nayle-woodden shoes: whose noyse like an æquivox, resembleth the clashing armour of Armies; or the clangour of the Ulyssen-tumbling Horse to fatall Troy.

But now to my purpose, leaving Paris behind me, I arrived at Pau in Bearne. This Province is a principality of it selfe, anciently annexed to the Kingdom of Navarre: lying betweene the higher Gascony of Guyan, and the Pyrhenei Mountaynes of Baske, bordering with the North parts of Navarre: Both of which, belongeth to the French King, except a little of Baske toward the Columbian Alpes, and that the Spaniard commandeth.

Pau is the Justice seate of Bearne, having a goodly Castle, situate on an artificiall Rocke; and in this place was that Martial Henry du Burbone la Quatriesme borne, than King of Navarre.

Here be the finest Gardens in Christendome, the Gardens of Pretolino (5. miles from Florence) only excepted. Yet for faire Arbors, spacious over-siling walkes, and incorporate Trees of interchanging growths, it surpasseth Pretolino: but the other for the variety of fructiferous Trees, rare and admirable ponds, artificial fountaynes; Diana, and her Allabaster Nymphly-portrayed trayne, the counter-banding force of Agvadotti, and the exquisite banqueting Roome, contrived among sounding unseene waters, in forme of Gargantus body, it much excelleth Pau.

[Biscai in Spayne is a scurrile Countrey.] Hence, I discended the River of Orthes to Baion, and crossing the River Behobia, which divideth France and Spaine, I entered in Biscai June 19. 1620. This is a Mountaynous and invincible Countrey, (of which Victoria is the chiefe City) being a barren and almost unprofitable Soyle. The speciall commodities whereof, are Sheep, Woole as soft as silke, Goates, and excellent good Iron: Cornes they have none, or little at all, neither wine, but what is brought from Navarre in Pelagoes or Swineskins, carried on Mulets backes.

Leaving Biscai, I entred Navarre, and came to Pampelona its Metropolitane Citty: Here I found the poorest Viceroy (nomen sine re) with the least meanes to maintaine him, that ever the World affoorded such a stile. Navarre is but a little Kingdome, amounting in length (with the South Pendicles of the high Pirhenese) to twenty three leagues: That is, betweene Porto di St. Joanne in Baske, and Grono upon the River Hebro, dividing the old Castilia and Navarre. In breadth it extendeth to seaventeene Leagues, that is betweene Varen in Biscai, and Terrafranca in Arragon: The soyle is indifferent fertile of Cornes and Wines. From thence I set East-ward to Syragusa, the Capitall Seate of Arragon.

Arragon, hath Navarre to the West, South Valentia Kingdome, East, and South-east Catalogna; and on the North the Alpes Pyrhenese. It is an auncient and famous Kingdome, under whose Jurisdiction, were both the petty Kingdomes of Valentia, & Barselona: And not long ago traduced to the Castilian King by marriage. For although Castilia hath the language, they have the lineall dissent of the Romans; the Inhabitants whereof being instinctively endued with all humane affabilities. From thence returning through the old Castilia, or Kingdome of Burgos, in the way to St. Iago of Compostella in Galitia: It was my fortune, at St. Domingo to enter the Towne-Church: accompanied with two French Puppies, mindfull to shew me a miraculous matter.

Where, when come, I espied over my head opposit to the great Altar, two milke white Hennes, enraveled in [A leying miracle.] an iron Cage, on the inner side of the Porches Promontore. And demanding why they were kept? Or what they signified? Certaine Spaniards replyed come along with us, and you shall see the Storie, and being brought to the (Choro) it was drawne thereon as followeth. The father and the sonne, two Burboneons of France; going in Pilgrimage to St. James, it was their lot to lodge here in an Inne: Where supper ended, and reckoning payed, the Host perceiving their denariat charge, he entered their Chamber, when they were a sleepe, and in bed, conveying his owne purse in the young mans Budget.

To morrow earely; the two innocent Pilgrimes, footing the hard bruising way, were quickly over-hied by the Justice; where the Host making search for his purse, found it in the sonnes bagge. Whereupon instantly, and in the same place hee was hanged, and left hanging there, seazing on their money be a sententiall forfeiture.

The sorrowfull Father (notwithstanding) continued his Pilgrimage to Compostella. Where, when come, and devotion made, our Lady of Mount Serata appeared to him saying: Thy prayers are heard, and thy groanes have pierced my heart, arise, and returne to Saint Domingo for thy sonne liveth. And hee accordingly returned, found it so, and the sonne-hanged Monster, after 30. dayes absence, spoke thus from the Gallowes, Father, goe to our Host, and shew him I live, then speedily returne. By which direction the old man entred the Towne, and finding the Host at Table, in breaking up of two roasted Pullets, [A damnable delusion of a divellish miracle.] told him, and sayd: My sonne liveth, come and see. To which the smiling Host replyed, he is as surely alive on the Gallowes, as these two Pullets be alive in the dish. At which protestation, the two fire-scorched fowles leapt out suddainly alive, with heads, wings, feathers, and feet, and kekling, tooke flight thrice about the Table. The which amazing sight, made the astonished Host to confesse his guiltines; and the other relieved from the rope, he was hung up in his place, allotting his house for an Hospitality to Pilgrimes for ever.

There are still two Hennes reserved here, in memory of this miracle, and aye changed, as they grow fat for the Priests chops, being freely given to the place. And I dare swearing say, these Priests eate fatter Hennes, than Don Phillipo him selfe, they being fed by the peoples devotion, at their enterance to the morning and evening sacrifices, and are tearmed holy Hennes. Infinite paper could I blot, with relating the like absurdities, and miraculous lies of the Romane Church, but leaving them till a fitter occasion, I proceed. From thence traversing a great part of the higher Asturia, I entred in Galitia, and found the Countrey so barren, the people so poore, and victuals so scarce, that this importunate inforcement, withdrew me from S. Jacques, to Portugale: Where I found little better, or lesser reliefe, their soyles being absolute sterile, desartuous, and mountainous.