Chapter II: Part 2

But for feare of Excommunication from that Anti-christian Curtezan. I dare not persevere longer herein: Although I can; yea, and so truely bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any Romane Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Britaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would heavily bemone the terrible fal of that Babylonian whoore, which in a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usually doth in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father, Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest, or villany a Papist committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Simonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.)

[Pardons for pennies.] And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, adjoyned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands, lesse, or more yeeres. The period of Time, after eight and twenty dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne Country-men, the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Jesuit borne in St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon, and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to speake trueth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old [My escape from Rome.] Earle of Tirone, who hid me secretly for three dayes in the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streets and ports of Rome were layd for me, who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night, and leapt the walles of Rome with me, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxstter, now dwelling in Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same, my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enimie then his nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it, and at home none more false nor deceitfull then a bosome friend.

Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.

And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I revolve in this verse;

Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque

Most noble Naples, breeds but Dukes and Earles,
And gallant Knights, with Ladies load with Pearles.

Among many other things neare to this City, (which in the conclusion of this Historicall discourse be more particularly expressed) were Lacus Avernus, Sibillaes Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and Cuma, where banished Æneas from Troy and Carthage arrived. I saw the Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne Grotto, that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia, being passable for Coatches, and a halfe mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon;

In Mantua from Mothers wombe,
I first conceived breath;
Parthenope reserves the Tombe,
My Sepulcher of Death.

Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first taught the people agriculture: The more impropriated names were Hesperia, because it is situate under the evening starre Hesperus: Latium, because Saturne driven from Creet by his sonne Jupiter, hic latebat abditus; and Ænotria in regard of the abundance of wines it produceth. This Countrey was first sayd to be inhabited by Janus, Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the [The first plantation of Italy.] tribes of the Samnites, Sabines, Laurentani, and Tarentines: The second Plantation was by Evander, and certaine other Arcadians, who being banished from their native dwellings, seated themselves here: Thirdly, by the Trojanes, under conduct of Æneas, who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here, and were kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daughter Lavinia, Æneas married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent; and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that Dardan stocke, as glorying in such a famous pedegree. The length of Italy is nine hundreth Italian miles, though some allot a thousand, it is false, for I have trod foure severall times from end to end of it on the soles of my feete, even from Vallese, the first Towne in Piemont, discending mount Synais from La Croix Southward, which secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Bianco in Calabria, hemb'd in with the gulfe Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other, it being the furthest promontore of Italy.

So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base ignorance, make England longer then Scotland in their Mappes, when Scotland, by the best judgements, and mine owne better experience, is a hundred and twenty miles longer then England: It is a deocular errour, which I could wish to be reformed, as in the conclusion of this worke I shall more credibly make cleare.

The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof, bending along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa, or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower, and narrower, till it shut out it selfe in two hornes, Calabria, and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth not above foureteene English miles from sea to sea, the gulfe Tarento (which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes) deviding the two homes. On the North side of Terra di Ottranto, lieth Apulia, bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitfull soile for cornes; & West-ward thence boundeth, terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum Napolitanum. These foure territories make up the intire [The Kingdome of Naples.] Kingdome of Naples: The chiefe Cities of which, are Naples, Capua and Salerno, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Cousenza, the chiefe seate of the President, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio, Allauria, and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, are Otranto the which towne being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a feare, that for a whole yeare, and till the expulsion of the Turks, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brundusium beautified with a famous haven.

And in Apulia, are Manfredo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio, whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of Hanniball, against the Romans. The Church-land beginnes beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposit to Gayetta, the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome, neare to Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma, or the Churches patrimony, imbracing both seas, till it runne to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffine, & Aquacupadente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and Popes lands. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium; and thence it reacheth along Northwest, by the Venetian gulfe, to the uttermost bounds of the Dutchy of Ferara, being thirty miles from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty miles, whose breadth is narrow, and where it joyneth with both seas, it is but sixty miles. The Church-land is [The foure Papall Territories.] divided in foure territories, Campagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viterbo, Narni, Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavecchia, being the chiefe Cities: Next, the Countrey of Ombria, or Ombrosa, lying betweene Rome and Loretta, the chiefe Cities are Spaleto, from whence it is reckoned a Dutchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotall University, Fulino, and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the Angell appeard to his mother, telling her, that she should conceave and beare a sonne, should be the Champion of Jesus, and hard by they shew me the Crub or Stall where he was borne, with many other foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable: every way representing his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona being principall, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino, Riginati, Aguby, and Parasiticall Loretta. The fourth is Romania, lying along toward Ferrara, betweene the sea, and the hills Appenine.

This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania, is disjoyned from Marca di Ancona, by the Duke of Urbins lands, which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and Sinigalia all sea port Townes, the other of this Dutchy are Urbino, and Casteldurante. The chiefe Towne in Romania, is Ravenna, which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Popes Legate remaineth, the other be Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara, and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories.

Tuscana or Ætruria lying South from the middle of this Church-land is 100. miles in length, and as much [The Duke of Florence his Patrimony.] in breadth, I meane of that belonging to the great Duke: Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queene Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Siena: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little comonwealth of Luca: The chiefe Citty is Florence, whose streetes are divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa, Siena, Pistoia, Empoli, Ligorne, and Arretzo.

From Tuscany to the West, and North-west, lieth Lumbardy, intituled the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian territory, of which I will speake in the owne place) in foure principalities, Milaine, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Cities be Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia. This Province is mainely watered through the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when he came tumbling downe from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Delia Guarda, and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it.

[Piemont and Genuaes Jurisdictions.] West from Lumbardy lieth Piemont, betweene it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles and Cowie. South from Piemont and Lumbardy, lieth the Riviera of Genoa, along the Mediterrean sea: the territory of which is narrow, but above one hundreth miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and mountainous, yet producing good store of Orenges, Lemmons, Figges and Ches-nuts, whereon the Mountaineri onely live, being either rosted, or baked in bread: The chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria, are Genoa, [Italy lyeth as the right arme, reaching forth from the maine body of Europe.] and Savona. Italy lying in forme of a legge, is on both sides environed with the Sea, save onely the North-west part, and roote thereof, which is devided from France and Germany, by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Grisonean, Zingalian, and Tirolian alpes, which bend North-east, and South-west, inclosing it from the body of Europe, from sea to sea. Italy of all other Regions under the Sunne, hath beene most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune, yet not a little glorying in these famous Captaines, Fabius Maximus the buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and Cæsar; for venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The soyle is generally abundant in all things necessary for humane life, and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but wondrous deceitfull in their actions, so unappeasable in anger, that they cowardly murther their enemies rather then seeke an honourable revenge, and so inclind to unnaturall vices, that for bestiality they surpasse the Infidells: the women of the better sort are slavishly infringed from honest and lawfull liberty: They of the middle ranke somewhat modest in carriage, witty in speech, and bountifull in affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and greedy, and lastly the worser dregs, their impudent Curtezans, the most lascivious harlots in the world. This much in generall for the briefe description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.

In the meane while, having alwayes a regard of my hasty dispatching from Christendome, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the sea side, Campagna di Roma, aunciently Latium, and Ombria, now the Dutchy of Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in the Marca of Ancona, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let me lay downe before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplifie my former discourse, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our language.

Before I came neare to Loretta by tenne miles, I overtooke a Caroch, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travell alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they intreated me to come up in the Caroch, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusall, presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames came forth also, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars mount againe; saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for devotion sake) in pilgrimage, and for the pennance enjoyned to them by their Father Confessour. Truely so farre as I could judge, their pennance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of their devotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.

When the morning Starre appeared, we imbraced the way marching towards Loretta, and these vermillion Nymphs, to let me understand they travelled with a chearefull stomacke, would oft runne races, skipping like wanton Lambes on grassie Mountaines, and quenching their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approaching neare the gate of the Village, they pulled off their shooes and stockings, walking bare-footed through the streets, to this tenne thousand times polluted Chappell, mumbling Paternosters, and Ave Mariaes on their beads. When they entred the Church, wherein the Chappell [Ignorant devotion.] standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of bare-footed blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands: Thinking themselves not worthy to goe on foote to this idely supposed Nazaretan House, like to this saying;

Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat,
Quam movet interius religionis amor.

To Lorett people haunt with naked feete,
Whome Religion moves with loves fervent sprit.

Unto this falsely patronized Chappell, they offer yearely many rich gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chaines, & Rings of Gold and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, Goblets, imbroudries and such like. [Romes avarice.] The Jesuiticall and Poenitentiall Fathers receive all, but who so enjoy all, let Camera reverenda Romana, graunt certification to this Loretan avariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the yeare therewith. My foure Pilgrimes having performed their ceremoniall customes, came backe laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I as unwilling to shew them any further reason, demaunded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) Jurando per il Cieloe Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the House wherein the Virgin Marie dwelt in Galile: and to the confirmation of these words shewed me a Booke, out of which I extracted these Annotations.

This Chappell they hold it to be the house, in which Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein she conceived [Damnable illusions of Loretta.] Jesus, by operation of the holy Ghost, & in the meane time, that devotion waxed scant amongst the Christians of the Primitive Church in the Holy Land: strangers tirannizing over the territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes King of Persia, Sarazens, and Harancone King of Ægypt; it came to passe in the yeare of our Lord, 1291. and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation, was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from Nazareth in Gallilee, to Torsalto in Slavonia: the distance being by sea and land 17. hundred Italian miles, O! a long lift for so scurvie a Cell. And in the morning, Shepheards comming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in hast, and told Saint George Alessandro, the Prior of Torsalto, who in that meane while was lying sick. He being stricken in admiration with these newes, caused himselfe to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and falling in a marvellous trance, [A Simonaicall vision.] the Virgin Mary by a heavenly Vision appeared to him, saying after this manner.

[A Papisticall Dreamd of Oration.] Behold, thou hast often pierced the heavens, with invocations for thy reliefe, and now I am come, not onely to restore thee to thy health, but also to certifie thee, that thou doubt nothing of this House; for it is holy in respect of mee, the chast immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to be the Mother of the most High. It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceived me, nourished me, and brought me up, in singing Psalmes, Hymnes, and Praises to the glory of God; and also I kept in this roome the blessed Infant Jesus very God, and very Man, without any grievance or paine brought him up with all dilgent observation: And when cruell Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertisement of the Angell, I, and my husband Joseph, who never knew my body, fled with him downe to Ægypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heaven, to make a reconciliation of humane nature, with the Court Coelestiall: I stayed in this house with John, and the other Disciples: Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had beene done into it, consecrated and converted the same to a Temple, for a commemoration of Christs sufferings, the chiefe of Martyrs. Also that resplending Image thou seest, was made by Saint Luke (my familiar) for eternizing the memory of my portraiture, as I was alive, by the commandement of him, who doth all things, and shall reserve this sacred Image to the worlds end: That Crosse of Ceder, which standeth at the side of the little Westerne window, was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelfe whereon my linnen clothes, and prayer Bookes lay, Let no person come neere it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my Sonne, I tell thee, awake, and goe recite the same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirme thy beleefe therein, the Queene of Heaven giveth thee freely thy health.

[The shamefull opinions of the Papists concerning Loretta.] Frier Alexander being ravished (say they) with the Vision, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Countrey. And incontinently he sent this Prior and other foure Friers to Nazareth, whereby he might know the trueth thereof, but in that journey they dyed. The Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house over the gulfe of Venice, to a great wood neere by the sea side, in the territory of Riginati in Italy, being 300. miles distant. Which, when the country-men had found, and remarking the splendor of the illuminating Image, dispersed these newes abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seene what great miracles was daily done, by the vertue of this Chappell, imposed then to it this name, Our Lady of Miracles. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in the wood many theeves and cut-throates, who robd and murthered the Pilgrims. Which innocent spilt bloud, pricking their pitifull Lady to the heart, she made the Angels transport it the third time, and set it on the top of a little Mountaine, belonging to two brethren in heritage, being forty foure miles distant from the former place. But they upon a day quarrelling, and discording about the utility of the [Foure times transported.] Offerings to this House, the Angels did remoove it the fourth time, and placed it in a high broad way, where it standeth unremooved to this day, which place is now called the Village of Loretta; and from the last Station nine miles distant. [A confirmation by the Popes.] This was confirmed by the Papall authority to be of an undoubted trueth, after a hundreth and fifty three yeares deliberation. Loe, as briefly as I could, have I layd open to thy judicious eyes, the transportations, Originall, and Papisticall Opinions of Loretta; protesting I have added nothing to the Authours description, but onely collected these speciall Warrants; omitting other infinite foolish toyes, conceived for their blind-folded credulity.

This Chappell, or rather dwelling house, as they would have it, stood alwayes alone, till of late, that Pope Clement 8. caused build a glorious Church over it: And here by accident I encountred with a very courteous and discreet Gentleman, James Arthur, whose company was to me most acceptable: Our acquaintance being first made at the beginning of the same voiage upon the mountaines of Ferrara in Paese du Burbon, and bound to visite Venice, in his returning home for Scotland, as well as he had done Rome and other Cities of Italy.

Now I remember here of a pretty jest, for he and I going in to see the inravled image with sparrets of iron, and musing on the blacknesse of her face, and the richnesse of her gowne, all set with precious Stones and Diamonds; and because she is sightlesse, foure lampes of oyle they keepe alwayes burning before her face, that the people may see her, because she cannot see them. There was, I say, a young lusty woman hard by my elbow, busie at [A fleshly false-sprung miracle.] her Beades, who with the heate of the throng, and for lacke of ayre, fell straight in a sound: the women about her gave a shoute, and cryd that our blessed Lady had appeared to her; whereupon she was carried forth and layd upon the steppes, that discend from the Chappell to the Church-floore, five hundreth more come to visite her with salutations of Saint, Saint, O ever blessed Saint; Now it was Friday in the fore-noone, and the woman having travelled all night, and to save charges of fish, had eaten a cold bit of her owne meat privately in the Taverne, with halfe a Buckale of red Wine: The people more admiring this imaginary heavenly trance, than the reliefe of the woman; at last sayd I, brother Arthur, I will goe open yonder womans breast, and I did so: and holding up her head before all the people, there sprung a flood of vin garbo downe the Alabaster stayres, intermingled with lumpes of ill-chewd flesh: Whereat the people being amazed, from a Saint swore she was a Divell: And if my friend and I, had not made hast to carry the sicke woman from the Church to a Taverne, doubtlesse, they had stoned her to death; and here was one of their miracles.

Another time, comming backe from my second Travels in Affricke, it was my lucke to stumble in here againe, where I saw an old Capuschin Frier conjuring the Divell out of a possessed woman, who had stayed there, and two men keeping her above eighteene moneths, being twise a day brought before the Chappell. The Frier stood up before her, the two men holding both her armes; [A Capuschin Frier conjuring the Divell.] and sayd, laying his formost finger on her brow; In nomine Patris, &c. Io vi cargo a dirmi, per quale cagione, havete posseduto l'anima di questæ poveretta; & vati ne via io ti adjuro, alia quei luogi, dionde tu sei venuto: I charge thee to shew me for what cause thou hast possessed the soule of this poore wretch, and I adjure thee to goe backe unto these places from whence thou camest. Meane while the woman stood dumbe and silent for the space of a quarter of an howre, not being usuall before: the people gave a shoute, and cry'd, the Divell had left her, whereat he that held her right arme did let it fall downe by her side: But by your leave, in the twinckling of an eye, the Divell in the woman gave the Frier such a rattle in the face, that he was stroke downe upon his backe among the people: And if it had not bene that she was borne downe with strength of hands, she had torne the silly old conjurer in peeces: crying, O false and dissembling knave, pretendest thou to have power to cast out evill Spirits, when thou thy selfe is in a worser case than I, and all thy profession too; Hell, hell, is your reward.

This is another of our Lady of Lorettaes Miracles, though many moe I could recite: As for any more vertue of this Cymberian image, I have knowne sicke folkes loaden with all kinde of diseases, criples, lame, maimed, deafe, dumbe, and numbers possessed with evill spirits lie here before this Lady, till I returned againe from Asia & Affrick, that same way: imploring, fasting and penitentially weeping for health; But alas poore soules, they lost their labour. When they had both spent all their meanes, and perhaps the poorest of them three yeares attendance, and forced to my knowledge to returne againe to their severall stations with sorrowfull and comfortlesse hearts.

O strange and wonderfull frailty of men! what damnable imperfections domineere over their brain-sicke knowledge: Sathan, thou Prince of darkenesse, hast so over-sylled the dimmed eies of their wretched soules, that notwithstanding of Gods eternall word, ordained to call them through the spotlesse bloud of Christ Jesus; to be the heires and adopted sonnes of Salvation: yet thou all abhominable enemie of mankind, overthrowest both their spirituall and naturall understanding in a bottomelesse Ocean of darke ignorance; promising to thy obdurate souldiers, to build Castles in the Ayre; and contrarywise is busie, digging downe dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternized guests, with horrible torments, and never-ceasing flames of everlasting fire. What wilfull-hearted man can be so apt to believe, that our blessed Lady, had such estimation of morter and stones, as to have (although she had, had power) caused Angells to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, beleeve it who so will; questionlesse, the Judgements of God in the trueth of his all-seeing Justice, shall reward their too credulous mindes accordingly; Then shall they know their foolish and superstitious errours.

But now to leave them with their Idolatry to stones, mettall, and Images, I come to their blasphemies against the sacred Deity: Looke to the workes of Bernardini de Busti, Bonaventure, and Fereolus Lucrius, how shamefully they derogate the glory from God, and attribute all grace, mercy and omnipotency, to the Virgin Mary. So Ludolphus and Chrysostome affirme, that Velocior est non unquam salus invocato nomine Mariæ, quam invocato nomine Domini, vinci filii ejus: Men may oftentimes be sooner saved by calling on the Virgin Mary, than on Christ. Omnia quæ Dei sunt, Mariæ sunt, quia mater & sponsa Dei illa est, all things which are Gods, are the Virgin Maries, because she is both the Spouse, and the mother of God, saith a Rabbin of theirs: and as many creatures honour the Virgin Mary, as honour the Trinity, saith another: So, Imperio Virginis, omnia famulantur & Deus, all creatures & God himselfe, are subject to the Virgin Maries command. And in their Bonaventure Ladies Psalter, Monstrate esse matrem, & coge illum peccatoribus misereri, Shew thy selfe a Mother, and compell him (viz. Christ) to have mercy upon sinners. Infinit citations could I produce, of such like intollerable [The Virgin Mary divided in a thousand Ladies.] attributs, besides the dividing of her in a 1000 stiles, viz. The Lady of the wines, Lady of the oyles, Lady of the cornes, Lady of the woods, Lady of the mountains, Lady of the meeds, Lady of the sheepe and goats, Lady of the springs, Lady of the fire, Lady of the shepheards; from earthquakes, thunder and fire-flashes, Lady of the Angels which is at Asisi in Ombria, Lady of miracles in divers places, Florence, &c. Lady of life in Bullogna newly found, Lady of all noble Ladies, and Nunnes, Lady of the galley-slaves, Lady of shipwracking seas, Lady of rivers and waters, Lady of young children, and orphanes, Lady of all consolation, Lady of pure Virgins, Lady of distressed widdows, Lady of the sicke, and women with child, &c. Besides the powerfull Lady of Mountserrata in Catalogna, the aforesayd miraculous Lady of Loretta, and the clementious Ile-ruling Lady of Trapundy in Sicilia, &c. Thus they make it manifest, that Shee, that is Ladye of the one, is not Ladye of the other; each of them having divers gifts, divers graces, divers powers, as they alledge, divers Chappells, divers offerings, and divers pilgrimages, according to the severall seasons, eminent or past-perills, peculiar invocations, and the particular neede of each family, man woman and living creature.

Whereby it plainely appeareth, by their dividuall acknowledgements, she is neither superior in power, universall in power, nor equall in power to God: For if she were, one Chappell, one name, one place, one pilgrimage, one offering would suffice for all. They chatter over on their beads ten Ave Maries to our Lady, and but one Pater noster to Christ: They make their orations thrice a day in the streets to the Virgin, and none to God: they say God divided the Kingdome with the Virgin, reserving to himselfe Justice, graunted to his mother mercy, wherefore if any man be aggrieved with Gods Justice, he may appeale to the court of her mercy.

But to conclude their blasphemies, & horrible lies, blessed is the blessed Virgin Mary (the Mother of Christ according to the flesh) above all women for ever and ever.

Leaving both this and Loretta, and returning to my [Ancona.] purpose, James Arthur and I imbarked at Ancona, (15. miles from thence) in a Frigato; This City of Ancona, in the time of Trajanus the Emperour, flourished mightily in fame, and reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day;

Contemnunt omnes Ancona moenia Turcas.

This sea-strong Towne, set on a Promontore,
Defieth the Turkes with its defensive shoare:

It glories not a little in giving name to the whole province lying betweene Ombria and Romania, and is situate on a hill that shooteth into the sea like a promontore, having a faire haven built by Trajanus. It hath but one gate, whence arose the proverbe, Un porto nel Ancona, un Petro nel Roma, e un Torre nel Cremona, One gate in Ancona, one Peter in Rome, and one Steeple in Cremona being exceeding high.

Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkeable thing, save the two Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the dayes of Octavius Cæsar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions sustained, and shoaring along with them, the Duke of Urbines three sea-port Townes Sinigalia, Fanno and Pesaro, we sayled by the mouth of Rubicon, called now Pissatello (which Julius Cæsar passed over, against the ordinance of the Senate, and afterwards seazed upon Rome, putting Pompey to flight) I saw the place, where the bloudy battell was fought betweene the French and Spaniards, Anno Domini 1512. but the victory fell to the Gaules, with the losse of nineteene thousand men on every side, and they have erected singular Monuments there, in a perpetuall memory thereof. After three dayes sayling (having passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the great Venetian shippes) we arrived at St. Marks place in Venice.

Mine associate and I, were no sooner landed, and perceiving a great throng of people, and in the midst of them a great smoake; but we begun to demaund a Venetian what the matter was? who replied, there was [A Gray Frier burned for villanous Lechering.] a gray Frier burning quicke at S. Markes pillar, of the reformed order of S. Francis, for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes with child, and all within one yeare; he being also their Father confessor. Whereat, I sprung forward through the throng, and my friend followed me, and came just to the pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flatlings in the fire; The Frier was forty sixe yeares old, and had bene Confessor of that Nunnery of Sancta Lucia five yeares: Most of these young Nunnes were Senators daughters; and two of them were onely come in to learne vertue, and yet fell in the midst of vice.

These fifteene with child, were all re-cald home to their fathers Pallaces; the Lady Prioresse, and the rest of her voluptuous crew, were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice. The Monastery was razed to the ground, their rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families, and distressed age, and their Church to be converted to an Hospitall. Most part of all which M. Arthur and I saw, before ever we either eate, drunke, or tooke our lodging in Venice: And I cannot forget, how after all this, we being inhungred, and also over-joyed tumbled in by chance, Alla capello Ruosso, the greatest ordinary in all Venice, neare to which the Friars bones were yet a burning: And calling for a Chamber, we were nobly & richly served: After dinner they layd up our budgets and our burdons, and abroad went we to see the Citie: Night come, we supd, and supd alone: [The chiefe Venetian Ordinery.] The next morne, I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne, and saw it was time that we were gone: I demanded our dependant, what was to pay? he answered, Un scudo all huomo par ciascun ripasto, A Crowne the dyet for each of us, being ten Julets or five shillings starling: Mr. Arthur lookd upon me, and I laughd upon him: In a word our dinner and supper cost us 40. Juletts twenty shillings English; being foure Crownes, whereat my companion being discontented, bad the divell be in the Friars ballocks, for we had payd soundly for his Leachery: many like deaths, for like causes, and worser, have I seene in all my three voyages, if time could permit me to particularize them; But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till thou findest more.

Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis.

This Towne most rich, to dare the Maine is shut,
In Neptunes bosome, and sea-streeted cut.

Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales, and the perfect, mirrour of civill and politicke Governement. This sequestrat Citty, is situate in the bosome of Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his maine body, which invironeth the Iland.

[The territories of Venice.] The Common-wealth of Venice, containeth Marcha del Trevisa, which lieth in Lombardy, containing these Cities, Trevisa, Padua, Vincenza, Verona, Briscia, the second City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy, Bergamo, Chiozza, and Rovigno. Friuli, formerly called Forum Julii, lieth in the straite betweene the East end of the Alpes, and the sea Adriaticke, in length fifty, & in bredth forty miles. It hath bene often subject to the vicissitude of fortune: The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of the gulfe, and Palma lately built by the Venetians 1583. being the most impregnable, and best fortified towne in Italy: Friuli was a Dukedome, founded by the Lombards at the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth: Afterward Luitprandus one of the Dukes, envying the increase of the dominion of Venice, made war against them, which ended in the losse of his owne countrey. The rest be Istria, a part of Dalmatia, the Ilands Candy, Corfu, Zante, Cephalonia, Serigo, Tino, Val di Campare, Lesina, and others of lesser note.

The Venetians howsoever of old, they have bene great warriours; they are now more desirous to keepe, then inlarge their Dominions, and that by presents and money, rather than by the sword or true valour; so that whatsoever they loose by battell, it is observed, they recover againe by treatise. The Venetians are sayd to have discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser, who assisting

the Trojans, and Troy being lost, their King Pterilimene slaine, they fled away with Antenor; and arriving in this part of Italy seated themselves, till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy, made them, (avoyding the storme before it fell) to draw into these Ilands and [The first plantation of Venice.] Marishes, where now it standeth. It was first founded, and begun, Anno. 421. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles, and defended against the fury of the sea, by a banke extending to fifty miles in length: Through which in eight places, there is passage broken for small boates, but no way for vessels of any burthen, save at Malamucco, and the castle of Lio: Yea, and so dangerous, that there is neither out-going nor in-comming, without a Pylot, which maketh the Citty unconquerable.

This Citty is seven miles in compasse, and from so base an abject beginning, it is growne (as it were) to be the chiefe bulwarke of Europe: The Duke of this Adriatick Queene, espouseth the sea, every Ascension day, by casting a golden ring into it. Which Stultitious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was graunted, when he fled to Venice for succour, being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa: And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne, restored the Pope, and for a reward, was honoured with this espousall.

The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy, lying along the foote and South side of the Alpes, amounteth to sixe score five miles: The breadth whereof in the planure is narrow, but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes, and very populous.

The applauding Italian sayth, that Europe is the head of the World, Italy the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of Italy; and indeed, it is the strongest, and most active part of that powerfull body: Whereby it would appeare, that in the last subversion of the latter [The Venetians are sprung of the Romans.] Monarchy, the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venice; whose peace hath procured the plenty, and whose warres the peace of all Christendome. The lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marrie, least the number increasing should deminish the dignity: Yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures, and for their sakes allow publicke stewes. The Jewes here, and in Rome, weare red, and yellow hats for notice sake, to distinguish them from others: which necessary custome (would to God) were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England, so should we easily discerne them from the true Christians. And finally, to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall, Artillery, Munition and Armor, the division of streetes with channels, the innumerable bridges of stone and timber, their accustomable kind of living, apparell, curtesies, and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries, Gallies, Galleasses and Gallouns, were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces, are so well knowne, and their generall customes by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in the World.

Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and reviewing this City and circumjacent Isles, and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia, as his was to recrosse the snowy Alpes, my muse remembreth our sad departure.

[Mr. Arthur his farewell from Venice.] Now freindly Arthur left
me, courts the Maine
Of pleasant Lombardy: By Trent againe
Beares through the Alpes, in his Tirolian wayes,
And past Bavaria, where Danubio strayes
He fell on Rhyne, and downe these curlings came:
Then shipd for Albion, neare to Ratterdame:
And coasting Isis, viewd that royall court,
Where once Appollo did in glory sport;
Fraught with Ambrosian nectar; crownd his daies
On Pindus tops, to have Mecenas praise
This light ohumbrat, Arthur courts the North
[The Earle of Glencairne.] And servd a noble Earle of auncient
worth
Full eighteene yeares: till death that darts our woe
First smote his Lord and then his Countesse so:
Now they are fled, and he is left alone
Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one
Which if to his desert, such fortune came,
A Princely service, might his merit clayme.
Where wishing both his fate, and worth to be
I'le Venice leave, and visit Lombardie.

In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lombardy, and visited the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrara. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses:

Extollit Paduam, juris studium, & medicinæ.
Verona, humanæ dat singula commoda vitæ.
Exhaurit loculos ferrarea ferrea plenos.

In Padua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue, and found there a Countrey Gentleman of mine, Doctor John Wedderburne a learned Mathametician, but now dwelling in Moravia, who taught me well in the language, and in all other respects exceeding friendly to me. Padua is the most melancholy City of Europe, the cause onely arising of the narrow passage of the open streets, and of the long galleries and dark-ranges of pillars, that goe alwhere on every hand of you, through the whole streets of the Towne: The Schollers here in the night commit many murthers against their privat adversaries, and too often executed upon the stranger and innocent, and all with gun-shot or else stilettoes: for beastly Sodomy, it is as rife here as in Rome, Naples, Florence, Bullogna, Venice, Ferrara, Genoa, Parma not being exempted, nor yet the smallest Village of Italy: A monstrous filthinesse, and yet to them a pleasant pastime, making songs, and singing Sonets of the beauty and pleasure of their Bardassi, or buggerd boyes.

I commend the devotion of Venice and Genua, beyond all the other Cities of Italy; for the Venetians have banished the Jesuites out of their Territories and Ilands: [A comparison of Jewes and Jesuits.] And the Genueses have abandoned the society of Jewes, and exposed them from their jurisdiction. The Jewes and the Jesuites are brethren in blasphemies; for the Jewes are naturally subtill, hatefull, avaritious, and above all the greatest calumniators of Christs name: and the ambitious Jesuites, are flatterers, bloudy-gospellers, treasonable tale-tellers, and the onely railers upon the sincere life of good Christians. Wherefore I end with this verdict, the Jew and the Jesuite, is a Pultrone and a Parasite.

THE SECOND PART

Now step I o're the gulfe, to th' Istrian shoare,
Dalmatia, Slavonia, Ilyria, more,
Valona, Albana, Epyre in Greice,
And Morea fat, where Jason hurt his fleece:
The Adriatick, and Ionean Iles,
And Lesinaes great monster; Athens styles;
With Lacedemon sackt, and Sparta rent
From auncient worth: Arcadia poore and shent:
Our gulfe Lepanto, the Ætolian hight,
And all these coasts, till Candy come in sight.

After my returne from Padua to Venice & 24. days attendance devasted there for passage, I imbarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco e Lenante. The Master had no compasse to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation; because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe, to hoise up sayles at night, and againe breake of day they have full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hills of the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary, we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.

Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny; Cato affirmeth it was called Istria of one Isiro, but by the moderne writers, l'ultima Regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is sayd to be of length 100. miles, and forty large, but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large.

Istria hath on the South Friuli and the sea: on the West Stria: on the North Carniola: on the East the gulfe [The antiquity of the Istrians.] Carnaro or Quevero. It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Natolia, who by King Ætas being sent to pursue Jason and the Argonauts (who had stolne the golden fleece and his daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or feare of the Kings anger durst not returne, and so remained in this Country, where they enjoyed a long freedom, til by many incursions of piracy, still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. & afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the yeare 1200.

That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holds of the Emperour, and the Archduke of Austria. The Country it selfe aboundeth in cornes, wines and all kinds of fruites necessary for humane life. Neare to this haven wherein we lay, expecting roome windes, I saw the ruines [Justinopoli decayed.] of old Justinopoli, so called of Justinian the Emperour, who builded it upon an Iland of a miles length, and three acres broad: And to passe betwixt the City and the firme land, there was seven bridges made. It was aunciently strong, but now altogether decayed: The principall Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rovigo.

The windes favouring us, we weighed Ankors, and sayled by the Iles Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces. About midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foote of which, the auncient City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small shippes may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect of a contageous Lake neare to it, which infecteth the ayre with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the Castell di Oriando, the Arke Triumphant, and the reliques of a great Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, Julia pietas; and it standeth in the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course, we passed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro.

This gulfe or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by East 50. miles within land, at the narrow entry whereof, it hath a part of Istria on the West, and the Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians use to keepe alwayes certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay, on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks: In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna, Gradisca, and Novagard, the chiefe Cities of Croatia: the people which inhabit these Townes, and the adjoyning Countrey are called Scoks, a kind of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, courageous and desperate: Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skenes, carrying targets at their girdles, and long Gunnes in their hands: They are marveilous swift on foote, and dayly annoy by land their neighbouring Turkes with inrodes, fetching away great spoyles and booties, of [The Scoks live under the house of Austria.] cornes, cattell and horses: And by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the Venetian commerce, in their owne domesticke waters: The great losses which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to time received, and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes in their trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound by former articles of peace, to keepe harmelesse within their owne gulfe from all Christian invasions, was the onely and urgent cause that moved the Venetians to wage warre with Ferdinando then Duke of Grasse, and now Emperour, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and losse of men: For the towne being strongly fortified with walles and munition, and 2000. Scoks within to defend it, would often at the neare approaching of the enemy make a salley forth on horse and foote, giving many miserable overthrowes to the Assailants: To the which detriments, for twenty dayes space I was a testator, being after my returne from Affricke in my second travels, as I was going for Hungary, Moldavia, Valecchia and Transilvania, taking this countrey in my way: And one morning at the breake of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of towne, make bloudy havocke of 3000. of the Venetian army: [Croatia.] This part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, abounding in cornes, wines, bestiall and pastorage, though then by lawlesse, and turbulent souldiers, it was miserable defaced.

The whole number of these Scoks that are able to carry armes, be not above sixe thousand men: They are wonderfull kinde to strangers, which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better sort their Captaines and Commanders, and onely for the affinity of Scoki and Scoti, although I dare sweare, there is little or none at all betwixt the two Nations.

Having passed Carnaro, we sayled close by the Ile Sangego, called formerly Illrides: This Isle is of circuit foure score, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out contrary to our expectation, we sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Gallies. This Osero was first named Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Captaine Absertus, who came from Colchis, accompanied with many people, to bring backe Medea to her carefull father. Whose purpose being frustrated, stayed still, and inhabited this land. A fit oportunity obtained upon the [Zara nova.] eighth day, we arrived in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia; for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seeke passage for Ragusa.

By the way, I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Maister, for offering my condition, I found him more then courteous, and would have no more but the halfe of that, which was his bargaine at Venice. Besides this, he also entertained me three dayes, with a most bountifull, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but I giving him absolute, and constant answers, appeased his imagined sorrow.

[Ignorance and Sloth.] True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make every thing terrible unto us, and we will not, because we dare not, and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit our selves to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: And like some sottish weakelings, that give the reines of their governement into the hands of their Wives or Servants, thinking then they buy their peace when they sell it; thus doe they grow upon us, I meane ignorance and sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place, being just so strong, as we are weake. And as contrary newes delivered at one time, maketh one to heare with joy, and remember with sorrow; even so an unresolved man, in high and heroyicke designes, though seeming forward is distracted here, set on feare there, and rent asunder every where with the flashing frights of desperation: But a constant resolution can couragiously support all things; Ubicunque homo est, ibi beneficio locus est. And congratulating this Skippers courtesie, I bad farewell to his councell.

Zara is the capitall city of Dalmatia, called of old, Jadara. The inhabitants are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlaine, in the behalfe of Venice. The walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth: which are above forty cubites higher then the Walles and Bulwarkes; standing in the foure severall corners of the city.

There lye continually in it; a great Garrison of Souldiers to defend the towne and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice: for he is Signior thereof. They have indured many invasions of the Turkes, especially in the yeare one thousand five hundreth and seventy, when for the space of fourteene moneths, they were dayly molested and besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: If the Turkes could win this place, they might easily commaund the Adriaticall Seas, in regard of that faire Haven which is there, to receive Ships and Gallies; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull because of their safeguard.