Chapter XII: Part 12

Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar is marked from the roote to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote, a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following there shal be great Dearth, Pestilence, and famine. And if it amounteth to twelve Cubites, then the sequell yeare shal be indifferent. And if it swell to fifteene Brasses, then the next yeare shal be copious and abundant in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top, eighteen Brasses, then all the Country of Ægypt, is in danger to be drowned and destroyed.

[Many Schollers mistaken about Nylus.] Now from the body of Nylus, there are above three thousand Channels drawne through the playne, on which passing Ditches, are all the Bourges and Townes builded; and through which Channels the River spreads it selfe through all the Kingdome: Which when scoured, of filth and Wormes, and the water become cleare, then every House openeth their Cisterne window, and receiveth as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation: Neyther doth ever the River flow any where above the Bankes, for if it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.

All which Channels here or there, do make intercourse for their streames agayne, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fooles hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land, then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall, their Cornes and fruites? for the nature of violent streames, do ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon, leaving slime, mood, and Sand behind their breaches, and therefore such inunding can not be called cherishings.

There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen Wormes, and other Monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Æquinoctiall Line, from montes Lunæ, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Æthyopia interior, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Ægypt, and in a place of the exterior Æthiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The fall and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neere to it.

[The reason of the flowing of Nylus.] The infallible reason, why Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance, is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer, and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these Cynthian mountaynes, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving in streames, to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the matter delabiates: For benefit of which River, the great Turke is inforced, to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sultans of gold to Prester Jehan, least he impede and withdraw the course of Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Ægypt to desolation: The ground and policy whereof, begunne upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon the Æthiopians by Amurath, which hee was constrayned to give over, under this pact, and for Nylus sake.

The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Actos, to wit, Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights: It was called too, Ægyptus, of a King so named, that communicated the same to it, and to the Countrey.

Festus, sayth it was called Melos, and Plutarch tearmed it Mela: Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is, running, or coulant in gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor or Sihor, to wit, Trouble, because of the great noyse it bringeth with it to Ægypt; and the same Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Ægyptians wont to name it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Ægypt, name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long course.

[The Ile of Delta.] This River maketh the Ile of Delta in Ægypt; so likewise in Æthiopia, that Ile of Meroa so renowned. The ancient Authors, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo, Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others nine; and Pliny eleaven. And some moderne Authors affirme it hath onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleadge, dividing it selfe two leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two whereof, are these of Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes, and as many branches drawne from its mayne body.

The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweete, above all others in the World, and that proceedeth of the extreame vigour of the Sunne, beating continually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer, and Simple; as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.

And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great, when all others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so increase, when even here, and at home, the river of Rhone, hath the like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Towne of Geneve, and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike; from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.

Ægypt was first inhabited by Misraim, the Sonne of Chus from whom the Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misroiæ. It was also named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Osiriana from Osiris; and now Ægyptus from Ægyptus the surname of Rameses, once a King of great puissance. [The confines of Egypt.] It bordereth with Æthiopia, and the Confines of Nubia: on the South. On the North with the sea Mediterrene: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta, and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great Lake Bouchiarah, and a daungerous Wildernesse confining therewith, supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea, through which the people of Israel passed.

This Country was governed by Kings first, and longest of all other Nations: From Osiris (not reckoning his Regall Ancestors) in whose time Abraham went downe to Ægypt, he and his Successours, were all called Pharaoes; of whom Amasis, is onely worthy mention, who instituted such politicke Lawes to the auncient Egyptians, that he deserveth to be Catalogized, as founder or this Kingdome.

This Race continued till Cambises the second Persian Monarch, made Ægypt a member of his Empire: and so remayned till Darius Nothus the sixt Persian King: from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of themselves. But in the eighteene yeare of Nectanebos the seventh King thereafter, Ægypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Emperour of Persia.

In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King hereof, after his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the sonne of Lagi, from whom the Kings of Ægypt were for a long time called Ptolomeis: of whom Queene Cleopatra was the last, after whose selfe murther, it was annexed for many yeares to the Romane Empire, and next to the Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted, and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar the third Caliph of Babylon.

Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of Jerusalem; Noradin a Turkish King of Damascus sent Saracon a valiant Warriour to aide them, who made him [The alterations of Egypt.] selfe absolute King of the whole Countrey; whose ofspring succeeded (of whom Saladine was one, the glorious conquerour of the East) till Melechsala, who was slaine by his owne souldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of the Suldans, as the Jannizaries are to the great Turke, who lately, Anno 1622. have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire, as the Mamaluks did in the Ægyptian.

They made of themselves Sultans, whereby the Mamaluke race continued from the yeare 1250. till the yeare 1517. wherein Tonembius, together with his predecessour Campson Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the first; by whom Ægypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire, and so continueth as yet.

The length of this Kingdome, is foure hundred and fifty English miles, and two hundred broad: the principal seat whereof is the great Caire, being distant from Jerusalem sixteene dayes journey, or Caravans journalls, amounting to 240. of our miles. Some hold that the space of earth, that lyeth betweene the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta was called the lower Ægypt; now called Delta under the figure of a Greeke letter triangular.

The head of this great Delta, where Nylus divideth it selfe was called Heptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta it selfe was called by the Romanes Augustamia: Ægypt besides the aforesayd names, it had divers Epithites of divers Authors; for Appollodorus tearmed it the Religion of Melampodes, because of the fertility of it: And Plutarch gave it the name Chimia, because of the holy ceremonies of the Ægyptians in worshipping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignely remarked, deriving it from Cham, the sonne of Noah, so that some hold the opinion, that the Ægyptians had their originall from Misraim (for so was Ægypt called) the sonne of Chus, that proceeded from Cham Noahs sonne: The circuit of Delta or the lower Ægypt is thought to be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.

[The revenews of Egypt.] In the time of the Ptolomeis the revenewes of this Kingdome were 12000. talents; so also in the time of the Mamaluks; but now through tyranical government, and discontinuance of trafficke through the red sea, the Turke receiveth no more than three millions yearely; one of the which is free to him selfe, the other two are distributed to support the charge of his Vicegerent Bassaw, and presidiary souldiers, being 12000. Jannizaries, besides their thousands of Timariots, which keepe Ægypt from the incursions and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayro I stayed twelve dayes, and having bid farewell to Monsieur Beauclair the Consul who courteously intertained me, the other foure French Pilgrimes and I imbarked at Boulacque in a boate: And as we went downe the River, the chiefe Townes of note we saw were these, Salmona, Pharsone, Fova, & Abdan. I remember our boate was double hooked with forked pikes of iron round about the sides, for feare of the Crocodiles, who usually leape up on boates, and will carry the passenger away headlong in the streame: And yet these beasts themselves are devoured by a water-Rat, of whom they taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it down, where the Rat for disdaine commeth forth at the broad side of his belly leaving the Crocodile dead. In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline, which hath the vertue to deliver a woman from her paine in child-birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the rare beauty of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes, Ellock; whose feathers being beautified with the diversity of rarest colours, yeeld a farre off to the beholder a delectable shew: having also this propriety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they loose the beauty of their feathers by reason of the feare they conceive when they see a man. Upon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria, being 50. miles distant.

[The Towne of Alexandria.] Alexandria is the second Port in all Turky: It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which defend both it selfe and also Porto vecchio: The fields about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious ayre, especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying here, I was advised by a Ragusan Consul, to keepe my stomacke hot, to abstaine from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe, so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a small diet, and was often too small against my will, by the meanes whereof (praised be God) I fell never sicke till my returne to France.

This Citty is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices that were brought through the red Sea, to Ægypt, and so over Land to Alexandria & its Sea-port: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all Christendome; but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke, by the Portugals, English, and Flemings, which maketh both Venice, and Alexandria fare the worse, for want of their former Trafficke, and commerce in these Southerne parts: whence Venice grew the mother nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoyled thereof, and decayed by our Westerne Adventures, in a longer course for these Indian soyles.

This Citty was a place of great Merchandize, and in the Nycen Councell was ordayned to be one of [The foure Patriarchall Seas.] the foure Patriarchall seas; the other three are Antiochia, Jerusalem, and Constantinople. Heere in Alexandria was that famous Library which Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000. volumes: It was he that also caused the 72. Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against Alexandria, is the little Ile Pharos, in the which for the commodity of Saylers the aforesaid King builded a watch-towre of white Marble; being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the seven wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramides, the Tombe Mausolaea, which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused build in honour of her Husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Wals of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Statue of Jupiter Olympicus at Elis in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent worke-master in Gold and Ivory, being in height 60. Cubites.

Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for passage, great was the heate the French men and I indured, in so much that in the day time, we did nought but in a low roome, besprinckle the water upon our selves, and all the night lye on the top or platforme of the house, to have the ayre; where at last bidding good-night to our Greekish Host, we imbarked in a Slavonian shippe, belonging to Ragusa; and so set our faces North for Christendome; in which ship I was kindly used, and Christian-like intertayned both for victuals and passage. The Windes somewhat at the beginning favouring us, wee weighed Anckers, and set forward to Sea: leaving the Coast of Cyrene Westward from us, which lyeth betweene Ægypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdome of Tunnis.

[The fabulous Countrey of Syrene.] The chiefe Cities therein are Cyrene, Arsinoa, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenean Country taketh the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politana. The Soyle is barren of Waters and Fruites, the people rude and theftuous: yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits of Calimachus the Poet; Aristippus the Phylosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Symon of Cyrene, whom the Jewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse.

In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Ægypt, stood the Oracle of Jupiter Hammon, in the great Wildernesse confining with Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed, he saw for foure dayes space, neither man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arrived, the flattering Priests, professed him to be the sonne of Jupiter: which afterward (being hurt with an Arrow) hee found false, saying; Omnes me vocant filium Jovis, sed hæc sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West from Cyrene all the Kingdomes of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algier, Fesse, and a part of Morocco even to Gibilterre, or fretum Herculeum, under a generall name now called Barbary; and hardly can be distinguished by the barbarous Moores.

In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome, there dyed seaventeene of our Mariners, and all our foure French Pilgrimes, two of them being gray hayred, and 60. yeares of age, which bred no small griefe, and feare to us all, thinking that they had dyed of the plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came.

The French men had onely left unspent among them all, threescore and nine Chickens of gold, which the Master of the Ship medled with, and because they were Papists, and they and I alwayes adverse to other, I could not clayme it. [Foure French Pilgrimes dead.] Their dead Corpes were cast over Board, in a boundlesse Grave to feed the fishes, and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life; So likewise in our passage, we were five sundry times assayled by the Cursares and Pyrats of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevailing, for we were well provided with good Munition, and skilfull, Martiall, and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.

Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes, did carry twenty eight peeces of Ordonance, two of them brazen; and foure score strong and strenuous Saylers, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runagats, then any violent defence we made: for they durst never set on us, unlesse they had beene three together; and yet we little regarded them, in respect of our long reaching Ordonance, and expert Gunners: In these Circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, wee would see [Flying fish.] flockes of flying Fishes, scudding upon the curling waves, so long as their finnes be wet, which grow from their backe, as feathred wings doe from Fowles: But when they grow drye, they are forced to fall downe and wet them agayne, and then flye along. Their flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin, is in persuing them, who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them; whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels, but greater headed and shouldered. Meanewhile in these our Courses were we seven weekes crossed with Northerly Windes, ever Tackling and boarding from the Affricke Coast, to the Carminian shoare, in all which time wee saw no Land, except the boysterous billowes of glassie Neptune: And as Ovid sayde, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et aer, viz.

Nothing but Waves I view, where ships do floate
And dangers lye: huge Whales do tumbling play;
Above my head, Heavens star-imbroadred coate,
Whose vault containes, two eyes for night and day,
Far from the Maine, or any Marine Coast,
Twixt Borean blasts, and billowes we are tost.

If Ovid, in that strait Ionean deepe
Was tost so hard; much more am I on Seas
Of larger bounds; where staffe and Compasse Keepe
Their strict observance; yet in this unease
Of tackling Boards, we so the way make short,
That still our course, drawes neerer to the Port.

Betweene the streame, and silver spangled skye,
We rolling climbe, then hurling fall beneath;
Our way is Serpent like, in Meeds which lye,
That bowes the Grasse, but never makes no path:
But fitter like yong maides, and youths together,
Run here and there, alwhere, and none Know whether.

Our way we Know, and yet unknowne to other,
And whiles misknowne to us, before we dive;
The hand, and compasse, that governe the Ruther
Doe often erre: although the Pilots strive
With Cart and plot; their reckonings sometimes fall,
Too narrow, short, too high, too wide, too small.

To dascon this, remarke, when they set land,
Some this, some that, doe gesse, this Hill, that Cape;
For many houres, their skill in suspence stand
Tearming, this fore, that headland, points the Mape:
Which when mistooke, this forgd excuse goes cleare,
O such! and such a land, it first did peere.

In all which strife, stress'd Saylers have the paine
By drudging, pulling, hayling, standing to it
In cold and raine, both dry and wet, they straine
Themselves to toile, none else but they must doe it:
We passengers behold, with belching throats
Onely their taske atchievd in quivering boates.

Then since but ayre and water I perceive,
One's hot and moyst, the other moyst and cold;
It's earth that's cold and dry, I longing crave
And fire that's dry and hot, I wishing would;
Then thundring Æole, from thy seven rigged Towres,
Soone waft us o're, forth from these glassy Bowres.

My wish is come, I see each bulging sayle
For pride begins to swell, betweene two sheetes;
She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tayle,
And layes her side, close where the weather beats;
Both prone and puppe, do answere so the Helme,
The Steirsman sings, no griefe his joy can whelm.

By night our watch we set, by day our sight,
And thirle our Sailes, if Pirats but appeare;
We rest resolv'd, it's force, makes Cowards fight,
Though none more dare, then they that have most feare,
It's courage makes us rash, and wisdome cold,
Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lyon bold.

Now we looke out for Land, now we see Malt!
That little famous Ile, though sterrile soile;
Where we'le some Bay, or Creeke seeke to assault
Whence Ancorage, and safety ships recoile:
Now, now, let Anchor fall we're in the Road
Savely arriv'd, by providence of God.

This done, as time avouc'hd, I kindly bad
My Consorts all adew, then came a shoare,
Where I such plenty of great favours had,
That scarse the like, I ever found before.
These white cross'd Knights, with their eight pointed crosses,
Imbrac'd my sight, with it, my toiles, and tosses:
So ends my Verse, and so I'le straight disclose
The Ile, the Folkes, their Manners, in plaine Prose.

The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh Water that was spent; and therefore constrayned to beare in to this Ile: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land heere, to see the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our [A joyfull arrival in Malta.] Anchors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the shoare, I bad farwell to all the Company, and in a singular respect to my generous Captayne, who would have nothing for my victuales and transportation from Ægypt; except a few relicts of Jerusalem: The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.

This City is divided in two, the old and new Malta, from which the Ile taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly fortified with invincible walles, and two impregnable Castles St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; St. Michael being distant from both: Here the great Master or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard made much of me for Jerusalems sake; so did also a number of these gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of mine, being a souldier there, named William Douglas, who afterward for his long and good service at sea was solemnely Knighted, and made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene since as plausibly regarded by the Maltezes, as Monsieur Creichton his worth, in learning and excellent memory, rests admired in Italy, but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the house of Mantua; for whose losse, and accidentall death, they still heavily bemone: acknowledging that the race of that Princely stock, by Gods judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.

[The Ile of Malta.] Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28. 1. 2. where the Viper leaped on Paules hand; I saw also the Creeke wherein he was shipwracked: This Iland may properly be termed the Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds, for their Cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sycilia: but it yeeldeth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges, Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina; from thence to the Rhodes, & now exposed to this rocky Ile. They are pertinacious foes to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome; it is a most honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being intangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they are mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath been when their auncestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.

This Ile was given in possession to these Knights of St. John, by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all-utterly to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado, and assayled Malta, Anno 1565. when Valetta was great [An invincible victory.] maister, who so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated, and forced to returne.

This Iland is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as the clymat might afford: It containeth besides the City, forty seven Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants whereof, are of the Affrican complexion, tanny, and Sun-burnt; and their language semblable to the Barbarian speech, without any great difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arabick: And not unlike therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from the auncient; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the auncient, then the Italian is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are extreamely bent, in all their actions, either to good or evill wanting fortitude of minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours of their passions, but as the headstrong-tide, so their dispositions runne, in the superfluous excesse of affections.

They follow the Romane Church, though ignorant of the way, and their woemen be lovely faire, going head-covered with blacke vayles, and much inclined to [The nature of the Maltezes.] licentiousnesse; their beauties being burrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the beauty and lovely proportion of the body, should be preferred before the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy: since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire and rich wardrope. In this Towne of Malta, there are many Turkish and Moorish slaves, very rudely treat, yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Christianes indure upon their Gallies in Barbary or Turky: The discription of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my second Travells; and after twelve daies staying here, I imbarked in a Frigat with other passengers, and arrived at Cicly in the South-east corner of Sicilia, being three score miles distant.

From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa, I rancounterd by the way, in a clifty Creeke close by the sea side, a Moorish Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them, I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me, with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I came: where, when freed, I hastned to the next Watch-tower, marine set, and there told the Centinell, how a [A Moorish Brigantine.] Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how hardly I escaped their hands: whereupon he making a fire on the top of the Tower, and from him all the Watch-towers along, gave presently warning to the contrey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages came downe on horse and foote, and well armed, and demanding me seriously of the trueth, I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them, wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last they were all seazed upon, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines, and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence they were carried to Syracusa, I went also along with them, where, by the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me for discovering them: from Syracusa (being condemned to the galleyes) upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36. in number.

They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies, and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place: Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites, and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.

From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.

[An happy arrivall.] From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome, being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities rest revolv'd in these following verses.

Illustrat Sænas, patriæ facundia Lingua,
Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives;
Libera luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus:
Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem:
Genua habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas:
Excellit studiis, facunda Bononia cunctis,
Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque Butirum,
Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis;
Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra Placentia caris:
Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,
Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum,
Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.

Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola [The Ligurian Alpes.] di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes: I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.

After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria, over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.

[A happy escape from murder.] After I had sup'd and going to bed, in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where, when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe, and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger, newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.

This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore confirmed my life, which for the former respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready, they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well they sup'd, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.

All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned [A guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.] that my Host was suspected to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entering the Towne wherein I was borne.

Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight, kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris: whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel: and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.

THE END OF THE FIRST BOOKE, OF MY FIRST TRAVAILES.

THE EIGHT PART, &c.

Contayning the second Booke of my second Travailes.

Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur, si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.

Let not surmisers thinke, ambition led
My second toyles, more flash flowne praise to wed;
Nay; there was reason, and the cause is Knowne
For Courtly crosses, seldome stay unshowne:
Well, I am sped; through Belgia then I trace;
And footing Rhyne, to Geneve kept my pace,
Thence cross'd I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds,
The hils Appenine, the Ætrurian rounds:
And nighting Rome, Parthenope I past,
Even to Rhegio, of Townes Calabriaes last:
Whence Sicily I view'd, and Ætna Mount;
And Malta too, as I before was wont:
Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood,
And Scipio shed streames of Numidian blood.
Hence Tremizen I trac'd, the Barbars shoare
To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlanticke glore;
The Berdoans Country, and the Lybian sands,
The Garolines parch'd bounds, the Sabunck lands;
And diverse soiles, of Savage Heathnick bounds,
Whose names and stiles, this Affricke story sounds.
Last in the Lybian lists, I'me forc'd to stay,
Whence I return'd, for Tunneis the next way;
And resting there, till Æoles seaven rig'd Towres,
Prest Tritons backe; (crost Neptunes Paramours)
And wish'd me saile; O then with speedy flight
I boord the Ship, and bad the Moores good-night.

True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall, in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first: Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second: Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned the right Canon.

As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique, is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious, as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most necessary, to wit, the science of the world.

[The necessary use and honour of Travels.] This is it above all things that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof; and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth; neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions, for as judgement is seldome compatible with youth, but reserved to old age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation, by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe, so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second perambulation, it is best reserved [The Authors Apology.] to my owne knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy, and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves, then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them: And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come to the matter it selfe.

Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke, and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.

To view the ruines of thy wasted walles,
Loe! I am come, bewayling thy disgrace,
Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so enstalles
To be the mirrour for a Martiall face:
I, sure its thou, whose bloody bathing bounds,
Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.

What Hostile force, besieg'd thee poore Ostend?
With all Engine, that ever Warre devised:
What Martiall troupes, did valiantly defend
Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurpris'd
By cruell assaults, and desperate defence,
Thine undeserved name, wonne honour thence.

Some deepe interr'd, within thy bosome lye,
Some rot, some rent, some torne in peeces small:
Some warlike maim'd, some lame, some halting crye:
Some blowne through Clouds, some brought to deadly thral,
Whose dire defects, renew'd with ghostly mones,
May match the Thebane, or the Trojan groanes:

Base fisher towne, that fang'd thy nets before,
And drencht into the deepe thy food to win:
Art thou become a Tragicke stage, and more
Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin
To show the world, more then the world would crave,
How all thine intrench'd ground, became one grave.

Thy digged ditches, turn'd a gulfe of blood,
Thy wals defeat, were rear'd with fatall bones:
Thine houses equall with the streetes they stood;
Thy limits come, a Sepulcher of groanes:
Whence Cannons ror'd, from fiery cracking smoake
Twixt two extreames thy desolation broake.

Thou God of War, whose thundring sounds do feare
This circled space, plac'd here below the rounds,
Thou in oblivion hast Sepulchrized here,
Earths dearest life, for now what else redounds
But sighes and sobs, when treason, sword, and fire,
Have throwne al down, when al thought to aspire.

Forth from thy marches, and frontiers about
In sanguine hew, thou dy'd the fragrant fields;
The camped trenches of thy foes without
Were turn'd to blood, for valour never yeelds
So bred ambition, honour, courage, hate,
Long three yeares siege, to overthrow thy state.

At last from threatning terrour of despaire,
Thine hembd defendants, with divided walles
Were forcd to rander, then came mourning care
Of mutuall foes, for friends untimely falles:
Thus lost, and got, by wrong, and lawlesse right
My judgement thinkes thee scarcely worth the sight:
But there's the question, when my Muse hath done,
Whether the victor, or the vanquisht wonne.

To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feete in two moneths space; the description whereof is so amply set downe by moderne Authors, that it requireth no more: onely this, for policies, industries, strong Townes, and fortifications, it is the mirrour of vertue, and the garden of Mars; yea, and the light of all Europe, that he who hath exactly trade it, may say [Weisle taken by Spineola.] he hath seene the mappe of the whole Universe: And now ascending to Cleve, I came just to Grave Maurice Campe at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken Weisle; betweene which Armies for five weekes I had free intercourse, being kindly respected by both the Generalls: for Spineola set me at his owne table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of Newenberg, and Don Pietro di Toledo being there both for the time: So with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the Marques of Brandeburg, certaine Nobles, and forraine Ambassadours. All which time, O how it grieved me to see the tyranny of the Spaniards dayly executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom they domineered like Divells: for these afflicted Cittizens, being heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleagured with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies; and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walles, though their mindes were without, and intirely with the assailants.

Bidding adew to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his Sonne, whom I conducted to Italy: scarcely had we out-stripd Rhyneberg (where Collonell Edmond was slaine) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and pocket-moneys, with five souldiers French and Vallones; and that within a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us, they being with Carts serving Spineolaes Campe.

[The fabulous miracles of Culloine.] Whence the next day approaching Culloine, and bills of change answered, wee visited the falsly supposed Tombes of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists say, lye interred there. O filthy and base absurdnesse for their holy Mother Church to confirme hellish and erronious leyes; for these Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North: Or if they wil have them to die there and so buried, surely this is even such another damnable errour, surpassing tradition, as their wandring Jew, the Shoomaker of Jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they have wrot ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the 11000. Virgins heads, Martyres, indeed we saw the Church-walles all indented about with bare sculles, but whose heads they were, the Lord knoweth; from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chappell, within a Vineyard, called the Chappell of miracles; the originall whereof was thus. Upon a festivall day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to the Towne, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the wals) did eate his belly full of the grapes; and thereafter hearing a Masse, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, [A forged and false miracle.] hee fell a vomiting, and casting up with what hee had eaten the Holy Sacrament, it straight turned in the likenesse of a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow, run backe and told his Confessour, what was done, and his offence who had eaten grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessour told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates comming to the place, and beholding as it were an Angell, grew astonished.

In end they wrapped up their little dead god, in a Cambricke vayle, and there buried it; building this Chappel above the place: where ever since there is a world of leying miracles done: Loe these are the novelties of Culloine.

Thence ascending the Rhyne, and coasting Heidleberg, I saluted the Princesse Palatine, with certayne rare Relickes of the Holy Land. And leaving Mounsieur Bruce there till my returne, I went for Noorenberg to discover the sixe Germanes death, whom I had buried in the Desarts, and Grand-Cayre of Ægypt, for the two Barons were subject to the Marquesse of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters, and Kinsmen, and delated to them their deathes, I was presently carryed to their Prince the Marquesse, to whom I related the whole Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of the other, were instantly invested in their Lands; and I likewise, by them all great regarded and rewarded. And after ten dayes feasting, reviewing Heidleberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia, or Switzerland.

This Countrey is divided in thirteene Cantons, sixe whereof are Protestants, and sixe Papists; the odde Canton being likewise halfe and halfe. The most puissant whereof is Bierne, whose Territory lying along the lake reacheth within a League of Geneve. The people, and their service to most Christian Princes, are well knowne, being Manly, Martiall and trusty faithfull.

Here in the Canton of Bierne neere to Urbs, wee went and saw a young Woman, who then had neyther eate, [A woman fasting fourteene yeares.] nor drunke, nor yet excremented for thirteene yeares, being truely qualified by her Parents, Friends, Physitians, and other Visitors. She was alwayes Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that her Anatomised body carryed nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet was she alwayes mindefull of God. And the yeare after this time, her body returned agayne to the naturall vigour, in appetite and all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, dyed in the fifth yeare thereafter.

The day following, we entred Geneve, where sighting the Towne, the chiefe Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the foure Captaines were all familiarly acquainted with me, with whom in diverse places, I daily feasted and discoursed. The Ministers one night propining me with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of them selves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest sixe Leagues off, a Curate, of a Village in Madame du longeviles Countrey, who had gotten in his owne Parish, three Widdowes, and their three severall Daughters with childe, and all about one time: and for this his Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went hither, and upon the sequell day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallowes, as high as a stripad: The three mothers and their three Daughters were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowfull hearts, and eye-gushing teares for their sinne and shame, were lamentable to behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for dividing their legges, and opening their wretched Wombes. Lo there is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry, and yet may mis carry themselves in all abhominations, especially in Sodomy, which is their continuall pleasure and practise. Returning to Geneve, and acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession, for they are great Intelligencers, I wrot this literal Distich:

Glance, Glorious Geneve, Gospell-Guiding Gem;
Great God Governe Good Geneves Ghostly Game.