Chapter I: Part 1

Through England

On a Side Saddle

IN THE TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY

BEING THE DIARY OF

_CELIA FIENNES._

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WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

THE HON. MRS GRIFFITHS.

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_LONDON:
Field & Tuer, The Leadenhall Press, E.C.
Simpkin, Marshall & Co.; Hamilton, Adams & Co._

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_New York: Scribner & Welford, 743 & 745, Broadway._

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1888

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FIELD & TUER,
THE LEADENHALL PRESS, E.C.
(T. 4346)
]

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_THIS VOLUME_

IS

Dedicated

TO THE DEAR MEMORY OF

My Father,

13TH BARON SAYE AND SELE.

E. W. G.

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INTRODUCTION.

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THE account of the several journeys through England undertaken by my kinswoman, Celia Fiennes, in the reign of William and Mary, may prove interesting, as shewing the manners and customs of those times. The writer’s diligent and attentive observation of details concerning the various counties through which she passed, either on horseback or in her equipage, and her descriptions of the many gentlemen’s seats visited by her, seem worthy of notice and preservation. Numerous towns are described, and a great many churches and country seats—some of which doubtless no longer exist—are minutely detailed. There being little literature of this kind and period in existence, Celia Fiennes’s diary almost takes the position and value of an historical document. The portion relating to London is interesting. The Lord Mayor’s Show and other ceremonies are fully described. The perusal of these quaint and straight-forward pages, in which there is little pretence to style, gives a good idea of what England was two hundred years back. The only actual date mentioned is 1695. The absence of roads strikes one, and also the unimportance of what are now the great manufacturing districts of the north. Bristol appears to have been the second city in the kingdom. The fashionable baths and spas and style of bathing are minutely described. With the exception of the dome, St Paul’s Cathedral was finished, and Whitehall Palace had recently been burned—the authoress suspects by Papist incendiaries.

The original MS., given to me by my father, has been copied verbatim, as I believe any correction or alteration would spoil its quaint originality. Celia Fiennes was daughter of Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes, a Parliamentarian Officer, by his marriage with Miss Whitehead, and was sister of the third Viscount Saye and Sele.

EMILY W. GRIFFITHS.

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TO THE READER.

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AS this was never designed: soe not likely to fall into the hands of any but my near relations, there needs not much to be said to Excuse or recommend it. Something may be diverting and proffitable tho’ not to Gentlemen that have travelled more about England, staid longer in places, might have more acquaintance and more opportunity to be inform’d. My Journeys as they were begun to regain my health by variety and change of aire and exercise, soe whatever promoted that was pursued; and those informations of things as could be obtein’d from jnns en passant, or from some acquaintance, inhabitants of such places could ffurnish me with for my diversion, I thought necessary to remark: that as my bodily health was promoted my mind should not appear totally unoccupied, and the collecting it together remain for my after conversation (with such as might be inquisitive after such and such places) to w^{ch} might have recourse; and as most I converse with knows both the ffreedom and Easyness I speak and write as well as my deffect in all, so they will not expect exactness or politeness in this book, tho’ such Embellishments might have adorned the descriptions and suited the nicer taste.

Now thus much without vanity may be asserted of the subject, that if all persons, both Ladies, much more Gentlemen, would spend some of their tyme in Journeys to visit their native Land, and be curious to Inform themselves and make observations of the pleasant prospects, good buildings, different produces and manufactures of each place, with the variety of sports and recreations they are adapt to, would be a souveraign remedy to cure or preserve ffrom these Epidemick diseases of vapours, should I add Laziness?—it would also fform such an Idea of England, add much to its Glory and Esteem in our minds and cure the evil Itch of overvalueing fforeign parts; at least ffurnish them with an Equivalent to entertain strangers when amongst us, Or jnform them when abroad of their native Country, which has been often a Reproach to the English, ignorance and being strangers to themselves. Nay the Ladies might have matter not unworthy their observation, soe subject for conversation, within their own compass in each county to which they relate, and thence studdy now to be serviceable to their neighbours especially the poor among whome they dwell, which would spare them the uneasye thoughts how to pass away tedious dayes, and tyme would not be a burthen when not at a card or dice table, and the ffashions and manners of fforeign parts less minded or desired. But much more requisite is it for Gentlemen in g^l service of their country at home or abroad, in town or country, Especially those that serve in parliament to know and jnform themselves y^e nature of Land, y^e Genius of the Inhabitants, so as to promote and improve Manufacture and trade suitable to each and encourage all projects tending thereto, putting in practice all Laws made for each particular good, maintaining their priviledges, procuring more as requisite; but to their shame it must be own’d many if not most are Jgnorant of anything but the name of the place for which they serve in parliament; how then can they speake for or promote their good or Redress their Grievances? But now I may be justly blamed to pretend to give acc: of our Constitution, Customs, Laws, Lect, matters farre above my Reach or capacity, but herein I have described what have come within my knowledge either by view and reading, or relation from others which according to my conception have faithfully Rehearsed, but where I have mistaken in any form or subject matter I easily submitt to a correction and will enter such Erratas in a supplement annext to y^e Book of some particulars since remark’d; and shall conclude with a hearty wish and recommendation to all, but Especially my own Sex, the studdy of those things which tends to Improve the mind and makes our Lives pleasant and comfortable as well as proffitable in all the Stages and Stations of our Lives, and render suffering and age supportable and Death less fformidable and a future State more happy.

CELIA FIENNES.

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THE DIARY

OF

_CELIA FIENNES_

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_THE ACCOUNT OFF_

severall Journeys into severall parts of England with many Remarkes; some w^{th} my mother from Newtontony Wiltshire which is all on the downs a fine Champion Country pleasant for all sports, Rideing, Hunting, Courseing, Setting and shooteing. From Newtontony I went to Sarum 8 miles which is a Citty and Bishop’s Seat, pretty Large town Streetes broad but through y^e midst of them runs a little rivulet of water which makes y^e Streetes not so clean or so easye to pass in, they have stepps to Cross it and many open places for horses and Carriages to Cross itt—itt takes off Much from the beauty of y^e streetes—the Cause of it was from the burning of the old town called Salsebury which was on a hill about a mile off this and it was so drye and farre from springs that it was destroyed by fire and only the ruines of the Castle is to be seen like a high wall with fortifications: this town now Stands low by the water by a great River, the houses are old Mostly timber Buildings, there is a large Market House with the town hall over it and a prison Just by—there is also a large Cross in another place and house over it for a Constant Market for fruite, fowle, Butter and Cheese and a fish Market; the town is well served with all provissions; there is good buildings in that part they call the Close, both New built and y^e old good houses belonging to the doctors of the Church. Y^e Dean has a very good house and Gardens, so is the Bishop’s Palace at y^e end of a Row of trees—the roomes are lofty and Stately: all these houses are round y^e Cathedrall which is esteemed the finest in England in all respects, it only lyes low in a watry meadow so y^t the foundations is in the water, made of ffaggots and timber, yet notwithstanding its want of a Riseing ground to stand on y^e steeple is seen many miles off, the spire being so high it appeares to us below as sharpe as a Dagger, Yet is in the Compass on the top as bigg as a Cart wheele; its all stone and Carved finely with spires and Arches, there are severall doores into y^e Church, in the body of it stands the pulpet and seates on each side; there are two large Isle’s runnes up on either side; the font stands below opposite to the quire y^t enters w^{th} 2 or 3 steps assent from a large Cross Isle that leades to the Cloysters, in which is y^e Chapter house which is very large and supported only by one small stone Pillar in y^e middle, painted round the walls with figures Carved y^e whole accō: of the book of Genesis, the Windows are painted very finely—Much of the History of the Bible. There is as many little Chappels in the Church as months in a yeare, as many doores as weekes, as many Marble pillars as dayes, as many windows as houres, as many partitions in the windows as minutes in the year. The roofe of the Church is very lofty and exactly neate in all things though not so large as some other Cathedralls—the top of the Qoire is exactly painted and it lookes as fresh as if but new done though of 300 yeares standing—there is a very good organ and a deske for the reader raised so high even with the organ for y^e advantage of the voice to be heard, yet y^e Church is so lofty y^t y^e Eccos drowns y^e Intelligableness of the voice. The Comunion table, hangings and y^e booses are all of crimson velvet with gold fringe, 2 large Candlestickes gilt w^{th} great white tapers in them, a large gilt bason to receive y^e offerings in—there is many good monuments there, also there are ye Statues of the 3 bishops that built the Church cut in stone—there are two large fine monuments above y^e Rest—one all free stone for the lord George, his Effiges and ladyes att length on a bed in their Robes and ruffs on pillows, and y^e four pillars are twisted, and over it Angels, figures of birds, beasts, flowers and leaves very fine, there sits Justice w^{th} y^e ballance in her hand, one scale laying over y^e other twisted lookes very natural and well, with y^e wreathed work all in free stone with their Armes cut about in Escutheons all about it; the other is a monument for the Duke of Summerset all in marble, a large bed his Effigee in garment and ruff all in Coullours, his lady the same only she is laid one step above him because she was Daughter to the Dowager of ffrance and sister to Henry y^e 7^{th} of England by her second husband Charles brandon Duke of Suffolk.

There is y^e Effiges of their 2 sonnes, Lord Beachom at their head and Lord Seymour at y^e feete in Armour on their Knees, and severall Daughters on their knees at y^e bottom and 12 pillars of Irish gray marble. The Armes is cutt finely in Escutcheons &c. and in figures with y^e supporters and severall sorts of beasts carved in a piramide fashion, and on y^e top the Duke’s Corronet—these 2 monum^{ts} are railed in with Iron grates, there is the Effigee in stone off a doctor that starved himself to death attempting to imitate our Saviour to fast 40 dayes—but at 31 dayes end he became sensible of his evil and would have retrieved his life by eateing againe, but then by y^e Just judgment of god could not swallow any thing down his throate;—there is a chaple or burying place of Judge poppums that had two very wild sonnes and by 2 pictures of his sonnes, pictured one with death y^e other with a skeleton and set in y^e room they were to come into by their father’s order, it pleased God to bless as a meanes to reclaim them. Ye pictures are still there; the windows of the Church but especially y^e Quire are very finely painted and large of y^e history of y^e bible—the tower ffor y^e bells are in y^e yard at some distance from the Church—there are 6 Churches in the town and subburbs and y^e County Goal at y^e end of the town called ffisherton, just by the great river that runnes to Christ-Church in Salsebury. They keep the quarter session once in y^e yeare the oth^r tymes are kept at Malbrough about 24 mile off and at y^e Devises about y^e same distance w^{ch} is a very neate little town with a very good market house and town hall sett on stone pillars; it is a bourrough and a very rich tradeing place ffor the Clothing trade, the fourth place y^e session is kept is Warminster about y^e same distance—its a pretty little town a good Market for corn and there is the Mindiffe Coale which is allmost as good as the sea Coale from New-Castle that is dugg out of the hills all about;—But y^e Assizes is allwayes kept at Salsebury and is a Major town though Wilton about 2 mile off is y^e County town and y^e Knights of y^e shire are chosen there, though its now but as a little village as it were, and only supported by the Earle of Pembrooke which lives there and has a very ffine house with large Courts one within another. At y^e Entrance there is a lofty Hall with good Pictures, 3 or 4 dineing roomes and drawing roomes of State with very good bed Chambers and well furnished velvet damaske and tissue, one Gallery and y^e dineing roome was all wanscoated with pictures of y^e family—there is a drawing roome and Anti roome, y^e wanscoate is painted with y^e whole History of the Acadia romance made by S^r Philip Sidney, brother to the then Countess of Pembrooke and Composed by him in y^e ffine woods above y^e house.

Another room is painted w^{th} all sorts of sports, Hunting, Hawking &c.—they are all finely painted on the Ceiling and very lofty. there is one dineing roome y^t the Chimney is just under a window and the Tunnells runnes upon each side. there is one Chamber, the chimney stands Just by the window opposite to Salsebury, and on the black Marble Chimney piece soe finely polished you may see all the Cathedrall as in a Glass; I have seen it plaine. There are very fine Marble Chimney pieces in most of y^e roomes, and marble windows. The Gardens are very fine with many gravel walkes with grass squaires set with fine brass and stone statues—fish ponds and basons with ffigures in y^e middle spouting out water—dwarfe trees of all sorts and a fine flower garden—much wall fruite. Y^e river runns through y^e garden that easeily conveys by pipes water to all Parts.

A Grottoe is att y^e end of the garden just y^e middle off y^e house—its garnished with many fine ffigures of y^e Goddesses, and about 2 yards off the doore is severall pipes in a line that with a sluce spoutts water up to wett the strangers—in the middle roome is a round table and a large Pipe in the midst, on which they put a Crown or Gun or a branch, and so y^t spouts the water through y^e Carvings and poynts all round y^e roome at y^e Artists pleasure to wet y^e Company—there are figures at Each corner of y^e roome that Can weep water on the beholders and by a straight pipe on y^e table they force up y^e water into y^e hollow carving of y^e rooff like a Crown or Coronet to appearance but is hollow within to retaine y^e water fforced into it in great quantetyes y^t disperses in y^e hollow Cavity over y^e roome and descends in a Shower of raine all about y^e roome—on each side is two little roomes which by the turning their wires y^e water runnes in y^e rockes—you see and hear it and also it is so contrived in one room y^t it makes y^e melody of Nightingerlls and all sorts of birds w^{ch} engages y^e Curiosity of y^e Strangers to go in to see, but at y^e Entrance off each room is a line of pipes that appear not till by a Sluce moved—it washes y^e spectators designed for diversion.

Y^e Grottoe is leaded on y^e top where are fish ponds, and just without y^e grottoe is a wooden bridge over y^e river. Y^e barristers are set out w^{th} Lyons set thick on Either Side w^{th} their mouths open, and by a sluce spout out water each to other in a perfect arch y^e length of y^e bridge. There are fine woods beyond y^e house and a large parke walled in. From thence I went to Blandford in Dorsetshire 18 miles through a haire waring and a forest of y^e Kings.

Blandford is a pretty neate Country town. Thence to Merly by Wimborn over a great river Called the Stoure and a large Arched bridge to a Relations house, S^r William Constantines house—thence to Poole a little seaport town 4 miles off where was a very good Minister in y^e publick Church—M^r Hardy.

From thence we went by boate to a little Isle Called brownsea 3 or 4 leagues off where there is much Copperice made, the stones being found about y^e Isle in y^e shore in great quantetyes. there is only one house there w^{ch} is the Governours, besides little fishermen’s houses; they being all taken up about y^e Copperice workes; they gather y^e Stones and place them on ground raised like y^e beds in gardens, rows one above the other and are all Shelving, so y^t y^e raine disolves y^e Stones and it draines down into trenches and pipes made to receive and Convey it to y^e house, y^{ch} is fitted with Iron panns four square and of a pretty depth at least 12 yards over. They place Iron spikes in y^e panns full of branches and so as y^e Liquor boyles to a candy it hangs on those branches; I saw some taken up—it look’d like a vast bunch of grapes. Y^e Coullour of y^e Copperace not being much differing it lookes cleare like Suger-Candy—so when y^e water is boyled to a Candy they take it out and replenish the panns with more liquor. I do not remember they added anything to it only y^e Stones of Copperice disolved by y^e raine into liquor as I mention’d at first—there are great furnaces under, y^t Keepes all the panns boyling—it was a large room or building with Severall of these large panns: they do add old Iron and nailes to y^e Copperass Stones. This is a noted place for lobsters and Crabs and shrimps. I there eate some very good. From Merly we went to y^e Isle of Purbeck. At Warrum we passed over a bridge where y^e sea flowed in, and Came by y^e ruines of Corffe Castle which stands on a hill, yet surrounded by much higher hills y^t might easily command it, and so in y^e Civil warrs was batter’d down with Granadeers—thence you rise a great ascent of hills, called the Linch or rather y^e ridge, being so for 3 or 4 miles, rideing to Quare, which was 16 miles ffrom Merly to a relations house—Cos’n Colliers.

From this ridge you see all y^e Island over, which lookes very fruitfull, good lands, Meadows, woods and jnclosures—there are many quarys in these hills of y^t w^{ch} is called the free stone from hence they digg it—the shores are very Rocky all about y^e Island. We went 3 miles off to Sonidge a sea faire place not very big—there is a flatt sand by y^e sea a little way: they take up stones by y^e shores y^t are so oyly, as y^e poor burn it for ffire, and its so light a ffire it Serves for Candle too, but it has a strong offensive smell. At a place 4 mile off called Sea Cume the Rockes are so Craggy and y^e Creekes of land so many y^t y^e sea is very turbulent—I pick’d shells and it being a spring tide I saw y^e sea beat upon y^e Rockes at least 20 yards with Such a ffoame or ffroth—and at another place the rockes had so large a Cavity and Hollow y^t when y^e Sea flowed in, it runne almost round and Sounded like some hall or high arch. In this Island are severall pretty good houses though not very large. Att Kingston, S^r William Muese has a pretty house, and att Income M^r Coliffords—Doonshay, M^r Dollings and 7 mile off Quare. Att Finnum, lady Larences, there is a pretty large house but very old timber built: there I eate y^e best Lobsters and Crabs, being boyled in y^e Sea water and scarce Cold—very large and Sweet. Most of the houses in y^e Island are built of stone—this is Just by the great Cliffts w^{ch} are a vast height from y^e sea—here is plenty of provision of all sorts especially of fish. ffrom Finnum we ascend a high hill of a great length till you are out of y^e Island which does hardly appeare to be now an Isle, the tide having left it on this side that you passe only a little Brooke. There is another Castle called Brindon, but y^t lyes low and appears not much—thence we came to Piddle 6 or 7 miles off where was a relation—Mr Oxenbridg; an old house w^{ch} formerly was an abby—thence to Dorchester town 5 miles—it stands on y^e side of a Hill the river runnes below it—the town lookes Compact and the streetes are very neately pitch’d and of a good breadth—The Market-place is spaceious—The Church very handsome and full of galleries.

Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony and very narrow—the town has a steep hill to descend through the whole place—thence to Woolfe 4 miles to a relation—Mr Newbery a man of many whymseys—would keep no women servants—had all washing, Ironing dairy and all performed by men—his house look’s like a little village when you Come into y^e Yard—so many little buildings apart from each other—one for a stillitory—another for out houses and offices, another long building for Silk wormes, and y^e dwelling house is but mean and spoyl’d by his ffancy of makeing a hall up 3 storyes high and so lofty nothing suiteable to it. He had good gardens and orchards much good ffruite, but all in a most rude Confused manner. Thence we went to Colway neare Lime in Somersetshire about 8 miles to a relations house Mr Hendly’s—from thence it is 2 miles to Lime a seaport place open to the main ocean, and so high and bleake Sea, that to secure the Harbour for shipps they have been at a great Charge to build a Mold from the town with stone like a halfe Moon, w^{ch} they call the Cobb; its raised with a high wall and this runns into y^e Sea a good Compass that y^e Shipps rides safely within it, when the tide is out we may see the foundations of some part of it—that is the tyme they looke over it to see any breach and repaire it immediately, else y^e tide come with so much violence would soone beate it down—there is some part of it low and only is to joyne y^e rest to the land, and at high water is all Cover’d of such a depth of water that shipps may pass over it to enter the Cobb or halfe moone, which is difficult for fforeigners to attempt, being ignorant, though its better than goeing round the other way for those that know and do observe the tide—the spring tides and any Storme does some tymes beate up and wash over the walls of the forte or castle into the Court and so runns into the town, though at other tymes when its’ the ordinary tide and calme sea it is at least 300 yards from the banke on which the high wall is built—In most parts of somersetshire it is very fruitfull for Orchards, plenty of apples and peares, but they are not Curious in the Planting the best sort of fruite which is a great pitty, being so soone produced and such quantetyes, they are likewise as Careless when they make Cider—they press all sorts of Apples together, else they might have as good sider as in any other parts, even as good as the Herrifordshire—they make great quantetyes of Cider, their presses are very large, so as I have seen a Cheese as they call them which yeilded 2 hoddsheads—they pound their apples, then lay fresh straw on the press, and on that a good lay off Pulp of the apples, then turne in the ends of the straw over it all round and lay fresh straw, then more apples up to the top. Just by Lime you Cross a little brooke into Devonshire which is much like Somersetshire—fruitfull Country’s for Corn, graseing, much for inclosures that makes the wayes very narrow, so as in some places a Coach and Waggons Cannot pass—they are forced to Carry their Corn and Carriages on horses’ backes with frames of wood like pannyers on either side y^e horse, so load it high and tye it w^{th} Cords—this they do altogether the farther Westward they goe for y^e wayes grow narrower and narrower on to y^e lands end. They shewed me the Lizard point from Lime, it was a good distance—Y^e land grows narrower in a compass round, as it were round the sea. From lime the wayes are also difficult by reason of the very steep hill up and down, and that so successively as little or no plaine even ground, and full of large smooth pebbles that make the strange horses slip and uneasye to go—the horses of the Country are accustomed to it and travell well in the rodes—in y^e opener wayes they use a sort of waine or carriage made narrower than our Southern Waggon, but longer and so load them high—from Lime to Burport is 12 miles and so to Dorchester; thence to Blandford we pass over Woodbery hill eminent for a great Faire that is kept there of all things: the road passed by Cherbery—the foot of the hill on the Slope stands a pretty Seate of Mr Earles my relation—the house is new built on y^e brow of y^e hill whence you have large prospects of 20 mile round—you may see Shaftesbury thence 16 mile off—there is a good wood behind the house, good gardens wall’d with plenty of fruit, good fish and decoy pounds. There is a very good Hall at the entrance leads you to a large parlour and drawing room on y^e right hand that opens to the gardens—a very good little parlour on the left with servants room, and another parlour for smoakeing, all well wanscoated and painted and the offices convenient—the Chambers are good and lofty and sizeable—good ffurniture in the best 2 Chambers, in an angle the staires leads up halfe way into y^e middle of the house and so divides in four parts and runnes to each angle.

Thence 6 miles to Blandford, thence 18 to Salsebury and 8 mile to Newtontony which stands in y^e midst of y^e downs 8 mile from Andover a market town in Hampshire and y^e roade to London. It lyes 15 mile from Winchester—it is three mile from Amesbury and 2 mile more to Stoneage that stands on Salsebury plaine—eminent for many battles being faught there—this Stoneage is reckon’d one of the wonders of England how such prodigeous stone should be brought there, as no such Stone is seen in y^e Country nearer than 20 mile. They are placed on the side of a hill in a rude jregullar form—two stones stands up and one laid on their tops with morteses into each other and thus are severall in a round like a wall with spaces between, but some are fallen down, so spoyle the order or breach in the temple, as some think it was in the heathen tymes; others thinke it the Trophy of some victory wone by one Ambrosious, and thence the town by it has its name of Amesbury. There is severall rows of lesser stones within the others set up in the same forme of 2 upright and one lies on the top like a gateway. How they were brought thither or whether they are a made stone is not resolved—they are very hard yet I have seen some of them scraped—the weather seemes not to penetrate them. To increase the wonder of the story is that none Can Count them twice alike—they stand confused and some single stones at a distance but I have told them often, and bring their number to 91. This Country is most Champion and open, pleasant for recreations—its husbandry is mostly Corn and sheep, the Downs though short grass y^e feed is sweet, producing the finest wooll and sweet meat though but small.

The little towns or villages lies in the valleys and runs along in the bottom and are called Bourns having water running in most of them. From Stonidge I went to Evell in Somersetshire, thence to Meer a little town about 15 mile; by the town is a vast high hill called the Castle of Meer—its now all grass over and so steepe up that the ascent is by footsteps cut in the side of the hill. I was on the top where some had been digging and was come to a space that was Arched and the walls plaistred and washed white and smooth—it was but a little roome, I tooke a piece of its walls and plaister. That shews there may be Cells or vaults in the hill—from thence to Wincauton 7 miles which is on a steep hill and very stoney—you go through the town all the way down as it were a steep precipice, all Rocks—thence to Castle Cary 3 or 4 miles—its generally a good fruitfull Country, much on jnclosures as is most of Summersetshire.

Thence to Alford 2 miles where was a minerall water which Company resorts to for drinking—formerly it has been more frequented than of late—many now send for them severall miles and have Beer brewed of them—there being no good accomodation for people of fashion, the Country people being a Clownish rude people. Y^e waters are mostly from Alom—its a Cleare little well and a quick spring—the bottom of the well has a sort of Blewish Clay or Marle, its a quick purger, good for all sharpe Humers or Obstruction. In three mile of this place is Queen Camell famous for a fine ring of bells and for the fine sort of brown thread called Nuns thread—as we returned from thence we came by Bruton a very neate stone built town—from it we ascend a very high steep hill all in a narrow Lane cut out of the rocks on which grow trees thick, their Roots runns amongst the rocks, and in many places fine Clean springs buble out, and run a long out of the rocks, it smells Just like the sea. we were full an hour passing that hill though with four horses and a Chariot. My sister self and Maid: thence to Willding which is a place of much water, so to Newtontony in all 30 miles.

Another Journey to the Bath, from Newtontony to Warminster 18 miles a good road town and good way; thence to Breackly 5 mile a Deep Clay way, we passed over one Common of some miles Length on a narrow Causy that a Coach can scarce pass, all pitched with slatts and stones—our Coach was once wedged in y^e wheele in the stones that severall men were forced to lift us out; its made only for Packhorses which is the way of Carriage in those parts. Y^e Common is so Moorish their feete and wheeles would sinke in, so no going there—thence to Philip Norton 3 miles a very neate stone built village. Thence you pass a good way between 2 stone walls to the bath, 5 mile down a very steep hill and stony, a mile from the town scarce any passing and there descends a little Current of water continually from the rocks. The wayes to the bath are all difficult, the town lyes Low in a bottom and its steep ascents all wayes out of the town. The houses are indifferent, the streetes of a good size well pitched. There are severall good houses built for Lodgings that are new and adorned, and good furniture, the baths in my opinion makes the town unpleasant, the aire so low, encompassed with high hills and woods. There is 5 baths the hot bath the most hot springs—its but small and built all round, which makes it y^e hotter—out of it runns the water into a bath called the Le pours.

The third bath is called the Cross bath w^{ch} is some thing bigger then the former and not so hot; the Cross in the middle has seates round it for y^e Gentlemen to sitt, and round the walls are Arches w^{th} seates for the Ladyes, all stone and the seate is stone and if you thinke the seate is too Low they raise it with a Coushon as they call it, another Stone, but indeed the water bears you up that y^e seate seemes as easy as a down Coushon. Before the Arch the Ladyes use to have a laced toilet hung up on the top of the Arch and so to shelter their heads even to the water if they please. You Generally sit up to the Neck in water, this Cross bath is much the Coolest and is used mostly in y^e heate of summer; there are Gallery’s round y^e top that y^e Company that does not Bathe that day walkes in and lookes over into y^e bath on their acquaintance and company—there are such a number of Guides to each bath of women to waite on y^e ladyes, and of men to waite on the Gentlemen, and they keepe their due distance. There is a serjeant belonging to y^e baths that all the bathing tyme walkes in galleryes and takes notice order is observed and punishes y^e rude, and most people of fashion sends to him when they begin to bathe, then he takes particular Care of them and Complements you every morning w^{ch} deserves its reward at y^e end of the Season. When you would walk about y^e bath I use to have a woman guide or two to Lead me for the water is so strong it will quickly tumble you down, and then you have 2 of the men guides goes at a distance about y^e bath to Cleare y^e way. At y^e sides of the Arches are rings that you may hold by and so walke a little way, but y^e springs bubbles up so fast and so strong and are so hot up against ye bottoms of ones feete, Especially in that they Call y^e Kitching in the bath, which is a great Cross with seates in y^e middle and many hot springs riseth there. The Kings bath is very large, as large as the rest put together, in it is the hot pumpe that persons are pumpt at for Lameness or on their heads for palsyes. I saw one pumpt, they put on a broad brim’d hatt w^{th} the Crown Cut out so as y^e brims Cast off y^e water from y^e face; they are pumpt in y^e bath, one of y^e men Guides pumps—they have two pence I thinke for 100 pumps. The water is scallding hot out of the pump, the armes or Legs are more easyly pumped. The Ladyes goes into the bath with Garments made of a fine yellow canvas, which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parsons gown; the water fills it up so that its borne off that your shape is not seen, it does not cling close as other linning, which Lookes sadly in the poorer sort that go in their own linning. The Gentlemen have drawers and wastcoates of the same sort of canvas, this is the best linning, for the bath water will Change any other yellow. When you go out of the bath you go within a doore that leads to Steps which you ascend by degrees that are in the water, then the doore is shut which shutts down into the water a good way, so you are in a private place where you still ascend severall more steps and let your Canvass drop of by degrees into the water, which your women guides take off, and the meane tyme your maides flings a garment of flannell made like a Nightgown w^{th} great sleeves over your head, and y^e guides take y^e taile and so pulls it on you Just as you rise y^e steps, and y^e other garment drops off so you are wrapped up in y^e flannell and your nightgown on y^e top, and your slippers and so you are set in Chaire which is brought into y^e roome w^{ch} are called slips, and there are Chimney’s in them, you may have fires. These are in severall parts of the sides of y^e bath for y^e Conveniency of persons going in and out of y^e bath decently, and at y^e top of y^e staires stands a woman y^t Layes a woollen Cloth for you to set your bare foot, and also to give you attendance. Y^e Chaires you go in are a low seate and w^{th} frames round and over y^r head and all cover’d inside and out w^{th} red bayes and a Curtaine drawn before of y^e same w^{ch} makes it Close and warme; then a Couple of men w^{th} staves takes and Carryes you to your lodging and sets you at y^r bedside where you go to bed and lye and sweate some tyme as you please. Y^r own maides and y^e maides of the house gets your fire and waites on you till you rise to get out of your sweate. All the baths has the same attendance, the queens bath is bigger then y^e other three but not and neare so big as y^e Kings, which do run into each other and is only parted by a wall and at one place a great arch where they run into each other. Y^e queens bath is a degree hotter than y^e Cross bath and y^e Kings bath much hotter, these have all gallery’s round and the pump is in one of these galleryes at y^e Kings bath which y^e Company drinks of, its very hot and tastes like y^e water y^t boyles Eggs, has such a smell, but y^e nearer y^e pumpe you drinke it, y^e hotter and less offencive and more spiriteous. The baths are all Emptyed as soone as the Company goes out, which is about 10 or 11 of y^e Clock in the morning; then by sluces they empty at once y^e bath so it fills againe. I have seen all y^e springs bubble up as thicke out of y^e ground when the baths have been empty. Y^e bottom is gravell. So they will be full for y^e evening if Company would go in againe, if so they empty them againe at Night and they are filled against y^e morning and there will be such a white scum on the bath w^{ch} y^e guides goes and scimms off Cleane before any Company goes in; if they go in while this scum is on it gives them the bath mantle as they call it, makes them breake out into heate and pimples; y^e like will be on them if they go into y^e bath before they have purged, especially in y^e hotter bath. Y^e places for divertion about y^e bath is either y^e walkes in that they call y^e Kings Mead which is a pleasant green meaddow, where are walkes round and Cross it, no place for Coaches, and indeed there is little use of a Coach only to bring and Carry y^e Company from y^e bath for y^e wayes are not proper for Coaches.

Y^e town and all its accomodations is adapted to y^e batheing and drinking of the waters and to nothing else, the streetes are well pitched and Cleane kept and there are Chaires as in London to Carry y^e better sort of people in visits, or if sick or infirme and is only in the town, for its so Encompassed with high hills few care to take the aire on them. There is also pleasant walkes in y^e Cathedrall in the Cloysters and y^t leades to y^e discription of the Coronation in this place at y^e bath y^e 23^d April w^{ch} I recieved y^e relation off from a spectatrix it being y^e day queen ann was Crowned, and is never performed unless when a queen is the Chiefe as Queen Elizabeth &c., her Sister our late Majesty’s King William and Queen Mary because the queen was Joyn’d in the throne as principle, they representing y^e Amazons consisting of the young Maids. The Companyes of the town being assembled at M^r Mayors house begin to proceed with their officers masters and wardens and each Company with their flag—After marched in a troupe y^e Maides of the suburbs each with their proper officers of themselves, as Capt^n Ensigne and lieutenant w^{th} plummes of feathers. Just before y^e capt^n went her guard which was 6 young men drest in their holland shirts, with garters, and Ribons in their hatts, and their swords drawn in their hands, then the capt^n in her short wastecoate with gold lace, and their peticoates silke y^t were with furbellows ode above anoth^{er} with Ribons, w^{th} a trunchant in their hand w^{th} an inscription, God save queen Ann. Just behinde their Captaines went two Maides with two scepters gilt, next them two more y^t bore the crown between them w^{ch} was gilt, also their Ensigne. Their flag w^{ch} holds the same inscription God save queen Ann was guarded by two young Men drest as y^e others in their holland shirts: then the troupe followed in order in same dress as their officers with Crowns on their heads of Guilded Lauwrell, in Number about 100; next came y^e Citty Maides w^{th} their Majoress Generall with their plummes of feather with a wreath of Gilded Lawrell like a Crown, and on y^e top w^{th} all sorts of pretious stones y^e Jewellers shops Could supply them w^{th} and were guarded w^{th} young men as y^e others; behind y^e Majoress followed six all in white with a green Cross swathe with this inscription in white God save queen Ann each with their Trunchant in their hands as y^e former, and two carrying 2 scepters gilt, and after them two more y^e Crown between them, w^{ch} was very rich in pearles; then two more carryed y^e queens Armes between them, their dress was just as y^e first were only much richer and finer and all of them gather’d up y^e upper peticoate in little scallops just to shew their under peticoates w^{ch} were white. Y^e troupe of y^e amazans in order w^{th} their bows and arrows w^{th} Crowns of Gilded Lawrel, their officers had plumes of feathers and their Serjeants with their halberts, their number was also about 100.

Next after followed all y^e young men of y^e town form’d into a Company of Granadeers w^{th} their proper officers w^{ch} had laced hatts and plumes of feathers; each soldier had a red cap w^{th} Cyphers and a Crown gilt w^{th} gold and furbelowed with blew round their head; their hair was tyed back with scarlet ribon, they had scarlet garters and scarlet slings for their gunns; drest all in their holland shirts and white stockings and had a hanger by their sides. their number was about 30. Next followed four couple of Maurice dancers with their pranceing horses, in holland shirts with laced hatt riboned, and Cross swashes and garters w^{th} bells, w^{th} their two antiques drest in their formalityes, w^{th} hankershiefs in their hands danceing all y^e way.

Next walked y^e Clergy, then next followed M^r Major with two pages attending him, followed by the Corporation aldermen all in their scarlet gowns, and the common Councill in their gowns. Next followed in y^e reare all y^e marryed men formed into a Company of Artilery, their hatts Laced, with plumes of feathers all in their own Cloths:

Ye Soldiers y^e Same w^{th} Swords and gunns w^{th} two Blunderbusses; every Company both of men and women was attended by drums and all sort of musick both wind and stringed instruments.

Thus they repaired to y^e Cathedrall, Y^e granadeers salutes them Just as they enter the Abby with a volly of shott, and there they have a sermon and as they come out of the Cathedrall y^e Company of artillery salutes them againe with another volly, so in the same order they return to their Guild Hall where is a sumptuous feast w^{th} Musick and danceing w^{ch} Ends y^e solemnity w^{th} bonfires as is usual.

I now proceed to describe the rest of the town. there are green walkes very pleasant and in many places, and out of the Cathedrall you walk into y^e priory which has good walkes of rows of trees, which is pleasant—there are y^e deans prebends and doctors houses which stand in y^t green which is pleasant, by y^e Church called the Abby, w^{ch} is lofty and spacious and much Company walke there especially in wet weather. Y^e Quire is neat but nothing extraordinary—in that Kings mead there are severall little Cake-houses where you have fruit lulibubs and sumes Liquours to entertaine y^e Company that walke there.

The markets are very good here of all sorts of provision flesh and ffish especially when the season for y^e Company batheing and drinking lasts, great plenty and pretty reasonable. The Chargeableness of the bath is y^e Lodgings and fireing, the ffaggotts being very small, but they give you very good attendance there.

Another Journey I went with my mother into Oxfordshire, by Barkshire to Hungerford 16 mile, which is famous for Crawfish there being a good river and great quantityes of y^t fish and large.

This is in Barkshire, thence to Lamborn w^{ch} is a woody Country 7 miles, thence to ffarington 7 mile a pretty large place but lyes very watry, and so by Radcote 5 miles, w^{ch} is much y^e same deep Countryes much on Clay; by ffarington is a fine house of S^r George Pratt’s Called Coalsell. All y^e avenues to y^e house are fine walkes of rows of trees, y^e garden lyes in a great descent below y^e house of many steps and terresses and walkes one below another, a green walke with all sorts of Dwarfe trees, fruit trees with standing apricot and flower trees, abundance of garden roome and filled with all sorts of things improved for pleasure and use. The house is new built with stone, most of y^e offices are partly under ground—Kitchin, Pantry, buttlery and good Cellers and round a Court is all y^e other offices and out houses; this is all even with y^e back yards. The Entrance of y^e house is an ascent of severall steps into a hall so lofty the rooff is three storyes, reaches to y^e floore of y^e gallery—all the walls are Cutt in hollows where statues and Heads Carved ffinely are sett, Directly fore-right Enters a large Dineing roome or great parlour, which has a door thourough into the garden y^t gives a visto through y^e house: within y^t is a drawing room, on y^e other side another roome of the same size, and backward is a little parlour all with good ffurniture, tapistry, Damaske, &c. There runs up a p^r of back Staires at each end of the house quite to y^e top to the gallery which does make convenient all y^e Chambers. The great Staires goes out of the hall on each side, spacious and handsom staires runs up and meetes on the landing place, w^{ch} is a passage that runs on both sides to each end of the house, but is made private by two doores on each side: on the top of the staires you enter in y^e midle into a dineing roome, within that a Chamber on each side with two Closets to each bigg Enough for a little bed, with Chimney’s convenient for a servant and for dressing roomes, one of which has a doore also out into that passage and soe to the back staires; this is y^e same on y^e other end, and also two roomes on y^e other side, each end of y^e hall which continues to run up even with the second story, which are all good Chambers, and one more here because the great staires goe but to y^e first story: they are all well and Genteel’ly furnisht, damaskes Chamlet and wrought beds ffashionably made up. Over this runs a gallery all through the house, and on each side severall garret roomes for servants ffurnished very neate and Genteele, in y^e middle are staires y^t Lead up to the Cupilow or large Lanthorn in the middle of the leads. Y^e house being Leaded all over and the stone Chimney’s in severall rows Comes up in them on each side y^e Cupilow, it shewes exact and very uniform, as is y^e whole Building. This gives you a great prospect of gardens, grounds and woods that appertaine to y^e Seate, as well as a sight of the Country at a distance. There was few pictures in the house only over doores and Chimney’s; the hall was paved with black and whyte marble and had seates round the roome cut in arches on the walls. From thence Oxfordshire we enter over the Vale of the White horse w^{ch} takes its name from a Ridge of high hills on which is Cutt out the shape off a horse in perfect proportions in broad wayes, and is seen a great distance very plaine, the hills being on Chalke look’s white and the great valley in the bottom is term’d the Manger; it extends a vast way, a rich jnclosed Country, and we pass through some part of Glocestershire at Norton where is another seat of my Brother Say’s—thence to Broughton by Banbery which is 25 mile.

Broughton is an ancient Seate of y^e Lord viscount Say and Seale; its an old house moted round, and a parke and Gardens, but are much left to decay and ruine when my brother Came to it. He has two other houses in two or three Miles, Shettford a little neate house and gardens, and Newton, but that is mostly pulled down. From Broughton I went to see Edgehill where was the ffamous Battle ffought in Cromwell’s tyme—its 10 mile off, the Ridge of hills runns a great length and so high that the land beneath it appeares vastly distant, its a rich ground full of inclosures and lookes finely, tho’ fformidable to look down on it and turnes one’s head round—the wind allwayes blows w^{th} great violence there because of the Steepeness of y^e hills. The top is a flatt full of Barrows and hills that are markes of a Camp and battles.

About 2 mile from Broughton is a great old house much like Broughton; its S^r Robert Dashwoods—most of the great houses there about are old built. About three mile off at Adderbery w^{ch} is a pretty neate vilage, there are two or three good houses one of S^r Thomas Cobbs and Lady Rochesters looks neate and well with good gardens.

There is about 2 mile off the Lord Guilffords house Roxton which is a good house within a parke. You enter a large hall, on the left hand leads to a little parlour down to y^e Kitchins, the halfe pace att the upper end of the hall leads into dineing roome, drawing roome, and a large staire-case with good pictures; there you enter another large dineing roome with great Compass windows and fine Pictures of the family. Within is a drawing roome and Chambers and Closets well proportioned, little or no ffurniture was up, only in y^e worst roomes; in one Closet att each doore was Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth’s pictures to the ffoote in bibb and apron very pretty: in one roome was the Lord North and Ladyes picture, which was Lord Chiefe Justice and their sonnes picture in the middle, all at length,—many good Pictures in most roomes. There was a part new built all the new ffashion way which was designed for the present Lord Gilford and Lady. The Gardens are very good, the outhouses and Stables handsome.