Chapter IV: Part 4

From thence we went over to Haragate w^{ch} is just by the Spaw, two mile further over a Common that belongs to Knarsborough; its all marshy and wett and here in the Compass of 2 miles is 4 very different springs of water; there is the Sulpher or Stincking spaw, not Improperly term’d for the Smell being so very strong and offensive that I could not force my horse Near the Well; there are two Wells together with basons in them that the Spring rises up in, which is ffurr’d with a White Scumm which rises out of the water, if you keep it in a Cup but a few hours it will have such a white Scumm on it, not withstanding it rises out of y^e Spring very Cleare and so being a quick Spring itt Soone purges it Self Cleare againe, it Comes from Brimstone mines, for the taste and smell is much of Sulpher, tho’ it has an additionall offenciveness Like Carrion. The Ground is Bitumus or the Like that it runns over, it has a quality of Changing Silver into y^e Coull^r of Copper and that in a few minutes, much quicker than the Baths in the West County in Somersetshire. Its a quick purger and very good for all Scurbutick humours, some persons drink a quart or two, I dranke a quart in a Morning for two dayes and hold them to be a good Sort of Purge if you Can hold y^r breath so as to drinke them down. Within a quarter of a mile is the sweete spaw or Chalibiet, a Spring which rises off Iron and steele like Astrup or Tunbridge and Like the German Spaw. This is a quick Spring and the Well made up with a bason, and a Cover of Stone over it Like an arch; this opperates as all jron springs does, tho I Could not find them so strong or spiriteous as those at Tunbridge. One thing I observ’d of the Stinking spaw tho’ its taste and opperation was like the Somersetshire bathes, yet this was not warme in the Least as those Bathes are. Just Between these two spaws is a fine Cleare and sweete Spring of Comon water very good to wash Eyes and pleasant to Drinke. The ffourth Spring w^{ch} is but two mile off these is of a petrifying quality turnes all things into stone. It rises in a banck on y^e top of a hill and so runns along in a little Channell about a foote over and all the Ground it runns over is moorish and full of holes with water Standing in it, w^{ch} stincks just like the Sulpher Spaw and will turn Silver to the Coullour of Copper as y^t does. Notwithstanding this Clear spring runns through it with a Swift Current to the brow of y^e hill and then it spreads it Self all round y^e hill w^{ch} is a Rock, and so runns down all over the brow of y^e hill Continually, like a Nasty shower of Small and Great Raine, and so it meetes in y^e bottom and runns all into the river Knarsborough, and this water as it runns—where it Lyes in the hollows of y^e Rock does turn moss and wood into Stone or rather Crusts or Candys wood. I saw some w^{ch} had a perfect Shell of stone about it, but they tell me it does in tyme penetrate through the Wood. I took Moss myself from thence which is all Crisp’d and perfect Stone; all the Grass Straws or any thing that the water falls upon it does Convert to hardness like Stone. Y^e Whole rock is Continually dropping with water besides y^e Showering from the top w^{ch} ever runns and this is Called the dropping well. There is an arbour and y^e Company used to Come and Eat a Supper there in any Evening to have the pleaseing prospect and the murmuring Shower to Divert their Eare; in a good Space of tyme it will harden Ribon Like Stone or any thing Else.

Ffrom Harragate to Cockgrave is 6 mile where is a Spring of exceeding Cold Water Called S^t Mongers Well; the Story is of a Child y^t was Laid out in y^e Cold for the parishes Care and when the Church-Wardens found it they took Care of it—a new born Infant—and when it was baptised they gave it the Name of “Amongst” because they said the Child must be kept among them, and as the papist sayes he was an Ingenious Child and so attained Learning and was a very religious man and used this spring to wash himself; after sometymes that he had gotten prefferrment and so grew Rich he walled the Spring about and did many Cures on diseased bodies by batheing in it, w^{ch} Caused after his death people to frequent the Well w^{ch} was an Inconveniency to y^e Owners of y^e ground, and so they forbad people Coming and Stopped up y^e Well; and the Story sayes on that severall judgments Came on the owners of y^e Ground and y^e Spring broke up all about his Ground w^{ch} forced him to open it againe and render it usefull to all that would Come to Washe in it—thus farre of y^e fable.

Now the Spring is in use and a high wall round it, Y^e Well is about 4 or 5 Yards square and round the brimm is a walke of Broad stone round. There are 4 or 5 Steps down to the bottom, it is no deeper at Some places then a Little above y^e Waste, not up to y^e Shoulders of a woman, and you may kneel on a flatt Stone and it Comes to y^r Chin—this the papists made use of very much. At one Corner the Springs rise they are very quick and there is a Sluce that it Continually runns off so as to keep just at the same depth, and it runns off so fast and y^e Springs supply so fast that it Clears the Well presently after any body has been in. I allwayes Chose to be just where y^e springs rise that is much the Coldest and it throws off anything in the Well to y^e Sluce. Setting aside y^e papists ffancyes of it I cannot but think it is a very good Spring being remarkably Cold and just at y^e head of y^e Spring, so its ffresh w^{ch} must needs be very strengthning; it Shutts up the pores of y^e body immeadiately, so fortifyes from Cold, you Cannot bear ye Coldness of it above 2 or 3 minutes and then you Come out and walke round y^e pavement and then in againe, and so 3 or 4 or 6 or 7 as many tymes as you please. You go in and out in Linnen Garm^{ts}, some go in fflannell; I used my bath Garm^{ts} and so pulled them off and put on flannell when I Came out to go into the bed which is best; but some Came at a distance—so did I and did not go into bed—but some will keep on their wet Garments and let them drye to them and say its more beneficial, but I did not venture it. I dipp’d my head quite over every tyme I went in and found it Eased a Great pain I used to have in my head, and I was not so apt to Catch Cold so much as before w^{ch} I imputed to the Exceeding Coldness of y^e Spring that shutts up the pores of the body. Its thought it runns off of some very Cold spring and from Clay. Some of y^e papists I saw there had so much Zeale as to Continue a quarter of an hour on their knees at their prayers in y^e Well, but none else Could well endure it so long at a tyme, I went in 7 Severall seasons and 7 tymes Every Season and would have gone in oftener Could we have Staid longer. We went back to Harragat 6 mile and then we went to Burrough Bridge 8 mile—a famous place for Salmon, but then we Could not meete with any, but we had a very Large Codfish there above a yard long and more than halfe a yard in Compass very fresh and good and Cost but 8 pence. I saw as big a one bought then for 6 pence and six Crabbs as big as my two hands, the Least was bigger than one of my fists, all cost but 3 pence. Thence to Harragate 8 mile, then we went and Laid at Knarsburoughe 2 mile, w^{ch} was nearer to S^t Mungers Well, for we went it twice from Harragate and back w^{ch} was 12 mile more and found it too farre to go in an afternoon—from Knarsburough it was but 4 mile; we went it four tymes and back w^{ch} was 16 miles and we went afterwards to Harraget 3 tymes and back 12 mile more. From Knarsborough we went to Rippon a pretty Little market town mostly built of Stone, 8 mile, a Large Market place with a high Cross of severall Stepps; we were there the Market day where provisions are very plentifull and Cheape.

In the Market was sold then 2 good Shoulders of veal, they were not very fatt nor so large as our meate in London but good meate, one for 5^d the other for 6^d, and a good quarter of Lamb for 9^d or 10^d, and its usual to buy a very good Shoulder of Veale for 9 pence, and a quarter of Beefe for 4 shillings; Indeed it is not large ox Beef but good Middling Beasts: and Craw ffish 2^d a Doz^n—so we bought them.

Notwithstanding this plenty some of y^e Inns are very dear to Strangers that they Can impose on. The town Stands on a hill and there is a good large Stone built Church well Carved, they Call it a minster. There is very fine painting over the alter, it Looks so natural just like Real Crimson satten with gold ffringe like hangings, and Severall rows of Pillars in jsles on Either side w^{ch} looks very naturall. There are two good Bridges to the town, one was a rebuilding, pretty large with Severall arches Called Hewet bridge—its often out of repaire by reason of the force of y^e water that Swells after great raines, yet I see they made works of wood on purpose to breake the violence of y^e Streame and y^e Middle arche is very Large and high.

There are Severall good houses about y^e town and Severall Gentlemens Seates about a mile or two distance: 2 mile off is a fine place of S^r Edw^d Blackets, it looks finely in y^e approach in the Midst of a good parke, and a River runns just by it, it stands in the middle and has two Large Gardens on Each side. You Enter one through a Large Iron Barr-gate painted Green and gold tops and Carv’d in Severall places, this is ffine Gravel walks between grass plotts 4 Square, with 5 brass Statues Great and Small in Each square, and full of borders of flowers and Green banks with flower potts. On y^e other side of y^e house is just such a Garden, only the walkes are all grass rowl’d and the Squares are full of dwarfe trees, both ffruites and green, set Cross wayes w^{ch} Lookes very finely. There is a flower Garden behind y^e house; in it and beyond it a Landry Close, with frames for drying of Cloths, walled in. There are good Stables and Coach house and all the offices are very Convenient—very good Cellars all arch’d, and there I dranke small beer four years old not too Stale, very Clear good Beer well brew’d. Their kitching, pastry and pantry &c all very Convenient; in y^e pantry hangs a picture of y^e dimentions of a large ox y^t was fed in these grounds w^{th} y^e accò of its weight. Y^e Quarters was 106 Stone 1^£ and y^e hide was 12 stone and 8 pound, the tallow was 19 stone, the head 4 stone, y^e Legs and feate weigh’d 3 stone 11^£. This Gentleman breeds and feeds much Cattle in his grounds and has one of y^e largest Beeves in England.

his house is built with bricke and Coyn’d w^{th} stone w^{th} a flatt Roofe Leaded, w^{th} railes and Barristers, and a large Cupilow in y^e middle—you may see a Greate way round y^e Country. Y^e ffront Entrance is 3 gates of Iron Barres and spikes, painted blew with gold tops, and brick work between y^e gates and pillars with stone tops Carv’d Like flower potts; y^e pillars all Coyn’d with Stone. Y^e Middle gate is made large in a Compass like a halfe Moone.

There are four more spaces in the wall open with Iron barres and spikes, 2 of w^{ch} are in each side into y^e Gardens, and answers two Like them on the other side of the Gardens. The two other are Less and are at y^e End of a terrass walk just along y^e Entrance w^{ch} you ascend by Steps from the Middle gate; they are all adorned with brick pillars Coyn’d w^{th} stone and Stone heads—these are all painted blew and gold tipps. From the Terrass you have a Court y^t Leads into y^e middle of y^e house into a large hall; over y^e doore at y^e Entrance is a fine Carving of stone w^{th} Leaves and flowers with fine stone pillars, and y^e Armes Cutt finely, there is a fine dyal and Clock above all. The hall you Enter is of a very good size and height. 2 dineing roomes and drawing roomes, one for the Summer with a marble floore, 6 or 7 Chambers off a good size and lofty, so y^e most of y^e beds were two foote too low w^{ch} was pitty they being good beds, one was Crimson ffigured velvet, 2 damaske beds, the rest moehaire and Cambet. Y^e roomes were mostly wanscoated and painted. Y^e best roome was painted just like marble—few roomes were hung. The ffurniture was very neately kept and so was the whole house, the roofe of y^e Staires was finely painted, there was Severall pictures but not Set up the house being in mourning for his Lady, and her mother the Lady Yorke, w^{ch} dyed in a month or two of Each other. She left S^r Edward 10 Children, he has a great state and will have the 2000 P ^{an} fall to him that is Lady Mary Ffenwichs anuity. he was a merchants son at Bristol. The house is served with water by pipes into a Cistern into y^e Garden, Cellars and all offices. This was the ffinest house I saw in Yorkshire. We returned to Knarsborough 9 mile and from thence we went to York againe 12 mile, this was y^e worst Rideing in Yorkshire, then we passed thro’ York town by another gate towards Hull, and y^t Streete was Larger and better buildings than what I saw before in Yorke, and here we pass over the muddy River, Called the muddy Ffosse. We passed over the river Derwent that runns through the middle of Derbyshire to Born Bridge 9 mile, Whitten 6 miles a Little neate Thatch’d town of a mile long where we Lay, and passed by Burlington Lord Cliffords house that stood in a bottom amongst trees and Look’d well, and they Say is well painted and good ffurniture, but I saw not y^e Inside, only pass’d by it. There we had a very Large Salmon that Cost and y^e sauce but 18^d, it was very ffresh and good and above 3 quarters of a yard long. Thence to Beverly 9 miles w^{ch} is a very fine town for its size, its prefferable to any town I saw but Nottingham. There are 3 or 4 Large Streetes well pitch’d bigger than any in York, the other Lesser Streets about y^e town being Equal with them. The Market Cross is Large, there are 3 markets, one for beasts another for Corne and another for ffish, all Large, the town is Serv’d with Water by wells walled up round or rather in a Square, above halfe ones length, and by a pully and weight letts down or draws up the Buckat w^{ch} is Chained to y^e beame of y^e pully. There are many of these wells in all the streetes it seemes its in Imitation of Holland, they being supply’d with water soe. The buildings are new and pretty Lofty, the Minster has been a ffine building all stone, Carv’d on the outside w^{th} ffigures and Images, and more than 100 pedastalls that remaine where Statues has stood of angels and the like. The wood worke in the quire is very ffine. Just by the Comunion table is the Sanctuary or place of Refuge where Criminalls flee for Safety—its a Seate of Stone work Cut all in one.

Earle of Northumberland’s and Lady’s Monuments—his is very plaine, only a marble Stone raised up with Stone about 2 yards high; his Name, by means of his great atchievments in the Barrons warre, great Percy Earle of Northumberland, is monument Enough to posterity. His tombe was a little fallen in and a hole So bigg as many put their hands in and touch’d the body w^{ch} was much of it Entire of y^e bonds; the Skull was whole and the teeth firme, tho’ of so many yeares standing. The Countess’s monument is very fine, its made of y^e same free stone y^e Church is built w^{th}, but so finely polished y^t it looks like Marble, and Carv’d w^{th} figures, birds leaves, flowers, beasts and all sorts of things and y^e armes is Cutt out in severall places all about it; the top of the arch is one Entire Stone as much as one Can Grasp and its all finely Carv’d w^{th} all sorts of Curiosityes and adorn’d with Gilding and painting.

There are 4 good monuments all of marble of y^e Wharton ffamily. In the middle of y^e Church is y^e tomb of S^t John with a brass Inscription on y^e pavement, and at a little distance they shew’d us the wearing of y^e pavement with y^e obeisance of his votarys, this being S^t John of Beverly. At the End of y^e Church is y^e ffont, y^e upper part of it, that is the bason was of one Entire marble of a Darke Coullour. Y^e Cover was Carv’d Exactly and of a Piramidy fform and very high. There is another Church Called S^t Mary’s y^t is very large and good I thought that had been the Minster at first Entrance of y^e town; there is the prayers Everyday and its used on all accounts and so the other is neglected. This has a quire in which they were preaching w^n we were there. There is a very good free schoole for boys, they say y^e best in England for Learning and Care w^{ch} makes it fill’d with Gentlemens Sons besides the free Schollars from all parts—provision being very Cheape here. I was offered a large Codffish for a shilling and good Pearch very Cheape, we had Crabbs bigger than my two hands pence apiece w^{ch} would have Cost 6 pence if not a shilling in London and they were very sweete. From thence we went to Hull 6 mile all upon a Caussey secured w^{th} two little rivers running on Each Side w^{ch} is used to flow over their grounds it being a Great fflatt severall miles, and the meadows are Cloth’d w^{th} good Grass by y^t means. The river Hull runns from Beverly at the town End, just by y^e Minster you Cross it, this runns to Hull, y^e town is properly Called so from that River, but its name is Kingston on y^e Hull, being built on y^t River w^{ch} runns into y^e Humber w^{ch} is a noble River—y^e mouth of it opens just ag^{st} this town. The buildings of Hull are very neate good streets, its a good tradeing town by means of this great River Humber y^t Ebbs and flows Like the Sea, and is 3 or 4 mile over at y^e Least; it runns 20 mile hence into y^e Sea and takes in all y^e great Rivers—y^e Trent Ouise, Aire, Don, y^e Derwent and y^e Hull, and Carries much water that a man of warre of all sorts Can Ride. I was on board a new man of warre y^t belonged to the town and Called y^e Kingston, it was but small, well Compact for provision and was built fit for swift saileing. The Humber is very salt, allwayes it rowles and tosses just like y^e Sea, only y^e soile being Clay turnes y^e Water and waves yellow and soe it differs from y^e Sea in Coullour, not Else—its a hazardous water by reason of many shoares y^e tides meete. I was on it a pretty way and it seemes more turbulent than y^e Thames at Gravesend.

We enter y^e town of Hull from y^e Southward over two drawbridges and gates, there is the Same Entrance in another part of y^e town by 2 gates and 2 drawbridges from Holderness, and so y^e ditches are round y^e town to y^e Landward, and they Can by them floate y^e grounds for 3 mile round w^{ch} is a good ffortification. The Garrison and plattforme w^{ch} is the ffortification to y^e Sea is in a very uniforme ffigure and were it ffinished is thought it would be the ffinest ffortification that Could be seen—its wall’d and pallisadoed. I walked round it, and viewed it and when I was on y^e water, it seemes to runn a great Length and would require many Soldiers to deffend y^e halfe moons and workes. In the town there is an hospitall y^{ts} Called y^e Trinity house, for Seamens widdows, 30 is their Completm^t, their allowance 16^d p^r weeke and ffewell, they have a little Chapple to it for prayers; over this building is a large roome for Cordage and sailes, where they make them and keep their Stores. In the middle of this roome there hangs a Canoe to y^e Roofe of y^e Roome just bigg Enough for one man to sit in, and the Effigie of a man that was taken w^{th} it, all his Cloths Cap and a Large bag behind him where in his ffish and provision were, these were all made of y^e skin of ffishes and were y^e same w^{ch} he wore when taken, y^e forme of his face is only added and just resemble y^e wild man that they took, for so the Inscription Calls him, or y^e bonny boate man; he was taken by Cap^{tn} Baker and there are his oars and spear y^t was with him—this is all written on y^e boat to perpetuate y^e memory of it; he would not speak any Language or word to them y^t took him nor would he Eate, so in a few dayes died. There is a good large Church in Hull. You Enter a large jsle just in the Middle that runns quite aCross through the Church, and divides the body of the Church w^{th} y^e pulpet and pews on one Side with a partition of wood Carv’d, and on the other side was such another partition for y^e Chancell, and I observ’d there their alter stood tablewise for y^e Comunion just in the middle of y^e Chancell, as it was in the primitive tymes before Popery Came in. There was Severall Little monuments of marble in y^e walls. Ffrom thence to Beverly againe 6 mile w^{ch} is all a flatt, thence to Brance Burton 8 mile, all likewise on a Levell w^{ch} they Call Loughs. Here we Could get no accomodation at a Publick house, it being a Sad poore thatch’d place and only 2 or 3 Sorry Alehouses, no lodgings but at y^e hall house as it was Called Where liv’d a Quaker w^{ch} were Sufficient people. The rooms were good old rooms being y^e Lord of the mannours house—these were but tennants—but did Entertain us kindly, made two good beds for us and also for our Servants, and good bread and Cheese, bacon and Eggs. Thence we went to Agnes-Burton 7 mile, the miles are long and so they are in most part of these Northern County’s. This is the East Rideing of Yorkshire and we saw y^e Session house at Beverly for this Rideing.

Agnes Burton is a Seate of S^r Griffith Boyntons, Grandson to S^r ffrancis w^{ch} married my father’s Sister one of William Lord Viscount Say and Seales Daughters.

It looks finely In the approach. A mile or two off we pass by another of his houses w^{ch} is newer built and very good Gardens, Called Barmstone,—we Eate some of y^e good ffruite. The house is all built with Bricks and so good Bricke that at 100 years standing no one Brick is faulty; it stands on a pretty ascent. We Enter under a Gate-house built w^{th} 4 large towers into a Court which is large, in y^e middle is a Bowling green palisado’d round, and y^e Coaches runns round it to the Entrance w^{ch} is by 10 stepps up to a Tarress, and thence a pav’d walke to y^e house. Cut box and ffilleroy and Lawrell about y^e Court. The ffront Looks very uniform with severall round buildings on each side answerring Each other with Compass windows, and y^e middle is a Round building, and y^e door Enters in in y^e side of y^t tower w^{ch} was y^e old fashion in Building and is like my brother Say’s house at Broughton.

Out of an Entry you Come into a very Lofty good hall, y^e Screen at the Lower End (w^{ch} divides it from y^e Entry) is ffinely Carv’d, the parlour and drawing roome are well proportion’d roomes, and y^e wanscoate is all well Carv’d, y^e moldings of y^e doores and Chimneys are finely Carv’d w^{th} Staggs and all sorts of beasts, woods and some leaves and flowers and birds and angells &c. There is beyond this a very good little parlour w^{th} plaine wanscoate painted in veines like marble, dark and white Streakes. There is a very good dineing roome over this and 5 very good Chambers some well ffurnished, all very neate and Convenient w^{th} Closetts to their own apartments and Anty roomes. There is much of y^e Same ffine Carving in the dineing roome, the Chambers are all wanscoated and Carv’d, there is a noble gallery over all, with large windows on y^e sides and at Each End painted very Curiously, out of w^{ch} you view the whole Country round and discover the shipps under saile though at a good distance. The Gardens are large and are Capable of being made very ffine—they now remaine in the old ffashion. There is gravell walks and grass and Close walks, there is one walke all y^e Length of the Garden Called the Crooked walke, of grass well Cutt and rowled, it is indented in and out in Corners, and so is the wall w^{ch} makes you thinke you are at y^e End off the walke Severall tymes before you are, by means of y^e Codling hedge that is on the other side. This Leads you to a summer house that also opens to a large gravell walke that runns the breadth of y^e Garden to the house ward. From Agnes Burton we went to Scarborough 14 mile. We pass’d from this flatt to Boynton, thence ascended the wouls or high hills so Called in this County, and it prov’d misty w^{ch} made our observations to be fixed on it that the mist was thicker and more held in those high wouls as raine or mist is in thick trees, so y^e mist was much more there than in y^e plaine, so thick in some you Could not see the top. We descended these high wouls by a steep and hazardous precipice on one Side and y^e way narrow.

Scarbrough is a very pretty Sea-port town built on the Side of a high hill. The Church Stands in the most Eminent place above all y^e town and at Least 20 Steps you ascend up into y^e Churchyard. The ruines of a Large Castle remaines, the Walls in Compass Severall acres of ground y^t feeds many beasts and milch Cows. Y^e hill on w^{ch} the Castle Stands is very Steep and Severall trenches over one another, round the walls all one Side of the Castle Stands out to the sea shore a good Length. Its open to the Main ocean and to secure the harbour there is a mole or halfe moone, two, one within y^e other something resembling the Cobb at Lime in Sommersetshire. The sea when the tide is in is Close up to the town and the bottom of a Ridge of hills that runns from the town 5 or 6 mile in a Compass. When its Ebb water it Leaves y^e shore 400 yards all a flatt, and such good sand, as you presently walke on it without Sinking, y^e Sand is so smooth and firme, and so you may walke 5 or 6 mile on the Sand round by y^e ffoote of this Ridge of hills, w^{ch} is the poynt by w^{ch} all the Shipps pass that go to NewCastle or that way. I see 70 saile of shipps pass the point and so Come onward at some Distance off from the Castle, Supposed to be Colliers and their Convoys. On this Sand by the Sea shore is y^e Spaw well w^{ch} people frequent, and all the diversion is y^e walking on this sand twice a day at y^e Ebb of the tide and till its high tide and then they drink. Its something from an Iron or Steele minerall but by means of the tide flowing on it Every tyme. Especially spring tydes it Covers y^e well quite—and allwayes flowes up just to it, w^{ch} Leaves a brackish and saltness w^{ch} makes it purge pretty much, but they say y^e Spring is so quick that it soone Casts off y^e Sea water; but in my opinion is y^t the whole spring and all the Springs that Bubble up all over the sands must be agreable and of the sort of water the sea is, being so just on the sea side and so neare must be Influenc’d by y^e salt water. It seems to be a pretty turbulent Sea, I was on it in a little boate but found it very rough even just in y^e harbour, I suppose the Cause may be from standing so open to y^e Maine. The town has abundance of Quakers in it, most of their best Lodgings were In quakers hands, they Entertain all people, soe in Private houses in the town by way of ordinary, so much a Meale and their Ale. Every one finds themselves—there are a few Inns for horses only. I was at a quakers meeteing in the town where 4 men and 2 women spoke one, after another had done, but it seem’d such a Confusion and so inCoherent that it very much moved my Compassion and pitty to see their delusion and Ignorance and no less Excited my thankfullness for the Grace of God that upheld others from such Errors. I observ’d their prayers were all made on the first person and single, though before the body of people; it seems they allow not of ones being the mouth of y^e Rest in prayer to God tho’ it be in the publick meetings. In this town we had good accomodations and on very Reasonable terms. They drye a large ffish Like Codlings and salt them and when you dress them, water them; then they string them on wire, and so Rost them before the fire and make good sauce for them, they Eate very well and as tender as a fresh Codling and very sweete iff they were well cured when they were first taken, Else they will taste stronge.

Thence we went to Maulton 14 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large town built of Stone but poor; there is a large market place and severall great houses of gentlemens round the town. There was one M^r Paumes that marry’d a relation of mine Lord Ewers Coeheiress who is landlady of almost all y^e town. She has a pretty house in the place. There is the ruins of a very great house w^{ch} belonged y^e family but they not agreeing about it Caused y^e defaceing of it. She now makes use of y^e roomes off y^e outbuildings and gate house for weaving and Linning Cloth, haveing set up a manuffactory for Linnen w^{ch} does Employ many poor people. She supply’d me w^{th} very good beer, for y^e Inn had not the best. Thence to York 14 miles, and so to Tadcaster 8 mile, thence to Aberfford 4 miles all on a heavy bottom, their miles are long and I observe the ordinary people both in these parts of Yorkshire and in the northern parts Can scarce tell you how farre it is to the next place unless it be in the great towns, and there in their publick houses, and they tell you its very good yate Instead of Saying it is good way, and they Call their gates yates, and do not Esteem it uphill unless so steep as a house or precipice; they say its good levell gate all along when it maybe there are Severall great hills to pass, but this account did Encrease on us the nearer we Came to Darbyshire, but in Generall they Live much at home and scarce Ever go 2 or 10 mile from thence Especially the women, so may be term’d good housekeepers. To Aberford we Came by severall pretty Seates in view, we Lay at an acquaintances house M^{rs} Hickeringalls: thence we went to Castleton Bridge 5 mile, where was a glass house; we saw them blowing white glass and neale it in a large oven by the heate of y^e ffurnace. All the Country is full of Coale and the pitts are so thick in y^e roade that it is hazardous to travell for strangers.

Thence to Pomffret 3 miles w^{ch} Looks very finely in the approach. Its built on a hill all of stone, its a very neate building and y^e streets well pitch’d and broad, the houses well built and looks more stately than any in York, only its not the tenth part so bigg, its a neate little town as I have seen. there are severall very good houses in it, one Doct^r Burgess has built a very good house w^{ch} is Call’d his ffolly. There is a noble house at the Entrance of the town of y^e Lady Grace Perpoynt, and good Parke Gardens and walks and a great revenue belonging to it,—the Daughter of the Marquis of Dorchesters. There is a ffine Church in the town and as spacious a market place as is at Salisbury or as you shall see any where, and the building so Even and uniforme as well as Lofty that it appears very magnificent—its a Major town. We were in the Chief Inn the Sunn, tho’ there are many good Inns, but this was a very good Genteel jnn and it happen’d the Landlord was then Major of y^e town.

Provisions are very Easy here, we had 2 or 3 pound of Codffish for a small matter and it was a Large dish. Y^e town is full of Great Gardens walled in all round on y^e outside of the town, on the Edge of y^e hill so the Gardens runns down a great way, you descend with them by severall stepps. Its a fruitfull place, fine flowers and trees with all sorts of fruite, but that w^{ch} is mostly jntended is the Encreasing of Liquorish w^{ch} y^e Gardens are all filled with, and any body that has a Little ground improves it for the produce of Liquorish of w^{ch} there is vast quantetyes, and it returns severall 100 pounds yearly to the towns. The Leafe is not much unlike a Rose Leafe but some w^t narrower and Longer, the Coullour is something a Yellower Green, Else the branches grow Like it w^{th} double Leaves on a Stalke and severall all down y^e Stalke, somewhat in the manner of Caliceily or Solomons Seale and much of that smoothness of Leafe. Thence to Hemsworth 4 mile where we Could meet w^{th} no Lodging, only Little ale houses to give one a pot of beere, and so we went 2 mile ffarther but found it y^e same and it being too farre to reach Rotheram we made use of ye hospitallity of a Clergyman one M^r Fferrer w^{ch} was a very Genteele man and gave us a Civil Entertainm^t and good beds—he has a very good house and Genteely ffitted good Hall and parlour, and the Garden very neate. Its a very ffruitfull Country w^{ch} Encourages jndustry and there is plenty of Stone Like free Stone w^{ch} makes ffine houses and walls. Thence to Rotheram 12 miles, its most in a deep Clay ground and now the wayes are more difficult and narrow. Rotheram is a good market town well built all of stone. The Church stands high in y^e middle of the town and Looks finely, its all Stone and Carv’d very well all the out side. Thence to Ackington 8 mile, a very Little place its 3 mile from Shellton town, but that was thought out of our way, so we Lay here in a poor Sorry Inn. There was one good bed for us Gentlewomen. Its a pretty Long Parish and through it runns a Water which Came down a great banck at the End of y^e town like a precipice with such violence y^t it makes a great noise, and looks Extreamely Cleare in the Streame that gushes out and runns along: it runns on off a deep yellow Coullour, they say it runns off of a poisonous mine or Soile and from Coale pitts; they permit none to taste it for I sent for a Cup of it and y^e people in y^e Streete Call’d out to forbid y^e tasteing it, and it will beare no Soape so its useless. Here we Entred Darbyshire and went to Chesterffield 6 mile, and Came by y^e Coale mines where they were digging. They make their mines at y^e Entrance Like a Well and so till they Come to y^e Coale, then they digg all the Ground about where there is Coale and set pillars to support it, and so bring it to y^e well where by a basket Like a hand barrow by Cords they pull it up—so they Let down and up the miners with a Cord. Chesterffield Looks Low when you approach it from the Adjacent hill w^{ch} you descend, but then you ascend another to it. The Coale pitts and quaraes of stone are all about, Even just at y^e town End, and in the town its all built of stone. Y^e Church stands in a place of Eminency, the town Looks well, the Streets good, y^e Market very Large. It was Satturday w^{ch} is their market day and there was a great Market Like some little ffaire, a great deale of Corne and all sorts of ware and ffowles there. I bought my self 2 very good ffatt white (pullings as they Call them) pullets for 6 pence both, and I am sure they were as Large and as good as would have Cost 18 pence if not 2 shill^s a piece in London—so said all my Company. In this town is y^e best ale in the Kingdom Generally Esteem’d. All Derbyshire is full of Steep hills and nothing but the peakes of hills as thick one by another is seen in most of y^e County w^{ch} are very steepe, w^{ch} makes travelling tedious and y^e miles Long. You see neither hedge nor tree but only Low drye stone walls round some ground Else its only hills and Dales as thick as you Can Imagine, but tho’ the Surface of y^e Earth Looks barren yet those hills are impregnated w^{th} Rich marble stone metals, Iron and Copper and Coale mines in their bowells, from whence we may see the wisdom and benignitye of o^{er} greate Creator to make up the Defficiency of a place by an Equivolent, and also the diversity of the Creation w^{ch} Encreaseth its Beauty. We go from Chesterffield to y^e Duke of Devonshires house and ascend a high hill at Least two or three miles Long, we pass’d by a Cavity in one great Banck or Rock Called Stonidge Hall all stone of about 12 yards long and about 4 or 5 broad, its all Rock like an arch on y^e Roofe but its not ffenc’d so but y^e beasts trample and ffowle it you Can scarce go into it. The same long steep hill we had to descend w^{ch} Comes to Chattsworth ten mile. The Duke’s house Lyes just at y^e foote of this steepe hill w^{ch} is like a precipice just at y^e Last, notwithstanding the Dukes house stands on a little riseing ground from y^e River Derwent w^{ch} runns all along y^e front of y^e house, and by a Little fall made in y^e water w^{ch} makes a pretty Murmurring noise. Before y^e gate there is a Large parke and Severall ffine Gardens one w^{th} out another w^{th} Gravell walkes and Squairs of Grass w^{th} stone statues in them, and in y^e middle of Each Garden is a Large ffountaine full of Images, sea gods and Dolphins and sea horses w^{ch} are full of pipes w^{ch} spout out water in the bason and spouts all about the Gardens. 3 gardens just round the house. Out of two of y^e Gardens you ascend by Severall Stepps into other Gardens w^{ch} some have Gravell walks and squares Like y^e other w^{th} Statues and Images in the bason. There is one bason in the Middle of one Garden thats very Large and by sluces besides the Images Severall pipes plays out y^e water—about 30 Large and small pipes altogether, some fflush it up that it ffrothes Like snow. There is one Garden full of stone and brass statues. So the Gardens Lyes one above another w^{ch} makes the prospect very fine. Above these gardens is an ascent of 5 or 6 stepps up to green walk and groves of firrs and a wilderness and Close arbours and shady walks. On Each End of one Walke stands two piramidies full of pipes spouting water that runns down one of them—runns on brass hollow work w^{ch} looks like rocks and hollow stones.

Y^e other is all fflatts, stands one above another like Salvers so the water rebounds one from another 5 or 6 one above the Other. There is another green walke and about y^e Middle of it by y^e Grove stands a fine Willow tree, the Leaves, Barke and all looks very naturall, y^e roote is full of rubbish or great stones to appearance and all on a Sudden by turning a sluce it raines from Each Leafe and from the branches like a shower, it being made of Brass and pipes to Each Leafe, but in appearance is Exactly like any Willow. Beyond this is a bason in w^{ch} are y^e branches of two Artichock Leaves w^{ch} weeps at y^e End of Each Leafe into the bason w^{ch} is placed at y^e foote of Lead steps 30 in number. The Lowest step is very deep, and between Every 4 stepps is a half pace all made of Lead and are broad on Each side. On a little banck stands blew balls 10 on a side, and between Each ball are 4 pipes w^{ch} by a sluce spouts out water aCross y^e stepps to Each other like an arbour or arch. While you are thus amused suddenly there runs down a torrent of water out of 2 pitchers in y^e hands of two Large nimphs Cut in stone that Lyes in the upper step w^{ch} makes a pleaseing prospect. This is designed to be Enlarged and Steps made up to y^e top of y^e hill w^{ch} is a vast ascent, but ffrom y^e top of it now they are Supply’d w^{th} water for all their pipes so it will be the Easyer to have such a fall of water Even from y^e top w^{ch} will add to the Curiositye. The house is built all of Stone y^t is dugg out of the hills, its like free stone—a flatt Roofe w^{th} Barristers and flower potts. In the ffront is 7 large windows, the glass is diamond Cutt and all off large Looking glass, y^e panes bigg 4 in a breadth 7 in height, to the Garden ward was 12 windows of y^e same glass 4 panes broad 8 long, y^e Lowest windows are made w^{th} Grates before them and are for birds—an Averye—and so looking glass behind. Y^e stepps out of y^e Garden are on Either side 20 steps and Iron barrs painted blew and tipt w^{th} gold. Y^e steps meete on y^e top in a halfe pace railed y^e same, but y^e front entrance is not finished; there is a large Court w^{ch} is to be pas’d and so stepps on Each side of stone w^{th} half paces up to a tarrass walke. Y^e large gates of jron barrs are 3 at y^e Court and from this tarress you Enter. The ffront is w^{th} Severall Large stone pillars Carv’d, at y^e Entrance into another Court w^{ch} y^e house is built about, and here are peaso’s supported w^{th} stone pillars, under w^{ch} you pass from one place to another. Out of it is y^e Chappel w^{ch} is a very lofty building and supported by 4 large pillars of black marble, two at y^e alter, 2 just at y^e bottom to support y^e gallery for y^e Duke and Dutches to sitt in. Y^e pillars are 14 foote, and so bigg that I could not Compass one w^{th} my arms. These 4 and 2 stepps by y^e alter was made out of one stone Cut out of y^e hill just by, so is all y^e marble about the house and so finely polish’d like a Looking glass; the pavem^t is black and white marble vein’d, Lay’d long wayes in large stones all of y^e same. Y^e painting is very fine, on the top and on the sides y^e history of Christ and y^e New testament. There is a very fine Carving of wood and Stone, the Dove at the alter y^e Angels and Cherubims w^{th} flowers, Leaves Laurell &c. &c. very Curiously Carv’d. The hall is very Lofty, painted top and Sides with armory and there is 18 steps on Each side goes up as an arch, w^{th} Iron Barristers tipt w^{th} gold w^{ch} Meetes on y^e top Large steps of stone. Thence you Enter a dineing roome, two drawing roomes, a bed Chamber and Closet w^{ch} opens quite thro’ the house a visto, and at the End of the dineing roome is a Large door all of Looking glass in great pannells all diamond Cutt. This is just opposite to y^e doores that runs into y^e drawing roome and bed Chamber and Closet so it shews y^e roomes to Look all double. Ye ffloores of y^e Roomes are all finely Inlaid, there is very Curious Carving over and Round the Chimney pieces, and Round the Looking-glasses that are in y^e peers between the windows, and fine Carv’d shelves or stands on Each side of y^e glass. Every roome is differing work and all fine Carving and over y^e doores some of it is of y^e Natural Coull^r of y^e wood and varnish’d only—others painted. Ye Dutchess’s Closet is wanscoated w^{th} y^e hollow burnt japan, and at Each Corner are peers of Looking glass; over the Chimney is Looking glass an oval and at the 4 Corners after this figure ⌘, and hollow Carving all round y^e glass. The roomes are all painted very finely on y^e top; all y^e windows y^e Squares of glass are so large and good they Cost 10s. a pannell. There was sweete tapistry hangings with small figures and very much silk, they Look’d as ffresh as if new tho’ bought severall yeares—there were no beds up. There was as many roomes on the other side w^{ch} were not ffinished, they were just painting y^e Ceilings and Laying the floores w^{ch} are all jnlaid, these were the Duke and dutchess’s apartm^{ts} besides which are a great number of roomes and severall offices. There is a fine Grottoe all stone pavement Roofe and sides, this is design’d to supply all y^e house w^{th} water besides severall ffanceyes to make diversion. Within this is a batheing roome, y^e walls all w^{th} blew and white marble—the pavement mix’d, one stone white, another black, another of y^e Red vaned marble. The bath is one Entire marble all white finely veined w^{th} blew and is made smooth, but had it been as finely pollish’d as some it would have been the finest marble that Could be seen. It was as deep as ones middle on the outside, and you went down steps into y^e bath big enough for two people. At y^e upper End are two Cocks to let in one hott, y^e other Cold water to attemper it as persons please—the Windows are all private Glass. The Gallery we ascended out of y^e hall into before we Came to y^e dineing roome, w^{ch} I should have spoken off then, was delicately painted over head, and Round on the top was a raile and Barristers so naturally drawn just round the Cornish, that you would take it for a Railed walke round y^e top to looke down into the gallery, There is another ffine staircase all stone and hangs on it self on y^e outside, y^e support is from y^e wall and its own building. Ye stone of y^e half paces are large and one Entire stone makes Each. On the top of y^e Staires y^e space Leading to y^e roomes are 3 large Stones, the Stones Cost 20^£ a piece, so large and thick you would wonder how they should be raised up so high and be supported by its own arch without any pillars on y^e outside. This is all of Stone Cut out of y^e hills w^{ch} Looks like what we Call free stone. Y^e house is all off the same and all the marble in y^e Windows, Chimneys and pavements is all marble dug out of the hill above the house, both black, white rance, and Curiously veined and polished, so fine as any I ever saw w^{ch} Came from beyond sea. Thence we came to Bankwell a pretty neate market town 2 mile; it Stands on a hill, yet you descend a vast hill to it w^{ch} you would thinke impossible to go down, and we was forced to fetch a Great Compass, and by reason of y^e steepness and hazard of y^e wayes if you take a wrong Way there is no passing. You are forced to have guides as in all parts of Darbyshire, and unless it be a few y^t use to be guides y^e Common people know not above 2 or 3 mile from their home, but they of y^e Country will Climbe up and down w^{th} their horses those steep precipices. There are many fine springs of water purling out of y^e Rock on these hills. At Bankwell there was an Excellent Minister in y^e Publick who pray’d and preach’d very seriously and his Life and Conversation is suitable, not very frequent in our dayes to be found.