Chapter II: Part 2

Banbury is a pretty little town, the streets broad and well pitched, the whole Country is very pleasant and the land rich—a red earth. They make some of their fences with stones—dry walls without Morter. It seemes much on a flatt and you have a large prospect, from thence to London we go by Alesbury 20 mile, thence to London 30 mile.

A journey my mother went from Newtontony to Durly in the fforest 15 miles, thence to Nurstead 15 mile to a Relations house, (Aunt Holts,) a neate new built house with brick and stone—a hall, little parlour on y^e left side, a back door into a Court built round with all the offices out to y^e stables and barnes: on the right side a great parlour and drawing roome y^t opened into the garden w^{ch} were fine gravel walks, grass plotts and beyond it a garden of flower trees and all sorts of Herbage, store of fruit, and freestone broad walke in y^e Middle to y^e house. Y^e Chambers are very good and Convenient and in y^e ffront is a place walled in, beyond is a long ground sett with rows of trees; on y^e right side of y^e house is a large grove of firrs halfe scotts halfe norroway which lookes very nobly. The roades all about this Country are very stony, narrow and steep hills or else very dirty as in most of Sussex, but good rich land; it is in 2 mile of petersffield in Hampshire w^{ch} is a good little neate town. In a mile of it is a Gentlemans house Called Maple Duram which Might now be new named into yew, ffor the great number of yew trees set thick in severall green walkes that grows high and is cutt close to the body up almost to the top, and y^e tops are left in a great head that spreads and makes it very shady and pleasant. From thence we went to Guilford w^{ch} is a good town built with stone. The streetes are broad—thence to Kingston on the Thames 30 mile thence to London 10 mile, from London againe to Colebrooke 15 miles, thence to Maidenhead 10. You go in sight of Winsor Castle on the left hand and Eaton Colledge as you pass the bridge at Maidenhead, and on y^e right hand you see Cliffton house a fine Building of y^e Duke of Buckingams. Thence to Redding 5 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large place, severall Churches, in one lyes buried one of my sisters that Dyed at my Grandmothers there of the small pox, her monument of white marble stands up in the Chancell. From Redding to the Veale 5 miles, Sad Clay Deep way this is in Barkshire, thence to Newbery 8 mile all Clay Mirey ground.

Newbery is a little town famous for makeing the best whipps—its a good market for Corn and trade. Thence to Newtontony over Way hill famous for a Faire kept there on Michelmas day.

My journey to London after my Mothers death was by Sutton 14 mile thence to Baseing stoke 12 mile, a large town for to Entertaine travellers and commodious, 2 mile beyond we pass by Basen on the left side, a house of the Duke of Boltons w^{th} a large parke and gardens. Y^e house is not fine being much demolished and spoyled after the Civil warres, it being a garrison held by y^e King. On the right hand at a mile distance you come in sight also of a great building like a little town—the house of S^r Robert Hendlys; so to Hartffordbridge is 8 mile more thats only a place full of jnns for the conveniency of the road. Thence over a heath you go to Bagshott that is 8 mile all on a heavy sand where you come by a parke of y^e kings, and in it is a pretty house—thence to Eggum 8 mile very heavy sand, so to Staines where you cross the Thames on a bridge to Midlsex and so to Houndslow 4 mile, to Brandford 4 mile, to Turnumgreen 2, thence to Hammersmith 2 to Kensington 2 and London 2 miles.

Another journey ffrom London to Alsebury 30 mile, from thence to great Horrwood in Buckinghamshire 10 miles, from thence I went to Hillsdon a house of Mr Dentons 7 miles which stands on a Riseing in the middle of a fine Parke and lookes very well; its not large, a good hall w^{th} 2 parlours and has a glide through the house into the gardens w^{ch} are neately kept—the grass and Gravel walkes w^{th} dwarfs and flower beds and much fruit; the prospect is fine all over the gardens and parke, and the river and woods beyond them. We went to Thorndon S^r Thomas Tyrrells, a good old house and very good gardens, some walkes like Arbours Close, others shady others open, some gravel, others grass with Cyprus’ trees, a fine river runnes all the back side of the garden, where is very good ffish. The house is low but runnes much on the ground, so there are many roomes w^{ch} are lofty but its not built in many storyes. Thence we went 4 mile to Stow S^r Rich^d Temples new house that stands pretty high. You enter into a hall very lofty with a gallery round the top, thence through to a great parlour that opens in a Bellcony to the garden, and is a visto thro’ the whole house, so that on the one side you view the gardens w^{ch} are one below another w^{th} low breast walls and Taress walkes, and is replenished with all y^e Curiosityes or Requisites for ornament, pleasure and use, beyond it are orchards and woods with rows of trees; on the other side you see y^e parke rowes of trees; the roomes are all lofty and good, the hall is not large but sutable to its height—a great many Chambers and roomes of state. Some the ground floores are inlaid, ffine Pictures and good staircase and gallery w^{ch} leads to the Ledds through a large Cupelow w^{ch} gives y^e prospect of the whole Country. We went to horrwood 7 mile, by severall other seates of S^r Ralph Verny’s who has most exact ffine gardens: within two mile off Horrwood is a well of minerall waters from Iron just like Tunbridg and as good. I dranke them a fortnight—there are severall of the same sort of springs all about that Country. Thence I went to Buckinghamtown 7 mile, a very neate place and we passed the river Ouise over a very high bridge tho’ the river seemed not then so very full, but it swells after great raines which makes them build their arches so large. Thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire 13 miles, thence to morton Hindmost in Glocestershire 14 miles, thence to Hales 8 miles over steep stony hills, a house of Lord Tracy’s where my brother Say lived—a good old house, and there is a pretty Chappel with a Gallery ffor people of quality to sitt in w^{ch} goes out of the hall that is a lofty large roome: good parlour and severall good lodging roomes. You ascend into the house by Severall stone stepps. Within 2 mile of this is a better house of y^e Lord Tracy with a very good parke which stands so high that by the Lodge I rode up y^e banks I could see all the parke about and y^e deer feeding and running.

There is a little river and large ponds—it gives you a good sight of the Country about, w^{ch} is pretty much inclosed and woods a rich deep Country and so the roads bad. There are severall high hills that I was on that gave a large prospect to y^e eye. I saw some of this land improved in the produce of woods w^{ch} y^e dyers use—its ordered in this manner, all the Summer season if drie for 4 or 5 months they sow it or plant it, but I thinke its sown—then its very Clean wedd when grown up a little out of y^e ground, for it rises no higher then Lettice and Much in such tuffts; y^e Coullour off y^e Leafe is much like Scabins and the shape Resembling that: this they Cutt of Close to y^e ground and soe out of y^e same roofe Springs the Leafe againe, this they do 4 tymes, then in a Mill w^{th} a horse they Grind the Leaves into a paste, so make it up in balls and drye them in a Penthouse to secure it from raine—only the wind dryes it. This plantation of about 12 acres would Employ 2 or 3 ffamilyes Men, Women and Children, and so they Generally Come and Make little hutts for themselves for y^e Season to tend it.

Here I saw flax In the growth. The smell of the Woode is so strong and offencive you can scarce beare it at y^e Mill: I could not fforse my horse neare it.

ffrom thence I returned. Backe by a place where is a stone stands to Divide ffour shires—Worcester, Oxford Glocester and Warwickshire—so I ascended there a high hill and travaill’d all on y^e top of y^e hills a pleasant and a good Roade. I came to Rowle Stone where are many such greate stones as is at Stonidge, one stands uppright, a broad Stone Called the King’s Stone, being the place a Saxon King was secured against his enemies; thence to Broughton in all 26 miles. Thence I went to Astrop where is a Steele water Much ffrequented by y^e Gentry, it has some Mixture of Allum so is not so strong as Tunbridge. There is a ffine Gravell Walke that is between 2 high Cutt hedges where is a Roome for the Musick and a Roome for y^e Company besides y^e Private walkes. The well runnes very quick, they are not Curious in keepeing it, neither is there any bason for the spring to run out off only a dirty well full of Moss’s which is all Changed yellow by the water. There are Lodgings about for y^e Company and a little place Called Sutton. this is four mile, thence to Oxfford 14 mile all in a very good Road and an exceeding pleasant Country. You pass by many ffine seates, Park’s, woods, the Land in Most part of this County is Rich Red Mould and deepe so as they are forced to Plough their Ground 2 or 3 tymes for wheate and Cannot use Wheeles to their Ploughs, its rich Land and produces plenty of all things.

Oxford opens to view 2 mile off, its Scituation is ffine on a Round hill Environ’d Round with hills adorn’d with Woods and Enclosures, yet not so neare as to annoy y^e town which stands pleasant and Compact. There is a ffine Causy for neare two mile by the Road for the Schollars to walke on, y^e Theater stands the highest of all and much in y^e middle Encompass’d with y^e Severall Colledges and Churches and other Buildings whose towers and Spires appeares very Well at a Distance; the Streetes are very Cleane and well Pitched and pretty broad. The high Streete is a very Noble one, soe Larg and of a Greate Length. In this is y^e University Church Called S^t Maryes, which is very large and Lofty but Nothing very Curious in it. The Theater is a Noble Pile of building, its Paved with Black and White Marble, exceeding Large and Lofty, built Round and Supported by its own architecture all stone, noe pillars to support it; itt has windows all round and full of Gallery’s ffor the Spectators as well as Disputants when y^e acts are at Oxford. Over the Rooff of this Large Roome are as Large roomes with Severall Divissions which are Used for the Drying the Printed Sheetes of bookes, and this has Light in Ovalls which is quite Round the Theater and in the Middle is a large Cupelow or Lanthorne Whence your Eye has a very ffine view of y^e whole town and Country; this is all Supported on its own work. Under the theater is a roome w^{ch} is ffitted for printing, where I printed My name Severall tymes. The outside of y^e theater there is a pavement and spikes of Iron in a Raile round with pillars of stone to secure it from the street. Just by it is a little building w^{ch} is full of Antiquityes w^{ch} have many Curiositys in it of Mettles, Stones, Ambers, Gumms.

There is the picture of a Gentleman y^t was a Great benefactor to it being a travailer; the fframe of his picture is all wood carved very finely with all sorts of figures, Leaves, birds, beast and flowers. He gave them 2 ffine gold Meddals or Silve gilt w^{th} two ffine great Chaines of the same, one was all curious hollow worke w^{ch} were given him by some prince beyond the Sea. There is a Cane which looks like a Solid heavy thing but if you take it in yo^r hands its as light as a feather, there is a Dwarfe shoe and boote, there are several Loadstones, and it is pretty to See how y^e steele Clings or follows it, hold it on the top att some distance the needles stand quite upright, hold it on either side it moves towards it as it rises and falls.

There are several good Colledges I saw most of y^m. Waddom hall is but little; in Trinity Colledge is a fine neate Chapple, new made, finely painted. Christ Church is y^e largest Colledge. The Courts large, y^e buildings large and lofty; in one of the Courts is a tower new built for to hang the Mighty Tom, that bell is of a Large size, so great a Weight they were forced to have engines from London to raise it up to the tower. There is a fine ring of bells in y^e Colledge S^t Magdalines, its just by the river, there is to Maudline Hall (which is a very large and good Cloyster) a very fine gravell walk, two or 3 may walke abreast, and Rows of trees on either side, and this is round a water w^{ch} Makes it very pleasant.

S^t Johns Colledge had fine gardens and walkes but I did but just look into it, so I did into kings, and queens Colledges, and severall of the rest I looked into, they are much alike in building but none so large as Christ Church Colledge. I was in New Colledge w^{ch} is very neate, but not large, the buildings good, Y^e Chapple very fine; Ye Garden was new makeing, there is a large bason of water In the Middle there is little walkes and mazes and round mounts for the schollars to divert themselves.

In Corpus Christus Colledge w^{ch} is but small there I was entertained at supper and eate of their very good bread and beare which is remarkably the best anywhere Oxford Bread is.

The Physick garden afforded great diversion and pleasure, the variety of flowers and plants would have entertained one a week. The few remarkable things I tooke notice off was y^e Aloes plant w^{ch} is like a great flag in shape, leaves and Coullour, and grows in the fform of an open Hartichoake and towards the bottom of each Leafe its very broad and thicke, In w^{ch} there are hollows or receptacles for y^e Aloes.

There is also y^e sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curles up together as if pained and after some tyme opens abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a filbert Leafe but much narrower and long. There is also the humble plant that grows on a long slender Stalke and do but strike it, it falls flatt on y^e ground stalke and all, and after some tyme revives againe and Stands up, but these are nice plants and are kept mostly under Glass’s, y^e aire being too rough for them. There is y^e wormwood sage Called Mountaigne sage, its to all appearance like Comon sage only of yellower green, a narrow long Leafe full of ribbs; In yo^r Mouth the flavour is strong of Wormwood to the taste. The library is as large as 2 or 3 roomes but old and a little disreguarded except one part w^{ch} is parted from the rest, wansecoated and fitted up neate and painted which was done by King james y^e Second w^n he designed Maudling Colledg for his priests A Seminary. Here I met w^{th} some of my relations who accompanyed me about to see some of the Colledges I had not seen before, S^t John’s Colledge which is large and has a ffine Garden at one Entrance of it with Large Iron-gates Carved and Gilt; its built round two Courts: the Library is two walks, one out of the other the inner one has severall Anatomy’s in Cases and some other Curiosity of Shells, stone, bristol Diamonds, skins of ffish and beasts. Here they have the Great Curiosity Much spoken off King Charles the ffirsts Picture; Y^e whole Lines of fface band and garment to the Shoulders and armes and garter is all written hand and Containes the whole Comon prayer, itts very small the Character, but where a straight Line is you May read a word or two; there is another of Gustaus Adolphus whose portraiture is represented to the Eye in writeing alsoe and Contains his whole Life and prowess; there is alsoe the Lord’s prayer and ten Commandments in the Compass of a Crown piece; there are also Severall books all of writing on vellum Leaves, and one book written in y^e Chinease Caractor on the jndian barks off trees; there is alsoe a Book of the Genealogies of the Kings since the Conquest to King Charles the Second, with the Severall Coates all Gilded very fresh till the two or three Last w^{ch} is pretended to be difficient from the art being Lost of Laying Gold so ffine on anything to polish it, but thats a great Mistake for that art is still in use in England, but the Excuse served the Negligence or jgnorance of the workman; there was alsoe One book w^{th} severall Cutts in it off y^e Conception of Christ till his Ascention. There was alsoe a ffine prayer book or Mass book of Q. Marias, this was in the new part of the Library which was neately wanscoated and adorned. There is a ffine grove of trees and walks all walled round.

Queens Colledge Library is all new and a stately building Emulating that of Christ Church in Cambridge, it is not so large and stands on one range of Pillars of stone, the other ffront being all with Statues in Stone, in Nitches and Carved adornements and on the tops ffigures and statues. The Staircase is pretty broad but not so ffinely wanscoated or Carved as that at Cambridge, the roomes is Lofty, but not so large, Well Wanscoated and there is good Carvings; its Mostly full of Books in the severall divisions and great Globes, its boarded Under foot, there is no ballcoany because the prospect is but to a dead wall, its very handsom.

Trinity Colledge Chapple which was not ffinish’d the Last tyme I was at Oxford but now it is a Beautifull Magnifficent Structure. Its Lofty and Curiously painted—the Rooffe and Sides y^e history of Christ’s ascention a very ffine Carving of thin white wood just Like that at Windsor it being the same hand. The whole Chappel is Wanscoated with Walnut tree and the fine sweet wood y^e same y^t y^e Lord Oxfford brought over when high admiral of England, and has wanscoated his hall and staircase with. It is sweet like Cedar and of a Reddish Coull^r, but y^e graine much ffiner and well vein’d.

New Colledge which belongs to the ffiennes’s, William of Wickam the founder, so I look’d on myself as some way a little Interested in that, here I was very handsomly Entertained by M^r Cross w^{ch} was one of my nephew Say and Seale’s Tutors when at Oxfford. These ffellowshipp in New Colledge are about 100 say and a very pretty appartinent of Dineing Roome, bed Chamber, a studdy and a room for a Servant, tho’ y^e Serviteurs of the Colledge gives attendance; and here they may Live very Neatly and well if Sober and have all their Curiosityes they take much delight in, greens of all sorts, Myrtle, oringe and Lemons and Lorrestine growing in potts of Earth and so moved about from place to place and into the aire sometymes. There are severall New Lodgings added and beautifyed here, the Gardens also w^{th} gravell and Grass walkes, some shady and a great mount in the Middle w^{ch} is ascended by Degrees in a round of Green paths deffended by greens cutt Low, and on y^e top is a summer house. Beyond these Gardens is a bowling-green and round it a Close shady walke, walled round and a Cutt hedge to the bowling-green.

There are in Oxford 18 Colledges and Six halls viz. New Colledge, Christ Church, Martin Colledge, Corpus Christy Colledge, Magdalen Colledge, University Coll, Pembroke Colledge, Linghorn Colledge, which is overlook’t by the Devil, Brasen-nose Colledge, Wadham Colledge, Queens Colledge, Belial Colledge, Orrel Colledge, Trinity Colledge, Exetter Colledge, All-souls Colledge, Jesus Colledge, S^t Johns Colledge,—halls 7 viz Alben hall, Maudlin hall, Newin hall, Hart Hall, Glocester hall, S^t Mary hall, and Edmond hall. There is a very odd Custom In Queen Coll. for every new-years-day, there is a Certain Sum Laid out In Needles and thread w^{ch} was Left by y^e founder and every Gentleman of that Colledge has one given him w^{th} these words: Take this and be thrifty.

In New Colledge Garden in y^e plott there is y^e Colledg Armes Cutt in box and y^e 24 Letters round it.

Next plott a sun-dial cutt in box and true-Lovers knotts; att y^e entrance of y^e Colledge over y^e gate is the ffiennes’s and y^e Wickhams Arms Cutt in stone Sett up there by my Nephew Say when he was at y^e Colledge before his travels. There is a large stone statue in the Middle of y^e first quadrangle of William of Wickhams y^e ffounder, railed in w^{th} Iron Grates.

In y^e Library are y^e pictures of some of y^e learned men w^{ch} belonged formerly to the University.

From Oxford I went to Abington and Cross’d y^e River Thames on a bridge att y^e end of y^e town and so Entered into Barkshire and rode along by y^e thames side a good way, w^{ch} was full of Barges and Lighters—its 6 mile to Abington. Before I proceed will Insert y^e names of y^e ffounders of y^e halls and Colledges in Oxford. University Colledge was founded by King Alfred. Baliol Coll. was founded by John and David Baliol, Merton Coll. by Walter de Mert, Exetter Coll. by Walter Stapleton, Oriel Colledge by King Edward the second, Queen Coll. by Robert Egglesfield, New Colledge by W^m of Wickham, Lincoln Colledge by Richard Fleming, All souls Coll. by Henry Chicklay Magdalin Coll. by W^m Wainfleet, Brason-nose Coll. by W^m Smith, and Rich^d Sutton, Corpus-Christy Coll. by Rich^d fox, Christ-Church Coll. by Henry y^e eight, Trinity Colledge by Tho. Pope, S^t Johns Coll. Thomas white, Jesus Colledge by Queen Elizabeth, Wadham Coll. by Nicholas and Dorothy Wadham, Pembrooke Coll. by Thomas Feisdale and Rich^d Whitewick, Hart Hall by Walter Stapleton, S^t Mary Hall by King Edward the 2^d, Newin Hall by W^m of Wickham, Magdalen Hall by W^m of Wainfleet, Gloster Hall by thomas White, Alton Hall by y^e abbess of Alban, St Edmond Hall by y^e arch Bishop of Canterbury.

From thence I went to Abington. Abington town seemes a very well built town and the Market Cross is the ffinest in England, its all of free stone and very Lofty; Even ye Isles or Walk below is a Lofty arch on severall Pillars of square Stone and four square Pillars: over it are Large Roomes with handsome windows, above w^{ch} is some Roomes with Windows and Little Like the Theatre att Oxford only this is a Square building and that round, it makes a very ffine appearance.

From thence I went to Elsly 8 mile farther, a little Market town, good Inns thence Newbury. Most of this way is much on Downs and good Roads, its 7 mile to Newbury where I called on an old acquaintance Marryed to a tradesman M^r Every, who is so Like the Minister his Uncle y^t was my acquaintance. Here I staid an hour and then proceeded on to Basenstoke 12 long miles, being my ready road to Chichister, and from Basenstoke to Alton 8 mile and from thence to Petersffield and to Nurstead 11 long Miles, this was in Hampshire so was Basenstoke: here I lay at a Relations House M^r Holt that marry’d My Mothers sister. From thence I went to Chichester through a very ffine Parke of the Lord Tankervailes, stately woods and shady tall trees at Least 2 mile, in y^e Middle stands his house w^{ch} is new built, square, 9 windows in y^e ffront and seven in the sides. Brickwork w^{th} free stone coynes and windows, itts in the Midst of fine gardens, Gravell and Grass walks and bowling green, w^{th} breast walls Divideing each from other, and so discovers the whole to view. Att ye Entrance a Large Coart w^{th} Iron gates open w^{ch} Leads to a less, ascending some stepps, ffree stone in a round, thence up More Stepps to a terrass, so to the house; it looks very neate and all orchards and yards convenient. Thence I entered into Sussex and soe Chichester, w^{ch} is 12 miles. This is but a Little Citty Encompass’d with a wall w^{th} 4 gates which Casts the two streetes directly across each other and so Lookes through from Gate to Gate, one Streete does, the other it seemes did so formerly, but in new building of some of their houses they have encroach’d into the Streete and so hinders the through visto. In Midst of these 2 or 4 streetes Divided by the Market place is a very faire Cross of Stone Like a Church or greate arch, its pretty Large and pirramydy form w^{th} severall Carvings. The Cathedrall is pretty Lofty, y^e painting on y^e Roofe in the quire and Isles Looked very ffresh tho’ 300 yeares old, there is in the jsle on y^e roofe y^e phaney of 6 faces joyned and 6 eyes and yet each face has two eyes and in another place the faces turned outward and so the 6 faces are 12 eyes. The Quire is good, there is a fixed pulpit in it overight y^e Bishops seate w^{ch} is not usual, I never saw it before—Usually they have pulpits that are Moveable.

There is a faire Organ and another pulpit in y^e body of the Church, there is also an entire Church in y^e Cathedral by it self w^{ch} is y^e parish Church. There are in all 6 parishes and so many Churches besides y^e Cathedrall. Over the alter is painted glass Chequer’d blew white and Red, so deepe the Coull^r is struck into the Glass as makes it darkish, in one of the Isles is a square place, on each side y^e Wall is filled with y^e Kings pictures from y^e Conquest to their present Majestyes; there is also one Picture pretty Large of a Saxon King in his Robes and an abbott with his brethren, petitioning to build this Cathedrall which before belonged to y^e Isle of Ely where was y^e Bishops see. There is also one large Picture of another Bishop petitioning King Harry y^e 8^{th} to ffinish and paint y^e Church. On y^e other side the wall is filled up w^{th} y^e severall abbots and Bishops since ye Conquest that have been of Chichester. In their advancement they are brought from Bristol to Chichester and next advance is to Ely and so on to greater revenues. The tower is 260 odd steps, from whence you may see the whole town. There are 3 or 4 good New houses, one is y^e Dean’s, Mr Edds, a very good man; from thence I saw y^e Isle of Wight, Spitthead; the sea comes within a mile of ye Citty, Remarkable for Lobsters and Crabs Chichester is. There is an Engine or Mill about a Mile off the town draws up salt water at one side from the sea and fresh water from a Little rivulet w^{ch} descends from a hill, and so supply’s y^e town. Halfe way off y^e tower you go round y^e quire and Looke down into it, there are severall effigies of marble and allabaster of y^e Bishops of the place and one of the Earle of Arundell and his Lady.

Chichester is 50 mile from London y^e Direct way by Guildford, but I went through more of Sussex w^{ch} is much in blind dark Lanes and up and down Steepe hills, to Billinghurst and passed through Arundell parke belonging to y^e Duke of Norfolke, this was 18 mile, from whence I went to Dorken in Surry 15 mile, where are y^e best trouts in y^e river w^{ch} runns by Box hill a Remarkable diversion to people that go to Epsum. The hill is full of box w^{ch} is Cutt out in severall walks shady and pleasant to walk in tho’ the Smell is not very agreeable; the brow of the hill being Such a height gives a Large prospect of a ffruitfull vale full of inclosures and woods, and this River Runns twining itself about and is called y^e Swallow, and Just about Dorken and Leatherhead 4 mile thence it sinkes away in many places w^{ch} they call Swallow holes, this Must be some quicksand, but y^e Report of it is it sincks here and runnes und^r ground a Mile or two and rises about Moles and Runs againe. Camden does credit this and repeates a tryal one made of forceing a Duck into one of those falls w^{ch} Came out at y^e other side by Moles w^{th} its ffeathers allmost all Rubbed off w^{ch} supposses y^e passage to be streight, but how they Could force y^e Duck into so difficult a way or whither anything of this is more than Conjecture must be Left to every ones Liberty to judge. From Dorken its 10 mile to Kingsston, a Chalky hard Road w^{ch} is in Surrey, this stands on the Thames, its a great Market for Corne; I was there on Satturday and saw great quantity’s of Corn and Mault sold; thence I passed by Richmond park wall a good way and Came in sight of Hampton Court w^{ch} is a Noble Building, had the good queen Mary Lived to have ffinished it, it would have been y^e noblest palace in y^e Kingdom. I passed the end of Wanstead and Clapham and part of Lambeth having Chealsey College in view and y^e whole Cittys of Westminster and London so thro’ Southwarke over London bridge into Middlesex 10 mile in all from Kingston—this Little journey was 220 mile.

Another journey into Herrifordshire from London, by Uxbridge to Islip 5 miles that is 7 mile off Oxford, from Islip to Woodstock where remaines no foote steps of faire Rosomonds Bower, only y^e walls round y^e parke and the little brookes that supply’d it w^{th} water for y^e baths and wells and ponds. Thence to Morton Hindmost in Glocestershire to a Relations house, My Uncle Rich^d ffiennes’s widdow, a little neate stone built town, good Innes for y^e travellers being y^e road from London to Worcester and Herrifford and wales. Thence over Broadway hill to Parshur in all 30 mile by 12 of y^e Clock, thence to Upton, where we pass on a large bridge over y^e fine River the Severn w^{ch} runs from Worcester and to Glocester, Shrewsbury and to Bristol where it runns into the sea—in some places its very broad, Some Miles over, but here it was no broader than y^e Thames is at Staines—it affords good ffish, Salmon and severall sorts besides. I think this River does not Ebb and flow so farre into y^e Land. Here we Enter into Worcestershire and ascend Manborn hills or as some term them y^e English Alps, a Ridge of hills Divideing Worcestershire and Heriforshire and was formerly Esteemed the divideing England and Wales, Herriford Shropshire &c. were Weltch Countys. They are at least 2 or 3 miles up and are in a Pirramidy fashion on y^e top. I rode up upon y^e top of one of y^e highest from whence Could discern the Country above 40 miles round and noe hills but what appeared Like Burrows or Mole hills, these being so high Nothing Could Limitt y^e Eye but distance. Just at y^e Bottom stands Worcester town which Looks like a Large well built town of Brick and Stone—I was not in it. On the one Side of this high Ridge of hills Lies Worcester: Oxford Glocestershire &c. appears in plaines, enclosures, Woods and Rivers and many Great hills tho’ to this they appeare Low: on the other Side is Herriforshire w^{ch} appears Like a Country off Gardens and Orchards the whole Country being very full of fruite trees &c. it lookes like nothing else—the apple and pear trees &c. are so thick even in their Corn fields and hedgerows. The descent is as long and steep in some places as its riseing was. Thence to a Relations house my uncle John ffiennes and his son; New house, 20 mile from Parshur which I rode all in one day in June and y^e miles are here very long so that at Least it may be esteemed the Last 20 mile as long as the 30 mile gone in the morning. My Cos’n ffiennes has made a very convenient habitation at this place w^{ch} Contrary to its Name was an old built house—Timber worke, but by his alteration and additions of good Brick walls round the Court and 4 pretty gardens, w^{th} good Walks grass platts much good fruite, of w^{ch} the Country does Easily produce, and if persons are Curious in planting may have y^e best w^{ch} my Cosen has here, and the walls some Lower than other gives the sight of y^e Garden at one view. Severall large orchards behind the house with new Stables and offices w^{ch} makes it look well. Itts in sight of severall houses, but all old buildings—Lady Hopton’s in a Low meadow—there are woods by it and a Little river parts them, called y^e Framy w^{ch} gives Name to Severall Little villages as Cannon froom, Bishops ffroom, Castle froom; this runnes into another Little river Called the Lug and both runnes into the River Wye w^{ch} is on y^e back side of Herriford town. This was 7 miles from us, its a pretty little town of timber buildings, the streetes are well pitched and handsome as to breadth and Length. The river Wye is as broad as the Thames is at Maidenhead bridge, or hardly so broad, its a Rapid River and seemed much disturb’d; there is very good ffish in it; it did not looke Cleare w^n I saw it, but was thick and yellow but y^t is against foul weather.

The Mount which is the only thing of y^e Castle that remaines Commands the sight of y^e river and town. The Cathedrall is very neate but small, the Carving of the wood in the Quire was good. In the Library I was shown by y^e Dean of Herriford y^e History of pope Joan with her Picture, it was printed in and with the history of all the popes in Rome successively—it was writt in old English, but I made a shift to read it. There is ye Bishops Palace and y^e Deanes and Doctors houses w^{ch} are the best buildings, but they are not very ffine or Large. 7 mile thence on a flatt is M^r Paul folie’s Seate called Stoake in whose parlour you see Herriford quite plainer—its a very good old house of Timber worke but old ffashion’d, and good Roome for Gardens, but all in an old fform and mode and M^r Folie Intends to make both a new house and gardens. The latter I saw staked out, so it will be to no purpose to say anything of it as its now only y^e good Barns and Stables that are new Covered w^{th} slate, y^e ffine Bowling-green walled in, and a Summer-house in it all new. There is beyond this, ffine woods and a delicate Parke above the house—pailed in; y^t is stored with deare both red and ffallow and affords 12 brace in a season, there are also fine Coppices.

From thence to Newhouse againe 7 mile, hither we went 5 or 6 tymes from Newhouse to Broughton. We went by Eshum and y^e Vale of y^e Red horse being a Vale of a great extent, the earth is all Red, its a very Rich Country for Corn and ffruites and woods. Its Called y^e Vale of Eshum or of y^e Red horse from a Red horse Cut out on some of y^e hills about it and y^e Earth all Looking Red, y^e horse Lookes so as y^t of y^e white horse Vale. Here is all very heavy way to Weston 25 mile in Glocester, to a Parsonage of my Cos’n Pheramus ffiennes given him for his life by his and our Grandfather Will^m Lord Viscount Say and Seale—its a neate building all stone, and y^e walls round Court, Gardens and yards, all are of Stone.

A mile thence was one of his sisters marry’d to a Parson M^r Browne that has a very neate and Convenient Little house and Gardens. A mile from thence is a very high hill from whence I Could see a great distance—Warwick and Coventry and a large tract of Land all round. Att the foote of this hill Lyes Camden Town w^{ch} I went through, its built all of stone as is the Church w^{th} the Effigie of the Little Viscountess Camden that lived to a great age and was Mother to the Earle of Gainsborough; its Cut out in white Marble and stands in an arch in the wall, w^{th} two Leav’d doores to it, to keep it from y^e dust—there were severall little Monuments besides in the Church. From thence to Brailes and thence to Broughton 19 miles to my Brother Say, w^{ch} is 50 miles from London; I went by Alsbury 20 thence 30 to London.

A journey I went into the New fforest in Hampshire to Ffarnum 38 mile, there we go by Aberstone the Duke of Boltons house, stands on y^e Side of a hill where are ffine Gardens and much ffruite. From Ffernum you see the Castle w^{ch} is y^e Bishops of Winchesters house, its a large building; thence you go to Alton 7 mile, thence to Alsford 7 mile more, you go along on the hills in sight of the River all w^{ch} gives name to those places, its a good Chaulkey way. Thence to Winchester 7 mile—in one mile off the town is Woolsey y^t was formerly y^e Bishops house, a large Rambling building like a little town, this is on Maudline hill whereon a Considerable ffaire is kept neare Michelmas, y^e Traffique mostly hopps which y^t Country produceth good and Cheese—its noted for a vast many of Waines from Severall parts especially from the West Country.

Winchester is a large town was once y^e metropolis, there is a wall Encompassing it with severall Gates; the streetes are pretty good, Large and long, y^e buildings but Low and old, only some few in the Close w^{ch} are new built of the Doctors houses by y^e Colledge and the Church. Y^e Deans house is a good old house, timber buildings; there are some of the roomes Lofty and large, a dineing, drawing room and bed Chamber very good; a long Gallery runns through the house and opens into the Garden by a Descent of Severall Stone stepps. Y^e Garden is but small—there are Green and gravel walkes higher and Lower, but its all in an old fashion’d form but neately kept and severall Curiosityes in potts of flowers and greens. The Bishops palace stands in a Low Ground or Watry Meadow, its a timber building but so unpleasant that the Bishop lives not at it but at Ffarly Castle about 20 mile off.

The Cathedrall at Winchester is one of y^e biggest in England and is to be admired for its Largeness, not its neatness or Curiosity, there is an ascent of 20 steps up to the quire that is finely Carved in y^e wood, and on the top all round stands in ffine painted Chests the bones of the Kings of England y^t were buried there; for Winchester was the Regal Citty w^{ch} now it has lost, as also a peculiar art of dying y^e best purples. In the Church there are no good Monuments worth notice, the body of the Church is very large, y^e Steeple Lookes Noble, but y^e Spire is not a neare so high as Salisbury. In the town is a new building begun by K. Charles the Second for a Palace when he Came to hunt and for aire and diversions in the Country. I saw y^e Modell of it w^{ch} was very fine and so would it have been if ffinished; but there is only y^e outside shell is set up, there were designed fine apartm^{ts} and two Chapples but its never like to be finish’d now.

There is a good river runns thro’ the town, at y^e backside the Castle stood high, but there now remaines only y^e ruined walls and banks on w^{ch} they make gardens and hopp yards, w^{ch} runnes a great Length on the side of y^e brow of the hill that some part of y^e town is built on—it Lookes pretty. Here is a good Colledge it is on y^e same foundation y^t New Colledge in Oxford are; both built and Endowed by Great Will^m of Wickam an ancester of y^e ffiennes and Lord Say and Seale. So all the founders Kindred by his own Statutes are first to be Chosen and have a Right to many priviledges—its only in default or want of any of his Kindred or of Such and Such Parishes w^{ch} he names that any other person ought or Can be Chosen a Child of this Colledg. They have such a Number above 100—they have their Diet and a gown every year, and so much mony Every quarter, and here they have their Learning and provision.

There are also fellowships—w^{ch} as they become vacant they who are fitt its bestowed on them—on w^{ch} a young Man May Maintain himself well and so improve his Learning. These fellowships at New Colledg are forfeited if they do not live there, or for y^e most part; and also as soone as they are Marryed they are put out in number fellows and master and warden, but at winchester the fellowships are of greater value and do appertaine to a person during Life in Case he Comes and resides for y^e most part there, even when they are marryed.

I thinke there are but 7 fellowships here. There is a warden of y^e Colledge and a Schoolemaster and usher at Winchester. Y^e Colledge is a good Pile of Building there is a very pretty Chapple in it and a very fine Library w^{ch} is in y^e Cloysters y^t are very good for walking.

There is a large hall they eate in and have their exact Commons to Every one, so have the fellows, their Lodgings are Convenient and all their offices, the Warden has built a new appartment for himself w^{ch} looks well about a mile or two beyond Winchester, we go by S^t Cross, a Large hospitall for old men and I thinke most is for y^e decayed schollars.

The Masters place is worth 1000 pound a yeare—it used to be annexed to y^e Warden of the Colledges place, by their ffoundation they are to give reliefe to any Travellers that call there so farre as a Loafe of bread as big as our two penny bread is and a Draught of beare and a piece of mony. I thinke its y^e value of a Groate. Ffrom thence I came to Redbridge, thence to Buckland in the new forest in all 20 mile; ffrom Buckland w^{ch} was a Relation’s house—S^r Rob^t Smiths—its a mile to Limington a seaport town—it has some few small shipps belongs to it and some Little trade, but y^e Greatest trade is by their Salterns. Y^e Sea water they draw into Trenches and so into Severall ponds y^t are secured in y^e bottom to retain it, and it stands for y^e Sun to Exhale y^e Watry fresh part of it, and if it prove a drye sumer they make the best and most Salt, for y^e raine spoyles y^e ponds by weakning y^e Salt. When they think its fit to boyle they draw off the water from y^e ponds by pipes w^{ch} Conveys it into a house full of Large Square Iron and Copper panns; they are shallow but they are a yard or two if not more Square, these are fixed in Rowes one by another it may be twenty on a Side, in a house under which is the ffurnace y^t burns fiercely to keepe these panns boyling apace, and as it Candy’s about y^e Edges or bottom so they Shovell it up and fill it in great Baskets and so the thinner part runns through on Moulds they set to Catch it, w^{ch} they Call Salt Cakes. Y^e rest in y^e Baskets drye and is very good Salt and as fast as they Shovell out the boyling Salt out of y^e panns they do replenish it w^{th} more of their Salt water in their pipes. They told me when the Season was drye and so the Salt water in its prime they Could make 60 quarters of Salt in one of those panns w^{ch} they Constantly attend Night and day all the while the fire is in the ffurnace, because it would burn to waste and Spoyle y^e panns w^{ch} by their Constant Use wants often to be repaired. They Leave off Satterday Night and let out y^e fire and so begin and kindle their fire Monday Morning. Its a pretty Charge to light the fire. Their Season for makeing Salt is not above 4 or 5 Months in y^e year and y^t only in a dry Summer. These houses have above 20 some 30 others more of these panns in them, they are Made of Copper. They are very Carefull to keep their ponds well secured and Mended by good Clay and Gravell in the bottom and Sides and so by sluces they fill them out of the sea at high-tides and so Conveyed from pond to pond till fit to boyle. Ffrom Limmington to Lindhurst is 6 mile, where is a house of y^e Kings w^n he comes to hunt in the new fforest, and y^e Lord Warden of the fforest is there when he Comes to hunt and Hawk, to Whome Comes all the Gentry of the Country to waite on him—he dines at Night from 7 to 12 of the Clock. He is served in plaite, those y^t hunt with him all day Comes and Dines or Supps with him. He has power to dispose and order y^e Concerns of y^e forrest for y^e timber for shipps and to have it Cherrish’d and secured from Spoyle, as also the deare and Game to be preserved, y^e disposeing of the Lodges are in his power. There are 15 Lodges and these are disposed to Gentlemen that have underkeepers y^t takes care of it, and w^t is peculiar to y^e New forrest and known no where Else are these Brouce Deare; at these severall Lodges y^e Keepers gather Brome and at Certaine tymes in y^e day by a Call gathers all the Dear in within the railes which belongs to Each Lodge, and so they Come up and feed upon this Brouce and are by that meanes very fatt and very tame, so as to Come quite to Eate out of y^e hand. All the day besides they range about and if they meete anybody if it be their own keeper without y^e pail of y^e Lodge they will run from him as wild as Can be. These Lodges are about 4 miles asunder and its a great Priviledge and advantage to be a Cheefe Keeper of any of these Lodges; they have Venison as much as they please and Can easily shoote it when the troop Comes up w^{th} in y^e paile, for none are allowed to Shoot out in y^e forrest, nor are allowed to go out w^{th} Gun or dog or to keep any Except Gentlemen, and not they if they have been found Shooteing in y^e fforest. I think its ffellony for any to kill y^e Kings dear. there are severall Rangers of y^e fforest, and 6 verderers y^t are their justices or judges of all matters Relateing to y^e fforest, these ought allwayes to reside in y^e fforest and are to attend the King when he Comes into y^e new fforest. Clothed in green, they have a buck and Doe Every year for their ffee, besides being Masters—the under keepers are at their beck so y^t they Can get as Much venison as they want. There is also a Rider of y^e fforest who is to see about y^t all things are secure and well done and y^e Timber kept and Deer, to see they are not spoyled or Destroyed: his Right is to all the Deer y^t are hurt or Maimed as also he is to have y^e Shoulder of y^e first Stagg that is hunted and killed in the Season. There is a Bow man w^{ch} is to provide y^e King w^{th} Bow and arrow when he Comes into y^e fforest—they have some priviledge also but y^e shooteing by bow and arrow being Left off, y^t office is not regarded.

Ffrom Lindhurst about a Mile is a parke called new parke enclosed out of y^e fforrest with Pailes, it belongs to y^e Kings house; there is a house in it w^{ch} was the Lodge—a large old Timber house. Ffrom Limington to y^e Isle of Wight its about 4 Leagues; to Yarmouth you go by Hurst Castle, y^t runnes on a point of land into y^e sea just by the Needles within a League of Yarmouth, and those needles are severall Great Rocks on y^t side of the Island, craggy, and severall stand out into the sea w^{ch} makes it very hazardous for shipps to pass there, Especially in a Storme or for Strangers—y^e passage being narrow between the Needles and Hurst Castle, Can easily Command any ship that would pass there. Yarmouth is a little Sea-port and has a Little Castle that Can annoy Any Enemy that should pass by Hurst, so between them may well Secure y^t part of y^e Isle and all on y^e back side of the jsland are those Needles y^t are a Natural ffortification it being inaccessible.

So at another part of y^e jsle there is Sandumffort w^{ch} is a pretty strong place. Y^e jsland is 10 mile in the breadth and 30 mile in Length—Upon Most of the high hills you see the wall of y^e sea on both Sides, if not all round you as in some places. Ffrom Yarmouth to Newport is seven mile, a little town y^t y^e Arm of the Sea Comes up to—its one of the biggest towns in y^e Island; in a mile off it is Casbrooke Castle into w^{ch} King Charles y^e first retired when he was worsted by y^e Parliaments forces—there are some good roomes still that remaine but y^e most part are destroyed and only ruined walls to be seen. There is a deep well of 40 ffathom they draw up y^e bucket by a great Wheele in w^{ch} they put a horse or ass—a stone thrown down sounds a long tyme ere you hear it splash into y^e water. About seven miles thence is Cowes both East and west 2 ports for Shipps to ride in and be Recruited w^{th} all sorts of provisions w^{ch} is done on very reasonable terms. Y^e ffertillity of the whole jsland produces Corn of all sorts in great plenty, and all sorts of Cattle and butter; Cheese as also Great Store of ffish and ffowle; there is some Little part fforrest land but for y^e most part are Meddows and good downs.