Chapter XII: Part 12

There is a good Key and a good Harbour for y^e shipps to Ride, by meanes of y^e point of Land w^{ch} runns into y^e Sea in a neck or Compass w^{ch} shelters it from y^e maine and answers the Lizard point w^{ch} you see very plaine—a point of Land Looks Like a Double hill one above y^e other that runns a good way into y^e sea. Y^e Lands End is 10 mile ffarther, pretty steep and narrow Lanes, but its not shelter’d w^{th} trees or hedg Rows this being rather desart and Like y^e peake Country in Darbyshire, dry stone walls, and y^e hills full of stones, but it is in most places better Land and yeilds good Corne, both wheate Barley and oates and some Rhye. About 2 mile from the Lands End I Came in sight of y^e maine ocean on both sides, the south and north sea and soe Rode in its view till I saw them joyn’d at y^e poynt, and saw the jsland of Sily w^{ch} is 7 Leagues off y^e Lands End. They tell me that in a Cleer day those in the Island Can discern the people in the maine as they goe up y^e hill to Church, they Can Describe their Clothes. This Church and Little parish w^{ch} is Called Church town is about a mile from the poynt. The houses are but poor Cottages Like Barns to Look on, much Like those in Scotland, but to doe my own Country its right y^e Inside of their Little Cottages are Clean and plaister’d and such as you might Comfortably Eate and drink in, and for Curiosity sake I dranck there and met w^{th} very good bottled ale. The Lands End terminates in a poynt or Peak of Great Rocks w^{ch} runs a good way into y^e sea, I Clamber’d over them as farre as safety permitted me, there are abundance of Rocks and Sholes of stones stands up in the sea a mile off some here and there, some quite to y^e shore, w^{ch} they name by severall names of Knights and Ladies Roled up in mantles from some old tradition or ffiction—Y^e poets advance description of y^e amours of some Great persons; but these many Rocks and Stones w^{ch} Lookes Like y^e Needles in y^e Isle of Wight makes it hazardous for shipps to double y^e poynt Especially in stormy weather. Here at y^e Lands end they are but a Little way off of France, 2 dayes saile at farthest Convey them to Hauve de Grace in France, but y^e peace being but newly entred into w^{th} y^e Ffrench I was not willing to venture at Least by myself into a fforreign Kingdom, and being then at y^e End of y^e Land, my horses Leggs Could not Carry me through y^e deep, and so return’d againe to Pensands 10 mile more, and soe Came in view of both y^e seas and saw y^e Lizard point and Pensands and y^e Mount in Cornwall w^{ch} Looked very fine in y^e broad day, the sunn shineing on y^e rocke in y^e sea. Then I continued my returne from Pensands to Hailing and now y^e tyde was down and so much Land appeared w^{ch} lay under water before, and I might have forded quite a crosse, many y^t know y^e country do, but I tooke y^e safer way round by y^e bridge. Here is abundance of very good Fish tho’ they are so ill supply’d at Pensands because they carry it all up y^e Country East and Southward. This is an arme of y^e North Sea w^{ch} runs in a greate way into y^e Land, its a Large Bay when y^e sea comes in and upon y^e next hill I ascended from it could discover it more plaine to be a deep water and y^e supply of y^e maine ocean. Just by here lay some ships and I perceived as I went, there being a Storme, it seemed very tempestious and is a hazardous place in the high tides; so I came to Redruth. I perceive they are very bleake in these Countryes especially to this North Ocean and y^e winds so troublesome they are forced to spin straw and so make a caul or net work to lay over their thatch on their Ricks and out houses, w^{th} waites of Stones round to defend y^e thatch from being blown away by y^e greate winds, not but they have a better way of thatching their Houses w^{th} Reeds and so close y^t when its well done will last twenty yeares, but what I mention of braces or bands of straw is on their Rickes w^{ch} only is to hold a yeare. These places as in some other parts, indeed all over Cornwall and Devonshire, they have their carryages on horses backes, this being y^e time of harvest, tho’ later in y^e yeare than usuall being y^e middle of septemb^r, but I had y^e advantage of seeing their harvest bringing in, w^{ch} is on a horse’s backe w^{th} sort of crookes of wood like yokes on either side—two or three on a side stands up in w^{ch} they stow y^e corne and so tie it w^{th} cords, but they cannot so equally poise it but y^e going of y^e horse is like to cast it down sometimes on y^e one side and sometimes on y^e other, for they load them from y^e neck to y^e taile and pretty high and are forced to support it w^{th} their hands, so to a horse they have two people, and the women leads and supports them as well as y^e men and goe through thick and thinn—sometymes I have met with half a score horses thus Loaded—they are Indeed but Little horses their Canelles as they Call them, and soe may not be able to draw a Cart, otherwise I am sure 3 or 4 horses might draw 3 tymes as much as 4 horses does Carry and where it is open Ground and roads broad, w^{ch} in some places here it was, I wondred at their Labour in this kind, for the men and the women themselves toiled Like their horses, but the Common observation of Custom being as a second nature people are very hardly Convinc’d or brought off from, tho’ never soe jnconvenient.

From Redruth I went to Truro 8 mile, w^{ch} is a pretty Little town and seaport and formerly was Esteemed the best town in Cornwall, now is the second next Lanstone. Its just by y^e Copper and tinn mines and Lies down in a bottom, pretty steep ascent as most of the towns in these Countrys, that you would be afraid of tumbling w^{th} nose and head foremost. Ye town is built of stone—a good pretty Church built all stone and Carv’d on y^e outside, it stands in y^e middle of y^e town, and just by there is a market house on stone pillars and hall on y^e top; there is alsoe a pretty good key. This was formerly a great tradeing town and flourish’d in all things, but now as there is in all places their Rise and period soe this, w^{ch} is become a Ruinated disregarded place. Here is a very good meeteing but I was hindred by y^e raine y^e Lords day Else should have Come to hearing, and so was forced to stay where I Could hear but one Sermon at y^e Church, but by it saw y^e fashion of y^e Country being obliged to go a mile to y^e parish Church over some Grounds w^{ch} are divided by such stiles and bridges uncommon, and I never saw any such before; they are severall stones fixed aCross and so are Like a Grate or Large Steps over a Ditch that is full of mudd or water, and over this just in the middle is a Great stone fixed side wayes w^{ch} is the style to be Clambered over. These I find are the ffences and Guards of their Grounds one from another, and Indeed they are very troublesome and dangerous for strangers and Children. I heard a pretty good Sermon but that w^{ch} was my Greatest pleasure was the good Landlady I had, she was but an ordinary plaine woman but she was understanding in the best things as most,—y^e Experience of reall religion and her quiet submision and self Resignation to y^e will of God in all things, and especially in y^e placeing her in a remoteness to y^e best advantages of hearing, and being in such a publick Employment w^{ch} she desired and aimed at y^e discharging soe as to adorne y^e Gospel of her Lord and Saviour, and the Care of her Children. Indeed I was much pleased and Edify’d by her Conversation and y^e pitch of Soul Resignation to y^e will of God and thankfulness that God Enabled and owned her there in, was an attainment few reach y^t have greater advantages of Learning and knowing y^e mind of God. But this plainly Led me to see that as God himself teacheth soe as none teacheth Like him, soe he Can Discover himself to those immediately y^t have not the opportunity of seeing him in his sanctuary, and therefore to him we must address for help in this or any Duty he Calls us to, both in the use of what meanes he appoynts as alsoe for success and blessing on it.

From Truro w^{ch} is 9 mile from Ffallmouth and 4 mile from Trygolny w^{ch} was y^e place I was at before w^{th} my Relation, that would have Engaged my stay with them a few dayes or weekes to have given me the diversion of the Country, and to have heard the Cornish nightingales as they Call them, the Cornish Chough—a sort of Jackdaw if I mistake not—a Little black bird w^{ch} makes them a visit about Michaelmas and gives them y^e diversion of the notes w^{ch} is a Rough sort of musick not unlike y^e Bird I take them for, so I believe they by way of jest put on the Cornish Gentlemen by Calling them nightingales; but the season of the year enclined to raine and y^e dayes declineing I was affraid to delay my Return, and these parts not abounding w^{th} much accomodation for horses, theirs being a hard sort of Cattle and Live much on Grass or ffurses of w^{ch} they have y^e most, and it will make them very ffatt being Little hardy horses, and as they jest on themselves do not Love the taste of oates and hay, because they never permit them to know the taste of it. But my horses Could not Live so, Especially on journeys, of w^{ch} I had given them a pretty exercise, and their new oates and hay suited not their stomach. I Could get noe Beanes for them till I Came back to S^t Columbe againe w^{ch} from Truro by S^t Mitchel was 12 miles mostly Lanes and Long miles. As I observed before I saw noe windmills all these Countrys over, they have only the mills w^{ch} are overshott and a Little rivulet of water you may step over turns them, w^{ch} are the mills for Grinding their Corn and their ore or what Else. From S^t Columbe I went to Way bridge 6 Long miles. There was a river w^{ch} was flowed up by y^e tyde a Greate way up into the Land, it Came from y^e north sea, it was broad, y^e bridge had 17 arches.

Thence to Comblefford over steep hills 9 mile more, some of this way was over Commons of Black moorish Ground full of Sloughs. The Lanes are deffended w^{th} bancks wherein are stones, some Great rocks, others slaty stones, such as they use for tileing. Comblefford was a Little market town but it was very indifferent accomodations, but the raines y^t night and next morning made me take up there till about 10 oClock in the morning; it then made a shew of Cleering up made me willing to seek a better Lodging. 2 mile from this place is a Large standing water Called Dosenmere poole in a Black moorish Ground and is fed by no rivers except the Little rivulets from some high hills yet seemes allwayes full w^{th} out Diminution and flows w^{th} y^e wind and is stored with good ffish, and people Living near it take y^e pleasure in a boate to goe about it. There is alsoe good wildfowle about it; it seemes so be such a water as the mer at Whitlesome in Huntingtonshire by Stilton its fresh water and what supply it has must be the rivulets y^e must Come from y^e south sea being that wayward towards Plymouth. As I travelled I Came in sight of a great mountaine esteemed the second highest hill in England supposeing y^e account Black Combe in Cumberland y^e first, but really I have seen soe many Great and high hills I Cannot attribute preeminence to Either of these tho’ this did Look very Great and tall, but I thinke its better said the highest hill in each County.

I travelled 4 pretty Long miles much in Lanes and then Came into a Common where I Cross’d the Great roads w^{ch} on the Right hand Leads a way to Plymouth and the south sea, the Left hand to Bastable and the north sea, w^{ch} Conveys the stone or rather marble w^{ch} they take from hence at Bole, remarkable Quarrys for a Black stone, Exceeding hard and Glossy Like marble, very Dureable for pavements. This they send to all parts in tyme of peace and London takes off much of it.

Here I Rode over a Common or Down 4 mile Long in sight of y^e North sea and saw Hartly poynt which is the Earle of Baths just by his fine house Called Stow, his fine stables of horses, and Gardens. There I discern’d the Poynt very plaine and just by I saw the jsle of Lundy which formerly belonged to my Grandfather William Lord viscount Say and Seale, w^{ch} does abound with ffish and Rabbets and all sorts of ffowles, one bird y^t Lives partly in the water and partly out and so may be Called an amphibious Creature, its true that one foote is Like a turky the other a gooses foote; it Lays its Egg in a place the Sun shines on and sets it so exactly upright on the small End and there it remaines till taken up and all the art and skill of persons Cannot set it up soe againe to abide. Here I met with some showers w^{ch} by fitts or storms held me,—to Lanston 4 mile more, these 12 mile from Cambleford was not Little ones and what with the wet and Dirty Lanes in many places I made it a tedious journey. I Could see none of the town till just I was as you may say ready to tumble into it, there being a vast steep to descend to when the town seemed in a bottom yet I was forced to ascend a pretty good hill into the place. Lanston is the chief town in Cornwall where the assizes are kept, I should have remarked at y^e Lands End that Pensands was the Last Corporation in England, soe this is one of y^e Last Great towns tho’ noe Citty, for Cornwall is in y^e Diocese of Devonshire w^{ch} is Exeter.

There is a Great ascent up into the Castle w^{ch} Looks very Great and in good repaire the walls and towers round it, its true there is but a part of it remaines, the round tower or fort being still standing and makes a good appearance. The town is Encompass’d w^{th} walls and gates, its’ pretty Large tho’ you Cannot discover the whole town, being up and down in so many hills. The streetes themselves are very steep unless it be at the market place where is a Long and handsome space set on stone pillars w^{th} the town hall on the top, w^{ch} has a Large Lanthorne or Cupilo in the middle, where hangs a bell for a Clock with a Dyal to the streete. There is in this place 2 or 3 good houses built after the London form by some Lawyers, Else the whole town is old houses of timber work. At a Little distance from the town on a high hill I Looked back and had the full prospect of the whole town which was of a pretty Large extent. A mile beyond I crossed on a stone bridge over a river and Entred into Devonshire againe, and pass’d through mostly Lanes w^{ch} were stony and dirty by reason of y^e raines y^t ffell the night before, and this day, which was the wettest day I had in all my summers travells, hitherto having had noe more than a shower in a day and that not above 3 tymes in all except when I Came to Exeter. As I Came down from Taunton there was small raine most of the afternoon but this day was much worse, so that by that tyme I Came through Lanes and some Commons to Oakingham w^{ch} was 15 mile I was very wet. This was a Little market town and I met with a very good Inn and accomodation, very good Chamber and bed and Came in by 5 of the Clock, so had good tyme to take off my wet Cloathes and be well dryed and warme to eate my supper, and rested very well without sustaining y^e Least damage by the wet. I should have Remark’d that these roads were much up and down hill thro’ enclosed Lands and woods in y^e same manner the other part of Cornwall and Devonshire was, gaineing by degrees the upper Grounds by one hill to another and soe descending them in Like manner. These raines fully Convinced me of y^e need of so many Great stone Bridges whose arches were soe high that I have wonder’d at it because the waters seemed shallow streames, but they were so swelled by one night and dayes raine y^t they Came up pretty near the arches and ran in most places w^{th} such rapidity and Look’d so thick and troubled as if they would Clear all before them. This Causes Great floods, and the Lower Grounds are overwhelm’d for a season after such raines, so that had I not put on and gotten beyond Lanston that day there would have been noe moveing for me till the flouds w^{ch} hourly encreased were run off.

Next day I went to Cochen Well 10 mile, mostly good open way except a hill or two w^{ch} were steep and stony, tho’ this was the Longer way and about, yet by reason of y^e former raines it was the safest, for y^e Lower way was run over by the waters w^{ch} are Land flouds from the swelling Brookes, w^{ch} are up in a few hours and are sunck in the same tyme againe—the wayes were somewhat Dirty. Thence to Exeter 10 mile more, but this was the basest way you Can goe and made much worse by these raines, but its narrow Lanes full of stones and Loose ground, Clay, and now exceeding Slippery by the raines.

A quarter of a mile on this side of the town I stood on a high banck from whence the prospect of y^e Citty of Exeter was very pleasant, Could see it to great advantage, y^e Cathedrall and other Churches Spires w^{th} y^e whole town, w^{ch} in generall is well built, w^{th} y^e good Bridge over y^e Ex, w^{ch} is a fine river on whose Banckes are severall Rows of trees all below the town. The walks all about it augments the beauty of y^e Citty. From whence I went to Topsham 3 miles which is a Little market place and a very good Key; hither they Convey on horses their Serges and soe Load their shipps w^{ch} Comes to this place, all for London. Thence I saw Starre Cross where the Great shipps Ride and there they build some shipps. This was up the river, 5 or 6 miles up y^e river, but the tide being out Could not goe and it was ten mile by Land and their miles are soe Long here I would not goe it seing almost as well the shipps y^t Lay there as if at the place.

Thence I returned to Exeter 3 mile where I had been very Kindly Entertained by M^r Goswill and his wife, w^{ch} was one my broth^r S^r Edmond Harrison did Employ in Buying Serges. From Exeter I went to Honiton 15 mile, all fine Gravell way, y^e best Road I have met with all in the west. Here it is they make the fine bone lace in imitation of the Antwerp and Flanders Lace and jndeed I think its as fine—it only will not wash so fine, w^{ch} must be the fault in y^e thread. Honiton is a pretty large place, a good market house, near it a good Church w^{th} a round tower and spire w^{ch} was very high and a Little peculiar in its forme, somewhat Like a Pigeon house Rooffe. Here is a very Large meeteing of Descenters. Thence I went to Axminster 7 mile more, but not soe good way being much in Lanes stony and Dirty and pretty much up and down hills, Like y^e other parts of those Countrys.

Beyond Axminster where I passed over the river Ax on a pretty Large Bridge I Came to Somersetshire againe. This Axminster is a Little market town and the London Road by Chard, but I struck out of that road 2 mile off the town to Liegh w^{ch} was 4 mile from Axminster, to a Relations house M^r Hendlys, w^{ch} stands on a hill, but its such an Enclosed Country and narrow Lanes you Cannot see a Bow shott before you, and such up and down steep hills. Its an old house, and Large Court w^{th} open gates that enter you into a passage, on the Right hand a good Parlour new wanscoated, next that a Kitchen and pantrys Leads into a Court where all the offices are and stable and Coach houses. On the Left side of y^e passage at y^e Entrance is a Large old hall w^{th} a Great halfe pace at y^e upper End w^{th} 2 Chimneys in the hall. This Leades into a passage on the Left hand and so through to another parlour w^{th} good old fashion Carved wanscoat. The roomes are low, out of y^e passage Leads up a paire of staires to 3 or 4 roomes all Low and but one well furnished; then out of same passage below is a doore into the Gardens w^{ch} are one Lower than the other with stone stepps, its Capable of being very handsome if made with open Grates to set one out to see y^e orchards and woods beyond. They were a turffing y^e walks and makeing banks in order to it. Y^e house alsoe is Capable of alteration to a good house if the windows were made Lower and y^e roomes fitted w^{th} wanscoate and good ffurniture. Just to the front there is design’d a visto to be Cut thro’ the wood to the water side w^{ch} will be very fine being on a descent.

About a mile from hence is one M^r Preadneas house, a fine old house and well furnished but they permit none to see it, soe I saw it not only drove by it to see my Cozens Little Girle at nurse and soe returned home againe a mile, and then from Liegh I went through narrow stony Lanes up hills and down, w^{ch} steeps Causes the water on raines to trill down on the Low ground that for a few hours or a day there will be noe passing in y^e bottom, w^{ch} happen’d while I was at Liegh; one nights Raine put the Cattle in the meddows swimming and hindred us from going to Church, the water would have Came over the windows of the Coach. These stony Lanes I passed till I Came to the Great road which Comes from Lime, here I Entred into Dorsetshire and soe went through a Little town Called Maiden Newton eight mile more, and soe thence to Dorchester town 6 mile more; all a fine hard Gravel way and much on the downs—this is good Ground and Much for sheep. Thence I went to Blandford 12 Long miles thro’ Piddletown Milborn and WhitChurch. There I staid with my relation Cos’n Collier, Husys and Ffussells, thence to Salisbury 18 mile. When I had passed 6 mile I Came through a Gate w^{ch} brought me into Wiltshire and soe over y^e downs to Salisbury and from thence to Newtontony 7 miles.

I went from Newtontony to Sarum and home againe 3 tymes w^{ch} made it 42 miles in all, then to Wallop 4 miles and home again 4 miles, and to Grattly twice and back againe 12 mile, and to Cholderton twice 4 miles, to Allington and home 2 mile more, then to London.

From Newtontony to Winchester 15 mile, there I went to see a Relation M^{rs} Horne thence Alsford 8 mile. The Little raines I had in the morning before I Left Newtontony made the wayes very slippery, and it being mostly on Chaulk way a Little before I Came to Alsford forceing my horse out of the hollow way his feete failed and he Could noe wayes recover himself, and soe I was shott off his neck upon the Bank, but noe harm I bless God and as soone as he Could role himself up stood stock still by me, which I Looked on as a Great mercy—indeed mercy and truth all wayes have attended me. The next day I went to Alton 10 miles thence Ffarnum 9 miles more. This proved a very wet day, after an hours Rideing in the morning it never Ceased more or Less to raine, w^{ch} made me put in at Ffarnum and stay all the day after I Came in at noone. But then it began to raine much faster and soe Continued. Thence next day I went over the fforest in sight of Ffairly Castle w^{ch} is the Bishop of Winchesters pallace, it Lookes nobly on a hill, thence to Bagshott 9 miles, thence to Winsor over the fforest 7 Long miles, this way most Clay deep way, the worse by reason of y^e raines and full of Sloughs. About a mile off Windsor Castle appeares standing on a hill much after the manner of Durham w^{th} y^e walls and battlements round, only that is all stone and this is but partly soe and y^e rest Brick plaister’d over in imitation of stones w^{ch} does not Look so well. It is a pretty great ascent to y^e town w^{ch} is well built, something suitable to London by reason of its affinity to y^e Court, and I saw the Cathedrall or S^t Georges Church w^{ch} is very fine built all stone and Carved on y^e outside, severall Cloysters Leads to the Doctors houses—its a Lofty noble building. The quire is properly S^t Georges Chappel whose Rooff is very high and Carved very Curiously, all free stone, so is the rest of y^e Church. There hangs up y^e Banners and Ensignes of honour belonging to y^e Severall Knights of the honourable order of y^e blew garter, their Complement is 26, there was one void at this tyme by the Death of y^e Earle of Peterborough. There is a Greate Cerimony in their Inauguration, their seates are of Wanscoate Carved which are all quite round the quire, w^{th} Each Garters and Coate armours and banners on the top, and when they are jnstalled. their Garments are blew velvet, in shape Like the Coapes, Lined w^{th} white Sattin or silk, that and their blew Garter in which hangs a George on horseback besett w^{th} jewels and a Diamond Garter put on their Right Leg, which is performed by 2 of y^e former Knights of the order, which is given them by the King that is the Principal of y^t order. Then they have an oath Given them to maintain the Rights and Cerimonyes of said order and soe are seated in their seates. There are Great fees paid by each new Knight to y^e officers to the poore Knights of Windsor, whose seates are just under y^e Seates of the Knights of y^e Garter, 18 poore Knights of Windsor w^{ch} have houses provided for them about the Cloyster and 48^£ p^r annum each besides their perquisits at such tymes. There are alsoe 18 singing men and petty Cannons, those that are preachers has houses and 30^{lb} p^r annum each, but the others have but 22^{lb} each a yeare and houses to Live in. These all have their ffees at the jnstalment of Each Knight of the Garter and of this order are severall Princes and Great men both here and in forreign Parts.

There is a very Large fine organ at y^e Entrance of the Quire, the alter is Crimson velvet striped w^{th} Gold tissue, Large Candlesticks and Basons Gilt. At the jnstallment there is a Great deale of plaite set out w^{ch} belongs to the Chappel. Over the alter is a painting of Christ and his twelve apostles at y^e passover supper very naturally drawn, and over it a Large window full of fine paintings—the history of the testaments. Y^e Quire is paved all with black and white marble under which is a Large vault for y^e Royal family. There Lyes King Henry y^e 8^{th} and King Charles the first &c. There is in the Church a tombe and vault of y^e Duke of Norfolks familly w^{th} steele Carvings all about it very Curious, and to add to its variety it may be all taken piece by piece and put up in a box, its a very Large thing and great variety of work—this is on the Right side of the alter.

There is in a Little Chappel by, a very fine monument with two Large Statues in alabast^r Painted and gilt all at Length in their garments, and round the tomb stone are the Statues of their Children, 7 daughters, four of them were twinns and soe represented being put together, and 3 sonnes, all alabaster, and there is a role of matt under the head of the Lord and Lady that was so naturall, Looked like real Matt. This was Lord Earle Lincolns tomb. There is another monument of the Earle of Rutlands, the first of the family w^{ch} was Earle 100 year since, it was in the yeare ano: Dom: 1513: there is round that 6 Sonns and six Daughters with Carvings of other Images holding their Coates of armes. There is another monument w^{ch} is of y^e old Duke off Beaufort who was base son to King Edward the 4^{th}, and therefore there is a barr of reproach aCross the English arms w^{ch} he bears. There is another statue of white marble in a Leaneing posture almost Lyeing quite along and they say its very Like his Effigie—this was the Bishop of Chichester. There is another Bishops Effigie in y^e wall just to y^e waste of alabaster. There is a Chappel in w^{ch} are prayers at 8 of y^e Clock at night. There is a white marble ffont. The rooff of the quire is very Curious, Carv’d stone and soe thinn to y^e Leads one might grasp it between thumb and finger, and yet so well fixt as to be very strong. From thence I proceeded on to y^e Castle w^{ch} is the finest pallace y^e King has Especially now White hall is burnt; but that was old buildings and unless it were the banqueting house and the apartment which our good Queen Mary beautifyed for herself that was never soe well as Winsor. You Enter in through a gate; on the right hand is a tower which is built w^{th} Redouts and walks round it as was Durham Castle. Its 120 stepps up where is the Guard roome hung with armes, thence a Dineing roome, the Duke of Norfolks appartment, a Drawing roome and two bed Chambers, one w^{th} a half bedstead as the new mode, dimity w^{th} fine shades of worstead works well made up—there are good Pictures. The next roome has such a bed but that is fine Indian quilting and Embroidery of silk. The tower on the Leads is as many stepps more, I walked round it and Could see a Great prospect of the whole town and Winsor fforest and the Country round to Kensington, I Could see Lord of Hollands house and Rowes of trees, and to Harrow of the hill, and to Shooters hill beyond London, and the town of Winsor Looked very well. There were severall noblemens houses, Duke S^t Albans and fine Gardens, Just by it is the Lord Guidolphins house and Gardens; there I Could see the fine walk or rather Road planted with trees of a huge length into y^e fforest, w^{ch} King Charles made for his going out in Diversion of shooteing, and here I could see y^e river Thames w^{ch} twists and turns itself round y^e meddowes and Grounds. Upon this tower w^{ch} is most tymes moist, all in the walls grows y^e best maiden haire both white and black, w^{ch} is an herb much esteemed for Coughs and to put into Drinks for consumption.

Thence I proceeded on to a Large Court Like the Quaderangle at Christ Church College in Oxford, or Trinity in Cambridge, in the middle of which is a statue of King Charles y^e Second on horseback all of brass, and is railed in w^{th} Iron spikes; round this Court are the Buildings w^{ch} are y^e severall appartments of the Lords of y^e bed Chamber, and the Ladies; also one side is the Lodgings belonging to the princess Ann of Denmarke w^{ch} are all of stone and well built and beautifyed. In the middle you Enter a Large pair of jron gates finely Carv’d into a paved Large space supported w^{th} several rows of Stone Pillars, and ascending up Large Staires, which Enters you into the Queens Guard Chamber hung full of armoury, w^{ch} is so Exactly set, the Pikes set up like Pillars and such distances, y^e muskets Laid a long one above the other y^e boxes for y^e powder, and the Edge of y^e Cornish is Pistols set as thick as they can be set, and above it are drums and helmets and back and breast armour. The Chimney piece is of y^e same; swords in the middle, there poynts turned outward, with a round of Little Pistolls set Close in quarter Circle; its all exactly uniforme and very handsome. Next into a noble Hall w^{ch} has very fine paintings, this is the Standard for Curiosity in all places you see painting, its done by the same hand did the paintings att Winsor. The top is full of all sort of varietys, in the middle is King Charles’s Picture, y^e sides are all descriptions of Battles, and between Each Picture in the Pillars is y^e George and Blew garter and Starre, at y^e upper End is the Large Picture of S^t George Encountering y^e dragon and at the Lower End is y^e picture of y^e King that first Instituted this order of the Blew garter, and in putting it on himself on his son, who was just returned victor from some Considerable Battle. I should have noted in my Remarks of the Cerimonies of that order that when any Dies and a Garter Drops they make a solemn offering up of all their Ensignes of honour to y^e Church and then take them down and pay some ffees as well as at their Entrance into it. From this roome I Entred into y^e Chappel under the gallery or Closet the King and Queen sets in at prayers, this was supported by four Brass Gyants or Else painted Like Brass. This seate of y^e Kings Lookes into y^e Chappel, its Crimson velvet, all the jnside and Cannopy w^{th} y^e Cloth w^{ch} hung over it all alike Richly Embroyder’d with Gold fring. This is the house Chappel and is Exceeding beautifull, y^e paintings of the rooffe and the sides which is y^e history of Christs miracles his Life and the good he did in healing all distemper, w^{ch} are described at Large here and Lookes very Lively. There is alsoe the most Exactest workmanship in y^e wood Carving, which is as the painting the pattern and masterpiece of all such work, both in ffigures, fruitages, beasts, birds, fflowers, all sorts, soe thinn y^e wood, and all white natural wood without varnish. This adorns the Pillars and void spaces between the paintings, here is as Great qualiety so much for Quantety. There was a pretty alter at y^e upper End and two gallerys for y^e musick.

Thence I went up staires into a Large dineing roome, Damaske Chaires and window Curtaines, wanscoated, and severall fine pictures. The Rooffe of this was well painted also, but they are soe Lofty its enough to Breake ones neck to Looke on them. Thence into a Gallery full of Pictures w^{th} a Large Looking Glass at y^e End. Thence into y^e Drawing roome where is the Large Branch of silver, and y^e sconces round y^e roome of silver, silver table, and stands, and Glass frames, and Chaire frames. Next is y^e queenes Chamber of state, all Indian Embroidery on white Sattin being presented to her by y^e Comp^y. On it is Great Plumes of white ffeathers, there is very good tapistry hangings full of gold and silver, but they are Large old ffigures. Here’s a silver table, and stands, and Glass fframe. There was a raile set a Cross at y^e beds ffeete w^{ch} reached Each side of y^e roome, made of sweate wood frames and open Wires in y^e middle, and was to be Doubled together in Leaves as a screen: this was instead of y^e raile use to be quite round y^e King and queens beds to keep off Companyes Coming near them.

Thence into an anti-roome through a Little Gallery or passage, thence into y^e Kings dressing roome almost all Glass; y^e Chimney piece is full of Great stone heads in nitches or hollows made for them, of some Emperours. Y^e windows of all y^e roomes are Large sashes as big as a good Looking-glass and are all diamond Cut round the Edges, the height of y^e windows makes them Looke narrow. Thence into the kings Constant bed Chamber, being one of y^e halfe bedsteads of Crimson and Green damaske, jnside and outside the same hangings, and Chaires and window Curtaines the same; it was Lofty and full with good ffringe, and there was such another screen or raile at y^e ffeete of the bed that tooke y^e Length of the roome as in the queens Chamber; here was tables, stands, Glass frames, Gilt gold, fine Carving on the Chimney pieces, both here and in y^e queens’ appartment. Y^e next was ye Chamber of State w^{ch} is noble. Indeed, very Lofty and painted on y^e roofe as they all are. The bed was green velvet Strip’d down very thick with Gold orrice Lace of my hands breadth, and round the bottom 3 such orrices and Gold ffring all round it and gold tassels; so was the Cornish. The jnside was y^e same, at the head piece was Like Curtaines ffringed round w^{th} gold and tyed back w^{th} Gold strings and tassells as it were tyed back and soe hung down in the middle, where was the Crown and sypher Embroyder’d; the hangings y^e same and such another screen aCrosse the roome to secure the bed from y^e Common. Next this is the drawing roome of state, the Cannopy and throne and y^e part behind is all green velvet Richly Embroyder’d with silver and Gold, of high Emboss’d work, and some Curiously wrought Like needlework that you Can scarce see y^e Ground or stuff its wrought on, and the Crown of Crimson velvet Embroyder’d just over the Chaire or throne of state; the ffoot-stoole the same, w^{ch} was all set on a half pace or part raised above y^e rest as the manner is, with, a fine Carpet over it. The Cannopy was so rich and Curled up and in some places soe ffull it Looked very Glorious, and was newly made to give audience to the Ffrench Embassadour to shew y^e Grandeur and magnificence of the British Monarch—some of these ffoolerys are requisite sometymes to Create admiration and regard to keep up the state of a kingdom and nation.

Thence I went into the Common audience roome, where was a throne on such a raised space w^{th} a Carpet. This throne and Canopy and y^e back with Stooles and Chaires was Crimson and Gold Coullour’d ffigured velvet. Out of this I Came into a Large roome for people to wait in, painted with black and white and gold—Description of some ffights and men in armour. Thence into the Kings Guard Chamber w^{ch} is deckt as the Queens, the walls being adorned w^{th} y^e severall armes put in Exact order, only in y^e pillars or spaces here they hang the Bandaleers which holds their powder. In the mantle piece there was noe difference, but in y^e middle was the starre and soe set about with y^e pistols and swords. Thence I descended Large staires of stone, and soe through a Court back to y^e walk of pillars, and soe through the Large jron gate into the Courts one without another all built round.

Winsor town Lookes well, the streetes Large, the Market Cross on stone pillars and a Large hall on the top; from thence the streete runs along to y^e Bridge over the Thames and there you Enter Buckinghamshire and a quarter of a mile off, tho’ jndeed there is building all along. There is Eaton Colledge a good stone building Carved on y^e outside, its round a square. There is at the ffront a Large schoole roome—400 schollars and 8 fellows w^{ch} have 400 a piece yearely. Y^e master has 1000^£, he payes all the ushers, in number seven; there is alsoe an under master for the Little schollars, this was ffounded by King Edward the Confessour and Endowed so richly by him, and on the same ffoundation is the revenues of y^e Cathedrall and y^e poore knights w^{ch} goe in a peculiar black gown like fryers. All their salleryes and y^e repaire of the Cathedrall is taken Care of by y^e same ffoundation, w^{th} y^e Colledge, not but there is a Little Chappel to y^e Colledge w^{th} in itself for Every dayes prayers. The Chappel and schoole room takes up two sides of the square, the two others is the Lodging for y^e ffellows and for y^e schollars; then y^e middle there is an arch w^{ch} Leads to y^e Cloyster and soe into their kitchen and Cellars which are very Convenient and high but pretty old. Just by is the great Hall in w^{ch} they eate, the schollars and fellows and masters should eate with them. This is the same ffoundation as Kings Colledge in Cambridge so y^t those schollers that are fitt to be removed to y^e University at y^e Election are sped to Kings Colledge in Cambridge and so are advanced as they Can get friends into ffellowshipps to Either. Ffrom Windsor I went to y^e fferry 3 mile and Rode in sight of y^e Castle on this side w^{ch} is all y^e K: and Q: appartments and Lookes very noble, y^e walls round w^{th} y^e battlements, and Gilt balls and other adornments. Here I fferry over y^e Thames and so went a nearer way which is a private road Made for y^e kings Coaches and so to Colebrooke 3 mile more. Thence to Houndslow-heath and so to London 12 mile more, then I went to Bednallgreen 4 miles and home againe 4 mile more, and here ends my Long journey this summer in w^{ch} I had but 3 dayes of wet except some refreshing showers sometymes, and I thinke y^t was not above 4 in all the way and it was in all above 1551 miles and many of them Long miles, in all which way and tyme I desire w^{th} thankfullness to own y^e good providence of God protecting me from all hazard or dangerous accident.

It Cannot be thought amiss here to add some remarke on y^e metropolis of England. London whose scituation on so noble a river as the Thames w^{ch} Emptyes it at y^e Boy of y^e Nore, being there joyned w^{th} y^e Medway another very fine river alsoe, and falls there into y^e sea w^{ch} is about 30 miles from London, and is an Ebbing flowing river as farre as Sheen beyond London. This is very Comodious for shipps w^{ch} did Come up just to y^e bridge, but from Carelessness y^e river is Choaked up, that obliges y^e shipps to Come to an anchor at Blackwall. All along this river are severall docks for building shipps of y^e biggest burden; six miles from the town y^e Last yeare was built y^e Royal Souveraign w^{ch} is our greatest ship. London joyned w^{th} Westminster, which are two great Cittyes but now w^{th} building so joyned it makes up but one vast building with all its Subburbs, and has in y^e walls ninety seven Parishes, without y^e walls 16 parishes, 15 subburbs, Surrey, Middlesex, 7 parishes in Westminster.

London is y^e Citty properly for trade, Westminster for y^e Court, y^e first is divided into 24 wards to each which there is an alderman, and themselves Consist of Common Council men and all freemen of the Citty, and have power to Choose these aldermen and make their own orders and to maintain their own priviledges. All freemen or Livery men of this Citty hath a Right to Choose their sherriffs of w^{ch} Every yeare there is two, one for Middlesex y^e other y^e Corporation, but both are joyned and officiate together in all matters of juries justice or Ceremonies, and to maintaine all Rights. These freemen alsoe have their voyce in Choice of their Lord Major w^{ch} is done Every yeare with this Sollemnity, the Sheriffs being Chosen and sworne at Mid summer, y^e Michaelmas after y^e Lord Major is Chosen and sworne; y^e evening before which is Simon and Judes day is a feast Called Calveshead feast. Next day y^e old Lord Major Comes to meete y^e new one and w^{th} him on his Left hand is Conducted on horse back in all their gowns of scarlet Cloth Lined w^{th} ffurr; all y^e aldermen in Like Robes only differenc’d as their station, those of them w^{ch} have been Lord Majors weare a Gold Chaine Ever after, but those y^t have not passed y^e Chaire weare none. Y^e Lord Major is allwayes one of y^e aldermen and he has a great gold Chaine round his neck, the Sheriffs also weare a gold Chaine round their neck y^t yeare. Thus on horseback they proceed two and two w^{th} all their officers. Y^e Lord Major has his Sword bearer w^{ch} walkes before him w^{th} the Sword in an Embroyder’d Sheath he weares a Great velvet Cap of Crimson, the bottom and y^e top of ffurr or such Like standing up Like a turbant or Great bowle in forme of a Great open Pye, this is Called y^e Cap of Maintenance. This is y^e Lord Majors Chiefe officer, he holds his place Dureing his Life and has 1500 a yeare allowed him for his table w^{ch} in all things is as good as Lord Major’s and he Entertaines all people at it, yet he himself must officiate at the Lord Majors table to see all things in order and Comes in at sett tymes accordingly to performe them and bring y^e Lord Majors Compliments to y^e Campanyes. He thus walkes before the Lord Mayor w^{th} y^e water Bayliff beareing a Gold Mace &c. At Fleete ditch they Enter y^e Barges w^{ch} are all very Curiously adorned and thus he is Conducted y^e river being full of Barges belonging to y^e severall Companyes of London, adorned with streamers and their armes and fine musick, and have sack to drinke and Little Cakes as bigg as a Crown piece. They Come to Westminster staires where they Land and are Conducted, the Lord Majors traines being borne up as well y^e old as new Lord Major, they Enter Westminster Hall and are Conducted to y^e severall Courts of justice where there is severall Ceremonyes perform’d. The new Lord Major is presented to y^e King or those deputed to act under him and then is sworne, all which being over they are Conducted back to their Barges and soe to y^e staires they took barge, where they are received by some of y^e nobility deputed by the king who make some Little speech of Compliment and Give y^e Lord Major and aldermen a treate of wine and sweet meates passant. They mount on horseback and returne only y^e new Lord Major takes y^e right hand and haveing by y^e sheriffs invited y^e King and Court to dinner, w^{ch} sometymes they accept but mostly refuse, because it puts the Citty to a vast Charge; they being then Conducted through y^e Citty w^{th} Greate acclamations their own habits and trappings of their horses being very fine, and they haveing all the Severall Companyes of y^e Citty w^{ch} walke in their order and gowns w^{th} pagents to most or many of their Companyes, w^{ch} are a sort of Stages Covered and Carryed by men and on y^e top many men and boys acting y^e respective trades or Employ^{ts} of Each Company, some in shipps for y^e Merch^{ts} and whatever Company the new Lord major is off his pageant is y^e finest and y^t Company has y^e precedency that yeare of all y^e Companyes Except y^e mercers Company, w^{ch} allwayes is the first and Esteemed y^e Greatest, and when there is a Lord Major of y^t Company their pageant is a maiden queen on a throne Crowned and with Royal Robes and scepter and most richly dressed, w^{th} Severall Ladyes dressed, her attendants, all on y^e same pageant and w^{th} a Cannopy over her head and drawn in an open Chariot w^{th} 9 horses very finely accouter’d and pages that Ride them all, w^{th} plumes of feathers. After being drawn through y^e Citty she is jnvited by y^e Lord major to a dinner provided on purpose for her, and soe many Rich Batchelors are appointed to Entertaine her that is a ranck among y^e freemen. She has her traine bore up and is presented to Lady Majoris that salutes her as doth the aldermens Ladyes, all w^{ch} are Conducted in their Coaches to Guildhall. The new Lady Majoress Richly habitted has her traine borne up, and Introduced by one of the officers. The Sheriffs Ladyes Likewise weares gold Chaines that yeare, the Lady majoress does wear it ever after as doe all y^e aldermens Ladyes whose husbands have been Lord majors, and as I said before y^e Lord Majors must be aldermen and must have served as sheriffs before, and allwayes y^e king Confers Knighthood on the person that is Chosen to be Sheriff unless he were a knight before.

In Guild Hall there are severall long tables plenty fully ffurnished w^{th} all sorts of varietyes suiteable to the season, w^{th} fine Desserts off sweetemeates, and jellys w^{ch} in Pyramidyes stand all y^e tyme; the hott meate is brought in in first and second Courses. The Lord Major and Lady Majoress sitt at the upper End but in Case the Court is there then the Lord Major has one table, y^e Lady another, and y^e old Lady Majoress is set at y^e Left hand of y^e new Lady, and the aldermens Ladyes at her Right hand according to their senioritye, after which they Retire into a Gallery where is danceing the whole Evening.

All this yeare Lord or Lady Majoress goe no where but w^{th} their officers to attend them, and y^e old Lord Major and Lady Majoress has their traines bore up to Guild Hall and after dinner return without it. The whole affaires of y^e Citty are managed by y^e Lord Major and Court of aldermen and Common Councill men, he is obliged to take care of justice and Right, he does during his yeare jnvite Each Company w^{th} all their Masters Wardens and officers twice—the Last tyme all their wives alsoe—the Sherriffs doe y^e Like. Each person brings their Gift two, three Guinneas, some more and according to their Gift at y^e Last Entertainment they have a silver spoon double Gilt, Either weighing soe many ounces and soe many as they Give Guinneas many tymes in the yeare: those y^t would shew particular respect will go dine w^{th} them and bring presents without haveing spoones.