Chapter IX: Part 9

They reckon it but 8 mile from the place I was at the night before, but I was 3 or 4 hours at Least going it. Here I found a very good smith to shoe y^e horses, for these stony hills and wayes pulls off a shoe presently, and wears them as thinn that it was a Constant Charge to shoe my horses every 2 or 3 dayes, but this smith did shoe them so well and so good shoes y^t they held some of the shooes 6 weekes. Y^e stonyness of the wayes all here about teaches them y^e art of makeing good shooes and setting them on fast. Here I cross’d one of y^e stone bridges y^t was pretty Large w^{ch} Entred me into Cumberlandshire. This River together with y^e additionall springs Continually running into it all the way from those vaste precipices Comes into a Low place and form a broad water w^{ch} is very Cleer and Reaches 7 mile in Length, Uleswater its Called, such another water as that of Wiandermer only that reaches 10 mile in Length, from Amblside to y^e sea, and this is but 7 such miles Long. Its full of such sort of Stones and flatts in the bottom as y^e other, neer the brimm where its Shallowe you see it Cleer to y^e bottom; this is secured on Each side by such formidable heights as those Rocky ffells in same manner as the other was. I rode the whole Length of this water by its side, sometyme a Little higher upon the side of the hill and sometyme just by the shore, and for 3 or 4 miles I Rode through a fine fforest or Parke where was deer skipping about and haires, w^{ch} by meanes of a good Greyhound I had a Little Course, but we being strangers could not so fast pursue it in the grounds full of hillocks and ffurse and soe she Escaped us. I observed the boundaries of all these great waters (which are a sort of deep Lakes or kind of standing waters) are those sort of Barren Rocky hills w^{ch} are so vastly high. I Call this a standing water because its not like other great Rivers as y^e Trent Severne, Hull or Thames &c. to appear to Run w^{th} a streame or Current, but only as it Rowles from side to side Like waves as the wind moves it; its true at the End of this being a Low fall of Ground it runs off in a Little streame. There is Exceeding good ffish here and all sorts of provision at y^e market towns. Their market town was Peroth 10 long miles. A mile or two beyond this Ullswater,—Tuesday is the market day w^{ch} was the Day I came thither. Its a Long way for y^e market people to goe but they and their horses are used to it and go w^{th} much more facility than strangers. At y^e end of this Ullswater is a fine round hill Look’d as green and full of wood very pleasant, w^{th} grass and Corne very ffruitefull, and hereabout we Leave these Desart and Barren Rocky hills, not that they are Limitted to Westmoreland only for had I gone farther to y^e Left hand into Cumberland I should have found more such, and they tell me farr worse for height and stony-nesse about White haven side and Cockermouth, so y^t tho’ both the County’s have very good land and fruitfull, so they equally partake of y^e bad, tho’ Indeed Westmoreland takes it name from its aboundings in springs which distilling itself on Lower ground, if of a spungy soile made it marshy or Lakes, and in many places very fruitfull in summer graine and grasse, but y^e northerly winds blow Cold so long on them y^t they never attempt sowing their Land with wheate or Rhye. Y^e stones and slatt about Peroth Look’d so Red y^t at my Entrance into the town thought its buildings were all of brick, but after found it to be the Coullour of the stone w^{ch} I saw in the Quarrys Look very Red, their slatt is the same w^{ch} Cover their houses. Its a pretty Large town—a good Market for Cloth that they spinn in the Country—hempe and also woollen. Its a great Market for all sorts of Cattle, meate Corne &c &c. Here are two Rivers one Called y^e Emount w^{ch} parts Cumberland and Westmoreland, w^{ch} bridge I should have passed over had I Come the direct Roade from Kendall to Peroth, but strikeing off to Ambleside to Wiandermer I came another End of y^e town. In this River are greate falls of waters Call’d Cataracts, by Reason of the Rock and shelves in it w^{ch} makes a great noise w^{ch} is heard more against foul weathers into the town, tho’ the bridge be halfe a mile out of y^e town. The other River is Called Louder w^{ch} gives name to Lord Landsdown’s house Call’d Louder hall w^{ch} is four mile from Peroth. I went to it through fine woods, the front is just faceing the great roade from Kendall and Lookes very nobly, w^{th} severall Rows of trees w^{ch} Leads to Large jron gates, open barres, into the stable yard w^{ch} is a fine building on y^e one side of y^e house very uniform, and just against it is such another Row of buildings y^e other side of y^e house Like two wings w^{ch} is the offices. Its built Each Like a fine house jutting out at Each End and y^e middle is w^{th} Pillars, white, and Carvings Like the Entrance of a building. These are just Equal and alike and Encompass the two sides of the first Court w^{ch} Enters, with Large jron gates and jron Palasadoes in the breadth, and then there is an ascent of 15 stone steps turned round, very Large, and on the top Large jron gates pallisad of jron betweene stone pillars, w^{ch} runs the breadth of the front. This Court is with paved walks of broad stone, one broad one to the house, y^e other of same breadth runs aCrosse to the stables and offices, and so there is 4 Large Squares of grass in w^{ch} there is a large Statue of Stone in the midst of Each, and 4 Little Cupids or Little Boys in Each Corner of the 4 squares. Then one ascends severall more steps to another Little Court v^{th} open Iron Railes, and this is divided Into severall grass plotts by paved walks of stone to the severall doores, some of w^{ch} are straight, others slope: the grass plotts being seven and in Each statue the middle-most is taller than the rest, this is just the front of y^e house where you Enter a porch w^{th} Pillars of Lime stone, but y^e house is y^e Red sort of stone of y^e Country. Below staires you Enter a space that Leads severall wayes to all the offices, and on one side is a Large parlour w^{ch} Lookes out on these green plotts w^{th} images. The staircase very well wanscoated and Carv’d, at y^e top you are Landed into a noble hall very Lofty, the top and sides are exquisitely painted by y^e best hand in England which did the painting at Windsor. The Top is the Gods and goddesses that are sitting at some great feast and a great tribunal before y^m; Each Corner is the seasons of the yeare w^{th} the variety of weather Raines and rainbows, stormy winds, sun shine, snow and frost with multitudes of other fancys and varietyes in painting and Looks very natural—it Cost 500^£ that roome alone. Thence into a Dineing room and drawing roome well wanscoated of oake, Large pannells plaine, no frettwork nor Carvings or Glass worke, only in Chimney pieces. 3 handsome Chambers, one scarlet Cloth strip’d and very fashionably made up, the hangings the same, another flower’d Damaske Lined with fine jndian Embroidery, the third Roome had a blew satten bed Embroider’d. In this Roome was very fine orris hangings in w^{ch} was much silk and gold and silver; a Little Roome by in w^{ch} was a green and white Damaske Canopy bed w^{ch} was hung w^{th} some of the same hangings being made for y^e Duke of Lortherdale and had his armes in many places—by his Dying were sold to Lord Landsdon.

They Containe a Scottish story of the 4 quarters of the yeare. The roomes are all well pitch’d and well ffinish’d, and many good Pictures of y^e family, and severall good fancy’s of human and animals, a good gallery so adorn’d w^{ch} Leads to a Closet that Looks into y^e Chappell; all things very neate tho’ nothing Extraord^y besides y^e hall painting. The Chimney pieces are of a dark Coull^d Marble w^{ch} is taken out of the ground just by—its well polish’d. There was some few white marble vein’d, but that is not Dug out of this Country. The house is a flatt rooffe and stands amidst a wood of Rows of trees, w^{ch} w^{th} these statues and those in two gardens on Each side (w^{ch} for their walks and plantations is not ffinish’d but full of Statues) which with the house is so well Contrived to be seen at one view. Y^e Lady Landsdown sent and treated me with a Breakfast, Cold things and sweete meates all serv’d in plaite, but it was so Early in the morning that she being jndisposed was not up. So I returned back 4 mile to Peroth and Came in sight of Severall Genteele seates or Gentlemens houses, and Came by a Round green spott of a Large Circumfference which they keep Cut round w^{th} a banke round it like a Bench; its story is that it was the table a great Giant 6 yards tall, used to Dine at, and there Entertain’d anoth^r of nine yards tall which he afterwards killed; there is the Length in the Church yard how far he Could Leape—a great many Yards. There was also on the Church at Peroth a fine Clock w^{ch} had severall motions—there was the Starrs and signes, there was the Encrease and Changes of y^e moone, by a Darke and golden side of a Little Globe. A mile from Peroth in a Low bottom and moorish place stands Mag and her sisters; the story is that these soliciting her to an unlawfull Love by an Enchantment are turned w^{th} her into stone; the stone in the middle w^{ch} is Call’d Mag is much bigger and have some fforme Like a statue or ffigure of a body, but the Rest are but soe many Craggy stones, but they affirme they Cannot be Counted twice alike as is the story of Stonidge, but the number of these are not above 30. However what the first design of placeing them there Either as a marke of y^t sort of moorish Ground or what Else, the thing is not so wonderfull as that of Stonidge, because there is noe such sort of stone in 20 miles off those downs and how they of so vast a bulk and weight should be brought thither, whereas all this Country abounds with Quarrys of stone and its mostly Rocks. The waye from thence to Carlisle over much heath where they have many stone Quarrys and Cut much peate and turff w^{ch} is their Chief fuel. Its reckon’d but 16 mile from Peroth to Carlisle, but they are pretty Long, besides my going out of y^e waye above 3 or 4 mile w^{ch} made it 20. They were very Long and I was a great while Rideing it. You pass by the Little hutts and hovels the poor Live in Like Barnes—some have them daub’d w^{th} mud-wall—others drye walls.

Carlisle stands in view at Least 4 mile distant, y^e town is walled in and all built of stone. The Cathedrall stands high and very Eminent to be seen above y^e town. You Enter over the Bridge and Double gates w^{ch} are jron grates and Lined w^{th} a Case of doores of thick timber, there are 3 gates to the town, one Called the English gate at which I entred. The other the jrish w^{ch} Leads on to Whitehaven and Cockermouth, the other y^e Scottish gate through which I went into Scotland. The walls of the town and Battlements and towers are in very good Repaire and Looks well. Y^e Cathedrall all built of stone which Looked stately but nothing Curious; there was some few houses as y^e Deans and treasurer and some of y^e Doctors houses walled in with Little gardens, their fronts Looked Gracefully; Else I saw no house Except the present Majors house of brick and stone, and one house which was y^e Chancellors built of stone very Lofty, 5 good sarshe windows in y^e front, and this within a Stone wall’d Garden well kept, and Iron gates to discover it to view with stone Pillars. Ye streetes are very broad and handsome well Pitched.

I walked round the walls and saw the River w^{ch} twists and turns itself round the grounds, Called the Emount, w^{ch} at 3 or 4 miles off is flow’d by the sea. The other River is the Essex w^{ch} is very broad and Ebbs and flows about a mile or two off. There Remaines only some of the walls and ruines of y^e Castle, w^{ch} does shew it to have been a very strong town formerly. The walls are of a prodigious thickness and vast great stones, its moated round and with draw bridges. There is a Large Market place w^{th} a good Cross and hall, and is well supply’d as I am Inform’d w^{th} provision at Easye rate, but my Landlady notwithstanding ran me up the Largest Reckoning for allmost nothing, it was y^e dearest Lodging I met with and she pretended she Could get me nothing else; so for 2 joynts of mutton and a pinte of wine and bread and beer I had a 12 shilling Reckoning, but since I find tho’ I was in the biggest house in town I was in the worst accomodation, and so found it, and a young giddy Landlady y^t Could only Dress fine and Entertain the soldiers. From hence I tooke a guide the next day and so went for Scotland and Rode 3 or 4 mile by y^e side of this River Emount w^{ch} is full of very good ffish. I Rode sometymes on a high Ridge over a hill, sometymes on the sands, it turning and winding about that I went almost all the way by it and saw them with boates fishing for Salmon and troute, w^{ch} made my journey very pleasant. Leaving this River I Came to the Essex w^{ch} is very broad and hazardous to Crosse Even when the tyde is out, by which it leaves a broad sand on Each side, which in some places is unsafe, made me take a good guide which Carry’d me aboute and a Crosse some part of it here, and some part in another place, it being Deep in y^e Channell where I did Crosse w^{ch} was in sight of y^e mouth of the river that runs into the sea. On the sand before the water was quite gone from it I saw a great bird w^{ch} Look’d almost black picking up ffish and busking in the water, it Looked like an Eagle and by its dimentions Could scarce be any other bird. Thence I went into Scotland over the river Serke which is also flowed by y^e sea, but in the Summer tyme is not soe deep but Can be pass’d over—tho’ pretty deep but narrow. It affords good ffish, but all here about w^{ch} are Called borderers seem to be very poor people w^{ch} I impute to their sloth. Scotland this part of it is a Low Marshy ground where they Cutt turff and peate for the fewell, tho’ I should apprehend y^e sea might Convey Coales to them. I see Little that they are Employ’d besides ffishing w^{ch} makes provision plentifull or Else their Cutting and Carving turff and peate, w^{ch} the women and great Girles bare legged does Lead a horse w^{ch} draws a sort of carriage, the Wheeles like a Dung-pott and hold about 4 wheele barrows. These people tho’ with naked Leggs are yet wrapp’d up in plodds, a piece of woollen Like a Blanket, or Else Rideing hoods—and this when they are in their houses. I tooke them for people w^{ch} were sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman sat hovering between their bed and Chimney corner, all jdle doing nothing or at Least was not settled to any work tho’ it was nine of the Clock when I Came thither, haveing gone 7 long miles that morning. This is a Little Market town Called Adison Bank the houses Look just Like the booths at a fair, I am sure j have been in some of them that were tollerable dwellings to these, they have no Chimneys, their smoke Comes out all over the house and there are great holes in y^e sides of their houses w^{ch} Letts out the smoake when they have been well smoaked in it. There is no Roome in their houses but is up to y^e thatch and in which are 2 or 3 beds, Even to their parlours and buttery, and notwithstanding y^e Cleaning of their parlour for me I was not able to beare the roome; the smell of the hay was a perfume and what I Rather Chose to stay and see my horses Eate their provender in the stable than to stand in y^t roome for I Could not bring my self to sit down. My Landlady offered me a good dish of ffish and brought me butter in a Lairdly Dish with the Clap bread, but I Could have no stomach to Eate any of the ffood they should order, and finding they had noe wheaten bread I told her I Could not Eate their Clapt out bread, soe I bought the ffish she got for me w^{ch} was full Cheape Enough, nine pence for two pieces of Salmon halfe a one neer a yard Long, and a very Large trout of an amber Coullour, soe drinking w^{th} out Eateing some of their wine w^{ch} was Exceeding good Claret w^{ch} they stand Conveniently for to have from France, and Indeed it was the best and truest Ffrench wine I have dranck this seven year and very Clear, I had y^e first tapping of y^e Little vessell and it was very fine. Then I went up to their Church w^{ch} Looks Rather Like some Little house built of stone and bricke such as our ordinary people in a village Live in. Y^e doores were and y^e Seates and pulpit was in so disregarded a manner that one would have thought there was no use of it, but there is a parson which Lives just by, whose house is y^e best in the place, and they are all fine folks in their Sundays Cloathes. I observe y^e Church yard is full of grave stones pretty Large with Coates of armes, and some had a Coronet on the Eschutcheons Cut in the stone. I saw but one house that Look’d Like a house about a quarter of a mile, w^{ch} was some gentlemans that was built 2 or 3 roomes and some over them of brick and stone, the rest were all Like Barns or hutts for Cattle. This is threescore miles from Edenborough and the neerest town to this place is 18 miles, and there would not have been much better entertainement or accomodation, and their miles are soe long in these Countrys made me afraid to venture, Least after a tedious journey I should not be able to get a bed I Could Lye in. It seemes there are very few towns Except Edenburough Abberdeen and Kerk w^{ch} Can give better treatement to strangers, therefore for the most part persons y^t travell there go from one Noblemans house to another. Those houses are all Kind of Castles and they Live great tho’ in so nasty a way as all things are in even those houses one has Little Stomach to Eate or use anything, as I have been told by some that has travell’d there, and I am sure I mett with a sample of it enough to discourage my progress farther in Scotland. I attribute it wholly to their sloth for I see they sitt and do Little. I think there were one or two at Last did take spinning in hand at a Lazy way. Thence I tooke my ffish to Carry it to a place for the English to dress it and repass’d the Serke and the River Essex and there I saw y^e Common people men women and Children take off their shooes, and holding up their Cloathes wade through the rivers when y^e tide was out, and truely some there were that when they Come to y^e other side put on shoes and stockings and had ffine Plodds Cast over them and their Garb seemed above y^e Common people; but this is their Constant way of travelling from one place to anoth^r—if any river to pass they make no use of Bridges and have not many. I Came to Long town w^{ch} is 3 long mile from Addison Bank and is Called a Border and Indeed is very like y^e Scotsland. Thence I Cross’d over a tedious long heath to Brampton a mile over Lime River and here I had my dinner dress’d—thence to Mucks hall 6 miles. Here I pass’d by my Lord Carletons which stands in the midst of woods. You goe through Lanes and Little sort of woods or hedge rows and many Little purling rivers or Brooks out of y^e rocks. At Muneks Hall I Cross’d such another brooke and so out of Cumberland I Entred Northumberland. This is y^e place y^e judges Dine, its a sorry place for Entertainement of such a Company; here the Sherriffs meete them, it being the Entrance of Northumberland w^{ch} is much Like the other County. This it seemes Camden relates to be a Kingdom. This I am sure of, the more I travell’d Northward the Longer I found y^e miles, I am sure these 6 miles and y^e other 6 miles to Hartwhistle might with modesty be esteemed double the Number in most of y^e Countys in England, Especially in and about 30 or 40 miles off London. I did not go 2 of those miles in an hour. Just at my Entrance into Northumberland I ascended a very steep hill of w^{ch} there are many, but one about 2 mile forward was Exceeding steep, full of great Rocks and stone—some of it along on a Row (the remainder of the Picts walls or ffortification) at y^e bottom of w^{ch} was an old Castle the walls and towers of which was mostly Standing. Its a sort of Black moorish ground and so wet I observ’d as my Man Rode up that sort of precipice or steep his horses heeles Cast up water every step, and their feete Cut deepe in, Even quite up to y^e top. Such up and down hills and sort of boggy ground it was and y^e night Drawing fast on, y^e miles so Long, that I tooke a guide to direct me to avoid those ill places. This Hartwhistle is a Little town, there was one Inn but they had noe hay nor would get none, and when my servants had got some Else where they were angry and would not Entertaine me, so I was forced to take up in a poor Cottage w^{ch} was open to y^e Thatch and no partitions but hurdles plaistered. Indeed y^e Loft as they Called it w^{ch} was over the other roomes was shelter’d but w^{th} a hurdle; here I was fforced to take up my abode and y^e Landlady brought me out her best sheetes w^{ch} serv’d to secure my own sheetes from her dirty blanckets, and Indeed I had her fine sheete to spread over y^e top of the Clothes; but noe sleepe Could I get, they burning turff and their Chimneys are sort of fflews or open tunnills, y^t y^e smoake does annoy the roomes. This is but 12 miles from another part of Scotland, the houses are but a Little better built, its true the inside of them are kept a Little better. Not far from this a Mile or two is a greate hill from which rises 3 rivers: the Teese w^{ch} is y^e border between Durham and York, y^e Ouse that runns to Yorke, and the River Tyne which runns to NewCastle and is the divider of Northumberland and Durham. This river Tyne runns 7 miles and then joyns w^{th} the other river Tyne that Comes out of Northumberland and so they run on to NewCastle. From Hartwhistle I went pretty much up hill and down and had the River Tyne much in view for 6 miles, then I cross’d over it on a Large stone bridge and so Rode by its bank or pretty much in sight of it on the other side to Hexholme 6 mile more. This is one of the best towns in Northumberland Except NewCastle, w^{ch} is one place the Sessions are kept for the shire; its built of Stone and looks very well, there are 2 gates to it, many streetes, some are pretty broad, all well pitch’d, w^{th} a spacious Market place w^{th} a town hall on the Market Crosse. Thence I went through y^e Lord Darentwaters parke just by his house w^{ch} is an old building not very Large, for 3 mile in all, to a Little village where I cross’d over the Tyne on a Long Bridge of stone w^{th} many arches. The river is in some places broader than in others, its true at this tyme of y^e yeare being Midsumer the springs are the Lowest and the Rivers shallow, and where there is any Rocks or stones Left quite bare of water.

Thence I went 4 mile along by the Tyne, the road was good hard gravelly way for the most part, but very steep up hills and down; on one of these I Rode a pretty while w^{th} a great precipice on the Right hand down to the river, it Looked hazardous, but the way was very broad. The River Looked very reffreshing and y^e Cattle Coming to its sides and into it where shallow to Coole themselves in the heate, for hitherto as I met w^{th} noe Raines, notwithstanding the great raines y^t fell the 2 dayes before I Left Woolsley, and y^e Little showers I had when I went to Hollywell I was not annoy’d w^{th} wet nor Extream heat, the Clouds being a shade to me by day and Gods good providence and protection all wayes. This after noon was the hottest day I met with but it was seasonable being in July. As I drew nearer and nearer to NewCastle I met with and saw abundance of Little Carriages w^{th} a yoke of oxen and a pair of horses together, w^{ch} is to Convey the Coales from y^e pitts to y^e Barges on the river. There is Little sort of Dung-potts. I suppose they hold not above 2 or three Chaudron. This is the sea Coale which is pretty much small Coale tho’ some is round Coales, yet none like the Cleft coales and this is what y^e smiths use and it Cakes in y^e ffire and makes a great heate, but it burns not up Light unless you put most round Coales w^{ch} will burn Light, but then its soon gone and that part of y^e Coale never Cakes, there fore y^e small sort is as good as any—if its black and shineing, that shows its goodness. This Country all about is full of this Coale, y^e sulpher of it taints y^e aire and it smells strongly to strangers,—upon a high hill 2 mile from NewCastle I could see all about the Country w^{ch} was full of Coale pitts.

New-Castle Lies in a bottom very Low, it appears from this hill a greate fflatt. I saw all by the river Tyne w^{ch} runns along to Tinmouth 5 or 6 miles off, w^{ch} Could see very plaine and y^e Scheld w^{ch} is the key or ffort at the mouth of y^e river w^{ch} disembogues itself into y^e sea; all this was in view on this high hill w^{ch} I descended—5 mile more, in all nine from that place.

NewCastle is a town and County of itself standing part in Northumberland part in y^e Bishoprick of Durham, the river Tyne being y^e division. Its a noble town tho’ in a bottom, it most resembles London of any place in England, its buildings Lofty and Large, of brick mostly or stone. The streetes are very broad and handsome and very well pitch’d, and many of them w^{th} very ffine Cunduits of water in Each allwayes running into a Large stone Cistern for Every bodyes use. There is one great streete where in y^e Market Crosse, there was one great Cunduit with two spouts w^{ch} falls into a Large ffountaine paved w^{th} stone which held at Least 2 or 3 hodsheads for the jnhabitants. There are 4 gates w^{ch} are all Double gates with a sort of Bridge between Each. The west gate w^{ch} I entred I came by a Large building of bricke within bricke walls, which is the hall for the assizes and sessions for the shire of Northumberland. This is NewCastle on y^e Tyne and is a town and County. There is a noble Building in the middle of the town all of stone for an Exchange on stone pillars severall rows. On the top is a building of a very Large hall for the judges to keep the assizes for the town; there is another roome for y^e Major and Councill and another for the jury out of the Large roome w^{ch} is the hall, and opens into a Balcony w^{ch} Looks out on y^e River and y^e Key. Its a Lofty good building of stone, very uniforme on all sides w^{th} stone pillars in the ffronts both to the streete and market place and to the waterside. There is a ffine Clock on the top just as y^e Royal Exchange has. The Key is a very ffine place and Lookes itself Like an Exchange being very broad and soe full of merchants walking to and againe, and it runs off a great Length w^{th} a great many steps down to y^e water for the Conveniency of Landing or boateing their goods, and is full of Cellars or ware houses. Ye harbour is full of shipps but none that is above 2 or 300 tun Can Come up quite to the Key: its a town of greate trade. There is one Large Church built of stone w^{th} a very high tower finely Carv’d full of spires and severall devises in the Carving—all stone. The Quire is neate as is the whole Church and Curious Carving in wood on each side the quire, and over the ffront is a great Piramidy of wood ffinely Carv’d full of spires. There was a Castle in this town but now there is noe remaines of it but some of y^e walls w^{ch} are built up in houses and soe only appears as a great hill or ascent, w^{ch} in some places is 30 or 40 steps advance to the streetes that are built on y^e higher ground where the Castle was. There was one place soe Like Snow Hill in London w^{th} a fine Conduite. Their shops are good and are of Distinct trades, not selling many things in one shop as is y^e Custom in most Country towns and Cittys; here is one market for Corne, another for Hay, besides all other things w^{ch} takes up two or three streetes. Satturday was their biggest Market day w^{ch} was the Day I was there, and by Reason of the extreame heate resolved to stay till the sun was Low ere I proceeded farther, so had the opportunity of seeing most of the Market w^{ch} is Like a ffaire for all sorts of provision, and good and very Cheape. I saw one buy a quarter of Lamb ffor 3^d and 2^d a piece: good Large poultry. Here is Leather, Woollen and Linnen and all sorts of stands for baubles. They have a very jndifferent sort of Cheese—Little things, Looks black on the outside. There is a very pleasant bowling-green, a Little walke out of the town w^{th} a Large gravel walke round it w^{th} two Rows of trees on Each side Makeing it very shady: there is a fine entertaineing house y^t makes up the ffourth side, before w^{ch} is a paved walke and Epyasses of bricke. There is a pretty Garden, by y^e side a shady walk, its a sort of spring garden where the Gentlemen and Ladyes walke in the Evening—there is a green house in the garden, its a pleasant walke to the town by y^e walls. There is one broad walke by the side of y^e town runns a good Length made w^{th} Coale ashes and so well trodden, and the raines makes it firm. There is a walke all round the walls of the town. There is a good ffree school and 5 Churches. I went to see the Barber Surgeons Hall w^{ch} was within a pretty garden walled in, full of flowers and greens In potts and in the Borders; its a good neate building of Brick. There I saw the roome w^{th} a round table in it railed round w^{th} seates or Benches for y^e Conveniency in their disecting and anatomiseing a body, and reading Lectures on all parts. There was two bodyes that had been anatomised, one the bones were fastned w^{th} wires the other had had the flesh boyled off and so some of y^e Ligeament remained and dryed w^{th} it, and so the parts were held together by its own Muscles and sinews that were dryed w^{th} it. Over this was another roome in w^{ch} was the skin of a man that was taken off after he was dead, and dressed, and so was stuff’d—the body and Limbs. It Look’d and felt Like a sort of parchment. In this roome I Could take a view of the whole town, it standing on high ground and a pretty Lofty building.

Just by is a very good Hospital for 14 widdows of tradesmen of the town, 2 good roomes a piece, a walke under a pyasse w^{th} pillars of brickwork, as is the whole building: there is a Large ffountaine or Cunduite of water for their use and an open Green before their house all walled in, its in y^e major and aldermans disposition, there is 2 or 300 pound a yeare to it, I thinke its 10 pound a piece. There is a very good fountaine belongs to it, and there is a fine bridge over the Tyne river w^{th} 9 arches all built on as London bridge is, which Enters you into Durham, and on this side of y^e Bridge are so many streets and buildings just Like Southwarke. Its a Little town but all is in the Liberty of y^e County town of New-Castle and soe Called, but its all in the Diocess of Durham. Through part of this you do ascend a greate height and steepness w^{ch} is full of Rocky stony stepps, and afterwards the hill Continues when out of y^e town till it has set you as high as on the former hill on the other side the town—w^{ch} I Entred out of Northumberland—and as that gave a Large prospect of the town and whole Country aboute on that side, soe this gives as pleasing a sight of it on this side and the whole river and shipps in the harbour. Thence I proceeded a most pleasant gravell Road on the Ridge of y^e hill and had the whole Country in view, w^{ch} seems much on a flatt to this place, tho’ there be a few Little steep up hills and descents, but the whole Country Looks Like a fruitfull woody place and seemes to Equal most Countys in England. 7 mile to Chester streete w^{ch} is a Little Market town, and I Rode neare Lumly Castle w^{ch} gives title and name to the Lord Lumly: the buildings Looke very Nobly, its in a 4 square tower running up to the top w^{th} three Round towers at the top between the windows—Lookes well—its a front the four wayes, its not finely ffurnish’d.

At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^{ch} runns to Durham, w^{ch} is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^{ch} is y^e pallace w^{th} y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^{th} a wall full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e hill w^{ch} is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the town, where is the market place w^{ch} is a spacious place, and a very ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen, and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^{th} severall arches apiece. The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^{ch} is the signes, w^{th} Chimes, and finely Carved w^{th} four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and terminates in a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly Embroider’d w^{th} the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life, Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of the parliament men, w^{ch} I had the trouble of in most of my journeys, y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.

The Castle w^{ch} is the Bishops pallace stands on a Round hill w^{ch} has severall green walks round it, w^{th} high bancks to secure them one above another, and on the top are the towers. About the Middle of the hill is a broad Grass walk railed in and enters into a Dineing roome. There are very stately good roomes, parlours, drawing roomes, and a noble Hall, but the ffurniture was not very ffine the best being taken down in the absence of my Lord Crew, who is not a Barron of England but is a great prince as being Bishop of the whole principallity off Durham, and has a great Royalty and authority, is as an absolute Prince and has a great Command as well as revenue; his Spirituall is 5 or 6000^{lb} and his temporalls since his brothers Death makes it much more. He Comes sometymes hither but for the most part Lives at another Castle w^{ch} is a noble seate about 12 mile off, which is very well ffurnish’d and ffinish’d; he is the Governour as it were of the whole province. His pallace here makes a good appearance w^{th} the severall walks one below another with rows of trees, three or four descents and y^e wall at the bottom. Just by the Castle is a place for the assizes, 2 open barrs Lookes out into what is the space the College and Doctors houses are, and there is in the Middle a very ffine Large Cunduite, the water falling into the Cistern from 4 pipes, w^{ch} gives a pleaseing sound and prospect, it being arch’d with stone, and stone pillars, and Carv’d, and alsoe a high top arch ending in a ball; its the ffinest of this kind I have seen and so I must say of the whole Citty of Durham, its the noblest—Cleane and pleasant buildings, streetes Large, well pitch’d. The market Crosse is Large, a fflatt Roofe on severall Rows of Pillars of Stone and here is a good Cundit alsoe of stone. The walks are very pleasant by the river side. I went by its banck of one end of the town to the meeteing house w^{ch} stands just by the River, there was a Company of hearers at Least 300, w^{ch} on the Consideration of its being under the Dropings of y^e Cathedrall its very well. They have a very good minister there, but its New-Castle that has the greate meeteing place and many Descenters; they have two very Eminent men one of their Name was D^r Gilpin whose book I have read in, but he not being at home Could not have the advantage of hearing him.

In the Evening I walk’d out at Durham to another part of the town, by another turn of the river along by its Banck, and the river here would meete were it not for a Ridge of a hill runs between, it in w^{ch} are buildings and ascends up a mile in Length, w^{ch} is one of the Parishes. In walking by this river we Came to S^r Charles Musgroves House w^{ch} is now old and ruinous but has been good. The Gardens are flourishing still w^{th} good walks and much ffruite of w^{ch} I tasted; its a place that is used Like our Spring Gardens for the Company of the town to walk in the Evening, and its most pleasant by the river, w^{ch} by means of severall bays or wires which is of Rock, the waters has greate falls from thence, w^{ch} adds a murmuring sound acceptable to the people passing. They have good ffish in the river but its full of rocks; they talk much of makeing it Navigeable but I ffancy the many Rocks all along in it will render it a Difficult work. I went a mile to see the spaw waters and to see a salt spring in the Rock in the middle of y^e river. In halfe a mile I came to a well w^{ch} had a stone Bason in it and an arch of stone over it; the taste was Like y^e Sweete Spaw in Yorkshire and the Tunbridge waters.

About halfe a mile farther I Came to a well w^{ch} is Like the Sulpher Spaw, taste and Looke agreeing thereto, w^{ch} is from brimstone, but its not quite soe strong for it was a Longer tyme before the silver was Changed in it. Here I went a very bad and hazardous passage full of stones Like stepps, the water trilling Down them, and a very narrow passage by the Bushes and Bancks, but when I was got in there was noe returning, so on I went to the river w^{ch} was a Large step to goe down into, and all the river full of Shelves and Rocks.

The Spring is in the Cleft of the Rocks w^{ch} stands up in the river, and soe springs up, but when much raines falls it washes down soe fast upon it that weakens the taste. From this place I came back againe a mile. Durham has about 7 Churches w^{th} the Cathedrall, its a noble place and the aire so Cleer and healthy that persons Enjoy much health and pleasure. From thence to Darlington w^{ch} is 14 pretty Long miles but good way, but by the way I Lost some of my nightCloths and Little things in a Bundle that the Guide I hired Carry’d. This is a Little Market town, the Market day was on Munday w^{ch} was the day I passed through it: it was a great Market of all things, a great quantety of Cattle of all sorts but mostly Beeves—it seemes once in a fortnight its much fuller. Two miles from Darlington I Came to the Ground the Hell Kettles are they talk much of, its in Grounds just by the road where Cattle were ffeeding, there are 2 pooles or ponds of Water the one Larger than y^e other; y^e biggest seemed to me not to be the Deepest nor is it Esteem’d soe deep; there was some sedge or flaggs growing round that, but y^e fathermost w^{ch} was not soe bigg Looked a Cross that had noe flaggs or sedge on its bancks but yet it Look’d to me to Cast a green hew, Roleing waves of the water just in Coullour as the sea, and as the wind moved the water it very much resembled the sea, but the water when taken up in y^e hand Look’d White and y^e taste was not the Least brackish but fresh. My Conception of the Cause of y^e greenish Coullour was from the greate depth of water, for the reason they Call them Hell Kettles is that there is noe sounding a bottom, w^{ch} has been try’d by plumet and Line severall ffathoms down; the water is Cold and as any other water when took up, it seemes not to Decrease in a tyme of Drought nor to advance w^{th} great raines, it draines itself insensibly into y^e ground.

This Leads me the ffarthest way to Richmond it being but 8 mile the ready Road from Darlington to Richmond, but this way it was 10 miles and very tedious miles. Three miles off Darlington I passed over Crafton Bridge which Crosses y^e river Teese which Divides Durham ffrom Yorkshire, and soe Entred the North Rideing of Yorkshire in which is that they Call Richmondshire a shire of 30 miles. The way was good but Long, I went through Lanes and woods an Enclosed Country; I passed by a house of S^r Mark Melborn on a hill, a Brick building and severall towers on the top, good gardens and severall rows of trees up to the house, it standing on a hill, y^e trees Runns along on y^e Ridge of y^e same—Looks very finely.