Chapter VI: Part 6

There are two large jsles in y^e middle of the Church w^{ch} leads to open gates of jron barrs and spikes, thence is an ascent of 20 steps, as Winchester Church is; up to y^e Quire, where is a fine Large organ, so is the ffont well Carv’d and painted and Gilded, the bottom is white and grey Marble w^{th} white marble statues round the stem to the ffoote, the top is made in a piramidy Carv’d and painted. The Windows in y^e Quire are most delicately painted as Ever I saw, y^e Curiosity of the worke and Coullours beyond others, but the size of the windows much Inferior being very small for a Church. Y^e Glass is very thick and the Coullours Laid on it strikes through the glass, its Coullours tinctures all y^e Glass, an art w^{ch} now is lost amongst us. At y^e Alter is a Cloth and Coushons of purple ffigured Velvet the books the same, there is a broad tissue border of orrace work gold and silver, and at y^e Edge is a ffine knotted fringe of purple silk and gold. The Bishops seate and Cushon the same w^{ch} was given by our good Queen Mary King Williams Queen when she was at Canterbery. The Chapter house is pretty Lofty supported by its own worke w^{th} out pillars, its Ceiled with Irish oake, there are severall good monuments of y^e Kings and queens and great men and severall Bishops. There is one Bishops statue y^t was at y^e paines to divide the Bible into Chapters w^{ch} makes it more Commodious to the Reader, and was a good Employment for him it being the proper subject of such a person of y^e Church to studdy y^e holy Scriptures w^{ch} gives the truest wisdom. There is the Chaire that all y^e Arch Bishops are Inaugurated in when made Arch Bishops, its wood with Elbows. There is another statue of a Bishop Cut out in wood, his Robes and all well Carv’d and is ffirm and solid still, Except some small deffaceing by y^e soldiers in y^e warre tyme, and this has stood some 100 of yeares. There is a Chapple Called Thomas of Beckets Crown, the Roofe being Carv’d in the fform of a Crown and painted; there is also a pavement w^{ch} is much worne by the feete and knees off this S^{ts} votarys that Came to do obeysance to his Shrine. There is one Brass statue in armour but its not so bright being less regarded than that at Warwick. Under the Cathedrall is a Large Church just Like S^t Ffaiths under S^t Pauls in London; this is given to the Ffrench protestants in the town for the worshipping God, it holds a vast number of people, its as full of Seates as Can thrust by Each other, it seemed a Little darkish, but they say when the doores are open its Light Enough, its so well arch’d that they Cannot hear them in the Cathedrall when singing—at least no wayes to disturb them. I went out another part of the town thro’ a good gate and so to Dover 15 mile much up hill and down, it was a good Road and Sort of Champion Country, yet at a distance you see many good woods and pretty houses w^{th} Rows of trees. The Castle at Dover is discover’d five mile off standing on the Edge of a very steep hill on w^{ch} you ascend up to y^e tower 120 steps up, whence you discover Callice in Ffrance. I saw the Clifts and hills plaine, but in some Cleer dayes towards the Evening you may see the towers and buildings of Callice, you likewise see a vast way on all sides sea ward and to y^e Land. The Castle is Left much to decay and ruinated only a small appartment for the Governour of three or four Roomes, Else y^e whole is spoyl’d the floores taken up and wanscoate pulled down. I was in the roome Queen Elizabeth was kept prisoner in till the death of queen Mary, the balcony just by in w^{ch} she saw the messenger Coming which she supposed was of Death to take off her head, but proved the Messenger that brought y^e news of the Crown and Kingdom falling to her by the death of her sister. She afterwards repaired the Chapple but now its quite out of use, the Roofe and side being Mouldred down in many places. There is a fine dry well in y^e Castle walled Curiously of a vast depth, the use of it was to Discover the work of the miners in tyme of a siege whereabout they were at worke, going down into this well discovered y^e working by y^e shakeing y^e Earth at what side they were at worke, and so might defeate them by a Countermine. There is also a great well of 60 ffathom deep, the water is drawn up by a great wheele with a horse, notwithstanding its so deep yet its also wide and Exactly down Right, that I could see the water at the top, and when I flung a stone w^{ch} was a pretty while descending I saw when it plashed into y^e water. There is on y^e Plattform guns mounted w^{ch} being so high Commands the Road so as no ship Durst saile under it. Its a mighty steep Clift at the poynt which makes ones head Giddy to Look down to the sea. There is one Gun of Cast Brass of a Great Length finely Carv’d and adorn’d with ffigures, this Carrys a Ball a great way tho’ y^e bore or muzzle of y^e Gun be not bigger than my fist, so the Ball its Charged with Cannot be very bigg but it will do Execution a great way off; this was made at Utriche in Holland and presented to Queen Elizabeth; its worth a great sum of money for its Curiosity. There is a Little Cannon of y^e same worke w^{ch} I have seen in y^e Tower at London, there is a great Inscription on it. There are Gunns also planted in a Little ffort at y^e ffoote of this steepe Clift to secure y^e Road from Pirates, for as to Dover town it Looks like a place of no deffence, its a Little place, y^e houses are Little and looks thrust together, there is a market house and town hall, its well enough for the accomodation of the seamen and to Supply the shipps w^{th} anything, it seems where the town stands the sea formerly Came in and was Cover’d under water severall fathom deep so as the shipps Ride there in harbour. The town was only within the Limits of a wall w^{ch} Encompass’s y^e Castle of which small matters appears, only of a great Banck and some parts of y^e Ruines of y^e ffoundation, but y^e sea Leaving the shore so ffarre they have built this town w^{ch} has no gates.

Thence we went to Deale 7 mile, all by the sea side w^{ch} is Called the Downs w^{ch} sometymes is full of shipps all along the Road, but now there were not many. The Downes seems to be so open a place and the shoar so Easye for Landing I should think it no difficulty to Land a good army of men in a little tyme, there is only 3 Little fforts, or Castles they Call them, about a miles distance one to another—Warworth at Deal, and Sandwitch which holds a few Guns, but I should think they would be of Little Effect and give the Enemy no great trouble. Deale Looks like a good thriveing place, y^e buildings new and neate Brickwork with gardens. I believe they are most masters of shipps houses and seamen or Else those that belong to y^e Cordage and Saile makeing with other Requisites to shipping. All this Country about seemes to be a very fruitfull soyle and full of woods. You see a many pretty towns altogether almost, neate Churches and towers all the way you travell from Dover to Deale on y^r Left hand, but beyond Deale you go a very deepe heavy sand for 4 mile to Sandwich. You go along by y^e Sea side in sight of the jsle of Thannet w^{ch} is just over against Sandwich and is so near it you see y^e Lands and jnclosures and woods and houses. I suppose it not a quarter of a League from Sandwich; this is a sad old town all timber building, you Enter by a gate and so you go out of it by a gate, but its run so to Decay that Except one or two good houses its just like to Drop down y^e whole town.

Thence to Canterbery ten mile most thro’ Lanes. We come by my Lord Winchelseas house, garden and parke. Y^e house is an old building—and so I Entered Canterbery another way through another gate and observ’d all wayes to y^e town—being from hills gives the prospect of y^e town very finely to the Eye and Indeed it Lookes like a good Citty altogether which way Ever you Looke on it in the approach. From thence to Maidstone I went 9 mile back the way I Came, and on the hill 6 mile off w^{ch} gave me so fine a sight of Canterbery as I came, did Likewise present a pleaseing prospect as I returned; it being a very high hill Commands the view of the Country a vast way and w^{th} such variety of woods rivers and Inclosures and buildings that was very delicate and diverting. When I turned off the road to Maidstone I travell’d through Lanes and woods w^{ch} were very ffine but hid y^e sight of the Country about being so Close; y^t it was y^e privatest Road I have travell’d. About 10 mile short of Maidstone you ascend a very steep hill w^{ch} discovers the whole Country at one view 40 mile off backward from whence we Came; and a few paces on the top of y^e hill the descent of the hill on that other side is so great a fall that gives you as full a discovery of the Country all forward, both w^{ch} shew the variety of grounds intermixt w^{th} Each other, and Lesser hills and plaines and Rivers w^{ch} such advanced grounds present y^e travellers at one view; this is Called Boxlye hills and is part of the same Ridge of hills w^{ch} runs along by Epsome.

From Canterbery its 30 mile to Maidstone. Maidstone town is a very neate market town as you shall see in the Country, its buildings are mostly of timber worke, the streetes are Large. The Market Cross runs down in the middle of the greate streete a good way, there being three divisions in it, one good Cross for fruite, another for Corne, and another for all sorts of things, 2 of which is built over for the town hall and publick use. There is also a Large Gail. This streete notwithstanding the hall and Cross stands in the midst, is yet a good breadth on Each side and when it Comes to meete in one, is very broad and runs down a great Length quite to the bridge Cross the Medway which is not very broad here, yet it beares Barges that bring up burdens to the town: it seemes to divide the town for beyond the Bridge are buildings, whole streetes w^{ch} runs along y^e river. There are very pretty houses about the town, looks like the habitation of Rich men. I believe its a wealthy place, there are severall pretty streetes. This was Market day being Thursday and it seemed to be well furnish’d w^{th} all sorts of Commodityes and I observed there was great quantety’s of Leather but Could not Learn what particular thing that was their staple Comodity or tradeing in, but in Generall it seemed to be like a Little faire for the variety of wares tho’ they told me that was not so full a Market as some dayes because the Country people were taken up aboute their hopping so Could not bring things to Market. Thence to Rochester 8 mile, I came by a great many ffine hopp yards where they were at work pulling y^e hopps. I came into Rochester at the other side, thro’ the wood on the hill I mentioned before, from whence the town and y^e dock yards washed by the Medway, with the shipps at anchor was as acceptable a prospect and diverting as was y^e other on the other side. I went through y^e town just by the great Church w^{ch} is a good building but nothing Curious: also I went by y^e Castle wall w^{ch} is but small what remaines of it; thence over the ffine bridge, and as I travell’d all along in sight of the Medway to Rochester, so Next day I went in sight of the Thames. I went that night to Gravesend w^{ch} is all by the side of Cherry grounds that are of severall acres of ground, and Runs quite down to the Thames w^{ch} is Convenient for to Convey the Cherrys to London, for here the Great produce of that fruite is w^{ch} supplyes y^e town and Country with y^e Kentish Cherrys, a good sort Fflemish fruite. I went 2 mile beyond Gravesend w^{ch} made it in miles 9 from Rochester, to a Little place Called Northfleete, its much in the woods. Thence I went to Dartfford 6 mile a little neate town; thence to Shutershill 2 mile on the top of w^{ch} hill you see a vast prospect Exactly Round it, being a great height of ground and such a descent Every way that Commands the sight of a vast tract of ground, w^{ch} appeares in y^e greatest variety—some Lands Clothed w^{th} trees, others with grass and flowers, gardens orchards w^{th} all sorts of Herbage and tillage, w^{th} y^e severall Little towns all by y^e river Eariff, Leigh, Woolwich &c, quite up to London, Greenwitch, Deadford, Blackwall—the Thames twisting and turning itself up and down bearing severall vessells and men of warre on it, and some under saile. On this part of the River I have seen 100 saile of shipps pass by in a morning which is one of the finest sights that is; added to this you view all Blackheath, the kings parke att Greenwitch, and a vast Country on y^t side, besides y^e places whence I came by: turning about I Could view at Least 20 mile. This is Esteemed as a noted Robbing place; on this hill are severall springs of water w^{ch} Comes from Allum which are very quick purges much Like Epsome and Dullage, but I thinke farre Exceeds Either in strength and opperation. Thence to Greenwitch 2 mile where I ferry’d over, and observ’d one Little shipp passed by me w^{ch} I observ’d was farr behind me in y^e morning at Gravesend and sailed along in sight all the tyme and was gotten before me. I fferry’d to Popler and Stepney, so to Hackney 3 mile, thence to Tatnum 2 mile, thence to Endfield 5 miles, w^{ch} is all in Middlesex Ever since I fferryed over out of Kent. Thence to Amwellbery 10 mile in Hartfordshire w^{ch} I Compleated in 5 days, and went 184 miles, w^{ch} added to severall journeys I went in Hartfordshire and twice to Amwell and to London againe w^{ch} is 76 mile done, and y^e severall journeys at London and in Hartfordshire, Comes to 150 more miles besides the Little Rideings to take y^e aire at the parke or Else, w^{ch} were severall miles more if added together w^{ch} I have gone this year: but w^{th}out that it is 226 miles, so add these to my Northern journey this yeare makes about 1045 miles of which I did not go above a hundred in the Coach.

I being in Kent this year shall Insert something of Tunbridge. The waters I have dranke many years w^{th} great advantage—they are from the Steele and Iron mines, very quick springs Especially one well. There are two w^{th} Large basons of stone fixt in y^e Earth w^{th} severall holes in the bottom by w^{ch} the springs bubble up and fill it so as it alwayes runns over, notwithstanding the quantety dipp’d up in a morning which is the usual tyme the Company Comes, and the nearer they drink it the spring y^e better, it being a spiriteous water that is ready to Evaporate if Carry’d any way, as has been try’d by weighing the water by the well and Carrying them but to y^e middle of the walks, it has Lost of y^e weight, and much more the End of the whole walke: notwithstanding many has it brought to their Lodgings a mile or two off and drink them in their beds, nay, some have them brought to London w^{ch} is near 40 miles. They have the bottles filled and corked in the well under the Water and so seale down the Corks w^{ch} they say preserves it. They have made the wells very Comodious by the many good buildings all about it and 2 or 3 mile round which are Lodgings for the Company that drinke ye waters, and they have Encreased their buildings so much that makes them very Cheape. All people buy their own provision at y^e market w^{ch} is just by y^e wells and furnish’d w^{th} great plenty of all sorts. Flesh, fowle and fish and in great plenty is brought from Rhye and Deale &c, this being y^e road to London, so all the season the water is drank they stop here w^{ch} makes it very Cheape, as also the Country people Come w^{th} all their backyard and barne door affords to supply them with, and their gardens and orchards, w^{ch} makes y^e markets well stored and provision Cheape, w^{ch} the Gentry takes as a diversion while drinking the waters to go and buy their dinners; it being Every day’s market and runns the whole Length of y^e walke, w^{ch} is between high trees on the market side for shade, and secured w^{th} a Row of buildings on y^e Right side, w^{ch} are shopps full of all sorts of toys, silver China, milliners and all sorts of Curious wooden ware w^{ch} this place is noted for, (the delicate neate and thin ware of wood both white and Lignum vitæ wood): besides w^{ch} there are two Large Coffee houses for tea, Chocolate &c, and two Roomes for y^e Lottery and hazard board. These are all built w^{th} an arch or pent house beyond y^e shops, some of w^{ch} are supported by pillars like a peason, w^{ch} is paved w^{th} brick and stone for y^e drye walking of ye Company in raine; Else they walke w^{th} out w^{ch} is a Clay and sand mixt together. They have been intending to make it gravell w^{ch} would be much better. All those Conveniency’s are added by y^e Companyes Contributions Every year—what has been and so what will be. There is at y^e Lower End of the walke, w^{ch} is a broad space before you Come to y^e walls of y^e wells, a Large sun-dial set upon severall steps of stone, thence you go straight along to a Chapple w^{ch} has been built by ye severall Collections of ye Company Every year; its a pretty place and Cost a great deal of money, and Every year there is Contribution for ye maintenance of a minister. There are severall buildings just about ye well where are severall apothecary’s shops, there is also a Room for ye post house. The post Comes Every day and returns Every day all the while the season of drinking ye waters is, from London and to it; Except Mondayes none Comes down from London, so on Satturdayes non goes up to London. You pay a penny Extraordinary for being brought from tunbridge town w^{ch} is 4 mile distance, that being a post town, you Likewise have the Conveniency of Coaches every day from London for 8 shillings apiece dureing the whole season, and Carriers twice a weeke.

There are severall bowling greens about y^e wells, one just at it on Mount Sion and another up y^e hill Called Mount Ephraim where is also a Large Chapple where the presbiterians have preaching: they have a minister w^{ch} by y^e Collections of y^e Company is also maintained all the winter to preach, as is the publick Chapple at the walks. There is severall other Bowling greens at a distance off a mile or two, fitted for Companys Lodging there, as Rust hall and Southbourough; they have all houses to y^e greens, so the Gentlemen Bowle, the Ladies dance or walke in y^e green in y^e afternoones, and if wet dance in the houses, there being Musick maintained by the Company to play in the morning so long while they drink the waters, and in y^e afternoon for danceing.

There are severall good taverns at the walks and all about to supply good wine and Brewhouses for beer and Bakers for Bread, but some of them Come from London and spoyle the market by raiseing y^e price—so the higlers and Hucksters in a great measure. This whole Country is full of stone and jron, the Earth is Clay and Sand. About 3 mile off there is a good seate of the Lord Lesters Spenshurst w^{ch} stands in a very good parke; the house is but old—Large roomes and stone staires and windows, a good hall and gallery full of good old pictures, and other roomes of state; no ffurniture but old tapistry hangings. You have a most pleasant prospect as you go to it and from it, of valeys Cover’d with woods of great Length, and hills beyond on the other side. About 3 or 4 miles off is a seate of the Lord Abergauneys w^{ch} is Lord of the manour in a parke and fine woods all about it, the most of the Country is woody. There is 4 or 5 miles off a place they Cast Gunns, there being a great store of oare all over the Country: its a great Charge and Continuall attendance. When they have Lighted y^e fire for to Cast bells or guns they must be Cautiously blowing, and y^e mettle will be apt to fall down on the nose of y^e bellows and harden; that if it be not still Cleared off would quickly damm up the fire and put it out. There are severall good houses all about and a pleasant place to Ride in in y^e summer and dry weather, but a sad deep impassable Road when much Raine has fallen. As I was Rideing about I took a view of y^e Country in many parts. There is a Little rivulet just by the wells w^{ch} divides y^e Countys so that y^e buildings are some in Kent some in Sussex.

About ffaint 4 or 5 mile off is a house of Lord Abergauny and parkes and much woods about it. Another way by Lakington Green and Groombridge about 4 mile off is an old house in a parck, pretty Large, Called Ashurst w^{ch} they say belonged to Alderman Ashurst family, but hurst w^{ch} signifyes grove or wood is a name all here about, as Spenshurst Lord Lesters house 4 mile another way in a good Parke and Speldhurst another parish 2 or 3 mile off and Goodhurst about 12 mile off the Wells. I went by Calvery plaine and Woods gate and so to a Little Market town Called Branklye; the way is much thro’ Lanes, being an Enclosed Country for the most part, w^{ch} is the Cause of these names as is much of Sussex w^{ch} joyns to Kent; there are places Called Billingshurst and Medhurst and Pendhurst &c. This Goodhurst I went to stands on a great hill and is seen severall miles, 2 mile from y^e first ascent w^{ch} is at a Little village belonging to it, and to y^e top of y^e hill w^{ch} is y^e middle of y^e place. Its a pretty Large place—old timber houses, but y^e Extent of y^e parish is neare ten miles. They are a sort of yeomanry Gentry, about 2 or 3 or 400£ a year and Eate and drink well and Live Comfortably and Hospitably.

The old proverb was a yeoman of Kent w^{th} one years rent Could buy out y^e Gentlemen of Wales and knight of Sscales and a Lord of y^e North Country—his Estate was so much better. All in these parts are the same Minerall waters being much on Iron mines. I returned againe to tunbridge wells the 12 mile, then I went from thence to Sumerhill about 4 or 5 mile off, thro’ much woods and lanes and some pleasant shades of Lofty trees. This is a seate of y^e last viscount Purbecks—stands on a hill in a good Large parke, built of stone and Lookes in good repaire for y^e most part, and good Large Roomes and Staircases and abundance of good sizeable Roomes Leading one out of another in visto’s thro’ the house, something Like our new way of building and Lofty Enough. Its Capable of being very fine w^{th} visto’s of walks Cut through and across a great many, which delights the Rider or walker being so shady w^{th} Lofty trees. There is remains of a bowling green w^{ch} is an advanced piece of ground above all the rest and discovers the Country a great Circuite round; then we returned to the wells againe 5 mile.

Then I went from y^e wells to Rye 31 miles, by Ambursly 8 mile—this was good way being a drye summer, otherwise its deep being Clay for y^e most part. I passed much through Lanes and little villages and near Rye I went thro’ a Comon full of Bushes and ffurze and heath; its a pretty steep hill I ascended w^{ch} is Called beggars hill and being Bartholomew tide here was a faire w^{ch} was Rightly Called beggarhill faire being the saddest faire I ever saw—ragged tatter’d Booths and people—but the musick and danceing Could not be omitted. This hill on the top gave the view of y^e sea and a great tract of Land on Each side. That is Choak’d up w^{th} sand w^{ch} formerly was a good haven for shipps; the sea does still Come up to Rhye town as yet but its shallow, and y^e Castle w^{ch} stands a Little distance—a mile—is also left of the sea at least 4 mile. This is Winchelsea Castle but all between it and Winchelsea is nothing but Quagmire and marshes, drained in some places by ditches, and this is at Least 4 miles to the town. I did go to it but first fferry’d over a Little arm of the sea w^{ch} still finds a Current up to some of y^e Land between Rhye and Winchelsea, then I rode round y^e marshes on y^e side of a hill in narrow foote paths, and passed over a Bridge Cross another Little arme of y^e sea: near it is a gate on y^e Bridge and Enters you into the Libertys of y^e town w^{ch} stands on a pretty high hill. From it Lookes not of any great Circuite of ground by y^e first view, being high, but in y^e middle you see it has been a fine place for there were 36 Large Squares of building, the remaines of pieces of walls in most places you see, or else a hedge supplys that you see y^e streetes were very broad and long and divided these squares, ye Cross streetes y^e same. I rode up a middle streete and saw y^e others run aCross of Equal breadth. Remaines of Churches and halls are to be seen but Else grass grows now where Winchelsea was as was once said of Troy. There are but a very few houses now, but y^e Corporation still Continues and y^e major and aldermen w^{ch} 13 makes most of y^e Inhabitants. M^r Majors house Look’d neate as did y^e parsonage. They Elect two Burgesses to it in y^e parliament and its y^e ancientest Corporation in England, so y^t should Lord Major of London meete M^r Major of Winchelsea he must give him place: it was as flourishing place before the sea Left it that was in England, but now lost, as Rhye will be in a Little tyme if the sea Leaves it, w^{ch} is in a very faire way to do; and men now apply to quite Drane the marshes for Corn and grass Rather than Endeavour to Cleare y^e Channell of the sand w^{ch} if it were done would be y^e best harbour for shipps as formerly was. There are great vaults in Winchelsea w^{ch} was the merchants Cellars, and were houses.

There was some few brass and marble statues in the Church but much demolished as was y^e Church. Rhye town is not very bigg—a little Market place—this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle and Dorea and all sort of sea fish Comes to supply y^e wells and London, but I could get little. Y^e faire took up y^e ffishermen. Indeed here I dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good and then returned to y^e wells 38 miles. In the Road from thence to London you go either by Fair lane and so Come just by S^r Harry Vaines house (now Lord Barnett), w^{ch} Lookes very finely w^{th} y^e Rows of trees about it, or Else you go by Sevenoake a sad deep Clay way after wett. You Come in sight of a great house on a hill Called Summerly, looks like a Little town it runs on so much ground, it was the Lord Purbeckes.

You also Come in sight of Nonsuch w^{ch} was a great house of the Kings Built by Charles the Second. You pass on to the Riverhead as they Call it, a fine spring of Cleare water y^t runs thence in a Little River. is at the foote of a great hill Called Madam Scott hill so steepe as seldome is Either Rode down or up, and few Coaches but gaines the top of it by a Compass round it w^{ch} is steep Enough. This is 15 mile from the wells—thence to Ffarnburough: about 8 mile, thence to Brumley, and to London 15 more.

_MY GREAT JOURNEY TO NEWCASTLE
AND TO CORNWALL_,

the account of many journeys into most parts of England, what observation and distance of one place to another in my travels.

Ffrom London to Albins in Essex 17 mile S^r Robert abdys, Whose house stands very pleasantly in a parke full of deer. The house on an advanced ground appeares to view at y^e Entrance, but its old building: Large Roomes—some Rows of trees Lead up to it. Thence I returned home 17 mile more, from London to Bednal-green twice, and back againe 16 mile, from London to Highgate 4 miles to M^r Thomas’s house, where is a most exact garden w^{th} all sorts of greens and flowers and fish ponds. There my Nephew Ffiennes Harrison w^{th} M^r Showers went to fish w^{th} me. Thence we went to Hampstead, so made it 5 mile home againe. I went from London twice and back againe from Kensington, in all 8 mile—this I put in only to know the number of miles y^t I went in one yeare.

Ffrom London to Amwell bery w^{ch} is in Hartfordshire 19 mile, where I staid a day or two: thence to Bishopstafford in Essex 13 mile, thence to Dunmew 8 long miles thro’ severall Little villages; its very deep way Especially after raine. This is a Little Market town: they are altogether taken up about the spinning and prepareing for the Bayes. All along between that and Colchester you pass but halfe a mile Ere one Comes to two or 3 houses all along the road; its from Dunmow to Colchester 22 miles and mostly Clay deep way. Colchester is a Large town in the Compass of Ground. Fformerly there was 16 Churches tho’ now much of it is ruinated. A mile before you Come to the new town one Enters a little village which still is in the Limits of y^e Citty and Majors jurisdiction; there is a pretty good house of y^e Lord Lucas.

You Enter the town by a gate; there are 4 in all; there is a Large Streete w^{ch} runs a great Length down to the bridge, near a mile long: about the middle of it runs another broad streete and near its Length like stalls on purpose to Lay their Bayes when exposed to saile. Great quantetyes are made here and sent in Bales to London that is 44 miles distant. Y^e whole town is Employ’d in spinning weaveing, washing drying and dressing their Bayes in w^{ch} they seeme very Industrious. There I saw y^e Card they use to Comb and dress the Bayes, w^{ch} they Call y^m testles, w^{ch} are a kind of Rush tops or something Like them w^{ch} they put in frames or Laths of wood. The town Looks Like a thriveing place by the substantiall houses and well pitched streetes w^{ch} are broad Enough for two Coaches to go a breast, besides a pitch’d walke on Either side by y^e houses secured by stumps of wood, and is Convenient for 3 to walke together. Their buildings are of timber of Loame and Lathes and much tileing: the fashion of the Country runs much in Long Roofes and great Cantilivers and peakes. Out of these great streetes runs many Little streetes, but not very narrow—mostly old buildings Except a few houses builded by some Quakers, y^t are brick and of the London mode. The town did Extend itself to the sea but now its ruines sets it 3 mile off. Y^e low Grounds all about y^e town are used for y^e whitening their Bayes for w^{ch} this town is remarkable, and also for Exceeding good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye my Curiosity to Eate them on y^e place I paid dear. Its a town full of Dessenters, 2 meeteings very full besides anabaptists and quakers. Formerly the famous M^r Stockton was minister there till he Dyed. From Colchester to jpswitch is 10 mile, and thence to Dedom 9 miles, the way pretty good Except 4 or 5 miles they Call y^e severalls, a sort of deep moore Ground and woody. At this place I passed over a wooden bridge, pretty Large, w^{th} timber railes of w^{ch} make they build their bridges in these parts; and now I go into Suffolk w^{ch} is not so rich Land as y^e part of Essex I passed through, w^{ch} was meadows and grounds w^{th} great burdens of grass and Corn. So I went to jpswitch 9 mile more; this is a very Clean town and much bigger than Colchester is now. Ipswitch has 12 Churches, their streetes of a good size well pitch’d w^{th} small stones; a good market Cross railed in. I was there on Satturday w^{ch} is their market day and saw they sold their Butter by y^e pinte 20 ounces for 6 pence and often for 5^d or 4^d; they make it up in a mold just in the shape of a pinte pot and so sell it. Their Market Cross has good Carving, y^e ffigure of justice Carv’d and Gilt. There is but 3 or 4 good houses in y^e town—y^e rest is much Like y^e Colchester buildings, but it seems more shatter’d, and Indeed the town Looks a Little disregarded, and by Enquiry found it to be thro’ pride and sloth, for tho’ the sea would bear a ship of 300 tun up quite to y^e Key, and y^e ships of y^e first Rate Can Ride w^{th} in two mile of the town, yet they make no advantage thereof by any sort of manufacture, w^{ch} they might do as well as Colchester and Norwitch, so that y^e shipps that brings their Coales goes Light away, neither do they address themselves to victual or provide for shipps. They have a Little dock where formerly they built ships of 2 or 3 tun, but now Little or Nothing is minded save a Little ffishing for y^e supply of y^e town. There is one pretty good house of y^e Earle of Herrifords that marry’d one of M^r Norborns Daughters, that was Killed by S^r Tho: Montgomery. You Enter thro’ two Courts walled and divided by a breast wall on w^{ch} are Iron spikes pallasadoes: the Middle is a broad gravell walk fenced in w^{th} stone walls; on Each side 3 or 4 steps up into the other Court, and so many steps more thro’ an arch into a third Court. This arch joyns a Low building w^{ch} are the offices Leaded on the top, and rail’d round, and Each End Enters into Chambers joyning to y^e house, that is built round this Last Court from whence you Enter y^e porch. The house is handsome all brick worke and brick pillars; a good hall, parlour, and drawing roome, and Large Closet, 2 or 3 other Roomes less, answereing it and a Billyard Roome above w^{th} as many roomes of state all ffurnish’d w^{th} good old things: a pretty staircase, but its all Little. There are 3 gardens on the one side w^{th} grass and gravell walkes all kept neate, and good fruite; on the other side is one Large garden w^{th} a sumer house in w^{ch} stands a Large statue, black, of a Gigantick form and proportion; this answeres the fine green house on y^e other side. This town has many dessenters in it. Thence I went to Woodbridge 7 miles mostly Lanes, Enclosed Countrys. This is a Little Market town but has a great meeting for y^e dessenters. Thence to Wickham 5 mile more but these are all very Long miles.

Thence to Saxmunday 8 miles more: this is a pretty bigg market town. The wayes are pretty deep, mostly Lanes very Little Commons. I pass’d by severall Gentlemens seates, one, M^r Dormers w^{ch} stands in a fine parke. Y^e Entrance from y^e Road thro’ rows of trees Discover’d the front and building very finely to view, being built w^{th} stone and Brick and many sashes: Lookes like a new house w^{th} y^e open jron barr gates between pillars of stone the breadth of y^e house. So to Bathfort 8 miles where is the remaines of y^e walls of an abby and there is still a very fine Church all Carv’d in stone hollow work one tire above another to y^e tower that ascends not very high but finely Carv’d: also hence I descended with Low^r grounds banck’d on Each side w^{th} a brick wall, but Low and so a walk on it for foote people, and severall arches here and there to draine off the water, so that those bancks are to secure the Road from the Marshy ffenny water that of a great Extent on both sides is subject to. Thence I passed by some woods and Little villages of a few scattered houses, and Generally y^e people here are able to give so bad a Direction that passengers are at a loss what aime to take: they know scarce 3 mile from their home, and meete them where you will and Enquire how farre to such a place they mind not where they are then, but tell you so farre, w^{ch} is the distance from their own houses to y^t place. I saw at a distance as I descended some of their hills a Large place that Look’d nobly and stood very high Like a Large town. They told me it was called Either Stowle or Nole I cannot tell w^{ch}. I Rode in sight of S^t Georges Channell In the way from Colchester and Ipswitch and so to Norwich. Sometymes it was in view then Lost againe. To Beckle is 8 mile more w^{ch} in all was 36 miles from Ipswitch, but Exceeding Long miles; they do own they are 41 measured miles. This is a Little market town but its the third biggest town in y^e County of Suffolke—Ipswitch Berry and this. Here was a good big meeteing place at Least 400 hearers and they have a very good minister one M^r Killinghall; he is but a young man but seemed very serious. I was there y^e Lords day. S^r Robert Rich is a great supporter of them and Contributed to y^e building the meeteing place w^{ch} is very neate. He has a good house at y^e End of the town w^{th} fine gardens. There are no good buildings the town, being old timber and plaister work Except his and one or two more. There is a pretty bigg market Cross, and a great Market kept. There is a handsome stone built Church and a very good publick minister whose name is Armstrong: he preaches very well they say notwithstanding the town is a sad Jacobitish town. This Chooses no parliam^t men. At y^e towns End one passes over the river Waveny on a wooden bridg railed w^{th} timber and so you Enter into Norfolk: its a Low flatt ground all here about, so that the Least raines they are overflowed by y^e River and Lye under water as they did when I was there, so that the roade Lay under water w^{ch} is very unsafe for strangers to pass by reason of y^e holes and quicksands and Loose bottom. The ordinary people both in Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and spin, some w^{th} y^e Rock and fusoe as the French does, others at their wheeles out in the streete and Lanes as one passes. Its from this town to Norwitch 12 miles, and its 10 to Yarmouth where they build some small shipps, and is a harbour for them and where they victual them. Also Harwitch about 12 or 14 miles also, but the miles are here as long again as about London and pretty deep way, Especially after raines: these miles are much Longer than most miles in Yorkshire.

Norwitch opens to view a mile distance by the help of a hill whereon is a little village. As I observe most of y^e great towns and Cittys have about them Little villages as attendants or appendix’s to them w^{ch} are a sort of Subburbs, there being stragling houses for y^e most part all the way between y^t and y^e gates. You pass over a high bridge y^t leads on over a high Causey of a pretty Length w^{ch} Lookes somewhat dangerous being fenced with trenches from its bancks (pretty deep) that’s on both sides to secure it from the water, and these trenches runns in many places round the Low grounds to drain them, w^{ch} Employ’d to whiten and Bleach their woollen stuff the manufacture of the place. This Long Causey brings you to the Large stone bridge over the river into w^{ch} those trenches Empty themselves.

Then you proceed to the Citty w^{ch} is walled round full of towers Except on the river side w^{ch} serves for the wall. They seeme y^e best in repaire of any walled Citty I know tho’ in some places there are little breaches, but the Carving and battlements and towers Lookes well. I enter’d the west gate. There are 12 gates in all and 36 Churches, which is to be seen in a Clear Day altogether on the Castle walls—I told 30 myself there. They are built all of flints well headed or Cut w^{ch} makes them Look blackish and shineing. The streetes are all well pitch’d w^{th} small stones and very Clean, and many very broad streetes: y^t I Entred in first was very broad for 2 Coaches or Carts to pass on Either side, and in the middle was a great well house w^{th} a wheele to wind up the water for the good of y^e publick. A Little further is a Large pond walled up w^{th} brick a mans height w^{th} an Entrance on one End. A Little farther was a building on which they were at work, design’d for a water house to supply y^e town by pipes into their houses w^{th} water. At a Little distance was another such a pond walled in as I described before. These things fill up the middle of this spacious streete w^{ch} is for use and also ornament, y^e spaces Each side being so broad. This brings you into a broad space Called the Hay market w^{ch} is on a hill, a very steep descent all well pitch’d as before: this Comes to another space for a market to sell hoggs in, and opens farther into divisions of buildings that begins severall streetes y^t runs off good Lengths and are of a tollerable size. One runs along behind w^{ch} is all for stalls for y^e Country butchers that bring their meate for y^e supply of y^e town, w^{ch} pay such a Rent for them to y^e town. On y^e other side are houses of y^e town butchers, y^e Inhabitants: by it is a Large market for fish, w^{ch} are all at a Little distance from y^e heart of y^e Citty, so is not annoy’d w^{th} them. There is a very Large market place and hall and Cross for fruite and little things Every day, and also a place under pillars for y^e Corn market.

The building round here is Esteemed y^e best and here is the town Hall, but all their buildings are of an old form, mostly in deep poynts and much tileing as has been observ’d before, and they playster on Laths w^{ch} they strike out into squares like broad free stone on y^e outside, w^{ch} makes their fronts Look pretty well; and some they build high and Contract y^e roofes resembling the London houses, but none of brick Except some few beyond the river w^{ch} are built of some of y^e Rich factors like y^e London buildings. There is in y^e middle of y^e town the Duke of Norfolks house of Brick and stone, w^{th} severall towers and turrets and balls y^t Looks well, w^{th} Large gardens, but y^e Inside is all demolished only y^e walls stand and a few Roomes for offices but nothing of state or tollerable for use.

On y^e Castle hill you see y^e whole Citty at once, being built round it: its a vast place and takes up a Large tract of ground, its 6 miles in Compass.

Here is the County hall and Goale where y^e assizes are held and y^e Sessions. Nothing of y^e Castle remaines but a green space, and under it is also a Large space for y^e beast market, and 3 tymes in y^e year is there a very great faire kept to w^{ch} resort a vaste Concourse of people, and wares—a full trade. Y^e whole Citty Lookes Like what it is, a Rich thriveing Industrious place; Satturday is their great market day. They have beside y^e town hall a hall distinct w^{ch} is the scaleing hall where their stuffs are all measured, and if they hold their breadths and Lengths they are scaled, but if they are deffective there is a fine Layd on y^e owner and a private marke on y^e stuff w^{ch} shews its defficiency.

There was also y^e mint which they Coyn’d, but since the old money is all new Coyn’d into mill’d money, that Ceases. Here there is a ffine large Cathedrall and very Loftly, but nothing remarkable of monuments or else: by it is 3 hospitalls for boys girls and old people who spinn yarne, as does all y^e town besides for y^e Crapes, Callimancos and damaskes w^{ch} is y^e whole business of the place. Indeed they are arrived to a great perfection in worke, so fine and thinn and glossy; their pieces are 27 yards in Length and their price is from 30 shillings to 3 pound as they are in ffineness. A man Can weave 13 yards a day, I saw some weaveing; they are all Employ’d in spinning, knitting weaveing, dying, scouring or bleaching stuffs. Their hospitalls are well provided for; there are 32 women in one as many men in y^e other, there is also a good free schoole. There is a great many Cerimonyes in y^e Choice and Swearing their major: they Elect him the first day of May and y^n prepare for his being sworne on Holly Thursday. They new washe and plaister their houses w^{th} in and without w^{ch} they strike out in squares like free stone. All y^e streete in w^{ch} this mayor Elect’s house, is very exact in beautifying themselves and hanging up flaggs y^e Coull^{rs} of their Companyes, and dress up pageants and there are playes and all sorts of show that day—in Little what is done at y^e Lord major of London show. Then they have a great feast w^{th} fine flaggs and scenes hung out, musick and danceing. I was in y^e hall they keep their feast in and saw some of their preparations: for that day being about a fortnight to it. The town is a mile and a halfe from y^e North to y^e South gate. Just by one of y^e Churches there is a wall made of flints that are headed very finely and Cut so exactly square and Even to shutt in one to another that y^e whole wall is made without Cement at all they say, but it appears to be very little if any morter; it Looks well, very smooth shineing and black.

A great many descenters are in this Citty, the Gentlewoman that was my acquaintance there dyed 10 dayes before I came thither so I made no great stay there but to see about y^e town.

Thence I went to Windham a Little market town 5 miles, mostly on a Causey y^e Country being Low and moorish, and y^e Road on y^e Causey was in many places full of holes tho’ its secured by a barr at which passengers pay a penny a horse in order to the mending y^e way, for all about is not to be Rode on Unless its a very dry summer. Thence we went mostly through Lanes where you meete y^e ordinary people knitting 4 or 5 in a Company under the hedges. To Attlborough, 5 mile more to a Little village, still finding the Country full of spinners and Knitters: thence to Thetford 6 miles more, w^{ch} was formerly a large place but now much decay’d and the ruines only shews it dimentions. There is a very high hill quite round stands up on one side of it and Can scarcely be ascended so steep. Here I Lay, w^{ch} is still in Norfolk. Next day I went to Euston Hall w^{ch} was y^e Lord arlingtons and by his only daughters marriage w^{th} y^e Duke of Grafton is his sons by her. Its two mile from thetford, it stands in a Large parke 6 miles about. Y^e house is a Roman H of brick: 4 towers w^{th} balls on them; the windows are Low and not sashes Else y^e roomes are of a good size and height, a good stair case full of good pictures, a Long gallery hung w^{th} pictures at Length, on y^e one side the Royal family from K: Henry y^e 7^{th} by y^e Scottish race, his Eldest daughter down to y^e present King William and his queen Mary. The other side are forreign princes from y^e Emperour of Moroccoe, y^e Northern and Southern princes and Emperour of Germany. There is a square in y^e middle where stands a billiard table, hung w^{th} outlandish pictures of Heroes; there is Count Egmint and Horn &c &c, but y^e End of y^e Roome is y^e Duke and Dutchess of Grafton’s picture at length. Thence I enter’d into dineing and drawing roome and bed Chambers of a very good size and good fret work on y^e Cieling: in one of the roomes was y^e Dutchess of Cleavelands picture in a sultaness dress, the Duke of Grafton being King Charles y^e seconds base son by her. There was also another picture of y^e Royal family. K Charles y^e firsts 5 Children altogether. I have often seen 3 w^{ch} was K: Charles y^e second, K: James and y^e Princess of Orange; but here was also y^e Lady Elizabeth and y^e Duke of Glocester a Little Infant on a pillow. In another place there is the queen mothers picture the Lady Henrietta drawn Large. There is a fine hall and parlour below pav’d w^{th} free stone. There are good gardens w^{th} fountaines and some stone statutes, a Cannall by y^e side, a Large Court at y^e Entrance w^{th} 3 Iron barr gates w^{ch} open to y^e ffront, divided w^{th} stone pillars and balls. Y^e Court w^{th} out is walled round and y^e wall is Carry’d a great Length round y^e back yards. Within this is another Court w^{th} Iron spike pallasadoes divided Every 2 or 3 yards by little stone pillars with balls. There are severall Rows of trees runs of a great length thro’ the parke a visto to y^e front of y^e house, w^{ch} lookes nobly tho’ not just of y^e new modell’d way of building. At y^e back gate I crossed over y^e river Waveney w^{ch} is y^e division of y^e two County’s and enter’d Suffolk and pass’d over perfect downs, Champion Country just like Salisbery plaine; and y^e winds have a pretty power here and blows strongly in y^e winter not well to be Endured.