Chapter III: Part 3

The little ports are all fitted for y^e Seamen and their affaires, Little houses, not but there are severall good old houses that are Gentlemens seats, as S^r Robert Dilington at Knighton and S^r John oglander at Nunwell, S^r Robert Worstly and severall More. S^r Rob^t Holmes has a good Estate there, he was the Governour of y^e Island and of Yarmouth Castle and there he is buried, Where is his Statue Cutt in Length in white Marble in the Church and railed in with Iron Grates; he was raised from Nothing and an imperious Govern^r, and what he Scrap’d together was forced to Leave to his Nephew and base Daughter, haveing no other, and they have set up this Stately monument which Cost a Great deal. There is one place called Mottstone just by the sea side, the Name Comes from many Great Stones that stand up in the Grounds not unlike y^e stones at Stonidge in Wiltshire, but this sort of stone is in Many places of y^e Island and most of the houses are built of Stone, some few Brick. From a hill just above Cowes that runns along by the Sea side You May Easily see Spitthead And S^t Hellens point and all the Shipps that Lay along y^e Road and that Lay in Portsmouth haven. From Ride is 3 Leagues to portsmouth, I pass’d it in an hour. Portsmouth is a very Good town, Well built with Stone and brick, its not a large town, there are Walls and Gates about it, and at Least eight Bridges and Gates without one another w^{th} Ditches which secures it very Strongly to y^e Land-ward, to the Sea the ffortifications are not so strong; there is a plattform with Guns and Pallisadoes. There is a good dock for Building Shipps, but about 6 mile off at Red bridge are the best Shipps built. There are most of the great Shipps Lye at Anchor here.

I was a board y^e Royal Charles, and the Royal James, which are ffine Shipps, y^e Roomes Spacious for Length and Breadth but not high. There was a large Chappel and Cabbin with Damaske furniture. The Castle at Portsmouth is not Great—its Rather Called the Kings house where is a Great deal of armes. I was in the Dineing Roome where King Charles y^e Second met Queen Katherine and was marryed to her and set the crown on her head. There from that roome out of double doores goes a long wooden bridge to the Plattforme; just by is South sea Castle which is wash’d round by y^e sea and pretty deep water att Spring tides, it Looks very fine but think its but of Little Strength or Service. Above the town is a very fine down Called Porchester down very pleasant for Sports Hawking and hunting; 6 mile over this down is Southwicke, Coll: Nortons a good old house Capable of being Made ffine, Large Garden room—Woods and Grounds Lying well about it and a good Warren, Coppices and y^e Stately G^t Timber trees as may be seen. He was an old officer in the Long parliam^t service—this is 15 mile from Winchester and from Winchester to South-hampton is ten miles; that is a very neate clean town and the Streets well pitch’d and kept so, by their Carrying all their Carriages on Sleds as they do in holland, and permit no Cart to go about in y^e town, and keep it Clean Swept—this was formerly more strictly observ’d when the town was full of trade, for it is a good port, but now y^e trade has failed and y^e town almost forsooke and neglected. Its a place of No Strength now, by reason of y^e Castle being ruined and the fortifications neglected and the Gunns taken thence, tho’ by most its thought the best scittuated port for Shipps to Ride and take their provision in and so Capable of tradeing; but the last 2 Reignes for near 40 year discourag’d it being a proper place for the french to have Seiz’d and Secured for themselves. About 3 Leagues off is Cashot Castle just out into the Sea w^{ch} does Encompasse it all but a very little point of land Called Horsy Beach that runnes out into the New forrest by Bewly w^{ch} was an abby in the fforest, for the Extent of y^e fforrest is large—Miles long; All round Casholt Castle on the Beach itts as full of fine Cockle shells so that they heap them up all round the Castle Like a wall.

It was at South-hampton King Philip Landed when he Came to marry Queen Mary. Ffrom thence its 6 miles to Rumsey, and the Road Runns just by a ffine house of one of my Relations S^r John S^t Barbe’s; the Rows of trees in the avenues runns just from y^e Road to the front of the house. You Enter a Court thats wall’d in and blew Iron gates. The Court has a Round in the Middle rail’d in, designed for a Bowling Green, and the Coaches drive round it to Come to the Entrance w^{ch} is severall stone Stepps to a broad Space that is railed w^{th} Balls and Banisters: the Space is paved w^{th} broad free stone the stepps y^e Same 8 or 10. The house is a halfe Roman H. Y^e hall is in the Middle w^{th} double doores, its very lofty and large there’s a Chimney just against the Entrance on the Right hand, runns in an Entry through the house to the back yard, where are the offices, Still house and Barnes and Coach houses and a very ffine Stable built of Brick—there are large partitions. In this Entry you have the pantry and Cellars and on the other side y^e Kittchin Larders and pastry w^{ch} is one wing of the house and just behind the hall is y^e Servants hall and a Little parlour just by the pantry and back staires. Then the great hall is divided in halfe by the Staircase, w^{ch} hangs on its own work not supported of Either Side, to the first half pace and all the way up without Support, on the one Side they are of oake, the railes and Banisters are varnished. The halfe paces are Inlaid w^{th} yew wood w^{ch} lookes a yellowish Red in Squaires; they Land on the next Story with a space of this Inlaid worke of a good Bigness the whole Compass of y^e Staircase. The Roofe of the Staires is even w^{th} y^e Roofe of y^e next Story; on the other side of the Staires are severall Rows of Pillars of wood Painted Like Marble for to walke between, and you pass quite under the Staires into a Little Closet, and a little farther into a back yard where is a Bathing house and other necessarys. There is a screen stands on the side of the Staires next the Chimney to make that part more private. Y^e hall Runns quite through to the Garden where there is a door w^{th} stepps down and so at this door you see thro’ the house to y^t back yard I mentioned at y^e End of the Entry. The other wing of y^e house is a large parlour and drawing Roome, this is out of the hall by the Garden; the hall is well painted and a Carved Cornish round and pillars on the wanscoate round the Roome. The parlour is wanscoated and painted a Cedar Coullour. The next Story you Enter of this large halfe pace on the Right hand, into a door w^{ch} Leads fore Right to a Balcony, and on the Left hand into a passage, w^{ch} leads to the Chamber over the drawing Roome, and by it is a Servants Roome Even w^{th} y^e passage. On the Right hand is a passage Leads to Another Roome just over against—open the doores and there is a perfect visto, so there is the other way and a servants roome even w^{th} y^e passage; beyond this roome is a back Stair Leads to the bath, and by y^e Servants Roome is a large back Staire that Leads to the Next Story, the Great staires Ending here, and on the Left hand they lead into a large dineing Roome &c.—then a drawing Roome and next a bed Chamber w^{ch} has a back doore to the back Staires by y^e kitchin. These doores open through to y^e End one way the best bed Chamber and quite to the balcony y^e other side a visto.

Within the dineing roome on ye Left hand is a very Largo bed Chamber w^{ch} jndeed is y^e best—good tapistry hangings—here is design’d a velvet bed its painted white; there are very good Pictures; here is a Little back Staires to y^e Servants hall. The dineing Roome is wanscoated and varnish’d the other Roomes nothing done to—that is the drawing Roome and Chamber. W^{th} in there is damaske, and Camlet beds in y^e other Roomes, and off these back Staires by y^e Kitchin is a Chamber, anty Roome, dressing roome, 2 Closets These back staires goe up to the next Story y^t Leads to the roomes over this, and to a long Gallery that is Window all to the ffront and Leads to all y^e Chambers. There is handsome roomes only those at y^e Side and End are Garret fashion—between are Servants roomes and Closets: thence a little pair of Stairs Leads up to the Gallery and thence up to the Cupilow which is in the Middle of the house, all Windows round and on y^e top has a Gold ball that holds severall Gallons. On each Wing there are 2 little towers, one has y^e Clock the other a Sundial, and on the top two gold balls of a Lesser size. The Gardens are walled in, some with brest walls, some higher with flower potts on them; severall places with open grates to Look through with Stone balls or ffigures on the pillars each Side the Gates everyway. There is a water house that by a Wheele Casts up the Water out of y^e River just by, and fills y^e pipes to Serve all y^e house and to fill y^e bason designed in the middle of the Garden w^{th} a Spout in the middle.

The Gardens are not finish’d but will be very ffine, w^{th} Large Gates open to y^e Grounds beyond, some of w^{ch} are planted with trees. Its a fine thing, but doubt its no very good aire—it stands in a low place near y^e River, the hills all round on y^t Side and y^e Mold and Soyle is Black and such as they Cut up for peate. The road from hence to Salisbury is by White Parish and Joy Church and you come in Sight of my Lord Coal-rain house that Looks Like a good Building of Stone, but its just so upon the Great River that it lookes Like a Little Castle or Shipp. This river runns to Breamore from Salisbury just by a very fine Seat of y^e Lady Brooks which was S^r W^m Doringtons heir. The house Stands finely to the River a brick building. You Enter into a Walled Court Soe up 12 Stepps at Least into a Noble hall: on the Left hand was a parlour, and on y^e Right a large drawing roome a Little parlour and Large Staires up to Severall very handsom Chambers ffurnished with good Tapistry and damaske and some velvets, w^{ch} was new because the fire had Spoiled most of the goods; but the house was built just in y^e same ffigure. The Kitchins and offices are all under y^e roomes of State and they go down Steps to it Under y^e Arch of Stepps that ascend to the hall: out of the drawing roome by Glass doors you enter the Garden on a terrass and y^t by Stepps, so to Severall Walks of Gravel and Grass and to the Gardens, one below another with Low Walls to give the view all at once. Here was fine flowers and Greens Dwarfe trees and oring and Lemon trees in Rows w^{th} fruite and flowers at once and some ripe; they are y^e first oring trees I ever Saw. Here are Stately woods and walks. This River Runns to ffording bridge A Little place, thence to Kingwood, thence to Christchurch; it turns many Great Mills and there have been great attempts to make it Navigable w^{ch} would be of Great advantage, but all Charge has been Lost in it. There is Store of good ffish in it; it runns to Christchurch and divides the new fforest from Wiltshire, there is a large Bridge that crosses at Christchurch where it runns into the Sea. This is 18 miles from Salisbury 20 miles from Newtontony over y^e down, 6 to Rumsy 4 to Lockerly two to East Titherly where S^r ffrancis Rowles has a fine house and Garden and Groves. One on the Edge of y^e hill, all in sight of y^e Road Looks ffinely of Scott and Norroway ffirrs in Rows and Looks very well. In 2 mile of this is Dean w^{ch} was S^r John Evlings, now his Grandsons Lord Kingston, it seems to be a good Lofty Building, its woody and very ffruitfull. There is Likewise a good old seate of M^r Whiteheads my grandfathers, Normans Court in West Titherly; its well wooded, good Gardens, but a very old house; a ffine Grove of ffirrs to y^e ffront. This is 7 mile from Newtontony and as much to Stockbridge w^{ch} is y^e Road to London; thence to Sutton 12 miles, thence to Basinstoake 12 mile. Its a Large town and has a good trade being a Road. A mile thence is Basin on y^e Left hand w^{ch} was a house of y^e Duke of Boltons, but being a Garrison in y^e Civil warrs was pulled down and Now only some part remaines, and the Gardens w^{ch} are improved and new walls built: fine fruit and vineyards, a large parke to it. On y^e Right hand about a mile off is Hackwood which is another Seate of y^e Duke of Boltons in a pretty parke. It looks very pretty not large. Basinstoake Lyes watrish but its on Chalke. A little further on y^e Left hand at some distance you see a fine Seate of S^r Robert Henleys, it looks Like a little town, its so large a building, and they say its a noble thing ffinished and furnish’d very well with good Gardens.

To Harfordbridge 8 mile thence to bagshott 8 mile a heavy sandy way, and y^e Same from thence to Egam 8 mile; thence to Staines a mile, where we Cross y^e Thames on a bridge and enter Middlesex—thence to London 15 miles.

I went to see Hampton Court 10 mile from London; it looks Like a little town y^e buildings runn so great a Length on y^e ground, Y^e old buildings and y^e New part w^{ch} King William and Queen Mary built. Y^e Queen took Great delight in it. Y^e new was but just y^e shell up and some of y^e Roomes of State Ceil’d but nothing ffinished. The roomes were very Lofty, round a Large Court and all the appartments intire. The old buildings were on the other side the prioy Garden: there was the water Gallery that opened into a ballcony to y^e water, and was decked with China and ffine pictures of y^e Court Ladyes drawn by Nellor. Beyond this came severall Roomes, and one was pretty Large, at y^e four Corners were little roomes like Closets or drawing roomes, one pannell’d all w^{th} jappan, another w^{th} Looking Glass, and two w^{th} fine work under pannells of Glass. There was the queens Bath and a place to take boat in the house. The Gardens were designed to be very ffine, Great fountaines and Grass plotts and gravell walkes, and just against the middle of y^e house was a very large fountaine, and beyond it a large Cannal Guarded by rows of Even trees that runn a good way. There was fine Carving in the Iron Gates in the Gardens w^{th} all sorts of ffigures, and Iron spikes Round on a breast wall and severall Rows of trees.

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_HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697_

ffrom London to Amwell Berry in Hartfordshire 19 mile, thence to Bishops Startford in Essex 13 mile, w^{ch} is a very pretty Neat Market town, a good Church and a delicate spring of Water w^{ch} has a wall built round it, very Sweet and Cleare water for drinking. There is a little river runns by the town y^t feeds severall Mills.

Thence we Went to Andlyend 10 miles, a house of y^e Earle of Sussex w^{ch} makes a Noble appearance Like a town, so many towers and buildings off stone within a parke w^{ch} is walled round. A good River runs through it, we pass over the bridge. Its built round 3 Courts, there are 30 great and Little towers on the top, and a great Cupilow in the Middle. The roomes are Large and Lofty with good Rich old ffurniture tapistry, but Noe beds in y^t part we saw. There are 750 (150?) Roomes in the house.

The Cannall in the Midst of the parke Look’d very fine, its altogether a Stately palace and was built for one of y^e Kings. Thence to Little-berry one Mile, where is a house with abundance of Curiosityes all performed by Clock work and Such like, w^{ch} appears very Strange to the beholders, but the master was not at home so I saw no more than the Chaire they Set in when they are Carry’d about. All the Country is pleasant; between this and Cambridge you go in sight of so many neate villages w^{th} Rows of trees about them and very neate built Churches—Sometimes 5 or 6 of these are in view together in 3 or four mile of Each other—Y^e Churches are stone-work. We went to Babaram where was a house of S^r Rich^d Bennets in a pleasant parke prettyly situated, only it is in a Low ground, but y^e fine Rows of trees in the severall avenues Came just down to the Road: thence to Bornbridge 5 mile, thence to Hodmogoge hills 3 miles, w^{ch} looks at a distance Like a long Barn, but when you approach Near you see it a Great fortification or Ruines of a Castle, with great trenches one within another, and all y^e buildings—there is only a long string of Stables to keep y^e Kings hunting horses. The hill is of a great height from whence you have a great prospect of y^e whole Country and of Cambridge w^{ch} is 3 mile off. The town Lyes in a bottom and Marshy Ground all about it severall miles w^{ch} is Garnish’d with willows; y^e buildings are old and Indifferent. the Streetes mostly narrow, (except near the Market place), w^{ch} is pretty spacious—there stands the University Church. Trinity Colledg is the ffinest, yet not so Large as Christchurch College in oxford. In the first Court there is a very ffine ffountaine in the Middle of y^e Quadrangle w^{th} a Carved top and Dials round—there are Large Cloysters. The Library runns all y^e rang of building at y^e End and stands on 3 rows of stone pillars; it opens into the Gardens and walk w^{th} 3 Large Gates or doores of Iron Carv’d very ffine w^{th} fflowers and Leaves. The river runs at y^e back side of most of y^e Colleges; they have fine stone bridges over it and gates that Lead to fine walks; Y^e rivers name is Cam.

The Library farre exceeds that of Oxford, the Staires are Wanscoated and very large and Easye ascent, all of Cedar wood, y^e room spacious and Lofty paved w^{th} black and white marble, y^e sides are wanscoated and decked with all Curious books off Learning, their Catalogue and their Benefactors. There is two Large Globes at each End w^{th} teliscopes and microscopes and y^e finest Carving in wood, in flowers, birds, Leaves, ffigures of all sorts as I ever saw. There is a large Balcony opens at the End, very large, all finely painted all over y^e history of the New Testament. Its a hundred and twenty steps to y^e roofe and supported by noe pillars all Arch of Stone: You walke on y^e Arch or Cradle as its term’d. There is 32 Little windows Cut in Stone just as you ascend to y^e Cradle or Arch w^{ch} runns on Either side, and a p^r of Staires of 8 stepps to every 3 windows w^{ch} Lead up to the Arch; thence you ascend the Leads over all w^{ch} are fine, secured by battlements round, there are 4 large Spires: at each corner one. On these Leads you May see a vast Country round.

You see Ely-minster and y^e towers; this is a noble building and Stands on so advantagious a ground, and so Lofty built y^t its perspicious above y^e town; this is in Lieu of y^e Theatre at Oxford there being none here. St Johns College Garden is very pleasant for y^e fine walks both Close Shady walks and open Rows of trees and quickset hedges. There is a pretty bowling green with Cut arbours in the hedges. Queens Colledge is old but a stately and Lofty building. Claire Hall is very Little but most Exactly neate in all parts, they have walks w^{th} Rows of trees, and bridges over the river and fine painted Gates into y^e ffields. Katherine Hall is new built, the Chapple was not Quite ffinished; the apartments for y^e fellows and Gentlemen Commoners are very ffine, a Large dineing roome, a good Chamber and good Studdy and this for 8£ a year.

Here we are Entertained by some of our Companys acquaintance. From Cambridge we go just by Peterborough: we see the Minster and y^e town, very plaine all built with Stone. The road is very pleasant to Ffenistanton, 8 miles to Godmanchester, and from thence Huntington 1 mile. We cross the River Lin over a bridge and so Enter Huntingtonshire. This river goes to Lin in Norfolke its a very pleasant Country to travel in in y^e Summer, but after raines its in Some places deep, but the prospects are delighting; Little town and good Enclosure w^{th} woods and same of the Country’s. Huntington is but a Small Shire town; just by it is a house of the Lord Sandwich, y^t it is pretty large. We enter a good Lofty hall, in it hangs the Ship in w^{ch} he was lost, that is the representation of it Cut out in Little and all things Exactly made to it; there is a good parlour and drawing roome: well proportion’d are y^e rooms w^{th} good old ffurniture and good Pictures. There is a Large dineing roome above w^{th} good tapistry hangings, and its Ceil’d w^{th} jrish oake Carv’d with points hanging down like fine ffret worke; this wood no spider will weave on or endure. There are good bed Chambers with good furniture and fine pictures; over one of the Chimneys is a fine picture of Venus were it not too much uncloth’d. The Gardens and Wilderness and Greenhouse will be very fine when quite ffinished with the dwarfe trees and gravell walks. There is a large fountaine or bason which is to resemble that in the privy garden at Whitehall, which will ffront the house.

The high terrass walks Look out on the Road. all this Country is good Land and ffruitfull and much like Oxfordshire.

Ffrom Huntington we came to Shilton 10 mile, and Came in Sight of a great water on the Right hand about a mile off w^{ch} Looked Like Some Sea it being so high and of great Length: this is in part of the ffenny Country and is Called Whitlsome Mer, is 3 mile broad and six long. In y^e Midst is a little jsland where a great Store of Wildfowle breeds, there is no coming near it; in a Mile or two the ground is all wett and Marshy but there are severall little Channells runs into it w^{ch} by boats people go up to this place. When you enter the mouth of y^e Mer it lookes fformidable and its often very dangerous by reason of sudden winds that will rise Like Hurricanes in the Mer, but at other tymes people boate it round the Mer with pleasure. There is abundance of good ffish in it. This was thought to have been Sea some tyme agoe and Choak’d up and so remaines all about it for some miles a ffenny Marshy Ground for those little Rivers that runns into y^e Sea some distance of miles. Thence to Wangfford 2 miles, thence to Stamfford 5 miles.

We pass over a down where is a Cross that directs three wayes York, London and Oatly, and here we Come in Sight of a Gentlemans house that stands finely on a hill in a parke, pretty high with fine groves about it. A little farther when we are pass’d the water att Wansford we enter Ruttlandshire w^{ch} seems more woody than y^e others. Stamfford town is as fine a built town all of stone as may be seen; its on the side of a hill w^{ch} appears very fine in the approach.

Severall very good Churches with high Spires and towers very ornamentall, its not very Large, but much ffiner than Cambridge, and in its view has severall good houses. On the Right hand of Stamfford is a house of M^r Neals in a pretty neate parke pailed in; y^e house not very big but Lookes well. On the Side of y^e hill over against Stamfford and on the Left hand over against the town Stands My Lord of Exeters Burly house, Eminent for its Curiosity. The Situation is the finest I ever saw, on the Edge of the hill and severall Rows of trees of severall acres about it quite to the Road. It stands in a very fine parke w^{ch} is full of deer and fine Rows of trees. On Either side a very broad Glide or visto that Lookes finely to y^e River and to the adjacent hills, a distance, both with fine woods. The town of Stamfford appears very fine on the Left hand and most noble woods on the Right hand. The house Looks very nobly; y^e Garden very fine within one another w^{th} Lower and higher walls deck’d with all Sorts of trees and Greens; very fine Gravell walks and Grass squaires w^{th} Statues and fine Grass walks, dwarfs and all sorts of Green trees and Curious things: very fine fountaines, there is one in the middle of the Garden thats just to y^e Middle also of the house, that is of an exceeding great size. There is a fine vineyard, Warren and Groves w^{ch} makes its prospects very delightfull.

You enter a large Court walled, thence to a Space of Ground pretty Large, Encompass’d round w^{th} a little wall of a yard High of free Stone very ffine wrought, on which are to be Iron railes and spires, that was not ffinish’d nor the space paved which is design’d to be of broad Stone: all before the house the little breast wall is in a Compass Like a halfe Moone.

The Sides up to the house are built in roomes for appartments, you ascend the house by Stone Steps—about 12—that all turn round; the upper Stepp is at Least 20 foot steps in Compass; the door you enter is of Iron Carv’d the ffinest I ever saw all sort of Leaves, flowers, figures, birds, beasts, wheate in y^e Carving; very Large y^e doors are—there is an Inside doore as Case to it. On the other side of the house is Such another door that Leads into a Court. The hall is a noble roome painted ffinely, y^e walls with armory and Battles; its Lofty and paved with black and white Marble. You go thence into parlours, dineing rooms, drawing roomes and bed Chambers one leading out of another, at Least 20 that were very Large and Lofty, and most fine Carving in the Mantlepieces, and very fine paint in pictures, but they were all Without Garments or very little, that was the only fault, the immodesty of y^e Pictures, Especially in My Lords appartment. This bed Chamber was ffurnish’d very Rich, the tapistry was all blew Silke and Rich Gold thread, so that the Gold appeared for y^e Light part of all the worke. There was a blew velvet bed with gold ffringe and very Richly Embroidered, all the Inside with ovals on the head piece and tester, where the figures are so finely wrought in Satten stitch it Looks Like painting. There is also My Ladys appart^t, Severall roomes very Richly ffurnished and very ffine tapistry with Silver and gold in Most; there was at Least 4 velvet beds 2 plaine and 2 figured—Crimson—green—Severall Coullours together in one; Severall Damaske beds and some tissue beds all ffinely Embroydered. My Ladys Closet is very ffine, the wanscoate of the best Jappan, the Cushons very Rich Work: there is a great deale of fine worke under Glasses and a Glass case full of all Sorts of Curiosityes of Amber stone Currall and a world of fine things. My Lord Excetter in his travells was for all sorts of Curious things if it Cost him never so much, and a great many of my Ladyes fine things were given her by her Mother y^e Countess of Devonshire. There is a Chamber My Lady used to Lye in in the Winter, a green velvet bed and the hangings are all Embroydery of her Mothers work very ffine; the Silk Looks very fresh and ffigures Look naturall.

There is a drawing room by that, w^{ch} has a great Curiosity that my Lord brought from beyond sea, on the Mantlepiece under a glass; its nunns work the ffinest Embroidery that it Looks just Like point or the ffinest Linnen you can see; this Cost a great Sume. There are fine Chimney pieces of Marble and the windows the same, there are at least 20 rooms very Large and Lofty that are all painted on the top; there are at Least 20 on y^e other side of the house all w^{th} different ffrett work on the Ceiling, besides almost as many more roomes that are a building. Some the floores Not Laid, others Not ffinish’d y^t the house will be a vast thing w^n done. The floores were Inlaid in severall roomes, the Chapple is old and not to abide, the painting is good but the place is not Suteable to any part Else. The great variety of the roomes and ffine works tooke me up 2 full hours to go from one Roome to another over the house. The Bowling-green, Wilderness, nor Walke I was not in, being so great a tract of ground, but you see it all at a view on y^e top of y^e house; it is Esteemed the ffinest house and scituation that is in England and will be very Compleate when ffinish’d.

From thence we went to Streton 6 mile, a Little house of one Mr Horsman; very good Plantations of trees about it—Stone building. Rutlandshire seems more woody and Inclosed than some others. Thence to Colson where Lincolnshire Comes in; 2 mile thence towards Lincoln we go on a fine Champion Country much Like Salisbury plaine, and a Large prospect all round—at a distance you See woods and towns. This is the best part of this shire for most part is ffenny, and we went twenty six Miles all on Such Way quite to Lincoln town. We pass by Grantum which is a good town 16 mile from Lincoln, all built with Stone, but Lies down in a Low bottom. The Church has a very high Steeple, its Seen above a Great hill that is by it of a great Length and its a long tyme w^n you see a great part of the Steeple before you come to see the Church or town it Lies so in a bottom. Lincoln opens to view at Least 6 miles off; it Stands on a very high hill and Looks very ffine; at the Entrance the houses Stand Compact together. The Streetes are but Little but its a vast hill to ascend into the town where the Minster stands, by that Means its very perspicious and Eminently in view a great Many Miles off. The tower, that Great Thoms nest, is 250 steps up, 8 persons may very well Stand up in the hollow of the bell together, its as much as a man Can Reach to the top of the bell with his hand when he is in the Inside; its rarely Ever rung but only by Ringing the Clapper to Each Side w^{ch} we did and that sounds all over the town. The houses are but small and not lofty nor y^e Streetes of any breadth. The Sea has formerly Come up to the town and y^{re} has been very deep water where now great part of y^e town is built, so y^t what was y^e town formerly is that w^{ch} stands upon a precipice as it were of a hill. Y^e water is Choake up now and y^e sea Comes not near in Severall Miles and what water they have is Called Lincoln Dike—you pass it over on a bridge. We went thence by many very ffine Seates, we pass by S^r John Brownlows and Severall others; thence to Newark 12 mile in Nottinghamshire; just by it you see a very pretty new house of brick building of the Lord Lexingtons, w^{th} the walls and towers that Looks very Well. Newark is a very neate Stone built town, the Market place is very Large and Look’d ffine; just by it is the Great Church w^{ch} is Large and with a very high Spire, there is prayers twice a day in it. There remaines the holes in the Church walls that the bullets made which were shott into the town in the Siege Laid to it by the Parliament army in the Civil warrs: the Castle was then demolish’d so y^t only the ruinated walls remaine w^{ch} is washed by a very pretty river. At this we Enter Nottinghamshire and here I met w^{th} the strongest and best Nottingham ale that Looked very pale but Exceeding Clear. Thence to Nottingham town, its 12 mile more and we ffery’d over the Trent w^{ch} in some places is so deep, but waggons and horses ffords it. I rode along 7 or 8 mile by the Trent w^{ch} is a ffine River tho’ not so broad as the Thames is at Kingston, but it look’d very pleasant to Ride by its bancks for so many miles, and on the other side was a high Ridge of hills shaded over from the top to the bottom w^{th} fine trees and this for Severall Miles. When on the other hand you see a vast bottom Called Note Vale, y^e wood belongs to one M^r Heckam. You pass by severall pretty houses by the river Side, Stone buildings, good Gardens, and a Little farther you see the Lord Kingstons house w^{ch} is Contigeous to Nottingham town, called Home Peirpoynt w^{ch} Looks finely in woods. The town of Nottingham is the neatest town I have seen, built of stone and delicate, Large and long Streetes much like London, and y^e houses Lofty and well built. The Market place is very broad, out of w^{ch} runns a very Large Streete much like Holborn but the buildings ffine, and there is a Pyaza all along one side of one of the Streetes, w^{th} Stone pillars for walking that runns the Length of the Streetes w^{ch} is a mile long. All the Streetes are of a good size all about y^e town and well pitch’d, there are severall good houses in the town. There are 3 or 4 Large houses of the Duke of New-Castles w^{th} the Castle w^{ch} is a fine thing—stands very high on a hill—and when you Come to the Castle you ascend 40 Steps to the Court and hall. The roomes are very Lofty and Large, 6 or 7 state roomes and a long gallery hung with fine Pictures of the ffamily; the wanscoate is most of Cedar. Some Roomes are hung with good tapistry. The Chamber of State is hung w^{th} very Rich tapistry so much silver and gold in it that the 3 pieces that hung the Roome Cost 1500^£: the bed was rail’d in as y^e presence Chamber used to be, y^e bed was damaske. The floore of the roome was jnlay’d w^{th} Cyphers and the Corronet: here y^e Princess Ann Lay when she fled in King James’s tyme when the prince of orange was Coming over. On the Leads you have a very fine prospect of y^e whole town and river; You see the Earle of Kingstones and S^r Thomas Willoughby’s fine house on y^e other side of y^e town, and at a distance we see Beavior Castle the Earle of Rutland’s house, and a prospect more than 20 mile about, shewing the diversityes of Cultivation and produce of the Earth. The land is very Rich and fruitfull, so the Green Meadows w^{th} the fine Corrn ffields w^{ch} seemes to bring forth in handfulls. They soe most of Barley and have great Encrease, there is all sorts of Graine besides, and plaines and Rivers and Great woods and Little towns all in view. They make brick and tile by y^e town—the Manufacture of the town mostly Consists in weaving of Stockings w^{ch} is a very Ingenious art. There was a man that spunn glass and made Severall things in glass—birds and beasts. I spunn some of the glass and saw him make a swan presently w^{th} divers Coull’d glass; he makes Buttons w^{ch} are very strong and will not breake. Nottingham is ffamous for good ale, so for Cellars, they are all dugg out of the Rocks and so are very Coole. Att y^e Crown Inn is a Cellar of 60 stepps down, all in y^e Rock Like arch worke over your head: in y^e Cellar I dranke good ale. We were very well Entertained and very Reasonably att the Blackmoors head; thence we went to Mansfield 12 mile and pass’d some part of the fine fforest of Sherwood. Mansfield is a Little Market town built with Stone, there is a Little river; they make and dye Tammy’s here. There is one pretty Stone built house just by the water side of 40 Stepps ascent into it. At the End of the town is an hospital built by a quaker for ancient people, its a good neat building, they were to have 8 pound a year a piece and the roomes and Gardens, but its Chiefly for their friends. There is nothing remarkable here but the dearness of y^e Inns, tho’ in so plentifull a Country. We went thence to Wursup and went through a parke of y^e Duke of New-Castles and by his house Calld Welbeake. Ye house is but old and Low buildings, but the parke is the Noblest wood I Ever saw, fine and stately Straight. A mile thence is a fine pile of Buildings of Stone very uniforme and high Called Worsup Mannour built by a Coe heir of the Devonshire house—3 sisters built 3 noble buildings, this and Ardeck and Chattsworth. A little beyond this is another Building the remaines of Worsup Abby. All the way to Blith is a very heavy Sandy Way 12 miles. At Blith was a very Sweete house and Gardens and Grounds, it was of Brick work Coyn’d with Stones and the Windows with Stone, all sashes; the building was so neate and Exact, it was Square w^{th} 4 juttings out at Each Corner; it Stands high and Commands the Sight of the Country about. The fine river by it with fish ponds and Meadows and fine woods beyond makes it look very pleasant. The Gardens are very neate and after the London Mode, of Gravel and Grass walks and Mount, and the Squaires with dwarfes and Cyprus, ffirre and all sorts of Greens and fruite trees, its very ffruitefull—I Eate good fruite there. Its just by the Church so that a Large Arch w^{ch} did belong to the Church is now made a shady Seate to the Garden with Greens over it, under w^{ch} is a Sepulchre for y^e ffamily. It belongs to one M^r Mellish a Merchant in London, its in all parts a most Compleate thing and its scituation most pleasant. Almost all y^e road between this and DonCaster is sandy way, to Rosdin 3 mile, thence to DonCaster 6 miles—here Yorkshire beginns and here the Musick wellcom’d us into Yorkshire. DonCaster is a pretty Large town of Stone buildings, the streetes are good, there is a handsome Market Cross advanc’d on 20 steps at Least. The Church is neate and pretty Large, Severall Little Monuments. This town stands on the River Don, w^{ch} gives name to the town, here is also a good Large Meeteing place. We were here the Lord’s day and well Entertained at the Angel. Thence we went to Wentbridge and pass’d by woods belonging to S^r Wentworth by his house 7 mile to Wentbridge, where had been a fire the night before Caused by the Lightening and thunder w^{ch} was remarkably great as we took notice of, 2 barnes and a house was burnt.

Thence we ascended a very Steepe hill and so to Fferrybridge 3 mile where we pass’d the fine River Called the Aire, Large for Barges as was most of those Rivers I have mention’d.

From thence to TodCaster 8 mile, w^{ch} is a very good Little town for travellers, mostly jnns and little tradesmens houses. This stands on a very large River Called the Whart. Just before you Come to y^e town there is some of y^e water w^{ch} on Great raines are not to be pass’d—it was very deep when I went through. Thence we go much on a Causey to Yorke 8 miles more, it stands high but for one of the Metropolis and the see of y^e Archbishopp it Makes but a meane appearance. The Streetes are Narrow and not of any Length, save one w^{ch} you Enter of from the bridge that is over the Ouise which Lookes like a fine River when full after much raine. It is but Low in Comparison of Some Rivers, it bears Great Barges, it Looks muddy, its full of good ffish. We Eate very good Cod fish and Salmon and that at a pretty Cheape rate, tho’ we were not in the best jnn for the Angel is the best in Cunny Streete. The houses are very Low and as jndifferent as in any Country town and the Narrowness of y^e Streetes makes it appear very mean.

Nottingham is so farre before it for its size—its true Nottingham is not a quarter so bigg, Else y^e Streetes and buildings are so Much Nobler as Can be jmagin’d; it Lookes better att the approach because you see the towers off y^e gates and Severall Churches in Compassing y^e Minster and all y^e Windmills round y^e town of w^{ch} there are many. Y^e River runns through the town and so its divided, y^e buildings Look No better than the outskirts off London Wappen &c. The Bridg is fine arches and built on with houses; the Pavements w^{ch} is Esteem’d the Chiefe part of town where y^e Market house and town hall stands is so mean that Southwarke is much before it. There are a Great Many pretty Churches 16 in Number, but the minster is a noble building and holds in view at Least 30 miles before you Come to it. I saw it and also at y^t distance, and saw just by it a high hill or ffortification it appeared to be, but when I Came to York I found it to be only a very high hill w^{th} stately high trees on it as thick as Could be, a Noble Grove. The Minster is very Large and fine of Stone, Carv’d all the outside, 3 high towers above the Leads; I was in one of them, the highest, and it was 262 steps and those very Steep Steps, there is a Gallery round the middle of the Church about halfe way that goes off these steps of the tower, where you may go round and Looke down into the body of y^e Church and y^t was so great a distance that the men and Ladyes that were Walking below look’d like Pigmyes a very little to us above. On the Leads of y^e tower Shews a vast prospect of the Country, at Least 30 mile round, you see all over the town y^t Lookes as a building too much Cluster’d together, y^e Streetes being so narrow—some were pretty Long. There is another river w^{ch} fills the ditches round the town Called Ffosse. In the Minster there is the Greatest Curiosity for Windows I ever saw, they are so large and so Lofty, those in the Quire at y^e End and on Each side that is 3 storys high and painted very Curious with History of y^e Bible; the painting is very fine such as was in Kings Chapple in Cambridge, but the Loftyness of y^e windows is more than I ever saw any Where Else and by all accounts is peculiar; There is such another Window at the End of the Cross jsle just by y^e Quire—all y^e other Windows are of y^e usual Size of other Cathedralls. Ye body of y^e Church is large and I thinke Larger than any Cathedrall I have seen, bigger than Winchester Cathedrall. All these Isles are broad the people of ffashion use them to Walke in and on that account its much [something left out] they keep it not Cleaner, the Quire has a very good Carving in Wood about it, there is a very good Organ, the table cloth and Cushons and books at y^e Comunion table was Crimson velvet and hangings, and its Embroyder’d very Richly w^{th} gold of a Great depth, and Gold ffringe at y^e bottom: this was Given y^e Church by Doctor Lamplue y^t was the Arch-bishop whose Statue is in White Marble in y^e wall w^{th} Mitre and shepherds Crook. Just by him is ye Effigy of another Bishop Laying along cut in Stone, and by the aire and Mien he looks more Like a Soldier or Beau than a Bishop and so it seemes he was in humour. The Embriodery at the table is almost yard deep, that was given by Lamplue. In the vestry there is a well of Sweet spring-water called S^t Peter’s well, y^e S^t of the Church, so it is S^t Peters y^e Cathedrall is. There is a large hunters horne tipt with Silver and Garnish’d over and Engraved ffinely all double Gilt w^{th} a Chaine, the same given by a Gentleman that also gave his Estate to add to the revenues of y^e Church, on a dislike to disobedient Children; he used the horne When he hunted and drank in it too. I saw there the ffine tissue Cannopy that was held over the head of King James the first when he Came into England and y^e head of 2 mace w^{ch} were Carry’d before him then. There I saw a Chest that was Triangular fashion, the Shape of y^e Coapes when folded in y^e Middle and so put into this Chest. The Chapter house is very finely Carv’d and fine painting on the windows all round, its all arched Stone and Supported by its own Work haveing no pillars to Rest on, tho’ its Length and breadth be Equal and at Least 24 ffoot Each. Here was a mint for Coyning the old money and plaite into new mill’d money; I saw them at work and Stamp’d one halfe Crown my Self—they dispatch worke very fast and have Coyn’d Severall 1000_£. I see all parts of the work about y^e pounding, the boyling, defineing and makeing Barres and Cutting out in y^e mill and Bakeing and Stamping, all but Milling which art they are Sworne to keep private.

The Bishops Seate was 4 or 5 mile out of town on the River Ouise. Ffrom thence we went over a marshy Comon to the Spaw at Marsborough 12 mile; the town is a pretty stone building, in it a large Market place; there is a River, the water Looks black, I ffancy it runns off from the Iron and sulpher mines which Changes the Coull^r;—We pass it over on a large bridge, tho’ in some places they may ford it, its all on a Rock and the Sides of the hill by y^e River is all rock and the Little houses are all built in the Rocks, there is a little Chapple cut out of the Rock and arch’d and Carved w^{th} ffigures of Saints, I suppose its Called S^r Robert Chapple he was Esteemed a very devout man, his Effigee is Carv’d at the Entrance, there is an alter y^t was deck’d w^{th} flowers and the Ground w^{th} Rushes for y^e devout that did frequent it. Severall Papists there about and many that Came to y^e Spaw and S^t Mongers well did say their prayers there. There was a Manuscript w^{th} a long story of this S^r Robert. There is also the ruines of an abbey where there has been many bones taken up and some preserv’d as Reliques—there was a papist Lady Lodg’d where we did and our Land Lady at y^e Inn where we were treated Civily she told us she went with this Lady among these ruines where the Lady would say her prayers, and one day some had been digging and brought up y^e bone of a mans arme and hand and y^e Ligature of y^e Elbow held y^e bones together w^{ch} by Strikeing Came asunder, and in y^e hollow part of y^e joynt was a jelly like blood that was moist, this Lady dipp’d y^e End of her handkerchief in it and so Cut it off and put it up as a Relique. There are y^e ruinated walls of the Castle remaines but of no use, but some part is made a prison and some vaults made Cellars. I dranke very Strong Clear ale in one of those Cellars.

We were in a very pretty Garden of a Gentlemans of our LandLady Mason’s acquaintance where was all manner of Curiosityes of fflowers and Greens—Great variety—there is also a Cherry Garden with Green walkes for y^e Company to walk in and a Great Seate in a high tree that gives a pleasant prospect.