Chapter XI: Part 11

The assizes was in the town w^{ch} filled it Like a faire, and Little stands for selling things was in all the streetes. There I saw y^e town hall. The streetes are well pitch’d, and a Large market place and shambles. The Bishops pallace is in a park moated round, nothing worth notice in it. S^t Andrews well w^{ch} gives name to the town Bubbles up so quick a spring and becomes the head of two Little rivers w^{ch} Encreases a Little way off into good rivers. Thence I went to Glasenbury 4 miles, a pretty Levell way till just you Come to the town, then I ascended a stony hill and went just by the tower w^{ch} is on a green Round riseing ground. There is only a Little tower remaines Like a Beacon, it had Bells formerly in it and some superstition observ’d there, but now its broken down on one side. From this I descended a very steep stony way into the town; Glasenbury tho’ in ancient tymes was a Renowned place where was founded the first monastery, its now a Ragged poor place and the abbey has only the Kitchen remaining in it w^{ch} is a distinct Building, round like a pigeon house all stone. The walls of y^e abbey here and there appeares and some Little places and y^e Cellar or vault w^{ch} if they Cast a stone into the place it gives a great Echo, and y^e Country people says its y^e Devil set there on a tun of money w^{ch} makes y^e noise Least they should take it away from him. There is the holly thorn growing on a Chimney, this the superstitious Covet much and have gott some of it for their gardens and soe have almost quite spoiled it, w^{ch} did grow quite round a Chimney tunnell in the stone. Here is a very pretty Church a good tower well Carv’d all stone 160 stepps up. Walking in the tower I Could have a prospect of the whole place w^{ch} appeared very Ragged and decayed. The Church is neate, there is the Effigee of the abbot on a tombstone Carved all about w^{th} Eschuteons of a Camell, and round it an jnscription or motto in old Latin and an old Caracter. It was a phancy of his Stewards who was a very faithfull Dilligent servant, and as he made use of those Creatures in his masters service y^t were strong and Industrious so y^e motto described his services under that resemblance. The Effigee was very Curious and w^{th} rings on the fingers, but in Monmouths tyme the soldiers defaced it much.

From thence to Taunton 16 miles through many small places and scattering houses, through Lanes full of stones and by the Great raines just before full of wet and Dirt. I passed over a Large Common or bottom of Deep black Land which is bad for the Rider but good for the abider as the proverb is; this was 2 or 3 mile long and pass’d and repass’d a river as it twin’d about at Least ten tymes over stone bridges. This river Comes from Bridge water 7 mile, the tyde Comes up beyond Bridge water, Even within 3 mile of Taunton its flowed by the tyde w^{ch} brings up the Barges w^{th} Coale to this place, after having pass’d a Large Common w^{ch} on Either hand Leads a great waye, good rich Land w^{th} ditches and willow trees all for feeding Cattle, and here at this Little place where the boates unlade the Coale y^e packhorses Comes and takes it in sacks and so Carryes it to y^e places all about. This is y^e sea Coale brought from Bristole, the horses Carry 2 Bushell at a tyme w^{ch} at the place Cost 18^d and when its brought to Taunton Cost 2 shillings. The roads were full of these Carryers going and returning.

Taunton is a Large town haveing houses of all sorts of buildings both brick and stone, but mostly timber and plaister, its a very neate place and Looks substantial as a place of good trade. You meete all sorts of Country women wrapp’d up in the mantles Called West Country rockets, a Large mantle doubled together of a sort of serge, some are Linsywolsey and a deep fringe or ffag at the Lower End, these hang down some to their feete some only just below y^e wast, in the summer they are all in white garments of this sort, in the winter they are in Red ones. I Call them garments because they never go out w^{th} out them and this is the universal ffashion in Sommerset and Devonshire and Cornwall. Here is a good Market Cross well Carv’d and a Large Market house on Pillars for the Corn. I was in the Largest Church, it was mending, it was pretty Large, the alter stood table wayes in the middle of the Chancell, there was one good stone Statue stood in the wall, the Effigee was very tall in a Ruff and Long Black dress Like some Religious w^{th} his Gloves and book in his hand. There were severall Little monuments with Inscriptions Round them, they have Encompass’d the Church yard with a new Brick wall and handsom Iron gates, there is a Large space Called the Castle yard and some remaines of the Castle walls and Buildings w^{ch} is fitted up for a good dwelling house. From thence I went to Wellington, they Call it but 5 mile but its a Long 7 tho’ the way was pretty good; this is a Little Market town. Thence to Culimton 13 mile more, but Indeed these were very long Miles, y^e hostler at Tanton did say tho’ they were reckon’d but 16 miles it really was a good 20 miles and I am much of that mind. I mostly pass’d through Lanes, I entred Into Devonshire 5 mile off from Wellington, just on a high ridge of hills w^{ch} discovers a vast prospect on Each side full of Inclosures and Lesser hills w^{ch} is the Description of most part of the West. You Could see Large tracts of grounds full of Enclosures good Grass and Corn beset with quicksetts and hedge rows, and these Lesser hills w^{ch} are scarce perceivable on y^e Ridge of the uppermost, yet the Least of them have a steep ascent and descent to pass them. Culimton is a good Little market town, and market Cross and another set on stone pillars, such a one was at Wellington but on Brick work pillars. Here was a Large meeteing of neer 4 or 500 people, they have a very good minister but a young man, I was glad to see soe many tho’ they were but of the meaner sort, for Indeed its the poor Receive the Gospell and there are in most of the market towns in the West very good meeteings. This Little place was one Continued Long streete but few houses y^t struck out of the streete. From thence 10 mile to Exetter, up hills and down as before, till one attaines those uppermost Ridges of all w^{ch} discovers the whole valley, then you sometymes goe a mile or two on a Down till the Brow of the hill begins in a Descent on the other side. This Citty appears to view 2 mile distant from one of those heights, and also the River Ex w^{ch} runs to Topshum where y^e shipps Comes up to the Barre; this is 7 mile by water from w^{ch} they are attempting to make navigeable to the town, which will be of Mighty advantage to have shipps Come up Close to the town to take in their Serges w^{ch} now they are forced to send to Topshum on horses by Land, w^{ch} is about 4 mile by Land. They had just agreed w^{th} a man that was to accomplish this work for w^{ch} they were to give 5 or 6000^£, who had made a beginning on it.

Exeter is a town very well built, the streets are well pitch’d, spacious noble streetes, and a vast trade is Carryed on, as Norwitch is for Coapes Callamanco and damaske, soe this is for serges. There is an Increadible quantety of them made and sold in the town. There market day is Fryday which supplys with all things Like a faire almost; the markets for meate, fowle, ffish, garden things and the Dairy produce takes up 3 whole streetes besides the Large Market house set on stone pillars, w^{ch} runs a great Length on w^{ch} they Lay their packs of serges. Just by it is another walke w^{th} in pillars w^{ch} is for the yarne, the whole town and Country is Employ’d for at Least 20 mile round in spinning, weaveing, dressing and scouring, fulling and Drying of the serges. It turns the most money in a weeke of any thing in England. One weeke with another there is 10000 pound paid in ready money, Sometymes 15000 pound. The weavers brings in their serges and must have their money w^{ch} they Employ to provide them yarne to goe to work againe. There is alsoe a square Court with Penthouses round where the Malters are w^{th} Mault and oat meal, but the serge is the Chief manufacture. There is a prodigious quantety of their serges they never bring into the market but are in hired roomes w^{ch} are noted for it, for it would be impossible to have it altogether. The Carryers I met going w^{th} it, as thick, all Entring into town w^{th} their Loaded horses, they bring them all just from the Loome and soe they are put into the ffulling-mills, but first they will Clean and Scour their roomes with them, w^{ch} by the way gives noe pleasing perfume to a roome, the oyle and grease, and I should think it would Rather foull a roome than Cleanse it because of the oyles, but I perceive its otherwise Esteemed by them w^{ch} will send to their acquaintances y^t are tuckers the dayes the serges Comes in for a Rowle to Clean their house—this I was an Eye witness of. Then they Lay them in soack in vrine, then they soape them and soe put them into the ffulling-mills and soe worke them in the mills drye till they are thick enough then they turne water into them and so scower them. Y^e mill does draw out and gather in y^e serges, its a pretty divertion to see it, a sort of huge notch’d timbers Like great teethe;—one would thinke it should Injure the serges but it does not. Y^e mills draws in w^{th} such a great violence that if one stands neere it and it Catch a bitt of your Garments it would be ready to draw in y^e person even in a trice. When they are thus scour’d they drye them in racks strained out w^{ch} are as thick set one by another as will permitt y^e dresses to pass between, and huge Large fields occupy’d this way almost all round the town w^{ch} is to the river side; then when drye they pick out all knots then fold them w^{th} a paper between Every fold and so sett them on an jron plaite and screw down y^e press on them w^{ch} has another jron plaite on the top under w^{ch} is a furnace of fire of Coales, this is the hott press; then they fold them Exceeding Exact and then press them in a Cold press, some they dye but the most are sent up for London white.

I saw the severall ffatts they were a Dying in of black, yellow, blew and Green w^{ch} two Last Coullours are dipp’d in the same fatt, that w^{ch} makes it differ is what they were dipp’d in before w^{ch} makes them Either green or blew; they hang the Serges on a great beame or Great pole on the top of y^e fatt and so keep turning it from one to another—as one turns it off into the ffatt y^e other Rowles it out of it, soe they do it backwards and forwards till its tinged deep Enough of the Coullour. Their ffurnace that keepes their dye panns boyling is all under that roome made of Coale ffires. There was in a roome by itself a ffatt for the Scarlet that being a very Changeable dye noe waste must be allow’d in that, Indeed I think they make as fine a Coullour as their bowdies are in London.

These Rolers I spake of two men does Continually role on and off y^e pieces of serge till Dipp’d Enough, the length of these pieces are or should hold out 26 yards. This Citty does Exceedingly resemble London for besides these buildings I mention’d for y^e severall Markets, there is an Exchange full of shopps Like our Exchanges are, only its but one walke along as was the Exchange at Salisbury house in the Strand; there is also a very Large space Railed in just by the Cathedrall with walks round it w^{ch} is Called the Exchange for Merchants, that Constantly meete twice a day just as they do in London. There are 17 Churches in the Citty and 4 in the subburbs, there is some remaines of the Castle walls, they make use of the roomes w^{ch} are inside for y^e assizes, there is the two Barrs besides being Large rooms w^{th} seates and places Convenient and jury roome, here is a Large walke at y^e Entrance between Rowes of Pillars, there is besides this just at y^e market place a Guild hall the Entrance of w^{ch} is a Large place set on stone Pillars, beyond w^{ch} are y^e roomes for the session or any town affaires to be adjusted. Behind this building there is a vast Cistern w^{ch} holds upwards of 600 hodsheads of water which supplyes by pipes the whole Citty; this Cistern is replenished from the river w^{ch} is on purpose turned into a Little Channell by it self to turn the mill, and ffills the Engine that Casts y^e water into the truncks w^{ch} Conveys it to this Cistern. The water Engine is Like those at Islington and at Darby as I have seen, and is what now they make use of in Diverse places Either to supply them w^{th} water or to draine a marsh or overplus of water. The river X is a fine streame, they have made severall bayes or wires above the Bridge w^{ch} Casts y^e water into many Channells for the Conveniencys of turning all their mills, by w^{ch} meanes they have Composed a Little jsland, for at the End it againe returns into its own united Channell. Those wires makes great falls into y^e water, it Comes w^{th} great violence; here they Catch the Salmon as they Leap w^{th} speares, the first of these Bayes is a very great one, there is one below the bridge w^{ch} must be taken away when the navigation is Compleate for they will need all their water together to fill it to a Depth to Carry the shipps for just by the Bridge is the Key design’d, or y^t w^{ch} now is already they will Enlarge to that place. Just by this key is the Custome house, an open space below w^{th} rows of pillars w^{ch} they Lay in goods just as its unladen out of the shipps in Case of wet. Just by are Severall Little roomes for Land waiters &c, then you ascend up a handsome pair of staires into a Large roome full of Desks and Little partitions for the writers and accountants, it was full of books and files of paper. By it are two other Roomes w^{ch} are used in the same way when there is a great deale of Bussiness. There are severall good Conduites to Supply y^e Citty w^{th} water besides that Cistern, there is alsoe a very fine market Cross.

The Cathedrall at Exetter is preserv’d in its outside adornments beyond most I have seen, there remaining more of y^e fine Carv’d worke in stone, the ffigures and nitches full and in proportion, tho’ Indeed I Cannot say it has that great Curiosity of work and variety as the great Church at Wells. Its a Lofty building in y^e Inside, the Largest pair of organs[1] I have Ever seen w^{th} fine Carving of wood w^{ch} runs up a Great height, and made a magnificent appearance. The Quire is very neate, but y^e Bishops seate or throne was Exceeding and very high and y^e Carving very fine and took up a Great Compass full of all variety of ffigures, something Like the worke over y^e arch Bishops throne in S^t Pauls, London, but this was Larger if not so Curious. There was severall good monuments and Effigies of Bishops; there was one of a judge and his Lady that was very Curious, their Garments Embroyder’d all marble and Gilt and painted. There was a very Large good Library in w^{ch} was a press that had an anatomy of a woman. Y^e tower is 167 steps up on which I had a view of y^e whole town w^{ch} is Generally well built. I saw y^e Bishops pallace and Garden, there is a long walke as well as broad, Enclosed w^{th} rows of Lofty trees which made it shady and very pleasant, w^{ch} went along by the Ditch and banck on w^{ch} the town wall stands. There are 5 gates to y^e town, there is alsoe another Long walke within shady trees on y^e other side of the town, w^{ch} Leads to the Grounds where the drying frames are set up for the serges.

Footnote 1:

The great pipe 15 inches diameter is two more y^n the celebrated one
at Coln.

Ffrom thence I pass’d the Bridge aCross the River Ex to Chedly w^{ch} was 9 mile, mostly Lanes and a Continual going up hill and down, some of them pretty steep hills and all these Lesser hills as I have observ’d rises higher and higher till it advances you upon the high Ridge w^{ch} discovers to view the Great valleys below full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures w^{th} quicksett hedges and trees and Rich Land, but the Roads are not to be seen being all along in Lanes Cover’d over with y^e shelter of the hedges and trees. Then when I was on y^e top hill I went 3 or 4 miles on an open down w^{ch} brought me to the Edge of another such a Ridge, w^{ch} was by some steps to be descended as it was gained by y^e Lesser hills one below another till I Came to y^e bottom, and then I had about 2 or 3 mile along on a plaine or Common w^{ch} for the most part are a Little moorish by reason of their receiving the water that draines from the severall Great hills on Either side, and so then I am to rise up another such a Range of hills, and as neer as I Could Compute in my Rideing it was 6 or 7 miles between one high Ridge of hills to that over against it, whereas were there a Bridge over from one top to the other it Could not be 2 mile distant; but this does give them y^e advantage of severall acres of Land by reason of the many hills w^{ch} if drawn out on plaines as in some other parts would appear much vaster tracts of Land. On these hills as I said one Can discern Little besides inclosures hedges and trees, rarely Can see houses unless you are just descending to them, they allwayes are placed in holes as it were and you have a precipice to go down to Come at them. Y^e Lanes are full of stones and dirt for y^e most part because they are so Close the sun and wind Cannot Come at them, soe that in many places you travell on Causeys w^{ch} are uneven also for want of a Continued repaire.

From Chedly to Ashburton is 11 mile more, in all 20 mile from Exeter, the Roads being much the same as before. This Ashburton is a poor Little town—bad was the best Inn. Its a market town and here are a Great many descenters and those of the most Considerable persons in the town; there was a presbiterian, an anabaptist, and quakers meeteing. Thence I went for Plymouth 24 long miles, and here the Roades Contract and y^e Lanes are exceeding narrow and so Cover’d up you Can see Little about; an army Might be marching undiscover’d by any body, for when you are on those heights that shews a vast Country about you Cannot see one Road. The wayes now become so difficult y^t one Could scarcely pass by Each other, Even y^e single horses, and so Dirty in many places, and just a track for one horses feete, and the Banks on Either side so neer, and were they not well secured and mended w^{th} stones stuck Close Like a Drye wall Everywhere when they discover the Bancks to Breake and molder down, which Else would be in Danger of swallowing up the way quite; for on these bancks (w^{ch} are some of them naturall Rocks and quarrys, others mended w^{th} such stone or slate stuck Edgewayes to secure them) for the quicksetts and trees that grow on these Bancks Loosen the mold and so makes it molder downe sometymes. I pass’d through severall Little places and over some stone Bridges. Y^e waters are pretty broad soe these are 4 or 5 arches most Bridges, all stone. The running of y^e waters is w^{th} a huge Rushing by reason of y^e stones w^{ch} Lye in the water, some of them Great rocks w^{ch} gives some Interruption to y^e Current w^{ch} finding another way Either by its sides or mounting over part of it Causes y^e frothing of y^e water and y^e noise—the rivers being full of stones bigger or Less. About 4 or 5 mile from ashburton I Came to a Little place Called Dean and at y^e End of it ascended a very steep hill, all rock almost; and so it was Like so many steps up, this is Called Dean Clapperhill, it was an untoward place but not soe fformidable to me as the people of y^e place where I Lay described it, haveing gone much worse hills in the North. All along on the road where the Lanes are a Little broader you ride by rowes of trees on Each side, set and kept Exactly Even and Cut, y^e tops being for shade and beauty and they in exact forme as if a Grove to some house. At first I thought it was neer some houses till the frequency and Length proved the Contrary, for there are very few if any houses neare the Road, unless the Little villages you passe through. This Country being almost full of stone the streetes and roades too have a naturall sort of paveing or Pitching tho’ uneven. All their Carriages are here on y^e Backs of horses, w^{th} sort of hookes Like yoakes stands upon Each side of a good height, w^{ch} are the Receptacles of their goods Either wood, ffurse or Lime or Coale or Corn or hay or straw or what Else they Convey from place to place, and I Cannot see how two such horses Can pass Each other or Indeed in some places how any horse Can pass by Each other, and yet these are the roads y^t are all here abouts. Some Little Corners may jutt out that one may a Little get out of y^e way of Each other, but this but seldom. Two mile from Plymouth we Come to y^e river Plym just by a Little town all built of stone and y^e tyleing is all flatt w^{ch} with y^e Lime its Cemented, w^{ch} makes it Look white Like snow, and in the sun shineing on the slatt it Glisters.

Here I Came in sight on y^e Right hand of a very Large house built all with this sort of stone w^{ch} is a sort of marble. Even all quaryes are, and some ffine marble. This house Look’d very finely in a thicket of trees Like a Grove and was on the side of a hill and Led just down to the head of y^e river Plym w^{ch} is fill’d with y^e tyde from the sea, and here I Cross’d it on a stone bridge. Soe I Rode 2 miles mostly by the river w^{ch} encreases and is a fine broad streame and at y^e town w^{ch} is its mouth it falls into the sea. The sea here runs into severall Creekes, one place it runs up to y^e Dock and Milbrook, another arm of y^e sea goes up to Saltash and Port Eliot.

Plymouth is 2 Parishes Called y^e old town and y^e new, the houses all built of this marble and y^e Slatt at the top Lookes Like Lead and glisters in the sun. There are noe great houses in the town, the streetes are good and Clean, there is a great many tho’ some are but narrow, they are mostly inhabitted w^{th} seamen and those w^{ch} have affaires on y^e sea, for here up to the town there is a Depth of water for shipps of y^e first Rate to Ride. Its Great sea and Dangerous by reason of y^e severall poynts of Land between w^{ch} the sea runs up a Great way, and there are severall Little jslands alsoe all w^{ch} beares the severall tydes hard one against y^e other. There are two keyes, the one is a broad space w^{ch} Leads you up into the broad streete and is used in manner of an exchange for the merchants meeteing, for in this streete alsoe is a fine stone Crosse and alsoe a long market house set on stone Pillars. There are severall good Cunduits to Convey the water to the town w^{ch} Conveyance y^e famous S^r Ffrancis Drake (w^{ch} did encompass y^e world in Queen Elizabeths dayes and Landed safe at Plymouth) he gave this to y^e town. There are two Churches in the town but nothing fine. I was in y^e best and saw only King Charles the firsts Picture at Length at prayer just as its Cut on the frontispiece of the jnenicum. This picture was Drawn and given the Church when he was in his troubles, for some piece of service shewn him. The alter stands in the Chancell or Railed place, but it stands table wise the Length and not up against the wall. The ffont was of marble and Indeed soe is all buildings here for their stone is all a sort of Marble, some Coarser some finer. There are 4 Large meetings for the descenters in the town takeing in the Quakers and anabaptists.

The mouth of y^e river just at y^e town is a very good Harbour for Shipps, the Dockyards are about 2 mile from the town—by boate you goe to it y^e nearest way—its one of y^e best in England. A Great many good shipps built there, and the Great Depth of water w^{ch} Comes up to it tho’ it runs for 2 mile between y^e Land, w^{ch} also shelters y^e shipps. There is a great deale of Buildings on the Dock, a very good house for the Masters and severall Lesser ones, and house for their Cordage and makeing Ropes, and all sorts of things required in building or Refitting ships, it Lookes Like a Little town. The Buildings are so many and all of marble w^{th} ffine slate on y^e Rooffs and at a Little Distance it makes all the houses shew as if they were Cover’d w^{th} snow and Glisters in y^e sunn w^{ch} adds to their beauty. Y^e ffine and only thing in Plymouth town is the Cittadell or Castle w^{ch} stands very high above the town, the walls and battlements round it w^{th} all their Works and Plattforms are in very good repaire and Lookes nobly, all marble full of towers w^{th} stone Balls on the top and Gilt on the top; the Entrance being by an ascent up a hill Looks very noble over 2 drawbridges and Gates, w^{ch} are Marble as is the whole, Well Carv’d, the Gate w^{th} armory and statues all Gilt and on the top 7 Gold balls. Ye buildings within are very neate, a Large appartment for the Governour, w^{th} others that are Less for y^e severall officers. There is a Long building alsoe w^{ch} is y^e arsnell for y^e arms and amunition, and just by it a round building well secured w^{ch} was for the powder round the works in the Plattform for the Gunns w^{ch} are well mounted and very well kept. Walking round I had the view of all the town and alsoe part off y^e Main Ocean in w^{ch} are some jslands. There is S^t Nicholas jsland w^{th} a ffort in it, there it was Harry Martin one of y^e Kings judges was banished Dureing Life. There you Can just Discover a Light house w^{ch} is building on a meer Rock in the middle of y^e sea, this is 7 Leagues off, it will be of Great advantage for y^e Guide of y^e shipps y^t pass that way. From this you have a Good refflection on y^e Great Care and provision y^e wise God makes for all persons and things in his Creation, that there should be in some places where there is any Difficulty rocks Even in the midst of y^e deep w^{ch} Can be made use of for a Constant Guide and mark for the passengers on their voyages, but the Earth is full of y^e goodness of y^e Lord and soe is this Great sea wherein are jnumerable beings Created and preserv’d by y^e same almighty hand Whose is the Earth and all things there in, he is Lord of all. From the plattform I Could see y^e Dock and also just ag^{st} it I saw mount EdgeComb a seate of S^r Richard EdgComes, it stands on the side of a hill all bedeck’d w^{th} woods w^{ch} are Divided into several Rowes of trees in walks, the house being all of this white marble. Its built round a Court so the four sides are alike, at y^e Corners of it are towers w^{ch} w^{th} y^e Lanthorne or Cupilow in the middle Lookes well, the house is not very Lofty nor the windows high but it Looked Like a very uniforme neate building and pretty Large. There is a Long Walke from one part of y^e front down to y^e waterside, w^{ch} is on a descent guarded w^{th} shady Rowes of trees, there is a fine terrass walled in, at y^e water side is open gates in y^e middle and a sumer house at Each End, from whence a wall is Drawn Round the house and Gardens and a Large parck, the wall of which I Rode by a good while; so y^t altogether and its scituation makes it Esteemed by me the finest seate I have seen and might be more Rightly named mount pleasant. From Plymouth I went 1 mile to Cribly Fferry w^{ch} is a very hazardous passage by reason of 3 tydes meeting. Had I known y^e Danger before, I should not have been very willing to have gone it, not but this is y^e Constant way all people goe, and saved severall miles rideings, I was at Least an hour going over, it was about a mile but Indeed in some places notwithstanding there was 5 men Row’d and I sett my own men to Row alsoe I do believe we made not a step of way for almost a quarter of an hour, but blessed be God I Came safely over; but those fferry boates are soe wet and then the sea and wind is allwayes Cold to be upon, that I never faile to Catch Cold in a fferry boate as I did this day haveing 2 more fferrys to Cross tho’ none soe bad or halfe soe Long as this. Thence to Milbrooke 2 mile and went all along by the water and had the full view of ye Dock yards. Here I entred into Cornwall and soe passed over many very steep stony hills, tho’ here I had some 2 or 3 miles of Exceeding good way on the downs, and then I Came to y^e steep precipices—Great Rocky hills—ever and anon I Came down to the sea and Rode by its side on the sand, then mounted up againe on y^e hills w^{ch} Carryed me along Mostly in sight of y^e Southsea. Sometymes I was in Lanes full of Rowes of trees and then I Came down a very steep stony hill to Lonn 13 mile, and here I Crossed a Little arme of y^e sea on a Bridge of 14 arches. This is a pretty bigg seaport, a Great many Little houses all of stone, and steep hill much worse and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapper hill, and soe I continued up and down hill. Here Indeed I met w^{th} more jnclosed Ground and soe had more Lanes and a Deeper Clay Road w^{ch} by the raine y^e night before had made it very Dirty and full of water in many places, in the Road there are many holes and sloughs where Ever there is Clay Ground, and when by raines they are filled with water its difficult to shun Danger; here my horse was quite down in one of these holes full of water but by y^e good hand of God’s providence w^{ch} has allwayes been w^{th} me Even a present help in tyme of need, for giving him a good strap he fflounc’d up againe tho’ he had gotten quite down his head and all, yet did retrieve his ffeete and gott Cleer off y^e place w^{th} me on his Back. Soe I Came to Hoile 8 mile more, they are very Long miles y^e ffarther West but you have y^e pleasure of Rideing as if in a Grove in most places, y^e Regular Rowes of trees on Each side y^e Roade as if it were an Entrance into some gentlemans Ground to his house. I fferryed over againe Cross an arme of y^e sea, here it was not broad but Exceeding deep. This is y^e Southsea w^{ch} runs into many Little Creekes for severall miles into y^e Land w^{ch} is all y^e rivers they have. I observed this to be exceeding salt and as green as ever I saw y^e sea when I have been a League or two out from y^e Land, w^{ch} shews it must be very deep and Great tides. This Hoile is a narrow stony town, y^e streetes very Close, and as I descended a Great steep into y^e town, soe I ascended one up a stony Long hill farre worse and full of shelves and Rocks and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapperhill, w^{ch} I Name because when I was there they would have frighted me with its terribleness as y^e most inaccessible place as Ever was and none Like it, and my opinion is y^t it was but one or two steps, to other places forty steps and them w^{th} more hazard than this of Dean Clapper. Well, to pass on, I went over some Little heath Ground but mostly Lanes, and those stony and Dirty, 3 mile and halfe to Parr; here I fferry’d over againe, not but when the tyde is out you may ford it.

Thence I went over the heath to S^t Austins w^{ch} is a Little market town where I Lay, but their houses are like Barnes up to y^e top of y^e house. Here was a pretty good dineing room and Chamber within it and very neate Country women. My Landlady brought me one of y^e west Country tarts this was y^e first I met w^{th} though. I had asked for them in many places in Sommerset and Devonshire; its an apple pye w^{th} a Custard all on the top, its y^e most acceptable entertainment y^t Could be made me. They scald their Creame and milk in most parts of those Countrys and so its a sort of Clouted Creame as we Call it, w^{th} a Little sugar and soe put on y^e top of y^e apple Pye. I was much pleased w^{th} my supper tho’ not with the Custome of the Country w^{ch} is a universall smoaking, both men women and children have all their pipes of tobacco in their mouths and soe sit round the fire smoaking w^{ch} was not delightfull to me when I went down to talke w^{th} my Landlady for jnformation of any matter and Customs amongst them. I must say they are as Comely sort of women as I have seen any where tho’ in ordinary dress—good black Eyes and Crafty enough and very neate. Halfe a mile from hence they blow their tin w^{ch} went to see. They take y^e ore and pound it in a stamping mill w^{ch} resembles the paper mills, and when its fine as y^e finest sand—some of w^{ch} I saw and took—this they fling into a ffurnace and w^{th} it Coale to make the fire. So it burns together and makes a violent heate and fierce flame, the mettle by y^e fire being separated from y^e Coale and its own Drosse, being heavy falls down to a trench made to receive it at y^e furnace hole below. This Liquid mettle I saw them shovel up w^{th} an jron shovel and soe pour it into molds in w^{ch} it Cooles and soe they take it thence in sort of wedges or piggs I think they Call them, its a fine mettle in its first melting—Looks Like silver—I had a piece poured out and made Cold for to take w^{th} me. Y^e oare as its just dug Lookes Like y^e thunderstones, a greenish hue full of pendust this seemes to Containe its full description, y^e shineing part is white. I went a mile farther on y^e hills and soe Came where they were digging in the tinn mines, there was at Least 20 mines all in sight w^{ch} employs a Great many people at work almost night and day, but Constantly all and Every day jncluding the Lords day w^{ch} they are forced to prevent their mines being overflowed w^{th} water. More than 1000 men are taken up about them, few mines but had then almost 20 men and boys attending it either down in y^e mines digging and Carrying y^e oare to the Little Bucket w^{ch} Conveys it up, or Else others are Draineing the water and Looking to y^e Engines y^t are draineing it, and those above are attending y^e drawing up the oare in a sort of windlass as is to a Well. Two men keeps turning bringing up one and Letting down another, they are much Like the Leather Buckets they use in London to put out fire, w^{ch} hang up in Churches and Great mens halls. They have a Great Labour and Great expence to draine the mines of the water w^{th} mills that horses turn, and now they have y^e mills or water Engines that are turned by the water w^{ch} is Convey’d on frames of timber and truncks to hold y^e water, w^{ch} falls down on y^e wheeles as an over shott mill, and these are y^e sort that turns y^e water into y^e severall towns I have seen about London, Darby and Exeter and many places more. They do five tymes more good than the mills they use to turn w^{th} horses, but then they are much more Chargeable. Those mines do require a great deale of timber to support them and to make all those engines and mills, w^{ch} makes fewell very scarce here; they burn mostly turffs w^{ch} is an unpleasant smell, it makes one smell as if smoaked Like Bacon. This ore as said is made fine powder in a Stamping Mill w^{ch} is Like y^e paper mills, only these are pounded drye and noe water Let into them as is to y^e Raggs, to work them into a paste. Ye mills are all turned w^{th} a Little Streame or Channell of water you may step over, jndeed they have noe other mills but such in all the Country; I saw not a windmill all over Cornwall or Devonshire tho’ they have wind and hills Enough, and it may be its too Bleake for them. In the tinn mines there is stone Dug out and a sort of spar something Like what I have seen in the Lead mines at Darbyshire but it seemed more sollid and hard, it shines and Lookes Like mother of pearle. They alsoe digg out stones as Cleer as Christal w^{ch} is Called Cornish Diamonds. I saw one as bigg as my two ffists, very Cleer and Like some pieces of Chrystal my father brought from y^e Alps In Italy w^{ch} I have by me. I got one of those pieces of their Cornish Diamonds as Long as halfe my finger w^{ch} had three or four flatt sides w^{th} Edges, the top was sharpe and so hard as it would Cut a Letter on glass. Thence I went to —— 6 miles good way, and passed by 100 mines some on which they were at work, others that were lost by y^e waters overwhelming them. I crossed y^e water on a Long stone bridge and so through dirty stony Lanes 3 mile and then I Came into a broad Coach Rode which I have not seen since I Left Exeter, so I went 3 mile more to M^r Boscawens—Trygothy—a Relation of mine. His house stands on a high hill in the middle of a parke with severall Rows of trees with woods beyond it. Y^e house is built all of white stone like the Rough Coarse Marble and Cover’d w^{th} slate. They use much Lime in their Cement w^{ch} makes both walls and Cover Look very white. There is a Court walled round w^{th} open Iron gates and barrs. The Entrance is up a few stone steps into a Large high hall and so to a passage that Leads foreright up a good stair Case. On y^e Right side is a Large Common parlour for Constant Eating in, from whence goes a Little roome for smoaking y^t has a back way into the kitchin, and on the Left hand is a Great parlour and drawing roome—wanscoated all very well but plaine. Y^e Great Parlour is Cedar, out of y^t is the Drawing-roome which is hung with pictures of the family, that goes into y^e garden w^{ch} has Gravell walks round and across, but y^e squares are full of goosebery and shrub-trees and Looks more Like a Kitchen garden as Lady Mary Boscawen told me, out of w^{ch} is another Garden and orchard which is something Like a Grove, Green walks w^{th} rows of fruit trees. Its Capable of being a fine place w^{th} some Charge, the roomes above are new modell’d, 3 roomes wanscoated and hung as y^e new way is, and y^e beds made up well, one red damaske, another Green, another wrought some of y^e Ladyes own work and well made up, w^{ch} is her own Roome w^{th} a dressing roome by it. There is a dressing roome and a roome for a servant just by y^e best Chamber. There are two other good roomes unalter’d w^{th} old hangings to y^e bottom on wrought work of y^e first Ladyes. Lady Margets work, y^t was my Cos’n German, within that roome was a servants roome and back staires, there was just such another apartment on y^e other side.

Between all from the staires a broad passage Leads to a Balcony over the Entrance w^{ch} Look’d very pleasantly over the parke but in the Cupulo on y^e Leads I Could see a vast way, at Least 20 mile round; for this house stands very high to y^e Land side Eastward, and the south was the Great Ocean w^{ch} runns into Falmouth thats y^e best harbour for shipps in that road. 6 mile from this place westward was to Truro and the north to the hills full of Copper mines. Here I was very Civily Entertained: from thence I returned back Intending not to goe to y^e Lands End w^{ch} was 30 miles farther for feare of y^e raines that fell in the night w^{ch} made me doubt what travelling I should have; soe to S^t Culumb I went, a pretty Long 12 mile. Here I met with many Rowes of Elm trees w^{ch} I have not found in any Country Except Wiltshire; these were mostly soe, tho’ there were alsoe ashes and oakes. Y^e hedges were Hazelthorne and Holly but to see soe many good rowes of trees on y^e road is surprising and Looks Like the Entrance to some Gentlemans house, and I cannot tell but some of them were soe tho’ a mile off from y^e house.

The next day finding it faire weather on y^e Change of y^e moone, I alter’d my Resolution and soe went for y^e Lands End by Redruth 18 miles, mostly over heath and Downs w^{ch} was very bleake and full of mines.

Here I Came by the Copper mines w^{ch} have the same order in the digging and draining, tho’ here it seemes Dryer and I believe not quite soe annoy’d w^{th} water. The ore is something as the tinn only this Looks blackish, or rather a purple Colour, and y^e glistering part is yellow as y^e other was white. They do not melt it here but ship it off to Bristol by y^e North Sea w^{ch} I Rode in sight of, and is not above 2 or 3 Mile from hence, which supplyes them with Coales for their fewell at Easyer rates than the other side Plymouth and the South Sea, because since y^e warre they Could not Double y^e poynt at y^e Lands End, being so neer Ffrance y^e pirats or Privateers met them. Indeed at S^t Jves they do melt a Little but nothing that is Considerable—that is 10 mile from Redruth w^{ch} is a Little market town. Here they Carry all their things on horses backs soe that of a market day w^{ch} was Fryday you see a great number of horses Little of size w^{ch} they Call Cornish Canelys. They are well made and strong and will trip along as Light on the stony road without injury to themselves, where as my horses went so heavy that they wore their shoes immediately thinn and off, but here I met with a very good smith that shooed y^e horses as well as they do in London, and that is not Common in the Country, but here I found it soe, and at a place in Westmoreland by y^e ffells a smith made good shoes and set them on very well. From Redruth I went to Pensands 15 mile and passed by y^e ruines of Great ffortification or Castle on a high hill about 3 mile from Redruth and passed to Hailes and soe went by y^e sea side a great way, it being spring tide it was a full sea. Just over against it there was a Church w^{ch} was almost sunck into y^e sands being a very sandy place. So I went up pretty high hills and over some heath or Common, on w^{ch} a Great storme of haile and raine met me and drove fiercely on me but y^e wind soone dry’d my Dust Coate. Here I Came by a very good Grove of trees w^{ch} I thought was by some Gentlemans house but found it some ffarmers.

The people here are very ill Guides and know but Little from home, only to some market town they frequent, but will be very solicitous to know where you goe and how farre and from whence you Came and where is y^e abode. Then I Came in sight of y^e hill in Cornwall Called y^e Mount, its on a Rock in the sea w^{ch} at y^e flowing tyde is an jsland, but at Low water one Can goe over y^e sands almost just to it, its but a Little market town w^{ch} is about 2 mile from Panzants, and you may walke or Ride to it all on y^e sands when y^e tyde’s out. Its a ffine Rock and very high—severall Little houses for fisher men—in y^e sides of it just by the water. At y^e top is a pretty good house where the Govenour Lives sometymes,—S^r —— Hook his name is—there is a tower on the top on w^{ch} is a fflag. There is a Chaire or throne on the top from whence they Can discover a Great way at sea and here they put up Lights to direct shipps.

Pensands is Rightly named being all sands about it—it Lies just as a shore to y^e maine South ocean w^{ch} Comes from y^e Lizard and being on y^e side of a hill w^{th} a high hill all round y^e side to y^e Landward it Lookes soe snugg and warme, and truely it needs shelter haveing the sea on y^e other side and Little or no ffewell—turff and ffurse and fferne. They have Little or noe wood and noe Coale w^{ch} differences it from Darbyshire, otherwise this and to y^e Land’s End is stone and barren as Darbyshire. I was surprised to ffind my supper boyling on a fire allwayes supply’d w^{th} a bush of ffurse and y^t to be y^e only ffewell to dress a joynt of meat and broth, and told them they Could not roast me anything, but they have a Little wood for such occasions but its scarce and dear w^{ch} is a strange thing y^t y^e shipps should not supply them. They told me it must all be brought round the Lands End and since y^e warre they Could not have it. This town is two parishes, one Church in y^e town and a Little Chappell and another Church belonging to y^e other parish w^{ch} is a mile distance. There is alsoe a good meeteing place.