Chapter I: Preface: To the Fourth Edition

Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the HISTORY OF LACE was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out.

The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty.

The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace.

The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

M. JOURDAIN.
ALICE DRYDEN.

_London, September, 1901._

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I.--NEEDLEWORK 1

II.--CUT-WORK 14

III.--LACE 26

IV.--ITALY.--VENICE--MILAN ("Milano la Grande")--FLORENCE--THE
ABRUZZI--ROMAGNA--NAPLES--GENOA ("Genova La Superba")--
CANTU--SICILY 45

V.--GREECE--CRETE--TURKEY--MALTA 82

VI.--SPAIN--PORTUGAL 90

VII.--FLANDERS--BRUSSELS (BRABANT)--MECHLIN--ANTWERP--FLANDERS
(WEST)--FLANDERS (EAST)--HAINAULT 109

VIII.--FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. 139

IX.--LOUIS XIV. 150

X.--LOUIS XIV.--_continued_ 161

XI.--LOUIS XV. 171

XII.--LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE 179

XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne),
NORMANDY 188

XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202

XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209

XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216

XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS
(Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230

XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC
AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242

XIX.--LIMOUSIN--LORRAINE--CHAMPAGNE--BURGUNDY--LYONNOIS--
ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250

XX.--HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY--
HOLLAND--SAXONY--GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH)--SWITZERLAND 258

XXI.--DENMARK--SWEDEN--RUSSIA 272

XXII.--ENGLAND TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 285

XXIII.--QUEEN ELIZABETH 299

XXIV.--JAMES I. TO THE RESTORATION.--JAMES I.--CHARLES I.--
THE COMMONWEALTH 315

XXV.--CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER.--CHARLES II.--
JAMES II.--WILLIAM III.--QUEEN ANNE 335

XXVI.--GEORGE I.--GEORGE II. 351

XXVII.--SMUGGLING 358

XXVIII.--GEORGE III. 363

XXIX.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF ENGLAND 371

XXX.--BEDFORDSHIRE--BUCKINGHAMSHIRE--NORTHAMPTONSHIRE--SUFFOLK 375

XXXI.--WILTSHIRE AND DORSETSHIRE 395

XXXII.--DEVONSHIRE--HONITON--TROLLY LACE--JAPAN 399

XXXIII.--SCOTLAND 418

XXXIV.--LACE MANUFACTURES OF SCOTLAND 428

XXXV.--IRELAND 435

XXXVI.--BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE--BOBBIN NET--FRANCE--
BELGIUM--MACHINERY LACE 447